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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historlques 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notet/Notas  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  .<vhich  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


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D 


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D 
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D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I   Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagie 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pelliculte 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
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Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsque  cela  ^tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6ti  filmAes. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  M  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


0   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


D 


Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pelliculies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


r~7  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~7l  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

rri  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I     I  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure. 
etc.,  ont  M  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


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r~^    Additional  comments:/ 

L^    Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


Pagination  at  followi  :   HI  -  ix,  [  1 !,( 1 )  •  30.  30a-30b,  31-59, 59a-59b,  60-336.  1 1  ]  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqui  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

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12X 


16X 


20X 


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28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  hee  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

BIbiiothAque  nationals  du  Quebec 


L'exemplaire  filmA  f ut  reproduit  grice  A  la 
gin^rositA  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationals  du  QuAbsc 


Ths  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  6tA  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  le  nettetA  de  I'exempialre  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  ere  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  filmfo  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  pege  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
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ds  i'angis  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
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MARmME    PROVINCES. 


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THE 


MARITIME  PROVINCES: 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS. 


A  GUIDE  TO 


THB  CHIBF  CITIES,  COASTS,  AND  ISLANDS  OF  THE  MABITIMB  PBOT- 

IMCBS  OF  CANADA,  AND  TO  THEIR  SCENERY  AMD  HISTORIC 

ATTRACTIONS  ;  WITH  THB  GULF  AND  RIVER  OF  ST. 

LAWRENCE  TO  QUEBEC  AND  MONTREAL; 

ALSO,  NEWFOUNDLAND  AND  TUB 

LABRADOB  COAST. 

With  Four  Mapt  and  Four  JPlana, 

THIRD    EDITION.    REVISED   AND    ENLARGED. 


BOSTON: 
JAMES    R.  OSGOOD   AND   COMPANY, 

1883. 


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COPTBIOKT  187B  tan  1888, 
^  Br  JAMES  S.  OSGOOD  ft  GO. 


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PREFACE. 


Tn  ebief  object  of  the  Handbook  to  the  ICaritime  Provinces 
is  to  snpplj  the  place  of  a  guide  in  a  land  where  professional 
guides  cannot  be  found,  and  to  assist  the  trayeller  in  gaining 
the  greatest  possible  amount  of  pleasure  and  information  while 
passii^  through  the  most  interesting  portions  of  Eastern  British 
Anierica.  The  St  Lawrence  Provinces  have  been  hitherto  casa- 
allj  treated  in  books  which  cover  wider  sections  of  country  (the 
best  of  which  have  long  been  out  of  print),  and  the  Atlantic 
Provinces  have  as  yet  received  but  little  attention  of  this  kind. 
The  present  guide-book  is  the  first  which  hae  been  devoted  to 
their  treatm^it  in  a  combined  form  and  according  to  the  most 
approved  principles  of  the  European  works  of  similar  purpose 
uid  character.  It  also  includes  descriptions  of  the  remote  and 
interesting  coasts  of  Newfoundland  and  Labrador,  which  have 
never  before  been  mentioned  in  works  of  this  chan.ri,er.  The 
Handbook  is  designed  to  enable  travellers  to  visit  any  or  all 
of  the  notable  places  in  the  MariUme  Provinces,  with  economy 
of  money,  time,  and  temper,  by  giving  lists  of  the  hotels  with 
their  prices,  descriptions  of  the  various  routes  by  land  and  water, 
and  maps  and  plans  of  the  principal  cities.  The  letter-press 
contains  epitomes  of  the  histories  of  the  cities  and  the  ancient 
settlements  along  the  coast,  statements  of  the  principal  scenic 
attractions,  descriptions  of  the  art  and  architecture  of  the  cities, 
and  statistics  of  the  chief  industries  of  the  included  Provinces. 
The  brilliant  and  picturesque  records  and  traditions  of  the  early 
French  and  Scottish  colonies,  and  the  heroic  exploits  of  the 
Jesuit  missionaries,  have  received  special  attention  in  connection 
with  the  localities  made  &mous  in  those  remote  days ;  and  the 
lemarkable  legends  and  mythology  of  the  Micmac  Indians  are 


110378 


it 


FBITAGft 


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ineosponted  wiili  the  aeooinilB  of  the  pleoet  made  deMte  hf 
them.  The  nsral  and  militaiy  opeiatioiui  of  the  wan  whiek 
eentred  on  Port  Boyal,  Louisbonig,  and  Quebec  have  been  eon- 
denaed  from  the  best  authorities,  and  the  moumful  events  which 
aie  commemorated  in  '^  Evangeline "  are  herein  analyzed  and 
recorded.  The  noble  coast-scenery  and  the  favorite  snmmer- 
yoyages  with  which  the  northern  seas  abound  have  been  d^ 
acribed  at  loigth  in  these  pages. 

The  plan  and  structure  of  the  book,  its  system  of  treatment 
and  forms  of  abbreviation,  have  been  derived  from  the  European 
Handbooks  of  Earl  Baedeker.  The  typography,  binding,  and 
system  of  city  plans  also  resemble  those  of  Baedeker,  and  hence 
tiie  grand  desiderata  of  compactness  and  portability,  which  have 
made  his  works  the  most  popular  in  Europe,  have  -also  bten 
attained  in  the  present  volume.  Nearly  all  the  fiicts  concerning 
the  routes,  hotels,  and  scenic  attractions  have  been  framed  or 
yeiified  from  the  Editor's  personal  experience,  after  many 
months  of  almost  incessant  travelling  for  this  express  purpose. 
But  infallibility  is  impossible  in  a  work  of  this  nature,  especial- 
ly amid  the  rapid  chimges  which  are  ever  going  on  in  America, 
and  hence  the  Editor  would  be  grateful  for  any  bona  fide  cor- 
rections or  suggestions  with  which  either  travellers  or  residents 
may  &vor  him. 

The  maps  and  plans  of  cities  have  been  prepared  with  the 
greatest  care,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  material  service  to  all 
who  may  trust  to  their  directions.  They  are  based  on  the  system 
of  lettered  and  numbered  squares,  with  figures  corresponding  to 
similar  figures,  attached  to  lists  of  the  chief  public  buildings, 
hotels,  churches,  and  notable  objects.  The  hotels  indicated  by 
asterisks  are  those  which  are  bdieved  by  the  Editor  to  be  the 
most  comfortable  and  elegant 

M.  F.  SWEETSEB, 

Sdiior  of  OtgootTs  American  Handbookt, 

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MAP  or  THE 


MiiimMi:  piifiicii 


WITH  PORTIONS  or  MAINE  &  QUEBEC. 

rUBLlSHhlD  rOACCOMl*ANY 

The  Maritmie  ProviiieevS :  aHaiuibook  forTravellea's" 
JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  A  C9  BOSTON  AMSS. 


SCIAI.E  or  MILKS 

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CONTENTS.    ^* 

.       V i   ;^ 

L  Flak  or  Tour »      .      .      .       >    X     ^r^ 

II.  Newfoundland  and  Labrador ,       .        S  ^"^^^ 

IIL  MONKT  AND  TrATELLINO  ExFEMSBS  .         .         .         i         .         .         .#,;,.. 

lY^  Railways  /lnd  Steakboatb.       <.       .       .       '      .       .       *       •  4       ;; 

V.  Round-Trip  Excursions .     S  ,; 

VI.  Hotels    .       ,       ,       •       , ,T  ^i'lJm 

V7L  Language .7        ,»| 

¥IIL   CUMATB  AND  DRESS 8     "^ 

mJL*   inSHINQ  •         •         •         •         •  •         ••         •«         •   •  .'V 

X.  Miscellaneous  Notes  .      • 9    .^  j>a 

NEW  BRUNSWICK. 

BOIJTK 

General  Notes    .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .    18       \| 

L  St.  John  .............       10    ;,^^1. 

8.  The  Environs  op  St.  John     ........       .•  88  ■4'''^M 

1.  Lily  Lake.    Manh  Road ^||jii|H#' 

8.  Mispeck  Road.    Suspension  Bridge  .....     -^^Wti 

8.  Carleton 84       >i> 

8.  St.  John  to  Eastport  and  St.  Stephen.    FAsaAKAQUODDY  Bat      .   88 

4  Qrand  Manan ...$8 

78.  Cawpobello 88a,        /| 

&  St.  John  to  St.  Andrews  and  ^.  Stephen.    Fassamaquodot  Bat    80 

L  St  Geoxge.    Lake  Utopia .       .       .       .       .       ,       .       .       .88         ^1 
8.  St  Andrews.    Chamcook  Mountain     .       .  .       .       .       88 

8^  St  Stephen.    Scboodic  Lakes .86         -^J 

ft  St.  Andrews  and  St.  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Houlton       .       88 

7.  St.  John  to  Banoor,       .       .       , .87 

8.  St.  John  to  Fredericton.    The  St.  John  River  ....       88 

1.  Kennebecasis  Bay 40 

8.  Belleisle  Bay  ......       ^       .....       48 

8.  Fredericton .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       «       .       .       .*  44  -    %•« 

4.  Fredericton  to  Miramichi      «       .       ,       .       ,       .       .       .       48  "     ^'^ 
8i  Washadbmoax  Lake  .      ,      ,      «      «      .      .      ,      .      .      .  47 
la  Grand  Lake  .  .      .      ,      .,      «      .      .      ,      ,      .      48 

11.  Fredericton  to  Woodstock    .       ,      .      .      .      .      .      »      .  418  ^¥^ 

18.  FRB^mtcTON  to  Woodstock,  mr  the  St.  Johv  Biveh  .      .      .       81   '^^f 
18l  Woodstock  to  Grans  Falls  AKD  Riviftm  D9  Lqup  .      ,      .      .  88    4 

•  <l 

«■' ..  -.       I I  iiiiiiiiiimiiiiii     i'-  --']---^-'-- 


*.->■. 


^r 


."^■'. 


OONTKBIT& 


1  fbbiqae  to  Bftthnnt    .... 
^       %  The  8t  John  to  the  Reitlgoache 
>         .    &  The  IfadawBSka  District 

4.  Tks  Maine  Woods.    Temiscouata  Lake  . 

U,  St.  John  to  Sbkdiac 

16.  Tub  B4t  of  Ckalkub  asi>  tbv  Nobth  Bhobe  or 
1.  Chatham  to  Shippigan  .... 
8.  Shippigan.    Bay  of  Chaleur     . 
8.  Bathurat  to  Caraquette 
4.  Campbellton  to  St  Flavir 
,.  M.  St.  Johh  to  Amberst  and  Haufax       . 
L  <)uaco.    Sussex  Vale  .       . 

Sl  Albert  County.    Moncton  to  Quebec  . 


:>^--'> 


tSAOft 
M 


•       ...     ■  ft7 
•     '  .  .08 

.       .         M 
New  Bbumswick    00 

ta 

.     64 

...         66' 

.     6» 

.       .         70 

.     71 

7S 


'9^i\/ 


'■■},'^i" 


8.  Dorchester.    Sackville .     78 


#J 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 

General  Notes .       .       . 

17.  St.  John  to  Amhsbst  and  Halifax     ..... 

1.  Tantramar  Marsh.    Chignecto  Peninsula 

8.  North  Shoi^  of  Nova  Scotia 

18.  St.  John  to  Halifax,  st  the  Annapolis  Valuit 

L  Annapolis  Royal 

'^3.  The  Annapolis  Valley . 

8.  Kentville  to  Chester 

19.  Haufax '      .       , 

$0k  The  Bnvibons  of  Halifax 

1.  Bedford  Basin.    Point  Pleasant 

SI.  The  Basin  of  Minas.    Halifax  to  St.  John    .... 

1.  Advocate  Harbor  and  Cape  d'Or ....... 

2.  The  Basin  of  Minas 

88.  The  Land  of  Evangeline  .       .       .       .' 

88.  Annapous  Royal  to  Clabe  and  Yarmouth 

1.  The  Clare  Settlements 

2.  The  Tusket  Lakes  and  Archipelago 

84.  DiQBV  Neck 

8K.  &AUFAX  TO  Tabhouth.    The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia 

1.  Cape  Sambro.    Lunenburg 

8.  Liverpool 

8.  Shelbume 

4  Cape  Sable 

a&  Halifax  to  Tabhouth,  by  the  Shore  Route      .       .       .       . 

1.  Chester.    Mahone  Bay     . 

Si  Chester  to  Liverpool    .       .       .       .       .       .       .       . 

87.  The  Liverpool  Lakes r       . ,     .       . 

88,  Halifax  to  Tanoieb 

81^  Thb  Nobthbabt  CoiAST  or  Nova  Scotia 

^  flUMUB  l8Ujn> 


76 
78 
70 
81 
88 
85 

d& 

90 
9S 
100 
100 
101 
106 
104 
107 
112 
113 
115 
116 
117 
118 
180 
181 
123 
126 
127 
128 
129 
181 
188 
184 


(XnSTENTB. 


Tii 


5i 


57 
68 
60 
00 
61 
M 


ro 
a 

rs 


r6 
rs 
r» 
n 
» 


Mm 

81.  St.  John  asd  Halifax  to  Piotov  .      •      .      .  .180 

82.  St.  Jobh  avs  Halotax  to  thb  Stkait  of  Gaxbo  axd  Cafb  Buooar  188 

CAFE  BRETON. 

General  Notes       . .      .  141 

88.  Ths  Strait  or  Canso 148 

84.  Arichat  Ain>  Isle  Madamx       .:......  145 

85.  The  Strait  of  Camso  to  Sydney,  CAPfe  BRETOif       ....  148 

86.  Halifax  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton 148 

87.  The  East  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.    The  Sydney  Coal-Fixum       .  158 

88.  The  Fortress  of  Louisbouro  .       .       .       ...       .       .  154 

89.  The  North  Shore  of  Cape  Breton .158 

L  St  Anne's  Bay      . 158 

8.  St.  Paul's  IsUnd 160 

40.  The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes 161 

1.  Baddeck 162 

8.  Great  Bras  d'Or  Lake .  164 

8.  The  Bras  d'Or  to  Halifax 166 

41.  Baddeck  to  Mabou  and  Port  Hood 167 

1.  St.  Patrick's  Channe? .    Wbycocomagh    .       .       .       .       .       .    167 

41  The  West  Coast  of  Cape  Breton l6S 

L  Port  Hood.    Mabou.  .       .       .       .       .       ...    169 

2.  Margaree.    The  Lord's  Day  Gale .       170 

PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

General  Notes .   172 

48.  Shediac  to  Summersidb  and  Cbarlottbtown       ....  174 

L  The  Northumberland  Strait     .       .       .       .       .       .       .  .174 

44.  Pictou  to  Prince  Edward  Island  .       ...       .       .       .  176 

45.  Charlottetown .       .  .175 

1.  Environs  of  Charlottetown 177 

40.  Charlottetown  to  Summersidb  and  Tignish.     The  Western 

Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island 177 

1.  Rustico.    Suminerai<'e 178 

47.  Charlottetown  to  Georgetown 180 

48.  Charlottetown  to  SorRts     .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .182 

49.  The  Magdalen  Islands     .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  188 

60.  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon .       .185 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

General  Notes 18t 

61.  Halifax  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland 188 

62.  St.  John's,  Newfoundland 189 

68.  The  Environs  of  St.  John's 196 

1.  Portugal  Cove.    Logie  Bay.    Torbay  196 

64.  TBI  BnuiT  Shore  of  Avalon.    St.  Jomr's  to  Caps  Rack  .  100 


■*'  ■>, 


Tiii 


OOHTJBM'IV. 


MOB 

L  The  Onnd  Buiki  of  Newfomidland IM 

05.  Br.  Jomr's  lo  LABKADom.    Tub  NoRTBnor  Coast  or  NiwiovirDi.An>  100 

1.  BonaTista  Bay M 

1  TwlUingate.    Exploite  Island      .......  fl05 

60.  St.  John's  to  Concsftiom  Bat 

6\  Twanrr  Bat.  .  .   '  . 

S&  Thb  Bat  or  Notbi  Damb SIO 

60.  FLAoamA  Bat SIS 

00.  The  Wnrsitir  Octpobts.    8t.  Jomr's  to  Capb  Rat  ....  SIS 

1.  Fortune  Bay S14 

2.  Hennitage  Bay 816 

0L  Tbb  Fbbnch  Shobb.    Cape  BIat  to  Capb  St.  Jobb      .       .       .  S10 

1.  The  Interior  of  NewfoundUmd S18 

5.  The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle SSO 

LABRADOR 

C(eneral  Notes 228 

01  Tbb  Atlantic  Coast,  to  tbb  Mobavian  Missions  and  Obbinlabd  224 

1.  The  Moravian  Missions 226 

08.  The  Labbadob  Coast  or  tbb  Stbait  or  Belle  Islb    .       .       .  SS7 

04.  Tbb  Labbaix^  Coast  or  the  OvLr  or  St.  Lawbencb    .       .       .  SSO 

1.  The  Mingan  Islands      .       , S81 

8.  The  Seven  Islands .  S8S 

06.  Abticosti      .              .       . 28A 

PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 

General  Notes       ..........  086 

0OL  PiCTOo  TO  Quebec.    The  Coasts  or  OaspI  .       .     ' .       ...  888 

1.  Faspebiac      . .  840 

2.  Ferc«. 848 

8.  Oasp6 844 

0^.  Tbb  Loweb  St.  Lawbencb 840 

1.  Father  Foint    Rimooski 850 

8.  Bic.    Trois  Pistoles 851 

8.  St  Anne  de  la  Pocatiire.    Llslet 858 

08l  Quebec 866 

1.  Durham  Terrace 850 

2.  Jesuits' College.    Basilica *       .       .  861 

8.  Seminary SOS 

4.  Laval  University.    Parliament  Building 868 

6.  HdtelDieu.    Around  the  Ramparts 806 

0.  The  Lower  Town 871 

00.  The  Envibons  or  Quebec  .........  870 

L  Beauport    Montmorencl  Fallf        .       .       .       .       .       .       .876 

8l  Indian  Lorette 878 

8.  Ch4teaix  Bigot    Silleiy    ...              880 

4.  FointLevL   Chandi^re  Falls      .......  S8S 


" 


4 


OOMTENTBw 


^ti  ■■ 


4 


PAOB 

70i  QuBBio  TO  La  Bomm  Bti.  Axnn .  S88 

L  The  Falls  of  8t  Anne S86 

71.  Tn  Isle  or  OiOBAin  S88 

72.  QuEBBC  TO  Cacocita  akd  TBI  Baquxvat  Bitxb     .       .       .       .       S91 

L  8t  Paul's  Bay 99t 

S.  Murray  Bay SM 

8.  Cacouna S96 

78.  Thb  Saouemat  River ..197 

1.  Tadousac 209 

2.  Chicoutimi 800 

8.  Ha  Ha  Bay.    Lake  St  John   .       .       .       .       ...       .       .801 

4  Eternity  Bay.    Cape  Trinity .       808 

74.  Quebec  to  Montreal.    The  St.  Lawrence  River   ....    805 

75.  Montreal 809 

L  Victoria  Square.    Notre  Dame 811. 

3.  The  GesiL    St.  Patrick's  Church 818 

&  Cathedral    McOill  University.    Great  Seminary  .       .       .       .814 
4  HdtelDieu.    Mount  BoyaL    Victoria  Bridge    ....       816 

7&  The  Environs  of  Montreal 818 

1.  Armmd  the  Mountain.    Sault  au  Recollet 818 

2.  Lachine  Rapids.    Caughnawaga 819 

&  BeloeUMt    St  Anne 820 

Index  to  Localities  821 

Index  to  Historical  and  Biographical  Allusions  ....  882 

Index  to  Quotations  S 888 

Index  to  Railways  and  Steamboats 884 

List  or  Authoritxbs  Consulted  .      .       .      .      .      .       ...  884 


i 


"'>«  r 


-.''•^M  I 


^*.+,;-. 


^    .. 


1.  Map  or  the  Makitimk  PiioviHcn. 

&  Map  op  Nkw^uholand  and  Labbador. 

&  Map  op  trb  Acadian  Land. 

4.  Map  op  ths  Saovenat  Rivkb. 

5.  Map  op  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  Riter. 


PLANS  OF  CITXB8. 


1.  St.  John  :  between  pages  14  and  15. 
8.  EUlifax  :  between  pages  92  and  98. 
8.  Quebec  :  between  pages  254  and  255. 
4  Montreal  :  between  pages  908  and  309. 


ABBREVIATIONS. 


N.  —  Nortli,  Northern,  etc. 

S.— South,  etc. 

'■ - 

K— East,  etc. 

^^^y 

W.  —  West,  etc. 

\'y:^-"'\~ 

N.  B.  —  New  Bninswick. 

N.  3.  -'Nova  Scotia. 

N.  P.  —  Newfoundland. 

^b£^/r. 

Lab.  —  Labrador. 

P.  E.  L  —  Prince  Edward  Island. 

P.  Q.  —  Province  of  Quebec 

M.  —  mile  or  miles. 

r.— right 

1.— left. 

ft — foot  or  feet 

hr.  —  hour. 

min.  —minute  or  minatet. 


AtteriEkt  denote  ottjects  deserving  of  special  attentioB. 


jr. 


[■^ 


<-Tt 


iK,:^ 


V 


'■^  -'J- ' 


•■■    A^    nut 


I  4; 


■! 


INTRODUCTION. 


! 


Z.   Plan  of  Tour. 

Ths  most  profitable  course  for  a  tourist  in  the  Lower  Provinces  is  to 
keep  moving,  and  his  route  should  be  made  to  include  as  many  as  pos- 
sible of  the  points  of  interest  which  are  easily  accessible.  There  are  but 
few  places  in  this  region  where  the  local  attractions  are  of  sufBcient  inter- 
est to  justify  a  prolonged  visit,  or  where  the  accommodations  for  stran- 
gers are  adapted  to  make  such  a  sojourn  pleasant  The  historic  and 
scenic  beauties  are  not  concentrated  on  a  few  points,  but  extend  through- 
out the  country,  affording  rare  opportunities  for  journeys  whose  general 
course  may  be  replete  with  interest.  The  peculiar  charms  of  the  Mari- 
time Provirces  are  their  history  during  the  Acadian  era  and  their  noble 
coast  scenery,  —  the  former  containing  some  of  the  most  romantic  episodes 
in  the  annals  of  America,  and  the  latter  exhibitiL^g  a  marvellous  blending 
of  mountainous  capes  and  picturesque  islands  with  the  blue  northern  sea. 
And  these  two  traits  are  intertwined  throughout,  for  there  is  scarce  a 
promontory  that  hasi  not  ruins  or  legends  of  French  fortresses,  scarce  a 
bay  that  has  not  heard  the  roaring  broadsides  of  British  frigates. 

The  remarkable  ethnological  phenomena  here  presented  are  also  cal- 
culated to  awaken  interest  even  in  the  lightest  minds.  The  American  tour- 
ist, accustomed  to  the  homogeneousness  of  the  cities  and  rural  communi- 
ties of  the  Republic,  may  here  see  extensive  districts  inhabited  by  French- 
men or  by  Scottish  Highlanders,  preserving  their  national  languages,  cus- 
toms, and  amusements  unaffected  by  th  j  presence  and  pressure  of  British 
influence  aud  power.  Of  such  are  the  districts  of  Clare  and  Madawaska 
and  the  entire  island  of  Cape  Breton.  The  people  of  the  cities  and  the 
English  settlements  are  quaintly  ultra-Anglican  (in  the  secular  sense  of 
the  word),  and  follow  London  as  closely  as  possible  in  all  matters  of  cos- 
tume, idiom,  and  social  manners. 

All  these  phases  of  provincial  life  and  history  afford  subjects  for  study 
or  amusement  to  the  traveller,  and  may  serve  to  make  a  summer  voyage 
both  interesting  and  profitable. 

Travelling  has  been  greatly  facilitated,  within  a  few  years,  by  the  es- 
tablishment of  railways  and  steamship  routes  throughout  the  Provinces. 
From  the  analyses  of  these  lines,  given  in  the  following  pages,  the  tourist 


INTBODUCnON. 


Kill  be  able  to  compute  the  cost  of  bis  trip,  both  in  money  and  in  time. 
The  following  tour  wonld  indode  $,  glimpse  at  the  chief  attractions  of  the 
country,  and  will  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  time  requisite : — 

Boston  to  St  John 1^  days. 

St.  John 1 

St.  John  to  Antiapolis  and  Halifax      .       .       .       .  2 

Halifax 1 

Halifax  to  Sydney       .       .       .       .       .       .       .  1^ 

The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes 1 

Port  Hawkesbury  to  Pictou,  Charlottetown,  and  Shediac  2 

Shediac  to  Quebec  (by  steamer) 4 

Quebec         .........  8 

Quebec  to  Boston    .       .        .       .       ...       .1 

I'ailures  to  connect      . 8 


21  days. 

To  this  circular  tour  several  side-trips  may  be  added,  at  the  discretion 
of  the  traveller..  The  most  desirable  among  these  are  the  routes  to  Pas- 
samaquoddy  Bay,  the  St  John  River,  the  Basin  of  Mines  <to  Parrsboro'), 
ftom  Halifax  to  CXiester  and  Mahone  Bay,  Whyoocomi^h,  or  Louisbourg 
(in  C!ape  Breton),  and  the  Saguenay  River.  EiUier  of  these  side-trips  will 
take  from  two  to  fom*  days. 

If  the  tourist  wishes  to  sojourn  for  several  days  or  weeks  in  one  place^ 
the  most  eligible  points  for  such  a  visit,  outside  of  St.  John  and  Halifax; 
are  St  Andrews,  Grand  Manan,  or  Dfdhousie,  in  New  Brunswick ;  An- 
napolis, Wolfville,  Parrsboro',  or  Chester,  in  Nova  Scotia ;  Baddeck,  in 
Cape  Breton  ;  and,  perhaps,  Summerside,  in  Prince  Edward  Island.  At 
each  of  these  villages  are  small  but  comfortable  inns,  and  the  surround- 
ing scenery  is  attractive. 

II.    Kewfonndltnd  and  Labrador. 

Extended  descriptions  of  these  remote  northern  coasts  have  bee;^  given 
in  the  following  pages  for  the  use  of  the  increasing  number  of  travellers 
who  yearly  pass  thitherward.  The  marine  scenery  of  Newfoundland  is 
the  grandest  on  the  North  Atlantic  coast,  and  here  are  all  the  varied  phe- 
nomena of  the  northern  seas,— icebergs,  the  aurora  borealis,  the  herds  of 
seals,  the  desolate  and  lofty  shores,  and  the  vast  fishing-fleets  from  which 
France  and  the  United  States  draw  their  best  seamen.  English  and 
American  3rachtsmen  grow  more  familiar  every  year  with  these  coasts, 
and  it  is  becoming  more  common  for  gentlemen  of  our  Eastern  cities 
to  embark  on  fishing-schooners  and  make  the  voyage  to  Labrador  or  the 
Banks. 

The  tourist  can  also  reach  the  remotest  settlements  on  the  Labrador 


-. 


Mt 


mTRODuonoiL 


ne. 
the 


.1 


ion 
as- 


■' 


\f 
|h 
Id 


lo 


ooast  by  tlie  steamship  lines  from  Halifax  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  and  thenoe 
to  Battie  Harbor.  This  route  takes  a  long  period  of  time,  though  the 
expense  is  comparatively  light ;  and  the  accommodations  on  the  steam- 
ships  beyond  St.  John's  are  quite  inferior.  A  shorter  circular  tour  may 
be  made  by  taking  the  steamer  from  Halifax  to  St.  John's,  and  at  S^ 
John's  embarking  on  the  Western  Outports  steamship,  which  coasts  along 
the  entire  S.  shore  of  the  island,  and  runs  down  to  Sydney,  G.  B., 
once  a  month.  From  Sydney  the  tourist  can  return  to  Halifax  (or  St. 
John,  N.  B.)  by  way  of  the  Bras  d'Or  Lakes.  The  Western  Outports 
steamship  also  visits  the  quaint  French  colony  at  St.  Pierre  and  Miquelon 
fortnightly,  and  the  traveller  can  stop  off  there  and  return  directly  to 
Halifax  by  the  Anglo-French  steamship,  which  leaves  St.  Pierre  fort- 
nightly. 

Sea-Sickneas,    The  chief  benefit  to  be  derived  on  these  routes  is  the 
invigoration  of  the  bracing  air  of  the  northern  sea.    Persons  who  are 
liable  to  sea-sickness  should  avoid  the  Newfoundland  trip,  since  rough 
weather  is  frequently  experienced  there,  and  the  stewards  are  neither  m 
numerous  nor  as  dexterous  as  those  on  the  transatlantic  steamships.    The 
Editor  is  tempted  to  insert  here  a  bit  of  personal  experience,  showing 
how  the  results  of  early  experiences,  combined  with  the  advice  of  veteran 
travellers,  have  furnished  him  with  a  code  of  rules  which  are  useful  against 
the  ifuU  du  mer  in  all  its  forms.    During  28  days  on  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  and  45  days  on  the  Canadian  waters,  the  observance  of  these  simple 
rules  prevented  sickness,  although  every  condition  of  weather  was  expe- 
rienced, from  the  fierce  simoom  of  the  Lybian  Desert  to  the  icy  gales  of 
Labrador.    The  chief  rule,  to  which  the  others  are  but  corollaries,  is, 
Don't  think  of  your  physical  self.    Any  one  in  perfect  health,  who  will 
busy  himself  for  an  hour  in  thinking  about  the  manner  In  which  his 
breath  is  inhaled,  or  in  which  his  eyes  perform  their  functions,  will  soon 
feel  ill  at  ease  in  his  lungs  or  eyes,  and  can  only  regain  tranquillity  by 
banishing  the  disturbing  thoughts.     Avoid,  therefore,  this  gloomy  and 
apprehensive  self-contemplation,  and  fill  the  mind  with  bright  and  eii- 
grossing  themes,  —  the  conversation  of  merry  companions,  the  exciting 
vicissitudes  of  card-playing,  or  the  marvellous  deeds  of  some  hero  of  ro- 
mance.   Never  think  of  your  throat  and  stomach,  nor  think  of  thinking 
or  not  thinking  of  them,  but  forget  that  such  conveniences  exist.    Keep 
on  deck  as  much  as  possible,  warmly  wrapped  up,  and  inhaling  the  salty 
air  of  the  sea.    Don't  stay  in  the  lee  of  the  fonnel,  where  the  smell  of  oU 
is  nauseating.    And  if  you  are  still  ill  at  ease,  lie  down  in  your  state- 
room, with  the  port-hole  slightly  opened,  and  go  to  sleep.    The  tourist 
should  purchase,  before  leaving  Halifax,  two  or  three  lively  novels,  a  fladi 
of  fine  brandy,  a  bottle  of  pickled  limes,  and  a  dozen  lemons. 


INTRODUCTION. 


in.   Hmuif  «Dd  ThiTAlling  XzptniM. 

The  tourist  will  experience  great  inconvenience  from  the  lack  of  a'iinl« 
form  currency  in  the  Provinces.  If  he  carries  New-Brunswick  money  into 
Nova  Scotia  or  Quebec,  it  can  only  be  passed  at  a  discount ;  and  the  same 
is  true  with  Nova  Scotia  or  Quebec  bills  in  either  of  the  other  Provinces. 
Dominion  notes  for  small  amounts  are  in  circulation.  To  save  frequent 
discounts,  it  is  best  for  the  tourist  to  carry  notes  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal, 
or  U.  S.  money,  changing  it,  in  each  Province,  for  the  amount  of  local 
currency  that  he  will  be  likely  to  need  there.  Respectable  shop-keepers 
in  the  cities  take  U.  S.  money  in  payment  for  their  goods,  valuing  it  at 
the  rate  at  which  it  is  quoted  on  the  local  exchange.  It  is,  however,  more 
economical  and  convenient  to  take  the  U.  S.  money  to  an  exchange  oflSce 
and  buy  as  much  of  the  local  currency  as  will  be  needed  during  the  so> 
joum.  The  shop-keepers  are  apt  to  charge  at  least  full  prices  to  people 
who  have  American  money. 

Canada  bills  are  issued  for  one  and  two  dollars.  American  silver  is 
very  unstable  in  its  valuation,  since  a  25-cent  piece  goes  for  from  20  to 
S4  cents  in  thi  same  city  and  on  the  same  day,  the  rato  of  exchange 
apparently  depending  on  the  time  of  day  and  the  mood  of  the  shop-keeper. 
Nova-Scotian  or  Canadian  money  is  held  at  a  heavy  discount  in  New- 
foundland, and  it  is  better  to  carry  greenbacks  there. 


17.    Bailwayi  and  Steamboati. 

The  new-bom  railway  system  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  is  being  ex- 
tended rapidly  on  all  sides,  by  the  eneigy  of  private  corporations  and 
the  liberality  of  the  Canadian  Government.  The  lines  are  generally  well 
and  securely  constructed,  on  English  principles  of  solidity,  and  are  not 
yet  burdened  by  such  a  pressure  of  traffic  as  to  render  travelling  in  any 
way  dangerous.  The  can)  are  built  on  the  American  plan,  and  are  suf- 
ficiently comfortable.  On  most  trains  there  are  no  accommodations  for 
smokers,  and,  generally,  when  any  such  convenience  exists,  it  is  only  to 
be  had  in  the  second-class  cars.  Pullman  qars  were  introduced  on  the 
Intercolonial  Railway  in  1874,  and  will  probably  be  reteined  there  during 
the  summer  seasons.  They  have  been  used  on  the  EurcT)dan  and  North 
American  road  for  some  years.  There  are  restaurants  at  convenient  dis- 
tances on  the  lines,  where  the  trains  stop  long  enough  for  passengers  t) 
take  their  meals.  The  narrow-gauge  cars  on  the  Prince  Edward  Island 
Railway  will  attract  the  attention  of  travellers,  on  account  of  their  singular 
construction.    The  tourist  has  choice  of  three  grades  of  accommodation 


t 


I 


INTRODUCTION. 


ez- 
and 

well 
not 
any 
suf- 

Isfor 

^y  to 
the 
ing 
rth 
dia« 
t> 

Hand 
liar 


I 


5 


The 


on  the  chief  railways,  —  Pullman  car,  first-class,  and  second-claM. 
latter  mode  of  travelling  is  very  uncomfortable. 

The  steamships  which  ply  along  these  coasts  affbrd  material  for  a 
naval  museum.  At  least  two  vessels  of  the  Quebec  and  Qulf  Ports 
fleet  were  captured  blc^.kade-runners ;  the  Edgar  Stuart  was  one  of  the 
most  daring  of  the  Cuban  supply-ships,  and  was  nearly  the  cause  of 
a  battle  between  the  Spanish  steamer  Tornado  and  the  U.  S.  frigate 
Wyoming,  in  the  harbor  of  Aspinwall ;  the  M.  A.  Starr  was  built  for 
a  British  gunboat ;  it  is  claimed  that  the  Virgo  was  intended  for  a  U.  S. 
man-of-war ;  and  there  are  several  other  historic  vessels  now  engaged  in 
these  peaceful  pursuits.  Good  accommodations  are  given  on  the  vessels 
which  ply  between  Boston  and  St.  John  and  to  Halifax  and  Prince  Ed- 
ward Island.  The  cabins  of  the  Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  steamships  are 
elegantly  fitted  up,  and  are  airy  and  spacious.  The  Annapolis,  Minas, 
Prince  Edward  Island,  and  Newfoundland  lines  have  comfortable  accom- 
modations, and  the  YaTinouth  and  North  Shore  vessels  are  also  fairly 
equipped.  The  lines  to  the  Magdalen  Islands,  St.  Pierre,  and  along  the 
Newfoundland  and  Labrador  coasts  are  primarily  intended  for  the  trans- 
portation of  freight,  and  foi'  successfully  encountering  rough  weather  and 
heavy  seas,  and  have  small  cabins  and  plain  fare.  The  Saguenay  steam- 
ers resemble  the  better  class  of  American  river-boats,  and  have  fine 
accommodations.  Since  the  Canadas  are  under  the  English  social  system 
and  have  retained  the  Old- World  customs,  it  will  l>e  found  expedient,  in 
many  cases,  to  conciliate  the  waiters  and  stewards  by  small  gifts  of 
money.  As  the  results  thereof,  the  state-rooms  will  be  better  cared  for, 
and  the  meals  will  be  more  promptly  and  generously  served. 

The  Mail-Stages.  — The  remoter  districts  of  the  Provinces  are  visited 
by  lines  of  stages.  The  tourist  will  naturally  be  deceived  by  the  grandil- 
oquent titles  of  "  Royal  Mail  Stage,"  or  "  Her  Majesty's  Mail  Route," 
and  suppose  that  some  reflected  stateliness  will  invest  the  vehicles  that 
bear  such  august  names.  In  point  of  fact,  and  with  but  two  or  three 
exceptions,  the  Provincial  stages  are  far  from  corresponding  to  such  ex- 
pectations ;  being,  in  most  cases,  the  rudest  and  plainest  carriages,  some- 
times drawn  by  but  one  horse,  and  usually  unprovided  with  covers.  The 
fares,  however,  are  very  low,  for  this  class  of  transportation,  and  a  good 
rate  of  speed  is  usually  kept  up. 

T.    Boand-Trip  Exoanioaii. 

During  the  summer  and  early  autumn  the  railway  and  steamship  com- 
panies publish  lists  of  excursions  at  greatly  reduced  prices.  Information 
and  lists  of  these  routes  may  be  obtained  of  Lucius  Tuttle,  General  Pas- 
senger Agent  of  the  Eastern  R.  R.,  Boston;  W.  H.  Kilby,  of  the  In- 
ternational Steamship  Co.,  Boston;  and  Leve&Alden,  Passenger  AgentSi 


6  INTRODUCTION. 

16  State  Street,  Boston,  and  207  Broadway,  New  York.  Small  booka  an 
issued  every  spring  by  these  companies,  each  ii^ving  several  hundred 
combinations  of  routes,  with  their  prices.  They  may  be  obtaine4  on 
application,  in  person  or  by  letter,  at  the  above-mentioned  offices.  Tlie 
excursion  tickets  are  good  during  the  season,  and  have  all  the  privileges 
of  firstrclass  tickets.  The  following  tours,  selected  from  the  books  of  the 
three  companies,  Trill  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  pecuniary  expense 
incurred  in  a  trip  from  Boston  through  the  best  sections  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces. 

INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  CO. 

HaliYax  Bound  Trip  Excurtion.  —  hMUm  to  St.  John  hj  Intemationai 
Steamsnlp  Co.'o  Steamers ;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  Bay  of  Fundt  Steamers : 
Annapolis  to  HalUkz  by  W.  &  A.  Railway  ;  HalifiuE  to  St.  John  by  Intercolonial 
Railway  ;  St  John  to  Boston  by  International  Steamship  Co.'s  Steamers.    Fare,  918. 

Three  Provinces  Excursion, — Boston  to  St.  John  by  International  Steam- 
ship Co.>8  Steamers ;  St.  John  to  Annapolis  by  Bay  of  Fundy  Steamers ;  Annapolis 
to  HaU&z  by  W.  &A.  Railway  ;  Halifla  to  Pictou  by  Intercolonial  Railway  ;  Pio* 
ton  to  Charlottetown  by  P.  B.  I.  Steamers }  Cbarlottetown  to  Summerslde  l^y 
P.  B.  I.  Railwav ;  Summerslde  to  Sbediac  by  P.  E.  I.  Steamers ;  Shediae  to  St. 
John  by  Intercolonial  Railway ;  St.  John  to  Boston  by  Intemationai  Steamship 
Co.*s  Steamers.    Fare,  9  22. 

Eastport  Excursion. — Boston  to  Eastport, and  return, by  Intemationai  Steam^ 
ship  Co.'s  Steamer.    Fare,  9  7.60. 

St.  John  Excutsion.  —Boston  to  Eastport,  and  St.  John,  and  return,  by  Intei^ 
national  Steamship  Co.'s  Steamer.    Fare,  9  8-o0. 

EASTERN  RAILROAD. 

Oraiid  Falls,  If.  B.,  and  Return,  via  Fredericton. 

Boston  to  Portland Eastern  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bangor Maine  Central  Railroad. 

Bangor  to  Yanceboro' European  and  North  American  Vj, 

Tanceboro'  to  Woodstock New  Bmnswiok  and  Canada  R'y. 

Woodsitook  to  Grand  Falls New  Brunswick  Railway. 

Grand  Falls  to  Gibson  (opposite  Frederic- 
ton) New  Bmnswiok  Railway. 

Frederleton  to  Fredericton  Junction Frederioton  Railway. 

Vrederieton  Junction  to  Yanceboro' St.  John  and  M^ne  Railway. 

Tanceboro'  to  Baagor. European  and  North  American  Sailwaj. 

Bangor  to  Portland Maine  Central  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Boston Eastern  Railroad. 

jB»t6  from  Boston ....  S 19. 

MoUifax,  y.  S.,  and  Jteium* 

Boston  to  Portland Eastem  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bangor Maine  Central  Railroad. 

Bangor  to  Yanoeboro' European  and  North  American  R'y. 

Yanceboro'  to  Oarleton St.  John  and  Maine  Railway. 

Carieton  to  St.  John Ferry. 

St.  John  to  Annapolis Union  Line  Steamers. 

Annapolis  to  HalUkz Windsor  and  Annapolis  Railway. 

Return  same  route. 

Il»te  frtnn  Boston ....  9  21 .76. 

ffaltfax,  N.  S.,  and  Setwm,  via  Quebec  and  Montreal, 

Boston  to  Portland Eastem  Railroad. 

Portland  to  Bangor. Maine  Central  Railroad. 

Bangor  to  Yanoeboro* European  and  North  A  meriean  K^y. 

Yanoeboro'  to  Oaitoton.... St.  John  and  Maine  IaUwij. 


1 


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tl 
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ai 


INTRODUCTION. 


are 
bred 

on 
The 
eges 

the 
ense 
time 


ionai 
aen: 
lOnial 
,»18. 
Eeam- 
kpoUs 
;  Pio- 

to  Si. 
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[ntei^ 


Oarleton  to  St.  John Terry. 

St.  John  to  HalUkx Intercolonial  Railway. 

Halifitz  to  Quebec Intercolonial  Railway. 

Quebec  to  Montreal Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

MoBkraal  to  Portland Qraod  Trunk  R^lway . 

Portland  to  Boston Eaatem  Railroad. 

Rate  from  Boston ....  9  40.60. 

The  route-book  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  may  be  obtained  by 
sending  to  the  General  Passenger  Agent,  D.  J.  Flanders,  Boston.  The 
prices  of  its  excursion-tickets  are  about  the  same  as  those  of  the  Eastern 
Railroad. 

VI.    Hotels. 

The  hotels  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  are  far  behind  the  age,  and 
thereby  tiie  pleasure  of  a  journey  in  this  beautiful  region  is  greatly 
lessened  for  the  sybaritic  Americans.  The  general  rates  at  the  better  ho- 
tels of  the  second-class  is  $  2  a  day;  and  the  village  inns  and  country  tav- 
erns charge  from  $  1  to  $  1.50,  with  reductions  for  boarders  by  the  week. 

VII.   lAngnage* 

The  English  language  will  be  found  sufficient,  nnless  the  tourist  desires 
to  visit  the  more  remote  districts  of  Cape  Breton,  or  the  Acadian  settle- 
ments. The  Gaelic  is  probably  the  predominant  language  on  Cape  Breton, 
but  English  is  also  spoken  in  the  chief  villages  and  fishing-communities. 
In  the  more  secluded  farming-districts  among  the  highlands  the  Gaelic 
tongue  is  more  generally  used,  and  the  tourist  may  sometimes  find  whole 
families,  not  one  of  whom  can  speak  English. 

In  the  villages  along  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  and  especially  on  the 
North  Shore,  the  French  language  is  in  common  use,  and  English  is 
nearly  unknown.  The  relation  of  this  language  to  the  polite  French 
speech  of  the  present  day  is  not  clearly  understood,  and  it  is  frequently 
stigmatized  by  Americans  as  ''an  imintelligible  patois"  This  state- 
ment is  erroneous.  The  Canadian  French  has  borrowed  from  the  Eng- 
lish tongue  a  few  nautical  and  political  terms,  and  has  formed  for  itself 
wcids  describing  the  peculiar  phenomena  and  conditions  of  nature  in  the 
new  homes  of  the  people.  The  ludians  have  also  contributed  numerous 
terms,  descriptive  of  the  animals  and  their  habits,  and  the  operations  of 
forest-life.  But  the  interpolated  words  are  of  rare  occurrence,  and  the 
language  is  as  intelligible  as  when  brought  from  the  North  of  France,  two 
centuries  ago.  It  is  far  closer  in  its  resemblance  to  the  Parisian  speech 
than  are  the  dialects  of  one  fourth  of  the  departments  of  France.  Trav- 
ellers and  immigrants  from  Old  France  find  no  difficulty  in  conversing 
with  the  Lower-Canadians,  and  the  aristocracy  of  Quebec  speak  as  pore 
an  idiom  as  is  used  in  the  Faubourg  St.  Germain. 


8 


INTRODUCTION. 


'  This  language  has  an  extensive  and  interesting  literature,  whicli  in- 
cludes science,  theology,  history,  romance,  and  poetry.  It  has  also 
numerous  newspapers  and  magazines,  and  is  kept  from  adulteration  by 
the  vigilance  of  several  colleges  and  a  powerful  university.  It  is  used, 
co-ordinately  with  the  English  language,  in  the  records  and  journals  of 
the  Dominion  and  Provincial  Parliaments,  and  speeches  and  pleadings 
in  French  are  allowable  before  the  Parliaments  and  courts  of  Canada. 

Thus  much  to  prove  the  substantial  identity  of  the  Lower-Canadian  and 
French  languages.  The  tourist  who  wishes  to  ramble  through  the  an- 
cient French-Canadian  districts  will,  therefore,  get  on  very  well  if  he  ha^ 
travelled  much  in  Old  France.  But  if  the  language  is  unknown  to  him, 
he  will  be  subjected  to  many  inconveniences  and  hardships. 

Yin.    Climate  and  Dress. 

The  more  northerly  situation  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  and  their  vicin- 
ity, on  so  many  sides,  to  the  sea,  render  the  climate  even  more  severe  and 
uncertain  than  that  of  New  England.  The  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are 
much  farther  apart  than  in  the  corresponding  latitudes  of  Europe,  and, 
as  Marmier  expresses  it,  this  region  ''combines  the  torrid  climate  of 
southern  regiouiik  with  the  severity  of  an  hyperborean  winter."  During 
the  brief  but  lovely  summer  the  atmosphere  is  clear  and  balmy,  and 
vegetation  flourishes  amain.  The  winters  are  long  and  severe,  but  ex- 
ercise no  evil  effect  on  the  people,  nor  restrain  the  merry  games  of  the 
youths.  Ever  since  Knowles  sent  to  England  his  celebrated  dictum  that 
the  climate  of  Nova  Scotia  consisted  of  "  nine  months  of  winter  and  three 
months  of  fog,"  the  people  of  Britain  and  America  have  had  highly  ex- 
aggerated ideas  of  the  severity  of  the  seasons  in  the  Provinces.  These 
statements  are  not  borne  out  by  the  facts ;  and,  though  Nova  Scotia 
and  New  Brunswick  have  not  the  mild  skies  of  Virginia,  their  coldest 
weather  is  surpassed  by  the  winters  of  the  Northwestern  States.  The 
meteorological  tables  and  the  physical  condition  of  the  people  prove  that 
the  climate,  though  severe,  is  healthy  and  invigorating.  The  timn  h^s 
gone  by  for  describing  these  Provinces  as  a  gloomy  land  of  frozen  Hyper- 
boreans, and  for  decrying  them  with  pessimistic  pen. 

The  worst  annoyance  experienced  by  tourists  is  the  prevalence  of  dense 
fogs,  which  sometimes  sweep  in  suddenly  from  the  sea  and  brood  over  the 
cities.  In  order  to  encounter  such  unwelcome  visitations,  and  also  to  be 
prepared  against  fresh  breezes  on  the  open  sea,  travellers  should  be  pro- 
vided with  heavy  shawls  or  overcoats,  and  woollen  imderclothiug  should 
be  kept  at  hand. 

IX.    Fishing. 

"Anglers  in  the  United  States  who  desire  to  fish  a  salmon-river  in  the 
Dominion  of  Canada  should  club  together  and  apply  for  the  fluvial  parts 


-m 


t» 


INTRODUCTION. 


9 


[dense 

erthe 

Itobe 

pro- 

lould 


the 
>art8 


<» 


of  riven. ....  The  government  leases  the  rivers  for  a  term  of  nine  years, 
and  rivers  unlet  on  the  first  day  of  each  year  are  advertised  by  the  gov- 
emment  to  be  let  to  the  highest  bidders.  The  places  of  residence  of  those 
tendering  for  fishini^s  are  not  considered  in  letting  a  river ;  and  if  a  gen- 
tleman from  the  Stites  overbids  a  Canadian,  the  river  will  be  declared  as 
his.    Rivers  are  therefore  hired  by  Europeans  as  well  as  by  Canadians 

and  citizens  of  the  States Rivers  are  either  let  in  whole  or  parts, 

each  part  permitting  the  use  of  a  given  number  of  rods,  generally  four. 
Parties  who  desire  to  lease  a  CanadiaAi  river  should  address  a  letter  to  the 
Minister  of  Marine  and  Fisheries,  at  Ottawa,  stating  how  mauy  rods  they 
have,  and  the  district  which  they  prefer  to  fish.  He  will  forward  them 
a  list  of  the  leasable  rivers,  and  a  note  of  information,  apon  which  they 
should  get  some  Canadian  to  make  the  tender  for  them.  The  leases  of 
fluvial  parts  of  rivers  vary  from  two  to  six  hundred  dollars  a  year  for 
from  three  to  eight  rods^  and  the  price  for  guides  or  gaffers  is  a  dollar  a 
day."  (This  subject  is  fully  discussed  in  Scott's  "  Fishing  in  American 
Waters.") 

"The  Game  Fish  of  the  Northern  States  and  British  Provinces,"  by 
Robert  B.  Roosevelt  (published  by  Carleton,  of  New  York,  in  1865), 
contains  an  account  of  the  salmon  and  sea-trout  fishing  of  Canada  and 
New  Brunswick.  The  pursuit  of  sea-trout  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence 
and  Laval  is  described  in  pages  50-88  and  315-321;  the  Labrador  rivers, 
pages  107-111  ;  the  Miramichi  and  Nepisiguit  Rivers,  pages  111  - 145 ; 
the  Schoodic  Lakes,  pages  145-147. 

"  Fishing  in  American  Waters,"  by  Genio  C.  Scott  (published  by  Har- 
per and  Brothers,  1869),  contains  practical  directions  to  sportsmen,  and 
graphic  descriptions  of  fishing  in  the  rivers  of  New  Brunswick  and  Lower 
Quebec. 

"  Frank  Forester's  Fish  and  Fishing  of  the  United  States  and  British 
Provinces  of  North  America,"  by  H.  W.  Herbert  (New  York,  1^50),  is  to 
a  large  extent  technical  and  scientific,  and  contains  but  a  few  incidental 
allusions  to  the  provincial  fisheries. 

"  The  Fishing  Tourist,"  by  Charics  Hallock  (published  by  Harper  and 
Brothers,  1873),  contains  about  100  pages  of  pleasant  descriptions  relat- 
ing to  the  Schoodic  Lakes,  the  best  trout  and  salmon  streams  of  Nova 
Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  and  Cape  Breton,  the  Bay  of  C!haleur,  the  Sague- 
nay  and  Lower  St  Lawrence,  Anticosti,  and  Labrador. 

IX.  Hisoellancioai  Notei. 

The  times  of  departure  of  the  provincial  steamships  are  liable  to  change 
every  season.    The  tourist  can  find  full  particulars  of  the  days  of  sailing, 
etc.,  on  arriving  at  St.  John,  from  the  local  and  the  Halifax  newspa- 
pers.   The  names  of  the  agents  of  these  lines  have  also  been  given  here- 
in 


10 


INTRODUCTION. 


inafter,  and  fnrUier  infomuitioa  may  be  obtained  by  writing  to  their 
addresses. 

The  custom-house  formalities  at  the  national  frontiers  depend  less  npon 
the  actual  laws  than  upon  the  men  who  execute  th^JL  The  examination 
of  baggage  is  usually  conducted  in  a  lenient  manner,  but  trunks  and 
packages  are  sometimes  detained  on  account  of  the  presence  of  too  many 
Canadian  goods.  It^is  politic,  as  well  as  gentlemanly,  for  the  tourist  to 
afford  the  officers  every  facility  for  the  inspection  of  his  baggage. 

Travellers  are  advised  to  carefully  inspect  the  prices  of  goods  offered 
them  by  shop-keepers,  since  the  lavish  and  unquestioning  extravagance 
of  American  tourists  has  somewhat  influenced  the  tone  of  commercial 
morality. 

The  people  of  the  Provinces  are  generally  courteous,  and  are  willing  to 
answer  any  civilly  put  questions.  The  inhabitants  of  the  more  remote 
districts  are  distinguished  for  their  hospitality,  and  are  kindly  disposed 
and  honest 


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ROUTES    FROM    BOSTON   TO    THE   MARiriME 

PROVINCES. 


1.    By  Railway. 

Tiie  Eastern  and  Maine  Central  R.  R.  Lines  form  the  nsnal  mode  of  ap- 
proach by  land.  Their  train«  leave  the  terminal  station  on  Causeway  St, 
Boston,  and  ran  throngh  to  Bangor,  withont  change  of  cars.  Pullman  cars 
are  attached  to  tlie  through  trains,  and  tickets  are  sold  to  nearly  all  points 
in  the  Eastern  Provinces.  At  Bangor  passengers  change  to  the  cars  of 
the  European  &  North  American  R.  R.,  which  runs  E.  through  the  great 
forests  of  Maine  and  New  Brunswick  to  the  city  of  St  John.  Between 
Boston  and  Portland  this  route  traverses  a  peculiarly  interesting  country, 
with  frequent  glimpses  of  the  sea;  but  the  country  between  Bangor  and 
St.  John  is  almost  devoid  of  attractions. 

The  Boston  <f  Maine  R.  R.  may  also  be  used  as  an  avenue  to  the  Eastern 
Provinces,  connecting  at  Portland  with  the  lines  to  the  Eastward,  wilh 
good  accommodations  and  swift  trains,  parlor  cars,  and  other  first-class 
accommodations.  This  route  is  identical  with  the  preceding,  beyond 
Portland. 

2.    By  Steamship. 

The  International  Steamship  Company  despatches  vessels  three  times 
weekly  from  June  15  to  October  1,  leaving  Commercial  Wharf,  Boston,  at 
8  A.  M.,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday.  They  touch  at  Portland, 
which  is  left  at  6  p.  h.  ;  and  aftei'wards  they  run  along  the  Maine  coast, 
calling  at  Eastport  and  traversing  Passamaquoddy  Bay.  Fares, — from 
Boston  to  Eastport,  $5;  to  St.  John,  $5.50. 

The  Nova  Scotia  S.  S.  Co.  {Clements*  Line)  affords  the  most  convenieht 
route  to  visit  the  famous  hunting  and  fishing  grounds  of  the  western  coun- 
ties of  Nova  Scotia.  Their  steamships  leave  T  Wharf,  Boston,  once  a 
week,  for  Yarmouth,  Lunenburg,  and  Lockport,  giving  an  exhilarating 
voyage  across  the  open  sea.  Another  stanch  vessel  of  this  line  plies  reg- 
ularly between  Boston,  Digby,  and  Annapolis  (22  hours  at  sea). 


12       FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  MARITIME  PBOVINCES. 

The  Botton^  ItaiifaXf  and  Prince  Edward  Island  Steamship  Line^  de- 
spatch vessels  from  Nickenon's  Wharf,  Boston,  every  Saturday.  After 
reaching  Halifax  these  steamships  run  N.  E.  along  the  Nova-Scotia  coast, 
round  Cape  Canso,  and  traverse  the  picturesque  Gut  of  Canso.  They  call 
at  Pictou  and  then  run  across  to  Charlottetown.  By  leaving  the  vessel  at 
Port  Hawkesbury,  the  tourist  can  easily  reach  the  Bras  d'Or  and  other 
parts  of  the  island  of  Cape  Breton.  These  vessels  connect  at  Halifax  with 
the  railways  for  Windsor,  etc.,  and  the  Newfoundland  steamships;  and 
Port  Hawkesbury  with  the  Bras  d'Or  steamers ;  and  at  Pictou  with  the 
steamships  of  the  Quebec  S.  S.  Co.,  for  Quebec  and  Montreal. 


8.    Routes  by  way  of  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Montreal  may  be  reached  by  either  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.,  the  Mon- 
treal &  Boston  Short  Line  (Passumpsic  R.  R.),  or  the  Eastern  and  Grand 
Trunk  Lines.  These  routes  are  all  described  in  Osgood's  New  England: 
a  Handbook  for  Travellers.  The  most  picturesque  route  from  Quebec  to 
the  Maritime  Provinces  is  by  the  vessels  of  the  Quebec  Steamship  Company, 
which  leave  every  week  for  the  eastern  ports  of  Quebec  and  Nova  Scotia, 
connecting  with  the  local  lines  of  travel.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  extends 
around  from  Quebec  to  St.  John  and  Halifax,  but  runs  th'ough  a  desolate 

region. 

4.    Newfoundland, 

Passengers  bound  for  the  remoter  East,  for  Newfoundland  or  Labrador, 
will  find  the  best  accommodations  on  the  steamships  of  the  Allan  Line, 
which  run  from  Halifax  and  Baltimore  to  St.  John's,  N.  F.  (and  thence 
to  Liverpool,  etc.).  The  smaller  vessels  of  the  Cromwell  Line  (from  New 
York)  and  the  Acadian  Line  (from  Montreal)  also  run  to  St.  John's. 


Further  particulars  about  these  lines  and  their  accommodations,  the  days 
on  which  they  depart  for  Boston,  etc.,  may  be  found  in  their  advertise- 
ments, which  are  grouped  at  the  end  of  the  book.  There,  also,  may  be 
found  the  names  and  addresses  of  the  agents  of  the  lines,  from  whom  other 
information  may  be  obtained,  by  letter  or  by  personal  application.  The 
main  question  for  the  summer  tourist  will  naturally  be  whether  he  shall 
go  eastward  by  rail  or  by  a  short  sea-voyage.  The  Editor  has  travelled 
on  each  of  the  above-mentioned  lines  (with  one  exception)  and  on  some  of 
them  several  times,  and  has  found  them  well  equipped  and  comfortable. 


'I 


I 


MARITIME-PROYINCES  HANDBOOK. 


days 

srtise- 

|ay  be 

other 

The 

shaU 

relied 

leof 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 

Thb  Province  of  New  Brunswick  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
North  Temperate  Zone,  and  is  bounded  by  Maine  and  Quebec  on  the  W., 
Quebec  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and 
the  Northumberland  Strait  on  the  E.,  and  Nova  Scotia  and  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  on  the  S.  It  is  140  M.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  190  M.  from  N.  to 
S.,  and  contains  27,105  square  miles.  The  direct  coast-line  (exclusive  of 
indentations)  is  410  M.,  which  is  nearly  equally  divided  l)etween  the  S. 
and  E.  shores,  and  is  broken  by  many  fine  harbors.  The  Bay  of  Fundy 
on  the  S.,  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  on  the  N.,  are  of  great  size  and  com- 
mercial importance,  — the  former  being  140  M.  long  by  80-60  M.  wide; 
the  latter  being  90  M.  long  by  10  -  25  M.  wide.  The  fisheries  in  the  great 
bays  and  in  the  Gulf  are  of  immense  value,  employing  many  thousand 
men,  and  attracting  large  American  fleets.  They  have  furnished  suste- 
nance to  the  people  of  the  maritime  counties,  and  have  been  the  occasion 
of  developing  a  race  of  skilful  mariners.  During  the  past  50  years  6,000 
vessels  have  been  built  in  this  Province,  valued  at  nearly  $  80,000,000. 
The  lumber  business  is  conducted  on  a  vast  scale  on  all  the  rivers,  and 
the  product  amounts  to  $4,000,000  a  year. 

The  country  is  generally  level,  and  is  crossed  by  low  ridges  in  the  N. 
and  W.  There  are  numerous  lakes,  whose  scenery  is  generally  of  a  sombre 
and  mono^nous  character.  The  interior  is  traversed  by  the  rivers  St. 
John,  Restigouche,  Miramichi,  Petitcodiac,  Nepisiguit,  and  Richibucto, 
which,  with  their  numerous  tributaries,  afford  extensive  facilities  for  boat- 
navigation.  The  river-fisheries  of  New  Brunswick  are  renowned  for  their 
variety  and  richness,  and  attract  many  American  sportsmen. 

There  are  14,000,000  acres  of  arable  land  in  the  Provincd,  a  great  por- 
tion of  which  has  r.ot  yet  been  brought  into  cultivation.  The  intervales 
of  the  rivers  contain  60,000  acres,  and  are  very  rich  and  prolific,  being 
fertilized  by  annual  inundations.  The  chief  agricultural  products  are 
wheat,  buckwheat,  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  butter,  and  cheese  ;  but  farming 
operations  are  still  carried  on  in  an  antiquated  and  unscientific  manner. 

The  climate  is  less  inclement  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  than  farther  inland. 
The  mean  temperature  for  the  last  ten  years  at  St.  John  was,  for  the 
winter,  17^";  spring,  87^*;  summer,  58°;  autumn,  441**.    The  thermom- 


u 


NEW  BRUNSWICK 


eter  ranges  between  —31*  and  sr  as*  the  extremes  maiked  daring  the 
past  ten  years. 

The  present  domain  of  New  Brunswick  was  formerly  ocenpied  by  two 
distinct  nations  of  Indians.  The  M icmacs  were  an  offshoot  of  the  Algon- 
quin race,  and  inhabited  all  the  sea-shore  regions.  They  were  powerfhl 
and  hardy,  and  made  daring  boatmen  and  fishermen.  The  Milicetes  were 
from  the  Huron  nation,  and  inhabited  the  St.  John  valley  and  the  inland 
forests,  being  skilful  in  hunting  and  all  manner  of  woodcraft.  They  were 
less  numerous  and  warlike  than  the  Micmacs.  Both  tribes  had  a  simple 
and  beautiful  theology,  to  which  was  attached  a  multitude  of  quaint 
mythological  legends. 

This  region  was  included  in  the  ancient  domain  of  Acadie  (or  Acadia), 
which  was  granted  to  the  Sieur  De'Monts  by  King  Henri  IV.  of  France, 
in  1608.  De  Monts  explored  the  St.  John  River,  and  planted  an  ephemeral 
oolony  on  the  St.  Croix,  in  1604.  From  1686  until  1646  the  St.  John  River 
was  tiie  scene  of  the  feudal  wars  between  La  Tour  and  Charnisay.  Oliver 
Cromwell  sent  an  expedition  in  1664,  which  occupied  the  country;  but 
it  was  restored  to  France  by  Charles  II.  in  1670.  After  the  war  of  1689  - 
97,  this  region  was  again  confirmed  to  France,  and  its  W.  t)Oundary  was 
located  at  the  St.  George  River,  W.  of  Penobscot  Bay.  Meantime  the 
shoi^s  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  had  been  set- 
tied  by  the  French,  between  1639  and  1672.  The  New-Englanders  invaded 
the  Province  in  1703,  and  in  1713  Acadia  was  ceded  to  England. 

The  French  limited  the  cession  to  Nova  Scotia,  and  fortified  the  line  of 
the  Missiguash  River,  to  protect  the  domains  to  the  N.  In  1766  a  naval 
expedition  from  Boston  took  these  forts,  and  also  the  post  at  St.  John; 
and  in  1768  the  whole  Province  was  occupied  by  Anglo-American  troops. 
In  1768  it  was  surrendered  to  England  by  the  Treaty  of  Versailles. 

The  Americans  made  several  attacks  on  northern  Acadia  during  the 
Revolutionary  War,  but  were  prevented  from  holding  the  country  by  the 
British  fleets  at  Halifax.  At  the  close  of  the  war  many  thousands  of 
American  Loyalists  retired  from  the  United  States  to  this  and  the  adjoin- 
ing countries.  In  1784  New  Brunswick  was  organized  as  a  Province, 
having  been  previously  dependent  on  Nova  Scotia;  and  in  1788  the  capi- 
tal was  established  at  Fredericton.  Immigration  from  Great  Britain  now 
commenced,  and  the  forests  began  to  give  way  before  the  lumbermen.  In 
1889  the  Province  called  out  its  militia  on  the  occasion  of  the  boundary 
disputes  with  Maine;  and  in  1861  it  was  occupied  with  British  troops  on 
account  of  the  possibility  of  a  war  with  the  United  States  about  the  Trent 
affair.  In  1866  New  Brunswick  refused,  by  a  popular  vote,  to  enter  the 
Dominion  of  Canada,  but  it  accepted  the  plan  the  next  year,  and  became 
a  part  of  the  Dominion  in  1867. 

The  populatior4  of  New  Brunswick  was  74,176  in  1824, 154,000  in  1840, 
285,777  in  1871,  and  321,233  in  1881. 


1  during  tfa« 


ii 


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They  were 
had  a  simple 
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ST.  JOHN. 


JtoMtel    15 


1  St  Jolm. 

ArrlT«l  from  the  Sea*  —  Soon  after  panring  Negro  Head,  tb«  stMincr  mns 
fa  by  Partridge  Isumd,  the  round  and  rocky  guard  of  the  harbor  of  St.  John.  Its 
precipitous  sidM  &re  seamed  with  deep  clefts  and  narrow  chasms,  and  on  tiM  upland 
are  Jeen  the  Qtiarantine  Hospital,  the  buildings  of  the  steam  fog-horn  and  the  light- 
house,  and  the  ruins  of  a  cliff  battery.  On  the  I.  is  the  bold  headland  of  Negrotovm 
Point,  crownec*!  by  dilapidtited  earthworks.  The  course  now  leads  in  by  the  Beacon- 
light  (I.  side),  with  the  Martelib  Tower  on  Oarleton  Heights,  and  the  high-placed 
St.  Jnde's  Church  on  the  1.  In  front  are  the  gieen  slopes  and  barracks  of  the  Mili- 
tary Orounds,  beyond  which  are  the  populous  hills  of  St.  John. 

Hotels.  —  The  Hotel  DuSerin,  at  the  comer  of  Charlotte  St.  and  King  Square, 
Is  the  best  (9  2.50  a  day).  The  New  Victoria  is  a  good  hotel,  on  Princess  St.,  near 
Germain  St.  The  Park  Hotel  is  on  the  N.  fi.  side  of  King's  Square,  and  several 
smaller  houses  of  varying  grades  ara  in  the  same  vicinity.  The  Waverley  la  oo 
^"  ^  St.,  and  is  an  old-fashtonc)  British  public-house. 

'  musements.  —  Theatrical  performances  and  other  entertainments  are  flre- 

'•  'fcly  gi^en  at  the  Academyof  Music,  on  Qermain  St,  near  Duke  St.  The 
Academy  can  accommodate  2,000  people.  Lectures  and  concerts  are  given  in  the 
hail  of  the  Mechanics-  Institute,  near  the  head  of  Germain  St. 

Beadlnc-Rooms.  —  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  on  Charlotte 
St.,  near  King  Square ;  open  flrom  9  a.  h.  until  10  p.  m.  The  Mechanics'  Institate, 
near  the  head  of  Qermain  St.,  has  an  extensive  variety  of  British  papers  on  die. 

Oarrtases.  —  For  a  course  within  the  city,  dOe.  for  one  passenger,  lOe.  for  eaeh 
additional  one.  For  each  half-hour,  60c.  If  the  river  is  crossed  the  passenger  pays 
the  toll,  which  is,  for  a  double  carriage,  15c.  each  way  by  ferry,  20c.  by  the  bridge. 

Omnibuses  run  flrom  Market  Square  through  Dock  and  Mill  Sts.,  to  the  ter- 
minus of  the  river  steamboat-lines,  at  Indiantown. 

Ballvrays.  —  The  St.  John  and  Maine  Railway  runs  W.  to  Bangor  in  206  M., 
connecting  there  with  the  Maine  Central  and  Eastern  lines  for  Boston,  449  M.  flrom 
St.  John.  The  same  road  also  has  a  branch  to  Fredericton.  The  Intercolonial 
Railway  runs  B.  to  Shediac,  Truro,  and  Halifax  (276  M.),  and  to  Quebec. 

Steamships.  —  The  Temperley  and  other  lines  run  steamships  occiiilonally 
between  St.  John  and  Liverpool,  or  London.  The  International  Steamshfp  Com- 
pany despatch  their  sea-worthy  vessels  flrom  St.  John  for  Boston,  touching  at  Rast- 
port  and  Portland,  and  connecting  with  steamers  for  St.  Andrews,  St.  Stephen, 
Calais,  and  Grand  Manan.  In  Jan.  and  Feb.  they  leave  St  John  on  Thursdays ; 
from  March  to  July,  and  from  Sept.  22  to  Jan.,  they  leave  on  Mondays  and  Thurs- 
days ;  and  July,  Aug.,  and  early  Sept.,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday.  8ai^ 
ing  time,  8  A.M.  Faro  to  Boston,  $5.50.  Time,  St.  John  to  Eastport,  4  hrs. ;  to 
Portland,  lA  hrs.;  to  Boston,  27  hrs.  The  Annapolis  steamers  cross  the  Bay  of 
Fundy  to  Digby  and  Annapolis  several  times  weekly,  at  8  a.m.,  connecting  at  An- 
napolis with  the  railway  for  Halifax.  During  some  seasons,  steamers  run  flrom  St. 
John  to  Yarmouth,  to  the  Basin  of  Minaa  (Parrsboro'  and  Windsor),  and  to  St. 
Andrews,  and  St.  Stephen.    The  railway  to  St.  Stephen  is  finished. 

St.  John  River  Lines.— -Th»  steamers  of  the  Union  Line  leave  Indiantown  dally 
at  9  A.  M  ,  for  Fredericton  and  the  intermediate  landings  Three  times  a  week 
thero  is  a  night-boat,  louring  «t  6  P.  m.,  for  Fredericton  and  the  intermediate  land- 
ings. The  Fawn  leaves  Indiantown  on  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  at  8  A.M., 
for  G^etown  and  Grand  Lake.    Boats  to  the  Washademoak  Lake  are  unoertala 

The  Oarleton  fbrry-steamers  leave  tho  foot  of  Princess  St.  every  15  minutes  antU 
0.80  P  M.    Fare,  8o. ;  for  one-horse  carriages,  0  o. ;  for  two>honw  earitafes,  15  e. 


16      Haute  J. 


ST.  JOHN. 


St.  John,  the  chief  city  of  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick  and  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  occupies  a  commanding 
position  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  River.  From  its  favorable  situation 
for  the  purposes  of  commerce  it  has  been  termed  "the  Liverpool  of 
Canada, "  and  claims  the  proud  position  of  the  fourth  port  of  the  British 
Empire,  next  after  London,  Liverpool,  and  Glasgow.  The  city  has  26,127 
inhabitants  (census  of  1881),  and  the  contiguous  city  of  Portland  has 
15,227  more.  The  ridge  upon  which  it  is  built  is  composed  of  solid  rock, 
through  which  streets  have  been  cut  at  great  expense ;  and  the  plan  of  the 
streets  is  regular,  including  a  succession  of  rectangular  squares.  The 
general  appearance  of  the  city  is,  however,  somewhat  uneven  and  dingy ^ 
owing  to  the  difference  in  the  size  of  the  buildings  and  to  the  absence  of 
paint.  The  harbor  is  good,  and  is  kept  free  from  ice  by  the  high  tides  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  sweeping  current  ot  the  St.  John  River.  It  is 
usually  well  filled  with  shipping,  and  the  shores  are  lined  with  wharves 
tnd  mills.  The  hill-country  in  the  vicinity  is  barren  but  picturesque,  and 
affords  a  variety  of  pleasing  marine  views.  The  fire  department  has  3 
8team>engiites,  but  is  seldom  called  into  service.  There  are  41  churches 
in  St.  John  and  Portland,  of  which  the  Church  of  England  claims  prece- 
dence in  poin^  of  numbers.  There  are  4  banks,  and  4  daily  and  several 
w«ekly  papers. 

Kintji  Street  is  the  main  business  street  of  the  city,  and  runs  from  the 
harbor  across  the  peninsula  to  Courtenay  Bay.  All  the  principal  shops 
are  on  this  street,  between  the  harbor  and  King  Square,  and  along  Prince 
William  St.^  which  intersects  it  near  the  water.  At  the  foot  of  the  street 
is  the  Market  Slipy  into  which  the  light  packet-boats  and  produce-vessels 
from  the  adjacent  rural  counties  bring  wood  and  provisions  for  the  use 
of  the  city.  At  low  tide,  these  vessels  are,  for  the  most  part,  left  to 
hold  themselves  up  on  the  muddy  flats.  At  this  point  landed  the  weary 
and  self-exiled  American  Loyalists,  in  1788,  and  founded  the  city  of  St. 
John.  The  rather  dreary  breadth  of  King  St.  is  occupied  in  its  lower 
part  by  wagoners  and  unemployed  workmen.  From  this  point  the  street 
ascends  a  steep  hill,  passing  the  chief  retail  shops,  and  several  banks  and 
hotels,  with  numerous  fine  buildings  on  the  rebuilt  district.  King  Square 
is  an  open  space  of  about  3  acres  in  area,  studded  with  trees,  and  adorned 
in  the  centre  with  a  fountain.  Before  the  great  fire,  its  entrance  was 
adorned  with  a  pretentious  triumphal  arch,  erected  in  honor  of  Prince 
Arthur's  visit,  and  afterwards  utilized  for  sustaining  the  fire-alarm  hell. 
The  City  Market  House  is  on  the  E.,  and  exhibits  the  products  of  this 
region  on  well-arranged  stalls.  A  few  steps  N.  W.  of  the  Square  (on 
Charlotte  St. )  is  tl;«  handsome  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association,  containing  a  large  hall,  gymnasium,  parlors,  and  class-rooms. 
The  library  and  reading-room  are  open  daily  (e-xcept  Sunday)  from  0  A.  m. 
to  10  P.  M.,  and  strangers  are  welcomed.    The  building  cost  988,000,  and 


ST.  JOHN. 


BouieL      17 


was  dedicated  in  1872,  bnt  subsequently  gave  signs  of  instability,  and  has 
since  been  strengthened  at  considerable  expense.  The  County  Court 
House  and  Jail  are  at  the  S.  R  comer  of  King  Square,  and  are  antiquated 
and  homely  stone  buildings.  To  the  E.  is  the  Old  Burying-Oround^  con- 
taining the  graves  of  the  pioneers  of  the  province,  with  epitaphs  in  many 
cases  quaint  and  interesting. 

Trinity  Church  extends  from  Germain  St.  to  Charlotte  St.,  near  Prin- 
cess St.,  and  is  the  finest  church-building  in  the  Maritime  Provinces,  being 
massively  constructed  of  gray  stone,  with  rambling  connections,  and  a 
very  striking  interior.  Occupying  a  conspicuous  position  near  the  crest 
of  the  hill,  it  is  visible  for  a  great  distance.  The  first  church  on  this  site 
was  built  in  1788,  and  contained  mural  tablets  and  the  Royal  Arms  from 
Trinity  Church,  New  York,  brought  here  by  the  Loyalists  in  1783.  This 
venerable  building  was  destroyed  in  the  great  fire  of  1877.  Not  far  from 
Trinity  is  the  Masonic  Temple,  a  large  and  coitly  new  edifice  of  brick. 
The  publishing  house  of  the  McMillans  is  on  a;i  adjacent  street,  with  ita 
printing-office  and  book-store. 

By  ascending  the  next  street  (Queen)  to  the  1.,  Queen  Square  is  reached^ 
—  a  carelessly  kept  park  surrounded  with  dwelling-houses.  A  shoii;  dis- 
tance to  the  E.,  on  St.  James  St.,  is  the  Wiggins  Male  Orphan  Institu- 
tion, a  new  building  in  Gothic  architecture,  of  red  and  gray  sandstone. 
It  is  the  most  elegant  and  symmetrical  structure  of  its  size  in  the  Prov- 
ince, and  cost  over  $  100,000,  but  is  only  adequate  to  the  accommodation 
of  30  orphans.    The  Marine  Hospital  is  in  this  vicinity. 

A  short  walk  out  Sydney  St.  or  Caermarthen  St.  leads  to  the  Military 
OronndB,  on  the  extreme  S.  point  of  the  peninsula.  Here  is  a  spacious 
parade-ground,  which  is  now  used  only  by  the  cricket  and  base-ball  clubs, 
with  a  drill-shed  which  will  hold  2,000  soldiers.  These  grounds  were 
formerly  occupied  by  large  detachments  from  the  British  army,  whose 
officers  were  a  desired  acquisition  to  the  society  of  the  city,  while  the  mili- 
tary bands  amused  the  people  by  concerts  on  Queen  Square. 

Prince  William  Street  runs  S.  from  Market  Square  to  Reed's  Point,  and 
is  one  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  containing  several  hotels  and 
some  of  the  largest  shops.  Where  it  crosses  Princess  St.,  the  Carleton 
ferry  is  seen  to  the  r.  The  *  Post-Offioe  is  an  elegant  building  of  gray 
;::andstone.  at  the  comer  of  Princess  St. ;  opposite  which  is  the  new  City 
Hallf  a  handsome  stone  building.  The  Savings  Bank,  the  Bank  of  New 
Brunswick,  and  other  institutions,  are  luxuriously  domiciled  in  this  vi- 
cinity. The  great  fire  of  1877,  which  destroyed  several  millions'  worth 
of  property  in  St.  John,  swept  this  district  clean,  and  many  elegant  new 
buildings  have  since  arisen.  The  *  Custom  House  is  of  creamy  Dorches- 
ter sandstone,  costing  $250,000,  with  iron  roofs  and  fire-proof  floors,  and 
two  tall  towers  for  the  time-ball,  the  shipping  signals,  and  the  storm- 
dnun.  It  contains  several  of  the  provincio-national  offices,  and  a  storm- 
•ignal  station  which  receives  warnings  from "'  Old  Probabilities  "  at  Wash- 


18     MouUl. 


ST.  JOHN. 


M  ' 


ington.  The  street  ends  at  ReecTt  Painty  the  headquarters  of  several 
lines  of  coasting-steamers,  whence  may  be  seen  the  Breakwater,  W.  of 
the  Military  Grounds. 

At  the  N.  end  of  Germain  St.  is  the  old  Stone  Church,  a  sanctnary  of 
the  Episcopalians  under  the  invocation  of  St.  John.  Its  square  stone 
tower  is  visible  for  a  long  distance,  on  account  of  the  elevation  of  the  site 
on  which  it  stands.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  brick  Calvin  Church  (Presby- 
terian); and  in  the  same  vicinity  is  the  classic  wooden  front  of  the  Me- 
chanics' IntiittUej  which  has  a  large  hall,  and  is  the  domicile  of  one  of  the 
city  schools.  The  reading-room  is  supplied  with  Canadian  and  British 
newspapers,  and  the  library  contains  about  7,000  volumes  (open  from  2^  to 
6  o'clock).  From  this  point  roads  descend  to  the  water-side  and  to  the 
railway  station  in  the  Valley. 

The  Roman  Catholic  *  Cathedral  is  situated  on  Waterloo  St.,  and  is 
the  largest  church  in  the  Province.  It  is  constructed  of  marble  and  sand- 
stone, in  pointed  architecture,  and  has  a  tall  and  graceful  stone  spire. 
The  interior  Ss  in  a  style  of  the  severest  simplicity,  the  Gothic  arches  of 
the  clere-story  being  supported  on  plain  and  massive  piers.  The  windows 
are  of  stained  glass,  and  are  very  brilliant  and  rich.  The  chancel  and 
transept  windows  are  large  and  of  fine  design ;  a  rose  window  is  placed  over 
the  organ-lofl;  and  the  side  windows  represent  Saints  Bernard,  Dominic, 
Ambrose,  Jerome,  Mark,  Matthew,  Andrew,  Benedict,  Francis,  John, 
Luke,  Augustine,  and  Gregory.  The  building  is  200  ft.  long,  and  110  ft. 
wide  at  the  transepts.  The  Bishop's  Palace  is  the  fine  sandstone  building 
towards  Clifi*  St.,  beyond  which  is  the  extensive  building  of  the  Orphan 
Asylum,  fronting  on  Cliff  St.  On  the  other  sid^  of  the  Cathedral  is  the 
plain  brick  building  of  the  Nunnery.  The  visitor  should  notice,  over  the 
Cathedral  portal  adjacent  to  the  Nunnery,  the  great  marble  bas-relief  of 
the  Last  Supper  (after  Leonardo  Da  Vinci's  painting  at  Milan). 

From  this  point  Waterloo  St.  descends  to  the  Marsh  Bridge,  at  the  head 
of  Courtenay  Bay.  By  ascending  Clifi"  St.  for  a  short  distance,  a  point 
may  be  reached  from  which  are  seen  the  Valley,  with  its  churches  and 
streets,  and  the  embowered  villas  on  Portland  Heights,  over  which  Reed's 
Castle  is  prominent. 

The  General  Public  Hospital  is  situated  on  a  bold  rocky  knoll  which 
overlooks  the  Marsh  Valley,  and  is  entered  from  Waterloo  St.  It  consists 
of  a  large  brick  building  with  one  wing,  and  accommodates  80  patients. 
The  structure  pertains  to  the  city,  and  was  erected  in  1866  at  a  cost  of 
$  64,000.  Directly  below  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  knoll  on  which  it  is 
built  is  the  broad  Marsh,  covered  with  houses,  and  extending  on  the  r. 
to  Courtenay  Bay.  The  geologists  entertain  a  plausible  theory  that  in 
remote  ages  the  St.  John  River  flowed  down  this  valley  from  the  Kenne- 
becasis  to  the  sea,  until 'finally  the  present  channel  through  the  Narrows 
was  opened  by  some  oonvulsion  of  nature. 


i 

8 


A 
i 


\ 


ST.  JOHN. 


H<mU  L      19 


That  suburb  which  Is  known  as  the  Valley  lies  between  the  rooky  hills 
of  the  city  proper  and  the  line  of  the  Portland  Heights.  It  is  reached 
from  King  Square  by  Charlotte  and  Cobourg  Sts.,  and  contains  the  tracks 
and  station  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  The  most  prominent  object  in 
the  Valley  is  St.  Paufs  Church  (Episcopal),  a  graceful  wooden  edifice  with 
transeptSf  a  clere-story,  and  a  tall  spire.  The  windows  are  of  stained  glass. 
The  brick  church  of  St.  Stephen  and  the  white  Zion  Church  (Reformed 
Episcopal)  are  also  situated  in  the  Valley,  and  the  road  to  Lily  Lake  di- 
verges to  the  r.  from  the  latter.  Farther  to  the  £.,  on  the  City  Road,  is 
the  Skating  Rinky  a  round  wooden  building-,  160  ft.  in  diameter,  covered 
with  a  domed  roof.  This  is  the  favorite  winter  resort  of  the  aristocracy 
of  St.  John,  and  strangers  can  gain  admission  only  by  introduction  from 
one  of  the  directors. 

The  site  of  St.  John  -mna  the  Menagtoes  of  accient  Miemae  tradition,  where  the 
divine  Glooscap  once  had  his  home.  Hence,  during  his  absence,  his  attendants 
were  carried  away  by  a  powerflil  evil  magician,  who  tied  with  them  to  Grand  Bfanan, 
Cape  Breton,  and  Newfoundiimd,  where  he  was  pursued  by  Qlootieap,  who  rode 
much  of  the  way  on  the  backs  of  whales  which  •  he  called  in  from  tlie  deep  sea. 
Fusing  through  Cape  Breton,  he  at  length  reached  the  daric  Newfoundland  shores, 
where  he  assumed  such  a  stature  that  the  clouds  rolled  about  his  head.  The  evil- 
doing  wixard  was  soon  found  and  put  to  death  and  the  servants  of  Glooscap  were 
setftee. 

The  site  of  St.  John  was  discover<sd  by  Ghamplidn  and  De  Monts,  on  St.  Jolin's 
Day  (June  24),  1604,  but  was  not  otMsupied  for  90  years  after. 

Claude  de  la  Tour,  a  Huguenot  uoble,  was  one  of  the  earliest  of  the  French  adven- 
turers in  this  n^on,  and  received  a  grant  of  all  Acadia  firom  Charles  I.  of  England. 
After  his  repulse  and  humiliation  (see  Koute  25),  the  French  government  divided 
Acadia  into  three  provinces,  placing  there  as  governors,  M.  Denys,  Razilly,  and  the 

Soung  and  chivalrous  Charles  de  St,  Estienne,  Lord  of  La  Tour  (son  of  Claude), 
lenys  contented  himself  with  the  ocean-fisheries  flrom  Canso  and  Cape  Breton. 
BaxiUy  soon  died,  leaving  his  domain  to  his  kinsman  Charles  de  Menou,Sieurd'Aul- 
nay  Chamisay,  who  was  also  related  to  Cardinal  Richelieu.  D'Aulnay  and  La  Tour 
began  to  quarrel  about  the  boundaries  of  their  jurisdictions,  and  the  former  em- 

Sloyed  a  powerful  influence  at  the  Court  of  Frai^ce  to  aid  his  cause.  Louis  XIIL 
nally  omered  him  to  carry  La  Tour  to  France.  Ui  chains,  and  opcii  war  ensued 
between  these  patrician  adventurers.  La  Tour  had  erected  a  fort  at  St.  John  in 
1634,  whence  he  carried  on  a  lucrative  fUr-trade  with  the  Indians.  In  1648  this 
stronghold  was  attacked  by  D'Aulnay  with  six  voasels,  but  La  Tour  escaped  on  the 
ship  CUnunt,  leaving  his  garrison  to  hold  the  wortu.  He  entered  Boston  Karltor 
with  140  Huguenots  of  Ia  Roohelle,  and  sought  aid  from  Massachusettb  against  the 
Catholic  forces  which  were  besieging  him.  The  austere  Puritans  referred  to  the 
Bible  to  see  if  they  could  find  any  precedent  for  Kuch  action,  but  found  no  certain 
response  from  that  oracle.  "On  the  one  hand,  it  was  s^d  wat  the  speech  of  tVo 
Prophet  to  Jehoshaphat,  in  2d  Chronicles  xiz.  2,  and  the  'portion  of  Solomon's 
Proverbs  contained  in  chap,  zxvi,  17th  verse,  not  only  discharged  thirni  from  any 
obligation,  but  actually  forbade  them  to  assist  La  Tour;  while,  on  the  other  hand, 
it  was  agreed  that  it  was  as  lawflil  for  them  to  give  him  succor  as  it  was  for  Joshua 
to  aid  the  Gibeonites  against  the  rest  of  the  Canaanites,  or  for  Jehoshaphat  to  aid 
Jehoram  against  Moab,  in  which  expedition  Elishawas  present,  and  did  not  reprove 
the  King  of  Judah."  But  when  they  had  assured  themselves  that  it  would  bo 
allowable  fi)r  them  to  aid  the  distressed  nobleman,  they  sent  such  a  fleet  that  D'Aul- 
nay's  forces  were  quickly  scattered,  and  the  siege  was  raised.  Two  years  later, 
while  La  Tour  was  absent,  D'Aulnay  again  attacked  the  fort,  but  was  handsomely 
repulsed  (with  a  loss  of  88  men)  by  the  little  garrison,  headed  by  Madame  La  Tour. 
Some  months  later  he  returned,  and  opened  a  regular  siege  on  the  landward  side 
(the  fort  was  in  Carleton,  near  Navj  Island).  After  three  days  of  fighting  a  treach- 
erous Swiss  sentry  admitted  the  eoemy  into  the  works ;  and  even  then  Bladame  La 
Tour  led  her  troops  so  gallantly  f>hat  the  vtotor  gave  her  her  own  terms.    These 


20     Jlouui, 


ST.  jonx 


tanns,  however,  mn  ihamefally  rlolated,  and  the  garrison  wu  masnexed  hefbre 
hra  flice.  Three  weeks  afterward,  she  died  of  a  broken  heart.  La  Tour  came  back 
to  St.  John  some  years  later,  and  found  that  D'Aulnay  was  dead,  whereupon  he 
efl^tually  recaptured  his  old  domain  by  marrving  the  widow  of  the  conqueror 
(1668).  D'Aulnay  died  ir  1650,  having  spent  800,000  livres  in  Acadia,  and  built  6 
fortresses,  2  seminaries,  and  several  churches.  He  had  several  sons,  all  of  whom 
entered  the  French  army,  and  were  slain  in  the  service. 

In  1690  a  sharp  engagement  took  place  in  St.  John  harbor,  between  the  French 
firigate  Union  and  two  English  vessels.  The  former  had  entered  the  harbor  bearing 
the  Chevalier  de  VUlebon,  and  was  taken  at  a  disadvantage.  After  a  severe  cannon- 
ade, the  Union  hauled  down  her  colors.  Villebon  soon  descended  the  river  with 
a  party  of  Indians  and  attacked  the  ships,  but  without  success.  In  1^.  while  the 
Chevalier  de  Yillebon  governed  Acadia  from  the  upper  St.  John  and  hurled  de- 
structive Indian  bands  upon  New  England,  Massachusetts  sent  three  men-of-war  to 
blockade  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  cut  on  his  supplies.  They  were  soon  attacked 
by  D^Iberville's  French  fiigates,  and  made  a  desperate  resistance.  But  the  Neto- 
port,  24,  was  unable  to  with8tan(#  the  heavy  fire  of  the  Profond,  and  soon  lay  dis- 
masted and  helpless.  After  her  surrender  the  other  American  vessels  escaped 
under  cover  of  a  thick  fog.  A  new  fleet  from  Boston  soon  afterwards  overhauled 
the  French  frigates,  cruising  between  Mount  Desert  and  St.  John,  and  captured 
the  Profond,  with  M.  de  Tillebon,  4.he  Governor  -)f  Acadia,  on  b<Mird.  In  1701  the 
fort  of  St.  John  was  dismantled  by  Brouillan ;  but  in  1708  it  was  rebuilt,  and  had 
4  bastions  and  24  pieces  of  artillery. 

In  July,  1749,  H.  B.  M.  sloop-of-war  Albany  entered  the  harbor  and  drove  away 
the  French  troops,  lowering  also  the  standard  of  France.  The  frigates  Hound  and 
York  had  a  skirmish  with  the  French  here  in  1760,  and  were  ordered  out  of  the 
port  by  Boishdbert,  the  commandant  of  the  fort.  In  1766,  four  British  war-vessels 
entered  the  harbor,  and  the  French  garrison  demolished  the  fort,  blew  up  the  mag- 
aiine,  and  retreattid  into  the  country.  In  1768  Fort  La  Tour  was  still  garrisoned 
by  French  soldiers,  but,  after  a  short  siege  by  an  Anglo-American  force,  the  post 
was  surrendeivd  at  discretion.  Two  years  later,  the  place  was  visited  by  James 
Simonds,  an  adventurous  New-Englander,  who  was,  however,  Foon  driven  away  by 
the  Indians,  '^  Catholics  and  allies  of  France.'-  In  1764  he  returned  with  a  party 
of  MassachuEelts  fishermen,  and  settled  on  the  present  site  of  the  city,  erecting  de- 
fensive works  ou  Portland  Heights,  under  the  name  of  Fort  Howe.  In  1776  a  naval 
expedition  of  Americans  from  Machias  entered  the  harbor  and  destroyed  the  old 
French  fortifications  (then  called  Fort  Frederick),  completing  their  work  by  plun- 
dering and  bombarding  the  village.  May  18, 1788,  a  British  fleet  arrived  in  the 
port  bringing  6,000  of  the  self-styled  ''United  Empire  Loyalists,"  Americans  who 
were  loyal  to  King  George  and  could  not  or  would  not  remain  in  the  new  Republic 
of  the  United  States.  From  this  day  may  be  dated  the  growth  of  the  city  of  St. 
John. 

New  Brunswick  was  set  off  firom  Nova  Scotia  as  a  separate  Province  the  next 
Tear,  and  in  1786  its  first  Legislative  Assembly  was  convened  here.  In  1787 
Trinity  Church  was  founded ;  in  1788  harbor-lights  were  established  on  Partridge 
Islwd,  and  in  1799  the  Royal  Gazette  was  started.  In  1887  one  third  of  the  com- 
mercial portion  of  the  city  was  burned,  involving  a  loss  of  £  260,000.  During  the 
boundfury  dispute  with  the  State  of  Maine  (1839-42)  the  citizens  were  all  enrolled 
and  drilled  in  military  exercises,  in  preparation  for  a  war  on  the  borders.  Large 
fortunes  were  made  by  the  merchants  during  the  Crimean  war,  when  the  British 
timber-market,  which  had  depended  largely  on  the  Baltic  ports  for  its  supply,  was 
by  their  closing  fon  ad  to  draw  heavily  on  the  American  Provinces.  The  last  his- 
toric event  at  St.  Jobs  was  its  occupation,  in  the  winter  of  1861,  by  several  of  the 
choicest  regiments  of  vhe  British  army,  among  which  were  the  Grenadier  Guards, 
the  Scotch  Fusiliero,  and  other  elite  corps.  After  the  peacefhl  solution  of  the  Trent 
aSMt  this  formidable  garrison  was  removed,  and  the  city  has  since  been  left  to 
prosper  in  the  arts  of  peace  and  industry. 

"  Here  is  picturesque  St.  John,  with  its  couple  of  centuries  of  history  and  tradi- 
tion, its  commerces,  its  enterprise  felt  all  along  the  coast  and  through  the  settle- 
ments of  the  territory  to  the  northeast,  with  its  no  doubt  charming  society  and 
solid  English  culture ;  and  the  summer  tourist,  in  an  idle  mood  regarding  it  for 
a  day,  says  it  is  naught."    (Wabner's  Baddeck.) 

The  great  exodus  to  the  United  States  has  recently  seriously  reduced  the  popula- 
tion of  St.  John,  and  all  the  Eastern  Provinces.  In  October,  1888,  St.  John  cele- 
brates its  centennial  anniversary,  by  a  grand  Dominion-of-Canada  Exhibition. 


ST.  JOHN. 


RouU  L      21 


St.  John.    1647. 


waa 
Phis- 
the 
irda, 
ent 
to 

idi. 
^ttie- 
and 
for 


**To  the  wtndf  give  our  burner! 

Beer  homeward  again ! " 
Cried  the  Lord  of  Acadin, 

Cried  Charlea  of  Eatlenne  ; 
Tioiii  the  prow  of  his  iliaUop 

He  frazed,  ai  the  sun, 
Front  its  bed  in  the  ocean. 

Streamed  up  the  St  Jolrn. 

O'er  tlie  blue  western  waters 

That  shallop  had  passed. 
Where  the  mists  of  Penobscot 

Clung  damp  on  her  mast. 
8t  Savior  had  loolied 

On  the  heretic  sail, 
As  the  conn  of  the  Ungaenot 

Rose  on  the  gale. 

The  pale,  ghostly  fathers 

Kemembered  her  well, 
Ani  had  cursed  her  while  pMsing, 

With  taper  and  bell, 
But  the  men  of  Monhe(-an, 

Of  Papists  abhorred. 
Had  welcomed  and  feajted 

The  heretic  Lord. 

They  had  loaded  his  shallop 

With  dun-fish  and  ball, 
With  stores  for  his  larder. 

And  steel  for  his  wall. 
Pemeqnid,  from  her  bastions 

And  turrets  of  stone, 
Had  welcomed  his  coming 

With  banner  and  gun. 

And  the  prayers  of  the  elders 

Had  followed  his  way, 
As  homeward  he  Rlided 

Down  Pentecost  Bay. 
O^ell  sped  La  Tour  l 

For,  in  peril  and  pain, 
His  lady  icept  watch 

For  his  coming  again. 

O'er  the  Isle  of  the  Pheasant 

The  morning  sun  shone. 
On  the  plane-trees  which  shaded 

The  shores  of  St.  John. 
**  Now  why  from  yon  battlements 

Speaks  not  my  love? 
why  waves  there  no  banner 

My  fortress  above  ?  " 

Dark  and  wild,  from  his  deck 

St.  Estienne  gazed  about, 
On  fire-wasted  dwellings, 

And  silent  redoubt ; 
From  the  low  shattered  walle 

Which  the  flame  had  o'errun, 
There  floated  no  banner. 

There  thundered  no  gun. 

But  beneath  the  low  arch 

Of  its  doorway  there  stood 
A  pale  priest  of  Rome, 

In  his  cloak  and  hia  hood. 
With  the  bound  of  a  lion 

La  Tour  sprang  to  Innd, 
On  the  throat  of  the  Papist 

He  fastened  his  hand. 

**  Speak,  son  of  the  Woman 

Of  scarlet  and  sin  I 
What  wolf  has  been  prowling 

My  castle  within  ?  ** 
From  the  grasp  of  the  soldier 

The  Jesuit  broke. 
Half  in  scorn,  half  la  sorrow, 

He  smiled  as  he  spoke : 


I  "  No  wolf.  Lord  of  Estleune, 

Has  ravaged  thy  hall. 
But  thy  red-handed  rivaL 

With  fire,  steel,  and  baUl 
On  an  errand  of  mercy 

I  hitherward  came. 
While  the  walls  of  thy  eastl* 

Yet  spouted  with  flame. 

"  Pentagoet's  dark  vessels 

Were  moored  in  the  Iwy, 
Qrim  sea-lions,  roaring 

Aloud  for  their  prcjrl " 
"  But  what  of  my  lady  ?  " 

Cried  Charles  of  Estienne. 
**  On  the  shot-crumbled  turret 

Thy  lady  was  seen : 

**  Half  vellod  in  the  smoke-cloud. 

Her  hand  grasped  thy  pennon* 
While  her  dark  tresses  swayed 

In  the  hot  breath  of  cannon! 
But  woe  to  the  heretic, 

Evermore  woe ! 
When  the  son  of  the  church 

And  the  cross  Is  his  foe! 

'«In  the  track  of  the  shell, 

In  the  path  of  the  ball, 
Pentagoet  swept  over 

The  breach  of  the  wall! 
Steel  to  steel,  gun  to  ftun. 

One  moment,  —  and  then  ' 
Alone  stood  the  victor. 

Alone  with  his  men! 

"  Of  its  sturdy  defenders, 

Thy  lady  alone 
Saw  the  cross-bluzoned  banner 

Float  over  St.  John." 
••  Let  the  dastard  look  to  it  I " 

Cried  fiery  Estienne, 
"Were  D'Aulnay  King  Lonls, 

I'dfreehero«tdnI" 

"Ala*  for  thy  lady  1 

No  service  from  thee 
Is  needed  by  her 

Whom  the  Lord  hath  set  free : 
Nine  days,  in  stem  silence. 

Her  thraldom  she  bore. 
But  the  tenth  morning  came. 

And  Death  opened  Eer  door  I " 

As  if  suddenly  smitten. 

La  Tour  staggered  back ; 
His  hand  grasped  his  sword-hilt, 

His  forehead  grew  black. 
He  sprang  on  the  deck 

Of  his  shallop  again. 
"We  cruise  now  xOr  vengeance ! 

Give  way  I "  cried  Estienne. 

"  Massachusetts  shall  hear 

Of  the  Huguenot  s  wrong. 
And  from  island  and  creekslde 

Her  fishers  shall  throng  1 
Fentaf^oet  shall  rue 

What  his  Papists  have  done. 
When  his  nalisades  echo 

The  Puritan's  gun ! " 

O^he  loveliest  of  heavens 

Hung  tenderly  o  er  him. 
There  were  waves  in  the  sunshine. 

And  green  isles  before  him :  * 
But  a  pale  hand  was  beckoning 

The  Huguenot  on ; 
And  in  blackness  and  ashes 

Behind  wm  St.  John ! 

JOUH  O.  Whixtikb. 


22      Route  $.    THE  ENVIBONS  OF  ST.  JOHN. 


2.   The  Enyirons  of  St  John. 

*  lily  Lake  is  about  1  M.  from  King  Square,  and  is  reached  by  erogs- 
Ing  the  Valley  and  ascending  Portland  Heights.  The  road  which  turns  to 
the  r.  from  the  white  (Zion)  church  conducts  past  several  villas  and  rural 
estates.  From  its  end  a  broad  path  diverges  to  the  r.,  leading  !n  a  few 
minutes  to  the  lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  surrounded  by  high  rocky 
banks.  The  environs  are  thickly  studded  with  clumps  of  arbor-vitae  and 
evergreens,  among  which  run  devious  rambles  and  pathways.  No  houses 
or  other  signs  of  civilization  are  seen  on  the  shores,  and  the  citizens  wish 
to  preserve  this  district  in  its  primitive  beauty  by  converting  it  into  a  pub- 
lic park.  The  water  is  of  rare  pnrity,  and  was  used  for  several  years  to 
supply  the  city,  being  pumped  up  by  expensive  machinery.  This  is  a 
favorite  place  for  skating  early  in  the  season,  and  at  that  time  presents  a 
scene  of  great  activity  and  interest.  A  pleasant  pathway  leads  on  one 
side  to  the  Lily  Lake  Fallsy  which  are  attractive  in  time  of  high  water. 

The  Marsh  Boad  is  the  favorite  drive  for  the  citizens  of  St.  John,  and 
presents  a  busy  scene  on  pleasant  Sundays  and  during  the  season  of  sleigh- 
ing. It  is  broad,  firm,  and  level,  and  follows  the  (supposed)  ancient  bed 
of  the  St.  John  River.  At  1\  M.  from  the  city  the  Rural  Cemetery  is 
reached  (only  lot-owners  are  admitted  on  Sunday).  This  is  a  pleasant 
ground  occupying  about  12  acres  along  a  cluster  of  high,  rocky  knolls, 
and  its  roads  curve  gracefully  through  an  almost  unbroken  forest  of  old 
(but  small)  evergreen  trees.  The  chief  point  of  interest  is  along  Ocean 
Avenue,  where  beneath  uniform  monuments  are  buried  i.  large  number 
of  sailors.  1^  M.  beyond  the  Cemetery  the  Marsh  Road  passes  the  Three- 
Mile  House  and  Moosepath  Park^  a  half-mile  course  which  is  much  used 
for  horse-racing,  especially  during  the  month  of  August.  8  -  4  M  farther 
on  (with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  always  near  at  hand)  the  road  reaches 
the  Torrybum  House,  near  the  usual  course  for  boat-racing  on  the  broad 
Xennebecasis  Bay.  The  course  of  this  estuary  is  now  followed  for  2  M., 
with  the  high  cliff  called  the  Minister's  Face  on  the  farther  shore.  Pass- 
ing several  country-seats,  the  tourist  arrives  at  Bothesay,  prettily  situated 
on  the  Kennebecasis.  This  village  is  a  favorite  place  of  summer  residence 
for  families  from  the  city,  and  has  numerous  villas  and  picnic  grounds. 
The  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing  are  good.  Near  the  railway  station 
is  Rothesay  Hail,  a  summer  hotel,  accommodating  80-40  guests  ($8-10 
a  week).  There  are  pleasant  views  from  this  point,  including  the  broad 
and  lake-like  Kennebecasis  for  many  miles,  the  palisadei^  of  the  Minister's 
Face,  and  the  hamlet  of  Moss  Glen. 

Looh  Lomond  is  about  11  M.  N.  £.  of  St.  John,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  its  citizens.  Many  people  go  out  to  the  lake  on  Saturday  and  remain 
there  until  Monday  morning.  The  road  crosses  the  Marsh  Bridge  and 
passes  near  the  Silver  Falls,  a  pretty  cascade  on  Little  River  (whence  the 


THE  ENVIBONS  OF  ST.  JOHN.    XouU  t,      23 


city  draws  its  water  supply).  There  are  two  smalt  hotels  near  Loch 
Lomond,  of  which  Bunker's  is  at  the  lower  end  and  Dalzell's  is  8-4  M.  be- 
yond, or  near  the  head  of  the  First  Lake.  These  waters  are  much  re- 
sorted to  by  trout-fishers,  and  the  white  trout  that  are  found  near  Dalzell's 
Lake  House  are  considered  a  delicacy.  Boats  and  tackle  are  furnished 
at  the  hotels;  and  there  is  good  shooting  in  the  vicinity.  The  shores  con- 
sist, for  the  most  part,  of  low  rolling  hills,  covered  with  forests.  The  First 
Lake  is  4  x  ^  M.  in  area,  and  is  connected  by  a  short  stream  with  the 
Second  Lake,  which  is  nearly  2  M.  long,  and  very  narrow.  The  Third 
Lake  is  smaller  than  either  of  the  others. 

"  An  elevated  ridge  of  hard-wood  land,  over  which  the  road  passes  near  the  nait- 
rowest  part,  afforded  me  from  its  summit  a  view  of  the  lower  lake,  which  would  not 
suffer  in  comparision  with  many  either  of  our  English  or  our  Scottish  lakes.  Its 
surface  was  calm  and  still ;  beyond  it  rose  a  wooded  ridge  of  rounded  hills,  purpled 
by  the  broad-leaved  trees  which  covered  them,  and  terminated  at  the  foot  of  the 
lake  by  a  lofty,  so-called  Lion's  Back,  lower  considerably  than  Arthur's  Setit,  yet 
still  a  miniature  Ben  Lomond."  —  Prof.  Johnston. 

Ben  Lomond,  Jones,  Taylor's,  and  other  so-called  lakes  (being  large  forest-ponds) 
are  situated  in  this  neighborhood,  and  afford  better  fishing  facilities  than  the  much- 
visited  waters  of  Loch  Lomond.  Both  white  and  speckled  trout  are  caught  in  great 
numbers  fh>m  rafts  or  floats  on  these  ponds ;  and  Bunker's  or  Dalzell's  affonls  a 
favorable  headquarters  for  the  sportsman,  where  also  more  particular  information 
may  be  obtained. 

The  Penitentiary  is  a  granite  building  120  ft.  long,  situated  in  an  in- 
walled  tract  of  18  acres,  on  the  farther  side  of  Courtenay  Bay.  The  Poor 
Home  is  a  spacious  brick  building  in  the  same  neighborhood.  The  road 
that  passes  these  institutions  is  prolonged  as  far  as  Mispeck,  traversing  a 
diversified  country,  and  at  times  affording  pretty  views  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy.    Mispeck  is  a  small  marine  hamlet,  10  M.  from  St.  John. 

4  M.  N.  of  the  city  is  the  estate  of  the  Highland  Park  Company,  an  asso- 
ciation of  citizens  who  have  united  for  the  purpose  of  securing  rural  homes 
in  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  region.  There  are  three  lakes  on  the  tract 
(which  includes  600  acres),  the  chief  of  which  is  Howe's  Lake,  a  small  bat 
pretty  forest-pond. 

The  *  Suspension  Bridge  is  about  1^  M.  from  King  Square,  and  most 
of  the  distance  may  be  traversed  by  omnibuses,  passing  through  the  city 
of  Portland  and  under  Fort  Howe  Hill  (whence  a  good  view  of  the  city  is 
afforded).  The  bridge  crosses  the  rocky  gorge  into  which  the  wide  waters 
of  the  St.  John  River  are  compressed,  at  a  height  of  nearly  100  ft.  above 
low  water.  The  rush  of  the  upward  tide,  and  the  falls  which  become 
visible  at  low  tide,  fill  the  stream  with  seething  eddies  and  whirls  and 
render  navigation  impossible.  At  a  certain  stage  of  the  flood-tide,  and  for 
a  few  minutes  only,  this  gorge  may  be  passed  by  vessels  and  rails. 

The  St.  John  River  is  over  450  M.  long,  and,  with  its  many  tributaries,  drains  a 
vast  extent  of  country.  Tet,  at  this  point,  where  its  waters  are  emptied  into  the 
harbor,  the  outlet  of  the  river  is  narrowed  to  a  channel  which  is  in  places  but  450 
ft.  wide,  with  cliffs  of  limestone  100  ft.  high  hemming  it  in  on  either  side.  The  stream 
rushes  through  this  narrow  pass  with  great  impetuosity,  and  its  course  is  farther 
disturbed  by  several  rocky  islets.    The  tides  in  the  harbor  rise  to  a  height  of  22  -  26 


24      RouU  t.    THE  ENVIRONS  OF  ST.  JOHN. 


ft. ,  and  nufi  up  the  riTer  with  inch  force  m  to  overflpw  the  fklls  and  produee  lerel 
water  at  flood-tide.  The  bridge  wa*  built  in  1862  by  an  American  engineer,  and  cost 
•  80,000.  It  is  640  ft.  long  and  containa  670  M.  of  wire,  supported  on  4  slender  but 
solid  towers.  ^ 

Over  the  head  of  the  bridge,  on  the  Carleton  shore,  is  the  Provincial 
Lunatic  Asylum^  an  extensive  brick  building  with  long  wings,  situated  in 
pleasant  grounds.  Its  elevated  situation  renders  it  a  prominent  object  in 
approaching  the  city  from  almost  any  direction.  The  building  was  erected 
in  1848,  and  accommodates  200  patients.  From  this  vicinity,  or  from  the 
bridge,  are  seen  the  busy  manufacturing  villages  about  Indiantown  and 
Point  Pleasant,  most  of  which  are  engaged  in  the  lumber  business. 

On  the  summit  of  the  highest  hill  in  Carleton  is  a  venerable  and  pic- 
turesque stone  tower,  which  gives  an  antique  and  feudal  air  to  the  land- 
scape. It  is  known  as  the  Martello  Tower,  and  was  built  for  a  harbor- 
defence  at  the  time  when  this  peculiar  kind  of  fortification  was  favored 
by  the  British  War  Office.  Many  of  these  works  may  be  seen  along  the 
shores  of  the  British  Isles,  but  they  are  now  used  (if  used  at  all)  only  Us 
coast-guard  stations.  The  tower  in  Carleton  is  under  the  charge  of  a  sub« 
officer,  and  near  by  are  seen  the  remains  of  a  hill-battery,  with  a  few  old 
guns  still  in  position.  The  *  view  from  this  point  is  broad  and  beautiful, 
including  St.  John,  with  the  spires  of  Trinity  and  the  Cathedral  most 
prominent,  Portland  and  the  Fort  Howe  Hill,  the  wharves  of  Carleton  and  its 
pretty  churches,  the  harbor  and  shipping,  the  broad  Bay  of  Fundy,  ex- 
tending to  the  horizon,  and  in  the  S.  the  blue  shores  of  Nova  Scotia  (the 
North  Mt.),  with  the  deep  gap  at  the  entrance  to  the  Annapolis  Basin, 
called  the  Digby  Gut. 

The  streets  of  Carleton  are  as  yet  in  a  transition  state,  and  do  not  invite 
a  long  sojourn.  On  the  hill  near  the  Martello  Tower  is  the  tall  and  grace- 
ful Church  of  the  Assumption,  with  pleasant  grounds,  in  which  is  the 
fine  building  of  the  presbytery.  Below  this  point  is  the  Convent  of  St. 
Vincent,  S.  of  which  is  seen  the  spire  of  St.  Jude's  Episcopal  Church. 

The  Fern  Ledges  are  about  1  M.  from  Carleton,  on  the  shore,  and  are  much 
visited  by  geologists.  They  consist  of  an  erratic  fragment  of  the  Ola  Red  Sandstone 
epoch,  and  are  covered  with  sea-weed  and  limpets.  On  clearing  away  the  weeds  and 
breaking  the  rock,  the  most  beautiful  impressions  of  ferns  and  other  cryptogamous 
plants  are  found. 

The  Mahogany  ^  Boad  affords  a  fine  drive  along  the  Bay  shore,  with  a 
succession  of  broad  marine  views.  It  is  gained  by  crossing  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  and  passing  the  Insane  Asylum.  About  4  M.  from  the  city  is 
the  Four-Mile  House^  a  favorite  objective  point  for  drives.  The  road  is 
often  followed  as  far  as  Spruce  Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  water  6  M.  long,  and 
situated  about  7  M.  from  St.  John.  Perch  are  found  here  in  great  num- 
bers, but  the  facilities  for  fishing  are  not  good.  The  water  supply  of  the 
suburb  of  Carleton  is  drawn  from  this  lake. 

*  Mahogany,  a  popular  adaptation  of  tlie  Indian  word  McmawagoaUh,  applied  to  tha 
aeigbboiiiig  bay. 


CAMPOBELLO. 


RouU  S.     25 


th  a 
pen- 
ty  is 
id  is 

and 
lum- 

the 


;   Slusqaash,  9;  Li< -:kcuter,  16; 
George,  47  ;  Bonny    vUTer,  68 ; 


8.  St  John  to  Saftport  and  St  Stephen. — FaMamaqooddy 

Bay. 

The  eommodious  Tessels  of  the  Tnternatiwnal  Steamahip  Company  leave  theBeed"! 
Point  Wharf,  at  St.  John,  every  Monday.  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  at  8  a.  m.,  and 
reach  Eaetport  (6'J  M.  diiitant)  a  little  alter  noon.  A  connection  i8  made  there  with 
a  smaller  steamboat,  which  ascenda  PatBamaquoddy  Bay  and  the  St.  Croix  lliver  to 
St.  Andrews  and  St  Stephen. 

The  Grand  Southern  Bailway  runs  from  St.  John  to  St.  Stephen,  80  M. 
W.,  and  it  is  hoped  that  it  may  be  extended  down  through  Maine  to  Ban- 
gor, crossing  the  frontier  at  Calais,  and  running  around  throiigh  the  coast 
counties.  It  is  not  yet  perfect  in  route  and  equipment,  and  is  content  with 
running  in  a  very  leisurely  way  down  this  picturesque  and  thinly  settled 
coast.  The  localities  which  it  approaches  are  more  particularly  described 
on  pages  31,  32,  33,  34,  and  35  of  this  book. 

Stations.  —  St.  John  to  Spruce  Lake,  7  M. 
Lepreauz,  24;  New  River,  29;  Fennfield,  86;  St. 
Dyer's,  62 ;  Oak  Bay,  67  ;  St.  Stephen,  82. 

After  leaving  St.  John,  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  int.:  the  Bay  of  Fur;  ij, 
and  soon  passes  Split  Bock,  and  stretches  across  to  roii  t  Lepreau.  Ihe 
peculiarities  of  the  coast,  which  is  always  visible  (in  clear  weather)  on  the 
N.,  are  spoken  of  in  Route  5,  and  are  thus  epitomized  by  Mr.  Warner : 
"  A  pretty  bay  now  and  then,  a  rocky  cove  with  sctint  foliage,  a  light- 
house, a  rude  cabin,  a  level  land,  monotonous  and  without  noble  forests, — 
this  was  "New  Brunswick  as  we  coasted  along  it  under  the  most  favorable 
circumstances." 

After  passing  the  iron-bound  islets  called  the  Wolves  (where  the  New 
England  was  wrecked  in  1872),  the  steamer  runs  in  towards  the  West 
IsleSj  whose  knob-like  hills  rise  boldly  from  the  blue  waters.  Sometimes 
she  meets,  in  these  outer  passages,  great  fleets  of  fishing-boats,  either 
drifting  over  schools  of  fish,  or,  with  th*^'r  •?  hite  and  red  sails  stretched, 
pursuing  their  prey.  If  such  a  meeting  occurs  during  one  of  the  heavy 
fogs  which  so  often  visit  this  coast,  a  wonderfully  weird  effect  is  'caused 
by  the  sudden  emergence  and  disappearance  of  the  boats  in  the  dense 
white  clouds. 

Soon  after  passing  the  White  Horse  islet,  the  steamer  enters  the  Eastern 
Passage,  and  runs  to  the  S.  W.  into  Friar's  Road.  On  the  r.  is  Deer 
Ide,  a  rugged  island,  7  M.  long  by  3  M.  wide,  with  a  poor  soil  and  no 
good  harbors.  There  are  about  1,600  inhabitants  on  this  island,  and  it  is 
surrounded  by  an  archipelago  of  isolated  rocky  peaks.  The  shores  attain 
an  elevation  of  800  ft.,  and  from  some  of  the  higher  hills  are  gained  beau- 
tiful panoramic  views  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  on  one  side,  and  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  on  the  other. 

2  • 


26     Route  S. 


EASTPORT. 


On  the  other  side  are  the  grandly  picturesque  headlands  of  Campohello, 
tlie  island  which  has  recently  become  so  well  known  as  an  American  sum- 
mer-resort, particularly  affected  by  the  best  people  of  Boston  and  Cam- 
bridge. A  more  thorough  account  of  this  locality  is  found  on  page  30  a, 
hereinafter.        . . 


The  earliest  settlement  on  the  Bay  was  established  about  1770,  by  the  Cainpo« 
bello  Company,  and  vraa  located  at  Harbor  dc  Lute,  on  Gampobcllo  Island  It  was 
named  Warrington,  but  the  Welclipool  settlement  has  long  since  Eur|iasfed  it.  The 
Isloud  waB  for  some  time  the  property  of  Capt.  Owen,  of  the  Royal  Navy,  to  whom 
the  residents  paid  tenants'  dues.  At  cert&in  stages  of  the  tide,  liof  tport  can  only 
be  approached  by  passing  around  Campobello,  concerning  which  Mr.  Warner  in- 
dulges in  the  following  pleasantry :  '*  The  possession  by  the  British  of  the  inland  of 
Campobello  is  an  insufferable  menace  and  impertinence.  I  write  with  a  full  knowl- 
edge of  what  war  is.  We  ought  to  instantly  dislodge  the  British  from  Campobello. 
It  entirely  shuts  up  and  commands  our* harbor,  —  one  of  our  chief  Eastern  har- 
bors and  war  stations,  where  we  keep  a  flag  and  cannon  and  some  soldiers,  and 
where  the  customs  officers  look  out  for  smuggling.  There  is  no  way  to  get  into  our 
own  harbor,  except  in  faTorable  circumstances  of  the  tide,  without  begging  the 
courtesy  of  a  passage  through  British  waters.  Why  is  England  permitted  to  stretch 
along  down  our  coast  in  this  straggling:  and  inquieitivc  manner  ?  She  might  almost 
as  well  own  Long  Island.  It  was  impossible  to  prevent  our  checks  mantling  with 
Bhame  as  we  thought  of  this,  and  saw  ourselves,  free  American  citizens,  landlocked 
by  alien  soil  in  our  own  harbor  We  ought  to  have  war,  if  war  is  necessary  to  pos- 
sess Campobello  and  Deer  Islands,  or  else  we  ought  to  give  the  British  Eastport.  I 
am  not  sure  but  the  latter  would  be  the  better  course."  ,,     .  > 


Eastport  {*Pa8samaquoddy  House,  $2.&0  a  day;  Island  House,  $2)  is 
an  American  bordcr'-town,  on  the  coast  of  Maine,  and  has  4,200  inhabi- 
tants and  8  churches.  It  is  built  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  at  the  E.  end  of 
Moose  Island,  in  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  and  is  engaged  in  the  fisheries  and 
the  coasting-trade.  Over  the  village  arc  the  ramparts  of  Fort  Sullivan, 
a  garrisoned  post  of  the  United  States,  commanding  the  harbor  with  its 
artillery.  Eastport  is  much  visited  in  summer  for  the  sake  of  the  salt- 
water fishing  and  the  unique  marine  scenery  in  the  vicinity,  and  has  sev- 
eral reputable  boarding-houses.  It  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a 
bridge,  over  which  lies  the  road  to  the  Indian  village.  Eastport  is  the 
most  convenient  point  from  which  to  reach  Campobello,  Grand  lilannn 
(see  Route  4),  and  the  adjacent  islands.  A  steam-ferry  runs  hence  in  8  M. 
to  Lubeo  {Lube..  House,  Cohscooh  Hotel),  a  picturesque  marine  village  to- 
wards Quoduy  Head,  with  advantages  for  summer  residents.  This  pleasant 
little  place  is  decaying  slowly,  having  lost  over  400  inhabitants  between 
1860  and  1870.  The  present  population  is  a  little  over  2,000.  Lubec  is 
1  M.  farther  E.  than  Eastport,  and  is  therefore  the  easternmost  town  of 
the  United  States.  The  purple  cliffs  of  Grand  Manan  are  seen  from 
Quoddy  Head. 


EASTPORT. 


JlotUe  8.      27 


>l 


ri 


In  1684  the  PMsuaaqtioddy  fatlands  were  granted  by  the  Khig  of  France  to  Jean 
Barreau  de  St.  Aubin.  In  the  summer  of  1704  the  few  French  settlers  about  Pas8a» 
maquoddy  Bay  were  plundered  by  an  expedition  under  Col.  Church,  consisting  of 
600  Massachusetts  soldiers,  escorted  by  the  men-of-war  Jersey^  48.  and  Gosport,  S2. 
They  ascended  the  St.  Croix  as  for  as  the  head  of  navigation,  then  returned  and 
crossed  the  bay  to  ravage  the  Minas  settlements.  Tbey  visited  Moose  Island  and 
the  adjacent  main,  and  carried  off  all  the  settlers  as  prisoners.  Eighteen  years  later 
a  Boston  ship  was  captured  by  the  Indians  among  these  islands,  but  was  retaken  by 
its  crew  when  a  fidr  wind  arose.  In  1744  Massachusetts  declared  war  against  the 
Indians  on  this  bay  and  on  the  St.  John  Uiver ;  and  in  1760  the  tribes  sued  for 

Gace,  sending  hostages  to  Boston.  In  1734  Gov.  Belcher  (of  Mass.)  visited  the 
y,  and  in  1760  and  1762  its  shores  and  islands  were  regularly  surveyed. 

During  the  War  of  the  Revolution  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians  were  loyal  to 
the  United  States,  and  declined  all  offers  from  the  British  agents.  The  boundary 
question  began  to  assume  great  importance  after  the  close  of  the  war.  The  treaty 
stipulated  that  the  St.  Croix  River  should  form  the  frontier ;  but  Massachusetts, 
supported  by  the  Indians,  claimed  that  the  Mugaguadavic  was  the  true  St  Croix ; 
while  Great  Britain  asserted  and  proved  that  the  outlet  of  the  Schoodic  Lakes  was 
the  veritable  river.  The  Islands  were  surrendered  to  Britain ;  but  Moose,  Dudley, 
and  Frederick  Islands  were  restored  to  the  United  States  in  1818. 

Eastport  was  founded  about  1784,  by  fishermen  from  the  coast  of  Essex  County, 
Mass.,  who  settled  here  on  account  of  the  facilities  for  catching  and  curing  fish.  In 
1808  the  walls  of  Fort  Sullivan  were  raised,  and  a  detachment  of  tmops  was  sta* 
tio  ;!^d  ther.'i.  In  1813  the  valuable  British  vessel,  the  Eliza  Ann,  was  captured  by 
the  privateer  Timothy  Pickering  and  sent  into  Eastport.  She  was  followed  by 
H.  M.  S.  Martin,  whose  commander  demanded  her  surrender,  on  itain  of  destroying 
the  town.  The  citizens  refused  to  release  the  prize,  apd  the  Martin  opened  fire  on 
Eastport,  but  was  soon  driven  away  by  the  guns  of  the  fort.  July  11, 1814,  a  Brit- 
ish fleet  appeared  off  the  town,  and  informed  the  commander  that  if  he  did  not  haul 
down  his  flag  within  five  minutes  they  would  bombard  the  town.  The  flag  came 
down,  the  garrison  laid  down  their  arms,  and  the  hostile  fleet,  headed  by  the  Rami- 
lies,  74,  anchored  off  the  town.  British  martial  law  was  enforced  here  for  the  next 
four  years,  after  which  the  place  was  restored  to  the  United  States. 


The  river-steamboat,  in  ascending  the  bay,  runs  for  some  distance 
between  Deer  Isle  and  Moose  Island.  At  about  5  M.  from  Eastport, 
Pleasant  Point  (known  to  the  Indians  as  Sybaik)  is  seen  on  the  1.  Here 
is  the  chief  settlement  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians,  who  were  driven 
from  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews  nearly  a  century  ago,  and  received 
their  present  domain  from  the  American  government.  They  are  about  400 
in  number,  and  draw  an  annuity  and  a  school-fund  from  the  Republic. 

They  are  the  remnant  of  the  ancient  Openango  tribe  of  the  Etchemin  nation,  and 
they  cling  tenaciously  to  the  faith  delivered  unto  them  of  old  by  the  Jesuits.  Their 
church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Anne,  and  is  served  by  Indian  deacons ;  and  the  pictu- 
resque cemetery  <r  in  the  same  vicinity.  They  support  themselves  by  hunting,  fish- 
ing, and  bftjket-making,  and  their  favorite  amusement  is  dancing,  for  which  they 
have  built  a  hall.  There  are  scarcely  any  pure-blooded  Indians  here,  but  the 
adulteration  has  been  made  with  a  choicer  material  than  among  the  other  tribes, 
since  these  are  mostly  French  half-breeds,  in  distinction  from  the  negro  half-breeds 
of  the  lower  coasts.  Many  years  ago  there  was  a  controversy  about  the  chieftaincy, 
in  consequence  of  which  a  portion  of  the  tribe  seceded,  and  are  now  settled  on  the 
Schoodic  liakes. 

The  name  Passamaquoddy  is  said  to  be  derived  from  Pesmo-aeadie, "  pollock- 
place  "  Others  say  that  Quoddy  means  *'  pollock " ;  but  Father  Vetromile,  the 
scholarly  Jesuit  missionary,  claims  that  the  whole  word  is  a  corruption  of  the  Indian 
Peskamaguontik,  derived  firom  Peskadaminkkcmti,  a  term  which  signifies  '*it  goes 
tip  into  the  open  field.*' 


28      Route  4. 


GRAND  MANAN. 


As  the  bay  is  entered,  aboye  Pleasant  Point,  the  West  Isles  are  seen 
opening  on  the  r.,  displaying  a  great  variety  of  forms  and  combinations. 
(hi  the  1.  are  the  pleasant  shores  of  Perry,  and  far  across,  to  the  r.,  fvre  the 
highlands  aboat  the  Magaguadavic  River.  After  passing  Navy  Island,  the 
boat  rounds  in  at  St  Andrews. 

8tf  Andrews,  the  St.  Croix  River,  and  St.  Stephen,  see  pages  83-86. 

4.  Grand  Hanan. 

This  "  paradise  of  cliffs "  is  situated  off  Quoddy  Head,  about  7  M.  firom  the 
Maine  coast,  and  pertains  to  the  Province  of  New  PrunKwick.  It  is  easily  reached 
from  Eastport  (during  fair  winds),  with  which  it  has  a  mail  communication.  The 
summer  climate  wpuld  be  delicious  were  it  not  for  the  fogs ;  and  it  is  claimed  that 
invalids  suffering  from  gout  and  dyspepsia  receive  much  benefit  here  (very  likely 
from  the  enforced  abstinence  from  rich  food).  The  brooks  and  the  many  fresh- 
water ponds  afford  fair  trouting  and  bird-shooting,  and  a  few  deer  and  rabbits  are 
found  in  the  woods.  There  are  no  bears  nor  reptiles  on  the  island.  There  is  a 
small  inn  at  Grand  Harbor,  but  the  sojourner  will  prefer  to  get  board  in  some  of 
the  private  houses.  Neat  rooms  and  simple  &re  may  there  be  obtained  for  S4-7  a 
week. 

"  As  we  advanced,  Manan  gradually  rose  above  the  waves  and  changed  its  aspect, 
the  flat-topped  purple  wall  being  transmuted  into  brown,  rugged,  perpendicular 
cliffs,  crowned  with  dark  green  foliage.  Passing,  as  we  did,  closfe  in  by  the  extreme 
northern  point,  we  were  impressed  by  its  beauty  and  grandeur,  which  far  exceeds 
even  that  of  the  i^liffs  at  Mount  Desert. 

"  As  a  place  of  summer  resort,  Grand  Manan  is  in  some  respects  unequalled.  At 
certain  seasons  the  fog  is  abundant,  yet  tbat  can  be  endured.  Here  the  opportuni- 
ties for  recreation  are  unequalled,  and  all  persons  fond  of  grand  Eea-shore  views 
may  indulge  their  taste  without  limit.  The  people  are  invariably  kind  and  trust- 
worthy, and  American  maunei's  and  customs  prevail  to  such  an  extent  that  travel- 
lers at  once  feel  at  home."    (D£  Gosia .) 

The  island  of  Grand  Manan  is  22  M.  long  and  8-6  M.  wide,  and  lies  in 
the  mouth  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  whose  powerful  tides  sweep  impetuously 
by  its  shores.  It  has  about  2,700  inhabitants,  who  dwell  along  the  road 
which  connects  the  harbors  on  the  E.  shore,  and  are  famous  for  their  dar- 
ing and  expertness  in  the  fisheries.  They  have  10  schools,  8  churches  (5 
Free-Will  Baptist,  and  2  Church  of  England);  while  the  advantages  of 
free-trade,  insignificant  taxation,  government-built  roads,  and  complete 
self-legislation,  give  reason  for  the  apostrophe,  "  Happy  Mananites,  who, 
free  from  grinding  taxation,  now  rove  out  from  rock-bound  coves,  and 
quarry  at  will  in  the  silvery  mines  of  the  sea!  "  The  harbors  on  the  E. 
shore  afford  safe  shelter  for  small  vessels,  and  are  connected  with  the 
great  cliffs  on  the  W.  by  narrow  roads  through  the  woods.  The  fisheries 
of  cod,  herring,  and  haddock  are  very  extensive  in  this  vicinity,  and  form 
the  chief  resource  of  the  people,  who  are  distinguished  for  the  quaint  sim- 
plicity which  usually  pertains  to  small  and  insulated  maritime  commnni- 
ties.  Grand  Manan  has  been  for  many  years  a  favorite  resort  for  Amer- 
ican marine  painters,  who  find  excellent  studies  in  its  picturesque  cliffs 
and  billowy  seas.  It  was  visited  by  Champlain  in  1605,  but  was  occupied 
only  by  the  Indians  for  180  years  after.  Col.  Allan,  the  American  com- 
mander in  £.  Maine  during  the  Revolution,  held  the  island  with  his  Indian 


GRAND  MANAN. 


HouUi,      29 


sim- 

imer- 
Icliffa 
^pied 
;om- 
kdian 


anxiliaries,  bnt  it  was  finally  ceded  to  Great  Britain.  After  the  war  it 
was  settled  by  several  Loyalists  from  Massachusetts,  chief  among  whom 
was  Moses  Gerrish.  A  recent  writer  demands  that  the  island  be  fortified 
and  developed,  claiming  that  its  situation,  either  for  commerce  or  war, 
is  strategically  as  valuable  as  those  of  the  Isle  of  Man,  Guernsey,  and 
Jersey,  and  that  it  would  make  a  fine  point  of  attack  against  Portland 
and  the  coast  of  Maine. 

Grand  Harbor  is  the  chief  of  the  island  hamlets,  and  is  sitnated  on  the 
safe  and  shallow  bay  of  the  same  name.  It  has  an  Episcopal  church  of 
stone  and  two  or  three  stores,  besides  a  small  inn.  Off  shore  to  the  S.  £. 
lie  Ross,  Gheyne,  and  White  Head  Islands,  on  the  latter  of  which  Audu- 
bon studied  t  e  habits  of  the  herring-gulls,  in  1838.  To  the  E.  are  the 
rock-bound  shores  of  Nantucket  Island,  and  on  the  S.  are  the  Grand 
Ponds. 

The  South  Shore  is  reached  by  a  good  road  leading  down  from  Grand 
Harbor.  At  5  M.  distance  is  the  narrow  harbor  of  Seal  Cove,  beyond 
which  the  road  lies  nearer  to  the  sea,  affording  fine  marine  views  on  the 
1.,  including  the  Wood  Islands  and  the  Gannet  Rock  Lighthouse,  9-10 
M.  at  sea.  4  M.  beyond  Seal  Cove  the  road  reaches  Broad  Cove,  whence 
a  path  leads  across  the  downs  for  about  2  M.  to  the  high  and  ocean- 
viewing  cliffs  of  S.  W.  Head.  Among  the  rugged  and  surf-beaten  rocks 
of  this  bold  promontory  is  one  which  is  called  the  Old  Maid,  from  its 
rude  resemblance  to  a  colossal  woman.  About  the  S.  W.  Head  is  a  favor- 
ite resort  and  breeding-place  of  the  gulls,  whose  nests  are  made  in  the 
grass.  A  forest -path  leads  N.  to  Bradford's  Cove,  on  the  W.  shore,  a 
wide  bight  of  the  sea  in  which  the  ship  Mavourneen  was  wrecked. 

The  North  Shore.  The  road  from  Grand  Harbor  to  Whale  Cove  is  7-8 
M.  long,  and  is  firm  and  well-made.  14  M.  N.  of  Grand  Harbor,  Wood- 
ward's Cove  is  passed,  with  its  neat  hamlet,  4  M.  beyond  which  is  Flagg's 
Cove.  Sprague'i  Cove  is  a  pretty  fishing-hamlet  on  the  S.  side  of  Swal- 
low-Tail Head,  where  ''everything  appears  to  have  been  arranged  for 
artistic  effect.  The  old  boats,  the  tumble-down  storehouses,  the  pic- 
turesque costumes,  the  breaking  surf,  and  all  the  miscellaneous  para- 
phernalia of  such  a  place,  set  off  as  they  are  by  the  noble  backgi*ound 
of  richly-colored  cliffs,  produce  an  effect  that  is  as  rare  as  beautiful." 
Svoallow-Tail  Head  is  a  fan-shaped  peninsula,  suirounded  by  wave-worn 
cliffs,  and  swept  by  gales  from  every  quarter.  On  its  outer  point  is  a 
lighthouse  which  holds  a  fixed  light  (visible  for  17  M.)  148  ft.  above 
the  sea. 

Whale  Cove  is  on  the  N.  E.  shore,  and  is  bordered  by  a  shingle-beach 
on  which  are  found  bits  of  porphyry,  agate,  jasper,  and  other  minerals. 
"  Here  the  view  is  surprisingly  fine,  the  entire  shore  being  encircled  by 
immense  cliffs  that  rise  up  around  the  border  of  the  blue  waves,  with  a 
richness  of  color  and  statellness  of  aspect  that  ca,nnot  fail  to  impress  the 


30     Route  6. 


GRAND  MANAN. 


beholder. ....  On  the  E.  side  is  Fish  Head,  and  on  the  W.  Eel  Brook  and 
Northern  Head,  the  latter  extending  out  beyond  its  neighbor,  and  be< 
tween  are  the  blue  sky  and  water.*'  On  the  melancholy  cliffs  at  Eel 
Brook  Cove  the  ship  Ixyrd  Ashburton  was  wrecked,  and  nearly  all  on 
board  were  lost  (21  of  them  are  buried  at  Flagg's  Cove).  Beyond  this 
point,  and  near  the  extreme  northern  cape,  is  the  BUhop't  Mead,  so  called 
because  of  a  vague  profile  in  the  face  of  the  cliff. 

The  W.  coast  of  Grand  Ma  »an  is  lined  with  a  fiuccession  of  massive  cliffs, 
which  appear  from  West  Ouoddy  like  a  long  and  unbroken  purple  wall. 
These  great  precipices  art  8  100  ft.  high  (attaining  their  greatest  eleva- 
tion at  the  N.  end),  and  f«.  m  noble  combinations  of  marine  scenery.  A 
cart-track  leads  across  the  island  from  near  Woo-I  ward's  Cove  to  the  ro- 
mantic Gcenery  about  Dark  Cove ;  near  which  is  Money  Cove,  so  named 
because  search  has  been  made  there  for  some  of  Capt.  Kidd's  buried 
treasures.  To  the  N.  is  Indian  Beach,  where  several  lodges  of  the  Passa- 
maquoddy  tribe  pass  the  summer,  attending  to  the  shore  fishery  of  por- 
poises. Still  farther  N.  are  the  rocky  palisades  and  whirling  currents  of 
Long's  Eddy. 

"  When  the  cliff  is  brought  out  on  such  a  stupendous  scale  as  at  Grand  Manan, 
with  all  the  acceseories  of  a  wild  ocean  shore,  the  interest  becomes  abaorbing.  The 
other  parts  of  the  island  are  of  course  invested  with  much  interest.  The  low  eastern 
shore,  fringed  with  small  islands  and  rocks,  affords  many  picturesque  sights.    In  a 

Sleaeant  day  a  walk  southward  has  many  charrns.  The  bright  sky,  the  shingle 
each,  the  picturesque  boats,  and  blue  land-locked  bays  continually  enforce  the 
admiration  of  an  artistic  eye,  and  allure  the  pedet^trian  on  past  cape,  cove,  and 
reach,  until  he  suddenly  finds  that  miles  of  ground  intervene  between  him  and  his 
dinner."    (De  Costa.) 

"  Grand  Manan,  a  favorite  summer  haunt  of  the  painter,  is  the  very  throne  of 
the  bold  and  romantic.  The  high  precipitous  shores,  but  for  the  woods  which  beau- 
tify them,  are  quite  iu  the  style  of  Labrador."    (L.  L.  Noble  ) 


Charlevoix  speaks  of  an  old-time  wonder  which  seems  to  have  passed  away  f^om 
these  shores :  "  It  is  even  asserted  that  at  |  of  a  league  off  leleMenane,  which  serves 
as  a  guide  to  vessels  to  enter  St.  John's  River,  there  is  a  rock,  almost  always  cov- 
ered by  the  sea,  which  is  of  lapis-lazuli.  !t  is  added  that  Commander  de  Razilli 
broke  off  a  piece,  which  he  sent  to  France,  and  Sieur  Denys,  who  bad  seen  it,  says 
that  it  was  valued  a,  ten  crowns  an  ounce." 


1 


'*  But,  interesting  as  are  all  parts  of  this  picturesque  island,  the  climax  of  solitary 
wildness  aud  grandeur  is  to  be  found  only  in  the  'Great  (or  Gull)  Cliffs,'  at  Southern 
Head.  Landing  from  the  Eastport  steamer,  either  at  Flagg's  or  at  Woodward's  Cove, 
let  us  charter  an  open  vehicle  and  ride  down  the  island.  The  smooth  brown  roud 
skirts  along  the  E.  shore  for  the  most  part,  showing  us  in  succession  the  half-dozen 
peaceful  fi.shing-hamlets  which  contain  its  entire  population,  with  their  seven  neat 
churches  and  their  remarkably  handsome  and  commodious  schoolhouses.  After  8 
hrs.  delightful  drive,  we  arrive  at  *  Harvey's,'  a  very  small  but  most  home- 
like cotti^e  inn.  Alighting  here,  let  us  take  the  picturesque  path  that  leads  to 
the'  Qreat(or  Gull)  Cliffs.'  For  the  first  i  M.  the  path  takes  us  across  elevated 
pasture-land,  showing  us  the  open  sea  upon  three  sides.  For  another  quarter  it 
plunges  into  a  dense  forest,  and  presently  descends  to  the  edge  of  the  water,  which 
it  reaches  at  a  little  stopy  level  known  as  '  Southern  Head  Beach.'  Crossing  this, 
and  skirting  the  S.  W.  coast,  we  soon  commence  rising  with  «he  rising  shore,  until 
at  the  end  of  a  short  mile  we  emerge  firom  the  shrubbery  to  find  ourselves  on  the 
top  of  *  Hay  Point,'  gasing  perpendicularly  down  at  the  sea,  which  daebM,  at  the 


OAMPOBELLO. 


JRoiUe  78.     30  a 


base  of  the  cliff  over  which  we  lean,  some  260  feet  below!  A  few  rods  ftiriher  on, 
and  we  cooie  to  the  new  Southern  Head  Lighthouse.  From  hence  for  a  mile  far- 
ther we  pace  along  the  deeply  indented  edge  of  tills  dizzy  height,  as  upon  a  lofty 
esplanade,  enjoying  its  solitary  grandeur,  enhanced  by  the  wild  screams  of  hun* 
dreds  of  circUng  sea  gulls,  until  at  last  we  arrive  opposite  the  *  Old  Maid.'  " 

A  stanch  steamboat  r'lns  between  Eastport  and  Grand  Manan,  con- 
necting with  the  International  &teumships  from  Bosion  at  Eastport,  and 
crossing  to  the  island  in  2  hrs.  There  ia  a  good  pier  at  Flagg's  Cove 
(North  Head).  Two  small  but  comfortable  hotels  have  been  erected  near 
North  Head  (the  Marble-Ridgfe  House);  and  Grand  Manan  has  latterly 
grown  rapidly  in  public  favor.  A  submarine  cable  runs  hence  to  Eastport. 
There  are  5  telegraph-offices  on  the  island.  There  are  also  several  livery 
stables,  and  good  roads.  Complete  immunity  from  hay-fever  is  enjoyed 
here.    Myriads  of  gulls  and  stormy  petrels  breed  on  the  adjacent  islets. 

78.   Gampobello. 

Small  steamboats  run  from  Eastport  to  Gampobello  hourly. 

The  Owen  is  an  sestbetic  summer-hotel,  composed  of  the  old  Owen  mansion, 
devoted  to  office,  billiard-room,  kitchen,  and  dining-room,  and  the  main  building, 
a  huge  modem  erection,  containing  parlors  and  chambers,  and  connected  with  the 
old  mansion  by  a  long  open  corridor.  The  surrounding  grounds  are  pleasantly  laid 
out,  and  contain  the  old  porter's  lodge,  sun-dial,  Lovers'  Lane,  and  the  Admiral's 
hawthorn  hedges. 

The  Tyn-y-Coedd  (House  in  the  Wood)  is  another  large  summer-hotel,  per- 
taining to  the  Gampobello  Gompany,  and  devoted  mainly  to  the  accommodation  of 
families,  being  quieter  and  more  secluded  than  the  Owen. 

Campobello  is  an  island  8  M.  by  3  in  area,  lying  off  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
and  pertaining  to  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick.  It  has  1,160  inhabi- 
tants, most  of  whom  live  in  two  villages,  —  Welchpool,  on  a  pretty  harbor 
to  the  N.,  and  Wilson's  Beach,  a  populous  fishing-settlement  on  the  S. 
shore,  settled  by  squatters,  in  defiance  of  the  Owens,  who  frequently 
burned  their  houses  and  schooners,  but  were  finally  obliged  to  allow  them 
to  stay.  The  fine  old  Owen  roads  across  the  island  have  been  extended 
by  new  highways  opened  by  the  Campobello  Compmy,  and  afford  beauti- 
ful drives  across  the  breezy  uplands,  through  leagues  of  silent  evergreen 
forests,  and  out  on  sea-beaten  promontories.  There  are  a  few  profitable 
farms  on  the  island,  and  minerals  are  found  in  the  hills  and  glens ;  but  the 
chief  source  of  income  is  the  fishing  business. 

The  Episcopal  Church  is  ultra- Anglican,  with  its  imported  vicar  praying 
for  the  Queen  and  ull  the  Royal  Family,  with  the  usual  English  intonation ; 
its  great  chancel-carpet,  ".mbroidered  by  the  ladies  of  New  Brunswick,  with 
the  three  feathers  of  the  Prince  of  Wales ;  and  its  rich  altar-cloths,  pre- 
sented by  Sister  Portia,  Admiral  Owen's  granddaughter.  The  only  other 
church  on  the  island  is  Baptist.  The  chief  local  holidays  are  the  Queen's 
Birthday  and  Dominion  Day  (July  1). 

Glen  Seyem  (the  ancient  Herring  Cove)  is  a  lovely  cove  on  the  oater 


30  b     Ho-iOe  78. 


CAMPOBELLO. 


shore,  with  brilliaiit-hued  pebbles,  craggy  headlands,  and  a  contignont 
lake  of  fresh  water.  Friar^t  Heady  within  li  M.  of  the  Owen,  is  a  rocky 
pillar  in  the  sea,  off  cliUs  146  ft.  high,  and  badly  battered  by  artillery. 
Eastern  Head,  Harbor  ^.e  Lute,  the  lighthouses  at  the  ends  of  the  island, 
and  other  interesting  points,  are  visited  by  summer-sojourners.  The  west- 
em  aide  of  Campobello  fronts  on  the  beauties  of  Passamaqnoddy  Bay, 
around,  which  appear  Liibec,  Eastport,  and  other  white  villages,  with  the 
purple  hills  of  New  Brun<:.wick  in  the  distance.         '   ^' 

Campobello,  the  aucient  Passamaquoddy  Island^  was  g^ranted  by  the  Britip/u 
Grown  to  Admiral  William  Fitzwilliam  Owen  in  1767,  aud  th:it  gentluman  and  hi<i 
heirn,  of  a  noble  naval  family^  occupied  the  domain  for  more  ihau  a  hundred  yearA. 
The  AdiDiral  built  a  quarter-dtick  over  the  ro<:ka,  on  which  h«  used  to  promenade 
in  full  uniform.  He  was  buried  by  candio  Hght,  in  the  churchyard  of  the  lltttn 
Episcopal  church,  whore  his  dencendants  have  since  followed  him.  There  art  num- 
berless quaint  legends  of  thu  old  regime  here ;  of  8^1*  Iiobt;rt  PfeVs  vii^it,  hwl  the 
advent  of  British  frigates;  of  mysterious  wrecks,  pirates,  apparitlcna,  auci.  other 
m<irvels. 

After  Admiral  Owen  tMed,  the  estate  fell  to  his  son-iii-^aw,  Captain  iJ'oinson,  of 
the  Royal  ^avy,  who  thereupon  assumed  the  Owen  natneaud  settle!  upon  the  island. 
There  was  <i:rea.i  excitement  here  in  1866,  wheu  many  armed  Irish  patriots  came  to 
Eastport.  apparentlv  wttii  a  dc  .ign  of  invading  Campobello,  and  twisting  the  tail  of 
the  British  iion,  T))<)  island  was  nearly  deserted  by  its  inhabitants ;  British  frig* 
Rtes  and  Ameru*\n  cutters  cruised  in  the  adj^icent  waters;  St.  Andrews  and  St. 
Stephen  were  gari'.-oned  by  British  troops;  and  General  Meade  occupied  Eastport 
with  a  detachnipav  of  United  States  regulars.  The  last  of  the  Owens  moved  to  Eng- 
land, tired  of  the  monotonous  life  of  the  old  manor-house,  and  in  1880  Campobello 
was  purchased  by  a  syndicate  of  Boston  and  New  York  capitalists,  to  be  made  into  a 
summer-resort.  Besides  the  great  hotels,  many  summer-ccttages  and  villas  are  being 
erected  here  by  well-known  families  from  Boston,  Cambridge,  and  other  cities. 

The  new  development  of  this  remote  island  as  a  summer-resort  has  been 
rapid  and  secure,  and  already  Campobello  bids  fair  to  become  a  formidable 
rival  of  Mount  Desert,  in  a  fashionable  point  of  view,  although  its  scenery 
is  in  almost  every  way  inferior.  The  novel  and  original  architecture  and 
equipments  of  the  great  hotels,  and  the  attractiveness  of  their  grounds  and 
surroundings  combine  w'th  the  insular  and  provincial  quaintnesses  of  the 
islanders  to  make  a  sojourn  here  very  interesting. 


BAY  OP  FUNDY. 


RouU  5.      31 


After  leaving  the  harbor  of  St.  John  the  steamer  nms  S.  W.  by  W.  9| 
M.,  passing  the  openings  of  Manawagonish  Bay  and  Pisarinco  Cove.  The 
course  is  laid  well  out  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  which  "  wears  a  beautiful 
aspect  in  fine  summer  weather,  —  a  soft  chalky  hue  quite  different  from 
the  stern  blue  of  the  soa  on  the  Atlantic  shores,  and  somewhat  approach, 
ing  the  summer  tints  of  the  channel  on  the  coast  of  England."  Beyond 
the  point  of  Split  Eock,  Musquash  Harbor  is  seen  opening  to  the  N.  it  is 
a  safe  and  beautiful  haven,  2  M.  long  and  very  deep,  at  whose  head  is  tha 
pretty  Episcopal  village  of  Musquash  (Musquash  Hotel),  with  several  lum> 
ber-mills.  About  two  centuries  ago  a  French  war-vessel  was  driven  into 
this  harbor  and  destroyed  by  a  British  cruiser.  From  Split  Bock  the 
course  is  W.  \  S.  for  llj  M.  to  Point  Lepreau,  passing  the  openings  of 
Chance  Harbor  and  Dipper  Harbor,  in  which  are  obscure  marine  hamlets. 
In  the  latter,  many  years  ago,  the  frigate  Plumper  was  wrecked,  with  a 
large  amount  of  specie  on  board.  The  harbor  is  now  visited  mostly  by 
lobster-fishers.  Point  Lepreau  is  a  bold  and  tide-swept  promontory,  on 
-which  are  two  fixed  lights,  visible  for  18  and  20  M.  at  sea. 

The  traTeller  will  doubtless  be  amazed  at  the  rudeness  and  sterility  of  these  frown- 
ing shores.  "  Two  very  different  itupresuioas  in  regard  to  the  Province  of  New 
Brunswick  will  be  produced  on  the  mind  of  the  stranger,  according  as  he  contents 
himself  with  visiting  the  towns  and  inspecting  the  lands  which  lie  along  the  sea- 
board, or  ascends  its  rivers,  or  penetrates  by  its  numerous  roads  into  the  interior  of 
its  more  central  and  northern  counties.  In  the  former  case  he  will  feel  like  the 
traveller  who  enters  Sweden  by  the  harbors  of  Stockholm  and  Gottenburg,  or  who 
sails  among  the  rocks  on  the  western  coast  of  Norway.  The  naked  cliSs  or  shelving 
shores  of  granite  or  other  hardened  rocks,  and  the  unvarying  pine  forests,  awaken 
in  his  mind  ideas  of  hopeless  desolation,  and  poverty  d  barrenness  appear  neces- 
sarily to  dwell  within  the  iron-bound  shores But  on  the  other  hand,  if  the 

stranger  penetrate  beyond  the  Atlantic  shores  of  the  Province  and  travel  through 
the  interior,  he  will  be  struck  by  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  rivers,  by  the  fertility 
of  its  river  islands  and  intervales,  and  by  the  great  extent  and  excellent  condition 
of  its  roads."    (Prop.  J.  F.  W.  Johnston,  P.  R.  S.) 

From  Point  Lepreau  the  course  is  laid  nearly  \V.  for  16J  M.  to  Bliss 
Island,  crossing  the  bight  of  Mace's  Bay,  a  wide  and  shallow  estuary  in 
which  are  two  fishing-hamlets.  The  Saturday  steamer  stops  on  this  reach 
at  Beaver  Harbor,  a  place  of  150  inhabitants.  S.  of  this  harbor,  and  seen 
on  the  1.  of  the  course,  are  the  five  black  and  dangerous  islets  called  the 
Wolves,  much  dreaded  by  navigators.  A  vessel  of  the  International  Steam- 
ship Company  was  wrecked  here  two  or  three  years  ago.  One  of  the 
Wolves  bears  a  revolving  light,  111  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  16  M. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  Bliss  Island  (which  has  a  fixed  red  light),  and 
to  the  N.  is  seen  the  entrance  to  VEtang  Harbor,  a  deep  and  picturesqua 
inlet  which  is  well  sheltered  by  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  called  Cai- 
tiff. A  few  miles  S.  \V.  are  seen  the  rolling  hills  of  Campobello;  Deer 
Island  is  nearer,  on  the  W. ;  and  the  bay  is  studded  with  weird-looking 
hummocky  islands,  —  the  Nubble,  White,  and  .Spruce  Islands,  the  grim 
trap-rock  mamelon  of  White  Horse,  and  many  other  nameless  rocks. 
They  are  known  as  the  West  Isles,  and  most  of  them  are  inhabited  by 
hard-working  fishermen. 


32     RouU  5. 


ST.  0£ORGE. 


I' 


8t.  George  (three  inns),  a  village  of  1,200  inhabitants  devoted  to  the 
lumber  and  granite  trades,  is  at  the  head  of  the  tide,  4  M.  from  the  ship- 
harbor  below,  and  stands  on  both  sides  of  the  Magaguadavic,  at  the 
Lower  Falls,  where  the  river  is  compressed  into  a  chasm  30  ft.  wide,  and 
falls  about  50  ft.  These  falls  in  several  steps  furnish  a  water-power  un- 
surpassed in  Canada,  and  along  the  sides  of  the  gorge,  clinging  to  the 
rocks  like  eagles'  nests,  are  several  mills  in  which  lumber  and  granite  are 
manufactured.  Geologists  have  found  in  this  vicinity  marked  evidences  of 
the  action  of  icebergs  and  glaciers.  The  gorge  through  which  the  waters 
rush  with  an  almost  Niagara  roar  has  been  caused  by  some  convulsion  of 
nature,  which  in  its  mighty  throes  rent  the  cliffs  asunder,  giving  vent  to 
what  must  have  been  a  great  lake  above.  This  district  has  become  cele- 
brated for  its  production  of  a  fine  granitf  of  a  rose-red  color  which  receives  a 
high  polish,  and  is  extensively  used  lor  ornamental  columns  and  monu- 
ments. It  is  pronounced  by  competent  judges  to  be  superior  to  the  Scotch 
granite  of  Peterhead  (popularly  called  "Aberdeen  Granite"),  and  is 
beautifully  tinted.  The  construction  of  the  Grand  Southern  Railway 
affords  improved  facilities  for  visiting  this  interesting  locality. 

"  The  village,  the  cataract,  the  lake,  and  the  elevated  wilderness  to  the  N.,  render 
this  part  of  the  country  peculiarly  picturesque  ;  indeed,  the  neighborhood  of  St. 
George,  the  Diftdeguash,  Chamcook,  and  the  lower  St.  Croix,  present  the  traveller 
with  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  America."    (Dr.  Gesner.) 

Lake  Utopia  is  picturesquely  bituated  in  a  deep  and  sheltered  depression, 
along  whose  slopes  ledges  of  red  granite  crop  out.  It  is  about  1  M.  from  St. 
George,  and  6  M.  long,  and  connects  with  the  Magaguadavic  River  3  M.  above 
the  village,  by  a  natural  canal  1  M.  long,  which  is  well  bordered  by  magnificent 
forest  trees,  and  furnishes  a  beautiful  resort  for  boating  parties,  sportsmen,  and 
anglers  en  route  to  the  Lake.  The  earliest  pioneers  found  the  remains  of  au  ancient 
and  mysterious  temple,  all  traces  of  which 'have  now  passed  away.  Here  also  was 
found  a  slab  of  red  granite,  bearing  a  large  bas-relief  of  a  human  head,  in  style  re- 
sembling an  Egyptian  sculpture,  and  having  a  likeness  to  Washington.  This  re- 
markable medallion  has  been  placed  in  the  Natural  History  Museum  at  St.  John. 
For  nearly  40  years  the  Indians  and  lumbermen  near  the  lake  have  told  marvellous 
stories  of  a  marine  prodigy  called  "  the  Monster  of  Utopia,"  which  dwells  in  this 
fidr  forest-loch.  His  last  appearance  was  in  1867,  when  several  persons  about  the 
shores  claimed  to  have  seen  furious  disturbances  of  the  waters,  and  to  have  caught 
momentary  glimpses  of  an  animal  10  ft.  thick  and  80  ft.  long.  The  lake  abounds  in 
silvery-gray  trout,  and  its  tributary  streams  contain  many  brook-trout  and  smelt. 

Among  the  hills  along  the  valley  of  the  Magaguadavic  River  are  the  favorite  haunts 
of  large  numbers  of  Virginian  deer.  Moose  were  formerly  abundant  in  this  region, 
and  it  is  but  a  few  years  since  over  400  were  killed  in  one  season,  for  the  sake  of  their 
hides.  This  noble  game  animal  has  been  nearly  exterminated  by  the  merciless  set* 
tiers,  and  will  soon  become  extinct  in  this  district. 

The  Magasuadavic  Kiver  (an  Indian  name  meaning  "The  River  of  the 
Hills  ")  rises  in  a  chain  of  lakes  over  80  M.  N.  W.,  within  a  short  portage  of  the 
Sheogomoc  River,  a  tributary  of  the  upper  St.  John.  Traversing  the  great  Lake 
of  Magaguadavic  it  descends  through  an  uninhabited  and  barren  highland  region, 
tersely  described  by  an  early  pioneer  as  "  a  scraggly  hole."  Much  of  its  lower  valley 
is  a  wide  intervale,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  an  ancient  lake-bottom.  The 
river  is  followed  closely  by  a  rugged  road,  which  leads  to  the  remote  Harvey  and 
Magaguadavic  settlements. 

After  leaving  the  port  of  St.  George,  the  steamer  runs  S.  W.  across 

Passamaquoddy  Bay,  with  the  West  Isles  and  the  heights  of  Deer  Island 

on  the  S.,  and  other  bold  hummocks  on  either  side.    On  the  N.  are  the 


ST.  ANDREWS. 


Route  6.     33 


estuaries  of  the  Digdegnash  and  Bocabec  Rivers,  and  the  massive  ridge 
of  the  Chamcook  Mt. 

St.  Andrews  {Central  Exchange,  $1.50  a  day),  the  capital  of  Charlotte 
County,  is  finely  situated  on  a  peninsula  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix 
River,  which  is  here  2  M.  wide.  It  has  about  1,800  inhabitants,  and  a  few 
quiet  old  streets,  surrounded  by  a  broad  belt  of  farms.  The  town  was 
founded  about  a  century  ago,  and  soon  acquired  considerable  commercial 
importance,  and  had  large  fleets  in  its  harbor,  loading  with  timber  for 
Great  Britain  and  the  West  Indies.  This  era  of  prosperity  was  ended  by 
the  rise  of  the  town  of  St.  Stephen  and  by  the  operation  of  the  Reciprocity 
Treaty,  and  for  many  years  St.  Andrews  has  been  retrograding,  until  now 
the  wharves  are  deserted  and  dilapidated,  and  the  houses  seem  antiquated 
and  neglected.  It  has  recently  attracted  summer  visitors,  on  account  of 
the  pleasant  scenery  and  the  facilities  for  boating,  fishing,  and  excur- 
sions. 

St  Andrews  was  once  strongly  fortified  by  the  British  Government,  and 
some  remains  of  these  works  still  exist.  It  is  hoped  that  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway,  which  is  now  building  across  Maine,  from  Lake  Megan- 
tic  by  Moosehead,  will  make  its  chief  winter-port  here.  Fogs  are  very 
rare;  summer  nights  are  cool;  and  the  environs  are  lovely.  The  town 
is  laid  out  in  square  blocks,  and  the  streets  are  wide  and  kept  in  good 
order.  The  roads  are  excellent  for  driving,  and  from  many  points  give 
picturesque  views.  The  public  buildings  are  the  court-house,  jail,  rec- 
ord office,  and  marine  hospital ;  and  there  are  a  number  of  neat  private 
residences,  including  that  of  Sir  Leonard  Tilley,  K.  C.  B.,  Finance  Min- 
ister of  the  Dominion.  Of  churches  it  has  Presbyterian,  Methodist, 
Baptist,  Roman  Catholic,  and  Church  of  England.  The  "Argyll,"  a 
large  structure,  with  rooms  for  200  guests,  was  opened  in  1881  as  a 
summer-hotel.  It  is  pleasantly  located  on  elevated  ground,  and  con- 
venient to  the  beaches,  where  the  facilities  for  sea-bathing  are  unrivalled. 

Trains  of  the  New  Brunswick  Railway  run  to  and  firom  St.  Andrews,  connecting 
with  trains  for  Woodstock,  Houlton,  St.  John,  Bangor,  Portland,  and  Boston. 
Steamboats  run  daily  between  St.  Andrews,  Calais,  Eastport,  and  Campobello, 
connecting  at  Eastport  with  steamers  for  St.  John,  Qrand  Manan,  Portland,  and 
Boston. 

The  Chamoook  Mt.  is  about  4  M.  N.  of  St.  Andrew,  and  its  base  is 
reached  by  a  good  road  (visitors  can  also  go  by  railway  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain).  It  is  often  ascended  by  parties  for  the  sake  of  the  view, 
which  includes  "the  lovely  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  with  its  little  islands 
and  outline  recalling  recollections  of  the  Gulf  of  Naples  as  seen  from  the 
summit  of  Vesuvius,  whilst  the  scenery  toward  the  N.  is  hilly,  with 
deep  troughs  containing  natural  tarns,  where  trout  are  plentiful." 

As  the  steamer  swings  out  into  the  river,  the  little  ship-building  village 
of  Bobbimton  is  seen,  09  the  American  shore.    On  the  r.  the  bold  bJofis  of 


r^ 


34      R(niU  5. 


ST.  CROIX  RIVER. 


Gbamcook  Mt.  are  passed,  and  occasional  fann-booses  are  seen  along  the 
shores.  6  -  6  M.  alipve  St.  Andrews,  the  steamer  passes  on  the  £.  side  of 
Doaoet's  Island,  on  which  a  lighthouse  has  been  erected  by  the  Ameri- 
can government.  W.  of  the  island  is  the  village  of  Red  Beach,  with  its 
plaster-mills,  and  oa  the  opposite  shore  is  the  farming  settlement  of  Bay 
Shore. 

In  the  year  1604  Henri  IV.  of  France  granted  •  large  part  of  America  to  Pierre  da 
GuaKtf  Sieur  de  Moats,  and  Governor  of  I'cjs.  This  tract  extended  from  Phila- 
delphia to  Quebec,  and  was  named  Acadie,  which  in  said  to  be  derived  from  a  local 
Indian  word.  De  Monts  sailed  from  Havre  in  April,  with  a  motley  company  of  im- 
pressed vagabonds,  gentlemen-adventurers,  and  Huguenot  and  Catholic  clergymen, 
the  latter  of  whom  quarrelled  all  the  way  over.  After  exploring  parts  of  Nova 
Scotia  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  the  voyagers  ascended  the  Passamnquoddy  Bay  and 
the  river  to  St.  Croix  Isle,  where  it  was  determined  to  found  a  settlement.  Bat- 
teries were  erected  at  each  end,  joined  by  palisades,  within  which  were  the  houses 
of  De  Monts  and  Champlain,  workshops,  magazines,  the  chapel,  and  the  barracks  of 
the  owiss  soldiery.  But  the  winter  soon  set  in  with  its  intense  cold,  and  the  rav- 
ages of  disease  were  added  to  the  miseries  of  the  colonists.  35  out  of  79  men  died 
of  the  scurvy  during  the  winter;  and  when  a  supply-ship  arrived  from  France,  in 
June,  the  island  was  abandoned. 

"  It  is  meet  to  tell  you  how  hard  the  isle  of  Sainte  Croix  is  to  be  found  out  to 
them  that  never  were  there  ;  for  there  are  so  many  isles  and  great  bays  to  go  by 
(from  St.  John)  before  one  be  at  it,  that  I  wonder  how  one  might  ever  pierce  so  far 
as  to  find  it.  There  are  three  or  four  mountains  imminent  above  the  others,  on  the 
sides ;  bui  on  the  N.  side,  from  whence  the  r-ver  runneth  down,  there  is  but  a  sharp 
pointed  one,  above  two  leagues  distant.  Tlie  woods  of  the  main  land  are  fair  and 
admirable  high,  and  well  grown,  as  in  like  manner  is  the  grass Now  let  us  pre- 
pare and  hoist  sails.  M.  de  Poutrincourt  made  the  voyage  into  these  parts,  with 
some  men  of  good  sort,  not  to  winter  there,  but  as  it  were  to  seek  out  bis  seat,  and 
find  out  a  land  that  might  like  him.  Which  he  having  done,  had  no  need  to  sojourn 
there  any  longer."  Late  in  the  year,  "  the  most  urgent  things  being  done,  and 
hoary  snowy  father  being  come,  that  is  to  say.  Winter,  then  they  were  forced  to 
keep  within  doors,  and  to  live  every  one  at  his  own  home.  During  vrhich  time  our 
men  had  three  special  discommodities  in  this  island :  want  of  wood  (for  that  which 
nvas  in  the  said  isle  was  spent  in  buildings),  lack  of  fresh  water,  and  the  continual 
watch  made  by  night,  fearing  some  surprise  from  the  savages  that  had  lodged  them- 
selves at  the  foot  of  the  said  island,  or  some  other  enemy.  For  the  malediction  and 
rage  of  many  Ghristiansijs  such,  that  one  must  take  heed  of  them  much  more  than 
of  infidels.'^    (Lescarbot's  Nouvelle  France.) 

In  1783  the  riv^r  St.  Croix  wa«  designated  as  the  E.  boundary  of  Maine,  but  the 
Americans  claimed  that  the  true  St.  Cro''^  was  the  stream  called  the  Magaguadavic. 
It  then  became  important  to  find  tru'  of  De  Monts's  settlement  of  180  years  pre- 
vious, as  that  would  locate  the  true  .  oroix  River.  So,  after  long  searching  among 
the  bushes  and  jungle,  the  boundai  commissioners  succeeded  in  finding  remnants 
of  the  ancient  French  occupation  on  Neutral  (Doucet's)  Island,  and  thus  fixed  the 
line. 

About  10  M.  above  St.  Andrews  the  river  deilects  to  the  W.,  and  to  the 
N.  is  seen  the  deep  and  spacious  *  Oak  Bay,  surrounded  by  bold  hills,  and 
forming  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  prospect.  It  is  supposed  that  the 
French  explorers  named  the  St.  Croix  River  from  the  resemblance  of  its 
waters  at  this  point  to  a  cross,  — the  upright  arm  being  fonned  by  the 
river  to  the  S.  and  Oak  Bay  to  the  N.,  while  the  horizontal  arm  is  outlined 
by  the  river  to  the  W.  and  a  cove  and  creek  on  the  E.  At  the  head  of  the 
bay  is  the  populous  farming-village  of  Oak  Bay,  with  three  churches. 

Rounding  on  the  1.  the  bold  bluff  called  Devil's  Head  (from  one  Duval, 
who  formerly  lived  there),  the  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  W.,  in  a  narrow 


ST.  STEPHEN. 


Route  6.      36 


sen  along  the 
;he  E.  side  of 
)y  the  Araerl- 
tach^  with  its    ' 
ement  of  Bay 

ica  to  Pierre  da 
led  from  Phila- 
wd  from  a  local 
company  of  im- 
liolic  clergymen, 
g  parts  of  Nova 
[uoddy  Bay  and 
i>ttlement.  Bat- 
\rere  the  houses 
I  the  barracks  of 
)ld,  and  the  rav- 
of  79  men  died 
from  France,  in 

be  found  out  to 
it  bays  to  go  by 
jver  pierce  so  far 
he  others,  on  the 
ere  is  but  a  sharp 
land  Hre  fair  and 
,  .  Nowletuspre- 
these  parts,  with 
lout  bis  seat,  and 
o  need  to  sojourn 
being  done,  and 
ly  were  forced  to 
:  which  time  our 
(for  that  which 
ad  the  continual 
lad  lodged  them- 
malediction  and 
luch  more  than 


channel,  hetween  sterile  shores.  2-3  M.  above  is  the  antiquated  marine 
hamlet  called  The  Ledge  (I.  bank),  most  of  whose  inhabitants  are  depend- 
ent on  the  sea  for  tlieir  living.  4  M.  above  this  point  the  steamer  reaches 
her  dock  at  St.  Stephen. 

St.  Stephen  (Queen  Hotel)  is  an  active  and  enterprising  provincial 
town,  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  St.  Croix  River,  opposite 
the  American  city  of  Calais.  The  population  is  about  5,000,  with  6 
churches,  1  newspaper,  and  2  banks.  The  business  of  St.  Stephen  is 
mostly  connected  with  the  manufacture  and  shipment  of  lumber.  The 
falls  of  the  river  at  this  point  give  a  valuable  water-power,  which  will 
probably  be  devoted  to  general  manufacturing  purposes  after  the  lumber 
supply  begins  to  fail.  A  covered  bridge  connects  St.  Stephen  with  Calail 
{The  American  House  ;  St.  Croix  Exchange),  a  small  city  of  the  State  of 
Maine,  with  6,000  inhabitants,  7  churches,  2  weekly  papers,  and  2  banks. 
Although  under  different  flags,  and  separated  by  lines  of  customs-officers, 
St.  Stephen  and  Calais  form  practically  but  one  community,  with  identi- 
cal pursuits  and  interests.  Their  citizens  ha^e  always  lived  in  perfect 
fraternity,  and  formed  and  kept  an  agreement  by  which  they  abstained 
from  hostilities  during  the  War  of  1812.  At  that  time  the  authorities  also 
restrained  the  restless  spirits  from  the  back  country  from  acts  of  violence 
across  the  borders.  2-3  M.  above  is  another  Canado-American  town, 
with  large  lumber-mills  at  the  falls,  which  is  divided  by  the  river  into 
MlUtown-SL.  Stephen  and  Mllltown-Calais.  Travellers  who  cross  the  river 
either  at  Calais  or  Milltown  will  have  their  baggage  looked  into  by  the 
customs-officers,  squads  of  whom  are  stationed  at  the  ends  of  the  bridges. 

The  New  Brunswick  &  Canada  Railway  runs  N.  from  St.  Stephen  to  Houlton  and 
Woodstock  (see  Route  6).  Calais  is  connected  with  the  Schoodio  Lakes  by  railway, 
and  with  Eastport  by  stages.  The  U.  S.  Mail-stage  runs  daily  to  Bangor,  95  M.  W. 
(fare,  $  7-50),  passing  through  a  wide  tract  of  unoccupied  wilderness.  The  steam* 
boat  leaves  Calais  or  St.  Stephen  daily  in  summer,  and  semi-weekly  in  winter,  for 
Eastport,  where  it  connects  with  the  International  steamships  for  Portland  and 
Boston  (see  also  Route  3,  and  Osgood's  New  Encfland).  Fares,  Calais  to  Portland, 
$4.50 ;  to  Boston,  by  water,  $5.50 ;  to  Boston,  by  rail  firom  Portland,  $  7. 

The  Schoodic  Lakes. 

A  railway  runs  21  M.  N.  W.  from  Calais  to  Leicey^s  Island  (2  inns), 
in  Princeton,  whence  the  tourist  may  enter  the  lovely  and  picturesque 
Schoodic  Lakes.  The  steamer  Gipsty  carries  visitors  12  M.  up  the  lake  to 
Grand  Lake  Stream,  one  of  the  most  famous  fishing-grounds  in  America. 
The  trout  in  Lewey's  Lake  have  been  nearly  exterminated  by  the  voracious 
pike,  but  the  upper  waters  are  more  carefully  guarded,  and  contain  perch, 
pickerel,  land-locked  salmon,  lake-trout,  and  fine  speckled-trout.  The 
Grand  Lake  Stream  is  3-4  M.  long,  and  connects  the  Grand  and  Big 
Lakes  with  its  rapid  waters,  in  which  are  found  many  of  the  famous  sil- 
very salmon-trout.  The  urban  parties  who  visit  these  forest-lakes  usually 
[engage  Indian  guides  to  do  the  heavy  work  of  portages  and  camp-build- 


36    JUvue, 


8CH00DIC  LAKES. 


i 


log,  and  to  gaide  their  conne  firom  lake  to  lake.    Th<i  .  s  \  a  Urge  V'llage 

of  the  Passamaquoddy  tribe  near  the  foot  of  Big  Lake.    A  two  houn* 

portage  leads  to  Grand  Lake,  a  broad  and  beautiful  forest-sea,  with 

gravelly  shores,  picturesque  islets,  and  transparent  waters.    The  cry  of 

the  loon  is  often  heard  here,  and  a  few  bear  and  deer  still  lurk  along  the 

shores.    From  Grand  Lake  a  labyrinth  of  smaller  and  yet  more  remote 

lakes  may  be  entered  ;  and  portages  conduct  thence  to  the  navigable 

tributaries  of  the  Machias  and  Penobscot  Rivers. 

**  One  of  the  most  picturesque  portions  of  the  western  Schoodio  region  Is  Qnnd 
Lake.  Ttiis  noble  sheet  of  water  is  broken  here  and  there  by  islets,  and  surrounded, 
even  to  the  water's  edge,  with  forests  of  pine  and  hard  wood,  whilst  itii  bottom  is 
covered  with  granitic  bowlders,  which,  in  combination  with  drift,  are  spread  iar  and 
idde  among  the  arboreal  vegetation  around/' 

••  While  the  fog  is  lifting  from  Schoodie  Lake, 
And  the  white  trout  are  leaping  for  fliei. 


It  s  exciting  iport  those  beaullea  to  take, 
Jogging  the  nerrei  and  feasting  the  eyei. 


Giirio  C.  Scott. 


6.  St  Andrews  and  St  Stephen  to  Woodstock  and  Honlton. 

By  the  New  Brunswick  &  Canada  Railway.  Fare  firom  St.  Stephen  'to  Wood- 
stock, S  2.90. 

DIetanoes.  —  St.  Andrews  to  Ghamcook,  6  M. ;  Bartlett's.  11 ;  Waweig,  13 ; 
Boix  Road,  15;  Hewitt's,  19 ;  Rolling  Dam,  20;  Dumbarton,  24;  Watt  Junction, 
27  (St.  Stephen  to  Watt  Junction,  19) ;  Lawrence,  29  ;  Barber  Dam.  84 ;  McAdam 
Junction,  43 ;  Deer  Lake,  69 ;  Canterbury,  65  ;  Eel  River,  75 ;  Wickhiam,  80 ;  Debeo 
Junction,  90  (Houlton,  98) ;  Hodgdon,  98 ;  Woodstock,  101. 

The  country  traversed  Ify  this  line  is  one  of  the  most  irredeemably  des- 
olate regions  in  North  America.  The  view  from  the  car-windows  pre- 
sents a  continual  succession  of  dead  and  dying  forests,  clearings  bristling 
with  stumps,  and  funereal  clusters  of  blasted  and  fire-scorched  tree-trunks. 
The  trac^  of  human  habitation,  which  at  wide  intervals  are  seen  in  this 
gloomy  land,  are  cabins  of  logs,  where  poverty  and  toil  seem  the  fittest 
occupants;  and  Nature  has  withheld  the  hills  and  lakes  with  which  she 
rudely  adorns  other  wildernesses.  The  sanguine  Dr.  Gesner  wrote  a  vol- 
ume inviting  immigration  to  New  Brunswick,  and  describing  its  domains 
in  language  which  reaches  the  outer  verge  of  complaisant  optimism ;  but 
in  presence  of  the  lands  between  the  upper  St.  John  and  St.  Stephen  his 
pen  lost  its  hyperbolical  fervor.  He  says:  "Excepting  the  intervales  of 
the  streahi,  it  is  necessary  to  speak  with  circumspection  in  regard  to  the 
general  quality  of  the  lands.  Many  tracts  are  fit  for  little  else  but  pas- 
turage." This  district  is  occupied,  for  the  most  part,  by  the  remains  of 
soft-wood  forests,  whose  soils  are  always  inferior  to  those  of  the  hard- 
wood districts. 

For  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Andrews  the  railway  lies  near  the 
shores  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  affording  pleasant  views  to  the  r.  Then 
the  great  mass  of  Chamcook  Mt.  is  passed,  with  its  abrupt  sides  and 
rounded  summit.  Waweig  is  between  Bonaparte  Lake  and  Oak  Bay 
(qee  page  84).    About  7  M.  beyond,  the  line  approaches  the  Dlgdeguash 


ST.  JOHN  TO  BANGOR. 


MouU  7,      37 


ephen  'to  Wood- 


River,  which  it  follows  to  its  source.  At  Wati  Junction  the  St.  St^hen 
Branch  Railway  comes  in  on  the  1.,  and  the  train  passes  on  to  McAdam 
Junction,  where  it  intersects  the  European  &  North  American  Railway 
(page  38).  There  is  a  restaurant  at  this  station,  and  the  passenger  will 
have  time  to  dine  while  the  train  is  waiting  for  the  arrival  of  the  trains 
from  Bangor  and  from  St.  John. 

The  forest  is  again  entered,  and  the  train  passes  on  for  16  M.  until  it 
reaches  the  lumber-station  at  Deer  Lake.  The  next  station  is  Canttr- 
bury  (»mall  inn),  the  centre  of  extensive  operations  in  lumber.  Running 
N.  W.  for  10  M.,  the  Eel  River  is  crossed  near  Rankin's  Mills,  and  at 
Dtbec  Junction  the  passenger  changes  for  Woodstock. 

A  train  runs  thence  8  M.  N-  W.  to  Houlton  (Snell  House,  BuzzeU  JJouse), 
the  shire-town  of  Aroostook  County,  in  the  State  of  Maine  (see  Osgood's 
New  England,  Route  50)  The  other  train  runs  N.  E.  down  the  valley  of 
the  South  Brook,  and  in  about  6  M.  emerges  on  the  highlands  above  the 
valley  of  the  St.  John  River.  For  the  ensuing  5  M.  there  are  beautiful 
views  of  the  river  and  its  cultivated  intervales,  presenting  a  wonderful 
contrast  to  the  dreary  region  behind.  The  line  soon  reaches  its  terminus 
at  the  pretty  village  of  Woodstook  (see  Route  11). 

7.  St  John  to  Bangor. 

By  the  St.  .Tohn  ft  Maine  Hallw^v  \n  10-12  hrs. 

Distances.  —  St.  John  ;  Carlet<^n,  ^  M. ;  Fairrille,  4 ;  South  Bay,  7  ;  Grand 
Bay,  12;  Westfield,  16 ;  NeKpis,  20 ;  VVelsford,  26;  Clarendon,  90;  Gaspereaux, 
83;  Enniskillen,  36;  Hoyt,  39;  Blissville,  42;  Fredericton  Junction,  46;  Tracy, 
49;  Cork,  61;  ilarrey,  66;  Magaguadavic,  76;  McAdam  Junction.  85;  St.  Croix, 
91;  Vanceboro',  92;  Jackson  Brook,  112;  Danforth,  117;  Bancroft,  126;  King- 
man, 139;  Mattawamkeag,  147;  Winn,  150;  Lincoln  Centre,  159;  Lincoln,  161', 
Enfield,  170;  Passadumkeag,  175;  Olamon,  179;  Greenbush,  182;  Costigan,  187', 
Milford,  192;  Oldtown,193;  Great  Works,  194 ;  Webster,  196;  Orono,  197;  Basin 
Mills,  198 ;  Vcazie,  201 ;  Bangor,  205.  (Newport,  233 :  Waterrille,  260 ;  Augusta, 
281;  Brunswick,  315;  Portland,  343;  Portsmouth,  395;  Newburyport,  415;  Bos- 
ton, 451.) 

The  traveller  crosses  the  Princess  St.  ferry  from  St.  John  to  Carleton, 
and  takes  the  train  at  the  terminal  station,  near  the  landing.  The  line 
ascends  through  the  disordered  suburb  of  Carleton,  giving  from  its  higher 
grades  broad  and  pleasing  views  over  the  city,  the  harbor,  and  the  Bay  of 
Fundy.  It  soon  reaches  Fairville,  a  growing  town  near  the  Provincial 
Lunatic  Asjlum  and  the  Suspension  Bridge.  There  are  numerous  lumber- 
mills  here,  in  the  coves  of  the  river.  The  train  sweeps  around  the  South 
Bay  on  a  high  grade,  and  soon  reaches  the  Grand  Bay  of  the  St.  John 
River,  beyond  which  is  seen  the  deep  estuary  of  the  Kennebecasis  Bay, 
with  its  environment  of  dark  hills.  The  shores  of  the  Long  Reach  are  fol- 
lowed for  several  miles,  with  beautiful  views  on  the  r.  over  the  placid 
river  and  its  vessels  and  villages  (see  also  page  41).  To  the  W.  is  a 
sparsely  settled  and  nigged  region  in  which  are  many  lakes,  —  Loch 
Alva,  the  Robin  Hood,  Sherwood,  and  the  Queen's  Lakes. 


\.; 


^l 


■1 


38      JtouU  7.         CHIPX7TNETIC00K  LAKES. 

The  line  leaves  the  Long  Beach,  and  turns  to  the  K.  W.  up  the  valley 
of  the  Nerepis  River,  which  is  followed  as  far  as  the  hamlet  of  Wehford 
(small  inn).  The  country  now  grows  very  tame  and  uninteresting,  as  the 
Douglas  Valley  is  ascended.  Clarendon  is  7  M.  from  the  Clarendon  Set- 
tlement, with  its  new  homes  wrested  from  the  savage  forest.  From  Gas- 
pereaux  a  wagon  conveys  passengers  to  the  South  Oromocto  Lake,  10-12 
M-  S.  W.,  among  the  highlands,  a  secluded  sheet  of  water  about  5  M.  long, 
abounding  in  trout.  Beyond  the  lumber  station  of  Enniskillen,  the  train 
passes  the  prosperous  village  of  Blissville;  and  at  Fredericton  Junction  a 
connection  is  made  for  Fredericton,  about  20  M.  N. 

Tracy's  Mills  is  the  next  stopping-place,  and  is  a  cluster  of  lumber-mills 
on  the  Oromocto  River,  which  traverses  the  village.  On  either  side  are 
wid<>  ti&ccs  of  unpopulated  wilderness;  and  after  crossing  the  parish  of 
New  Maryland,  the  line  enters  Manners  Sutton,  passes  the  Cork  Settle- 
ment, and  stops  at  the  Harvey  Settlement,  a  rugged  district  occupied  by 
families  from  the  borders  of  England  and  Scotland.  To  the  N.  and  K.  W. 
are  the  Bear  and  Cranberry  Lakes,  affording  good  fishing.  A  road  leads 
S.  7-8  M.  from  Harvey  to  the  Oromocto  Lake,  a  fine  sheet  of  water 
nearly  10  M.  long  and  3-4  M.  wide,  where  many  large  trout  are  found. 
The  neighboring  forests  contain  various  kinds  of  game.  Near  the  N.  W. 
shore  of  the  lake  is  the  small  hamlet  of  Tweedside.  The  Bald  Mountain^ 
"  near  the  Harvey  Settlement,  is  a  great  mass  of  porphyry,  with  a  lake 
(probably  in  the  crater)  near  the  summit.  It  is  on  the  edge  of  the  coal 
measures,  where  they  touch  the  slate." 

Magaguadavic  station  is  at  the  foot  of  Magaguadavic  Lake,  which  is 
about  8  M.  long,  and  is  visited  by  sportsmen.  On  its  £!.  shore  is  the  low 
and  bristling  Magaguadavic  Ridge;  and  a  chain  of  smaller  lakes  lies  to 
theN. 

The  train  now  runs  S.  W.  to  Me  Adam  Jnnction  (restaurant  in  the  sta- 
tion), where  it  intersects  the  New  Brunswick  and  Canada  Railway  (see 
Route  6).  6  M.  beyond  McAdam,  through  a  monotonous  wilderness,  is 
St.  Croix,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.  After  crossing  the  river  the 
train  enters  the  United  States,  and  is  visited  by  the  customs-oflUcers  at 
Yanoeboro'  ( Chiputneticook  House).  This  is  the  station  whence  the  beau- 
tiful lakes  of  the  upper  Schoodic  may  be  visited. 

The  Chiputneticook  Lakeg  are  about  45  M.  in  length,  in  a  N.  W.  course, 
and  are  from  >^  to  10  M.  in  width.  Their  navigation  it)  very  intricate,  by  reason  of 
the  multitude  of  islets  and  islands,  narrow  passages,  coves,  and  deep  inlets,  which 
diversity  of  land  and  water  affords  beautiful  combinations  of  scenery.  The  islands 
are  covered  with  cedar,  hemlock,  and  birch  trees ;  and  the  bold  highlands  which 
shadow  the  lakes  are  also  well  wooded.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the 
Fcenery  is  the  abundance  of  bowlders  and  ledges  of  fine  white  granite,  either  seen 
through  the  transparent  waters  or  hning  the  shore  like  massive  masonry.  "  Uni- 
vwsal  gloom  and  Etillness  reign  ever  these  lakes  and  the  forests  around  them." 

,   Beyond  Vanceboro*  the  train  passes  through  an  almost  unbroken  wilder- 
ness for  55  M.,  during  the  last  16  M.  following  the  course  of  the  Matta- 


BT.  JOHN  RIVEa 


Route  8.      39 


p  the  valley 
of  WeUford 
isting,  as  the 
irendon  Set- 
From  Gas- 
Lake,  10-12 
lit  5  M.  long, 
en,  the  train 
m  Junction  a 

lumber-mills 
her  side  are 
he  parish  of 
Cork  Settle- 
occupied  by 
I  and  N.  W. 
A.  road  leads 
eet  of  water 
t  are  found, 
ar  the  N.  W. 
Id  Mountain^ 
with  a  lake 
I  of  the  coal 

ce,  which  is 
re  is  the  low 
akes  lies  to 

it  in  the  sta- 
^ailway  (see 
|ildemess,  is 
le  river  the 
Is-officers  at 
;e  the  beau- 


W.  course, 
by  reason  of 
linleta,  which 
The  islands 
jtlands  which 
latures  of  the 
},  either  seen 
inry.  "Unl- 
Ithem.*' 

Iken  wilder- 
tbe  Matta- 


iraukeag  Biver.  The  station  of  Mattawamkeag  is  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Mattawamkeag  and  Penobscot  Rivers ;  and  the  railway  from  thence 
follows  the  course  of  the  latter  stream,  traversing  a  succession  of  thinly 
populated  lumbering  towns.  45  M.  below  Mattawamkeag,  the  Penobscot 
is  crossed,  and  the  train  reaches  Oldtown  (two  inns),  a  place  of  about 
4,000  inhabitants,  largely  engaged  in  the  lumber  business.  The  traveller 
should  notice  here  the  immense  and  costly  booms  and  mills,  one  of  which 
is  the  largest  in  the  world  and  has  100  saws  at  work  cutting  out  planks. 

On  an  island  jast  abore  Oldtown  is  the  home  of  the  Tarratine  IndJans,  formerly 
the  most  powerful  and  warlike  of  the  Northern  tribes.  They  were  at  tint  Well-di8« 
posed  towards  the  colonists,  but  after  a  series  of  wrongs  and  insults  they  took  up 
arms  in  167S,  and  inflicted  such  terrible  damage  on  the  settlements  that  Maine  be- 
came tributwry  to  them  by  the  Peace  of  Gasco.  After  destroying  the  fortress  of  Pem- 
aquid  to  avenge  an  insult  to  their  chief,  St.  Castin,  they  remained  quiet  for  many 
years.  The  treaty  of  1720  contains  the  substance  of  their  present  relations  with  the 
State.  The  declension  of  the  tribe  was  marked  for  two  centuries ;  but  it  is  now 
slowly  increasing.  The  people  own  the  islands  in  the  Penobscot,  and  have  a  reve- 
nue of  $  6  -  7,000  from  the  State,  which  the  men  eke  out  by  working  on  the  lumber- 
rafts,  and  by  hunting  and  fishing,  while  the  women  make  baskets  and  other  trifles 
for  sale.  The  island-Tillage  is  without  streets,  and  consists  of  many  small  houses 
built  around  a  Catholic  church.  There  are  over  400  persons  here,  most  of  whom 
are  half-breeds. 

Below  Oldtown  the  river  is  seen  to  be  filled  with  booms  and  rafts  of 
timber,  and  lined  with  saw-mills.  At  Orono  is  the  »State  Agricultural 
College;  and  soon  after  passing  Veazie  the  train  enters  the  city  of 
Bangor. 

For  descriptions  of  Bangor,  the  Penobscot  River,  and  the  route  to  Bos- 
ton, see  Osgood's  New  England. 

8.  St.  John  to  Frederioton.  — The  St  John  Biver. 

The  steamers  David  Weston  and  Star,  of  the  Union  Line,  leave  St.  John  (Indian- 
town)  at  9  A.  M.  daily.  See  also  Itoutes  9  and  10.  These  vessels  are  comfortably 
fitted  up  for  passengers,  in  the  manner  of  the  smaller  boats  on  the  Hudson  River. 
Pinner  is  served  on  board ;  and  Fredericton  is  usually  reached  late  in  the  afternoon. 
On  Tuesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  there  is  a  night-boat,  leaving  St.  John  at 
6  P.  H.  ;  and  returning  from  Fredericton  at  4  p.  M.,  reaching  St-  John  at  11  p.  M. 

The  scenery  of  the  St.  John  River  is  pretty,  and  has  a  pleasing  pastoral  quiet- 
ness. The  elements  of  the  landscapes  are  simple ;  the  settlements  are  few  and 
small,  and  at  no  time  will  the  traA'oiler  find  nis  attention  violently  drawn  to  any 
paJKsing  object.  There  are  beautiful  views  on  the  Long  Reach,  at  Belleisle  Bay, 
and  during  the  approach  to  Fredericton,  but  the  prevalent  character  of  the 
scenery  is  that  of  quiet  and  restful  rural  lands,  by  which  it  is  pleasant  to  drift  on 
a  balmy  summer-day.  Certain  provincial  writers  have  done  a  mischief  to  the  St. 
John  by  bestowing  upon  it  too  extravagant  praise,  thereby  piaparing  a  disappoint- 
ment for  such  as  believed  their  report.  One  calls  it  "  the  Rhine  of  America,"  and 
another  prefers  it  to  the  Hudson.  This  is  wide  exaggeration  ;  but  if  the  traveller 
would  enjoy  a  tranquillizing  and  luxurious  journey  through  a  pretty  farming  coun- 
try, abounding  in  mild  diversity  of  scenery,  he  should  devote  a  day  to  this  river. 

1>l«)tance8.  —  (The  steamhoat-landiiigd  bear  the  names  of  their  owners,  and  the 
following  itinerary  bears  reference  rather  to  the  villages  on  the  shores  than  to  the 
stopping-places  of  the  boats. )  St.  John ;  Brundage's  Point,  10  M. ;  Westfleld,  17  ; 
Qreenwich  Hill,  19;  Oak  Point,  26;  Long  Reach,  26;  Tennant's  Cove  (Belleisle 
Bay),  29;  Wlckham,  82;  Hampstead,  ])6;  Otnabog,  41;^  Oazetown,  60;  Upper 
Gajotown,  68 ;  Maugerville,  72  ;  Oromooto,  76 ;  Gla^er's,  81 ;  Frederleton,  86. 

Fares.  —  St.  John  to  Frederloton,  f  1 


I  I 
i  ■ 


40    Jtouus. 


KENNEBECASIS  BAY. 


This  ifrer  mm  called  Loosktook  (Long  Rirer)  hj  the  Etchemin  Indians,  and 
Ouangoudie  by  the  Micmacs.  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  visited  by  De  Monts, 
or  other  explorers  at  an  early  day,  and  in  the  commission  of  the  year  1598  to  the 
Lieut  -General  of  Acadia  it  is  called  La  Riviire  de  la  Grande  Bate.  But  no  exam- 
ination was  made  of  the  upper  waters  until  St.  John's  Day,  1604,  when  the  French 
fleet  under  De  Monts  and  Poutrincourt  entered  the  great  river.  In  honor  of  the 
saint  on  whose  festival  the  exploration  was  begun,  it  was  then  entitled  the  St.  John. 
After  spending  several  weeks  in  ascending  the  stream  and  its  connected  waters,  the 
discoverers  sailed  away  to  the  south,  bearing  a  good  repoib  of  the  chief  river  of 
Acadia.  De  Monts  expected  to  find  by  this  course  a  near  route  to  Tadousac,  on  the 
Saguenay,  and  therefore  sailed  up  as  far  as  the  depth  of  water  would  permit.  "  The 
extent  of  this  river,  the  fish  with  which  it  was  filled,  the  grapes  growing  on  its 
banlLS,  and  the  beauty  of  its  scenery,  were  all  objects  of  wonder  and  admiration." 
At  a  subsequent  day  the  fierce  struggles  of  the  French  seigneurs  were  waged  on  its 
shores,  and  the  invading  fleets  of  New  England  furrowed  its  tranquil  waters. 

The  St.  John  is  the  chief  river  of  the  Maritime  Provinces,  and  is  over  460  M. 
iu  length,  being  navigable  for  steamers  of  1,000  tons  for  90  M.,  for  light-draught 
steamers  270  M.  (with  a  break  at  the  Grand  Falls),  and  for  canoes  for  nearly  its 
entire  extent.  It  takes  its  rise  in  the  great  Maine  forest,  near  the  sources  of  the 
Penobscot  and  the  Ghaudiere ;  and  from  the  lake  which  heads  its  S.  W.  Branch 
the  Indian  voyageurs  carry  their  canoes  across  the  Mejamiette  Portage  and  launch 
them  in  the  Chaudi^re,  on  which  they  descend  to  Quebec.  Flowing  to  the  N.  E. 
for  oVer  150  M.  through  the  Maine  forest,  it  receives  the  Allagash,  St.  Francis,  and 
other  large  streams ;  and  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francis  nearly  to  the  Grand 
Falls,  b  distance  of  75  M.,  it  forms  the  frontier  between  the  United  States  and 
Canada.  It  is  the  chief  member  in  that  great  system  of  rivers  and  lakes  which  has 
won  for  New  Brunswick  the  distinction  of  being  "  the  most  finely  watered  country 
in  the  world."  At  Madawaska  the  course  changes  from  N.  E  to  S.  E.,  and  the 
sparsely  settled  N.  W.  counties  of  the  Province  are  traversed,  with  large  tributaries 
coming  in  on  either  side.  During  the  last  50  M.  of  its  course  it  receives  the  waters 
of  the  great  bas^ins  of  the  Grand  and  Washademoak  Lakes  and  the  Belleisle  and 
Kennebecasis  Bays,  which  have  a  parallel  direction  to  the  N.  £.,  and  afford  good 
ftcilities  for  inland  navigation.  The  tributary  streams  are  connected  with  those  of 
the  Gulf  and  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  by  short  portages  (which  will  be  mentioned  in 
connection  with  their  points  of  departure). 

Immediately  after  leaving  the  dock  at  St.  John  a  fine  retrospect  is 
given  of  the  dark  chasm  below,  over  which  is  the  light  and  graceful 
suspension-bridge.  Running  up  by  Point  Pleasant,  the  boat  ascends  a 
narrow  gorge  with  high  and  abrupt  banks,  at  whose  bases  are  large 
lumber-mills.  On  the  r.  is  Boards  Head,  a  picturesque  rocky  promon- 
tory, in  whose  sides  are  quarries  of  limestone;  3-4  M.  above  Indiantown 
the  broad  expanse  of  Grand  Bay  is  entered,  and  South  Bay  is  seen  open 
ing  on  the  1.  rear. 

The  Kennebeoasis  Bay  is  now  seen,  opening  to  the  N.  E.  This  noble 
sheet  of  water  is  from  1  to  4  M.  wide,  and  is  navigable  for  large  vessels 
for  over  20  M.  It  receives  the  Kennebecasis  and  Hammond  Rivers,  and 
contains  several  islands,  the  chief  of  which,  Long  Island,  is  5  M.  long, 
and  is  opposite  the  village  of  Rothesay  (see  page  22).  The  E.  shore  is  fol- 
lowed for  many  miles  by  the  track  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway. 

The  testimony  of  the  rocks  causes  scientists  to  believe  that  the  St.  John  formerly 
emptied  by  two  mouths,  — through  the  Kennebecasis  and  the  Marsh  Valley,  and 
through  South  Bay  into  Manawagonish  Bay, — and  that  the  breaking  down  of  the 
present  channel  through  the  lofty  hills  W.  of  St.  John  is  an  event  quite  recent  in 
geoloc^cal  history.  The  Indians  still  preserve  a  tradition  that  tliis  barrier  of  hills 
WM  once  unbit>ken  and  served  to  divert  the  stream. 


sfc'ik^- 


LONG  REACH. 


Route  8.      il 


On  the  banks  of  the  placid  Kennebecasis  the  ancient  Mloiufl  legends  locate  tli* 
home  of  the  Great  Boayer,  "  feared  by  beaats  and  men,"  whom  Glooscap  llnallj 
conquered  and  put  to  death.  In  this  'dcinity  dwelt  the  two  Oreat  Brothers,  Gloos- 
OA?  and  MAtsuNsis,  of  unknown  origin  and  invincible  power.  Glooacap  knew  that 
his  brother  was  Tulnerable  only  by  the  touch  of  a  fern-root ;  and  he  had  told  ICal- 
sunsis  (falsely)  that  the  stroke  of  an  owl's  feather  would  kill  him.  It  came  to  pass 
that  Madsunsis  determined  to  kill  his  brother  (whether  tempted  thus  by  Mik-o,  the 
Squirrel,  or  by  Quah-beet-e-sisi,  the  son  of  the  Great  Beaver ,  or  by  his  own  CTil  am- 
bition) ;  wherefore  with  his  arrow  he  shot  Koo-koo-skoos,  the  Owl,  and  with  one  of 
his  feathers  struck  the  sleeping  Glooscap.  Then  he  awoke,  and  leproached  Malsun- 
sis,  but  afterwards  told  him  that  a  blow  from  the  root  of  a  piue  would  kill  him. 
Then  the  traitorous  man  led  his  brother  on  a  hunting  excursion  fax  into  the  fbrest, 
and  while  he  slept  he  smote  him  with  a  pine-root.  But  the  cautiouii  Glooscap  arose 
unharmed,  and  drove  Malsunsis  forth  into  the  forest ;  then  sat  down  by  the  brook- 
side  and  said  to  himself,  "  Naught  but  a  flowering  rush  can  kill  me."  Musquash, 
the  Beaver,  hidden  among  the  sedge,  heard  these  words  and  reported  them  to  Blal- 
sunsls,  who  promised  to  do  unto  him  even  as  he  should  ask.  Therefore  did  Mus-. 
quash  say,  "Give  unto  me  wings  like  a  pigeon."  But  the  warrior  answered,  "  Get 
tnee  hence,  thou  with  a  tail  like  a  file ;  what  need  hast  thou  of  pigeon's  wings  I  '* 
and  went  on  his  way.  Then  the  Beaver  was  angry,  and  went  forth  unto  the  camp 
of  Glooscap,  to  whom  he  told  what  he  had  done.  And  by  reason  of  these  tidings, 
Glooscap  arose  and  took  a  root  of  fern  and  sought  Malsunsis  in  the  wide  and  gloomy 
forest ;  and  when  he  had  found  him  he  smote  him  so  that  he  fell  down  dead.  "  And 
Glooscap  sang  a  song  over  him  and  lamented." 

Now,  therefore,  Glooscap  ruled  all  beasts  and  men.  And  there  came  unto  him 
three  brothers  seeking  that  he  would  give  them  great  strength  and  long  life  and 
much  stature.  Then  asked  he  of  them  whether  they  wished  these  things  that  they 
might  benefit  and  counsel  men  and  be  glorious  in  battle.  But  they  said,  "No;  we 
seek  not  the  good  of  men,  nor  care  we  for  others."  Then  he  offered  unto  them  suc- 
cess in  battle,  knowledge  and  skill  in  diseases,  or  wisdom  and  subtlety  in  counsel. 
But  they  would  not  hearken  unto  him.  Therefore  did  Glooscap  wax  angry,  and 
said:  "Go  your  ways:  you  shall  have  strength  and  stature  and  length  of  days." 
And  while  they  were  yet  in  the  way,  rejoicing,  "lo !  their  feet  became  rooted  to  the 
ground,  and  their  legs  stuck  together,  and  their  necks  shot  up,  and  they  were 
turned  into  three  cedar-trees,  strong  and  tall,  and  enduring  beyond  the  days  of  men, 
but  destitute  alike  of  all  glory  and  of  all  use." 


Occasional  glimpses  of  the  railway  are  ob':;r;red  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r^ 
is  the  lai*ge  island  of  Kennebecasis,  which  is  separated  from  the  Kingston 
peninsula  by  the  Milkish  Channel.  Then  the  spheres  of  Land's  End  are 
passed  on  the  r. ;  and  on  the  1.  is  the  estuary  of  the  Nerepls  River.  At 
this  point  the  low  (but  rocky  and  alpine)  ridge  of  the  Nerepia  Hills  crosses 
the  river,  running  N.  E.  to  Bull  Moobe  Hill,  near  the  head  of  Bellelsle 
Bay. 

The  steamer  now  changes  her  course  from  N.  W.  to  N.  E.,  and  enters  the 
Long  Beaoh,  a  broad  and  straight  expanse  of  the  river,  16  M.  long  and 
1  -  3  M.  wide.  The  shores  are  high  and  bold,  and  the  scenery  has  a  lake- 
like character.  Beyond  the  hamlets  of  Westfield  and  Greenwich  Hill,  on 
the  1.  bank,  is  the  rugged  and  forest-covered  ridge  kno:vn  as  the  DevWi 
Back,  an  off-spur  of  the  minor  Alleghany  chain  over  the  Nerepis  Valley. 
Abreast  of  the  wooded  Foster's  Island,  on  the  E.  shore,  is  a  small  ham- 
let clustered  about  a  tall-spired  church.  Caton's  Island  is  just  above  Fos- 
ter's, and  in  on  the  W.  shore  is  seen  the  pretty  little  village  of  Oak  Point 
(Lacey's  inn),  with  a  lighthouse  and  the  spire  of  the  Episcopal  church  of 
St.  Paul.    Farther  up  is  the  insulated  intervale  of  Grassy  Island,  famous 


42      BouUS, 


BELLEISLE  BAT. 


for  its  rich  hay,  which  may  be  seen  in  autumn  stacked  all  along  the  shore. 
The  steamer  now  passes  through  the  contracted  channel  off  Mistaken 
Point,  where  the  river  is  nearly  closed  by  two  narrow  peninsulas  which 
project  towards  each  other  from  the  opposite  shores. 

Bellelsle  Bay  turns  to  the  N.  E.  just  above  Mistaken  Point.  The  estnaiy  to 
nearly  hidden  by  a  low  island  and  by  a  rounded  promontory  on  ther.,  beyond  which 
the  bay  extends  to  the  N.  E  for  12  - 14  M. ,  with  a  uniform  width  of  1  M.  It  is  navi- 
gable for  the  largest  vessels,  and  is  bordered  by  wooded  hills.  On  the  S.  shore  near 
the  mouth  is  Kingston  Creek,  which  leads  S.  in  about  6  M.  to  Kingston  (two 
inna),  a  sequestered  village  of  200  inhabitants,  romantically  situated  among  the  hills 
in  the  centre  of  the  peninsular  parish  of  Kingston.  This  peninsula  preserves  an 
almost  uniform  width  of  5-  6  M.  for  30  M. ,  between  the  Kennebecasis  Bay  a  .id  river 
ontheS.  £.  and  the  Long  Reach  and  Belleisle  Bay  on  the  N.  W.  The  scenery, 
though  never  on  a  grand  scale,  is  pleasant  and  bold,  and  has  many  fine  water  views. 
A  few  miles  E.  of  Kingston  is  the  remarkable  lakelet  called  the  Pickwaakeet,  occu- 
pying an  extinct  crater  and  surrounded  by  volcanic  rocks.  This  district  was  origi- 
nally settled  by  American  Loyalists,  and  for  many  years  Kingston  was  the  capital  of 
Kings  County.    The  Tillage  is  most  easily  reached  from  Rothesay  (see  page  22). 

TennanVs  Cove  is  a  small  Baptist  village  at  the  N.  of  the  entraiice  to  the  bay ; 
whence  a  road  leads  in  5  M.  to  the  hamlet  of  Belleisle  Bay  on  the  N.  short-  (nearly 
opposite  Long  Point  village) ;  from  which  the  bay  road  runs  in  3-4  M.  to  the  larger 
Baptist  settlement  at  Spragg's  Point,  whence  much  cord-wood  is  sent  to  St.  John. 
4  M.  beyond  is  Springfield  (small  inn),  the  largest  of  the  Belleisle  villages,  situated 
near  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  7  M.  from  Morton,  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway 
(Route  16). 

At  the  h^ad  of  the  Long  Reach  a  granite  ridge  turns  the  river  to  the  N. 
and  N.  W.  and  narrows  it  for  several  miles.  4-5  M.  above  Belleisle  Bay 
Spoon  Island  is  passed,  above  which,  on  the  r.  bank,  is  the  shipbuilding 
hamlet  of  Wichham.  A  short  distance  beyond,  on  the  W,  bank,  is  Hamp- 
stead,  with  several  mills  and  a  granite-quarry.  The  shores  of  the  river 
now  become  more  low  and  level,  and  the  fertile  meadows  of  Lxmg  Island 
are  coasted  for  nearly  5  M.  This  pretty  island  is  dotted  with  elm-trees, 
and  contains  two  large  ponds.  On  the  mainland  (W.  shore),  near  its  head, 
is  the  hamlet  of  Otnabog,  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  which  empties  into  a  lake 
8  M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide,  connected  with  the  St.  John  by  a  narrow 
passage.  The  boat  next  passes  the  Lower  Musquash  Island,  containing  a 
large  pond,  and  hiding  the  outlet  of  the  Washademoak  Lake  (see  Route  9). 

**  This  part  of  the  Province,  including  the  lands  around  the  Grand  Lake  and  along 
the  Washademoak,  must  become  a  very  populous  and  rich  country.  A  great  propor- 
tion of  the  land  is  intervale  or  alluvial,  and  coal  is  found  in  great  plenty,  near  the 

Grand  Lake No  part  of  America  can  exhibit  greater  beauty  or  more  luxuriant 

fertility  than  the  lands  on  each  side,  and  the  islands  that  we  pass  in  this  distance." 
(McGregor's  British  America.) 

After  passing  the  Upper  Mnsquash  Island,  the  steamboat  rounds  in  at 
Gagetown  (2  inns),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants,  prettily  situated  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  river.  It  is  the  shire-town  of  Queen's  County,  and  is  the  shippin;- 
point  for  a  broad  tract  of  farming-country.  After  leaving  this  point,  the 
steamer  passes  between  Grimross  Neck  (1.)  and  the  level  shores  of  Cam- 
bridge (r.),  and  runs  by  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  Biver. 

About  the  year  1640  the  Irench  seigneur  erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  a 
Ibrt,  on  whose  ramparts  were  12  iron  guns  and  6  "  murtherers."    It  was  provided 


MAUGERVILLB. 


Jt<ntte  8.       43 


with  acourt  of  g^ard,  stone  barracks  and  magnzines,  a  garden,  and  a  ch&pel'*  Spaces 
square,  with  a  bell  weighing  18  pounds."  In  1654  it  was  captured  by  an  expedition 
sent  out  by  Oliver  Cromwell ;  but  was  yielded  up  by  Sir  Thomas  Temple  to  the 
Seigneur  de  Soulanges  et  Marson  in  1670.  In  1674  it  was  taken  and  plundered  by 
*'  a  Flemish  corsair."  The  Seigniory  of  Jemseg  was  granted  by  the  French  Crown  to 
the  ancient  Breton  family  of  Ikunour  des  Chaflbur.  In  1686  it  was  occurred  by  the 
seignorial  fomily,  and  in  1698  there  we  e  50  persons  settled  here  u^der  its  auspices. 
In  1739  the  lordship  of  this  district  wa  i  held  by  the  Mar<iuis  de  Yaudreuil,  who  had 
116  colonists  in  the  domain  of  Jemseg.  In  1692  it  was  made  the  capital  of  Acadia, 
under  the  command  of  M.  de  Yillebon ;  and  after  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment to  Fort  Nashwaak  (Frcdericton),  the  Jemseg  fort  suffered  the  vicissitudes  of 
British  attack, and  was  finally  abandoned.  About  the  year  1776,  600  Indian  warriors 
gathered  here,  designing  to  devastate  the  St.  John  valley,  but  were  deterred  by  the 
resolute  front  made  by  the  colonists  from  the  Oromocto  fort,  and  were  finally  ap- 
peased and  quieted  by  large  presents. 

The  Jemseg  River  is  the  outlet  of  Grand  Lake  (see  Route  10).    Beyond 

this  point  the  steamer  runs  N.  W.  by  Grimross  Island,  and  soon  passes  the 

hamlets  of  Canning  (r.)  and  Upper  Gagetown  (1.).   Above  Manger's  Island 

is  seen  the  tall  spire  of  Burton  church,  and  the  boat  calls  at  Sheffield^  the 

seat  of  the  Sheffield  Academy. 

"  The  whole  river- front  of  the  parishes  of  Maugerville,  Sheffield,  and  Water- 
borough,  an  extent  of  nearly  30  M.,  is  a  remarkably  fme  alluvial  soil,  exactly  re- 
sembling that  of  Battcrsea  fields  and  the  Twickenham  meadows,  stretching  from  the 
river  generally  about  2  M.  This  tract  of  intervale,  including  the  three  noble  islands 
opposite,  is  deservedly  called  the  Garden  of  New  Brunswick,  and  it  is  by  far  the 
most  considerable  tract  of  alluvial  soil,  formed  by  fresh  water,  in  the  Province." 

Above  Sheffield  the  steamer  passes  Middle  Island,  which  is  3  M.  long, 
and  produces  much  hay,  and  calls  at  Maugerville,  a  quiet  lowland  village 
of  300  inhabitants.  On  the  opposite  shore  is  Oromocto  (two  inns),  the 
capital  of  Sunbury  County,  a  village  of  400  inhabitants,  engaged  in  ship- 
building. It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto  River,  which  is  navigable 
for  22  M.  . 

The  settlement  of  Maugerville  was  the  first  which  was  formed  by  the  English  on 
the  St.  John  River.  It  was  established  in  1763  by  families  from  Massachusetts  and 
Connecticut,  and  had  over  100  families  in  1775.  In  May,  1776,  the  inhabitants  of 
Sunbury  County  assembled  at  Maugerville,  and  resolved  that  the  colonial  policy  of 
the  British  Parliament  was  wrong,  that  the  United  Provinces  were  justified  in  re- 
sisting it,  that  the  county  should  be  attached  to  Massachusetts,  and  that  men  and 
money  should  be  raised  for  the  American  service :  saying  also,  "  we  are  Ready  with 
our  Lives  and  fortunes  to  Share  with  them  the  Event  of  the  present  Struggle  for 
Liberty,  however  God  in  his  Providence  may  order  it."  These  resolutions  were 
signed  by  all  but  12  of  the  people ;  and  Massachusetts  soon  sent  them  a  quantity  of 
ammunition.  At  a  later  day  Col.  Eddy,  with  a  detachment  of  Mass.  troops,  ascended 
the  St.  John  River  to  Maugerville,  where  he  met  with  a  warm  welcome  and  was 
joined  by  nearly  60  men. 

Oromocto  was  in  early  days  a  favorite  resort  of  the  Indians,  one  of  whose  great 
cemeteries  has  recently  been  found  here.  When  the  hostile  tribes  concentrati  d  on 
the  J-mseg  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  and  were  preparing  to  devastate  the 
ri  ver-town«,  the  oolonidts  erected  a  largo  fortification  near  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto, 
and  took  refuge  there.  They  made  such  a  bold  front  that  the  Indians  retired  and 
disbanded,  after  having  reconnoitred  the  works. 

"  The  rich  meadows  are  decorated  with  stately  elms  and  forest  trees,  or  sheltered 
by  low  coppices  of  cranberry,  alder,  and  other  native  bushes.  Through  the  numer- 
ous openings  in  the  shrubbery,  the  visitor,  in  traversing  the  .iver,  sees  the  white 
fronts  of  the  cottages,  and  other  buildings ;  and,  from  the  constant  change  of  posi- 
tion, in  sailing,  an  almost  endless  variety  of  scenery  is  presented  to  the  traveller's 
eye.    During  the  summer  wason  the  BurfBM»  of  the  water  affords  an  interesting 


1  i: 


'111 

it 
il 


i     H 


44     Route  8. 


FREDERICTON. 


•peetacto.  Vast  nfts  of  timber  and  logs  are  alowly  moTed  downwarda  by  the  ear* 
rent.  Oa  them  is  sometimes  seen  the  shanty  of  th>  lumberman,  with  liia  fkmily,  a 
cow,  and  occasionally  a  hay8tacic,all  destined  for  the  city  below.  Nomerous  canoes 
and  boat«  are  in  moUon,  while  the  paddles  of  the  steamboat  break  the  polished  sur- 
fiice  of  the  stream  and  send  it  rippliog  to  the  shore.  In  the  midst  of  tliis  landscape 
stands  Fnetdericton,  situated  on  an  obtuse  level  point  formed  by  the  bending  of  tha 
riTer,  and  in  the  midst  of  natural  and  cultirated  scenery."    (Qunib.) 

Fredericton. 

Hotels.  Barker  House,  Queen  St. ,  9  2  a  day ;  Queen's  Hotel,  Queen  St.,  92a  day. 

Stagrc^s  leave  tri-weekly  for  Woodstock  (62  M. ;  fore,  9  2.50)  ;  and  tri-w«efcly  for 
BoiestowD  and  the  Miraniiclii  (105  M.  ;  fore,  9  6). 

Railways.  The  European  &  North  American  (branch  line)  to  St.  John,  in 
about  64  M. ;  fare,  92.  The  New  Brunswick  Railway  from  Gibson  (across  the  river) 
to  Woodstock,  Aroostook,  and  Edmundstun,  176  M.  Fare  to  Woodstock,  9  1.7o 
(page  50). 

Steamboats*  Daily  to  St.  John,  stopping  at  the  river-ports.  Fare,  9  l-fiO. 
In  the  summer  there  are  occanonal  night-boats,  leaving  Fredericton  ai  4  P.  M. 
When  the  river  has  enough  water,  steamboats  sometimes  run  from  Fredericton, 
65  -  70  M.  N.  W.  to  Woodstock  and  Grand  Falls.  Ferry -steamers  cross  to  St.  Maiy's 
at  flrequent  intervals. 

Fredericton,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick,  is  a  small 
city  pleasantly  situated  on  a  level  plain  near  the  St.  John  River.  In  1882 
it  had  6,006  inhabitants,  with  five  newspapers  and  a  bank.  It  is  prob- 
ably the  quietest  place,  of  its  size,  north  of  the  Potomac  River.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  airy,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are 
lined  with  line  old  shade  trees.  The  city  has  few  manufacturing  interests, 
but  serves  as  a  shipping-point  and  depot  of  supplies  for  the  young  settle- 
ments to  the  N.  and  W.  Its  chief  reason  for  being  is  the  presence  o£  the 
offices  of  the  Provincial  Government,  for  which  it  was  founded. 

Queen  St.  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  runs  nearly  parallel 
with  the  river.  At  its  W.  end  is  the  Government  Hottse,  a  plain  and  spa- 
cious bt(Mie  building  situated  in  a  pleasant  park,  and  used  for  the  official 
residence  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  New  Brunswick.  Nearly  in  the 
middle  of  the  city,  and  between  Queen  St.  and  the  river,  are  the  Military 
Grounds  and  Parade-ground,  with  the  large  barracks  (accommodating 
1,000  men),  which  were  formerly  the  headquarters  of  the  British  army  in 
this  Province.  Near  the  E.  end  of  Queen  St.  is  the  Parliament  Building, 
a  handsome  modern  freestone  structure,  from  whose  top  a  fine  view  is 
obtained.  It  contains,  he  spacious  halls  of  th<3  Lower  House,  Legislative 
Council,  and  Supreme  Court  (with  j  law  library).  The  Legislative 
Library,  in  a  fire-proof  building  adjacent,  contains  15,000  volumes,  includ- 
ing Louis  Philippe's  copy  of  Audubon's  "  Birds  "  (open  during  session, 
and  on  Wednesday  afternoonp).  The  chief  wealth  of  Fredericton  is  em- 
ployed in  lumbering,  and  there  are  great  booms  above  and  below  the  city, 
with  an  important  British  and  West-Indian  trade. 

*  Christ  Charoh  Cathedral  is  a  short  distance  bevond  the  Parliament 
Building,  and  is  embowered  in  a  grove  of  fine  old  trees  near  the  river 
(corner  of  Church  and  Queen  Sts.).  It  is  under  the  direct  care  of  the 
Anglican  Bishop  of  Fredericton,  and  its  style  of  construction  is  modelled 


PRBDERICTON. 


Jtauie  8.      45 


KKlstock,  $  1.7fi 


after  that  of  Christ  Chnrch  Cathedral  at  Montreal.  The  beanty  of  the 
English  Gothic  architecture,  as  here  wrought  out  in  fine  gray  stone,  is 
heightened  by  the  picturesque  eflfect  of  the  surrounding  trees.  A  stone 
spire,  178  ft.  high,  rises  from  the  junction  of  the  nave  and  transepts.  The 
interior  is  beautiful,  though  small,  and  the  chancel  is  adorned  with  a 
superb  window  of  Newcastle  stained-glass,  presented  by  the  Episcopal 
Church  in  the  United  States.  It  represents,  in  the  centre,  Christ  cruci- 
fied, with  SS.  John,  James,  and  Peter  on  the  1.,  and  SS.  Thomas,  Philip, 
and  Andrew  on  the  r.  In  the  cathedral  tower  is  a  chime  of  8  bells,  each 
of  which  bears  the  inscription  : 


**  Ave  Pater,  Rex,  Creator, 
Ave  Fill,  Liux,  Salvator, 
Ave  Spiritui  Oonaolator, 
Ave  Beata  Unitaa. 


Ave  Simplex,  Ave  Trine, 
Ave  Regnuns  in  Sublime, 
Ave  Resonet  sine  fine, 
Ave  Sancu  Trinitoa." 


St.  Ann's  is  a  pretty  Episcopal  Church,  at  the  W.  end;  and  in  1883  the 
Baptists  and  Presbyterians  erected  fine  stone  churches.  Between  Queen 
St.  and  the  river  are  the  substantial  City  Hall  and  Post-Office,  and  the 
well-equipped  Normal  School,  where  the  teachers  of  the  Province  are 
trained. 

The  University  of  New  Brunswick  is  a  substantial  freestone  building,  170 
ft.  long  and  60  ft.  wide,  occupying  a  fine  position  on  the  hills  which  sweep 
around  the  city  on  the  S.  It  was  established  by  royal  charter  in  1828, 
while  Sir  Howard  Douglas  ruled  the  Province ;  and  was  for  many  years  a 
source  of  great  strife  between  the  Episcopalians  and  the  other  sects,  the 
latter  making  objection  to  the  absorption  by  the  Anglicans  of  an  institu- 
tion which  had  been  paid  for  by  the  whole  people.  It  is  fairly  endowed 
by  the  Province,  and  does  an  important  work  in  carrying  on  the  higher 
education  of  the  countr}-,  despite  the  competition  of  denominational  col- 
leges.   The  view  from  the  University  is  thus  described  by  Prof.  Johnston : 

"  From  the  high  ground  above  Fredericton  I  again  felt  how  very  delightflil  it  is  to 
feast  the  eyes,  weary  of  stony  barrens  and  perpetual  pines,  upon  the  beautifUl  river 
St  John Calm,  broad,  clear,  just  visibljr  flowing  on  ;  full  to  its  banlcs,  and  re- 
flecting from  its  surfjuse  the  graceful  American  elms  which  at  intervals  fHnge  its 
shores,  it  has  all  the  beauty  of  a  long  lake  without  its  lifelessness.  But  its  acces- 
Eories  are  as  yet  chiefly  those  of  nature,  —  wooded  ranges  of  hills  varied  in  outline, 
now  retiring  from  and  now  approaching  the  water's  edge,  with  an  occasioned  clear- 
ing, and  a  rare  white-washed  house,  with  its  still  more  rarely  visible  inhabitants, 

and  stray  cattle In  some  respects  this  view  of  the  St.  John  recalled  to  my 

mind  some  of  the  points  on  the  Russian  river  (Neva) :  though  among  European 

^scenery,  in  its  broad  waters  and  forests  of  pines,  it  most  resembled  the  tamer  por- 

"^  Ions  of  the  sea-arms  and  fiords  of  Sweden  and  Norway." 

St.  Mary^s  and  Nashwaaksis  are  opposite  Fredericton,  on  the  1.  bank  of 

phe  St  John,  and  are  reached  by  a  steam-ferry.    Here  is  the  terminus  of 

the  New  Brunswick  Railway  (to  Woodstock)  ;  and  here  also  are  the  great 

riumber-mills  of  Mr.  Gibson,  with  the  stately  church  and  comfortable 

(homes  which  he  has  erected  for  his  workmen.    Nearly  opposite  the  city 

is  seen  the  mouth  of  the  Nashwaak  Fiver,  whose  valley  was  settled  by 

lisbanded  soldiers  of  tlie  old  Black  Watch  (42d  Highlanders). 


'ijli  i 


1  It 


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il  t 


46  .   RtntteS. 


FREDBRICTON. 


In  the  yew  16S0  the  Trench  goTernment  lent  ont  the  Cherftlkr  de  Tillehon  M 
GoTemor  of  Acadia.  When  he  arrired  at  Port  Royal  (Annapolis),  his  capital,  he 
found  that  Sir  William  Phipps'e  New-England  fleet  had  recently  captiued  and  de- 
stroyed Its  fortifications,  so  he  ascended  the  St.  John  River  and  soon  fixed  his  capi- 
tal at  Natthwaak,  where  he  remained  for  ecTeral  years,  organizing  Indian  forays  on 
the  settlements  of  Maine. 

In  October,  1696,  an  Anglo-American  army  ascended  the  St.  John  In  the  ships 
Arundel,  Province,  and  others,  and  laid  siege  to  Fort  Nashwaak.  The  Chevalier  de 
TiUebon  drew  up  his  garrison,  and  addressed  them  with  enthusiasm,  and  the  de- 
tachments were  put  in  charge  of  the  Sieurs  de  la  Cote,  Tibierge,  and  Glignancourt. 
The  British  royal  standard  was  displayed  over  the  besiegers'  works,  and  for  three 
days  a  heavy  fire  of  artillery  and  musketry  was  kept  up.  The  precision  of  the  fire 
from  La  Gate's  battery  dinmounted  the  hostile  guns,  and  after  seeing  the  Sieur  de 
Falaise  reinforce  the  fort  from  Quebec,  the  British  gave  up  the  siege  and  retreated 
down  the  river. 

The  village  of  St.  Anne  was  erected  here,  nnder  the  protection  of  Fort  Nashwaak. 
Its  site  had  been  visited  by  De  Monts  in  1604,  during  his  exploration  of  the  river. 
In  1767  (and  later)  the  place  was  crowded  with  Acadian  refugees  fleeing  from  the 
stem  visitations  of  angry  New  England  on  the  Minas  and  Port  Royal  districts.  In 
1784  came  the  exiled  American  Loyalists,  who  drove  away  the  Acadians  into  the 
wilderness  of  Madawaska,  and  settled  along  these  shores.  During  the  following 
year  Gov.  Guy  Carleton  established  the  capital  of  the  Province  here,  in  view  of  the 
central  location  and  pleasant  natural  ligatures  of  the  place.  Since  the  formation  of 
the  Canadian  Dominion,  and  the  consequent  withdrawal  of  the  British  garrison, 
Fredericton  has  become  dorr^ant. 

7  M.  abote  Fredericton  is  Aukpaque,  the  favorite  home-district  of  the  ancient 
Indians  of  the  river.  The  uaaie  signifies  "  a  beautiful  expanse  of  the  river  caused 
by  numerous  islands."  On  the  island  of  Sandous  were  the  fortifications  and  quar- 
ters of  the  American  forces  in  1777,  when  the  St.  John  River  was  held  by  the  expe- . 
dition  of  Col.  Allan.  They  reached  Aukpaque  on  the  5th  of  June,  and  saluted  the 
new  American  flag  with  salvos  of  artillery,  while  the  resident  Indians,  under  Am- 
brose St.  Aubin,  their  "august  and  noble  chief,''  welcomed  them  and  their  cause. 
They  patrolled  the  river  with  guard-boats,  aided  the  patriot  residents  on  the  banks, 
and  watched  the  mouth  of  St.  John  harbor.  After  the  camp  on  Aukpaque  had 
been  established  about  a  month  it  was  broken  up  by  a  British  naval  force  from 
below,  and  Col.  Allan  led  away  about  &(X)  people,  patriot  Provincials,  Indians,  and 
their  families.  This  great  exodus  is  one  of  the  most  romantic  and  yet  least  known 
incidents  of  the  American  borders.  It  was  conducted  by  canoes  up  the  St.  John  to 
the  ancient  French  trading-post  called  Fort  Meductic,  whence  they  carried  their 
boats,  families,  and  household  goods  across  a  long  portage  ;  then  they  ascended  the 
rapid  Eel  River  to  its  reservoir-lake,  from  whose  head  another  portage  of  4  M.  led 
them  to  North  Pond.  The  long  procesFion  of  exiles  next  defiled  into  the  Grand 
Lake,  and  encamped  for  several  days  at  its  outlet,  after  which  they  descended  the 
Ghiputneticook  Lake  and  the  St.  Croix  River,  passed  into  the  Lower  Schoodic  I<ake, 
and  thence  carried  their  families  and  goods  to  the  head-waters  ol"  the  Maohias  River. 
Floating  down  that  stream,  they  reached  Machias  i  in  time  to  aid  in  beating  off  the 
British  squadron  ftom  that  town. 


From  Fredericton  to  the  Miramicki.     Through  the  Forest, 

The  Royal  Mail-stnge  leaves  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday, 
a  very  early  hour,  and  the  passenger  gets  breakfast  at  Eastman's,  an, 
sleeps  at  Frazer's.    The  trip  requires  2  days,  and  costs  $6  (exclusive  of 
hotels),  and  the  iistance  from  Fredericton  to  Newcastle  is  105  M.     By  far 
the  greater  part  of  the  route  leads  through  an  unbroken  forest,  and  the 
road  leaves  much  to  be  desired.     After  crossing  the  ferry  at  Fredericton 

1  itacMaa  is  said  to  be  derived  from  the  French  word  Maga  (meanini^  the  Magi),  sad  it 
U  held  that  it  was  discovered  b/  the  ancient  Freacn  explorers  on  the  Festnral  of  <ta    *'    ' 


WASHADEMOAK  LAKE. 


RcuU  9,      47 


the  route  lies  due  N.  and  is  as  straight  as  an  arrow  for  9  M.,  when  It  reaches 
Nashwaak  Village  (small  inn);  thence  it  follows  the  Na&hwaak  River  for 
6  M.,  to  the  hamlet  of  Nashwaak,  above  which  it  enters  a  wild  country 
about  the  head-waters  of  the  river.  To  the  W.  are  the  immense  domains 
of  the  New  Brunswick  Land  Company,  on  which  a  few  struggling  settle- 
ments are  located.  In  the  earlier  days  there  was  a  much-travelled  route 
between  the  St.  John  valley  and  the  Miramichi  waters,  by  way  of  the 
Nashwaak  River,  from  whose  upper  waters  a  portage  was  made  to  the 
adjacent  streams  of  the  Miramichi  (see  "Vacation  Tourists,"  for  1862-8, 
pp.  464-474).  At  about  40  M.  from  Fredericton  the  stage  reaches  Boies- 
town  (small  inn),  a  lumbering-village  of  250  inhabitants,  on  the  S.  W. 
Miramichi  River.  This  place  was  founded  in  1822,  by  Thomas  Boies  and 
120  Americans,  but  has  become  decadent  since  the  partial  exhaustion  of 
the  forests.  The  road  now  follows  the  coarse  of  the  S.  W.  Miramichi, 
passing  the  hamlets  of  Ludlow,  52  M.  from  Fredericton  ;  Doaktown,  56 
M.;  Blissfield,  62;  Dunphy,  73;  Blackville,  79;  Indiantown  (Renous  River), 
87;  Derby,  96;  and  Newcastle,  105  (see  Route  15). 

9.  Washademoak  Lake. 

Stenmboatfl  ooeaMonally  mn  from  St.  John  to  this  point,  a  distance  of  60  M.    A 
regular  line  formerly  plied  on  this  route,  but  it  was  given  up,  some  years  since. 


The  steamboat  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  39)  to  the  upper 
end  of  Long  Island,  where  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.  in  a  narrow  passage  be- 
tween the  Lower  Musquash  Island  and  the  shores  of  Wickham.  On  either 
side  are  wide  rich  intervales,  over  which  the  spring  inundations  spread 
fertilizing  soil ;  and  the  otherwise  monotonous  landscape  is  enlivened  by 
clusters  of  elms  and  maples.  After  following  this  passage  for  l^M.,  the 
steamer  enters  the  Washademoak  Lake,  at  this  point  nearly  2  M.  wide. 
The  Washademoak  is  not  properly  a  lake,  but  is  the  broadening  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  which  maintains  a  width  of  from  ^  M.  to  2  M. 
from  Cole's  Island  to  its  mouth,  a  distance  of  25-30  M.  It  is  deep  and 
still,  and  has  but  little  current.  In  the  spring-time  and  autumn  rafts  de- 
jwend  the  lake  from  the  upper  rivers  and  from  the  head- waters  of  the 
jcagne,  and  pass  down  to  St.  John,  The  scenery  is  rather  tame,  being 
jat  of  alluvial  lowlands,  diversified  only  by  scattered  trees.  There  are 
small  hamlets  on  the  shores,  with  from  150  to^250  inhabitants  each, 
ost  of  them  being  on  the  E.  shore.  The  people  are  engaged  in  farming 
[d  in  freighting  cord-wood  to  St.  John.  About  6  M.  above  McDonald's 
^int,  Lewis  Cove  opens  to  the  S.  E.,  running  down  for  about  3  M.  into  the 
rish  of  Wickham ;  and  4  -  5  M.  farther  on  are  the  Narrows,  where  the 
^e  is  nearly  cut  in  two  by  a  bold  bluflf  projecting  from  the  E.  shore. 
h's  Island  has  about  ^,00  inhabitants,  and  a  small  hotel.    It  is  20  M. 


48      Jtouie  JO, 


GRAND  LAKE. 


from  Apohaqni,  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  Roads  ran  across  the  p<»- 
ninsnla  on  the  N.  W.  to  Grand  Lake  in  5-7  M.  It  i'  88  M.  from  Cole's 
Island  to  P'^titcodiac,  on  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  by  way  of  Brookvale, 
The  Forks,  and  New  Canaan.  The  Washademoak  region  has  no  attrac- 
tions for  the  summer  tourist. 

10.  Grand  Lake. 

The  riTer-steamer  Fatcn  leaves  St.  John  (Indiantown)  on  Wednesday  and  Sat^T- 
day  at  8  a.m.,  for  Grand  Lake  and  the  Salmon  River.  The  distance  is  86  M. ;  the 
£ire  is  $  1.50.  She  leaves  Salmon  River  on  Monday  and  Thursday  mornings ;  and 
touches  at  Oagetown  in  ascending  and  descending.  ^ 

Grand  Lake  is  80  M.  long  and  from  8  to  9  M.  w<de.  It  has  a  tide  of  6 
inclies,  caused  by  the  backwater  of  the  St.  John  River,  thrown  up  by  the 
high  tides  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  shores  are  low  and  uninteresting, 
and  are  broken  by  several  deep  coves  and  estuaries.  There  are  numerous 
hamlets  on  each  side,  but  they  are  all  small  and  have  an  air  of  poverty. 
It  is  reasonably  hoped,  however,  that  these  broad  alluvial  plains  will  be- 
come, in  a  few  decades,  the  home  of  i  large  and  prosperous  population. 

The  lands  in  this  vicinity  were  granted  at  an  early  date  to  the  Sieur  de  Frenense, 
a  young  Parisian,  the  son  of  that  Sieur  de  Clignancourt  who  was  so  active  in  settling 
the  St.  Jonn  valley  and  in  defending  it  against  the  New-£nglanders.  On  Charle- 
▼oix^B  map  (dated  1744)  Grand  Lake  is  called  Lac  Freneuse,tind  a  village  of  the  same 
name  is  indicated  as  being  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  These  ishores  were  a  favorite  camp- 
ing-ground of  the  ancient  Milicete  Indians,  whose  descendants  occasionally  visit 
Grand  Lake  in  pursuit  of  muskrats.  The  lumber  business,  always  baneful  to  the 
agricultural  interests  of  a  new  country,  has  slackened  on  account  of  the  exhaustion 
of  the  forest.'}  on  the  Salmon  River ;  and  it  is  now  thought  that  a  iaroiing  population 
wiU  crt'lons:  c\:<rupy  tlie  Grand  Lake  country. 

The  sttepTuer  ascends  the  St.  John  River  (see  page  39)  as  far  as  Gage- 
town,  where  it  makes  a  brief  stop  (other  landings  on  the  lower  river  are 
sometimes  visited).  She  then  crosses  to  the  mouth  of  the  Jemseg  (see 
page  48),  where  the  Jemseg  River  is  entered,  and  is  followed  through  its 
narrow,  tortuous,  and  picturesque  course  of  4  M.  This  is  the  most  inter- 
esting part  of  the  journey.  When  nearly  through  the  passage  the  bont 
stops  before  the  compact  hamlet  of  Jemseg,  occupying  the  slope  of  a  hill 
on  the  r.  On  entering  the  lake,  a  broad  expanse  of  still  water  is  seen  in 
front,  with  low  and  level  shores  denuded  of  trees.  On  the  1.  is  Scotch' 
toum  (150  inhabitants),  near  which  is  a  channel  cut  through  the  alluvium, 
leading  (in  2  M.)  to  Maquapit  Lake,  which  is  5  M.  long  and  2-8  M.  wide. 
This  channel  is  called  the  Thoroughfare ;  is  passable  by  large  boats ;  and 
leads  through  groves  of  elm,  birch,  and  maple  trees.  1  M.  from  the  W. 
end  of  Maquapit  Lake  is  French  Lake,  accessible  by  another  "  Thorough- 
fare," and  8-4  M.  long,  nearly  divided  by  a  long,  low  point.  This  lake  is 
6-6  M.  from  Sheffield,  on  the  St.  John  River. 

The  channel  is  marked  out  by  poles  rising  from  the  flats  on  either  side. 
(The  course  of  the  steamer  is  liable  to  variation,  and  is  here  described  as 
followed  by  the  Editor.)    RobinsGu*s  Point  is  first  visited,  with  its  white 


GRAND  LAKB. 


Jiouie  11,      49 


1  acrou  the  p«- 
M.  from  Cole's 
y  of  Brookvaie, 
1  has  no  attrac- 


lesday  and  Sat^T- 
LDce  is  86  M. ;  the 
ly  morniogs ;  and 

t  has  a  tide  of  6 
rown  up  by  the 
i  uninteresting, 
re  are  numerous 
I  air  of  poverty. 
1  plains  will  be- 
s  population. 

Sieur  de  Frenense, 
>  active  in  settling 
iders.  On  Cliarie- 
tillage  of  the  same 
«  a  favorite  camp- 
occasionally  visit 
^8  baneful  to  the 
of  the  exhaustion 
miing  population 

as  far  as  Gage- 
lower  river  are 
he  Jemseg  (see 
ived  through  its 
the  most  inter- 
issage  the  boat 
I  slope  of  a  hill 
(vater  is  seen  in 
le  1.  is  Scotch- 
1  the  alluvium, 

2-8  M.  Avide. 
rge  boats;  and 
from  the  W. 

r  "  Thorough- 
It.   This  lake  is 

I  on  either  side. 

re  described  as 

with  its  white 


lighthonse  rising  firom  the  E.  shore;  and  the  steamer  passes  anmnd  into 

White**  Covef  where  there  is  a  farming  settlement  of  200  inhabitants. 

[Thence  the  lake  is  crossed  to  the  N.  to  Keyhole,  a  curions  little  harbor 

near  the  villages  of  Maquapit  and  Douglas  Harbor.    After  visiting  Mill 

Cove  and  Wiggin's  Cove,  on  the  E.  shore,  and  Young's  Cove  (3  inns),  the 

I  boat  rounds  Cumberland  Point  and  ascends  the  deep  Cumberland  Bay,  at 

!  whose  head  is  a  populous  farming  settlement.     On  the  way  out  of  the  bay 

Cox's  Point  is  visited,  and  then  the  narrowing  waters  at  the  head  of  the 

lake  are  entered.    At  Newcastle  and  other  points  in  this  vicinity,  attempts 

have  been  made  at  coal-mining.    Tb  district  about  the  head  of  Grand 

Lake  covers  an  area  of  40  square  m  ad  the  coal  is  said  to  be  of  good 

quality  and  in  thick  seams.     But  1  et  been  done  in  the  way  of 

mining,  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  tr  the  coal  to  market. 

Soon  after  passing  Newcastle  Crec.  ilie  steamer  ascends  the  N.  E.  arm, 
rounds  a  long,  low  point,  and  enters  the  Salmon  Biver*  This  stream  is 
ascended  for  several  miles,  through  the  depressing  influences  of  ruined 
forests  not  yet  replaced  by  farms.  Beyond  Ironbound  Cove  and  the  Coal 
Mines,  the  boat  ties  up  for  the  night  at  a  backwoods  settlement,  where  the 
traveller  must  go  ashore  and  sleep  in  a  room  reserved  for  wayfarers  in  an 
adjacent  cottage. 

Brigg^s  Comer  is  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and  a  road  runs  thence  N.  E.  across 
the  wilderness  to  Richibucto,  in  50-60  M.  It  is  stated  by  good  authority  that  the 
fishing  in  the  Salmon  River  has  been  ruined  by  the  lumber-mills ;  but  tliat  wry 
good  sport  may  be  found  on  the  Lake  Stream,  15-20  M.  beyond  Brigg's  Corner. 
Visitors  to  this  district  must  be  provided  vrith  full  camp-equipage.  A  road  also 
leads  N.  W.  fh)m  Brigg's  Comer  (diverging  from  the  Uchibucto  nwd  at  Qaspereau) 
to  Missville,  on  the  S.  W.  Miramichi,  in  about  40  M. 

IL   Fredericton  to  Woodstock. 

By  the  Xew  Brunswick  Railway ,  which  is  now  completed  to  Edmnndston. 
The  company  hopes  that  the  line  will  be  carried  through  to  Riviere  du  Loup,  on 
the  St.  Lawrence,  at  no  distant  date. 

Stations.  —  Oibson ;  St  Mary's,  1  M.;  Douglas,  8;  Springhill,  6};  Rockland, 
10;  Keswick,  12;  Cardigan,  16^;  Lawrence,  I7i ;  Zealand,  20;  Stoneridge,  22^; 
Burnside,  26 ;  Upper  Keswick,  28i ;  Burt  Lake,  32 ;  Haynesville,  S6^ ;  Millville,  88i ; 
Nackawic,  43 ;  Falls  Brook,  48 ;  Woodstock  Junction,  52 ;  Newburgh,  57 ;  River- 
side, 60 ;  Northampton,  61^.    Fare  firom  Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  $  1.75. 

Beyond  Woodstock  Junction  the  New  Brunswick  Railway  runs  N.  to  Hartland 
(61  M.  firom  Fredericton)  and  to  Florenceville  (71  M.),  and  thence  to  Tobique  and 
the  upper  St.  John  valley. 

The  traveller  crosses  the  St.  John  River  by  the  steam  ferry-boat  (5  c.), 
from  Fredericton  to  Gibson ;  and  the  terminal  station  of  the  railway  is 
near  the  ferrr-Ianding.   As  the  train  moves  out,  pleasant  views  are  afforded 
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33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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50      Route  11    FREDEBICTON  TO  WOODSTOCK. 


of  the  prosperoQA  and  happy  MtQementa  which  have  been  fonnded  hereby 
Mr.  Gibson,  the  lumber-merchant.  Glimpses  of  Fredoricton  are  obtained 
on  the  L,  and  beyond  St.  Mary's  the  Nashwaaksis  River  is  crossed.  Then 
foUows  a  succession  of  beautiful  views  (to  the  1.)  over  the  wide  and  placid 
St.  .John,  dotted  with  numerous  large  and  level  islands,  upon  which  are 
dusters  of  graceful  trees.  On  the  farther  shore  is  seen  the  village  of 
SpringhiU  (see  page  61) ;  and  the  broad  expanse  of  Sugar  Island  crosses 
the  river  a  little  way  above.  At  about  10  M.  from  Fredericton  the  line 
changes  its  course  from  W.  to  N.W.,  and  leaves  tlie  St.  John  valley, 
ascending  the  valley  of  the  Keswick,  —  a  district  which  is  beginning  to 
show  the  rewards  of  the  arduous  labors  of  its  early  pioneers.  The  Keswick 
Valley  was  settled  in  1788,  by  the  disbanded  American-loyalist  corps  of  New 
York  and  the  Royal  Guides,  and  their  descendants  are  now  attacking  the 
remoter  back-country.  The  Keswick  flows  through  a  pleasant  region,  and 
has  bold  features,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  escarped  wall  of  sandstone  on 
the  1.  bank,  reaching  for  8  - 10  M.  from  its  mouth.  From  Cardigan  station 
a  road  leads  into  the  old  Welsh  settlement  of  Cardigan. 

The  line  next  passes  Bevenl  statioua  on  the  old  donidn  of  the  New  Brunswick 
Land  Company,  an  asiociation  which  was  incorporated  by  royal  charter  before  1810, 
and  purchase  from  the  Crown  660,000  acres  in  York  County.  They  established 
their  capital  and  chief  agency  at  the  village  of  Stanley,  opened  roads  through  the 
forest,  settled  a  large  company  of  i)eople  from  the  Isle  of  Skyeupon  their  lands,  and 
expended  8600,000  in  vain  attempts  to  coloniae  this  district. 

The  country  now  traversed  by  the  line  seems  desolate  and  unpromising, 
and  but  few  signs  of  civilization  are  visible.  This  forest-land  is  left  be- 
hind, and  the  open  valley  of  the  St  John  is  approached,  beyond  JVieto- 
burgh.  For  the  last  few  miles  of  the  .journey  beautiful  views  are  given 
fVom  the  high  grades  of  the  line,  including  the  river  and  its  intervales  and 
surrounding  hills.  The  St.  John  River  is  crossed  by  a  long  wooden  rail- 
way bridge. 

Wooditook  {American  House,  comfortable),  the  capital  of  Carleton 
County,  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  John  and  Meduxnekeag 
Rivers,  in  the  centre  of  a  thriving  agricultural  district.  The  population  is 
over  2,000,  and  the  town  is  favorably  situated  on  a  high  bluff  over  the  St. 
John  River.  The  Episcopal  Church  of  St.  Luke  and  the  Catholic  Church 
of  St.  Gertrude  are  on  Main  St.,  where  are  also  the  chief  buildings  of  the 
town.  The  academy  called  Woodstock  College  is  located  here.  The 
country  in  this  vicinity  is  very  attractive  in  summer,  and  is  possessed  of  a 
rich  rural  beauty  which  is  uncommon  in  these  Provinces.  The  soil  is  a 
calcareous  loam,  producing  more  fruit  and  cereal  grains  than  any  other 
part  of  New  Brunswick.  The  bold  bluffs  over  the  St.  John  are  generally  well- 
wooded,  and  the  intervales  bear  much  hay  and  grain.  There  are  large  saw- 
mills at  the  mouth  of  the  Meduxnekeag,  where  the  timber  which  is  cut  on 
it*  upper  waters,  in  Maine,  is  made  into  lumber.    12  M.  from  Woodstock 


WOODSTOCK. 


JtmUe  IS,      61 


is  the  American  village  of  HoulUm^  the  capital  of  Aroostook  Gotinty,  M«ini& ; 
and  the  citizens  of  the  two  towns  are  in  such  close  social  relations  that 
Woodstock  bears  great  resemblance  to  a  Yankee  town,  both  in  its  archi- 
tecture and  its  society. 

"  Of  the  quality  of  the  Woodstock  iron  it  is  impossible  to  speak  too  highly,  eqie- 
cially  for  making  steel,  and  it  is  eagerly  sought  by  the  armor^plate  manu&turers  in 
England.  On  six  different  trials,  plates  of  Woodstock  iron  were  only  slightly  ia- 
dented  by  an  Armstrong  shot,  which  shattered  to  pieces  scrap-iron  plates  of  the  best 
quality  and  of  similar  thickness.  When  cast  it  has  a  fine  silver-gray  color,  is  singu- 
larly close-grained,  and  rings  like  steel  on  being  struck.  A  cubic  inch  of  Wood- 
stock iron  weighs  22  per  cent  more  than  the  like  quantity  of  Swedish,  Russian,  or 
East  Indian  iron."  (Hon.  Arthub  Gordon.)  The  mines  are  some  distance  firam 
the  village,  and  are  being  worked  efficiently,  their  products  being  much  used  for  the 
British  iroa-clad  frigates. 

The  N.  B.  &  C.  Railway  runs  S.  fh>m  Woodstock  to  St.  Stephen  and  St.  Andrews 
(see  page  38);  fare,  $2.90.  The  N.  B.  Railway  goes  S.  E.  to  Fredericton;  Aire, 
1 1.76.  Steamers  run  to  Fredericton  and  to  Qrand  Falls,  when  the  river  is  high 
enough.    Trains  run  N.  to  Qrand  Falls,  and  W.  to  Honlton. 


12.  Fredericton  to  Woodstock,  by  the  St  John  Biver. 

During  the  spring  and  autumn,  when  there  is  enough  water  In  the  river,  this 
route  is  served  by  steamboats.  At  other  times  the  journey  may  be  made  by.the 
mail-stage.  The  distance  is  62  M. ;  the  fare  is  92.50.  The  stage  is  uncovered,  and 
hence  is  undesirable  as  a  means  of  conveyance  except  in  pleasant  weather.  Most 
travellers  will  prefer  to  pass  between  Fredericton  and  Woodstock  by  the  new  rail- 
way (see  Route  11).  The  stage  passes  up  the  S.  and  W.  side  of  the  river.  The  en- 
suing itinerary  speaks  of  the  river-villages  in  their  order  of  location,  without  zefSBT* 
ence  to  the  stations  of  the  stages  and  steamboats. 

Distances.  —  Fredericton  to  Springhill,  5  M. ;  Lower  French  Tillage,  9 ;  Bris- 
tol (Kingaclear),  16 ;  Lower  Prince  William,  21 ;  Prince  William,  26 ;  Dumfries,  82 ; 
Pokiok  Falls,  ^ ;  Lower  Canterbury, 44 ;  Cuiterbury,61 ;  Lower  Woodstock ;  WVwd- 
stock,  62. 

On  leaving  Fredericton,  pleasant  prospects  of  the  city  and  its  Nash- 
waak  suburbs  are  afforded,  and  successions  of  pretty  views  are  obtained 
over  the  rich  alluvial  islands  which  fill  the  river  for  over  7  M.,  up  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Keswick  River.  SpringhiU  (S.  shore)  is  the  first  village, 
and  has  aboat  250  inhabitants,  with  an  Episcopal  church  and  a  small  inn. 
The  prolific  intervales  of  Sugar  Island  are  seen  on  the  r.,  nearly  closing 
the  estuary  of  the  Keswick,  and  the  road  passes  on  to  the  Indian  village, 
where  reside  26  families  of  the  Milicete  tribe.  A  short  distance  beyond 
is  the  Lower  French  Village  (McKinley's  inn),  inhabited  by  a  farming 
population  descended  from  the  old  Acadian  fugitives.  The  road  and  river 
now  run  to  the  S.  W.,  through  the  rural  parish  of  Kingsclear,  which  was 
settled  in  1784  by  the  2d  Battalion  of  New  Jersey  Loyalists.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  of  Bristol  (Kingsclear)  Burgoyne's  Ferry  is  reached,  and  the  scat- 
tered cottages  of  Lower  Queensbury  are  seen  on  the  N.  shore.  After 
crossing  Long's  Creek  the  road  and  river  turn  to  the  N.  W.,  and  soon 
reach  the  village  of  Lower  Prince  WUliam  (Wason's  inn).  9  M.  S.  W:  of 
this  point  is  a  settlement  amid  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Lake  Oeorge, 
where  an  antimony-mine  is  being  worked;  8  M.  beyond  which  is  Magnndy 
(small  inn),  to  the  W.  of  Lake  George. 


52      Route  It 


FORT  MEDUCnC. 


II 


I 


The  road  passes  on  to  Prince  William,  throngh  a  parish  which  was 
originally  settled  by  the  King's  American  Dragoons,  and  is  now- occupied 
by  their  (descendants.  On  the  N.  shore  are  the  hilly  uplands  of  the  parish 
of  Queensbury,  which  were  settled  by  the  disbanded  men  of  the  Queen's 
Bangers,  after  the  Revolutionary  War.  Rich  intervale  islands  are  seen  in 
the  river  between  these  parishes.  Beyond  Dumfries  (small  hotel)  the 
hamlet  of  Upper  Queensbury  is  seen  on  the  N.  shore,  and  the  river  sweeps 
around  a  broad  bend  at  whose  head  is  Pokiok,  with  large  lumber-mills, 
8  M.  from  AUandale.  There  is  a  fine  piece  of  scenery  here,  where  the 
River  Pokiok  (an  Indian  word  meaning  "the  Dreadful  Place  "),  the  out- 
let of  Lake  George,  enters  the  St.  John.  The  river  first  plunges  over  a 
perpendicular  fall  of  40  ft.  and  then  enters  a  fine  gorge,  1,200  ft.  long,  75  ft. 
deep,  and  25  ft.  wide,  cut  through  opposing  ledges  of  dark  rock.  The 
Pokiok  bounds  down  this  chasm,  from  step  to  step,  until  it  reaches  the 
St.  John,  and  afibrds  a  beautiful  sight  in  time  of  high  water,  although 
its  current  is  often  encumbered  with  masses  of  riff-raff  and  rubbish  from 
the  saw-mills  above.  The  gorge  should  be  inspected  from  below,  although 
it  cannot  b.e  ascended  along  the  bottom  on  account  of  the  velocity  of  the 
contracted  stream.  About  4  M.  from  Pokiok  (and  nearer  to  Dumfries)  is 
the  pretty  highland  water  of  Prince  William  Lake,  which  is  nearly  2  M. 
in  diameter. 

Lower  Canterbury  (inn)  is  about  5  M.  beyond  Pokiok,  and  is  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Sheogomoc  River,  flowing  out  from  a  lake  of  the  same  name. 
At  Canterbury  (Hoyt's  inn)  the  Eel  River  is  crossed;  and  about  5  M.  be- 
yond, the  road  passes  the  site  of  the  old  French  works  of  Fort  Meductic. 

This  fort  commanded  the  portage  between  the  St.  John  and  the  route  by  the  upper 
Eel  River  and  the  Eel  and  North  Lakes  to  the  Gbiputneticook  Lakes,  and  Pa^sania- 
quoddy  Bay.  Portions  of  these  portages  are  marked  by  deep  pathways  worn  in  the 
rocks  by  the  moccaeons  of  many  generations  of  Indian  hunters  and  warriors.  By 
this  route  marched  the  devastating  savage  troops  of  the  Chevalier  ^illehon  to 
many  a  merciless  foray  on  the  New  England  borders.  The  land  i  ■^  vicinity, 
and  the  lordship  of  the  Milicete  town  at  Sleductic ,  were  granted  in  IC  a  the  Sieur 
CUgnancourt,  the  bravo  Parisian  who  aided  in  repelling  the  troope  of  Massachusetts 
from  the  fort  on  the  Jemseg.  Here,  also,  during  high  water,  ehe  Indians  were 
obliged  to  make  a  portage  around  the  Meductic  Kupids,  and  the  command  of  this 
point  was  deemed  of  great  importance  and  value.  (See  alfo  the  account  of  Allan's 
retreat,  on  page  46.) 

Off  this  point  are  the  Meductic  Rapids,  where  the  steamboats  sometimes 
find  it  difficult  to  make  headway  against  the  descending  waters,  accel- 
erated by  a  slight  incline.  The  road  now  runs  N.  through  the  pleasant 
valley  of  the  St.  John,  with  hill-ranges  on  either  side.  Lower  Woodstock 
is  a  prosperous  settlement  of  about  500  inhabitants,  and  the  road  soo* 
approaches  the  N.  B.  Railway  (see  page  37),  and  runs  between  that  line 
and  the  river. 

"  The  approach  to  Woodstock,  from  the  old  church  upwards,  is  one  of  the  pleas- 
sntest  drives  in  the  Province,  the  road  being  shaded  on  either  side  with  fine  trees 
and  the  comfortable  fbrm-houses  and  gardens,  the  scattered  clumps  of  wood,  the 


FLORENCEVILLE. 


RotUe  13'       53 


rish  which  was 
is  now- occupied 
ids  of  the  parish 
I  of  the  Queen's 
ands  are  seen  in 
imall  hotel)  the 
the  river  sweeps 
je  lumber-mills, 
here,  where  the 
lace"),  the  out- 
plunges  over  a 
100  ft.  long,  76  ft. 
lark  rock.  The 
il  it  reaches  the 
water,  although 
id  rubbish  from 
below,  although 
e  velocity  of  the 
r  to  Dumfries)  is 
1  is  nearly  2  M. 

and  is  nfear  the 
the  same  name, 
i  about  5  M.  be- 
Vort  Meductic. 

route  by  the  upper 

kes.and  PaHsania- 

iways  worn  in  the 

and  warriors.    By 

er        *^illebon  to 

i         '^  vicinity, 

IC       0  the  Sieur 

of  Massachusetts 

the  Indians  were 

command  of  this 

iccount  of  Allan's 

)oat&  sometimes 
waters,  accel- 

»h  the  pleasant 

ower  Woodstock 
the  road  soo* 

tweeu  that  line 


one  of  the  pleas- 
e  with  fine  trees 
ps  of  wood,  th< 


windings  of  the  great  river,  the  picturesqne  knolls,  and  the  gay  appearance  of  the 
pretty  straggling  little  town,  all  giving  an  air  of  a  long-settled,  peaceful,  English- 
looking  country."    (Qobdon.) 

13.  Woodstock  to  Grand  Falls  and  Bivi^re  du  Loup. 

The  New-BrunsTvick  Railway  runs  up  the  valley,  from  Woodstock  to 
EdniuudHton,  through  a  rather  picturesque  and  diversified  country,  with  charming 
river-vie wa,  and  furnishing  access  to  very  good  fishing-grounds.  Along  the  76  M., 
where  the  St.  .lohn  forms  the  international  boundary,  extending  froui  2^  M.  above 
Onind  Falls  to  Edmundston,  the  scenery  is  very  pleasing,  with  bold  bills  enclosing 
lake-like  reaches  of  river,  graceful  inlands,  and  fair  meadows. 

Stations.  —  Woodstock  to  Upper  Woodstock,  2  M. ;  Newburgh  Junction,  6; 
Hartland,  13;  Peel,  17;  Florenceville,  23 ;  Kent,  26;  Bath,  29;  Muniac,41;  Perth, 
49 ;  Andover  (Tobique),  61 ;  Aroostook,  65  (branch  hence  to  Fort  Fairfield,  7  M. ; 
E.Lyndon,  14;  Caribou,  10;  Presque  Isle,  34);  Grand  Falls,  73;  St.  Leonard's, 
87 ;  Green  River,  104 ;  St.  Basil,  107  ;  Edmundston,  113. 

It  is  80  M.  by  stage  from  Edmundston  to  Uivi&re  du  Loup,  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence {9  b). 

The  road  from  Woodt^tock  to  Florenceville  is  pleasant  and  in  an  attrac- 
tive country.  "It  is  rich,  English,  and  pretty.  When  I  say  English, 
I  ought,  perhaps,  rather  to  say  Scotch,  for  the  general  features  are  those 
of  the  lowland  parts  of  Perthshire,  though  the  luxuriant  vegetation  — 
tall  crops  of  maize,  ripening  lields  of  golden  wheat,  and  fine  well-grown 
hard-wood  —  speaks  of  a  more  southern  latitude.  Single  trees  and  clumps 
are  here  left  about  the  fields  and  on  the  hillsides,  under  the  shade  of 
which  well-looking  cattle  may  be  seen  res  ling,  whilst  on  the  other  hand  are 
pretty  views  of  river  and  distance,  visible  under  fine  willows,  or  through 
birches  that  carried  me  back  to  Decside."     (Hox.  ARxnun  Gordon.) 

Tlie  train  runs  out  E.  from  "Woodstock  across  the  St.  John  vallev  to 
Newburgh  (or  Woodstock)  Junction,  where  it  turns  N.  on  the  main  line, 
and  runs  rapidly  through  the  forest,  emerging  upon  the  meadows  of  the  St. 
John,  which  are  followed  for  a  hundred  miles.  Victoria  and  Middle 
Simonds  (Mills's  Hotel)  are  quiet  hamlets  on  the  river,  centres  of  agricul- 
tural districts  of  5-800  inhabitants  each.  Florenceville  (large  hotel)  is  a 
pretty  village,  "  perched,  like  an  Italian  town,  on  the  very  top  of  a  high 
bluff  far  over  the  river."  The  district  between  Woodstock  and  Wicklow 
was  settled  after  the  American  Revolution  by  the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the 
West  India  Rangers  and  the  New  Brunswick  Fencibles. 

"  Between  Florenceville  and  Tobique  the  road  becomes  even  prettier, 
winding  along  the  bank  of  the  St.  John,  or  through  woody  glens  that 
combine  to  my  eye  Somersetshire,  Perthshire,  and  the  green  wooded  part 
of  southwestern  Germany."  There  are  five  distinct  terraces  along  the 
valley,  showing  the  geological  changes  in  the  level  of  the  river.  5  M.  S. 
W.  of  the  river  is  Mars  Hill,  a  steep  mountain  about  1,200  ft.  high,  which 
overlooks  a  vast  expanse  of  forest.  This  was  one  of  the  chief  points  of 
controversy  during  the  old  border-troubles,  and  its  Buminit  was  cleared  by 
the  Commissioners  of  1794. 


54 


Haute  IS. 


TOBIQUE. 


rill 


Hi 


From  Florenceville  the  train  runs  N.  3  M.  to  Kent,  where  a  road  leads 
across  in  15  M.  to  the  upper  Miramichi  waters,  whence  canoes  and  fisher- 
men descend  the  great  river,  60  M.,  to  Boiestown  (see  page  47),  through 
rich  hill  and  forest  scenery,  and  with  the  best  of  salmon  and  trout  fish- 
ing.   (For  guides,  etc.,  write  to  Richards  &  Son,  Fredericton,  N.  B.)- 

Beyond  the  long-drawn  town  of  Kent,  the  train  traverses  the  pleasant 
(but  rather  lonely)  glens  of  Muniac,  celebrated  iu  Indian  tradition ;  and 
reaches  the  little  village  of  Perth,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  St.  John,  with 
a  hotel  and  four  or  five  stores,  and  mills.  The  frequent  views  of  the  bright 
river,  on  the  left,  give  an  appearance  of  diversity  and  cheerfulness  to  the 
landscape. 

Tobi(iae  (/.  A.  Perley^s  inn)^  otherwise  known  as  Andover,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  St.  John,  nearly  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Tobique  River.  It  has  400  inhabitants  and  2  churches,  and  is  the  chief 
depot  of  supplies  for  the  lumbering-camps  on  the  Tobique  River.  Nearly 
opposite  is  a  large  and  picturesque  Indian  village,  containing  about  150 
persons  of  the  Milicete  tribe,  and  situated  on  the  bluff  at  the  confluence  of 
the  riveip.  They  have  a  valuable  reservation  here,  and  the  men  of  the 
tribe  engage  in  lumbering  and  boating. 

Fort  Fairfield  (,Fort  Fairfield  House)  is  7  M.  N.  W.  of  Tobique,  and  is  an 
American  border-town,  with  900  inhabitants,  h  churches,  and  several  smail  fac- 
tories. This  town  was  settled  by  men  of  New  Brunswick  in  1816,  at  which  time  it 
was  supposed  to  be  inidde  the  Provincial  line.  A  road  runs  from  Fort  Fairfield  S.  W. 
to  Preaque  Isle  ( Presqve  Me  Hotel),  a  village  of  about  1  000  inhabitdnts,  with  4 
churches,  an  academy,  several  factories,  and  a  newspaper  (the  '^Presque  Isle  Sun- 
rise"). This  town  is  42  M.  N.  of  Houlton,  on  the  U.  S.  military  road  which  runs 
to  the  Madawaska  district,  and  is  one  of  the  centres  of  the  rich  forming  lands  of  the 
Aroostook  Valley,  parts  of  which  are  now  occupied  by  Swedish  colonists. 

From.  Tobique  to  Bathurst.     Through  the  WUdemeu. 

Guides  and  canoes  can  be  obtained  at  the  Indian  village  near  Tobique.  Abonk 
1 M.  above  Tobique  the  voyagers  ascend  through  the  Narroivs,  where  the  rapid  cur- 
rent of  the  Tobique  River  is  confined  in  a  winding  canon  (1  M.  long,  150  ft  wide, 
and  50-100  ft.  deep)  between  high  limestone  clifi^  Then  the  river  broadens  out 
into  a  pretty  lake-like  reach,  with  rounded  and  forest-covered  hills  on  either  side. 
The  first  night-camp  is  usually  made  high  up  on  this  reach.  Two  more  rapids  are 
next  passed,  and  then  commences  a  stretch  of  clear,  deep  water  70  M.  long.  Near 
the  foot  of  the  reach  is  the  settlement  otArthurette,  with  about  400  inhabitants. 
The  Red  Rapids  are  11  M.  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  descend  between  high 
shores.  Occasional  beautifully  wooded  islands  are  passed  in  the  stream ;  and  by 
the  evening  of  the  second  day  the  voyagers  should  reuch  the  high  red  clifis  at  the 
mouth  of  the  broad  Wapskehegan  River.  This  Indian  name  signifies  "  a  river  with 
a  wall  at  its  mouth,"  and  the  stream  may  be  ascended  for  20  M.,  through  a  region 
of  limestone  hills  and  alluvial  intervales.  The  Wapskehegan  is  81  M.  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Tobique. 

Infrequent  clearings,  red  cliffs  along  the  shore,  and  blue  hills  more  remote,  en- 
gage the  attention  as  the  canoe  ascend:)  still  farther,  passing  the  hamlet  of  Fosttr^s 
Cove  on  the  N.  bank,  and  running  along  the  shores  of  Diamond  and  Long  Island, 
41  M.  up  river  is  the  Agulquac  River,  coming  in  teom  the  £.,  and  navigable  by 
canoes  for  25  M.  As  the  intervales  beyond  this  confluence  are  passed,  occasional 
glimpses  are  gained  (on  the  r.)  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  other  tall  ridges.  At  80  M. 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  canoe  reaches  The  Forks  (4-5  days  from  Tobique). 


NICTOR  LAKE. 


Route  13.      55 


s,  and  is  the  chief 


The  Campbell  Rirer  hen  comes  in  from  the  E.  and  8.  E.,  from  the  gteat  Toblqne 
Lake  and  other  remote  «lldemess>wateT8 :  the  Momoieket  deacenda  from  the  N., 
and  from  the  N.  W.  conies  the  Nictor,  or  Little  Tobique  River.  It  is  a  good  day's 
Journey  from  the  Forks  to  Cedar  Brook,  on  the  Nictor;  and  another  day  conducts 
to  the  *  Nictor  I.ake,  "  possessing  more  beauty  of  scenery  than  any  other  locality 
I  have  seen  in  the  Province,  except,  perhaps,  the  Bay  of  Chaleur.  Close  to  its 
southern  edge  a  granite  mountain  rises  to  a  height  of  nearly  3,000  ft.,  clothed  with 
wood  to  its  summit,  except  where  it  breaks  into  precipices  of  dark  rock  or  long  gray 
shingly  slopes.  Other  mountains  of  less  height,  but  in  some  cases  of  more  pictur- 
esque forms,  are  on  other  sides ;  and  in  the  lake  itself,  in  the  shadow  of  the  moun- 
tain, is  a  little  rocky  islet  of  most  inviting  appearance."  It  takes  2-3  hours  to 
a.«cend  the  mountain  (Bald,  or  Sagamook),  whence  "  the  view  is  very  fine.  The  lake 
lies  right  at  our  feet,  — millions  of  acres  of  forest  are  spread  out  before  us  like  a 
map,  sinking  and  swelling  in  one  dark  mantle  over  hills  and  valleys,  whilst  Katah- 
din  and  Mars  Hill  in  Maine,  Tracadiegash  in  Canada,  the  Squaw's  Cap  on  the 
Bestigoucho.  and  Oreen  Mountain  in  Victoria,  are  all  distinctly  visible."  (Qobdon.) 
From  the  head  of  Nictor  Lake  a  portage  3  M.  long  leads  to  the  Neplglguit  Lake, 
on  whose  £.  shore  is  the  remarkable  peak  called  Mount  Tenerifie.  Near  the  outlet 
is  a  famous  camping-ground,  where  the  fishing  is  good  and  in  whose  v'cinity  deer 
and  ducks  are  found.  It  takes  about  six  days  to  descend  the  Nepiaiguit  River  to 
the  Great  Falls,  the  larger  part  of  the  way  being  through  forests  of  fir  and  between 
distant  ranges  of  bare  granite  hills. 

The  Tobique  affords  the  very  best  of  salmon-fishing,  with  many  trout  also.  The 
scenery  is  very  interesting,  with  noble  red  cliffs,  and  canons,  seething  rapids,  hill- 
girt  lakes,  and  true  forest  wiidness.  The  Tobique  is  the  most  picturesque  stream 
Ui  New  Brunswick. 

Orand  Falls  (Grand-Falla  Hotel,  a  new  summer-resort;  American; 
Glasier's),  the  central  point  of  the  upper  St.  John  region,  once  a  British 
garrison,  and  now  capital  of  Victoria  County,  has  latterly  become  famous 
as  a  watering-place,  the  attractions  being  the  noble  river  and  gorge  and 
hill  scenery  adjacent,  the  summer  coolness,  beautiful  drives,  fine  fishing, 
grounds,  etc.  The  pretty  little  village,  with  its  three  churches,  stands  ou 
a  square  peninsular  plateau,  with  the  river  on  three  sides,  and  a  dry  ravine 
on  the  fourth.  The  immensely  wide  Broadway  runs  from  the  railway 
to  the  bridge.  The  diverse  manners  of  the  French  habitans  and  Danish 
immigrants  are  worthy  of  observation.  Partridges  and  wild  ducks  abound 
here,  in  the  fall,  and  furnish  good  sport;  and  the  strawberries  of  July  are 
delicious.  The  Falls  are  at  their  best  in  May,  when  magnificent  convul- 
sions of  the  flooded  river  are  seen.  A  month  later,  the  logs  come  down. 
Besides  the  view  from  the  bridge,  the  Falls  and  the  gorge  should  be  seen 
from  the  old  mill  above,  from  the  Wells  (5  huge  eroded  pot-holes,  with 
grand  prospect  of  the  canon  and  rapids),  and  from  Lover's  Leap,  over  the 
profound  Falls-Brook  Basin.  The  scenery  is  majestic  and  awe-inspiring. 
There  are  lovely  views  from  the  mountain  W.  of  (and  700  ft.  nbove), 
the  village,  including  Blue  Bell,  Bald  Head,  and  the  long  lines  of  the  Sal- 
mon-River and  Blue  Mts. 

The  ♦*  Grand  Falls  are  near  the  village,  and  form  the  most  imposing 
cataract  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  The  river  expands  into  a  broad  basin 
above,  affording  a  landing-place  for  descending  canoes;  then  hurries  its 
massive  current  into  a  narrow  rock-bound  gorge,  in  which  it  slants  down 
an  incline  of  6  ft.,  and  then  plunges  over  a  precipice  of  calcareous  slate 


ii 


i 


I   I 


I       ! 


:| 


56      Jloute  13. 


GRAND  FALLS. 


68  ft.  high.  The  shape  of  the  fall  is  singular,  since  the  water  leaps  from 
the  front  and  from  both  sides,  with  minor  and  detached  cascades  over  the 
outer  ledges.  Below  the  cataract  the  river  whirls  and  whitens  for  |  M. 
through  a  rugged  gorge  250  ft.  wide,  whose  walls  of  dark  rock  are  from 
100  to  240  ft.  high.  *'  It  is  a  narrow  and  frightful  chasm,  lashed  by  the 
troubled  water,  and  excavated  by  boiling  eddies  and  whirlpools  always 
in  motion ;  at  last  the  water  plunges  in  an  immense  frothy  sheet  into  a 
basin  below,  where  it  becomes  tranquil,  and  the  stream  resumes  its  origi- 
nal features."  Within  the  gorge  »the  river  falls  58  ft.  more,  and  the  rug- 
ged shores  are  strewn  with  the  wrecks  of  lumber-rafts  which  have  become 
entangled  here.  The  traveller  should  try  to  visit  the  Falls  when  a  raft  is 
about  passing  over.  3  -  4  M.  below  the  Falls  is  the  dangerous  Bapide  de 
Femme.  Small  steamers  have  been  placed  on  the  river  above  the  Falls, 
and  have  run  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Francis,  (35  M.  distant. 

It  is  a  tradition  of  the  Micmaos  that  in  a  remote  age  two  families  of  their  tribe 
were  on  the  upper  St.  John  liuntinf^,  and  were  surprised  by  a  war-party  of  the 
strange  and  dreaded  Northern  Indians.  The  latter  were  descending  the  river  to  at- 
tack the  lower  Micuiac  villages,  and  forced  the  captured  women  to  pilot  them  down. 
A  few  miles  above  the  falls  they  asked  their  unwilling  guides  if  the  stream  was  all 
smooth  bejiow,  and  on  receiving  an  affirmative  answi-r,  lashed  the  canoes  together 
Into  a  raft,  and  went  to  sleep,  exhausted  with  their  march.  When  near  the  Grand 
Fal.3  the  women  quietly  dropped  overboard  and  swam  ashore,  while  the  hostile  war- 
riors, wrapped  in  slumber,  were  swept  down  into  the  rapids,  only  to  awaken  when 
escape  was  impossible.  Their  bodies  were  stripped  by  the  Micmacs  on  the  river  be- 
low, and  the  brave  women  were  ever  afterward  lield  in  high  honor  by  the  tribe. 

Crossing  the  St.  John  at  Grand  Falls,  the  line  ascends  the  E.  bank  of 
the  stream,  and  soon  enters  the  Acadian- French  settlements  and  farming- 
districts.  8- 10  M.  up  the  road  is  the  village  of  St.  Leonard^  nearly  all  of 
whose  people  are  French;  and  on  the  American  shore  (for  the  St.  John 
River  is  for  many  leagues  the  frontier  between  the  nations)  is  the  simi- 
larly constituted  village  of  Van  Buren  (two  inns).  This  district  is  largely 
peopled  by  the  Cyr,  Violette,  and  Michaud  families. 

The  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon  thus  describes  one  of  these  Acadian  homes  near  Grand 
River  (in  1863) :  "  The  whole  aspect  of  the  farm  was  that  of  a  mitairie  in  Nor- 
mandy ;  the  outer  doors  of  the  house  gaudily  painted,  the  panels  of  a  different 
color  from  the  frame,  —  the  large,  open,  uncarpeted  room,  with  i's  bare  shining 
floor,  —  the  lasses  at  the  spinning-wheel, —  the  French  costume  and  appearance  of 
Madame  Violet  and  her  sons  and  daughters, — ail  carried  me  back  to  the  other  side 
of  the  Atlantic." 

Grand  River  (TardifTs  inn)  is  a  hamlet  about  4  M.  beyond  St.  Leonard, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name. 

The  St.  John  River  to  the  Reatigouche. 

A  rugged  wilderness-journey  may  be  made  ob  this  line,  by  engaging  Acadian 
guides  and  canoes  at  the  Madawaska settlements.  3-4  weeks  will  be  sufficient  time 
to  reach  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  with  plenty  of  fishing  on  the  way.  On  leaving  the  St. 
John  the  voyagers  ascend  the  Grand  River  to  its  tributary,  the  Waagansis.  A  port- 
age of  5-6  M.  from  this  stream  leads  to  the  Waagnu,  down  whose  narrow  current 
the  canoes  float  through  the  forest  until  the  brood  Ilestigouche  is  entered  (see  Route 
15 ;  see  also  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon  in  *'  Vacation  Tourists"  for  1862-68,  p.  477). 


MADAWASKA. 


Moute  IS.      67 


Is  the  £:  bank  of 


'ond  St.  Leonard, 


6  M.  above  Grand  River  is  Si.  Basil  (two  inns),  which,  with  its  back 
settlements,  has  over  1,400  inhabitants.  A  few  miles  beyond  are  some 
islands  in  the  St.  John  River,  over  which  is  seen  the  American  village  of 
Grant  Isle  (Levecque's  inn),  a  place  of  700  inhabitants,  all  of  whom  are 
Acadians.    This  village  was  incorporated  in  1869,  and  is  on  the  U.  S.  mail- 

I  route  from  Van  Buren  to  Fort  Kent.  Beyond  the  populous  village  of 
Green  River  the  road  continues  around  the  great  bend  of  the  St.  John  to 
the  Acadian  settlement  of  Edmandston  ( Whitney's  Hotel),  at  the  con- 

I  Alienee  of  the  Madawaska  and  St.  John  Rivers.    This  is. the  centre  of 

[the  Acadian-French  settlements  which  extend  from  the  Grand  Falls. 
This  district  is  studded  with  Roman  Catholic  chapels,  and  is  divided  into 
narrow  farms,  on  which  are  quaint  little  houses.  Tliere  are  rich  tracts  of 
intervale  along  the  rivers,  and  the  people  are  generally  in  a  prosperous 
and  happy  condition.  The  visitor  should  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  loftily 
situated  old  block-house  tower,  over  Edmundston,  for  the  sake  of  the 
wide  prospect  over  the  district.  The  village  is  rather  crude,  but  the 
scenery  about  it,  including  the  great  river,  the  rich  meadows,  the  far- 
away Mt.  Carmel,  is  very  charming.  The  best  of  fishing  (trout  and 
whitefish,  tuladi  and  toque,  —  these  latter  weighing  from  15  to  35  pounds 

leach)  is  to  be  enjoyed  in  this  vicinit}*,  particularly  in  Fish  River  and  the 

Eagle  Lakes,  Green  River,  and  the  Temiscouata  region. 

This  people  ia  descended  from  the  French  colonists  who  lived  on  the  shores  of  the 
[Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  Kasin  of  Minas  at  the  middle  of  the  ISth  century.    When 
the  cruel  edict  of  exile  was  carried  into  effect  in  1755  (see  Route  21),  many  of  the 
Acadians  fled  from  the  Anglo-American  troops  and  took  refuge  in  the  forest.    A  por- 
tion of  them  ascended  the  St.  John  to  the  present  site  of  Fredericton,  and  founded 
a  new  home ;  but  they  were  ejected  30  years  later,  in  order  that  the  land  might  be 
[given  to  the  refugee  American  Loyalists.     Then  they  advanced  into  the  trackless 
forest,  and  settled  in  the  Madawaska  region,  where  they  have  been  permitted  to  re- 
main undisturbed.    When  the  American  frontier  was  pushed  forward  to  the  St. 
John  River,  by  the  sharp  diplomacy  of  Mr.  Webster,  the  Acadians  found  thcmFelvefl 
[divided  by  a  national  boundary ;  and  so  they  still  remain,  nearly  half  of  the  villages 
{being  on  the  side  of  the  United  States.    It  is  estimated  that  there  are  now  about 
1 8,000  persons  in  these  settlements. 

"  It  was  pleasant  to  drive  along  the  wide  flat  intervale  which  formed  the  Mada- 
[waska  Valley ;  to  see  the  rich  crops  of  oats,  buckwheat,  and  potatoes;  the  large, 
[often  handsome,  and  externally  clean  and  comfortable-looking  houses  of  the  inhab- 
litants,  with  the  wooded  high  grounds  at  a  distance  on  our  right,  and  the  river  on 
lour  left,  —  on  which  an  occasional  boat,  laden  with  stores  for  the  lumberers,  with 
[the  help  of  stout  horses,  toiled  against  the  current  towards  the  rarely  visited  head- 
Iwaters  of  the  tributary  streams,  where  the  virgin  forests  still  stood  unconscious  of 
[the  axe.  This  beautiful  valley,  with  the  rich  lands  which  border  the  river  above 
[the  mouth  of  the  Madawaska,  as  far  almost  as  that  of  the  river  St.  Francis,  is  the 
Ipeculiar  seat  of  the  old  Acadian-French."    (Prof.  Johnston.) 

The  American  village  of  Madawaska  (two  inns)  is  opposite  Edmundston,  and 

las  over  1,000  inhaloitants.    The  U.S.  mail-stages  run  from  this  point  up  the  val- 

^y  of  the  St.  John  for  10  M.  to  another  Acadian  village,  which  was  first  named 

ionne  (in  honor  of  Father  Dionne,  who  founded  here  the  Church  of  St.  Luce) ;  in 

"9  was  incorporated  as  Dickeyville,  in  honor  of  some  local  statesman ;  and  in  1871 

eceived  the  name  of  Frenchville,  '*  as  describing  the  nationality  of  its  settlers." 

[From  near  Frenchville  a  portage  5  M.  long  leads  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Cleveland y 

la  fine  sheet  of  water  9  M.  long,  connected  by  Second  Lake  and  Lake  Preble  with 

\lMke  Sedgwick,  which  is  nearly  10  M.  long. 

3* 


08      Jioute  IS. 


TEMISCOUATA  LAKE. 


16  M.  8.  W.  of  Bfadawaska  !■  Fort  JTenl,  an  old  border-post  of  the  U.  B.  Army.  It 
has  two  inn*  and  about  1,000  inhabitants  (including  the  ac^acent  formioff  settle^ 
ments),  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  mail-route  from  Van  Buren.  From  this  point 
•tages  run  W.  20  M.  to  the  Acadian  villaffe  of  SK.  Francis,  near  the  mouth  of  the  St. 
Francis  River.  The  latter  stream,  flowmg  from  the  N.  W.,  is  the  boundary  of  the 
United  States  for  the  next  40  M.,  descending  through  the  long  lakes  called  Wela- 
stookwaagamis,  Pechtaweekaagomic,  and  PohenegHmook.  Above  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Irancis,  the  St.  John  River  is  included  in  the  State  of  Maine,  and  flows 
through  that  immense  and  trackless  forest  which  covers  "  an  extent  seven  times  that 
of  the  &mous  Black  Forest  of  Germany  at  its  largest  expanse  in  modern  times.  The 
States  of  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut,  and  Delaware  could  be  lost  together  in  our 
northern  forests,  and  still  leave  about  each  a  margin  of  wilderness  sufBciently  wide 
to  make  the  exploration  without  a  compass  a  work  of  desperate  adventure*'  Its 
chief  tributary  in  the  woods  is  the  Allagash,  which  descends  from  the  great  Lakes 
Pemgockwahen  and  Chamberlain,  near  the  Chesuncook  and  Moosehead  Lakes  and 
the  head-waters  of  the  Penobscot. 

The  £agle  Lakes*  ia  Maine,  are  visited  hence  (guides  obtained  at  Whitney's) 
by  a  portage  of  5^  M.  from  Frenchville,  6  M.  above  Edmundston,  to  Long  Lake, 
whence,  by  Mud,  Cross,  Square,  and  Eagle  Lakes,  and  Fish  River,  the  canoes  de- 
scend through  beautifiil  scenery  to  Fort  Kent,  20  M.  above  Edmundston.  There 
are  fiunous  burbot  and  whiteflsh  in  these  lakes. 

At  Edmnndston  the  Royal  mail-route  leaves  the  St.  John  River,  and 
ascends  the  W.  shore  of  the  Madawaska.  Bat  few  settlements  are  passed, 
end  at  12  M.  from  Edmundston  the  Province  of  Quebec  is  entered. 
About  2ft.  M.  from  Edmnndston  the  road  reaches  the  foot  of  the  picturesque 
Temisooiiata  Lake,  where  there  is  a  small  village.  The  road  is  parallel 
with  the  water,  but  at  a  considerable  distance  from  it,  until  near  the 
upper  part,  and  pretty  views  are  afforded  from  various  points  .where  it 
overlooks  the  lake. 

Tenmcouata  is  an  Indian  word  meaning  "  Winding  Water,'*  and  the  lake 
is  80  M.  long  by  2  -  3  M.  wide.  The  scenery  is  very  pretty,  and  the  clear 
deep  waters  contain  many  fish,  the  best  of  which  are  the  tuladi,  or  great 
gray  trout,  which  sometimes  weighs  over  12  pounds.  There  are  also  white- 
fish  and  burbot.  Visitors  to  the  lake  usually  stop  at  the  Lake-Side  House, 
where  canoes  may  be  obtained.  From  the  W.,  Temiscouata  receives  the 
Cabineau  River,  the  outlet  of  Long  Lake  (15  by  2  M.) ;  and  on  the  E.  is 
the  Tuladi  River,.which  rises  in  the  highlands  of  Rimouski  and  flows 
down  through  a  chain  of  secluded  and  rarely  visited  lakelets.  The  chief 
settlement  on  Temiscouata  Lake  is  the  French  Catholic  hamlet  of  Notre 
Dame  du  Lac,  which  was  founded  since  1861  and  has  180  inhabitants. 
Fort  Ingalls  commanded  the  lake,  and  had  a  garrison  of  200  men  as  late 
as  1850. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Tuladi,  285  barrels  of  whiteflsh  were  taken  in  the  M\  run 
of  1378.  1  M.  up  are  fells,  from  which  the  still  Tuladi  may  be  ascended  for  16  M., 
to  the  Forks,  where  the  flshing  is  very  good.  Deer,  bears,  caribou,  and  other  game 
abound  in  these  vast  untrodden  forests.  A  favorite  trip  for  sportsmen  leads  from 
Edmundston  (by  carriage)  up  the  Madawaska  to  Griffin's,  16  M< ,  then  a  portage  of 
2\  M.  to  Mud  Lake ;  then  a  long  and  delightfril  canoe-descent  to  Fourth  Squa-took 
like ;  then  down  into  Third  Squa-took,  from  whoso  shore  rises  the  noble-viewing 
Squa-took  Peak ;  and  then  down  to  the  Forks,  and  along  the  Tuladi  River  to  Temis- 
couata Lake. 

The  road  from  Temiscouata  Lake  to  Riviere  du  Loup  is  40-  50  M.  lon^ 

and  descends  through  a  wild  region  into  which  few  setUers  have  advanced. 


SHEDIAO. 


ItouU  14.       59 


14.   St  John  to  Shediao. 

Dlftaaeet.  —  St.  John  to  Moncton,  89  M. ;  Painieo  Junction,  97 :  DorohMter 
Boad,  102 ;  Shediac,  106 ;  Point  du  Chdne,  108. 

St.  John  to  Painsec  Junction,  see  Route  16. 

Passengers  for  Shediac  and  Point  du  Gh§ne  change  cars  at  Painseo 
Junction,  and  pass  to  the  N.  E.  over  a  level  and  unproductive  country. 

Shediao  (  Wddon^s ;  Waverley )  is  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  with  8 
churches,  —  Baptist,  the  Catholic  St.  Joseph  de  Shediac,  and  St.  Andrew^s, 
the  head  of  a  rural  deanery  of  the  Anglican  church.  The  town  is  well 
situated  on  a  broad  harbor,  which  is  sheltered  by  Shediac  Island,  but  its 
commerce  is  inconsiderable,  being  limited  to  a  few  cargoes  of  lumber  and 
deals  sent  annually  to  Great  Britain.  The  small  oysters  ( Ostrea  canadensis) 
of  the  adjacent  waters  are  also  exported  to  the  provincial  cities.  Shediac 
was  occupied  by  a  French  garrison  in  1750,  to  protect  the  borders  of 
Acadia,  and  in  1767  there  were  2,000  French  and  Acadian  troops  and 
settlers  here.  The  French  element  is  still  predominant  in  this  vicinity, 
and  its  interests  are  represented  by  a  weekly  paper  called  "Xe  Moniteur 
AcadienJ'* 

Point  du  Chene  (Schurman's  Point  du  Chgne  House)  is  2  M.  N.  E.  of 
Shediac,  and  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  railway  and  the  St.  Lawrence  port 
nearest  to  St.  John.  It  has  a  village  of  about  200  inhabitants,  with  long 
piers  reaching  out  to  the  deep-water  channels.  From  this  point  passen- 
gers embark  on  the  steamers  for  Prince  Edward  Island.  Daily  steamers 
run  from  Point  du  Ch§ne  to  Summerside,  P.  E.  I.,  where  they  make  con- 
nections with  the  trains  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Bailway  (see  Route  43)  for  Char- 
lottetown  and  all  parts  of  the  island. 

Passengers  leave  St.  John  at  8  a.  m.,  and  reach  Charlottetown  at  8  p.  m. 


Ihe  Westmorland  Coast.  Infrequent  mail-stages  run  E.  from  Shediao  by  Point 
du  Cbdne  to  Barachois,  8  M. ;  Tedish,  17;  Great  Sbemogue  (Avard's  Hotel),  22: 
and  Little  Sbemogue,  24.  These  settlemeuts  conuui  about  1^500  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  are  Acadians.  Capes  Jourimain  (fixed  white  light,  visible  14  M.)  and  Tor- 
mentine  are  respectively  15  M.  and  20  M.  E.  of  Little  Sbemogue. 

10  - 12  M.  N .  of  Shediac  (mail-stage  daily)  are  the  large  and  prosperous  Acadian  settle- 
ments of  the  Cocagnes  (tbree  inns),  having  about  1,5U0  inhabitants,  seven  eighths  of 
wbom  are  of  French  descent.  These  people  are  nearly  all  fanners,  engaged  in  tilling 
the  level  plains  of  Diindas,  although  a  good  harbor  opens  between  the  villages.  21 M. 
from  Shediac  is  Buctouche  (two  inns),  a  prosperous  Acadian  village  of  400  inhab- 
itants, engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  in  the  exportation  of  lumber  and  oysters. 


m 


m 


'!li 


;  I 


S9  a    RmUe  77.        ST.  JOHN  TO  QUEBEC. 


77.  St  John  and  Hali&z  to  Qnebeo.   ^ 

The  Intercolonial  Railway  is  the  gigantic  and  costly  outgrowth  of  the  Canadian 
National  sentiment,  which  has  established  here  a  perfectly  equipped  railway  route 
of  rast  extent,  through  a  region  which  can  never  pay  the  cont  of  its  operation, 
being  thinly  settled,  and  exposed  to  yery  serious  climatic  yicissitudes.  It  was 
deemed  essential  to  h«>Te  a  first-class  route  between  the  maritime  and  inland  proT- 
inces,  entirely  on  Canadian  territory,  eyen  though  the  distance  is  nearly  double 
that  across  New  England.  The  first  road  was  surveyed  by  Migor  Yule,  R.  E.,  before 
1840,  and  ran  across  the  present  Northern  Maine,  then  claimed  and  partly  held  by 
Canada.  In  1846-48  a  new  route  was  carefully  laid  out  by  officers  of  the  Royal 
Engineers.  The  construction  began  in  1869,  and  was  finished  in  1876.  This  great 
military  route  runs  from  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Grand  Trunlc  Railway,  at  Riviere  da 
Loup,  to  Rimouski,  where  it  leaves  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  crosses  the  lonely  high- 
lands of  Quebec,  reaching  grades  743  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  descends  to  the  Bay 
Chaleur.  Thence  it  runs  down  the  north  shore  of  New  Brunswick,  and  down  across 
Nova  Scotia,  to  Halifax,  its  magnificent  winter-harbor.  From  the  main  line  there 
are  branches  to  Dalhousie,  Chatham,  Richibucto,  Point  du  ChSne,  St.  John,  and 

Pictou.    The  entire  length  of  track  is  about  850  M. 

1 

Stations  (Moncton  to  Quebec).— Moncton  to  Berry's  Mills,  8  M. ;  Canaan, 
19;  Coal  Branch,  23;  Weldford,  37;  Kent  Junction,  48  ;  Rosjorsville,  57 ;  Barnabr 
River,  69 ;  Chatham  Junction,  72  ;  Derby,  76 ;  Newcastle,  78  ;  Beaver  Brook,  88 : 
Bartibogue,  99 ;  Red  Pine,  109 ;  Bathurst,  122 ;  Petite  Roche,  134 ;  Belledune,  142 
Jacquet  River,  151 ;  New  Mills,  161 ;  Charlo,  167 ;  Dalhousie,  177 :  CampbelUon, 
185;  Metapedia,  198;  Mill  Stream,  208;  Assametquaghan,  219 ;  Causap-cal,  280: 
Amqui,  246 ;  Cedar  Hall,  255 ;  Sayabec,  261 ;  Tartague,  272 ;  Little  M^tis,  282; 
St.  Flavie,  291 ;:  St.  Luce,  299 ;  St.  Anaclete,  306 ;  Rimouski,  309 ;  Sa«re  Coenr. 
817;  Bic,319;  St.  Fabien,  328 ;  St.  Simon,  838 ;  Trois  Pistoles,  347 ;  St.  Eloi,  358 
Isle  Verte,  858;  St.  Arsene,  366;  Cacouna,  368;  Riviere  du  Loup,  374:  Notre 
Dame  du  Portage,  380 ;  St.  Alexandre,  386 ;  St.  Andre,  391 ;  St.  Helene,  394 ;  St. 
Paschall,  400 ;  St.  Philippe  de  Neri,  402 ;  Riviere  Quelle,  409  ;  St.  Anne,  415 ;  St. 
Roche,  423 ;  Elgin  Road,  426 ;  St.  Jean  Port  Joli,  430 ;  Trois  Saumons,  435 ;  L'lalet, 
433;  L'Anse  i  Gile  442;  Cap  St.  Ignace,  445;  St.  Thomas,  452;  St.  Pierre,  459; 
St.  Francois,  462;  St.  Valier,  486;  St.  Michel.  470;  St.  Charles,  476;  St.  Henri 
484 ;  St.  Jean  Chrysostome,  488 ;  Chaudiire  Curve,  492 ;  Hadlow,  498 ;  Point  Levi, 
499;  Quebec,  500. 

For  nearly  80  M.,  from  Moncton  to  Newcastle,  (isee  page  62),  the  route 
lies  over  a  dull  and  uninteresting  country,  level  and  thinly  settled.  Steam- 
ers run  hence  to  Chatham  (also  a  branch  railway)  and  up  the  Miramichi, 
and  carriages  30  M.  to  the  hotel  on  the  Tabusintac,  famous  for  great  sea- 
tn)iit.  The  railway  crosses  the  Miramichi  on  immense  iron  bridges, 
carried  by  12  stone  piers,  and  runs  for  nearly  50  M.  to  Bathorst  (see  page 
65),  where  it  crosses  the  Nepisiguit  on  a  long  bridge  of  English  iron. 
The  scener}'  is  much  finer,  as  the  train  rushes  on,  with  frequent  glimpses 
of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  for  50  M.,  to  Dalhousie  (see  page  67),  9  M.  beyond 
which  is  Campbellton  (page  68),  with  its  railway  dining-room.  Charm- 
ing scenery  follows,  and  the  line  crosses  the  Restigouche  River  on  a  noble 
iron  bridge,  and  enters  the  Province  of  Quebec. 


ST.  JOHN  TO  QUEBEC.        RouU  77,     69  b 


90, 

;h  of  the  Oanadian 
[pped  railway  route 
nt  of  ibi  operation, 
kcissitudes.  It  was 
le  and  inland  proT- 
ce  is  nearly  double 
'  Yule,  R.  E.,  before 
and  partly  held  by 
fficers  of  the  Royal 
a  1876.  This  great 
lilway,  at  Riviere  da 
M)8  the  lonely  high- 
escends  to  the  Bay 
bIc,  and  down  across 
;he  main  line  there 
i6ne,  St.  John,  and 


Ilfl,  8  M. ;  Canaan, 

sville,  67;  Barnaby 

Beaver  Brook,  88; 

34;  Belledune,  142 ; 

l77;  Gampbellton, 

:  Gausapocal,  280; 

Little  M6tis,  282; 

309;  Sacre  Coeur, 

47 ;  St.  Eloi,  353 ; 

Lonp,  374 :   Notre 
Helene,  394;  St. 

t.  Anne,  415 ;  St. 
iimona,  435 ;  L'lslet, 
St.  Pierre,  459; 
89,476;  St.  Henri, 
w,  498;  Point  Levi. 


Beyond  the  hamlet  of  Metapedia,  the  line  begins  the  long  ascent  of  the 
Metapedia  valley,  a  stretch  of  70  M.  of  wild,  mountain-girt,  island-dotted, 
Scottish  scenery,  with  no  villages  or  towns,  or  hotels.  Lake  Metapedia 
affords  a  beautiful  sight,  and  abounds  in  fish  and  game,  but  no  accommo- 
dations for  tourists  have  yet  been  prepared.  Vast  forests  hem  in  the  road 
on  every  side,  stretching  for  many.leagues  along  the  dreary  and  uninhab- 
ited highlands.  About  the  only  product  of  the  region  is  salmon,  of  which 
the  long  and  rapid  streams  are  full,  and  so  unsophisticated  are  these  huge 
fish  that  they  are  captured  by  the  simplest  processes. 

Sayabeo,  a  few  miles  farther  on,  througli  the  woods,  is  a  lonely  sta- 
tion at  the  crossing  of  the  old  military  road  from  Quebec  to  New  Bruns- 
wick. A  long  up-grade  leads  thence  to  Malphet  Lake,  and  soon  reaches 
the  Tartigon  River,  which  it  follows  down  to  the  village  of  the  same  name. 
A  dreary  stretch  of  track  follows,  partlj'  obscured  in  deep  rocky  cuttings, 
and  partly  running  through  the  debris  of  burned  forests,  and  conducting, 
at  last,  to  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  by  the  Metis  Falls  and 
the  great  cuttings  near  St.  Octave,  which  is  the  station  for  the  Grand  and 
Little  Metis,  famous  salmon-streams,  where  good  hunting  is  found.  There 
is  a  large  summer-hotel  at  Little  Metis.  The  Grand  Metis  River  is  crossed 
by  a  long,  lofty,  and  costly  railway  bridge,  supported  on  high  stone 
abutments,  a  mile  or  two  below  which  is  the  Grand  Metis  Fall,  where  the 
river  descends  75  ft.  at  a  single  plunge.  A  few  miles  beyond  is  St.  Flavie, 
where  the  route  enters  the  more  thickly  settled  French  coimtry  along  the 
St.  Lawrence. 


ge  62),  the  route 
y  settled.  Steam- 
the  Miramichi, 
)us  for  great  sea- 
se  iron  bridges, 
tlmrBt  (see  page 
of  English  iron, 
requent  glimpses 
67),  9  M.  beyond 
:f-room.  Charm- 
River  on  a  noble 


60     Jtmite  IS. 


RICHIBUCTO. 


'i 


I  11 


^  ! 


15.  The  Bay  of  Cfaalenr  and  the  North  Shore  of  New 

Brunswick. 

Since  the  construction  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway,  the  routes  of  Pro- 
rincial  travel  have  undergone  many  important  changes,  particularly 
around  the  N.  shore  of  New  Brunswick,  where  the  trains  on  this  great 
route  have  supplanted  the  services  of  the  steamships.  The  regular  steam- 
ship lines  between  Quebec  and  Prince  Edward  Island,  which  used  to  serve 
these  ports,  now  no  more  visit  the  shores  of  New  Brunswick. 

The  following  account  is  preserved  for  the  use  of  travellers  by  sea, 
although  the  descriptions  of  the  towns  were  revised  in  1883. 

The  Quebec  steamships  do  not  now  go  up  the  Baj'  of  Chaleur,  but  the 
account  of  the  Bay  is  retained  for  the  use  of  voyagers  by  other  vessels. 
A  steamboat  of  the  St.  Lawrence  Steam  Navigation  Co.  leaves  Campbell- 
ton  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday,  at  5  A.  m.,  and  runs  out  to  Carleton, 
New  Richmond,  New  Carlisle,  Paspebiac,  Port  Daniel,  Newport,  Grand 
River,  Percd  and  Gasp^  Basin.  It  leaves  Gasp^  on  the  return  voyage  at 
2  A.M.,  Thursdays  and  Mondays. 

The  steamship  leaves  the  long  railway  wharf  at  Point  du  ChSne,  and 
passes  the  low  shores  of  Shediac  Island  on  the  1.  The  course  is  laid  well 
out  into  the  Northumberland  Strait.  Between  Shediac  Point  and  Cape 
Egmont  (on  Prince  Edward  Island)  the  strau  is  nearly  20  M.  wide.  On  the 
1.  the  harbors  of  Cocagne  and  Buctouche  (see  page  69)  are  soon  passed. 
14^  M.  N.  of  Buctouche  are  the  low  cliffs  and  lighthouse  of  Richibucto 
Head,  beyond  which  (if  the  weather  permits)  the  steamer  takes  a  more 
westerly  course,  and  enters  the  great  Richibucto  River,  which  empties  its 
stream  through  a  bi*oad  lagoon  enclosed  by  sand-bars. 

Riohibuoto  {Kent  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  Kent  County,  and  occupies  a 
favorable  position  for  commerce  and  shipbuilding,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Richibucto  River.  It  has  about  800  inhabitants  and  3  churches,  and  is 
engaged  in  the  exportation  of  fish  and  lumber.  The  river  is  navigable  for 
20  M.,  and  has  been  a  great  highway  for  lumber-vessels,  although  now  the 
supply  of  the  forests  is  wellnigh  exhausted.  The  rubbish  of  the  saw- 
mills has  destroyed  the  once  valuable  fisheries  in  this  river.  In  the  region 
about  Richibucto  are  many  Acadian  farmers,  and  the  hamlet  of  Aldouin 
Hiver,  4  M.  from  the  town,  pertains  to  this  people.  Daily  stages  run  from 
Richibucto  to  Shediac  and  to  Chatham  (see  page  61).  A  road  leads  S.  W. 
through  the  wilderness  to  the  Grand  Lake  district  (Route  10). 

The  name  Richibucto  signifies  "  the  River  of  Fire,''  and  the  shores  of  the  river 
and  bay  were  formerly  inhabited  by  a  ferocious  and  bloodthirsty  tribe  of  Indians. 
So  late  as  1787,  when  the  American  Loyalist  Powell  settled  here,  there  were  but  four 
ChrlstiaQ  families  (and  they  were  Acadians)  iu  all  this  region  (the  present  county  of 
Ksnt).    The  power  of  the  Richibuctoit  waa  broken  iu  1724,  when  all  their  warriors^ 


CHATHAM. 


Jioute  15.      61 


lore  of  New 


under  command  of  Ar^^oosh  ("  the  Oreat  Wizard  *'),  attacked  Canso  and  captured 
17  Massachusetts  vessels.  Two  well-manned  vessels  of  Boston  and  Capo  Ann  were 
sent  after  them,  and  overtook  the  Indian  fleet  on  the  coast.  A  desperate  naval  battle 
ensued  between  the  Ma<<8achu8etts  sloops  and  the  Indian  prize-ships.  The  Richi- 
buciu£  fought  with  great  valor,  but  were  finally  disconcerted  by  showers  of  hand- 
grenades  from  the  Americans,  and  nearly  every  warrior  was  either  killed  or  drowned. 

After  emerging  from  Richibucto  harbor,  the  steamer  runs  N.  across  the 
opening  of  the  shallow  Kouchibouguac  Bay,  whose  shores  are  low  sand- 
bars and  beaches  which  enclose  shoal  lagoons.  5  M.  above  Point  Sapin  is 
Escuminac  Point,  on  which  is  a  powerful  white  light,  visible  for  25  M. 
Tlie  course  is  now  laid  more  to  the  W.,  across  the  Miramichi  Bay,  and  on 
the  1.  are  seen  the  pilots'  village  and  the  lighthouses  on  Preston's  Beach. 
The  entrance  to  the  Inner  Bay  of  Miramichi  is  between  Fox  Island  and 
Portage  Island,  the  latter  of  which  bears  a  lighthouse.  The  Inner  Bay  is 
13  M.  long  and  7-8  M.  wide,  and  on  the  S.  is  seen  Vin  Island,  back  of 
which  is  the  Bay  du  Vin.  Two  centuries  ago  all  this  shore  was  occupied 
by  French  settlements,  whose  only  remnant  now  is  the  hamlet  of  Portage 
Road,  in  a  remote  corner  of  the  bay. 

When  about  9  M.  from  the  entrance,  the  steamer  passes  between  Point 
Quart  and  Grand  Dune  Island  (on  the  r.),  which  are  3J  M.  apart.  8-4 
M.  farther  on,  the  course  is  between  Oak  Point,  with  its  two  lighthouses 
(on  the  r.),  and  Cheval  Point,  beyond  which  is  the  populous  valley  of  the 
Nnpan  River,  on  the  S.  The  hamlet  of  Black  Brook  is  visible  on  the  1., 
and  off  Point  Napan  is  Sheldrake  Island,  a  low  and  swampy  land  lying 
across  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The  vessel  now  enters  the  Miraxniolii 
Biver,  and  on  the  r.  is  the  estuary  of  the  Great  Bartibog,  with  the  beacon- 
lights  on  Malcolm  Point.  The  Miramichi  is  here  a  noble  stream,  fully 
1  M.  wide,  but  flowing  between  low  and  uninteresting  shores. 

Chatham  ( Canada  Hotel;  Bowser's  Hotel)  is  the  chief  town  on  the  North 
Sliore,  and  has  a  population  of  nearly  3,000,  with  6  churches,  a  weekly 
newspaper,  and  a  Masonic  hall.  It  is  24  M.  from  the  sea,  and  is  built 
along  the  S.  shore  of  the  river  for  a  distance  of  li  M.  On  the  summit  of 
the  hill  along  which  the  town  is  built  is  seen  a  great  pile  of  Catholic  in- 
stitutions, among  which  are  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Michael,  the  convent  and 
hospital  of  the  Hotel  Dieu  de  Chatham,  and  St.  Michael's  College.  These 
buildings,  like  all  the  rest  of  the  town,  are  of  wood.  The  chief  industries 
of  Chatham  are  shipbuilding  and  the  exportation  of  fish  and  lumber,  and 
the  river  here  usually  contains  several  large  ships,  which  can  anchor  oflf 
the  wharves  in  6  -  8  fathoms. 

About  22  M.  beyond  Chatham  are  the  head-waters  of  the  Tabusintac  River» 
*'  tbu  ispoi-tsuian's  paradise,"  a  narrow  and  shallow  stream  in  which  an  abundance 
of  trout  is  found. 

Tri-weekly  stages  run  from  Chatham  N.  E.  to  Oak  Point,  11  M. ;  Burnt  Church, 
20;  Neguac,  25;  Tabusintac,  37;  Tracadie,  52;  Pockmouche,  64;  Shippigan,  70  ^ 
and  Caraquette  (Lower),  73.  The  first  30  M.  of  this  road  are  along  (or  near)  the  N. 
shore  of  the  Miramiclii  Kiver  and  the  Inner  Bay,  by  the  hamlets  of  Oak  Point  and 
Burnt  Church. 


62      MouU  15. 


THE  MIRAMICHI. 


Burnt  Church  is  still  the  capital  of  the  Micmac  Indians  of  the  Province,  and 
here  they  gather  in  great  numbers  on  St.  Anne's  Day  and  engage  in  religious  rites 
and  athletic  sports  and  dances.  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon  says:  "I  yras  Surprised  by 
the  curious  resemblance  between  these  dances  and  those  of  the  Greek  peasantry. 
Even  the  costumes  were  in  some  degree  similar,  and  I  noticed  more  than  one  short 
colored-silk  jacket  and  handkerchief- bound  head  that  carried  me  back  to  Ithaca 
and  Paxo."    (Vacation  Tourists,  1863  ) 

Tabuslntac  (small  inn)  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Tabusintac  River,  and  is  a 
Presbyterian  village  of  about  400  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the 
fisheries.  Many  largo  sea-trout  are  caught  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  in 
October  immense  numbers  of  wild  geese  and  ducks  are  shot  in  the  adjacent  lagoons. 

Tracadie  is  a  settlement  which  contains  1,2C0  French  Aoadians,  and  is  situated 
near  a  broad  lagoou  which  lies  inside  a  line  of  sand-bars.  Salmon,  rod,  and  herring 
are  found  in  the  adjacent  viaters,  and  most  of  the  people  are  engagtd  in  the  flsh- 
eries.  The  Tracadie  Lazaretto  is  devoted  to  the  reception  of  persons  afflicted  with 
the  leprosy,  which  prevails  to  some  extent  in  this  district,  but  has  diminished  since 
the  government  secluded  the  lepers  in  this  remote  hospital  There  is  an  old  tradi- 
tion that  the  leprosy  was  introduced  into  this  region  during  the  last  century,  when 
a  French  vessel  was  wrecked  on  the  coast,  some  of  whose  sailors  were  from  Mar- 
seilles and  had  contracted  the  true  elephantiasis  gracorum  (Eastern  leprosy)  in  the 
Levant.  Its  perpetuation  and  hereditary  transmission  is  attributed  to  the  closeness 
of  the  relation  in  which  intermarriage  is  sanctioned  among  the  Acadians  (sometimes 
by  dispensations  from  the  Church) 

Pockmouche  is  a  settlement  of  800  Acadian  farmers,  and  here  the  mail-route 
forks,  — one  road  running  6  M.  N.  E.  to  Shippigan  (see  page  64),  the  other  run- 
ning 9  M.  N.  to  Lower  Caraquette  (see  page  66}. 

Biver-stenmers  run  up  the  N.  W.  and  S.  W.  branches,  and  occasionally  to  Burnt 
Church  and  Uay  du  Vin.  Another  river-steamer  runs  up  the  river  four  times  daily 
to  Newcastle  (6  M.),  touching  at  Douglastown,  a  dingy  village  ou  the  N.  bank,  \vhere 
much  lumber  is  loaded  on  the  ships  which  take  it  hence  to  Europe.  This  village 
contains  about  400  inliabitants,  and  has  &  marine  hospital,  built  of  stone. 


Newcastle  (  Waverley  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  Northumberland  County, 
and  is  situated  at  the  head  of  deep-water  navigation  on  the  Mirainichi 
River.  It  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  engaged  in  shipbuilding 
and  the  exportation  of  fish  and  lumber,  oysters,  and  preserved  lobsters. 
One  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  is  located  here,  and  a 
branch  line  has  been  built  to  Chatham.  150,000,000  ft.  of  lumber  are  ex- 
ported hence  annually.    There  are  5  churches  here. 

A  short  distance  above  Newcastle,  and  beyond  the  Irish  village  of  Nel- 
son, is  the  confluence  of  the  great  rivers  known  as  the  N.  W.  MiramichI 
and  the  S.  W.  Miramichi.  These  streams  are  crossed  by  the  largest  and 
most  costly  bridges  on  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway.  The  name 
Miramichi  signifies  "  Happy  Retreat,"  and  signifies  the  love  that  the  In- 
dians entertained  for  these  fine  hunting  and  fishing  grounds.  The  upper 
waters  of  the  rivers  traverse  wide  districts  of  unsettled  country,  and  are 
visited  by  hardy  and  adventurous  sportsmen,  who  capture  large  numbers 
of  trout  and  salmon.  This  sj'stem  of  waters  is  connected  by  portages  with 
the  Nepisiguit,  the  Restigouche,  the  Upsalquitch,  the  Tobique,  and  the 
Nashwaak  Rivers.  The  best  salmon-pools  are  on  the  S.  W.  Miramichi, 
beyond  Boiestown,  at  the  mouths  of  the  Salmon,  Rocky,  Clearwater,  and 
Burnt  Hill  Brooks.  A  tri-weekly  stage  runs  from  Newcastle  to  Boies- 
town  and  Fredericton  (see  page  46),  traversing  106  M.  of  a  rude  and 
sparsely  settled  country. 


SHIPPIGAN  ISLAND. 


ItouU  15.      63 


Beavbmr's  Tslattd  is  off  upper  Nel-^o  ad  ^ras  fonnerly  ocenpied  by  a  prmperdtu 
French  town,  but  few  relics  of  whici  -i  now  to  be  seen.  It  was  destroyed  by  a 
British  naval  attack  in  1759.  A  coW.„  was  planted  here  in  1722,  under  Cardinal 
Fleury's  administration,  and  was  provided  with  200  houses,  a  church,  and  a  16-gun 
battery. 

In  1642-44  the  Miramichi  district  was  occupied  by  Jean  Jaques  Enaud,  a  Basque 
gentleman,  who  founded  trading-posts  on  the  islands  and  entered  also  upon  the 
walrus  fisheries.  But  a  contention  soon  arose  between  Enaud's  men  and  the  In- 
dians, by  reason  of  which  the  Basque  establishment:)  were  destroyed,  and  their  peo- 
ple were  forced  to  flee  to  Nepislguit.  In  1672,  after  the  Treaty  of  Breda,  several 
families  from  St.  Malo  landed  on  this  coast  and  founded  a  villafre  at  Bay  du  Vin. 
t'rom  1740  to  1757  a  flourishinpc  trade  was  carried  on  between  the  Miramichi  county 
and  France,  great  quantities  of  furs  being  exported.  But  the  crops  failed  in  176f, 
and  the  relief-ships  from  France  were  captured  by  the  British.  In  the  winter  of 
1758  the  transport  I,' /nrff'ennc,  of  Morlaix,  was  wrecked  in  the  bay,  and  the  dis- 
heartened colonists,  famished  and  pestilence-stricken,  were  rapidly  depleted  by 
death.  Many  of  the  French  settlers  died  during  the  winter,  and  were  buried  on 
Beaubair's  Point.  Those  who  survived  fled  from  the  scene  of  such  bitter  sulTering, 
and  by  the  arrival  of  spring  there  were  not  threescore  inhabitants  about  the  bay. 

In  1759  a  British  war-vessel  entered  the  bay  for  wood  and  water,  and  the  first 
boat's-crew  which  landed  was  cut  off  and  exterminated  by  the  Indians.  The  frigate 
bombarded  the  French  Fort  batteries,  and  annihilated  the  town  at  Canadian  Cove. 
Then  sailing  to  the  N.  E.,  the  commander  landed  a  force  at  Neguac,  and  burnt  the 
Catholic  chapel,  the  inhabitants  having  fled  to  the  woods.  Neguac  is  known  to  this 
day  only  by  the  name  of  Burnt  Church.  After  this  fierce  foray  all  the  N.  coast  of 
New  Brunswick  was  deserted  and  relapsed  into  a  wilderness  state. 

In  1775  there  was  an  insignificant  Scotch  trading-post  on  the  S.  W.  Miramichi, 
where  1,500  - 1,800  tierces  of  salmon  were  caught  annually.  This  was  once  surprised 
and  plundered  by  the  Indiana  in  sympathy  with  the  Americans,  but  in  1777  the 
river  was  visited  by  the  sloop-of-war  Viper  and  the  captured  American  privateer 
Lafayette.  The  American  flag  was  displayed  on  the  latter  vessel,  and  it  was  given 
out  that  her  crew  were  Bostonians,  by  which  means  35  Indians  from  the  great  coun- 
cil at  Bartibog  were  decoyed  on  board  and  carried  captive  to  Quebec. 

la  1786  the  Scottish  settlers  opened  large  saw-mills  on  the  N.  W.  Miramichi,  and 
several  families  of  American  Loyalists  settled  along  the  shore.  Yast  numbers  of 
masts  and  spars  were  sent  hence  to  the  British  dock-yards,  and  the  growth  of  the 
Miramichi  was  rapid  and  satisfactory.  In  1793  the  Indians  of  the  hills  gathered 
secretly  and  concerted  plans  to  exterminate  the  settlers  (who  had  mostly  taken 
refuge  in  Chatham),  but  the  danger  was  averted  by  the  interposition  of  the  French 
Catholic  priests,  who  caused  the  Indians  to  disperse. 

In  October,  1825,  this  district  was  desolated  by  the  great  Miramichi  Fire,  which 
swept  over  3,000,0()0  acres  of  forest,  and  destroyed  $  1,000,000  worth  of  property  and 
160  human  lives.  The  town  of  Newcastle  was  laid  in  ashes,  and  all  the  lower  Mi- 
ramichi  Valley  became  a  blackened  wilderness.  The  only  escape  for  life  was  by 
rushing  into  the  rivers  while  the  storm  of  fire  passed  overhead ;  and  here,  nearly 
covered  by  the  hissing  waters,  were  men  and  women,  the  wild  animals  of  the  woods, 
and  the  domestic  beasts  of  the  farm. 

On  leaving  the  Miramichi  River  and  Bay  the  vessel  steams  out  into  the 
Gulf,  leaving  on  the  N.  W.  the  lovjr  shores  of  Tabusintac  and  Tracadic,  in- 
dented by  wide  and  shallow  lagoons  (see  page  62).    After  running  about 
1 85  M.  the  low  red  cliffs  of  Shippigan  Island  are  seen  on  the  W.    This 
I  island  is  12  M.  long  by  8  M.  wide,  and  is  inhabited  by  Acadian  fishermen. 
;  On  the  S.  W.  shore  is  the  hamlet  of  Alexander  Point,  on  Alemek  Bay, 
fopposite  the  populous  village  and  magnificent  harbor  of  Shippigan.    There 
are  valuable  fisheries  of  herring,  cod,  and  mackerel  off  these  shores,  and 
the  deep  triple  harbor  is  well  sheltered  by  the  islands  of  Shippigan  and 
Pocksuedie,  forming  a  secure  haven  of  refuge  for  the  American  and  Gan»* 
dian  fleets.    Noble  wild-duck  shooting  here  in  spring  and  fall. 


-*i**%-lirii,**K.:.4**v. 


64      MotUe  15. 


BAY  OF  CHALEUR. 


!  I 


Shlpplgan  Harbor^  though  itill  rarroonded  by  forests,  has  occupied  a  prom- 
Inent  place  in  the  calculations  of  commerce  and  travel.  It  has  been  proposed  that 
the  Intercolonial  Railway  shall  connect  here  with  a  transatlantic  steamship  Une, 
thus  withdrawing  a  large  portion  of  the  summer  travel  from  Hali&x  and  New  York. 
The  distance  from  Shippigan  to  Liverpool  by  the  Straits  of  Belleisle  is  148  M.  less 
thnn  the  distance  fh>m  Halifax  to  Liverpool,  and  Shippigan  is  271 M.  nearer  Montreal 
than  is  Halifax. 

The  Ocean  Ferry. — The  following  plan  is  ingeniously  elaborated  and  pow- 
erfully supported,  and  is  perhaps  destined  to  reduce  the  transatlantic  passage  to 
100  hours.  It  is  to  be  carried  out  with  strong,  swift  express-steamers  on  the  Ocean 
and  the  Gulf,  and  through  trains  on  the  railways.  The  itinerary  is  as  follows : 
London  to  Valentia,  640  M.,  16  hours  ;  Yalentia  to  St.  John's,  N.  F..  1,640  M.,  100 
hours;  St.  John's  to  St.  George's  Bay  (across  Newfoundland  by  railway),  250  M., 
8^  hours;  St.  George's  Bay  to  Shippigan  (acrof>8  the  Gulf),  250  M.,  16^  hours; 
Shippigan  to  New  York,  906  M.,  31  hours  ;  London  to  New  York,  171  hours,  or  7^ 
days.  It  is  claimed  that  this  route  would  escape  the  dangers  between  Cape  Race 
and  New  York ;  would  give  usually  quiet  passages  across  the  Gulf;  would  diversify 
the  monotony  of  the  long  voyage  by  three  transfers,  and  would  save  4-6  days  on 
the  recorded  averages  of  the  steamships  between  New  York  and  Liverpool  (see  maps 
and  details  in  Sandford  Fleming's  "  Intercolonial  Railway  Survey"). 

The  steamer  now  crosses  the  Miscou  Banks,  and  approaches  Uiscou 
Island,  which  is  20  M.  in  circumference  and  contains  about  300  inhab- 
itants. On  its  S.  shore  is  a  fine  and  spacious  harbor,  which  is  much  used 
as  a  place  of  refuge  in  stormy  weather  by  the  American  fishing-fleets. 

Settlements  were  formed  here  early  in  the  17th  century  by  the  French,  for  the 
purpose  of  hunting  the  walrus,  or  sea-cow.  Such  an  exterminating  war  was  waged 
upon  this  valuable  aquatic  animal  that  it  soon  became  extinct  in  the  Gulf,  and  was 
followed  into  the  Arctic  Zone.  Within  five  years  a  few  walruses  have  been  seen  in 
the  Gulf,  and  it  is  hoped  that  they  may  once  more  enter  these  waters  in  droves.  At 
an  early  date  the  Jesuits  established  the  mission  of  St.  Charles  de  Miscou,  but  the 
priests  were  soon  killed  by  the  climate,  and  no  impression  had  been  made  on  the 
'Indians.  It  is  claimed  that  there  may  still  be  seen  the  ruins  of  the  post  of  the  Royal 
Company  of  Miucou,  which  y>aB  founded  in  1635  for  the  pursuit  offish  and  walruses, 
and  for  a  time  derived  a  great  revenue  from  this  district.  Fortifications  were  also 
erected  here  by  M.  Denys,  Sieur  de  Fronsac. 

The  steamer  alters  her  course  gradually  to  the  W.  and  passes  the 
fixed  red  light  on  Birch  Point,  and  Point  Miscou,  with  its  high  green 
knoll.  Between  Point  Miscou  and  Cape  Despair,  26  M.  N.,  is  the  en- 
trance to  the  Bay  of  Chaleur. 


The  Bay  oi  Chaleur  was  known  to  the  Indians  by  the  name  of  Ecketuam 
Nemaache,  signifying  "a  Sea  of  Fish,"  and  that  name  is  still  applicable, 
since  the  bay  contains  every  variety  of  fish  known  on  these  coasts.  It  is 
90  M.  long  and  from  10  to  25  M.  wide,  and  is  nearly  free  from  shoals  or 
dangerous  reefs.  The  waters  are  comparatively  tranquil,  and  the  air  is 
clear  and  bracing  and  usually  free  from  fog,  affording  a  marked  contrast 
to  the  climate  of  the  adjacent  Gulf  coasts.  The  tides  are  regular  and  have 
but  little  velocity.  The  length  of  the  bay,  from  Point  Miscou  to  Camp- 
bellton,  is  about  110  M.  These  waters  are  visited  every  year  b}-^  great 
American  fleets,  manned  by  the  hardy  seamen  of  Cape  Cod  and  Glouces- 
ter, and  valuable  cargoes  of  fish  are  usually  carried  back  to  the  Massa- 
ohusetts  ports. 


BATHURST. 


MmOe  IS.      65 


u  occupied  a  prom- 
I  been  proponed  that 
Dtic  steamship  line, 
li&x  and  New  York. 
iUeisle  is  148  M.  less 
L  M.  nearer  Montreal 

elaborated  and  pow- 
satlantic  passage  to 
iamers  on  the  Ocean 
;rary  is  as  follows: 
N.  F.,  1,640  M.j  100 
)y  railway),  250  M., 
250  M.,  16^  hours; 
rk,  171  hours,  or  7i 
i  between  Cape  Race 
ulf;  would  divereify 
save  4-6  days  on 
Liverpool  (see  maps 
jy")- 

tproaches  Hiscou 
about  800  inhab- 
lich  is  much  used 
fishing-fleets. 

the  French,  for  the 
iting  war  was  waged 
in  the  Oulf,  and  was 
i  have  been  seen  in 
raters  in  droves.  At 
i  de  Miscou,  but  the 
been  made  on  the 
he  post  of  the  Royal 
)f  fish  and  walruees, 
■tiflcations  were  also 


and  passes  the 
h  its  high  green 
)i.  N.,  is  the  en- 


lame  of  Ecketuam 
still  applicable, 
ese  coasts.  It  is 
ee  from  shoals  or 
il,  and  the  air  is 
marked  contrast 
regular  and  liave 
Miscou  to  Camp- 
y  year  by  great 
od  and  Glouces- 
sk  to  the  Massa- 


This  bay  wu  discoTered  by  Jaques  Cartler  in  the  summer  of  1636,  and,  from  the 
flict  that  the  heated  season  was  at  its  height  at  that  time,  he  named  it  La  Bait  de$ 
Chaleurs  (the  Bay  of  Heats).  On  the  earliest  maps  it  is  also  called  La  Bate  des 
Espagnols,  indicating  that  it  was  frequented  by  Spanish  vessels,  probably  for  the 
purposes  of  fishing. 

In  these  waters  is  located  the  scene  of  the  old  legend  of  the  Massachusetts  coast, 
relative  to  Skipper  Ireaon's  misdeed,  which,  with  the  record  of  its  punishment,  has 
I  been  commemorated  in  the  poetry  of  Whittier :  — 


"  Small  pity  for  him  I  —  He  sailed  away 
From  a  leaking  ship  in  Chaleur  Bay,  — 
Sailed  away  from  a  sinking  wreck. 
With  his  own  town's-people  on  her  deck  I 
•  Lay  by !  lay  by ! '  they  called  to  him ; 
Back  he  answered,  *  Sink  or  swim  1 
Brag  of  your  catch  of  fish  again  1 ' 
And  off  he  sailed  through  the  fog  and  ndn. 
Old  Floyd  Ireson,  for  nis  hard  neart. 
Tarred  and  feathered  and  carried  in  a  cart 
By  the  women  of  Marblehead. 


"  Fathoms  deep  In  dark  Chaleur 
That  wreck  snail  lie  forevermore. 
Mother  and  sister,  wife  ami  maid. 
Looked  from  the  rocks  of  Marblehead 
Over  tlie  moaning  and  rainy  sea,— 
Looked  for  the  coming  that  might  not  be  I 
What  did  the  winds  and  the  sea-birds  say 
Of  the  cruel  captain  who  sailed  away  ?  — 
Old  Floyd  Ireson,  for  his  hard  heart. 
Tarred  and  feathered  and  carried  in  a  eait 
By  the  women  of  Marblehead." 

When  well  within  the  bay  the  steamer  assumes  a  course  nearly  S.  W., 
leaving  Miscou  and  Shippigan  Islands  astern.  The  broad  Caraqtiette  Bay 
is  on  the  S.,  and  the  New-Bandon  shores  (see  page  66)  are  followed  into 
Nepisiguit  Bay.    The  harbor  of  Bathurst  is  entered  by  a  strait  two  cables 

[wide,   between  Alston  Point  and  Carron  Point,  on  the  latter  of  which 

[there  are  red  and  white  beacon-lights. 

Bathurst  (Wilbur  House),  the  capital  of  Gloucester  County,  has  1,000 

[inhabitants,  and  stands  on  a  peninsula  2^  M.  from  the  bay.  Large  quan- 
tities of  fish  are  sent  hence  to  the  American  cities;  and  the  exportation  of 

[frozen  salmon  has  become  an  important  business.  The  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way has  a  station  near  Bathurst.  The  beautiful  Basin  of  Bathurst  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  four  rivers,  and  its  shores  are  already  well  populated 

[by  farmers.  Pleasant  drives  and  sailing  routes  amid  lovely  scenery  abound 
hereabouts,  and  give  Bathurst  a  summer-resort  air.    It  is  3  M.  to  the  fine 

[beach  of  Alston  Point,  near  which  there  are  farm  boarding-houses. 

The  Basin  of  Bathurst  was  called  by  the  Indians  Winkapiguwiek,  or  Nepisiguit, 
[signifying  the  "  Foaming  Waters."    It  was  occupied  in  1638  by  M.  Enaud,  a  wealthy 
[Basque  gentleman,  and  his  retainers,  forming  a  town  called  St.  Pierre.   Enaud  mar- 
tried  a  Mohawk  princess,  founded  mills,  and  established  an  extensive  fur-trade^  ereet- 
iing  a  commodious  mansion  at  Abshaboo  (Goal  Point),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nepisiguit. 
■But  some  family  troubles  ensued,  and  Madame  Enaud's  brother  slew  her  husband, 
jafter  which  the  French  settlements  were  plundered  by  the  Indians,  and  such  of  the 
jlDhabitants  as  could  not  escape  by  way  of  the  sea  were  massacred. 
I    By  1670  the  Chaleur  shores  were  again  studded  with  French  hamlets,  and  occn* 
|pied  by  an  industrious  farming  population.     In  1692  the  Micmacs  confederated 
against  them,  and,  under  the  command  of  the  sagamore  Halion,  completely  devas- 
■  ited  the  whole  district  and  compelled  the  settlers  to  fly  to  Canada.    Thenceforward 
jfor  74  years  this  country  was  unvisited  by  Europeans.    In  1764  a  Scotch  trading- 
post  and  fort  was  erected  at  Alston  Point,  on  the  N.  shore  of  Bathurst  harbor,  and 
thence  were  exported  great  quantities  of  furs,  moose-skins,  walrus  hides  and  tusks, 
md  salmon.    In  1776  this  flourishing  settlement  was  destroyed  by  American  priva- 
teers, which  also  devastated  the  other  shores  of  Chaleur.    The  present  town  was 
funded  in  1818  by  Sir  Howard  Douglas,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Earl  of 
bathurst. 

The  Nepisig^t  River  empties  into  Bathurst  harbor,  and  is  famous  for 
[its  fine  fishing.    The  riparian  owners  have  sold  their  fishing  rights  to  Bos- 


66     Jtoute  15, 


CARAQUETTE. 


I 


ton  people,  and  to  the  Nepisiguit  Angling  Club  of  St.  John,  N.  B.,  from 
whom  a  fishing  permit  may  be  bought.  A  road  ascends  for  35  M., 
passing  the  Rough  Waters,  the  brilliant  rapids  of  the  Pabineau  Falls  (9  M . 
up),  the  dark  pools  of  the  Betaboc  reach,  the  Chain  of  Rocks,  and  the 
Narrows.  The  *  Grand  Falls  of  the  Nepisiguit  are  20  M.  above  Bathurst, 
and  consist  of  4  distinct  and  step-like  cliffs,  with  a  total  height  of  140  ft. 
They  are  at  the  head  of  the  Narrows,  where  the  river  flows  for  3-4  M. 
through  a  canon  between  high  cliffs  of  slaty  rock.  The  river  boldly  takes 
the  leap  over  this  Titanic  stairway,  and  the  ensuing  roar  is  deafening, 
while  the  base  of  the  cliff  is  shrouded  in  white  spray.  From  the  profound 
depths  at  the  foot  the  river  whirls  away  in  a  black  and  foam-flecked 
course  for  2  M. 

"  Good  by,  lovely  Nepisiguit,  stream  of  the  beautiful  pools,  the  fisherman's 
elyslum;  farewell  to  thy  merry,  noisy  current,  thy  long  quiet  stretches,  thy  high 
bluffs,  thy  wooded  and  thy  rocky  shores.  Long  may  thy  mueic  lull  the  innocent 
angler  into  day-dreams  of  happiness.  Long  may  thy  romantic  scenery  charm  the 
eye  and  gladden  the  heart  of  the  artist,  and  welcome  the  angler  to  a  happy  sylvan 
home."    (Roosevelt.) 

The  *  Grand  Falls  of  the  Tete-A-gouche  River  are  about  8  M.  W.  of  Bathurst,  and 
may  be  visited  by  carriage.  The  river  here  falls  about  80  ft.,  amid  a  wild  confusion 
of  rocks  and  cli^. 

Tri-weekly  stages  run  E.  from  Bathurst  to  Salmon  Beach,  8  M. ;  James- 
ville,  12;  Clifton,  15;  New  Bandon,  20;  Pockshaw,  23;  Grand  Anse,  28; 
Upper  Caraquette,  36;  Lower  Caraquette,  43;  Shippigan,  60.  Fare  to 
Caraquette,  $  3.60.  This  road  follows  the  shores  of  the  Nepisiguit  Bay  and 
the  Bay  of  Chaleur  for  nearly  30  M.  The  hamlets  of  Clifton  (small  inn) 
and  New  Bandon  were  settled  by  Irish  immigrants,  and  are  now  engaged 
in  making  grindstones.  Pockshaw  has  an  inn  and  about  600  inhabitants. 
Grand  Anse  is  an  Acadian  settlement,  and  has  700  inhabitants,  who  are 
engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.  Thence  the  road  runs  8  M.  S.  E.  to  Upper 
Caraquette,  where  there  are  about  600  Acadlans.  Lower  Caraquette  (two 
inns)  is  a  French  village  of  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  famous  for  its  strong, 
swift  boats  and  skilful  mariners. 

Caraquette  was  founded  in  1768  by  a  colony  of  Bretons,  and  owed  a  part  of  its 
early  growth  to  intermarriages  with  the  Micmacs.  It  is  a  long  street  of  farms  in  the 
old  Acadian  style,  and  is  situated  in  a  fruitful  and  well-cultivated  country.  The 
view  ftom  the  hills  over  the  village,  and  especially  from  the  still  venerated  spot 
where  the  old  chapel  stood,  is  very  pleasant,  and  includes  Miscou  and  Shippigan, 
the  Gaspe  ports,  and  the  bold  Quebec  shores.  The  Jersey  house  of  Robin  &  Co. 
has  one  of  its  fishing-establishments  here,  and  does  a  large  business. 

Caraquette  is  one  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  N.  shore  fisheries.  In  the  year  1873 
the  f  sh  product  of  the  three  lower  Maritime  Provinces  amounted  to  the  value  of 
B 9,060,342.  Nova  Scotia  caught  $0,577,086  worth  of  fish;  and  New  Brunswick 
caught  $2,285,660  worth,  of  which  .fl  527,312  were  of  salmon,  $500,306  of  herring, 
8346,926  of  lobsters,  $338,699  of  codfish,  » 108,514  of  alewives,  $90,065  of  hake, 
$64,396  of  pollock,  $45,480  of  oysters,  $41,851  of  smelt,  and$35,477  of  mackerel. 

The  line  of  the  highway,  and  the  noble-viewing  railway  track  (with  several  sta- 
tions) follow  the  coast  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  to  the  N.  W.  to  Medisco :  Rochette,  12  M. ; 
Belledune,  20;  Belledune  River,  24  ;  Armstrong's  Brook,  28;  River  Louison,  33; 
New  Mills,  38 ;  River  Charlo,  44  ;  and  Dalhousie,  52.  Medisco  and  Rochette  are 
Vrenoh  villages ;  the  others  are  of  British  origin,  and  none  of  them  have  as  many 


DALHOUSIE. 


Jioute  15.      67 


Fohn,  N.  B.,  from 
ends  for  35  M., 
ibineau  Falls  (9  M. 
of  Rocks,  and  the 
VI.  above  Bathurst, 
height  of  140  ft. 
flows  for  3-4  M. 
I  river  boldly  takes 
roar  is  deafening, 
From  the  profound 
and  foam-flecked 


;ach,  8  M. ;  James- 
;  Grand  Anse,  28 ; 
gan,  60.  Fare  to 
Jepisiguit  Bay  and 
^lifton  (small  inn) 
are  now  engaged 
t  600  inhabitants, 
abitants,  who  are 
M.  S.  E.  to  Upper 
r  CaraqtieUe  (two 
3us  for  its  strong, 


as  600  inhabitants.  Biany  small  streamB  enter  the  bay  flrom  this  coast,  and  the 
whole  district  is  famous  for  its  fishing  and  hunting  (water-fowl).  The  line  of  this 
sboie  is  followed  by  the  Intercolonial  Railway. 

Off  Bathurst  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  is  over  25  M.  wide,  and  the  steamer 
passes  out  and  takes  a  course  to  the  N.  W.,  passing  the  hamlet  of  Rochette, 
and  soon  rounding  Belledune  Point.    The  imposing  highlands  of  the  Gas- 

I  pesian  peninsula  are  seen  on  the  N.  with  the  peak  of  Tracadiegash.  The 
passage  between  Tracadiegash  Point  and  Heron  Island  is  about  7  M.  wide; 
and  6-8  M.  beyond  the  steamer  passes  Maguacha  Point  {Magvxicha^  In- 

[dian  for  "Always  Red")  on  the  r.,  and  enters  the  Restigouche  Harbor. 

"  To  the  person  approaching  by  steamer  from  the  sea,  is  presented  one  of  the 
I  most  superb  and  fascinating  panoramic  views  in  Canada.  The  whole  region  is 
[  mountsvinous,  and  almost  precipitous  enough  to  be  alpine;  but  its  grandeur  is 
derived  less  from  cliffs,  chasms,  and  peaks,  than  from  far-reaching  sweeps  of  out- 
line, and  continually  rising  domes  that  mingle  with  the  clouds.  On  the  Gasp6 
side  precipitous  cliffs  of  brick-red  sandstone  flank  the  shore,  so  lofty  that  they 
seem  to  cast  their  gloomy  shadows  half-way  across  the  Bay,  and  yawning  with 
rifts  and  gullies,  through  which  fretful  torrents  tumble  into  the  sea.  Behind 
them  the  mountains  rise  and  fall  in  long  undulations  of  ultramarine,  and,  tow- 
ering  above  them  all,  is  the  famous  peak  of  Tracadiegash  flashing  in  the  sunlight 
like  a  pale  blue  amethyst."    (Hallock.) 

Dalhonsie  (Ave  hotels)  is  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  long  estuary  of  the  Restij  ouclie,  and  is  the  capital  of 
Restigouche  County.  It  faces  on  the  harbor  from  three  sides,  and  has 
great  facilities  for  commerce  and  for  handling  lumber.  The  manufacture 
and  exportation  of  lumber  are  here  carried  on  on  a  large  scale ;  and  the 
town  is  also  famous  for  its  shipments  of  lobstei's  and  salmon.  The  salmon 
fisheries  in  this  vicinity  are  of  great  value  and  productiveness.  The  line 
of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  is  about  4  M.  S.  of  Dalhousie.  The  site  of 
this  port  was  called  Sickadomec  by  the  Indians.  50  years  ago  there  were 
but  two  log-houses  here,  but  the  district  was  soon  occupied  by  hardy 
Highlanders  from  Arran,  whose  new  port  and  metropolis  was  "located  in 
an  alpine  wilderness."  Directly  back  of  the  village  is  Mt.  Dalhousie^ 
and  the  harbor  is  protected  by  the  high  shores  of  Dalhousie  Island.  Bo- 
nami  Point  is  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  has  a  fixed  white  light; 
and  Fleurant  Point  is  opposite  the  town,  across  the  estuary. 

"  The  Bay  of  Chaleur  preserves  a  river-like  character  for  some  distance  from  the 
I  point  where  the  river  may  strictly  be  said  to  terminate,  and  certainly  offers  tbo 

most  beautiful  scenery  to  be  seen  in  the  Province From  Mr.  Fraser's  to  the 

sea,  a  distance  of  some  20  M.  by  water,  or  14  by  land,  the  course  of  the  river  is 
[really  beautiful.  Swollen  to  dimensions  of  majestic  breadth,  it  flows  calmly  on, 
lamong  picturesque  and  lofty  hills,  undisturbed  by  rapids,  and  studded  with  in- 

I  numerable  islands  covered  with  the  richest  growth  of  elm  and  maple The 

I  whole  of  the  distance  from  Campbellton  to  Dalhousie,  a  drive  of  17  M.  along  the  coast 
lof  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  on  an  excellent  high-road,  presents  a  succession  of  beautiful 
iTie\7s  across  the  narrow  bay,  in  which  Tracadiegash,  one  of  the  highest  of  the  Gasp6 
jmountains,  always  forms  a  conspicuous  object,  jutting  forward  as  it  does  into  the 
{sea  below  Dalhousie."      (Hon.  Arthur  Gordon) 

"  Nothing  can  exceed  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  the  approach  to  the  estuary  of 
Ithe  llestigouche.  The  pointed  hills  in  the  background,  the  deep  green  forest  with 
tits  patches  of  cultivation,  and  the  clear  blue  of  the  distant  mountains,  form  a  pic- 
I  ture  of  the  most  exquisite  kind."    (Sir  R.  Bonntcastle.  ) 


TP^ 


68      JRoute  IS. 


CAMPBELLTON. 


! 


I       ! 


"The  expftnae  of  three  miles  acron  the  month  of  the  Bestigonohe,  the  dream j 
alpine  land  beyond,  and  the  broad  plain  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  present  one  of  the 
moet  Hplendid  and  fascinating  panoramic  prospects  to  be  found  on  the  continent  of 
America,  and  has  alone  rewarded  us  for  the  pilgrimage  we  have  made."  (Charles 
Lanman.) 

Tlie  estuary  of  the  Restigouche  is  2  -  4  M.  wide,  and  extends  from  Dal- 
housie  to  Campbellton,  about  16  M.  PoirU  a  la  Garde  is  9  M.  above  Dal- 
housie  on  the  N.  shore,  and  is  a  bold  perpendicular  promontory  overlooking 
the  harbor.  On  this  and  Battzry  Point  (the  next  to  the  W.)  were  the 
extensive  French  fortifications  which  were  destroyed  by  Admiral  Byron's 
British  squadron  in  1780.  Several  pieces  of  artillery  and  other  relics  have 
been  obtained  from  the  water  oflf  these  points.  Battery  Point  is  a  rocky 
promontory  80  ft.  high,  with  a  plain  on  the  top,  and  a  deep  channel  around 
its  shores.  Point  Pleasant  is  4  M.  distant,  and  1  M.  back  is  a  spiral  mass 
of  granite  700  ft.  high,  which  is  accessible  by  natural  steps  on  the  E.  IJ^ 
M.  from  this  peak  is  a  pretty  forest-lake,  in  which  red  trout  are  abundant. 
5  M.  N.  of  Point  a  la  Garde  is  the  main  peak  of  the  Scaumenac  Mts.,  which 
attains  an  altitude  of  1,745  ft. 

Campbellton  (three  hotels)  is  situated  in  a  diversified  region  of  hills  at 
the  head  of  deep-water  navigation  on  the  Restigouche,  which  is  here  1  M. 
wide.  The  Bay-Chaleur  steamboats  leave  here  twice  weekly,  for  Paspebiac, 
Gasp^,  etc.  One  of  the  chief  stations  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  is  lo- 
cated here.  The  adjacent  country  is  highly  picturesque,  and  is  studded 
with  cor  "cal  hills,  the  chief  of  which  is  Sugar  Loaf,  900  ft.  high. 

Mission  Point  is  nearly  opposite  Campbellton,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine 
hill-scenery,  which  has  been  likened  to  that  of  Wales.  The  river  is  rapid 
off  these  shores,  and  abounds  in  salmon.  This  place  is  also  known  as 
Point-a-la-Croix,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  villages  and  reser^'ations  of  the 
Micmac  Indians.     It  has  about  500  inhabitants,  with  a  Catholic  church. 

The  Micmac  language  is  said  to  be  a  dialect  of  tlie  Huron  tongue ;  while  the  Mili- 
cetes,  on  the  St.  John  River,  speak  a  dialect  of  Delaware  origin.  These  two  tribes 
have  an  annual  council  at  Mission  Point,  at  which  delegates  from  the  Penobscot 
Indians  arc  in  attendance.  The  Micmac  nation  occupies  the  waste  places  of  the 
Maritime  Provinces,  from  Newfoundland  to  Gasp^i,  and  numbers  over  6,000  souls. 
These  Indians  arc  daring  and  tireless  hunters  and  fiehcrmcn,  and  lead  a  life  of  con- 
etant  roving,  gathering  annually  at  the  local  capitals,  —  Chapel  Island,  in  Cape 
Breton;  Vonhook  Lake, in  Nova  Scotia;  and  Mission  Point,  in  Quebec.  They  are 
increasing  steadily  in  numbers,  and  arc  becoming  more  valuable  members  of  the 
Canadian  nation.  They  have  hardly  yet  recovered  from  the  terrible  defeat  which 
was  inflicted  on  them  by  an  invading  army  of  Mohawks,  in  1689.  The  flower  of  tlio 
Maritime  tribes  hastened  to  the  border  to  repel  the  enemy,  but  they  were  met  by 
the  Mohawks  in  the  Uestigoucho  country,  and  were  annihilated  on  the  field  of 
battle. 

The  chief  of  the  Micmacs  at  Mission  Point  visited  Queen  Victoria  in  1850,  and  was 
kindly  welcomed  and  received  many  presents.  When  Lord  Aylmer,  Governor-Gen- 
eral of  Canada,  visited  Ga8p6,  he  was  waited  on  by  500  Indians,  whose  chief  made 
him  a  long  harangue.  But  the  tribe  had  recently  recovered  from  a  wreck  (anionR 
other  things)  a  box  of  decanter-labels,  marked  Rum",  Brandy,  Gin,  etc. ,  and  the  noble 
chief,  not  knowing  their  purport,  had  adorned  his  ears  and  nose  with  them,  and 
surrounded  his  head  with  u  crown  of  the  same  materials.  When  the  British  officers 
recognized  the  familiar  names,  they  burst  into  such  a  peal  of  laughter  aa  drove  the 
abfonished  and  incensed  chief  from  their  presence  forever. 


RBSTIGOUCHE  RIVER. 


JtouU  IS.      69 


8  M.  above  Mission  Point  is  Point  au  BourdOf  the  ancient  site  of  La 
Petite  Rochelle,  deriving  its  present  name  from  Capt.  bourdo,  of  tlie  French 
frigate  Marchaulty  who  was  Icilled  in  the  battle  off  this  point  and  was 
buried  here.  Fragments  of  the  French  vessels,  old  artillery,  camp  equip- 
ments, and  shells  have  been  found  in  great  numbers  in  this  vicinity. 

In  1760  Restigouche  was  defended  by  2  batteries,  garrisoned  by  260  French  regu- 
lars, 700  Acadians,  and  700  Indians;  and  in  the  havbor  lay  the  French  war-vessels 
Marchault,  32,  Bienfaisant,  22,  and  Marquis  Madoye,  18,  with  19  prize-ships  which 
had  been  captured  from  the  English.  The  place  was  attacked  by  a  powerful  British 
tieet,  consisting  of  the  Fame,  74,  Dorsetshire,  Scarbarou^h,  Achilles,  and  Repulse,  all 
under  the  command  of  Gommudore  John  Byron  (grandfather  of  the  poet,  Lord  By- 
ron). But  little  resistance  was  attempted;  and  the  French  fleet  and  batteries  sur- 
rendered to  their  formi(*".ble  antagonist.  The  captured  ships  were  carried  to  Louis- 
bourg,  and  the  batteries  and  the  200  houses  of  Restigouche  were  destroyed. 

The  Bestigonohe  Biver  is  a  stately  stream  which  is  navigable  for  135 
M.  above  Campbellton.  It  runs  through  level  lands  for  several  miles  above 
its  mouth,  and  then  is  enclosed  between  bold  and  rugged  shorer.  There 
are  hundreds  of  low  and  level  islands  of  a  rich  and  yearly  replenished  soil; 
and  above  the  Tomkedgwick  are  wide  belts  of  intervale.  80  M.  from  its 
mouth  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Metapedia  River,  flowing  down  from 
the  Metis  Mts. ;  and  85  M.  from  the  mouth  is  the  confluence  of  the  trout- 
abounding  Upsjjlquitch.  21  M.  farther  up  is  the  mouth  of  the  Patapedia; 
and  20  M.  beyond  this  point  the  Tomkedgwick  comes  in  from  the  N.  W. 
This  system  of  waters  drains  over  6,000  square  miles  of  territory,  and  is 
connected  by  portages  with  the  streams  which  lead  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy 
and  the  River  St.  Lawrence. 

Campbellton  to  the  St.  Latvrence  River. 

The  Metapedia  Road  leaves  the  N.  shore  of  the  Restigouche  a  few  miles 
above  Campbellton,  and  strikes  through  the  forest  to  the  N.  W.  for  the  St. 
Lawrence  River.  This  is  the  route  of  the  new  Intercolonial  Railway, 
which  passes  up  through  the  wilderness  to  St.  Flavie.  The  distance  from 
Campbellton  to  St.  Flavie  is  106  M.,  and  the  railway-fare  is  $  3.  This 
road  leads  across  the  barren  highlands  of  Gasp^,  and  through  one  of  the 
most  thinly  settled  portions  of  Canada. 

The  French  hamlet  of  St.  Alexis  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Metapedia 
River.  Metapedia  is  15  M.  above  Campbellton,  and  is  situated  amid  the 
pretty  scenery  at  the  confluence  of  the  Metapedia  and  Restigouche  Rivers. 
The  salmon-fisheries  in  this  vicinity  attract  a  few  enthusiastic  sportsmen 
every  year.  Near  the  confluence  is  the  old  Fraser  mansion,  famous  among 
the  travellers  of  earlier  days.  The  Intercolonial  Railway  crosses  the  Resti- 
gouche in  this  vicinity,  and  has  a  station  at  Metapedia.  60  M.  beyond  this 
village  is  the  Metapedia  Lake. 

The  Metapedia  Lake  is  12  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide,  and  is  surrounded  by 
low  shores  of  limestone,  above  and  beyond  which  are  distant  ranges  of 
highlands.    Its  waters  abound  in  tuladi  (gray  trout),  trout,  and  white-fish, 


70      Route  16.         ST.  JOHN  TO  HALIFAX. 

and  afford  good  Bporting.    The  lake  contaias  a  large  island,  which  is  a 
favorite  breeding-place  of  loonst.  '  . 

8t.  Flavie  (two  inns)  is  a  village  of  450  French  people,  situated  on  the 
S.  shore  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  nnd  is  the  point  where  the  Intercolonial 
Railway  reaches  the  river  and  turns  to  the  S.  W.  towards  Quebec.  It  is 
distant  from  Campbellton,  106  M.;  from  Father  Poiut,  15  M.;  from  Riviere 
du  Loup,  83  M. ;  and  from  Quebec,  210  M. 


!        !i 


11  ' 


I    ! 


16.   St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

The  Intercolonial  Railway. 

This  route  traverFes  the  S.  E.  counties  of  New  Brunswick,  pasfes  the  isthmus  at 
the  head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy;  and  after  crossing  the  Cobequid  Mts.  and  rounding 
the  head  of  Cobequid  Bay,  runs  S.  W.  to  the  city  of  Halifax.  It  tmveraes  some  in- 
teresting districts  and  ha»  a  few  glimpses  of  attractive  scenery,  but  the  views  are 
generally  monotonous  and  without  any  striking  beauties.  During  calm  nnd  pleasant 
iveatber  the  traveller  will  find  the  Annapolis  route  (see  Route  18)  much  the  pleas- 
anter  way  to  go  from  St.  John  to  Halifax. 

There  is  no  change  of  cars  between  St.  John  and  Halifax,  and  baggage  is  checked 
through.     During  the  summer  there  is  a  day  express-train,  leaving  St.  John  at  7 
A.  M.,  and  duo  ac  Halifax  at  7.40  p.  H. ;  and  a  night  express,  leaving  St.  John  at  8.30 ' 
P.  X.,  and  duo  at  Halifax  at  9  a.  u.    Pullman-cars  have  recently  been  introduced  on 
this  line. 

Stations.  —  St.  John;  Moosepath,  3M. ;  Brookville,  5;  Torrybum,6;  River- 
side,?; Rothesay,  0;  QuispiimsiH,  12 ;  Nauwigewauk,17  ;  Hampton, 22;  Pasrekeag, 
26;  Bloomfield,  27;  Norton,  33;  Apohaqui,  39;  Sussex,  44 ;  Plumwesecp,  47; 
Penob-iquis,  51;  Anogance,  60;  Petitcodiac,  66;  PoUet  River,  71;  Salisbury,  76; 
Boundary  Greek,  79 ;  Moncton,  89 ;  Humphrey,  9] ;  Painsec  Junction,  97  (Dorches- 
ter Road,  102  ;  Shediac,  106 ;  Point  du  Chene,  108) ;  Meadow  Brook,  101 ;  Memram- 

Amher^^t,  138 ;  Nappan, 
Springs,  164 ;  River  Philip, 
xui  ,  xiiumti^uij,  j.(»i  vjrLiiiivim-,  ioi,  iTcm,nv/xvu,  jiui  ;  Folly  Lake,  191 ;  London- 
derry, 199;  Debert,  204;  Ishgonish,  208;  Truro,  216;  Johnfon,  220;  Brookfield, 
224 ;  Polly  Bog,  229 ;  Stewiacke,  233 ;  Shubcnacadie,  238 ;  Milford,  242  ;  Elmsdale, 
247 ;  Enfield,  249 ;  Grand  Lake,  264 ;  Wellington,  256 ;  Windsor  Junction,  264 ; 
Rocky  Lake,  266 ;  Bedford,  269  ;  Four-Mile  House,  273 ;  Halifax,  276. 

Fares  from  St.  John.  —  To  Sussex,  1st  class,  $  1.32,  — 2d  class, 88c. ;  to  Moncton, 
Ist  class,  $2.67,  — 2d  class,  $1.78  ;  to  Shediac,  1st  class,  $3,  — 2d  class,  $2  ;  to 
Amhernt,  Istclass,  !!i;3.78,  —  2dcla8S,  82.52;  to  Truro,  Ist  class,  $5.02,— 2d  class, 
9  3.35 ;  to  Halifax;  1st  class,  $  6,  —  2d  clasP,  $  4. 

Fares  from  Halifax.— To  Truro,  1st  class,  $1  86,  —  2d  class,  $1.24  ;  to  Pictou, 
Ist  class,  $318, —2d  class.  $2.12;  to  Amherst,  Ist  class,  $3.78, —  2d class,  $2.62; 
toSheiiliac,  1st  class,  $  4.56,  —  2d  class,  $3.04;  to  Sussex,  1st  class,  $5  31,— .2d 
class,  $  3  54  ;  to  St.  John,  1st  class,  $  6,  —  2d  class,  $  4.  ' 

Way-passengers  can  estimate  their  expenses  easily  on  the  basis  of  3c.  per  mile  for 
1st  class,  ana  2c.  per  mile  for  2d  class  tickets,  which  is  the  tarifif  fixed  by  the 
Canadian  Government  for  all  distances  of  less  than  100  M.  on  its  national  rail- 
ways. 

On  leaving  the  Valley  station,  in  the  city  of  St.  John  (see  page  19),  the 
train  passes  out  into  the  Marsh  Valley,  which  is  ascended  for  several  miles 
(see  page  22).  A  short  distance  beyond  Moosepath  Park  the  line  crosses 
Lawlor^s  Lake  on  an  embankment  which  cost  heavily,  on  account  of  the 
great  depth  to  which  the  ballasting  sunk.  The  Kennebecasis  Bay  is  soon 
seen,  on  the  1.,  and  is  skirted  for  6  M.,  passing  the  villas  of  Rothesay  (see 
page  22),  and  giving  pleasant  viewb  over  the  broad  waters.     Quispam- 


SUSSEX  VALE. 


RouUie.      71 


sis  station  is  8  M.  S.  of  Gondola  Point,  whence  a  feny  crosses  the  Ken- 
nebecasis  to  the  pretty  hamlet  of  Clifton.  The  narrowing  valley  is  now 
followed  to  the  N.  E.,  with  occasional  priimpses  of  the  river  on  the  L 
Hampton  (two  hotels)  is  the  shire-town  of  Kmgs  County,  whose  new  pub- 
lic buildings  are  seen  to  the  r.  of  the  track.  It  is  a  thriving  village  of  re- 
cent origin,  and  is  visited  in  summer  by  the  people  of  St.  John,  on  account 
of  the  hill -scenery  in  the  vicinity. 

St.  Mirtin's,  or  Quaco,  ia  about  80  M.  S.  E. ,  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  is  now 
connected  with  Hampton  by  a  new  railway.  (It  is  also  visited  by  daily  stage 
from  St.  John  in  32  M.,  fare'$  1  60  ;  a  rugged  road.)  This  is  one  of  the  chief  ship- 
building towns  in  the  province,  and  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  with  several  churches 
and  other  public  buildings.  It  was  originally  settled  by  the  King's  Orange  Rangers, 
and  has  recently  become  a  favorite  point  for  summer  excursions  from  St.  John. 
The  hotel  accommodation  is  inferior.  S.  of  the  village  is  the  tall  lighthouse  on 
Quaco  Head,  sustaining  a  revolving  white  light.  The  name  Qkoco  is  a  contraction 
of  the  Indian  words  Gulwa/igahgee,  meaning  "  the  Home  of  the  Sea-cow." 

The  shores  about  Quaco  are  bold  and  picturesque,  fronting  the  Bay  with  lofty 
iron-bound  clifls,  among  which  are  small  strips  of  stony  beaches.  The  strata  are 
highly  inclined  and  in  some  cases  are  strangely  contorted,  while  their  shelves  and 
crevices  are  adoraed  with  pine-trees.  Quaco  Head  is  2  M.  from  St.  Martin's,  and 
is  350  ft.  high,  surrounded  by  cliffs  of  red  sandstone  250  ft  in  height.  Ttiis  bold 
promontory  rises  directly  from  the  sea,  and  is  crowned  by  forests.  The  harbor  of 
Quaco  is  rather  pretty,  whence  it  has  been  likened  to  the  Bay  of  Naples.  Tmey's 
Lake  is  about  5  M.  from  Quaco,  on  the  Loch  Lomond  road,  and  is  noted  for  an 
abundance  of  trout.  10-12  M.  N.  of  the  village  is  the  Mount  Theobald  Lake,  a 
small  round  forest-pool  in  which  trout  are  found  in  great  numbers. 

Hampton  station  is  1  M.  from  the  village  of  Hampton  Ferry,  and  beyond 
Bloomfield  the  train  reaches  Norton,  whence  a  road  runs  7  M.  N.  W.  to 
Springfield,  at  the  head  of  Belleisle  Bay.  Apohaqui  (Apohaqui  Hotel)  is 
a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  on  the  upper  Kennebecasis,  and  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mill-stream  Valley. 

The  train  now  reaches  Sussex  (^Exchange  Hotel),  a  pleasant  little  vil- 
lage of  400  inhabitants,  whence  the  famous  farm-lands  of  the  Sussex  Vale 
stretch  off  to  the  S.  E.  along  the  course  of  Trout  Brook.  There  are  sev- 
eral hamlets  (with  inns)  amid  the  pleasant  rural  scenery  of  the  Vale,  and 
good  trout-fishing  is  found  on  the  smaller  streams.  8  M.  up  is  the  pros- 
perous settlement  of  Seeley's  Mills,  with  650  inhabitants. 

The  Sussex  Yale  was  settled  by  the  military  corps  of  the  New  Jersey  Loyalists 
(most  of  whom  were  Germans),  soon  after  the  Revolutionary  V7ar,  and  it  ia  now 
occupied,  for  the  most  part,  by  their  descendants.  "Oood  roads,  well-executed 
bridges,  cleared  land,  excellent  crops,  comfortable  houses,  high-bred  cattle  and 
horses,  good  conveyances  public  and  private,  commodious  churches,  well-taught 
schools,  well-provided  inns,  and  an  intelligent,  industrious  people,  all  in  the  midst 
of  scenery  lofty,  soft,  rounded,  beautifully  varied  with  hill  and  valley,  mountain 
and  meadow,  forest  and  flood,  have  taicen  the  place  of  the  pathless  wilderness,  the 
endlesa  trees,  the  untaught  Indian,  and  the  savage  moose."    (Pbof.  Johnston.) 

Beyond  Plumweseep  occasional  glimpses  of  the  long  low  ridge  of  Picca- 
dilly Mt.  are  obtained  on  the  r.,  and  Mt.  Pisgah  is  just  N.  of  Penobsquia 
station  (small  inn),  which  is  the  seat  of  the  New  Brunswick  Paper  Manu- 
facturing Co.  and  of  several  salt-works.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  hence  32 
M.  S.  E.  to  the  maritime  village  of  Alma,  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  5  M. 
N.  W.  of  the  shipping-port  of  Foint  Wolf  (Stevens's  Hotel). 


72      noute  le. 


MONCTON. 


dark  gorge  below     t^    '''"'^'*«"«  hedges,  and  then  wh.Vi  ™^«^^ 

•^■?.i'7S="=  - -"^ -^  "• - 


wwoh schoon.r.  .„^  -^-J  ''"'age  of  700 inhnhi^.J*.  has  2hofel        *®'™^*»"''  of  the 


Beyond  S.,isb„„  >t,a^^l"T'      '"^  ^^^^  '"'^'  *"• 
Of  MvigstioB  on  the  Petilcodiac  eivel  £«!•  '  '""'"»"  »'  «>e  head 


BACKVILLB. 


JiouU  16.       73 


Valley..  It  soon  reaches  the  connected  villaireg  of  Memrameook  and  8t, 
Jottph  (three  Inns),  oconpying  the  centre  of  a  prosperous  farming  district 
which  is  inhabit  by  over  1,000  Acadians, — a  pious  an^l  simple-hearted 
Catholic  peasantry,  ^  a  large  portion  of  whom  belong  to  the  prolific  fami- 
lies of  Leblanc,  Cormier,  Gaudct,  and  Boikiuo.  On  th<>  opposite  shore  is 
the  College  of  St.  Joseph  de  Memrameook,  vhero  about  100  students 
(mostly  from  Canada  and  the  United  States)  are  conducted  through  a 
high-school  curriculum  by  12  friars  and  ecclesiastics.  Near  the  college 
is  the  handsome  stone  Church  of  St.  Joseph  de  Memrameook. 

The  Valley  of  the  Memrameook,  down  which  the  train  descends  to  Dor- 
chester, possesses  one  of  the  most  charming  landscapes  in  the  country. 
Two  high  parallel  ridges,  wooded  and  well  settled,  are  seen  on  either 
hand,  while  the  valley  itself,  like  the  Tantramar  Marshes,  is  a  dead  level, 
miles  in  length,  being  made  up  from  the  sea  by  tidal  deposits,  and  in  June 
it  is  an  ocean  of  bright  green.  Dorchester  (Dorchester  Hotel)  is  a  pros- 
perous village  of  800  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
and  among  the  finest  wheat-lands  in  New  Brunswick.  Dorchester  has  4 
churches,  th^  public  buildings  of  Westmoreland  County,  and  numerous 
pleasant  residences.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Memrameook,  at  Rock- 
land, are  quarries  of  freestone,  several  thousand  tons  of  which  are  shipped 
annually  to  Boston  and  New  York.  Shipbuilding  and  shipowning  is  the 
leading  business.  The  traveller  by  train  is  surprised  to  see  vessels  of 
1,000  tons,  being  built  in  the  woods,  two  miles  from  apparent  water. 
They  are  launched  at  high-tides  into  a  creek  at  hand.  A  large  and  im- 
posing freestone  building  on  the  heights  above  the  town  is  the  Maritime 
Penitentiary. 

A  ferry  crosses  Shepody  Bay  to  Hopewell  Cape  (see  page  72) ;  and  6-8  M.  W.  of 
Dorchester  is  Belliveau  village,  nine  tenths  of  whose  inhabitants  belong  to  the  fiuni- 
lies  of  Belliveau,  Gautreault,  and  Slelanqon.  This  settlement  was  named  in  honor 
of  the  venerable  M.  Belliveau,  whose  long  life  extended  from  17S0  to  1840.  In  1776 
many  of  the  Acadians  of  this  vicinity  joined  the  New  England  forces  under  Col. 
Eddy,  who  occupied  Sackville  and  attacked  Fort  Cumberland  (see  page  78). 

The  train  now  runs  E.  12  M.  from  Dorchester  to  Sackville  {Brurmnch 
House),  a  rising  and  prosperous  village  of  about  1,500  inhabitants,  situated 
on  a  red  sandstone  slope  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tantramar  ^  River,  near  the 
head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It  has  ship-yards,  a  stove  foundry,  a  news- 
paper, and  8  churches.  Sackville  is  the  seat  of  the  Mount  Allison  Wes- 
leyan  College,  an  institution  which  was  founded  by  Mr.  C.  F.  Allison,  and 
is  conducted  by  the  Wesleyan  Conference  of  Eastern  British  America.  It 
includes  a  small  college,  a  theological  hall,  and  academies  for  boys  and 
girls.  A  road  leads  from  Sackville  S.  E.  down  the  rugged  headland  be- 
tween Cumberland  Basin  and  Shepody  Bay,  passing  the  marine  hamlets 
of  Woodpoint  (5  M.),  Rockport  (12  M.),  and  N.  Joggins,  14  M.  from  Sack- 
ville, and  nearthe  highlands  of  Cape  Marangouin. 

^  Tcmtranar,  from  the  French  word  IHntamarre,  meaning  "  a  thundering  notM." 

4 


74      Route  16. 


TANTRAMAB  MABSH. 


i! 


SackTilIe  Is  the  point  established  for  the  ontlet  of  the  projected  Bnle  Terte 
Ganalf  a  useAil  work  18  M.  long,  which  would  allow  vessels  to  pasn  from  the  Bay 
of  Fundy  to  the  Qulf  of  St.  Lawrence  without  having  to  round  the  iron-bound  pe- 
ninsula of  Nova  Scotia.  This  canal  has  been  plann^  and  desired  for  6ver  a  cen- 
tury, but  nothing  has  yet  been  done,  except  the  surveying  of  the  istlunus.  Tri- 
weekly stages  run  N.  E.  along  the  telegraph-road  from  Sackvllle  to  Jolicoeur  (10  M. ), 
Baic  Vcrtc  Road  (U  M.),  Baie  Verte  (18  M.,  small  inn),  and  Port  Elgin  (20  M. ;  inn). 
About  16  M.  N.  E.  of  Port  Elgin  is  Ca^e  Tormentine,  "  the  great  headland 
which  forms  the  E.  extremity  of  New  Brunswick  within  the  Gulf.  Indian  Point 
may  be  said  to  form  the  southern,  and  Cape  Jourimain  the  nortliern  points  of  this 
headland,  which  is  a  place  of  importance  in  a  nautical  point  of  view,  not  only  from 
its  position,  but  from  its  dangerous  and  extensive  shoals."  The  submarine  tele- 
graph to  Prince  Edward  Island  crosses  from  Cape  Jourimain ;  and  it  is  from  this 
point  that  the  winter  mail-service  is  conducted,  when  the  mails,  passengers,  and 
baggage  are  subjected  to  an  exciting  and  perilous  trani>it  in  ice-boats  to  Cape  Trav- 
erse. Baie  Verte  is  9  M.  wide  and  11  M.  deep,  but  affords  no  good  shelter.  It  re- 
ceives the  Tiguish  and  Oaspereau  Rivers,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  latter  are  the 
ancient  ruins  of  Fort  Moncton. 

About  200  students  attend  the  Mount-Allison  Educational  Institution. 
Sackville  possesses  40  square  miles  of  marsh  lands,  that  produce  enormous 
crops  of  grasses.  Large  shipments  of  hay  and  cattle  are  made  from  here; 
the  latter  to  the  English  markets.  A  railway  is  now  being  constructed 
to  Cape  Tormentine  (38  M.  E.),  by  a  local  company,  and  will  be  open  for 
traffic  in  1834.  It  is  intended  to  connect  with  the  P.  E.  Island  Railway 
system,  andjto  open  up  a  splendid  agricultural  country.  The  bogs  and 
lakes  at  the  head  of  the  marshes  are  haunts  of  snipe  and  duck,  and  are  a 
favorite  resort  of  sportsmen. 

At  Sackville  the  Halifax  train  crosses  the  Tantramar  River,  and  runs 
out  over  the  wide  Tantramar  Harsh  to  Aulac,  or  Cole's  Island  (stage  to 
Cape  Tormentine),  near  which  it  crosses  the  Aulac  River.  Trains  are 
sometimes  blocked  in  on  these  plains  during  the  snow-storms  of  winter, 
and  the  passengers  are  subjected  to  great  hardships.  The  Missiguash 
River  is  next  crossed,  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  Beausejour  (Cumberland)  on 
the  N.,  and  of  Fort  Beaubassin  (Lawrence)  on  the  S.  These  forts  are  best 
visited  from  Amherst,  which  is  4-6  M.  distant,  and  is  reached  after  trav- 
ersing the  Missiguash  Marrh.  The  Missiguash  River  is  the  boundary 
between  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,  and  Amherst  is  the  first  town 
reached  in  the  latter  Province. 

Fort  Lawrence  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  proposed  Chignecto  Marine 
Railway,  whereby  it  is  intended  to  carry  ships  of  1,000  tons  with  their 
cargoes  between  the  Straits  of  Northumberland  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
a  distance  of  17  M.  The  Canadian  Government  has  subsidized  the  pro- 
ject with  $150,000  per  annum  for  25  years,  and  an  English  Company 
began  work  in  1883.  This  scheme  is  a  subs»...ute  for  the  Baie  Verte 
Canal,  which  was  abandoned  in  1875. 

Amherst  to  Halifax,  see  Route  17. 


Bd  Bale  Tert« 

"ws  from  the  Bay 
f  Jron-bound  p^ 
i  for  dver  a  cen- 
e  istiunus.    Trf. 

great  headland 

Indian  Point 

n  points  of  thia 

',  not  only  from 

submarine  tele- 

"  18  from  this 
passengers,  and 
8  to  Cape  Trav- 
shelter.    it  re- 

^tter  are  the 

il  Institution, 
uce  enormous 
ie  from  here; 
'  constructed 
be  open  for 
nd  Railway 
ie  bogs  and 
c,  and  are  a 

*r,  and  runs 
ad  (stage  to 

Trains  are 
>  of  winter, 
Missiguash 
berland)  on 
'*ts  are  best 

after  trav- 

boundary 

first  town 

to  Marine 
«^ith  their 
►f  Fundy, 
the  pro- 
Company 
aie  Verte 


NOVA    SCOTIA. 


The  Province  of  Nova  Scotia  is  peninsular  in  location,  and  is  connected 
with  the  mainland  by  an  isthmus  8  M.  wide.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  the  Strait  of  Northumberland,  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence; on  the  E.  and  S.  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean;  and  on  the  W.  by  the 
ocean,  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  the  Province  of  New  Brunswick.  Its  length, 
from  Cape  Canso  to  Cape  St.  Mary,  is  383  M.,  and  its  breadth  varies  from 
50  M.  to  104  M.  Tlie  area  of  the  peninsula  is  16,000  square  miles.  The 
population  is  440,572,  of  whom  117,487  are  Roman -Catholics,  112,000  Pres- 
byterians, 83,500  Baptists,  60,255  Church  of  England  people,  51,000  Metho- 
dists, and  68  Unitarians.  405,000  are  natives  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  21,000 
from  the  British  Islands. 

"Acadie  is  much  warmer  in  summer  and  much  colder  in  winter  than 
the  countries  in  Europe  lying  under  the  same  parallels  of  latitude" 
(Southern  France,  Sardinia,  Lombardy,  Genoa,  Venice,  Northern  Tur- 
key, the  Crimea,  and  Circassia).  "The  spring  season  is  colder  and  the 
autumn  more  agreeable  than  those  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Atlantic. 
Its  climate  is  favorable  to  agriculture,  its  soil  generally  fertile.  The  land 
is  well  watered  by  rivers,  brooks,  and  lakes.  The  supply  of  timber  for 
use  and  for  exportation  may  be  considered  as  inexhaustible.  The  fish- 
eries on  the  coasts  are  abundant.  The  harbors  are  numerous  and  excel- 
lent.  Wild  animals  are  abundant,  among  which  are  remarkable  the  moose, 
caribou,  and  red  deer.  Wild  fowl  also  are  plenty.  Extensive  tracts  of 
alluvial  land  of  great  value  are  found  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  These  lands 
have  a  natural  richness  that  dispenses  with  all  manuring;  all  that  is 
wanted  to  keep  them  in  order  is  spade-work.  As  to  cereals,  —  wheat, 
rye,  oats,  buckwheat,  maize,  all  prosper.  The  potato,  the  hop,  flax,  and 
hemp  are  everywhere  prolific.  The  vegetables  of  the  kitchen  garden  are 
successfully  raised.  Of  fruit  there  are  many  wild  kinds,  and  the  apple, 
pear,  plum,  and  cherry  seem  almost  indigenous.  The  vine  thrives ;  good 
grapes  are  often  raised  in  the  open  air.  It  was  said  by  a  French  writer 
that  Acadie  produced  readily  everything  that  grew  in  Old  France,  except 
the  olive. 

"  In  the  peninsula,  or  Acadie  proper,  there  is  an  abundance  of  mineral 
wealth.  Coal  is  found  in  Cumberland  and  Pictou ;  iron  ore,  in  Colchester 
and  Annapolis  Counties ;  gypsum,  in  Hants ;  marble  and  limestone,  in  dif- 
ferent localities;  freestone,  for  building,  at  Remsheg  (Port  Wallace)  and 


mmim 


iirWitTr-i-fiiTiM 


76 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


Picton;  granite,  near  Halifax,  Shelbame,  etc.;  brick  clay,  in  the  counties 
of  Halifax  and  Annapolis.  The  amethysts  of  Parrsborough  and  its  vicin- 
ity have  been  long  celebrated,  and  pearls  have  been  found  lately  in  the 
Annapolis  River.  The  discovery  of  gold  along  the  whole  Atlantic  shore  of 
t^e  peninsula  of  Nova  Scotia  has  taken  place  since  1860,  and  it  now  gives 
steady  remunerative  employment  to  about  800  or  1,000  laborers,  with 
every  expectation  of  its  expansion."  (Beamish  Murdoch.)  The  pro- 
duction of  gold  from  the  Nova-Scotia  mines  amounts  to  $  400,000  a  year. 

In  1881,  Nova  Scotia  had  440,572  inhabitants,  of  whom  146,027  are  of 
Scotch  origin,  128,986  English,  66,067  Irish,  41,219  French.  Of  these, 
117,487  are  Roman  Catholics,  112,488  Presbyterians,  83,761  Baptists, 
60,255  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  50,811  Methodists. 

The  territory  now  occupied  by  the  Maritime  Provinces  was  known  for 
nearly  two  centuries  by  the  name  of  Acadie,^  and  was  the  scene  of  fre- 
quent wars  between  Britain  and  France.  Its  first  discoverers  were  the 
Northmen,  about  the  year  1000  a.  d.,  and  Sebastian  Cabot  rediscovered 
it  in  1498.  In  1518  and  1598  futile  attempts  were  made  by  French  nobles 
to  found  colonies  here,  and  French  fishermen,  fur-traders,  and  explorers 
frequente4  these  shores  for  over  a  century.  In  1605  a  settlement  was 
founded  at  Port  Royal,  after  the  discoveries  of  De  Monts  and  Champlain, 
but  it  was  broken  up  in  1618  by  the  Virginians,  who  claimed  that  Acadie 
belonged  to  Britain  by  virtue  of  Cabot's  discovery.  In  1621  James  I. 
of  England  granted  to  Sir  William  Alexander  the  domain  called  Nova 
Scotia,  including  all  the  lands  £.  of  a  line  drawn  from  Passamoquoddy 
Bay  N.  to  the  St.  Lawrence;  but  this  claim  was  renounced  in  1632,  and 
the  rival  French  nobles,  La  Tour  and  D'Aulnay,  commenced  their  fratri- 
cidal wars,  each  striving  to  be  sole  lord  of  Acadie.  In  1654  the  Province 
was  captured  by  a  force  sent  out  by  Cromwell,  but  the  French  interest 
soon  regained  its  former  position. 

The  order  of  the  Baronets  of  Nova  Scotia  was  founded  by  King  Charles 
I.,  in  1625,  and  consisted  of  150  well-born  gentlemen  of  Scotland,  who  re- 
ceived, with  their  titles  and  insignia,  grants  of  18  square  miles  each,  in  the 
wide  domains  of  Acadia.  These  manors  were  to  be  settled  by  the  baronets 
at  their  own  expense,  and  were  expected  in  time  to  yield  handsome 
revenues.  But  little  was  ever  accomplished  by  this  order.  Meantime 
Cardinal  Richelieu  founded  and  became  grand  master  of  a  more  powerful 
French  association  called  the  Company  of  New  France  (1627).    It  con- 


plo^";  iS"un-«cadieyor""phice  of  cranberries";  Kitjioo-acadie,  or  "place  of  cnsIeB,"  and 
others  of  similar  form.  The  Milicete  tribes  pronounced  this  word  "  Ouoddy, '  whence 
Vestumoo-qrioddj/  (Passamoquoddy),  meaning  "place  of  pollocks";  Xoodi-quoddy,  or 
"  place  of  seals,"  etc.  When  a  British  officer  was  descending  tne  Shubenacadte  with  a  Mlc- 
mac  guide,  he  inquired  how  the  name  originated  ;  the  Indian  answered,  "  Because  plenty 
wild  potatoes  —  legieben  —  once  grew  here.^  "  Well,  *  acadie,'  F«ul,  what  doca  that  mean  V* 
"  Meant — where  you  find  'em,"  rtyoined  the  MicniM. 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 


77 


sisted  of  100  mombers,  who  received  Acadia,  Quebec,  Florida,  and  New- 
foundland "  in  simple  bbmage,"  and  had  power  to  erect  duchies,  marqnis- 
ates,  and  seigniories,  subject  to  the  royal  approval.  They  allowed  f  rench 
Catholics  only  to  settle  on  these  lands,  and  were  protected  by  national 
frigates.  This  order  continued  for  40  years,  and  was  instrumental  in 
founding  numerous  villages  along  the  Nova-Scotian  coast. 

In  1690  the  New-Englanders  overran  the  Province  and  seized  the  for- 
tresses, but  it  was  restored  to  France  in  1697.  In  1703  and  1707  unsuc- 
cessful expeditions  were  sent  f  om  Massachusetts  against  the  Acadian 
strongholds,  but  they  were  finally  captured  in  1710;  and  in  1713  Nova 
Scotia  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  The  Prov- 
ince was  kept  in  a  condition  of  disorder  for  the  next  40  years,  by  the  dis- 
affection of  its  French  population  and  the  lawlessness  of  the  Indians,  and 
the  British  fortresses  were  often  menaced  and  attacked.  After  the  founda- 
tion of  Halifax,  in  1749,  a  slow  tide  of  immigration  set  in  and  strengthened 
the  government.  In  1765  the  French  people  in  the  Province  (7,000  in  num- 
ber) were  suddenly  seized  and  transported  to  the  remote  American  colo- 
nies, and  the  French  forts  on  the  Baie-Verte  frontier  were  captured. 

In  1758  the  first  House  of  Assembly  met  at  Halifax,  and  in  1763  the 
French  power  in  America  was  finally  and  totally  crushed.  At  the  close 
of  the  Revolution,  20,000  self-exiled  Americans  settled  in  Nova  Scotia; 
and  in  1784  New  Brunswick  and  Cape  Breton  were  withdrawn  and  made 
into  separate  provinces  (Cape  Breton  was  reunited  to  Nova  Scotia  in  1820). 
During  the  Revolution  and  the  War  of  1812  Halifax  was  the  chief  station 
of  the  British  navy,  and  the  shores  of  the  Province  were  continually 
harassed  by  American  privateers. 

In  1864  a  convention  was  held  at  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.,  to  consider 
measures  for  forming  a  federal  union  of  the  Maritime  Provinces.  During 
the  session  Canadian  delegates  were  admitted,  on  the  request  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Provinces ;  and  a  subsequent  congress  of  all  the  Provinces  was 
held  at  Quebec,  at  which  the  plan  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada  was  elabo- 
rated. It  is  now  thought  that  this  quasi-national  government  does  not  fulfil 
all  the  original  wishes  of  the  seaboard  regions,  and  that  it  may  be  well  to 
unite  (or  reunite)  the  Maritime  Provinces  into  one  powerful  province 
called  Acadia,  by  which  the  expense  of  tliree  local  legislatures  and  cabi- 
nets could  be  saved,  their  homogeneous  commercial  interests  could  be 
favored  by  uniform  laws,  and  the  populous  and  wealthy  Provinces  of  Que- 
bec and  Ontario  could  be  balanced  in  the  Dominion  Parliament. 


•'  There  are  perhaps  no  Provinces  in  the  world  possessing  finer  harbors, 
or  furnishing  in  greater  abundance  all  the  conveniences  of  life.  The  climate 
is  quite  mild  and  very  healthy,  and  no  lands  have  been  found  that  are  not 

of  surpassing  fertility Finally,  nowhere  are  there  to  be  seen  forests 

more  beautiful  or  with  wood  better  fitted  for  buildings  and  masts.    There 


78      Route  17, 


AMHERST. 


are  in  some  places  copper  mines,  and  in  others  of  coal The  fish  most 

commonly  caught  on  the  coast  are  the  cod,  salfhon,  mackerel,  herring, 
sardine,'  shad,  trout,  gotte,  gaparot,  barbel,  sturgeon,  goberge,  —  all  fish 
that  can  be  salted  and  exported.    Seals,  walruses,  and  whales  are  found 

in  great  numbers The  rivers,  too,  are  full  of  fresh-water  fish,  and  the 

banks  teem  with  countless  game."    (Father  Charlevoix,  1765.) 

"Herewith  I  enter  the  lists  as  the  champion  of  Nova  Scotia Were 

I  to  give  a  first-class  certificate  of  its  general  character,  I  would  affirm  that 
it  yields  a  greater  variety  of  products  for  export  than  any  territory  on  the 
globe  of  the  same  superficial  area.  This  is  saying  a  gi-eat  deal.  Let  us 
see  :  she  has  ice,  lumber,  ships,  salt-fish,  salmon  and  lobsters,  coal,  iron, 
gold,  copper,  plaster,  slate,  grindstones,  fat  cattle,  wool,  potatoes,  apples, 
large  game,  and  furs."    (Charles  Hallock,  1873.) 


,  17.   St.  John  to  Amherst  and  Halifax. 

St.  John  to  Amherst,  see  preceding  route. 

Amherst  (Acadia  Hotel;  Amherst  Hotel)  is  a  flourishing  town  midway 
betw^een  St.  John  and  Halifax  (138  M.  from  each).  It  is  the  capital  of 
Cumberland  County,  Nova  Scotia,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  Cumberland  Basin,  one  of  the  great  arms  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  It 
has4,.^00  inhabitants,  and  is  engaged  in  the  lumber  trade;  while  the  im- 
mense area  of  fertile  meadows  about  the  town  furnishes  profitable  employ- 
ment for  a  large  rural  population.  Bi-weekly  stages  run  N.  E.  up  the 
valley  of  the  La  Planche  to  Tidnish  (two  inns),  a  village  of  300  inhabitants 
on  Baie  Verte.  Tri-weekly  stages  run  N.  E.  to  Shinimicas  and  the  large 
farming  district  called  the  Head  of  Amherst,  which  has  over  2,000  in- 
habitants. 

The  present  domain  of  Nova  Scotia  was  ceded  to  Great  Britnin  by  the  Treaty  of 
Utrecht,  in  1713,  but  its  boundaries  were  not  defined,  and  the  French  determined  to 
limit  it  on  the  N.  to  the  Missiguash  River.  To  this  end  Gov.  La  Jonqui^re  Pent  M. 
La  Come,  with  6()0  soldiers,  to  erect  forts  on  the  line  of  the  Missiguash..  The  war- 
rior-priest, the  Abb4  Laloutre  (Vicar-General  of  Acadie),  led  many  Acadians  to  this 
vicinity,  where  the  flourishing  settlement  of  Beaubassin  was  founded.  At  the  same 
time  La  Come  established  a  chain  of  military  posts  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  Boie 
Verte,  the  chief  fort  being  located  on  the  present  site  of  Fort  Cumberland,  and  bear- 
ing the  name  of  Beausejour.  The  governor  of  Nova  Scotia  sent  out  a  British  force 
under  Major  Lawrence,  who  captured  and  destroyed  Beaubassin,  and  erected  Fort 
Lawrence  near  its  site.    The  Acadians  were  industriously  laboring  in  the  peaceful 

gursuits  of  agriculture  about  Beausejour;  a.id  the  King  of  France  had  granted 
3,000  livres  for  the  great  ahoideau  across  the  Aulac  River.  The  British  complained, 
however,  that  the  priests  were  endeavoring  to  array  the  Acadians  against  them, 
and  to  entice  them  away  from  the  Nova-Scotian  shores.  It  was  resolved  that  the 
French  forces  should  be  driven  from  their  position,  and  a  powerful  expedition  was 
fitted  out  at  Boston.  Three  frigates  and  a  number  of  transports  conveying  the  New- 
England  levies  sailed  up  the  Bay  of  Fundy  in  May,  1756,  and  debarked  a  strong 


FORT  CUMBERLAND. 


Rmde  17,      79 


B  fish  most 
1,  herring, 
—  all  fish 
are  found 
ih,  and  the 
66.) 

•  .  .  Were 
iffirm  that 
3ry  on  the 
!•  Let  us 
3oal,  iron, 
!9,  apples, 


midway 
apital  of 
the  head 
ndy.  It 
the  im- 
ernploy- 
.  up  the 
abitants 
he  large 
,000  in- 


rcaty  of 
mined  to 
Pent  M. 
The  war- 
>8  to  tliis 
the  snnio 
f  to  Bnie 
nd  bear- 
Hh  force 
ted  Fort 
peaceful 
granted 
plained, 
t  them, 
that  the 
ion  was 
he  New- 
i^trong 


land  force  at  Vort  Lawrence.  Meantime  1,200  - 1,500  Acadians  had  been  gathered 
about  Beausejour,  by  the  influence  of  the  Abb6  Laloutre,  and  a  nharp  skirmish  was 
fought  on  L'Isle  do  la  Valli^re.  On  the  4th  of  June  the  Anglo-American  forces  left 
their  camps  on  the  glacis  of  Fort  Lawrence,  routed  the  Acadians  at  the  fords  of  the 
Missiguash,  and  advanced  by  parallels  and  siege-lines  against  the  hostile  works. 
When  the  British  batteries  reached  Butte-a-Charles  tho  fort  was  vigorously  shelled, 
and  with  such  diSfistrous  effect  that  it  capitulated  on  June  16th,  the  garrison  march* 
ing  out  with  arms,  baggage,  and  banners.  The  French  troops  were  paroled  and 
sent  to  Louisbourg,  and  tho  Acadians  were  suffered  to  remain.  Laloutre,  escaping 
to  Quebec,  there  received  an  ecclesiastical  censure,  and  was  afterwards  remanded  to 
France. 

In  November,  1776,  Col.  Eddy  led  a  force  of  Massachusetts  troops,  men  of  Mau- 
gerville,  Acadians,  and  Indians,  against  Fort  Cumberland.  lie  first  cut  out  a  store- 
vessel  from  under  the  guns  of  the  fort,  and  captured  several  detachments  of  tho  gar- 
rison (the  Royal  Fencibles).  The  commandant  refused  to  surrender,  and  repulsed 
the  Americans  in  a  night-attack,  by  means  of  a  furious  cannonade.  Eddy  then 
blockaded  the  fort  for  several  days,  but  was  finally  driven  off  by  tho  arrival  of  a 
man-of-war  from  Halifax,  bringing  a  reinforcement  of  400  men.  The  Massachusetts 
camp  was  broken  up  by  a  sortie,  and  all  its  stores  wero  destroyed.  Tho  Americans 
fled  to  the  forest,  and  fell  back  on  tho  St.  John  River.  A  large  proportion  of  thd 
men  of  Cumberland  County  went  to  Maine  after  this  campaign,  despairing  of  the 
success  of  Republicanism  in  the  Maritimo  Provinces.  Among  them  were  a  consid- 
erable number  of  Acadians. 

The  ruins  of  Fort  Cumberland  are  a  few  miles  N.  "W.  of  Amherst,  beyond  the 
Aulac  River,  and  on  a  high  biuff  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Point  do  Bute  range  of  hills. 
It  was  kept  in  repair  by  the  Imperial  Government  for  many  years  after  its  capture, 
and  still  presents  an  appearance  of  strength  and  solidity,  though  it  has  been  long 
deserted.  The  remains  of  the  besiegers'  parallels  aro  also  vitiblo  near  tho  works. 
On  a  bold  bluff  within  cannon-shot,  on  tlie  farther  bank  of  tho  Missiguash  River, 
are  the  scanty  remains  of  the  British  Fort  Lawrence.  Nimierous  relics  of  tho  old 
Acs  lians  may  still  be  traced  in  this  vicinity.  5  M.  above  the  fort,  on  tho  Bale  Verto 
road,  is  Bloody  Bridge,  where  a  British  foraging  party  under  Col.  Dixon  was  sur- 
prised and  massacred  by  the  Indians  ( under  French  officers). 

The  *  view  from  the  bastions  of  Fort  Cumberland  is  famous  for  its  extent  and 
beauty.  It  includes  Sackvillo  and  its  colleges  on  the  N.  W.,  Atoherst  and  tho 
Nova-Scotian  shores  on  the  S.  E.,  and  tho  bluff  and  humlct  of  Fort  Lawrence.  The 
wide  and  blooming  expanse  of  the  Tantramar  and  Missiguash  Marshes  is  over- 
looked,—  the  view  including  over  50,000  acres  of  rich  marine  intervale,  —  and  on 
the  S.  the  eye  travels  for  many  leagues  down  the  blue  sheet  of  the  Bfiy  of  Fundy 
(Cumberland  Basin). 

The  great  Tantramar  Marsh  is  3.  of  Sackville,  and  is  9  M.  long  by  4  M.  wide, 
being  also  traversed  by  the  Taniramar  and  Aulac  Rivers.  It  is  composed  of  fine 
silicious  matter  deposited  as  marine  alluvium,  and  is  called  "red  marsh,"  in  dis- 
tinction from  the  "  blue  marsh  "  of  the  uplands.  The  low  shores  around  tho  head 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  for  a  distance  of  20  M.  have  been,  reclaimed  by  the  erection  of 
dikes,  with  aboideaux  at  the  moutlis  of  tho  rivers  to  exclude  the  flow  of  the  tides. 
The  land  thus  gained  is  very  rich,  and  produces  fine  crops  of  English  hay,  averag- 
ing from  \)i  to  2  tons  to  the  acre.  Tho  land  seems  inexhaustible,  having  been  tul- 
tivated  now  for  nearly  a  century  without  rotation  or  fertilization. 

The  Chignecto  Peninsula. 

Mlnudie  is  8  M.  S.  W.  of  Amherst,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  ferry  across 
the  estuaries  of  the  Maccan  and  Ilebert  Rivers.  It  hits  600  inhabitants,  and  is  near 
the  rich  meadows  called  tho  Elysian  Fields.  In  tho  vicinity  are  profitable  quarries 
of  grindstones .  and  thero  are  shad-fisheries  to  the  S.  AV.  6-8  M.  S.  are  the  Jogglns 
Mines,  pertaining  to  the  General  Mining  Association  of  London  ;  and  the  Victoria 
Mines,  on  the  river  Ilebert.  Coal  has  been  obtained  thence  for  25  years.  This  dis- 
trict is  reached  by  stages  from  Maccan  station.  About  the  year  1730  tho  coal-mines 
at  Chignecto  were  leased  to  a  Boston  company,  which  was  to  pay  a  quit-rent  of  one 
penny  an  acre  (on  4,000  acres),  and  a  royalty  of  18  pence  per  chaldron  on  the  coal 
raised.  But  this  enterprise  was  broken  up  in  1732.  when  the  warehouses  and  ma- 
chinery were  destroyed  by  the  Indians  (probably  incited,  by  the  French  at  Louis- 
bourg). 


80      Mmite  J7. 


COBEQUID  MTS. 


The  Joffslns  Shove  extends  to  the  8.  W.  along  the  Chigneeto  Channel,  and  is 
remarkable  for  its  geological  pecoliarities,  which  hare  been  visited  and  stndted  by 


European  savans.  The  local  explanation  of  the  name  is  that  the  cliCb  here  '^  Jog  in ' 
and  out  in  an  unexampled  manner.  The  height  of  the  clifiis  is  from  180  to  400  ft. ;  and 
the  width  of  the  Chigneeto  Basin  is  from  6to8M.  85-40M.  from  Amherst  is  Apple 
River,  a  sequestered  hamlet  on  the  estuary  of  the  Apple  BiTer,  amidst  fine  marine 
scenery.  Apple  Head  is  just  W.  of  this  place,  and  is  418  ft.  high,  overlooking  the 
Chigneeto  Channel  and  the  New-Brunswick  shores.  There  is  a  fixed  white  light  on 
its  outer  point.  To  the  £.,  Apple  River  traverses  the  Caribou  Plains,  and  on  its 
upper  waters  affords  the  best  of  trout-fishing,  with  an  abundance  of  salmon  between 
February  and  July.  15-20  M.  S.  W.  of  Apple  River,  by  a  road  which  crosses  the 
Cobequid  Mts.  £.  of  Cape  Chigneeto,  is  Advocate  Harbor  (see  Route  21)^ 

"The  road  fh)m  Amherst  to  Parrsboro'  is  tedious  and  uninteresting.  In  places 
it  is  made  so  straight  that  you  can  see  ser  ;ral  miles  of  it  before  you,  which  produces 
an  appearance  of  interminable  length,  while  the  stunted  growth  of  the  spruce  and 
birch  trees  bespeaks  a  cold,  thin  soil,  and  invests  the  scene  with  a  melancholy  and 
sterile  aspect."  (JcnoE  Haubcrton.)  This  road  is  86  M.  long,  ascending  the  val- 
ley of  the  Maccan  River,  and  passing  the  hamlet  of  Cannan,  near  the  Cobequid  Mts. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  from  Amherst  to  Maccan  (stages  to  Minudie 
and  Joggins),  in  the  great  coal-field  of  Cumberland  County.  Daily  stages  run 
from  Athol  station  to  Parrsboro\  From  Athol  the  line  passes  to  Birring  Hill, 
a  coal-mining  district,  whence  a  railway  has  been  constructed  to  Parrs- 
boro'  (see  Route  21).  11  M.  beyond  is  the  station  at  River  Philip  (small 
hotel),  a  pleasant  stream  in  which  good  fishing  is  found.  The  salmon  are 
especially  abundant  during  the  springtime.  Oxford  station  (two  inns)  has 
two  small  woollen  factories,  and  is  14  M.  S.  W.  of  Pugwash,  on  the 
Northumberland  Strait.    A  railroad  runs  hence  to  the  North  Shore. 

The  train  now  passes  through  extensive  forests,  in  which  many  sugar- 
maples  are  seen,  and  begins  the  ascent  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.,  with  the 
Wallace  Valley  below  on  the  1.  The  Cobequid  range  runs  almost  due  E. 
and  W.  from  Truro,  and  is  100  M.  long,  with  an  average  breadth  of  10-12 
M.  It  consists  of  a  succession  of  rounded  hills,  800- 1,000  feet  high,  cov- 
ered with  tall  and  luxuriant  forests  of  beech  and  suga'^-maple.  From 
Thomson,  Greenville,  and  Wentworth  stations  stages  run  to  Wallace  and 
Pugwash  (see  page  81),  also  to  Westchester.  The  railway  traverses  the 
hill-country  by  the  Folly  Pass,  and  has  its  heaviest  grades  between  Folly 
Lake  and  Londonderry;  where  are  also  2-3  M.  of  snow-sheds,  to  protect 
the  deep  cuttings  from  the  drifting  in  of  snow  from  the  hills.  Fine  views 
of  the  Wallace  Valley  are  afforded  from  the  open  levels  of  the  line.  From 
Londonderry  a  railway  runs  to  Acadia  Mines,  a  town  of  3,000  inhabitants, 
with  4  churches.  Here  are  the  blast-furnaces  and  rolling-mill  of  the  Can- 
ada Steel  Co.  The  ores  are  magnetic,  specular,  and  hematite,  and  occur  in 
a  wedge-shaped  vein  7  M.  long  and  120  ft.  thick.  The  iron  is  of  fine 
quality,  but  is  difficult  to  work. 

The  train  descends  from  the  Pass  along  the  line  of  the  Folly  River,  which 
it  crosses  on  a  bridge  200  feet  above  the  water.  Beyond  the  farming  set- 
tlement of  Dehert  (stages  to  Economy  and  Five  Islands)  the  descent  is  con- 
tinued, and  occasional  views  of  the  Cobequid  Bay  are  given  as  the  train 
passes  across  Onslow  to  Truro.  The  landscape  now  becomes  more  pleas- 
ing and  thickly  settled. 


TRURO. 


Route  27.       81 


pleas- 


Tmio  (Parker  Eouse  ;  Prince  of  Wales  Hotel ;  Victoria)  is  a  wealthy 
and  prosperous  town  of  over  4,000  inhabitants,  and  occupies  a  pleasant 
situation  2  M.  from  the  head  of  Cobequid  Bay  (an  arm  of  the  Basin  of 
Minas).  The  level  site  of  the  town  is  nearly  surrounded  by  an  amphi- 
theatre of  gracefully  rounded  hills,  and  on  the  W.  are  the  old  diked 
meadows  of  the  Acadian  era.  Truro  is  the  capital  of  Colchester  County 
and  the  seat  of  the  Provincial  Normal  School.  Fishing  and  shipbuilding 
are  carried  on  here,  and  there  are  large  and  growing  manufactures,  iur 
eluding  boots  and  shoes,  woollens,  and  iron- wares.  The  neighboring 
county  has  valuable  farming-lands,  and  contains  several  iron-mines. 

Truro  was  settled  at  an  early  date  by  the  Acadian  French,  and  after  their  expul- 
sion from  Nova  Scotia  was  occupied  by  Scotch-Irish  from  New  Hampshire.  In 
1761  a  large  number  of  disbanded  Irish  troops  settled  here,  and  engaged  in  the 
peaceful  pursuits  of  agriculture. 

A  road  runs  W.  fh>m  Truro  between  the  Cobequid  Mts.  and  the  Basin  of  Minaa, 
passing  Masstown  (10  M.) ;  Folly  Village  (U  M.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Folly  River : 
Great  Village  (18  M.),  a  place  of  600  inhabitants ;  Highland  Village  (21  M.)  ;  Port 
au  Pique  (23  M.) ;  Bass  River  (27  M.) ;  Upper  Economy  (28  M.) ;  and  Five  Islands 
(45  M.)-    (See  Route  22.)    The  stages  run  from  Debert  station. 

Stages  also  run  S.  W.  to  Old  Bams,  on  the  S.  shore  of  Cobequid  Bay,  and  S.  E.  16 
M.  to  Middle  Stewiacke,  on  the  Stewiacke  River. 

Truro  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  Pictou  Branch  of  the  Intercolonial  Bail- 
yny  (see  Route  31). 

The  North  Shore  of  Nova  Scotia. 

Stages  run  from  various  stations  to  the  North  Shore,  —  ftom  Truro  to  Tatama* 
gouche,  etc. ;  from  Wentworth  for  Wallace,  Pugwash,  Tatamagouche,  and  New 
Annan ;  from  Greenville  to  Wallace  and  Wallace  Bridge ;  from  Thomson  to  Pug- 
wash, daily.  The  new  railway  from  Oxford  makes  the  North-Shore  ports  more 
accessible  than  by  the  old  stage-routes. 

In  passing  from  Truro  to  Tatamagouche  the  road  crosses  the  Cobequid 
Mts.  and  descends  through  a  thinly  settled  region  to  the  N.  Tatamagouche 
(two  inns)  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  large  harbor  which  opens  on  the 
Northumberland  Strait,  and  has  about  1,600  inhabitants.  Some  ship- 
building is  done  here,  and  there  are  freestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity. 
6  M.  to  the  E.  is  the  large  village  of  Brule  Harbor,  and  6  M.  farther  E., 
also  on  the  Tatamagouche  Bay,  and  at  thu  mouth  of  the  River  John,  is 
the  shipbuilding  settlement  of  Eiver  John,  which  was  founded  by  Swiss 
Protestants  in  1763.  It  is  20  M.  from  this  point  to  Pictou,  and  the  inter- 
vening coast  is  occupied  by  colonists  from  the  Hebrides. 

Blair's  stage  runs  W.  from  Tatamagouche  to  Wallace  (two  inns),  a  town 
of  2,600  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  deep  waters  of  Wallace  Harbor  (for- 
merly called  Remsheg).  Plaster,  lime,  and  freestone  are  found  here  in 
large  quantities,  and  the  latter  is  being  quarried  by  several  companies. 
T  3  Provincial  Building  at  Halifax  was  made  of  Wallace  stone.  To  the 
N.  E.,  beyond  the  lighthouse  on  Mullin  Point,  is  the  marine  hamlet  of  Fox 
Harbor,  whos  ~  9riginal  settlers  came  from  the  Hebrides.  Pugwash  (small 
inn)  is. 10  M.  beyond  Wallace,  and  is  a  flourishing  port  with  about  8,800 
4»  P 


82      Moute  m 


GOLD  MINES. 


i 


inhabitants.  Tlie  liarbor,  though  difficult  of  access,  is  deep  and  well  shel- 
tered, and  has  several  ship-yards  on  its  shores.  The  chief  exports  of  Pug- 
wash  are  deals  and  lumber,  freestone,  lime,  and  plaster. 


The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  from  Truro  to  Brcokjieldj  whence  hay  and 
lumber  are  exported,  and  then  to  Stewiacke,  which  is  3  M.  from  the  pretty 
farming  village  of  the  same  name,  on  the  Stewiaclce  River.  Tiie  next  sta- 
tion is  Shubenacadie  (International  Hotel),  a  busy  little  manufacturing 
village  on  the  river  of  the  same  name. 

Daily  stages  descend  the  valley  of  the  Shubenacadie  for  18  M.  to  the  N.  to  the 
town  of  Maitland  (two  inns),  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  (see  Route  22).  Stages  also 
run  S.  £.  (Tuesday  and  Thursday)  to  Gay's  River  (7  M.),  Oay's  River  Road  (14  M  ), 
Middle  Musquodoboit  (21  M.),  Upper  Musquodoboit  (25  M.))  Melrose,  Ouysborough, 
and  Port  Mulgrave,  on  the  Strait  of  Canso.  Gold  was  discovered  near  Gay's  River 
in  1862,  in  the  cenglomeratu  rock  of  the  great  ridge  called  the  Boar's  Back,  which 
extends  for  60  M.  through  the  inland  towns.  It  nearly  resembles  the  alluvial  de- 
posits found  In  the  placer-diggings  of  California,  and  the  stream-washings  have 
yielded  as  high  as  an  ounce  per  man  daily.  Scientific  mining  was  begun  in  1868, 
but  has  given  only  light  returns.  Middle  Musquodoboit  is  a  &rming-town  with 
about  1,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  S.  of  the  Boar's  Back  ridge,  42  M.  from 
Hali&z.  Upper  Musquodoboit  is  about  the  same  size,  and  beyond  that  point  the 
stages  travienle  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  district  for  several  leagues,  to  Melrose. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  S.  W.  to  Elmsdale,  a  village  near  the  Shuben- 
acadie River,  engaged  in  making  leather  and  carriages.  Enfield  is  the 
seat  of  a  large  pottery.  7  M.  N.  W.  are  the  Renfrew  GoM-MineSy  where 
gold-bearing  quartz  was  discovered  in  11861.  Much  money  and  labor  were 
at  first  wasted  by  inexperienced  miners,  but  of  late  years  the  lodes  have 
been  worlced  systematically,  and  are  considered  among  the  most  valuable 
in  Nova  Scotia.  The  average  yield  is  16  pennyweights  of  gold  to  a  ton  of 
quartz,  and  in  1869  these  mines  yielded  3,097  ounces  of  the  precious  metal, 
valued  at  $  61,490.  The  Oldham  Mines  are  8^  M.  S.  of  Enfield,  and  are 
in  a  deep  narrow  valley,  along  whose  bottom  shafts  have  been  sunle  to 
reach  the  auriferous  quartz.  Between  1861  and  1869,  9,254  ounces  of  gold 
were  sent  from  the  Oldham  diggings,  and  it  is  thought  that  yet  richer 
lodes  may  be  found  at  a  greater  depth. 

Soon  after  leaving  Enfield  the  train  passes  along  the  S.  E.  shore  of  Grand 
Lake,  which  is  8  M.  long  by  1-2  M.  wide.  It  crosses  the  outlet  stream, 
runs  around  Long  Lake,  and  intersects  the  Windsor  Branch  Railway  at 
Windsor  Junction.  Station,  Eocky  Lake^  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name, 
where  large  quantities  of  ice  are  cut  by  the  Nova-Scotia  Ice  Company,  for 
exportation  to  the  United  States.  3  M.  N.  E.  of  this  station  are  the  Waver- 
ley  Gold-Mines,  where  the  gold  is  found  in  barrel-quartz,  so  named  because 
it  appears  in  cylindrical  masses  like  barrels  laid  side  by  side,  or  like  a 
corduroy-road.  At  its  first  discovery  all  the  floating  population  of  Halifax 
flocked  out  here,  but  they  failed  to  better  their  condition,  and  the  total 
yield  between  1861  and  1869  was  only  about  1,600  ounces.  Waverley  vil- 
lage is  picturesquely  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  between  two  lakes,  and 
has  about  600  inhabitants. 


ANNAPOLIS  ROUTE. 


BauU  18,      83 


After  crossing  Bocky  Lake  the  train  soon  reaches  the  shores  of  ^''^ 
beautiful  Bedford  Baan^  and  follows  their  graceful  curves  for  sevc.  A 
miles.  On  the  1.  are  fine  views  of  the  villas  and  hills  beyond  the  blue 
water. 

Halifax,  see  page  93. 


18.   St  John  to  Hali&x,  by  the  Annapolis  Valley. 

This  is  the  pleasantest  route,  during  calm  weather,  between  the  chief  cities  of  the 
Maritime  Provinces.  After  a  passage  of  about  4  hours  in  the  steamer,  across  the  Bay 
of  Fundy,  the  pretty  scenery  of  the  Annapolis  Basin  is  traversed,  and  at  Annapolis 
the  passenger  takes  the  train  of  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis  Railway,  which  runs 
through  to  Halifax.  The  line  traverses  a  comparatively  rich  and  picturesque  coun- 
try, abounding  in  historic  and  poetic  associations  of  the  deepest  interest. 

The  distance  between  St.  John  and  Halifax  by  this  route  is  86  M.  less  than  by  the 
Intercolonial  Kail  way ;  but  the  time  on  both  routes  is  about  the  same  on  eMscount 
of  the  delay  in  crossing  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  Annapolis-Halifox  line  is  only  prac« 
ticable  4  times  a  week.  The  steamer  leaves  St.  John  at  8  A.  M.,  on  Monday,  Wednes- 
day, Friday,  and  Saturday,  connecting  with  the  exprpcs  trains  which  leave  Annapolis 
at  2  P.  M  and  arrive  at  Hali&x  at  about  8  p.  m.  Express  wains  leave  Hali&x  at  8.15  A.  u. 
on  Tuesday,  Thursday,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  connecting  with  the  steamer  which 
leaves  Annapolis  at  2.35  P.  m.  and  arrives  at  St.  John  at  8  P.  M. 

Fares.  — St.  John  to  Halifax,  1st  class,  $5;  2d  class,  $3.50;  to  Digby,  $160; 
to  Annapolis  $  2.  Passengers  for  Halifax  dine  on  the  steamer  and  take  tea  at  Kent- 
Tille  (10  minutes) ;  those  for  St.  John  dine  at  Kentville  (18  minutes)  and  take  tea 
on  the  boat.  There  are  two  through  trains  each  way  daily  between  Halifax  and 
Annapolis.  Special  rates  are  made  for  excursions  (limited  time)  by  the  agents  of 
this  route,  Small  &  Hathaway,  39  Dock  St.,  St  John. 

Distances.  — St.  John  to  Digby,  43  M.;  Annapolis,  61 ;  Round  Hill,  68 ;  Bridge- 
town, 75;  Paradise,  80;  Lawrencetown,  83;  Middleton,  89;  Wilmot,  92;  Kingston, 
96;  Morden  Road,  lOl ;  Aylesford,  103 ;  Berwick,  108;  Waterville,  111 ;  Cambridge, 
113;  Coldbrook,  115;  Kentville,  120;  Port  Williams,  125;  Wolfville,  127;  Grand 
Pr6, 130 ;  Horton  Landing,  131 ;  Avonport,  133 ;  Hantsport,  138 ;  Mount  Denson, 
140;  Falmouth,  143;  WindHor,  145;  Three-Mile  Plains,  148 ;  Newport,  151 ;  Ellers- 
house,  ^54;  Stillwater,  157 ;  Mount  Uniacke,  164 ;  Beaver  Bank,  l74 ;  Windsor  Junc- 
tion, 17V;  Rocky  Lake,  179 ;  Bedford,  182;  Four-Mile  House,  188 ;  Halifax,  190. 

The  fteamer  Empress  leaves  her  wharf  at  Seed's  Point,  St.  John,  and 
soon  passes  the  heights  and  spires  of  Carleton  on  the  r.  and  the  lighthouse 
on  Partridge  Island  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  Mispeck  Point  is  seen.  Cape 
Spencer  is  then  opened  to  the  E.,  on  the  New  Brunswick  coast,  and  the 
steamer  sweeps  out  into  the  open  bay.  In  ordinary  summer  weather  the 
bay  is  quiet,  except  for  a  light  tidal  swell,  and  will  not  affect  the  traveller. 

Soon  after  pafsing  Partridge  Island,  the  dark  ridge  of  the  North  Mt.  is 
seen  in  advance,  cleft  by  the  gap  called  the  *Digfby  Gut,  which,  in  the 
earlier  days,  was  known  as  St.  George's  Channel.  The  course  is  laid 
straight  for  this  pass,  and  the  steamer  runs  in  by  Prim  Point,  with  its  fog- 
whistle  and  fixed  light  (visible  13  M.),  and  enters  the  tide-swept  defile, 
with  bold  and  mountainous  bluffs  rising  on  either  side.  The  shores  on 
the  1.  are  610  feet  high,  and  on  the  r.  400-560  ft.,  between  which  the  tide 
ruslies  with  a  velocity  of  5  knots  an  hour,  making  broad  and  powerful 
swirls  and  eddies  over  12  -  25  fathoms  of  water.  After  running  for  about 
2  M.  through  this  passage,  the  steamer  enters  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and 
runs  S.  by  £.  3  M.  to  Digby. 


84       Route  18, 


ANNAPOLIS  BASIN. 


"The  white  houses  of  Digby,  seattend  oTer  the  downs  like  a  flook  of  washed 
sheep,  bad  a  somewhat  chilly  aspect,  it  la  true,  and  made  us  long  for  the  sun  on 
them.  But  as  1  think  of  it  now,  I  prefer  to  have  the  town  and  the  pretty  hillsides 
that  stand  about  the  basin  in  the  light  we  saw  tbem ;  and  especially  do  I  like  to 
recall  the  high  wooden  pier  at  Digby,  deserted  by  the  tide  and  so  blown  by  the  wind 
that  the  puHsengers  who  came  out  on  it,  with  their  tossing  drapery,  brought  to  mind 
the  windy  Dutch  harbors  that  Backhiiysen  painted."    (Warnlr's  Bculdeck.) 

Bigby  {Daley's  Hotel)  is  a  maritime  village  of  about  1,800  inhabitants, 
with  6  churches,  2  weekly  papers,  and  30  shops,  situated  on  the  S.  W. 
shore  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  the  fish- 
eries of  haddock,  mackerel,  and  herring.  The  Digby  herring  are  famous  for 
their  delicacj',  and  are  known  in  the  Provinces  as  "Digby  chickens." 
Porpoises,  also,  are  caught  in  the  swift  currents  of  the  Digby  Gut.  Quite 
recently  Digby  has  become  well  known  as  a  summer-resort.  The  fogs 
which  hang  like  a  pall  over  the  Bay  of  Fundy  are  not  encountered  here-, 
and  the  lovely  scenery  hereabouts,  and  boating,  bathing,  and  fishing  afford 
sufficient  amusement.  The  comfortable  Myrtle  House,  near  the  water, 
amid  three  acres  of  fruit-orchards,  is  crowded  all  summer  by  Americans 
and  Canadians.  There  is  a  steamship  line  from  Boston  to  Digby  direct 
A  French  fort' stood  here  in  the  early  days;  and  in  1783  the  township  was 
granted  to  the  ex- American  Loyalists.  Stages  run  to  Annapolis,  and  a 
railroad  to  Yarmouth. 

"  That  portion  of  Acadia  at  which  the  voyagers  had  now  arrived  is  di^itingnished 
by  the  beauty  of  its  scenery.  The  coast  along  which  they  had  previously  fiaUed  is 
comparatively  rugjred.  But  on  entering  the  Basin  the  scene  is  changed.  ui.M.y  of  the 
peculiar  elements  which  lend  a  charm  to  the  Acadian  landscape  being  foucd  in  har- 
monious combination.  Towards  the  east,  islands  repose  on  the  bosom  of  the  deep, 
their  forms  being  vividly  mirrored  on  its  placid  surface,  and  from  which  canoes  may 
be  seen  darting  towards  the  mainland,  with  their  paddles  fltfally  flashing  in  the 
sunlight.  In  the  diBtancp  are  graceful,  undulating  hills,  thickly  c)ad,  from  base  to 
summit,  with  birch,  maple,  hemlock,  and  spruce  woods,  constituting  an  admirable 
background  to  the  whole  scene."    {C AMPBi^hh'' a  History  of  N^ova  Scotia.) 

The  noble  *  Annapolis  Basin  gradually  decreases  from  a  width  of  nearly 
b  M.  to  1  M.,  and  is  hemmed  in  between  the  converging  ridges  of  the 
North  Mt.  and  the  South  Mt.  The  former  range  has  a  height  of  6  -  700  ft., 
and  is  bold  and  mountainous  in  its  outlines.  The  South  Mt.  is  from  300 
to  500  ft.  high,  and  its  lines  of  ascent  are  more  gradual.  The  North  Mt. 
was  once  insulated,  and  the  tides  flowed  through  the  whole  valley,  until  a 
shoal  at  the  confluence  of  the  Blomidon  and  Digby  currents  became  a  bar, 
and  this  in  time  became  drj'^  land  and  a  water-shed. 

Between  the  head  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  slopes  of  the  Annapolis  Basin 
are  the  rarely  visited  and  sequestered  hill-ranges  called  the  Blue  Moun- 
tahis.  "  The  Indians  are  said  to  have  formerly  resorted  periodically  to 
groves  among  these  wilds,  which  they  considered  as  consecrated  places, 
in  order  to  ofier  sacrifices  to  their  gods." 

"  We  wera  sailing  along  the  graeefhlly  moulded  and  tree-covered  hills  of  the  An- 
napolis Basin,  and  up  the  mildly  pictureFque  river  of  that  name,  and  we  were  about 
to  enter  what  the  provinciuls  all  enthusiastically  call  the  Garden  of  Nova  Scotia. 
....  It  1.4,  —  this  valley  of  Annapolis, — in  the  belief  of  provincials,  the  most  beau- 
tiiUl  and  blooming  place  in  the  world,  with  a  soil  and  climate  kind  to  the  husband- 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


JtouUlS       85 


,  a  land  of  lUr  meadowa, onhaidB, and  TlnM. . .  .'.It wu  not  untU  w«  had 
traTelled  over  the  rest  of  the  country  that  we  saw  the  appropriateneu  of  the 
designation.  The  explanation  is,  that  not  so  much  is  required  of  a  garden  here  af 
In  some  other  parts  of  the  world." 

Soon  after  leaving  Digby,  Bear  Island  is  seen  in-shore  on  the  r.,  in  front 
of  the  little  port  of  Bear  River  (inn),  which  has  a  foundry,  tanneries,  and 
i»sw-mills.  Iron  and  gold  are  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  lumber  and  cord- 
wood  are  exported  hence  to  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  A  few 
miles  beyond,  and  also  on  the  S.  shore,  is  the  hamlet  of  Clementsport  (two 
inns),  where  large  iron- works  were  formerly  established,  in  connection 
with  the  ore-beds  to  the  S.  Roads  lead  thence  to  the  S.  W.  in  10- 12  M. 
to  the  romantic  districts  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  the  upper  Liverpool  Lakes 
(see  Route  27),  at  whose  entrance  is  the  rural  village  of  ClemetUsvcUe. 

8-10  M.  bc3'^ond  Digby  the  steamer  passes  Goat  Island,  of  which 

Lescarbot  writes,  in  Lea  Muaea  de  la  Nouvelle  France  (1609) : 

**  Adieu  mon  doux  plaisir  fonteines  et  rulsseaux, 
Qui  Ics  vaux  et  les  inonts  arrousez  de  vos  eauz. 
Fourra 
Richel 


fourrov-je  t'uublier,  belle  ile  for^tiere 

I  nonneur  de  ce  Ueu  et  de  cette  rivi£re  ?** 


In  1707  the  British  frigate  Annibal  and  two  brigautines  were  sailing  up  the  Basin  to 
attack  Annapoli.<),  when  they  met  such  a  sharp  volley  from  the  lie  aux  Ghivres  that 
they  were  forced  to  retire  in  confusion.  The  French  name  of  the  island  was  AnglK 
cized  by  translation.  On  the  point  near  this  island  was  the  first  settlement  of  the 
French  in  Nova  Scotia.  A  fort  was  erected  here  by  the  Scottish  pioneers,  and  was 
restored  to  Frarce  by  the  Treaty  of  St.  Germain,  after  which  it  was  garrisoned  by 
French  troops.  In  1827  a  stone  block  was  found  on  the  point,  inscribed  with  a 
square  apd  compass  and  the  date  "  1606."  In  May,  1782,  there  was  a  naval  combat 
off  Goat  Island,  in  which  an  American  war-brig  of  8  guns  wa«  captured  by  H.  M.  8. 
Buckram. 

Above  the  island  the  Basin  is  about  1  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  farm- 
streets.  To  the  N.  £.,  across  a  low  alluvial  point,  are  seen  the  spires  and 
ramparts  of  Annapolis  Royal,  where  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf, 
after  passing  under  the  massive  walls  of  the  old  fortress.  There  are  sev- 
eral small  inns  here,  the  Dominion,  Commercial,  American,  Foster,  Per- 
kins, Hillsdale,  Granville,  etc.,  and  Mrs.  Grassie's  and  Mrs.  Crozier's 
summer  boarding-houses.  Their  rates  are  $5-6  a  week,  and  board  can  be 
obtained  on  adjacent  farms  for  $3-5  a  week.  There  are  weekly  steamers 
between  Boston  and  Annapolis.  Stages  run  from  Annapolis  to  Clements- 
port,  8 J  M. ;  Victoria  Bridge,  13^;  Digby,  20 J;  railway  thence  to  Yar- 
mouth, 87^.    Stages  also  run  S.  E.  78  M.  to  Liverpool  (see  Route  27). 

Annapolis  Boyal,  the  capital  of  Annapolis  County,  is  a  maritime  and 
agricultural  village,  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Annapolis  Basin,  and  con- 
tains 1,200  inhabitants.  It  is  frequented  by  summer  visitors  on  account 
of  its  pleasant  environs  and  tempered  sea-air,  and  the  opportunities  for  salt- 
water fishing  in  the  Basin,  and  trouting  among  the  hills  to  the  S.  The 
chief  object  of  interest  to  the  passing  traveller  is  the  *  old  fortress  which 
fronts  the  Basin  and  covers  28  acres  with  its  ramparts  and  outworks.  It 
is  entered  by  the  way  of  the  fields  opposite  Perkins's  Hotel.  The  works 
are  disarmed,  and  have  remained  unoccupied  for  many  years.    One  of  the 


86      Jti>ute  18, 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


last  oocnpations  was  that  of  the  Rifle  Brigade,  in  1850;  bat  the  post  was 
abandoned  soon  after,  on  account  of  the  numerous  and  successful  deser- 
tions which  thinned  tlie  ranks  of  the  garrison.  But  when  Canada  passed 
into  a  state  of  semi-independence  in  1867,  this  fortress  was  one  of  the  few 
domains  reserved  to  the  British  Crown.  The  inner  fort  is  entered  by  an 
ancient  archway  which  fronts  towards  the  Basin,  giving  passage  to  the 
parade-ground,  on  which  are  the  quaint  old  English  barraclcs,  with  steep 
Toofs  and  great  chimneys.  In  the  S.  E.  bastion  is  the  magazine,  with  a 
vaulted  roof  of  masonry,  near  which  are  the  foundations  of  the  French 
barracks.  From  the  parapet  on  this  side  are  overlooked  the  landward  out- 
works and  the  lines  of  the  old  Hessian  and  Waldecker  settlements  towards 
Clementsport.  On  the  hillside  beyond  the  marsh  is  seen  an  ancient  house 
of  the  era  of  the  French  occupation,  the  only  one  now  standing  in  the  val- 
ley. In  the  bastion  towards  the  river  is  a  vaulted  room,  whence  a  passage 
leads  down  to  the  French  garrison-wharf;  but  the  arched  way  has  fallen 
in,  and  the  wharf  is  now  but  a  shapeless  pile  of  stones.  The  *  view  from 
this  angle  of  the  works  is  very  beautiful,  including  the  villages  of  Annapo- 
lis Royal  and  Granville,  the  sombre  heights  of  the  North  and  South  Mts., 
and  the  Basin  W  many  miles,  with  Goat  Island  in  the  distance. 

The  road  which  leads  by  the  fortress  passes  the  old  garrison  cemetery, 
St.  Luke's  Church,  the  court-house  and  county  academy,  and  many 
quaint  and  antiquated  mansions.  A  ferry  crosses  to  Granville,  a  little 
shipbuilding  village,  with  700  inhabitants.  A  road  leads  hence  across  the 
North  Mt.  in  4-5  M.,  to  Hillsbum  and  Leitchjield. 

"  Annapolis  Royal  is  a  picturesque  little  town,  almost  surrounded  by  water,  at 
the  head  of  tlie  Annapolis  Basin.  On  both  sides  of  the  Basin  rise  mountains  whose 
iMtckground  of  vegetation  lends  a  peculiar  charm  to  the  landscape.  Fruit  of 
almost  every  kind  common  to  this  continent  may  be  found  here  in  its  season.  East- 
ward you  may  proceed  by  railway  to  the  scene  of  Longfellow's  great  poem  of  '  Evange- 
line '  through  a  perpetual  scene  of  orchards,  dike  lands,  and  villages,  skirted  on 
both  sides  by  dreamy  mountains,  till  you  reach  the  grand  expanse  of  the  Baain  of 
Minas,  with  Blomidon,  the  abode  of  sea-nymphs,  holding  eternal  guard  in  the 
distance.  Annapolis  Royal  and  Granville  Ferry  offer  special  sanitary  'privileges  to 
the  weary,  the  invalid,  and  the  pleasure-seeker  ;  bathing,  trouting,  hunting,  boat- 
ing, picnicking, are  all  enjoyed  in  turn.  From  the  mountain  slopes,  whither  parties 
go  for  a  day's  enjoyment,  the  prospect  is  unrivalled,  and  the  air  invigorating.  The 
thermometer  rarely  rises  above  90  degrees  in  the  day,  while  the  night  air  is  cool 
enough  for  blankets  and  light  overcoats.  A  moonUght  excursion  on  the  Basin 
is  something  to  remember  for  a  lifetime." 

The  Basin  of  Annapolis  waa  first  entered  in  1604  by  De  Monts's  fleet,  exploring  the 
shores  of  Acadie ;  and  the  beauty  of  the  scene  so  impressed  the  Baron  de  Pou- 
trincourt  that  he  secured  a  grant  here,  and  named  it  Port  Royal.  After  the  failure 
of  the  colony  at  St.  Croix  Island,  the  people  moved  to  this  point,  bringing  all 
their  stores  and  supplies,  and  settled  on  the  N.  side  of  the  river.  In  July,  1606, 
Lescarbot  and  another  company  of  Frenchmen  joined  the  new  settlement,  and 
conducted  improvements  of  the  land,  while  Poutrincourt  and  Ghamplain  explored 
the  Massachusetts  coast.  400  Indians  had  been  gathered  by  the  sagamore  Member- 
tou  in  a  stockaded  village  near  the  fort,  and  all  went  on  well  and  favorably  until  De 
Monts's  grant  was  annulled  by  the  King  of  France,  and  then  the  colony  was  aban- 
doned. ' 


ANNAPOLIS  ROYAL. 


Route  18.      87 


Tonr  TMun  later  the  brate  Baron  de  Pontrlnconrt  left  his  estates  In  OhampafiM, 
with  a  deep  cano  of  suppliea,  descended  the  rirers  Aube  and  Seine,  and  sailed  out 
from  Dieppe  (Feb.  26,  iHlO)  On  arriving  at  Port  Royal,  everything  was  found  as 
when  left ;  and  the  work  of  proselyting  the  Indians  was  at  once  entered  on.  Mem> 
bertou  and  his  tribe  were  converted,  baptized,  and  feasted,  amid  salutes  from  the 
cannon  and  the  chanting  of  the  Te  Deum ;  and  numerous  other  forest-clans  soon 
followed  the  same  courxc. 

Poutrincourt  was  a  GalKoan  Catliolic,  and  hated  the  Jesuits,  but  vras  forced  to 
talce  out  two  of  them  to  hut  new  domain.  They  assumed  a  high  authority  there, 
but  were  stcrrly  rebuked  by  the  liaron,  who  naid,  "  It  is  my  part  to  rule  you  on 
earth,  and  yours  only  to  guide  me  to  heaven."  They  threatened  to  lay  Port  Royal 
under  interdict ;  and  Poutrincourt's  son  and  succesoor  so  greatly  resented  this  that 
they  left  the  colony  on  a  mission  ship  sent  out  by  the  Marchioness  de  QuercbeviUe, 
and  founded  8t.  Sauveur,  on  the  island  of  Mount  Desert.  In  1618,  after  the  Vir- 
ginians under  Oapt.  Argall  had  destroyed  St.  Sauveur,  the  vengcAil  Jesuits  piloted 
their  fleet  to  Port  Royal,  which  was  completely  demolished.  Poutrincourt  came 
out  in  1614  only  to  find  his  colony  in  ruins,  and  the  remnant  of  the  people  wandering 
in  the  forest ;  and  wsa  so  disheartened  that  he  retu*7icd  to  France,  where  he  was 
killed,  the  next  year,  in  the  battle  of  Mery-sur-Seino. 

It  is  a  memorable  &ct  that  these  attacks  of  the  Virginians  on  Mount  Desert  and 
Port  Royal  were  the  very  commencement  of  the  wars  between  Great  Britain  and 
France  in  North  America,  "  which  scarcely  ever  entirely  ceased  until,  at  the  cost  of 
infinite  blood  and  treasure,  France  was  stripped  of  all  her  possessions  in  America  by 
the  peace  of  1763." 

Between  1620  and  1630  an  ephemeral  Scottish  colony  was  located  at  Port  Royal, 
and  was  succeeded  by  the  French.  In  1628  the  place  was  captured  by  Sir  David 
Kirk,  with  an  English  fleet,  and  was  left  in  ruins.  In  1684  it  wus  granted  to  Claude 
de  Razilly,  "  Seigneur  de  lta>.illy,  des  £aux  Mesles  et  Cuon,  en  Anjou,"  who  after- 
wards became  commandant  of  Oleron  and  vice-admiral  of  trance.  He  was  a  bold 
naval  officer,  related  to  0'.irdinal  Richelieu ;  and  his  brother  Isaac  commanded  at 
I^have  (see  Route  26).  Uis  lieutenants  were  D'Aulnay  Ghurnisay  and  Cliarles  de  la 
Tour,  and  he  transferred  all  his  Acadian  estates  to  the  former,  in  164",  after  wUch 
began  the  feudal  wars  between  those  two  nobles  (see  page  19).  Several  fleets  sailed 
from  Port  Royal  to  attack  La  Tour,  at  St.  John ;  and  a  Boston  fleet,  in  alliance  with 
La  Tour,  assailed  Port  Royal. 

In  1654  the  town  was  under  the  rule  of  Emmanuel  le  Borgne,  a  merchant  of  La 
Rochelle,  who  had  succeeded  to  W  *  'ilnay's  estates,  by  the  aid  of  C^sar,  Duke  of 
Venddme,  on  account  of  debts  due  to  him  from  the  Acadian  lord.  Later  in  the 
same  year  the  fortress  was  taken  by  a  fleet  sent  out  by  Oliver  Cromwell,  but  the  in- 
habitants of  the  valley  were  not  disturbed. 

By  the  census  of  1671  there  were  361  souls  at  Port  Royal,  with  over  1,000  head  of 
live-stock  and  864  acres  of  culti^  ated  land  In  1684  the  fishing-fleet  of  the  port  was 
captured  by  English  "  corsairs  ' ;  and  in  1686  there  were  622  souls  in  the  town.  In 
1690  the  fort  contained  18  caimon  and  86  soldiers,  and  was  takeu  and  pillaged  by 
Sir  William  Phipps,  who  sailed  from  Boston  with  3  war-vessels  and  TCiO  men.  A 
few  months  later  it  was  plundered  by  corsairs  from  the  ^^est  Indies,  and  it.  1691 
the  Chevalier  de  Villcbon  took  the  fort  in  the  name  of  Fr.  nee.  Baron  La  Hontan 
wrote :  "  Port  Royal,  the  capital,  or  the  only  city  of  Acadia,  is  in  effect  no  more 
than  a  little  paltry  town  that  is  somewhat  enlarged  since  the  war  broke  out  in  1689 
by  the  accession  of  the  inhabitants  that  lived  near  Boston,  the  metropolitan  of  New 
England.  It  subsists  upon  the  traffic  of  the  skins  which  the  savages  bring  thither 
to  truck  for  European  goods."  In  the  summer  of  1707  the  fortress  was  attacked  by 
2  regiments  and  a  small  fleet,  from  Boston,  and  siege  operations  were  commenced. 
An  attempt  at  storming  the  works  by  night  was  frustrated  by  M.  de  Subercase's 
vigilance  and  the  brisk  fire  of  the  French  artillery,  and  the  besiegers  were  finally 
forced  to  retire  with  severe  loss.  A  few  weeks  later  a  second  expedition  from  Massa- 
chusetts attacked  the  works,  but  after  a  siege  of  15  days  their  camps  were  stormed  - 
by  the  Baron  de  St.  Castin  and  the  Chevalier  de  la  Boularderie,  and  the  feebly  led 
Americans  were  driven  on  board  their  ships.  Sul)erca8e  then  enlarged  the  fortress, 
made  arrangements  to  run  off  slaves  from  Boston,  and  planned  to  capture  Rhode 
Island,  "  which  is  inhabited  by  rich  Quakers,  and  u  the  resort  of  rascals  and  even 
pirates." 

In  the  autumn  of  1710  the  fHmtes  Dragon,  Chester ^  i/'almouth,  LeosU^ffe,  Fevers- 
Aorn,  &ar^  and  Province^  with  20  transports,  left  Boston  and  sailed  to  Port  BoyaL 


88      Route  18.       THE  ANNAPOLIS  VALLEY. 


Them  mm  2  rqifanents  firom  Masaaehtuetts,  2  from  the  rest  of  New  England,  and  1 
of  Bojral  Marines.  After  the  erection  of  mortar-batterieo,  several  days  were  spent 
in  bombarding  the  fort  from  the  fleet  and  the  siege-lines,  but  the  fire  from  thfe  ram- 
parts was  kept  up  steadily  until  the  garrison  were  on  the  verge  of  starvation ;  Suber- 
oase  then  surrendered  his  forces  (2^  men),  who  were  shipped  off  to  France,  and 
Gen.  Nicholson  changed  the  name  of  Port  Royal  to  Annafous  Botal,  in  honor  of 
Queen  Anne,  then  sovereign  of  Great  Britain. 

In  1711,  80  New-Englanders  from  the  garrison  were  cut  to  pieces  at  Bloody  Brook, 
12  M.  up  the  river,  and  the  fortress  wa«  then  invested  by  the  Acadians  and  Micmacs. 
For  nearly  40  years  afterwards  Annapolis  was  almost  always  in  a  state  of  siege,  being 
menaced  fh>m  time  to  time  by  the  disaffected  Acadians  and  their  savage  allies.  In 
1744  the  non-combatants  were  sent  to  Boston  for  safety,  and  in  July  of  tbaf  year  the 
fort  was  beleaguered  by  a  force  of  fanatic  Catholics  under  the  Abbe  Laloutre.  Five 
companies  of  Massachusetts  troops  soon  joined  the  garrison,  and  the  besiegers  were 
reinforced  by  French  regulars  from  Louisbourg.  The  siege  was  continued  for  nearly 
three  months,  but  Gov.  Mascarene  showed  a  bold  front,  and  provisions  and  men 
came  in  from  Boston.  The  town  was  destroyed  by  the  artillery  of  the  fort  and  by 
Incendiary  sorties,  since  it  served  to  shelter  the  hostile  riflemen.  Soon  after  Duvlvier 
and  Laloutre  had  retired,  two  French  frigates  entered  the  Basin  and  captured  some 
ships  of  Massachusetts,  but  left  four  days  before  Tyng's  Boston  squadron  arrived. 
A  year  later,  De  Ramezay  menaced  the  fort  with  700  men,  but  was  easily  beaten  off 
by  the  garrison,  aided  by  the  frigates  Chester,  60,  and  Shirley,  20,  which  were  lying 
in  the  Basin.  After  the  deportation  of  the  Acadians,  Annapolis  remained  in  peace 
until  1781,  when  two  American  war-vessels  ascended  the  Basin  by  night,  surprised 
and  captured  the  fortress  and  spiked  its  gnns,  and  plundered  every  house  in  the 
town,  after  locking  the  citizens  up  in  the  old  block-house. 

The  Annapolis  VaUey. 

This  pretty  district  has  suffered,  like  the  St.  John  River,  from  the  absurdly  ex- 
travagant descriptions  of  its  local  admirers,  and  its  depreciation  by  Mr.  Warner  (see 
page  84}  expresses  the  natural  reaction  which  must  be  felt  by  travellers  (unless  they 
axe  from  Newfoundland  or  Labrador)  after  comparing  the  actual  valley  with  these 
high-flown  panegyrics.  A  recent  Provincial  writer  says :  ''  The  route  of  the  'Wind- 
sor &,  Annapolis  Railway  lies  through  a  magnificent  farming-country  whose  beauty 
is  80  great  that  we  exhaust  the  English  language  of  its  ac^ctlves,  and  are  compelled 
to  revert  to  the  quaint  old  French  which  was  spoken  by  the  early  settlers  of  this 
Ckirden  of  Canada,  in  our  efforts  to  describe  it."  In  point  of  fkct  the  Annapolis 
region  is  &r  inferior  either  in  beauty  or  fertility  to  the  valleys  of  the  Nashua,  the 
Schuylkill,  the  Shenandoah,  and  scores  of  other  familiar  streams  which  have  been 
described  without  effusion  and  without  impressing  the  service  of  alien  languages. 
The  Editor  walked  through  a  considerable  portion  of  this  valley,  in  the  process  of  a 
closer  analysis  of  its  features,  and  found  a  tranquil  and  commonplace  farming- 
district,  devoid  of  salient  points  of  interest,  and  occupied  by  an  insufficient  popula- 
tion, among  whose  hamlets  he  found  unvarying  and  honest  hospitality  and  kind- 
ness. It  is  a  peaceful  rural  land,  hemmed  in  between  high  and  monotonous  ridges, 
blooming  during  its  brief  summer,  and  will  afford  a  series  of  pretty  views  and  pleas- 
ing suggestions  to  the  traveller  whoso  expectations  have  not  been  raised  beyond 
bounds  by  the  exaggerated  praises  of  well-meaning,  but  injudicious  authors. 

It  Is  cladmed  that  the  apples  of  the  Annapolis  Yalley  are  the  best  in  America,  and 
£0,000  barrels  are  exported  yearly,  —  many  of  which  are  sold  in  the  cities  of  Great 
Britain.  The  chief  productions  of  the  district  are  hay,  cheese,  and  live-stock,  a  large 
proportion  of  which  is  exported. 


The  Halifax  train  runs  out  from  Annapolis  over  the  lowlands,  and  takes 
a  course  to  the  N.  E.,  near  the  old  highway.  Bridgetown  (3  small  hotels) 
is  the  first  important  station,  and  is  14  M.  from  Annapolis,  at  the  head 
of  navigation  on  the  river.  It  has  about  1,600  inhabitants,  4  churches, 
and  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  is  situated  in  a  district  of  apple-orchards 
and  rich  pastures.    Some  manufacturing  is  done  on  the  water-power  of 


WILMOT  SPRINGS, 


MauUlS.       89 


a  large 

takes 
hotels) 

head 
irches, 
chards 

ret  of 


the  Annapolis  River  and  its  branches;  and  the  surrounding  country  is 
well  populated,  and  is  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  healthiest  districts  in  Nova 
Scotia.  To  the  S.  is  Bloody  Brook,  where  a  detachment  of  New-£ngland 
troops  was  massacred  by  the  French  and  Indians ;  and  roads  lead  up  over 
the  South  Mt.  into  the  interior,  dotted  with  small  hamlets,  inhabited  by 
the  descendants  of  old  soldiers.  Many  large  lakes  and  streams  filled  wiUi 
trout,  and  good  hunting-grounds  are  in  this  region. 

Paradise  (small  inn)  is  a  pleasantly  situated  village  of  about  400  inhab- 
itants, with  several  saw  and  grist  mills  and  tanneries.  The  principal 
exports  are  lumber  and  cheese,  though  there  are  also  large  deposits  of  mei^ 
chantable  granite  in  the  vicinity.  A  road  crosses  the  North  Mt.  to  Port 
Williams^  7  M.  distant,  a  fishing-village  of  about  300  inhabitants,  situated 
on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  coast  is  illuminated  here,  at  night,  by  two 
white  lights.    Farther  down  the  shore  is  the  hamlet  of  St.  Croix  Cove, 

Latorencetown  is  a  prosperous  village  of  about  600  inhabitants,  whence 
much  lumber  is  exported.  In  1754,  20,000  acres  in  this  vicinity  were 
granted  to  20  gentlemen,  who  named  their  new  domain  in  honor  of  Gov. 
Lawrence.  8  M.  distant,  on  the  summit  of  the  North  Mt.,  is  the  bamlet 
of  Havelock,  beyond  which  is  the  farming  settlement  of  Mt.  ffanley,  near 
the  Bay  of  Fundy.  New  Albany  (small  inn)  is  a  forest-village  8-10  M. 
S.  E.  of  Lawrencetown ;  and  about  10  M.  farther  into  the  great  central 
wilderness  is  the  farming  district  of  Springfield,  beyond  the  South  Mt. 

Middleton  (Middleton  Hotel),  a  small  village  near  the  old  iron-mines  on 
the  South  Mt.,  is  the  valley  terminus  of  the  Nictaux  &  Atlantic  R.  R.  A 
few  miles  S.  are  the  Nictaux  Falls,  a  pretty  cascade  on  a  small  mountain- 
stream.  1^  M.  from  Middleton  is  the  hamlet  of  Lower  Middleton,  sur- 
rounded by  orchards.  Wilmot  station  is  }  M.  from  Farmington  (two 
inns),  a  pleasant  little  Presbyterian  village.  Margaretsville  (Harris's 
Hotel)  is  7  M.  distant,  across  the  North  Mt.,  and  is  a  shipbuilding  and  fish- 
ing settlement  of  300  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Fruit 
and  lumber  are  exported  hence  to  the  United  States. 

The  'Wilmot  Snrines  are  about  8  M.  from  Farmington,  and  hare,  for  many 
years,  enjoyed  a  local  celebrity  for  their  efiBcacy  in  healing  cutaneous  disetues  and 
wounds  Hall's  Hotel  is  at  the  Springs,  with  pleasant  grounds  and  a  goodly  pat- 
ronage. The  springs  are  situated  in  a  grove  of  tell  trees  near  the  road,  filling  two 
large  basins;  and  the  water  is  cold,  clear,  and  nearly  tasteless.  The  principal 
Ingredients  are,  in  each  gallon :  78  grains  of  sulphuric  acid,  64^  grains  of  lime,  6 
grains  of  soda  and  potash,  and  8  grains  of  magnesia.  Many  visitors  pass  the  summer 
at  Wilmot  every  year,  on  account  of  the  benefits  resulting  firom  the  use  of  these 
waters. 

Kingston  station  is  IJ  M.  from  Kingston,  2  M.  from  Melvern  Square, 
2J  M.  from  Tremont,  and  4  M.  from  Prince  William  Street,  rural  hamlets 
in  the  valley.  From  Morden  Road  station  a  highway  runs  N.  W.  7  M. 
acrosstheNorthMt.  to  the  little  port  of  Morden,  or  French  Cross  (Bal- 
comb'H  Hotel),  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Station,  Ayletford  (Patterson's  Hotel) 
a  small  hamlet  from  which  aroad  runs  S.  E.  to  Factory  Dale  (4  M.),  ft  man- 


90      Route  18, 


KENTVILLB. 


4 


ufacturing  hamlet  whence  the  valley  is  overlooked;  and  the  farming  towns 
of  Jacksonville  and  Morristoton  are  6  -  7  M.  away,  on  the  top  of  the  South  Mt. 

ILake  George  {Halfs  tnn)  i8l2M.  difltant,  whence  the  great  forefit-bonnd  chain 
of  the  Ayle^ford  Lakes  may  be  vibited.  The  chief  of  these  if*  Kempt  Lake, 
^hich  is  about  7  M.  long.  A  road  runs  S.  from  tbe  Lake  George  settlement  by  Lake 
Paul  and  Owl  Lake  to  Falkland  (32  M.  from  Aylesford),  which  is  on  the  great  Lake 
8herbrooke,  in  Lunenburg  County,  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Gold  River. 

*'  The  great  Aylesford  sand-plain  folks  call  it,  in  a  ginral  way,  the  Dcvirs  Ooose 
Pasture.  It  is  18  M.  long  and  7  M.  wide ;  it  ain't  just  drifting  sands,  but  it 's  all 
but  that,  it 's  so  barren.  It 's  uneven,  or  wavy,  like  tbe  swell  of  the  sea  in  a  calm, 
and  is  covered  with  short,  thin,  dry,  coarse  grafs,  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  a 
half-starved  birch  and  a  stunted  misshapen  spruce.    It  is  jest  about  aa  silent  at\d 

lonesome  and  desolate  a  place  as  you  would  wish  to  see All  that  country 

thereabouts,  as  I  have  heard  tell  when  I  was  a  boy,  was  once  owned  by  the  Lord, 
the  king,  and  the  devil.  The  glebe-lands  belonged  to  the  first,  the  ungranted  wil- 
derness-lands to  the  second,  and  the  sand-plain  fell  to  the  share  of  the  last  (and 
people  do  say  the  old  gentleman  was  rather  done  in  the  division,  but  tbat  is  neither 
here  nor  there),  and  so  it  ia  called  to  this  day  the  DeviVs  Goose  Pasture.^'* 

Station,  Bendck  (two  inns),  a  prosperous  village  of  400  inhabitants, 
where  the  manufacture  of  shoes  is  carried  on.  A  road  leads  to  the  N.  W. 
7  M.  across  Pleasant  Valley  and  the  Black  Rock  Mt.  to  Harborville,  a  ship- 
building village  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  whence  large  quantities  of  cordwood 
and  potatoes  are  shipped  to  the  United  States.  Several  miles  farther  up 
the  bay-shore  is  the  village  of  Canada  Creek,  near  which  is  a  lighthouse. 

At  Berwick  the  line  enters  the  *  Cornwallis  Valley,  which  is  shorter 
but  much  more  picturesque  than  that  of  Annapolis.  Following  the  course 
of  the  Cornwallis  River,  the  line  approaches  the  base  of  the  South  Mt., 
while  the  North  Mt.  trends  away  to  the  N.  E.  at  an  ever-increasing  angle. 
Beyond  the  rural  stations  of  Waterville,  Cambridge,  and  Coldbrook,  the 
train  reaches  Kentville  ( Webster  House ;  restaurant  in  the  station),  the 
headquarters  of  the  railway  and  the  capital  of  Kings  County.  This  town 
has  3,000  inhabitants,  5  churches,  and  a  weekly  newspaper;  and  there  are 
several  mills  and  quarries  in  the  vicinity.  Raw  umber  and  manganese 
have  been  found  here.  The  roads  to  the  N.  across  the  mountain  lead  to 
the  maritime  hamlets  of  Hall's  Harbor  (10  M.))  Chipman's  Brook  (14  M.), 
and  Baxter's  Harbor  (12  M.);  also  to  Sheffield  Mills  (7  M.),  Canning 
(8  M.),  Steam  Mills  (2  M.),  and  Billtown  (6  M.). 

KenU)Ule  to  Chester. 

The  Royal  mail-stages  leave  Kentville  at  6  a.  m.  on  Monday  and  Thursday,  reach- 
ing Chester  in  the  afternoon.  The  return  trip  is  made  on  Tuesday  and  Friday.  The 
distance  between  Kentville  and  Chester  is  46  M.,  and  the  intervening  country  is 
wild  and  pictureiaque.  After  passing  the  South  Mt.  by  the  Mill-Brook  Vallty,  at 
8-10  M.  from  Kentville,  the  road  runs  near  tbe  Gaspereaux  Lake,  a  beautiful 
forest-loch  about  6  M.  long,  with  many  ialandn  and  highly  diversified  shores.  This 
water  is  connected  by  short  straits  with  the  island-studded  Two-Mile  Lake  and  the 
Four^Mile  Lake,  near  which  are  the  romantic  Aylesford  Lakes.  £.  and  S.  £■  of 
the  Gaspereaux  Lake  are  the  trackless  solitudes  of  the  far-spreading  Blue  Mts., 
amid  whose  recesses  are  the  lakelets  where  the  Gold  River  takes  its  rise.  At  20  M. 
Arom  Kentville  the  stage  enters  the  Episcopal  village  of  New  Ross  (Turner's  Hotel), 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Dalhousie  Road  from  Halifks  to  Annapolis.  From  this  point 
the  stage  descends  the  valley  of  the  Gh>ld  River  to  Chester  (see  Route  24). 


';    I. 


I   ) 


n 


'r 


WINDSOR. 


EouU  18.      91 


reach- 
The 

n*ry  la 

autiful 
This 
Dd  the 
£.  of 

20  M. 

lotel). 

point 


i 


The  Halifax  train  runs  E.  from  Eentville  down  the  Gomwallis  Valley  to 
Port  WUliama,  which  is  1^  M.  from  the  village  of  that  name,  whence  daily 
stages  run  to  Canning.  The  next  station  is  Wolfville,  from  which  the  Land 
of  Evangeline  may  most  easily  be  visited  (see  Route  22).  The  buildings 
of  Acadia  College  are  seen  on  the  hkU  to  the  r.  of  the  track. 

The  Halifax  train  runs  out  from  Wolfville  with  the  wide  expanse  of  the 

reclaimed  meadows  on  the  1.,  beyond  which  is  Cape  Blomidon,  looming 

leagues  away.    In  a  few  minutes  the  train  reaches  Grand  Fr^,  and  as  it 

slows  up  before  stopping,  the  tree  is  seen  (on  the  1.  about  300  ft.  from  the 

track)  which  marks  the  site  of  the  ancient  Acadian  chapel.    Beyond  Hor- 

ion  Landing  the  Gaspereaux  River  is  crossed,  and  the  line  begins  to  swing 

around  toward  the  S.  E.    At  Avonport  the  line  reaches  the  broad  Avon 

River,  and  runs  along  its  I.  bank  to  Hantsport  (two  inns).    This  is  a 

large  manufacturing  and  shipbuilding  village,  where  numerous  vessels 

are  owned.    In  the  vicinity  are  productive  quarries  of  freestone.   Mount 

Denaon  station  is  near  the  hill  who«e  off-look  Judge  Haliburtou  so  highly 

ex*ols :  — 

"  I  have  seen  at  different  periods  of  my  i5fe  a  good  deal  of  Europe  ieind  much  of 
America ;  but  I  have  seldom  seen  anything  to  be  compared  with  the  view  of  the 
Basin  of  Minas  and  its  adjacent  landscape,  as  it  presents  itself  to  you  on  your  ascent 

of  Mount  Denson He  who  travels  on  this  continent,  and  does  not  spend  a  few 

days  on  the  shores  of  this  beautiful  and  extraordinary  baein,  may  be  said  to  have 
missed  one  of  the  greatest  attractions  on  this  side  of  the  water." 

The  next  station  is  Falmouth,  in  a  region  which  abounds  in  gypsum. 
Back  toward  Central  Falmouth  there  are  prolific  orchards  of  apples.  The 
line  now  crosses  the  Avon  River  on  the  most  costly  bridge  in  the  Mari- 
time Provinces,  over  the  singular  tides  of  this  system  of  waters. 

The  traveller  who  passes  from  Annapolis  to  Windsor  at  the  hours  of  low-tide  will 
sympathize  with  the  author  of  "  Baddeck,"  who  says  that  the  Avon  "  would  have 
been  a  charming  river  if  there  had  been  a  drop  of  water  in  it.  I  never  knew  before 
how  much  water  adds  to  a  river.  Its  slimy  bottom  was  quite  a  ghastly  spectacle, 
an  ugly  rent  in  the  land  that  nothing  could  heal  but  the  friendly  returning  tide. 
I  should  think  it  would  be  confusing  to  dwell  by  a  river  that  runs  ilrst  one  way  and 
then  the  other  and  then  vanishes  altogether." 

The  remarkable  tides  of  this  river  are  also  described  by  Mr.  Noble,  as  follows : 
The  tide  was  out,  "  leaving  miles  of  black  "  (red)  '*  river-bottom  entirely  bare,  with 
only  a  small  stream  coursing  through  in  a  serpentine  manner.  A  line  of  blue  water 
was  visible  on  the  northern  horizon.  After  an  absence  of  an  hour  or  so,  I  loitered 
back,  when,  to  my  surprise,  there  was  a  river  like  the  Hudson  at  Gatskill,  running 
up  with  a  powerful  current.  The  high  wharf,  upon  which  but  a  short  time  before 
I  had  stood  and  surveyed  the  black,  unsightly  fields  of  mud,  was  now  up  to  its  mid- 
dle in  the  turbid  and  whirling  stream." 

Windsor  (  Clifton  House,  large  and  comfortable ;  Avon  House ;  Victoria) 
is  a  cultured  and  prosperous  town  of  3,019  inhabitants,  occupying  the 
promontory  at  the  intersection  of  the  Avon  and  St.  Croix  Rivers.  The 
adjacent  districts  of  Falmouth  and  St.  Croix  have  about  6,000  inhabitants. 
There  are  in  Windsor  7  churches,  2  banks,  an  iron  foundry,  furniture 
factories,  shipyards,  etc.  The  chief  exportation  of  Windsor  is  plaster 
of  Paris,  or  gypsum,  large  quantities  of  which  are  used  in  the  United 


92    -  RmtUlS, 


WINDSOR. 


States  for  fertilizing  the  soil  and  calcining  purposes.  Near  the  end  of  the 
railway  \)ridge,  on  a  projecting  hill,  is  the  Clifton  mansion,  formerly  the 
home  of  the  genial  and  witty  Thomas  C.  Haliburton  (bom  at  Windsor  in 
1797,  13  years  a  Judge  in  Nova  Scotia,  6  years  an  M.  P.  at  London,  and 
died  in  1865),  the  author  of  "  Sam  Slick,  The  Clockmaker,^'  etc. 

On  the  knoll  over  the  village  are  the  crambling  block-houses  and  earth- 
works of  Fort  Edward,  whence  is  obtained  a  pretty  view  down  the  widen- 
ing Avon  and  out  over  the  distant  Basin  of  Minas.  About  1  M.  from 
the  station,  on  a  hill  which  overlooks  the  fine  valley  of  the  Avon  and  its 
uncleared  mountain-rim,  are  the  plain  buildings  of  King's  College,  the 
oldest  college  now  existing  in  Canada. 

It  WW  founded  in  1788,  and  chartered  by  King  George  TIT.  in  1802.  It  !s  under 
the  patron8!?e  of  the  Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  and  is  well  endowed  with  Bcholar- 
shipa,  honors,  etc.  Its  officers  must  belons;  to  the  Church  of  England,  though 
there  are  no  tests  for  admission  of  students.  Many  of  the  most  influential  and 
distinguished  British-Americans  have  been  educated  here,  and  "  Kingsmen  "  are 
found  in  all  parts  of  Canada.  The  college  has  6  professors  and  about  40  students. 
Thet«  is  also  a  divinity  school  In  connection  with  the  college. 

The  Province  of  Nova  Scotia  is  occupied  by  86  Christian  sects.  Of  its  inhabitants. 
65,124  belong  to  the  Anglican  Church,  and  are  ministered  to  by  a  lord  bishop,  i 
canons,  8  ruml  deans,  and  68  clergymen.  There  are  102,001  Catholics,  108,589  Pres- 
byt.'riana,  78{490  Baptists,  41,751  Methodists,  and  4,958  Lutherans  (census  of  1871). 

The  site  of  Windsor  was  called  by  the  Indians  Pisiquidy  "  the  Junction  of  the 
Waters,"  and  the  adjacent  lowlands  were  settled  at  an  early  day  by  the  French,  who 
raised  large  quantities  of  wheat  and  exported  it  to  Boston.  The  French  settled  in 
this  vicinity  about  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  but  retired  &r  into  the  interior 
at  the  time  of  the  British  conquest.  Gov.  Lawrence  issued  a  proclamation  inviting 
settlers  to  come  in  Arom  New  England,  stating  that  "  100,000  acres  of  land  had  been 
cultivated  and  had  borne  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  hemp,  flax,  etc.,  for  the  last  cen- 
tury without  failure."  The  deserted  French  hamlets  were  occupied  in  1759-60  by 
fiimilies  from  Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island,  and  their  descendants  still  possess 
the  land.  The  Rhode-Islanders  erected  the  township  of  Newport,  Massachusetts 
formed  Falmouth,  and  Windsor  was  granted  to  British  officers  and  was  fortified  iu 
1769.  The  broad  rich  marshes  near  Windsor  had  attracted  a  large  Acadian  popula> 
tion,  and  here  was  their  principal  church,  whose  site  is  still  venerated  by  the  Mio- 
mac  Indians. 

"  I  cannot  recall  a  prettier  village  than  this.  If  you  doubt  my  word,  conie  and 
see  it.  Toi>der  wu  discern  a  portion  of  the  Basin  of  Minas ;  around  us  are  the  rich 
meadows  of  Nora  Scotia.  Intellect  has  here  placed  a  crowning  college  upon  a  hill ; 
opulence  has  surrounded  it  with  picturesque  villas."  (Cozzens.)  Another  writer 
has  spoken  with  enthusiasm  of  Windsor's  "  wide  and  beautiful  environing  mead- 
ows and  the  hanging-gardens  of  i^ountain-forests  on  the  S.  and  W." 

The  Halifax  train  sweeps  along  the  St.  Croix  River  around  Windsor, 
passing  (on  the  r.)  the  dark  buildings  of  King's  College,  on  a  hilltop,  with 
the  new  chapel  in  front  of  their. line.  The  character  of  the  landscape  be- 
gins to  change,  and  to  present  a  striking  contrast  with  the  agricultural 
regions  just  traversed. 

"  Indeed,  if  a  man  can  live  on  rocks,  like  a  goat,  he  may  settle  anywhere  between 
Windsor  and  Halifax.  With  the  exception  of  a  wild  pond  or  two.  we  saw  nothing 
but  rocks  and  stunted  firs  for  forty-five  miles,  a  monotony  unrelievHi  by  one  pic- 
turesaue  feature.  Then  we  longed  for  the '  Garden  of  Nova  Scotia,'  a  id  understood 
what  Is  meant  by  the  name."  ( Vr  AaMsa's  Baddeck.) 

Beyond  Three-Mile  Plains  the  train  reaches  J\r«i^por<,  near  which  large 


end  of  the 
rmerly  the 
Windsor  in 
mdon,  and 
'  etc. 

and  earth- 
the  widen- 
L  M.  from 
on  and  its 
)llege  the 


It  la  under 
ith  Bcholar- 
ind,  though 
uential  and 
innen  "  are 
10  students. 

nhabitanta. 
•d  bi8hop,  4 
98,689  Pres. 
us  of  1871). 

ition  of  the 
'rench,  who 
h  settled  In 
the  interior 
on  Inviting 
id  had  been 
he  last  cen- 
1759-60  by 
till  possess 
ssachusetts 
fortified  iu 
ian  popula- 
>y  the  Mio- 

,  conits  and 
tre  the  rich 
pon  a  hill ; 
t.her  writer 
ling  mead- 


Windsor, 
top,  with 
Bcape  be- 
'icttltural 


re  between 
w  nothing 
>y  one  pio- 
nderstood 


ich  large        ^ 


: 


t.  A^iftMNM  BtOUkttt 
I.  IhrtakM  Mui^^m, 

H  iUtmrnmimfi, 

4.  Onui  Mlm$t, 


c.% 

CI. 
At. 

AS. 
C.  tl 
At. 


A|. 

A  t. 

Ai. 


At. 
Al 


It.  ^Mnit  , 
It.  S».  iMh-t,     , 

14.  A.  Aafr, 

15.  Si.  Cmtf*,-^ 

16.  A  MaUknift, 

17.  CMlwtf  ^  SMra/  lUtrt, 

19*  nfw  CMtIMh^ 
to.  (MmMW  GftMNrA^ 
tl.  iUHBiiy  Barrtdti,    • 

tt.  mmum  Mmtdt,    . 


qui 

8to| 

frol 
BrJ 
far! 
Chi 
froi 


lur 


Fi\ 


HALIFAX. 


RauU  19,       93 


> 

/' 

i 

I 
.         .1 

1 

i 

■ 

quantities  of  gypaxan  are  quarried  from  the  veins  in  the  soft  marly  sand- 
stone. Nearly  8,000  tons  of  this  fine  fibrous  mineral  are  shipped  yearly 
from  Newport  to  the  United  States.  To  the  N.  are  the  villages  of 
Brooklyn  (5  M.),  devoted  to  manufac»  ..i.ng;  Scotch  Village  (9  M.),  a 
farming  settlement;  and  Burlington,  on  the  Kennetcook  River  (10  M.). 
Chivirie  and  Walton,  20-22  M.  N.,  on  the  Basin  of  Minas,  are  accessible 
from  Newport  by  a  tri-weekly  conveyance.  The  train  passes  on  to  EUerS' 
liouse  (small  inn),  a  hamlet  clustered  around  a  furniture-factory  and 
lumber-mills.  2^  M.  distant  is  the  settlement  at  the  foot  of  the  Ardoiae 
Mt.,  which  is  the  highest  point  of  land  in  the  Province,  and  overlooks 
Falmouth,  Windsor,  and  the  Basin  of  Minas.  The  train  now  crosses  the 
Five-Island  Lake,  skirts  Uniacke  Lake,  with  Mt.  Uniacke  on  the  N.,  and 
stops  at  the  Mt.  Uniacke  station  (small  inn).  The  Mt.  Uniacke  estate  and 
mansion  were  fouided  more  than  50  years  ago  by  Richard  John  Uniacke, 
then  Attorney-General  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  house  occupies  a  picturesque 
position  between  two  rock-bound  lakes,  and  the  domain  has  a  hard- 
working tenantry.  The  Mt.  Uniacke  Gnld-Mines  are  8  M.  from  the  sta- 
tion, and  were  opened  in  1865.  In  1869  the  mines  yielded  $37,840,  or 
$  345  to  each  workman,  being  6  ounces  and  4  pennyweights  from  each 
ton  of  ore.  For  the  next  10  M.ithe  line  traverses  an  irredeemable  wil- 
derness, and  then  reaches  Beaver  Bank^  whence  lumber  and  slate  are 
exported.  At  Windsor  Junotion  the  train  runs  on  to  the  rails  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway  (see  page  82),  which  it  follows  to  Halifax. 

19.   Halifax. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  Cape  Sambro  is  usually  seen  first  bj  the  passenger 
on  tlie  tronsatlautic  steamers,  and  Halifax  Harbor  is  soon  entered  between  the  light- 
houses on  Chebucto  Head  and  Devil  Island.  Tbe^e  lights  are  7K  1^1  •  apart,  Ghebucto 
(on  tlie  1.)  having  a  revolving  Ught  visible  for  18  M.,  and  Devil  Island  a  fijced  red 
light  on  a  brown  tower.  On  the  W.  shore  the  fishing-hamlets  of  Portuguese  Cove, 
Bear  Cove,  and  Herring  Cove  are  passed  in  succession.  4  M.  S.  E.  of  Herring  Gove 
is  the  dangerous  Thrumcap  Shoal,  where  H.  B.  M.  frigate  La  Tribune^  44,  was 
wrecked  in  1797,  and  nearly  all  her  people  were  lost,  partly  by  reason  of  an  absurd 
stretch  of  naval  punctilio.  Between  this  shoal  and  McNab's  Island  on  one  side,  and 
the  mainland  on  the  other,  is  the  long  and  narrow  strait  called  the  Eastern  Passage. 
IiV  1862  the  Confederate  cruiser  Tallahassee  was  blockaded  in  Halifax  Harbor  by  a 
squadron  of  United-States  frigates.  The  shallow  and  tortuous  Eastern  Passage  was 
not  watched,  since  nothing  but  small  fishing-crafb  had  ever  traversed  it,  and  it  was 
considered  impassable  for  a  steamer  like  the  TallaJiassee.  But  Capt.  Wood  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  high  tide,  on  a  dark  night,  and  crept  cautiously  out  behind  McNab's 
Island.    By  daylight  he  was  far  out  of  sight  of  the  outwitted  blockading  fleet. 

2  M.  firom  Herring  Cove  the  steamer  passes  Salisbury  Head,  and  rnas  between  the 
Martello  Tower  and  lighthouse  on  Maugher  Beach  (r.  side)  and  the  York  Redoubt 
(1>^  M.  apart)  Near  the  Redoubt  is  a  Catholic  church,  and  a  little  above  is  the 
hamlet  of  Falkland,  with  its  Episcopal  church,  beyond  which  the  N.  W.  Arm  opens 
on  the  1.  Passing  between  the  batteries  on  McNab's  Island  and  Fort  Ogilvie,  on 
Point  Pleasant,  the  steamship  soon  runs  by  Fort  Clarence  and  the  fortress  on  Oeorje 
Island,  and  reaches  her  whiwrf  at  Halifax,  with  the  town  of  Dartmouth  and  the  g^reat 
Insane  Asylum  on  the  opposite  shore. 

Arrival  by  Railway.— The  railway  has  been  prolonged,  by  a  system  of 
costly  works,  to  a  terminus  within  the  city,  where  a  large  and  handsome  ter- 
miaal  station  has  been  erected,  with  all  modem  conyeniences.  It  Is  not  Ihr  ftom 
the  Queen's  Dock  Yard. 


94     Route  19. 


HALIFAX. 


Hotels.  ~ The  •HidUhx,  107  Hollls  St.,  92  a  daj;  the  •Intemfttloiial,  on  Hoi- 
Ufl  St..  81.76-2  a  day;  Carlton  Houm,  67  Argyle  St.,  amall  but  arUtouratie ; 
Royal.  ArgyU  St.:  Manaion  Houee,  140  Barriogton  St.;  Wayerley,  Pleawnt  St.; 
Albion,  SackTiUe  St. ;  and  numerous  small  second-class  houses.  UalUkx  needs  a 
flnt-clafw  modern  hotel.  ,.    ,     ^    ^  x,.     t 

Restaurants.  —  Ices,  pastry,  and  confectionery  may  bo  obtained  at  the  shops 
on  Barrlngton  and  Hollis  Sts.    American  beverages  are  compounded  at  the  bar  in 

the  Halifoz  House.  ... 

BeadinB-Iiooms.  —  The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  corner  of 
OranTille  and  Prince  Sts.  ;  the  Provincial  Library,  in  'the  Parliament  Buildings ; 
and  in  the  two  chief  hotels.  The  Halifax  Library  ia  at  197  Uoliis  St.  ;  and  the 
Citizens'  Free  Library  (founded  by  Chief  Justice  Sir  WUliam  Young)  is  at  266  Bar- 
rlngton St.,  and  in  open  from  3  to  6  P.  m.  The  Merchants'  Exchange  and  Reading- 
Room  is  at  158  Hollis  St.  The  Church  of  England  Institute  (Library  and  Gymna- 
sium) is  in  Granville  St. 

Clubs.  — The  Halifkx  Club  has  ah  elegant  house  at  165  Hollis  St.;  the  Catho- 
lic Young  Men's  Club,  Starr  St.  (open  from  2  to  10  p.  M.);  the  Highland,  North 
British,  St.  George's,  Charitable  Irish,  and  Germania  Societies.  The  Royal  Halifax 
Yacht  Club  has  a  house  at  Richmond,  with  billiard  and  reading  rooms,  and  a  line 
of  piers  and  boat-houses  for  the  vessels  of  their  fleet. 

Amasements.— There  is  a  neat,  comfortable,  and  fairly  appointed  theatre, 
called  the  Academy  of  Music  ;  and  several  Lecture  Halls.  During  the  winter  some 
fine  skating  is  enjoyed  at  the  Rink,  in  the  Public  Gardens.  Good  games  of  cricket 
and  indifferent  base-ball  playing  may  be  seen  on  the  Garrison  Cricket-Ground. 
But  Halifax  is  chiefly  famous  for  the  interest  it  takes  in  trials  of  skill  between 
yachtsmen  and,  oarsmen,  and  exciting  aquatic  contests  occur  frequently  duxiog 
the  summer.     ' 

Omnibuses  traverse  the  chief  streets  throughout  the  city,  at  a  low  ratj  of  &re. 
The  horse-car  tracks  have  been  taken  up.  There  are  also  a  great  numbe.  of  oar* 
riages  of  various  kinds,  but  their  fares  are  not  low. 

Railways.  — The  Intercolonial,  running  to  St  John,  N.  B.,  in  276  M.  (see 
Routes  16  and  17),  and  to  Pictou  in  113  M.  (see  Route  31) ;  the  Windsor  &  Annapolis, 
prolonged  by  a  steamship  connection  to  St.  John  (see  Route  18). 


Steamships.  —  The  Allan  Line,  fortniKhtly,  for  St.  John's 


.„^„„.j^„„j,  ^„^  „„.  „„uu  „j  N.  F.,  Queens- 

, ^      ,  altimore.     Fares,  Halifax  to  Liverpool,  9  75 

and  $  25 ;  to  Norfolk  or  Baltimore,  $  20  and  $  12.  The  Anchor  Line,  for  St.  John's, 
N.  F.,  and  Glasgow.  The  Royal  Mail  Steamers  Alpha  and  Delta  (Cunard  Line) 
leave  Halifax  for  Bermuda  and  St.  Thomas  every  fourth  Monday,  connecting  at  Rt. 
Thomas  with  steamships  for  all  parts  of  the  West  Indies,  Panama,  and  the  Spanidi 
Main. 

The  Carroll  and  Worcester  leave  Esson's  Wharf  for  Boston  on  alternate  Satur- 
days.   Fare,  S8;  with  state-room,  $9. 

The  Carroll  or  the  Worcester  leaves  Esson's  Wharf  every  Monday  noon  for  the 
8trait  of  Canso  and  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I.  Fares  to  Charlottetown,  cabin,  9  4 ; 
cabin  state-room,  $6:  saloon  state-room,  $6.  The  George  Shattuck  leaves  Cor- 
betts'  Wharf,  fortnightly,  for  N.  Sydney,  C.  B ,  and  St.  Pierre,  Miq.  (see  Route 
60).  The  steamship  Virgo  leaves  for  Sydney,  C.  3.,  and  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  every 
alternate  Tuesday  (see  Routes  36  and  51).  Fares,  to  Sydney,  $8;  to  St.  John's, 
9 15.  The  passenger  steamers  Alhambra  and  Canima,  cf  the  Cromwell  Line,  ply 
between  Halifhx  and  New  York  at  intervals  of  about  10  days. 

The  Micmac  cruises  in  the  harbor  during  the  summer,  running  from  the  South 
Ferry  Wharf  to  McNab's  Island  and  up  the  N.  W.  Arm  (fare,  25c.).  The  steam- 
fbrry  from  Dartmouth  has  its  point  of  departure  near  the  foot  of  George  St.  The 
Ooliah  makes  firequent  trips  up  the  Bedford  Basin. 

Stages  leave  Halifax  daily  for  Chester,  Lunenburg,  Liverpool,  Shelbume,  and 
Yarmouth  (see  Route  24),  departing  at  6  a.  M  Stages  leave  at  6  A.  M.,  on  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday  for  MuRquodoboit  Harbor,  Jeddore,  Ship  Harbor,  Tangier, 
Sheet  Harbor,  Beaver  Harbor,  and  Salmon  River  (see  Route  29). 

Halifax,  the  capital  of  the  Pro-  ince  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  chief 
naval  station  of  the  British  Empi.c  in  the  Western  Hemisphere,  occupies  a 
commanding  position  on  one  of  the  finest  harbors  of  the  Atlantic  coast.   It 


HALIFAX. 


ItouU  19.     95 


has  36,100  inhabitants  (census  of  1881),  with  7  banks,  5  daily  papers  and 
several  tri-weekiies  and  weeklies,  and  26  churches  (7  Anglican,  7  Presby- 
terian, 3  each  of  Catholic,  Wesleyan,  and  Baptist).  The  city  occupies  a 
picturesque  position  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  peninsula  (of  3,000  acres),  be- 
tween the  bay,  the  N.  W.  Arm,  and  the  Bedford  Basin;  and  looks  out 
upon  a  noble  harbor,  deep,  completely  sheltered,  easily  accessible,  and 
large  enough  "  to  contain  all  the  navies  of  Europe."  In  1869  the  imports 
amounted  to  $7,202,504,  and  the  exports  to  $3,169,548;  and  in  1870  the 
assessed  valuation  of  the  city  was  $16,753,812.  The  city  has  a  copious 
supply  of  water,  which  is  drawn  from  the  Chain  Lakes,  about  12  M.  dis- 
tant, and  so  high  above  Halifax  that  it  can  force  jets  over  the  highest 
houses  by  its  own  pressure.  There  is  a  fire-alarm  telegraph,  and  an  effi- 
cient fire  department,  with  several  steam-engines. 

The  city  lies  along  the  shore  of  the  harbor  for  2^  M.,  and  is  about  |  M. 
wide.  Its  plan  is  regular,  and  some  of  the  business  streets  are  well  built; 
but  the  general  character  of  the  houses  is  that  of  poor  construction  and 
dingy  colors.  It  has,  however,  been  much  bettered  of  late  years,  owing  to 
the  improvements  after  two  great  fires,  and  to  the  wealth  which  flowed  in 
during  the  American  civil  war,  and  hardly  deserves  the  severe  criticism 
of  a  recent  traveller:  "  Probably  there  is  not  anywhere  a  more  rusty,  for- 
lorn town,  and  this  in  spite  of  its  magnificent  situation.*' 

HoUis  and  Granville  Streets,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Parliament  Buildings, 
contain  the  most  attractive  shops  and  the  headquarters  of  the  great  import- 
ing houses.  Many  of  the  buildings  in  this  section  are  of  solid  and  elegant 
construction,  though  the  prevalence  of  dark  colors  gives  a  sombre  hue  to 
the  street  lines. 

The  Parliament  Building  occupies  the  square  between  Hollis,  George, 
Granville,  and  Prince  Streets,  and  is  surrounded  with  trees.  In  1880  this 
plain  structure  of  gray  stone  was  called  the  finest  building  in  North 
America,  but  American  architecture  has  advanced  very  far  since  that 
time.  Opposite  the  Granville-St.  entrance  is  the  Library,  occupying  a 
very  cosey  little  hall,  and  supplied  with  British  and  Canadian  works  on 
law,  history,  and  science.  In  the  N.  part  of  the  building  is  the  plain  and 
commodious  hall  .of  the  House  of  Assembly;  and  on  the  S.  is  the  chamber 
of  the  Legislative  Council,  in  which  are  some  fine  portraits.  On  the  r.  ar xi 
1.  of  the  vice-regal  throne  are  full-length  *  portraits  of  King  George  1*1. 
and  Queen  Charlotte;  on  the  N.  wall  are  Chief  Justice  Blowers,  King 
William  IV.,  Judge  Haliburton  (see  page  92),  *  Sir  Thomas  Strange  (by 
Benjamin  West),  and  Sir  Brenton  Haliburton.  Opposite  the  throne  are 
Nova  Scotia's  military  heroes,  Sir  John  Inglis  (the  defender  of  Lucknow) 
and  Sir  W.  Fenwick  Williams  of  Kars.  On  the  S.  wall  are  full-length  por- 
traits of  King  George  II.  and  Queen  Caroline. 

The  new  Frovinoial  Building  is  E.  of  the  Parliament  Building,  on 
Hollis  St.,  and  is  140  by  70  ft.  in  area.    It  is  built  of  brown  freestone,  in 


96      Jtoute  19, 


HALIFAX. 


an  ornate  style  of  architecture,  and  cost  S  120,000.  The  lower  story  is 
occupied  by  the  Post-Oifice;  and  the  third  floor  contains  the  *  Provinolal 
MuMuai,  which  exhibits  preserved  birds,  animals,  reptiles,  fossils,  min- 
erals, shells,  coins,  and  specimens  of  the  stones,  minerals,  coals,  and  gold 
ores  of  Nova  Scotia.  There  are  also  numerous  Indian  relics,  curiosities 
from  Japan  and  China,  naval  models,  and  old  portraits.  Opposite  the  en- 
trance is  a  gilt  pyramid,  which  represents  the  amount  of  gold  produced 
in  the  Province  between  1862  and  1870,^6  tons,  8  cwt.,  valued  at 
$  8,873,431.  Most  of  this  gold  has  been  coined  at  the  U.  S.  Mint  in  Phila- 
delphia, and  is  purer  and  finer  than  that  of  California  and  Montana. 

On  the  comer  of  Granville  and  Prince  Streets,  near  the  Parliament 
Building,  is  the  new  and  stately  stone  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Chris- 
tian Association,  with  its  reading-rooms  and  other  departments.  The 
massive  brownstone  house  of  the  Halifax  Club  is  to  the  S.,  on  Hollis  St. 

The  *  Citadel  covers  the  summit  of  the  hill  upon  whose  slopes  the  city  is 
built,  and  is  250  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Visitors  are  admitted  and 
allowed  to  pass  around  the  ramparts  under  escort  of  a  soldier,  after  regis- 
tering their  names  at  the  gate.  The  attendant  soldier  will  point  out  all 
the  objects  of*  interest,  and  (if  he  be  an  artillerist)  will  give  instructive 
discourse  on  the  armament,  though  his  language  may  sometimes  become 
hopelessly  technical.  The  Citadel  is  a  fortress  of  the  first  class,  according 
to  the  standards  of  the  old  school ;  though  of  late  years  the  government 
has  bestowed  much  attention  on  the  works  at  George's  Island,  which  are 
more  important  in  a  naval  point  of  view. 

The  works  were  commenced  by  Prince  Edward,  the  Duke  of  Kent,  and  the  &ther 
of  Queen  Victoria,  who  was  then  Commander  of  the  Forces  on  this  station.  He  em- 
ployed in  the  service  a  large  number  of  the  Maroons,  who  had  been  conquered  by 
the  British,  and  were  banished  from  Jamaica,  and  subsequently  deported  to  Sierra 
Leone.  Changes  and  additions. have  been  made  nearly  every  year  since,  until  the 
present  immense  stronghold  has  been  completed.  It  is  separated  firom  the  glacis  by 
a  deep  moat,  over  which  are  the  guns  on  the  numerous  bastions.  The  massive  ma- 
ponry  of  the  walls  seems  to  defy  assault,  and  the  extensive  barracks  within  are  said 
to  bo  bomb-proof.  During  the  years  18(3-74  the  artillery  has  been  changed,  and 
the  previous  mixed  armament  has  been  to  a  great  degree  replaced  by  muzzle-load- 
ing Woolwich  guns  of  heavy  calibre,  adapted  for  firing  the  conical  Palliser  shot  with 
points  of  chilled  iron.  The  visitor  is  allowed  to  walk  around  the  circuit  of  the  ram- 
parts, and  this  elevated  station  affords  a  broad  view  on  either  side.  Perhaps  the 
best  prospect  is  that  from  the  S.  E.  bastion,  overlooking  the  crowded  city  on  the 
slopes  below;  the  narrow  harbor  with  its  shipping;  Dartmouth,  sweeping  up  to- 
ward Bedford  Basin;  Fort  Clarence,  below  Dartmouth,  with  its  dark  casemates; 
McNab's  Island,  crowned  with  batteries  and  shutting  in  the  Eastern  Passage ;  the 
outer  harbor,  with  its  fortified  points,  and  the  ocean  beyond. 

Near  the  portal  of  the  citadel  is  an  outer  battery  of  antiquated  guns ;  and  at  the 
S.  end  of  the  glacis  are  the  cxteuEive  barracks  of  the  Royid  Artillery.  Other  mili- 
tary quarters  are  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Citadel. 

"But  if  you  cast  your  eyes  over  yonder  magnificent  bay,  where  vessels  bearing 
flags  of  all  nations  are  at  anchor,  and  then  let  your  vision  sweep  pa£t  and  over  the 
isl^ds  to  the  outlets  beyond,  where  the  quiet  ocean  lies,  bordered  with  fog-banks 
tliat  loom  ominously  at  the  boundary-line  of  the  horizon,  you  will  see  a  picture  of 
marvellous  beauty ;  for  the  coast  scenery  here  transcends  our  own  sea-shores,  both 
in  color  and  outline.  And  behind  us  again  stretch  large  green  plains,  dotted  with 
cottages,  and  bounded  with  undulating  hills,  with  now  and  then  glimpses  of  blue 


pe 


In 


HALIFAX.' 


Jtoute  IB.      97 


irater ;  and  m  ire  w»lk  down  Citadel  Hill,  m  Ibel  lialf  reconciled  to  Halllkx,  ill 

qualDt  mouldy  old  gables,  its  soldiers  and  sailon,  its  fogs,  cabs,  penny  and  YiMit- 
penny  tokens,  and  all  its  little,  odd,  outlandish  pocullarities."    (CfozzENS.) 

Lower  Water  St.  borders  the  harbor-front,  and  gives  access  to  the 
wharves  of  the  various  steamship  and  packet  lines.  It  runs  from  the 
Ordnance  Yard,  at  the  foot  of  Buckingham  St.,  to  the  Government  reser- 
vation near  George  Island,  and  presents  a  remarkably  dingy  and  dilapi> 
dated  appearance  throughout  its  entire  length. 

The  Qaeen's  Dockyard  occupies  ^  M.  of  the  shore  of  the  upper  harbor, 
and  is  surrounded  on  the  landward  side  by  a  high  stone-wall.  It  contains 
the  usual  paraphernalia  of  a  first-class  navy-yard,  —  storehouses,  machine- 
shops,  docks,  arsenals,  a  hospital,  and  a  line  of  officers*  quarters.  It  is 
much  used  by  the  frigates  of  the  British  navy,  both  to  repair  and  to  refit, 
and  the  visitor  may  generally  see  here  two  or  three  vessels  of  Her  Britan- 
nic Majesty. 

The  Dockyard  was  founded  in  1758,  and  received  great  additions  (including  the 

{>reseDt  v  .1*)  in  1770.  During  the  two  great  wars  with  the  United  States  it  waa 
nvaluable  as  a  station  for  the  royal  navy,  whose  fleets  thence  di^scended  upon  the 
American  coast.  Many  trophies  of  the  war  of  1812  were  kept  here  (as  similar  marine 
mementos  of  another  nation  are  kept  in  the  Brooklyn  and  Washington  Navy-Yards), 
including  the  figure-bead  of  the  unfortunate  American  frigate,  the  Chesapeake. 
which  was  captured  in  1813,  off  Boston  Harbor,  by  the  British  frigate  Shannon,  ami. 
was  brought  into  Halifax  with  great  rejoicing.  It  is,  perhaps,  in  kindly  recognition 
of  the  new  fraternity  of  the  Anglo-American  nations,  that  the  Imperial  Qovemment 
has  lately  caused  these  invidious  emblems  of  strife  to  be  removed. 

The  Dockyard  is  not  open  to  the  public,  but  the  superintendent  will  generally 
admit  visitors  upon  presentation  of  their  cards. 

In  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  city,  near  the  foot  of  Citadel  Hill,  is  the 
Military  Hospital,  before  which  is  the  Garrison  Chapel,  a  plain  wooden 
building  on  whose  inner  walls  are  many  mural  tablets  in  memory  of  offi- 
cers who  have  died  on  this  station.  Beyond  this  point,  Brunswick  St. 
runs  N.  W.  by  the  Church  of  the  Redeemer  to  St.  George's  Churchy  a  sin- 
gular wooden  building  of  a  circular  form.  At  the  comer  of  Brunswick 
and  Gerrish  Sts.  is  a  cemetery,  in  which  stands  a  quaint  little  church 
dating  from  1761,  havuig  been  erected  by  one  of  the  first  companies  of 
German  immigrants. 

On  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Church  of  St.  Joseph,  where  the  Catholic  seamen 
of  the  fleet  attend  mass  on  Sunday  at  9^  a.  m.  Near  this  building  is  the 
Orphan  Asylum  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 

Farther  N.  on  Gottingen  St.  is  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  beyond 
which,  on  North  St.,  is  the  Roman  Catliolic  College  of  St.  Mary,  at  Belle 
Air.  This  institution  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Christian  Brothers,  and 
has  the  same  line  of  studies  as  an  American  high-school.  Farther  out  on 
Gottingen  St.  is  the  Admiralty  House,  the  official  residence  of  the  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  North-American  and  West-Indian  Squadrons,  be- 
yond which  are  the  Wellington  Barracks,  over  the  Richmond  railway- 
station.  From  the  plateau  on  which  the  secluded  Admiralty  House  is 
5  a 


98      lUntte  19. 


•HALIFAX. 


located,  the  visitor  can  look  down  on  the  Queen*s  Dockyard,  the  fleet, 
and  the  inner  harbor. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Mary  is  on  the  Spring  Garden 
Road,  near  its  intersection  with  Pleasant  St.  It  has  recently  been  much 
enlarged  and  improved  by  the  addition  of  an  elegant  granite  facade  and 
spire,  in  florid  Gothic  architecture.  The  Cathedral  fronts  on  an  old  and 
honored  cemetery,  on  whose  E.  side  is  a  finely  conceived  *  monument  to 
Welsford  and  Parker,  the  Nova-Scotian  heroes  of  the  Crimean  War. 
(Miyor  Welsford  was  killed  in  the  storming  of  the  Redan.)  It  consists  of 
a  small  but  massive  arch  of  brownstone,  standing  on  a  broad  granite  base, 
and  supporting  a  statue  of  the  British  lion.  Opposite  the  cemetery,  on 
Pleasant  St.,  is  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  St.  Matthew  (under  the  care 
of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Laing).  Above  the  Cathedral,  on  the  Spring  Garden 
Road,  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Court  House,  well  situated  amid 
open  grounds,  near  the  jail  and  the  capacious  drill-sheds. 

The  Horticultural  Gardens  are  on  the  Spring  Garden  Road,  and  are  well 
arranged  and  cared  for.  They  were  purchased  by  the  city  in  September, 
1874,  and  were  then  united  with  the  Public  Gardens,  which  are  just  S.  of 
Citadel  Hill.  Military  music  is  given  here  by  the  garrison  bands  during 
the  summer.  Near  the  Gardens  is  the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  a 
stately  building  situated  in  pleasant  grounds.  The  Protestant  Cemetery 
adjoins  the  Horticultural  Gardens  on  the  W.,  and  contains  a  great  number 
of  monuments.  In  the  same  quarter  of  the  city,  below  Morris  St.,  are  the 
new  Blind  Asylum,  the  City  Hospital,  and  till  lately  the  immense  Poor 
Asylum,  completed  at  a  cost  of  $  260,000,  and  recently  burned. 

The  Oovernment  Honse  is  a  short  distance  beyond  St.  Matthew's 
Ghnrch,  on  Pleasant  St.,  and  is  the  ojf^cial  residence  of  the  Lieutenant- 
CU)vemor  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  is  a  plain  and  massive  rid  stone  building, 
with  projecting  wings,  and  is  nearly  surrounded  by  trees.  Farther  S  ,  on 
Morris  St.,  is  the  Anglican  Cathedral  of  St.  Luke,  a  plain  and  homely 
wooden  building.  Beyond  this  point  are  the  pretty  wooden  churches  and 
villas  which  extend  toward  Point  Pleasant. 

At  the  foot  of  South  St.  are  the  Ordnance  Grounds,  from  whose  wharf  the  lower 
harbor  is  overlooked.  About  1,800  ft.  distant  ia  George's  Island,  on  which  is 
a  powerful]  modem  fortress,  bearing  a  heavy  armament  from  which  immense  chilled- 
Iron  or  steel-pointed  shot  could  be  hurled  against  a  hostile  fleet.  This  position  ia 
the  key  to  the  harbor,  and  converges  its  fire  with  that  of  Fort  Clarence,  a  low  but 
massive  casemated  work,  1  M.  S.  E.  on  the  Dartmouth  shore,  whose  guns  could 
sweep  the  Eastern  Passage  and  the  inner  harbor.  The  passage  from  the  outer  har- 
bor  is  defended  b^  the  York  Redoubt,  near  Sandwich  Point,  by  a  new  line  of  bat- 
teries on  the  N.  W.  shore  of  McNab's  Island,  and  by  the  forts  on  Point  Pleasant. 

At  the  comer  of  Prince  and  Barrington  Sts.  is  St.  Paul's  Episcopal 
Church,  a  plain  and  spacious  old  building  (built  in  1750),  with  numerous 
mural  tablets  on  the  inner  walls.  Dalhousie  College  and  University  is  at 
the  comer  of  Duke  and  Barrington  Sts.,  and  was  founded  by  the  Enrl  of 
Dalhousie  while  he  was  Govemor>General  of  Canada.    Its  design  was  to 


HALIFAX. 


Jioute  19.       99 


provide  means  for  the  liberal  education  of  young  men  who  did  not  wish  to 
go  (or  were  debarred  from  going)  to  King's  College,  at  Windsor.  There 
are  7  professors  in  the  academic  department,  and  the  medical  school  has 
18  professors. 

In  the  sammer  of  1746  the  great  French  Armada  sailed  fW)m  Brest  to  conquer  the 
British  North-American  coast  from  Virginia  to  Newfoundland.  It  was  commanded 
by  the  Duke  d'AnTillc,and  was  composed  of  the  line-of-battle  ships  Trithnt,  Ardent, 
Mars,  and  Alcide,  64  guns  each  ;  the  Northumberland,  Carillon,  Tigre,  Leofiard,  and 
Renomm6e,^  guns  each;  the  Diaviant,  50;  Megire,  30;  Argonaute,^;  Prince 
'  d?  Orange,  26 ;  the  Par/ait,  Mercure,  Palme,  Girous,  Perle,  and  22  other  frigates, 
with  30  transports,  carrying  an  army  of  3,150  soldiers.  D'Anville's  orders  were  to 
*'  occupy  Louisbourg,  to  reduce  Nova  Scotia,  to  destroy  Boston,  and  ravage  the 
coast  of  New  England."  Tlie  Armada  was  dispersed,  however,  by  a  succession  of 
unparalleled  and  disastrous  storms,  and  D'Anviilo  reached  Ghebucto  Bay  (Halifax) 
on  Sept.  10,  with  only  2  ships  of  the  line  and  a  few  transports.  Six  days  later  the 
unfortunate  Duke  died  of  apoplexy,  induced  by  grief  and  distress  on  account  of  the 
disasters  which  his  enterprise  had  suffered.  The  Tice-Admiral  D'Estoumelle  com- 
mitted suicide  a  few  days  later.  Some  other  vessels  now  arrived  here,  and  immense 
barracks  were  erected  along  the  Bedford  Basin.  1,200  men  had  died  from  scurvy  on 
the  outward  voyage,  and  the  camps  were  soon  turned  into  hospitals.  Over  1,000 
French  soldiers  and  2-300  Micmac  Indians  died  around  the  Basin  and  were  buried 
near  its  quiet  waters.  Oct.  13,  the  French  fleet,  numbering  5  ships  of  the  line 
and  25  frigates  and  transports,  sailed  from  Halifax,  intending  to  attack  Annapolis 
Royal ;  but  another  terrible  storm  arose,  while  the  vessels  were  off  Cape  Sable,  and 
scattered  the  remains  of  the  Armada  in  zach  wide  confusion  that  they  were  obliged 
to  retire  from  the  American  waters. 

The  Indians  called  Halifax  harbr^  Chebucto,  meaning  "the  chief  haven,"  and  the 
French  named  it  Lm  Bale  Saine,  ''on  account  of  the  salubrity  of  the  air.*' 

In  the  year  1748  the  British  Lords  of  Trade,  incited  by  the  people  of  Massachu- 
setts, determined  to  found  a  city  on  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  partly  in  prospect  of 
commercial  advantages,  and  partly  to  keep  the  Acadians  in  check.  Parliament 
voted  £40,000  for  this  purpose;  and  on  June  21,  1749,  a  fleet  of  13  transports 
and  the  sloop-of-war  Sphinx  arrived  in  the  designated  harbor,  l>earing  2,876  colo- 
nists (of  whom  over  1,500  were  men).  The  city  was  laid  out  in  July ,  and  was  named 
in  honor  of  George  Montagu,  Earl  of  Halifax,  the  head  of  the  Lords  of  Trade.  The 
Acadians  and  the  Indians  soon  sent  in  ^heir  submission ;  but  in  1751  the  suburb  of 
Dartmouth  was  attacked  at  night  by  the  la<-.ter ,  and  many  of  its  citizens  were  massacred. 
600  Germans  settled  here  in  1751  -  52,  bu  j  it  was  found  difficult  to  preserve  the  col- 
ony, since  so  many  of  its  citizens  passed  over  to  the  New-England  Provinces.  The  great 
fleets  and  armies  of  Loudon  and  Wolfe  concentrated  here  before  advancing  against 
Louisbourg  and  Quel)ec ;  and  the  city  afterwards  grew  in  importance  as  a  uavfU  sta- 
tion. Representative  government  was  established  in  1758,  and  the  Parliament  of 
1770  remained  in  session  for  14  years,  while  Halifax  was  made  one  of  the  chief  sta- 
tions whence  the  royal  forces  were  directed  upon  the  insurgent  American  colonie§. 
After  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  many  thousands  of  exiled  Loyalists  took 
refuge  here ;  and  the  wooden  walls  and  towers  with  which  the  city  had  been  forti- 
fied were  replaced  with  more  formidable  defences  by  Prince  Edward. 

The  ancient  palisade-wall  included  the  space  between  the  present  Salter,  Barring- 
ton,  and  Jacob  Streets,  and  the  harbor ;  and  its  citadel  was  the  small  Government 
House,  on  the  site  of  the  present  Parliament  Building,  which  was  surrounded  with 
hogsheads  filled  with  sand,  over  which  light  cannons  were  displayed. 

The  growth  of  Halifax  during  the  present  century  has  been  very  slow,  in  view  of 
its  great  commercial  advantages  and  possibilities.  The  presence  of  larg^  bodies  of 
troops,  and  the  semi-military  regime  of  a  garrison-town,  have  had  a  certain  effect  in 
deadening  the  energy  of  the  citizens.  Great  sums  of  money  were,  however,  made 
here  during  the  American  civil  war,  when  the  sympathies  of  the  Haligonians  were 
warmly  enlisted  Jji  $w'qi^  of  th^  revolted^  State^i^and  many  blockade-runners  sailed 
hence  to  reap  ricre  Ifa^veita  in  WiiV  Sftuthern  iv)»ts.*  "The  ccs^a^ibft  of  the  war  put  a 
stop  to  this  lucraHve-iild});  bjiiitis  flo\«^h(<(ptt(i:  ttiat^^becAmiJletion  of  the  Inter- 
colonial Railway  to -Su^Joku*  and  •Quebeotwiil  <grraklor  benefit.  ITalififcx.  There  is  a 
rivalry  between  St.  John  and  Halifax  which  resembles  that  l>etween  Oliicago  and  St. 
Louis,  and  l^id&  tc'sim)l4c  .{btkjuaiistiffttaufnal^ents;  "  8t(  Majx\tMax»  that  she  ha* 


•  k  •  •  « 


•  b      «    «    >)  ' 


100      Route  iO.    THE  ENVIBONS  OF  HALIFAX. 


a  flnt-clam  hotel  and  a  theatre,  which  Halifbx  has  not ;  and  the  NoTa-Scotian  eity 
answers,  in  return,  that  she  has  the  best  cricket-club  and  the  champion  oarsnum  of 
America. 

Sir  William  Fenwick  Williams,  of  Kara,  Bart.,  K.  G.  B.,  B.C.  L.,  was  bom  atHali- 
fitx  in  1800.  After  serving  in  Ceylon,  Turkey, and  Persia,  ho  instructed  the  Moslem 
artillery,  and  fortified  the  city  ofKars.  Here  he  was  besieged  by  the  Russians,  under 
Gen.  MouraTieflf.  He  defeated  the  enemy  near  the  city,  but  was  forced  to  surrender 
after  a  heroic  defence  of  six  months,  boiug  a  sacrifice  to  British  diplomacy.  He  was 
afterwards  Commander  of  the  Forces  in  Canada. 

Admiral  Sir  Provo  Wallis  was  born  at  Halifax  in  1791,  and  was  early  engaged  in 
the  great  battle  between  the  Cleopatra,  32,  and  the  French  Ville  de  Milan,  46.  He 
afterwards  served  on  the  Curieux,  the  Gloire,  and  the  Shannon,  to  whose  command 
he  succeeded  after  the  battle  with  the  Chesapeake. 


■ 


20.   The  Environs  of  Halifax. 

The  favorite  drive  from  Halifax  is  to  the  Four-Mile  House,  and  along 
the  shores  of  the  *  Bedford  Basin.  This  noble  sheet  of  water  is  5  M.  long 
and  1  -  8  M.  wide,  with  from  8  to  86  fathoms  of  depth.  It  is  entered  by- 
way of  the  Narrows,  a  passage  2^-8  M.  long  and  i  M.  wide,  leading  from 
Halifax  Harbor.  It  is  bordered  on  all  sides  by  bold  hills  200-330  ft.  i^ 
height,  betwcci^  which  are  10  square  miles  of  secure  anchoring-ground. 
The  village  of  Bedford  is  on  the  W.  shore,  and  has  several  summer  hotels 
(Bellevue,  Bedford,  etc.).  The  steamer  Goliah  leaves  Halifax  for  Bedford 
at  11  A.  M.  and  2  p.  m.  daily.  During  the  summer  the  light  vessels  of  the 
Royal  Halifax  Ya<'.ht  Club  are  seen  in  the  Basin  daily ;  and  exciting  rowing- 
matches  sometimes  come  off  near  the  Four-Mile  House. 

Along  the  shores  of  the  Bedford  Basin  were  the  mournful  camps  and  hospitab  of 
the  French  Armada,  in  1740,  and  1,300  men  were  buried  there.  Their  rcmainc  wcro 
found  by  subsequent  settlers.  The  first  permanent  colonies  along  theso  shores  were- 
made  by  Massachusetts  Loyalists  in  1784. 

Hammond^ s  Plains  arc  7  M.  W.  of  Bedford,  and  were  settled  in  1S15  by  slaves 
brought  away  from  the  shores  of  Maryland  and  Virginia  by  the  British  fleets.  This 
Is,  like  the  other  villages  of  freed  blacks  throughout  the  Province,  dirty  and  dilapi- 
dated to  the  last  degree.  To  the  N.  W.  is  the  Pockuwck  Lake,  4  M.  long,  with  di- 
versified shores,  and  abounding  in  trout. 

*'  The  road  to  Point  Pleasant  is  a  favorite  promenade  in  the  long  Acadian 
twilights.  Midway  between  the  city  and  the  Point  lies  '  Kissing  Bridge,' 
which  the  Halifax  maidens  sometimes  pass  over.  Who  gathers  toll  nobody 
knows,  but  —  " 

Point  Pleasant  projects  between  the  harbor  and  the  N.  W.  Arm,  and  is 
covered  with  pretty  groves  of  evergreen  trees,  threaded  by  narrow  roads, 
and  now  being  laid  out  for  a  public  park.  The  principal  fortification  is 
Fort  Ogilvie,  a  gan'isoned  post,  whose  artillery  commands  the  channel. 
A  short  distance  to  the  W.  is  the  antiquated  structure  called  the  Prince  of 
Walea^s  Tower,  from  which  fine  views  are  afforded.  The  Point  Pleasant 
Battery  is  near  iJie^  water's  Oigp,  ;a»tl' irf  •iiften(?e4  t(5<  h^feep  the  outer 
passage.  "*  '    '  "    ■•  "'.  y  *   I   •    /  '    ,'''''"' 

The  NorthwMt  AVin' is  4  M.  long  and 'jl  M.  wide,  and  is  a  river-liko 
inlet,  which  nids'N.  W^frbfo  tb»1iai*b<)t',to  waUh:2  St.'of  i^e  B^ford  Bashi. 


DARTMOUTH. 


Moute  91.      101 


Its  shores  are  high  and  picturesque,  and  on  the  Halifax  side  are  several 
fine  mansions,  surrounded  by  ornamental  grounds.  In  the  upper  part  of 
the  Arm  is  Melville  fslanclj  where  American  prisoners  were  kept  during 
the  War  of  1812.  Ferguson's  Cove  is  a  picturesque  village  on  the  N.  W. 
Arm,  inhabited  chiefly  by  fishermen  and  pilots. 

The  steamer  Micmac  makes  regular  trips  during  the  summer  up  the 
N.  W.  Arm,  and  to  McNaVs  Island,  which  is  3  M.  long,  and  has  a  sum- 
mer hotel  and  some  heavy  military  works.  The  Micmac  leaves  the  South 
Ferry  Wharf  at  10  a.  m.  and  12,  and  2  and  3  p.  m. 

Dartmouth  {Acadian  House)  is  situated  on  the  harbor,  opposite  the  city 
of  Halifax,  to  which  a  steam  ferry-boat  makes  frequent  trips.  It  has  sev- 
eral pretty  villas  belonging  to  Halifax  merchants;  and  at  about  ^  M.  from 
the  village  is  the  spaciou!)  and  imposing  building  of  the  Mount  Hope  Asylum 
for  the  Insane,  a  long,  castellated  granite  building  which  overlooks  the 
harbor.  Dartmouth  has  4,358  inhabitants  and  5  churches,  and  derives 
prosperity  from  the  working  of  several  foundries  and  steam-tanneries.  It 
is  also  the  seat  of  the  Chebucto  Marine  Railway.  This  town  was  founded 
in  1750,  but  was  soon  afterwards  destroyed,  with  some  of  its  people,  by  the 
Indians.  '  "'T84  it  was  reoccupied  by  men  of  Nantucket  who  preferred 
royalism  te]mblicanism.  The  Montague  Gold-Mines  are  4  M.  from 
Dartmomli,  and  have  yielded  in  paying  quantities.  Cow  Bay  is  a  few  miles 
S.  E.  of  Dartmouth,  and  is  much  visited  in  summer,  on  account  of  its  fine 
marine  scenery  and  the  facilities  for  bathing.  The  Dartmouth  Lakes  com- 
mence within  1  M.  of  the  town,  and  were  formerly  a  favorite  resort  of 
sportsmen,  but  are  now  nearly  fished  out. 


md  is 
'oads, 
on  is 
mnel. 
ceof 
asant 
outer 

-like 
asin. 


" 


2L   The  Basin  of  Minas.— Hali&x  to  St.  John. 

Halifax  to  Windsor,  see  Route  18  (in  reverse). 

Ttie  steamboat-route  from  Windsor  to  8t.  John  is  here  described.  This  line  has 
been  withdrawn,  but  may  be  replaced.  The  Evangeline  and  other  boats  cruise  on 
the  Basin,  and  the  description  given  below  may  serve  for  characterizing  the  various 
porta. 

As  the  steamer  moves  out  from  her  wharf  at  Windsor,  a  pleasiot  view 
is  afforded  of  the  old  college  town  astern,  with  the  farming  village  of  Fal- 
mouth on  the  1.,  and  shipbuilding  Newport  on  the  r.,  beyond  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Croix  River.  The  shores  are  high  and  ridgy,  and  the  mouth  of 
the  Kennetcook  River  is  passed  (on  the  r.)  about  5  M.  below  Windsor. 
2-8  M.  below  is  Hantsport  (1.  bank),  a  thriving  marine  village  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Cockmigon  River.  On  Horton  Bluff  (1.  bank)  is  a  light- 
house which  sustains  a  powerful  fixed  white  light,  visible  for  20  M.,  and 
beyond  this  point  the  steamer  enters  the  *  Basin  of  Minas.  On  the  1.  are 
the  low  ridges  of  Long  Island  and  Boot  Island,  rising  on  the  margin  of  a 
wide  and  verdant  meadow.  The  meadow  is  Grand  Pr6,  the  land  of 
Evangeline  (see  Route  22).   Mile  after  mile  the  fertile  plains  of  Cornwallis 


102      Route  it 


CAPE  BLOMIDON. 


open  on  the  1.,  bounded  by  the  Horton  hills  and  the  dark  line  of  the  North 
Mt.  In  advance  is  the  bold  and  clear-cut  outline  of  Cape  Blomidon, 
brooding  over  the  water,  and  on  the  r.  are  the  low  but  well-defined  bluffs 
of  Chiviriet  rich  in  gypsum  and  limestone.  It  is  about  22  M.  from  the 
mouth  of  tho  Avon  to  Parrsboro',  and  the  course  of  the  steamer  continu- 
ally approaches  Blomidon. 

Cape  Bilomidon  is  a  vast  precipice  of  rvd  sandstone  of  the  Triassic  era,  with 
Strong  Diaries  of  volcanic  action.  *'  The  dark  basaltic  wall,  covered  with  thick 
woods,  the  terrace  of  amygdaloid,  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  light-green  shrubs 
and  >oung  trees  that  rapidly  spring  up  on  its  rich  and  moist  surtuce,  the  precipice 
of  bright  n  d  sandstone,  always  clean  and  fresh,  and  contracting  strongly  with  the 
trap  above,  ....  constitute  a  coDibination  of  forms  and  colors  equally  striking,  if 
seen  in  the  distance  from  the  hills  of  Horton  or  Parrsboro',  or  more  nearly  from 
the  sea  or  t  le  stony  beach  at  its  base.  Blonidon  is  a  scene  never  to  be  forgotten  by 
a  traveller  who  has  wandered  around  its  shores  or  clambered  on  its  giddy  preci- 
pices."' Th}  cape  is  about  670  ft.  high;  and  presents  an  interesting  sight  when  its 
dark-red  summit  is  peering  above  the  white  sea-fogs.  Sir  William  Lyell,  the  emi- 
nent British  geologist,  made  a  careful  study  of  the  phenomena  of  tliis  vicinity. 

The  Indian  legend  says  that  Blomidon  was  made  by  the  divine  Glooscap,  who 
broke  the  grea,t  beaver-dam  off  this  shore  and  swung  its  end  around  into  its  present 
•position.  Afterwards  he  crossed  to  the  new-made  cape  and  strewed  its  slopes  with 
tha  gems  that  arc  found  there  to-day,  carrying  thence  a  set  of  rare  ornaments  for 
his  <:ncient  and  mysterious  female  companion.  The  beneficent  chief  broke  away  the 
beaver-dam  becaikse  it  was  flooding  all  the  Cornwallis  Valley,  and  in  his  conflict  with 
the  Great  Beaver  he  threw  at  him  huge  masses  of  rock  and  earth,  which  are  the 
present  Five  T^lands.  W.  of  Utkogimrheech  (Blomidon)  the  end  of  the  dam  swept 
around  and  became  Pleegun  (Cape  Split). 

As  Blomidon  is  left  on  the  port  beam,  the  steamer  hurries  across  the 
rapid  currents  of  the  outlet  of  tlie  Basin.  In  front  is  seen  the  white  vil- 
lage of  Parrsboro',  backed  by  the  dark  undulations  of  the  Cobequid  Mts. 
Just  before  reaching  Parrsboro'  the  vessel  approaches  and  passes  Par- 
tridge Island  (on  the  1.),  a  singular  insulated  hill  260  ft.  high,  and  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  at  low  tide  by  a  narrow  beach. 

Pt  tridge  Island  was  the  Pulowech  Munegoo  of  the  Micmacs,  and  was  a  fhvorite 
locatio:'  for  legends  of  Glooscap.  On  his  last  great  journey  from  Newfoundland  by 
Pictou  through  Acadia  and  into  the  unknown  West,  he  built  a  grand  road  ttoxa 
Fort  Cumberland  to  this  shore  for  the  use  of  his  weary  companions.  This  miracu- 
lously formed  ridge  is  now  occupied  by  the  post-road  to  the  N.  W.,  and  is  called  by 
the  Indians  Oiowokun  (iha  causeway).  At  Partridge  Island  Glooscap  had  his  cel- 
ebrated revel  with  the  supernatural  Kit-poos-e-ag-unow,  the  deliverer  of  all  op- 
pressed, who  was  taken  out  alive  from  his  mother  (slain  by  a  giant),  was  thrown 
into  a  well,  and,  being  miraculously  preserved  there,  came  forth  in  due  time  to  fulfil 
his  high  duty  to  men.  These  marvellous  friends  went  out  on  the  Busin  in  a  stone 
canoe  to  fish  by  torchlight,  and,  after  cruising  over  the  dark  waters  for  some  time, 
speared  a  monstrous  whale.  They  tossed  him  into  the  canoe  '*  as  though  he  were  a 
trout,"  and  made  for  the  shore,  where,  in  their  brotherly  feast,  the  whale  was  en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrflboro'  (two  inns)  is  prettilj  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  river, 
and  under  the  shelter  of  Partridge  Island.  It  has  about  900  inhabitants, 
with  three  churches,  and  is  engaged  in  the  lumber-trade.  The  beauty  of 
the  situation  and  the  viewf.,  together  with  the  sporting  facilities  in  the 
back-country,  have  made  Parrsboi'o'  a  pleasure  resort  of  considerable  re- 
pute, and  the  neat  hotel  called  the  Summer  House  is  well  patronized.  This 
is  one  of  the  best  points  from  which  to  enter  the  fine  hunting  and  fishing 


PARRSBORO*. 


Route  tl.      103 


districts  of  Gnmberland  County,  and  gaides  and  outfits  may  be  seenred 
here.  Amherst  (see  page  78}  is  86  M.  distant,  by  highways  following  the 
valleys  of  the  Parrsboro'  and  Maccau  Rivers. 

"  Parrsboro'  enjoys  more  than  its  share  of  broad,  grsvelly  beach,  overhung  with 
elifted  and  woody  bluffs.  One  fresh  ftom  the  dead  walls  of  a  great  city  would  be  de* 
lighted  with  the  sylvan  shores  of  Parrsboro'.  The  beach,  with  all  its  breadth,  a 
miracle  of  pebbly  beauty,  slants  steeply  to  the  surf,  which  is  now  rolling  up  in  curl- 
ing clouds  of  green  and  white.  Here  we  turn  westward  into  the  great  bay  itself, 
going  with  a  tide  that  rushes  like  a  mighty  river  toward  a  cataract,  whirling,  boil- 
ing, breaking  in  half-moons  of  crispy  foam."  (L.  L.  Noble.) 

''  Pleasant  Parrsboro',  with  its  green  hills,  neat  cottages,  and  sloping  shores  laved 
by  the  sea  when  the  tide  is  full,  but  wearing  quite  a  different  aspect  when  the  tide 
goes  out ;  for  then  it  is  left  perched  thirty  feet  high  upon  a  red  clay  bluff,  and  the 
fishing-boats  which  were  afloat  before  are  careened  upon  their  beam  ends,  high  and 
dry  out  of  water.  The  long  massive  pier  at  which  the  steamboat  lately  landed, 
lifts  up  its  naked  bulk  of  tree-nailed  lo^.  reeking  with  green  oosgeand  sea-weed ;  and 
a  high  conical  island  which  constitutes  the  chief  feature  of  the  landscape  is  trans- 
formed into  a  bold  promontory,  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  huge  ridge  of 
bi'ick-red  clay."    (Hallock.) 

Gentlemen  who  are  interested  in  geological  studies  will  have  a  raiv  chance  to  make 
'•collections  about  Parrsboro'  and  the  shores  of  Minas.  The  most  Kivorable  time  is 
when  the  bluffs  have  been  cracked  and  scaled  by  recent  frosts  ;-or  just  after  the  close 
of  the  winter,  when  much  fresh  ddbri^  is  found  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs.  Among  the 
minerals  on  Partridge  Island  are :  analcime,  apophyllite,  amethyst,  agate,  apatite, 
calcite  (abundant,  in  yellow  crystals),  chabazite,  chalcedony,  cat's-eye,  gypsum, 
hematite,  heulandite,  magnetite,  sMlbite  (very  abundant),  jasper,  cacholong,  opal, 
semi-opal,  and  gold-bearing  quartz.  About  Cape  Blomidon  are  found  analcime, 
agate,  amethyst,  apophyllite,  calcite,  chalcedony,  chabazite-gmelinite,  ikroelite, 
hematite,  magnetite,  heulandite,  laumonite,  fibrous  gypsum,  malachite,  mesolite, 
native  copper,  natrolite,  stilbite,  psilomelane,  and  quartz.  Obsidian,  malachite,  gold, 
and  coppler  are  found  at  Cape  d'Or ;  jasper  and  fine  quartz  crystals,  on  Spencer'i 
Island ;  augite,  amianthus,  pyrites,  and  wad,  at  Parrsboro' ;  and  both  at  Five  Islands 
and  Scotsman's  Bay  there  are  beautiful  specimens  of  moss  agate.  At  Gomwallis 
is  found  the  rare  mineral  called  Wichtisite  (resembling  obsidian,  in  gray  and  deep 
blue  colors),  which  is  only  known  in  one  other  place  on  earth,  at  Wichtis,  in  Fin- 
land. The  purple  and  violet  quartz,  or  amethyst,  of  the  Minas  shores,  is  of  great 
beauty  and  value.  A  Blomidon  amethyst  is  in  the  crown  of  France,  and  it  is  now 
270  years  since  the  Sieur  de  Monts  carried  several  large  amethysts  ftom  Partridge 
Island  to  Henri  IT.  of  France.  These  gems  are  generally  found  in  geodes,  or  after 
fresh  falls  of  trap-rock. 

Advocate  Harbor  and  Cape  d'  Or. 

A  daily  stage  runs  W.  from  Parrsboro'  through  grand  coast  scenery,  for 
28  M.,  passing  the  hamlets  of  Fox  Harbor  and  Port  Greville,  aud  stop- 
ping at  Advocate  Harbor.  This  is  a  sequestered  marine  hamlet,  devoted 
to  shipbuilding  and  the  deep-sea  fisheries,  and  has  about  600  inhabitants. 
It  if  about  60  M.  from  Amherst,  by  a  road  leading  across  the  Cobequid 
Mts.  and  through  Apple  River  (see  page  80).  Some  of  the  finest  marine 
scenery  in  the  Provinces  is  in  this  vicinity.  8-4  M.  S.  is  the  immense 
rocky  peninsula  of  *  Gape  d'Or,  almost  cut  off  from  the  mainland  by  a  deep 
ravine,  in  whose  bottom  the  salt  tides  fiow.  Cape  d'Or  is  500  ft.  high,  and 
has  recently  become  noted  for  its  rich  copper  deposits.  Off"  this  point  there 
is  a  heavy  rip  on  the  fiood-tide,  which  flows  with  a  velocity  of  6  knots  an 
hour,  and  rises  88  -  89  ft.    8  M.  W.  of  Advocate  Harbor,  and  visible  av  toss 


104     Route  ei 


BASIN  OF  MII)AS. 


the  open  bay,  is  *  Cape  Ohigneeto,  a  wonderful  headland  of  rack,  780  -  800 
It.  high,  running  down  sheer  into  the  deep  waters.  This  mountain-pirom- 
ontory  marlis  the  division  of  the  currents  of  the  Minas  and  Chignecto 
Channels. 

Cape  d'Or  is  sometimes  called  Cap  Dori  on  the  ancient  maps,  and  recdved  its 
name  on  account  of  the  copper  ore  which  was  found  here  by  the  early  French  ex- 
plorers, and  was  supposed  to  be  gold.  The  Acadians  afterwards  opened  mines  here, 
and  the  name,  Les  Mines,  originally  applied  to  a  part  of  this  shore,  was  given  to  the 
noble  salt-water  lake  to  the  £.  Minas  is  either  an  English  modification  or  the 
Spanish  equivalent  thereof  Gape  d'Or  was  granted  to  the  Duke  of  Chandos  many 
years  ago,  but  he  did  not  continue  the  mining  operations. 


After  leaving  Parrsboro'  the  steamer  runs  W.  through  the  passage  be- 
tween Cape  Blomidon  and  Cape  Sharp,  which  is  8|^  M.  wide,  and  is  swept 
by  the  tide  at  the  rate  of  6-8  knots  an  hour.  On  the  r.  the  ravines  of 
Diligent  River  and  Fox  River  break  the  iron-bound  coasts  of  Cumberland 
County;  and  on  the  1.  is  a  remarkable  promontory,  7  M.  long  and  1  M. 
wide,  with  an  altitude  of  400  feet,  running  W.  from  Blomidon  between 
the  channel  and  the  semicircular  bight  of  Scotsman's  Bay.  Cnpe  Split 
is  the  end  of  th^s  sea-dividing  mountain,  beyond  which  the  S.  shores 
fall  suddenly  away,  and  the  steamer  enters  the  Minas  Channel.  12  M. 
beyond  Cape  Split,  Spencer^s  Island  and  Cape  Spencer  are  passed  on  the 
N.,  beyond  which  are  the  massive  cliffs  of  Cape  d'Or.  On  the  1.  are  the 
unvarying  ridges  of  the  North  Mt.,  with  obscure  fishing-hamlets  along 
the  shore.  To  the  N.  the  frowning  mass  of  Cape  Chignecto  is  seen ;  and 
the  course  passes  within  sight  of  the  lofty  and  lonely  rock  of  Jsle  Haute^ 
which  is  7  M.  from  the  nearest  shore.  It  is  1^  M.  long  and  850  ft.  high, 
and  is  exactly  intersected  by  the  parallel  of  65°  W.  from  Greenwich. 

The  steamer  now  passes  down  over  the  open  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 
St.  John  is  about  62  nautical  miles  from  Isle  Haute,  in  a  straight  line,  and 
is  a  little  N.  of  W.  from  that  point,  but  the  exigencies  of  navigation  re- 
quire a  course  considerably  longer  and  more  southerly.  This  portion  of 
the  route  is  usually  traversed  at  night,  and  soon  after  passing  the  powerful 
first-class  red  revolving-light  on  Cape  Spencer  (New  Brunswick),  the  steamer 
runs  in  by  the  Partridge-Island  light,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  St.  John 
about  the  break  of  day. 

St.  John,  see  page  15. 

The  Basin  of  Minas. 

The  steamer  Evangeline  leaves  Parrsboro'  daily,  for  the  villages  on  the  N.  and 
B.  shores  of  the  Basiu  of  Minas.  As  the  times  of  her  departure  are  very  irregular, 
owing  to  the  necessity  of  following  the  tide,  and  her  landings  vary  accoriliag  to  cir- 
cumfltances,  the  following  account  relates  to  the  line  of  the  coast  rather  than  to  her 
route.  She  is  announced  to  call  at  Parrsboro',  Londonderry,  Maitland,  Kingsport, 
Summerville,  and  Windsor. 

Soon  after  leaving  Parrsboro',  Frazer*8  Head  is  passed  on  the  I.,  with 
its  cliffs  elevated  nearly  400  feet  above  the  water.    About  16  M.  E.  of 


i 


BASIN  OF  MINAS. 


MotUe  tJ.      105 


land 

ilor, 

cir- 

ber 

3rt, 

rith 
of 


i    i 


I 


FarrsbOTo'  are  the  remarkable  insulated  peaks  of  the  *Five  IslaadBt  the 
chief  of  which  is  860  ft.  high,  rising  from  the  waters  of  the  Basin.  On  the 
adjacent  shore  is  the  village  of  Five  Islands,  occupying  a  very  picturesque 
position,  and  containing  600  inhabitants.  In  this  vicinity  are  found  iron, 
copper,  and  plumbago,  and  white-lead  is  extracted  in  considerable  quan- 
tities from  minerals  mined  among  the  hills.  Marble  was  formerly  produced 
here,  but  the  quarries  are  now  abandoned.  The  massive  ridge  variously 
known  as  Mt.  Gerrish,  St.  Peter's  Mt.,  and  Red  Head,  looms  over  the  vil- 
lage to  a  height  of  500  ft.,  having  a  singularly  bold  and  alpine  "character 
for  so  small  an  elevation.  On  its  lower  slopes  are  found  pockets  containing 
fine  barytes,  of  which  large  quantities  are  sent  to  the  United  States.  A 
mass  of  over  160  pounds'  weight  was  sent  from  this  place  to  the  Paris  Ex- 
position of  1867.  A  few  miles  W.  of  the  village  are  the  falls  on  the  North 
River,  which  are  90  ft.  high ;  and  to  the  N.  is  the  wild  and  picturesque 
scenery  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.  Stages  run  from  Londonderry  Station  to 
Five  Islands,  which  is  indeed  one  of  the  loveliest  spots  in  Canada.  The 
sea-beach  is  magnificent,  and  the  facilities  for  bathing  and  boating  ex- 
cellent.   Broderick's  Hotel  commands  the  finest  part  of  the  shore. 

"  Before  them  lay  the  outlines  of  Fire  Islands,  rising  beantiAiUy  out  of  the  water 

between  them  und  the  mainland The  two  more  distant  were  rounded  and 

well  wooded ;  the  third,  which  was  midway  among  the  group,  had  lofty,  precipitous 
sides,  and  the  summit  wns  dome-shaped;  the  fourth  was  like  a  table,  rising  with 
perpendicular  sides  to  the  height  of  200  ft. ,  with  a  flat,  level  surface  above,  which 
was  all  overgrown  with  forest  trees.  The  last,  and  nearest  of  the  group,  was  by  fiuf 
the  most  singular.  It  was  a  bare  rock  which  rose  irregularly  from  the  sea,  termi- 
nating at  one  end  in  a  peak  which  rose  about  200  ft.  in  the  air It  resembled, 

more  than  anything  else,  a  vast  cathedral  rising  out  of  the  sea,  the  chief  mass  of  the 
rock  corresponding  with  the  main  part  of  the  cathedral,  while  the  tower  and  spire 
were  there  in  all  their  majesty.     For  this  cause  the  rock  has  received  the  name  of 

Pinnacle  Island At  its  base  they  saw  the  white  foam  of  breaking  surf;  while 

fiir  on  high  around  its  lofty,  tempesNbeaten  summit,  they  saw  myriads  of  sea-gulls. 
Gathering  in  great  white  clouds  about  this  place,  they  S|iorted  and  chased  one  an- 
other ;  they  screamed  and  uttered  their  shrill  yells,  which  sounded  afar  over  the 


sea. 


(DEMn.LE.) 


10  M.  beyond  these  islands  the  steamer  passes  the  lofty  and  far-project- 
ing peninsula  of  Economy^  Pointy  and  enters  the  Cobequid  Bay  (which 
ascends  to  Truro,  a  distance  of  36  M.).  After  touching  at  Londonderry, 
on  the  N.  shore,  the  steamer  crosses  the  bay  to  Maitland  (two  inns),  a 
busy  and  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  at  the  mouth  of  the  Shubenacadie 
River  (see  page  82). 

The  S.  shore  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  is  lined  with  bluffs  100-180  ft.  high, 
but  is  far  less  imposing  than  the  N.  shore.  Noel  is  about  16  M.  W.  of 
Maitland,  and  is  situated  on  a  pretty  little  bay  between  Noel  Head  and 
Burnt-Coat  Head.  It  has  300  inhabitants,  and  produces  the  mineral  called 
terra  alba,  used  in  bleaching  cottons.  It  is  not  found  elsewhere  in  Ajner- 
ica.    After  leaving  Noel  Bay  and  passing  the  lighthouse  on  Burnt-Coat 

^  Economy  U  derived  from  the  Indian  name  Jr«.om««,  which  was  applied  to  the  tame 
place,  and  meant "  Sandy  Point" 

6* 


106     Route  tl. 


BASIN  OF  MIKAS. 


Head,  the  trend  of  the  coast  is  followed  to  the  S.  W.  for  about  20  M.  to 
TTo/ton,  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  at  the  month  of  the  La  T6te  River. 
M^y  thousand  tons  of  gypsum  and  plaster  of  Paris  (calcined  gypsum)  are 
annually  shipped  from  this  port  to  the  United  States.  Immense  quantities 
are  exported  also  from  the  coasts  of  Chivirie,  which  extend  from  Walton 
S.  W.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Avon  River.  The  whole  back  country  is  com- 
posed of  limestone  soil  and  gypsum-beds,  whose  mining  and  shipment 
form  an  industry  of  increasing  importance.  Beyond  the  Chivirie  coast  the 
steamer  ascends  the  Avon  River  to  Windsor. 

The  Basin  of  Minas  ytM  the  favorite  home  of  Glooscap,  the  Hiawatha  of  the  Mic- 
macs,  ¥rhose  traditions  describe  him  as  an  envoy  from  the  Great  Spirit,  \tho  had  the 
form  and  habits  of  humanity ,  but  was  exalted  above  all  peril  and  sickness  and  death. 
He  dwelt  apart  and  above,  in  a  great  wigwam,  and  was  attended  by  an  old  woman 
and  a  beautiful  youth,  and  "  was  never  very  far  trovx  any  one  of  them,"  who  re- 
ceived his  counsels.  His  power  was  unbounded  Lijd  supernatural,  and  was  wielded 
against  the  enchantments  of  the  magicians,  while  his  wisdom  taught  the  Indians 
how  to  hunt  and  fish,  to  heal  diseases,  and  to  build  wigwams  and  Canoes.  He 
named  the  constellations  in  the  heavens,  and  many  of  the  chief  points  on  the  Acadian 
shores.  The  Basin  of  Minas  was  his  beaver-pond ;  Gape  Split  was  the  bulwark  of 
the  dam ;  and  Spencer's  Island  is  his  overturned  kettle.  He  controlled  the  ele- 
ments,  find  by  his  magic  wand  led  the  caribou  and  the  bear  to  his  throne.  The 
allied  powers  of  evil  advanced  with  immense  hosts  to  overthrow  his  great  wigwam 
and  break  his  power ;  but  he  extinguished  their  camp-fires  by  night  and  summoned 
the  spirits  of  the  fTost,  by  whose  endeavors  the  land  was  visited  by  an  inteni^e  cold,  i 
and  the  hostile  armies  were  frozen  in  the  forest.  On  the  approach  of  the  English  he  } 
turned  his  huge  hunting-dogs  into  stone  and  then  passed  away ;  but  will  return 
again,  right  Spencer's  Ishind,  call  the  dogs  to  life,  and  once  more  dispense  his  royal  ] 
hospitality  on  the  Minas  shores.  | 

**  Now  the  ways  of  beasts  and  men  waxed  evil,  and  they  greatly  vexed  Glooscap,        - 
and  at  length  he  could  no  longer  endure  them  ;  and  ho  made  a  rich  feast  by  the       * 
shore  of  the  great  lake  (Minas).     All  the  beasts  came  to  it ;  and  when  the  feast  was       ^ 
over,  lie  got  into  a  big  canoe,  he  and  his  uncle,  the  Great  Turtle,  and  they  went 
away  over  the  big  lake,  and  the  beasts  looked  after  them  till  they  saw  them  no 
more.    And  after  they  ceased  to  see  them,  they  still  heard  their  voices  as  they  sang,        i 
but  the  sounds  grew  fainter  and  fainter  in  the  distance,  and  at  last  they  wholly  died 
away ;  and  then  deep  silence  fell  on  them  all,  and  a  great  marvel  came  to  pass, 
and  the  beasts  who  had  till  now  spoken  but  one  language  no  longer  were  able  to 
understand  each  other,  and  they  all  fled  away,  each  his  otrn  way,  and  never  again 
have  they  met  together  in  council.    Until  the  day  when  Glooscap  shall  return  to 
restore  the  Golden  Age,  and  make  men  and  animals  dwell  once  more  together  in       j 
amity  and  peace,  all  Nature  mourns.    The  tradition  states  that  on  his  departure       I 
flrom  Acadia  the  great  snowy  owl  retired  to  the  deep  forests  to  return  no  more  until       | 
he  could  come  to  welcome  Glooscap ;  and  in  those  sylvan  depths  the  owls,  even  yet,      j 
repeat  to  the  night, '  Koo  koo  skoos !  Koo  koo  skoos ! '  which  is  to  say,  in  the  In- 
dian tongrue,  *  0, 1  am  sorry !  0, 1  am  sorry  ! '    And  the  loons,  who  had  been  the 
huntsmen  of  Glooscap,  go  restlessly  up  and  down  through  the  world,  seeking  vainly 
for  their  master, wticai  they  cannot  find,  and  wailing  sadly  because  they  find  him 
not.'> 


I 


''  ^1 


( I 


THE  BlSnr  OF  MINAS 


THE  OLD  ACA1HAN  LAND. 


i«^s^ 


m 


\/. 


'<XMWi^y/ 


\rtoH 


1 


THE  LAND  OF  EVANGELINE.    Route  «£.    107 

22,  The  Land  of  Evangeline. 

This  beautiful  and  deeply  interesting  district  is  visited  with  the  greatest 
ease  from  the  academic  town  of  Wolfville  ( Village  Hotel ;  Acadia ;  Ameri- 
can), which  is  127  M.  from  St.  John  and  63  M.  from  Halifax  (by  Route  18), 
on  an  arm  of  the  Basin  of  Minas,  and  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  farm- 
ing. It  has  800  inhabitants,  5  churches,  Acadia  Seminary  (5  teachers  and 
70  pupils),  and  the  Horton  Academy  (4  teachers,  60  students).  The  Acadia 
College  is  a  Baptist  institution,  with  8  professors,  60  students,  and  222 
alumni  in  1883.  The  college  buildings  occupy  a  fine  situation  on  a  hill 
which  overlooks  "  those  meadows  on  the  Basin  of  Minas  which  Mr.  Long- 
fellow has  made  more  sadly  poetical  than  any  other  ^pot  on  the  Wesfern 
Continent."  The  *  view  from  the  belfry  of  the  college  is  the  mo!=t  beau- 
tiful in  this  vicinity,  or  even,  perhaps,  in  the  Maritime  Provinces.  Far 
across  the  Cornwallis  Valley  to  the  N.  is  the  North  Mt.  which  terminates, 
16  M.  away  (21  M.  by  road),  in  the  majestic  bluff  ot  Cape  blomidou 
dropping  into  the  Basin  of  Minas.  To  the  N.  E.  is  the  "great  meadow  • 
which  gave  name  and  site  to  the  village  of  Grand  Prd.  Steamboats  ran 
on  the  Basin  of  Minas  in  summer,  connecting  Wolfville  wif 'i  \h&  other 
ports,  and  giving  a  very  delightful  journey  (see  page  101). 

^  good  road  leads  E.  (In  3  M.)  from  Wolfville  to  Lower  Horton,  a  scat- 
tered hamlet  among  the  hills.  By  passing  down  from  this  point  to  the 
meadows  just  beyond  the  railway-station  of  Orand  Pr6,  the  traveller 
reaches  the  site  of  the  ancient  village.  Standing  on  the  platform  of  the 
station,  he  sees  a  large  tree  at  the  comer  of  the  field  on  the  left  front. 
Near  that  point  are  the  faint  remains  of  the  foundations  of  the  Acadian 
church.  The  tradition  of  the  country-side  claims  that  the  aged  willow- 
tree  near  by  grows  on  the  site  of  the  shop  of  Basil  the  Blacksmith,  and 
that  cinders  have  been  dug  up  at  its  foot.  The  destruction  effected  by 
the  British  troops  was  complete,  and  there  are  h^jw  ao  relics  of  the  an- 
cient settlement,  except  the  gnarled  and  knotty  tiuci  of  the  orchards,  the 
lines  of  willows  along  the  old  roads,  and  the  sunken  hollows  which  indi- 
cate the  sites  of  former  cellars.  Near  the  shore  is  shown  the  place  where 
the  exiles  were  put  on  shipboard.  A  road  leads  across  the  rich  diked 
marsh  in  2-3  M.  to  Long  Island,  a  slight  elevation  fronting  on  the  Basin 
of  Minas,  and  on  which  dwells  a  farming  population  of  about  120  persons. 
To  the  N.  E.  Is  the  mouth  of  the  Gaspereaux  River,  and  on  the  W.  the 
Cornwallis  River  is  discharged.  The  early  Acadians  reclaimed  these  rich 
meadows  from  the  sweep  of  the  tides  by  building  light  dikes  to  turn  the 
water.  There  were  2,100  acres  of  this  gained  land  in  their  Grand  Pr^, 
but  the  successive  advancing  of  other  lines  of  aggression  has  driven  back 
the  sea  from  a  much  larger  area,  all  of  which  is  very  productive  and  val- 
uable. In  1810  the  broad  meadow  between  Grand  Pr6  and  Wolfville  was 
enclosed  by  new  dikes  and  adde<^  to  the  reclaimed  domain. 


108      RouUi2. 


GRAND  PB& 


Noble^s  MMMtehiuett^  regiment  wm  cantoned  at  Grand  Vri  In  the  winter  of 
1746-7.  1!>uriDg  a  heavy  snowHstorm,  before  dawn  on  Feb.  11,  the  town  was  at- 
tacked by  SIO  French  troopH,  arranged  in  10  divisions,  and  conimanded  by  Coulon 
de  Ttlliem.  The  sentinels  were  vigikuit,  and  gave  the  alarm  as  soon  as  the  hostile 
columns  were  seen  over  the  lofty  tinow-drifts ;  but  the  assailants  dashed  in  fearlessly 
and  soon  carried  the  strongest  of  the  barracks.  Col.  Noble  was  slain  while  fighting 
in  his  sliirt.  134  Americans  were  killed  and  wounded  and  69  were  made  pri(  oners ; 
21  of  the  attacking  party  were  killed  and  wounded.  In  the  morning  SCO  of  the 
Massachusetts  men  wnre  concentrated  in  a  stone  building,  and  fought  with  much 
bravery,  the  combat  being  waged  from  house  to  house  through  the  streets.  By 
noon  their  ammunition  was  expended,  and  they  surrendered  to  the  French,  being 
paroled  and  allowed  to  march  out  with  the  honors  of  war.  A  convivial  dinner  was 
then  epjoyed  by  the  officers  of  the  whilom  hostile  forces,  and  the  Americans  were 
sent  to  Annapolis  under  an  Acadian  guard,  while  the  French  soon  afterwai'd  retired 
to  Buaubassin,  t>earing  their  captured  artillery  and  four  stands  of  colors  which  had 
been  taken  in  the  battle. 

The  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas  were  settled  in  the  early  part  of  the  17th  century 
by  immigrants  from  La  Rochcllc,  Baintongc,  and  Foitou.  They  soon  erected  dikes 
by  -vhich  the  tide  was  kept  olT  fi-om  the  meadows,  and  from  these  rich  reclaimed 
laj.ds  they  gathered  great  crops.  Several  cargoes  of  grain  were  exported  to  Boston 
every  year,  and  the  settlement  soon  became  large  and  proppcrcus.  The  Indians 
regarded  these  new  neighbors  with  affection,  and  lived  on  terms  of  perfect  peace 
with  them.  During  the  wars  between  France  and  Great  Liitain,  the  Acadians  were 
strongly  patriotic,  and  took  up  aims  in  the  cause  of  their  native  land.  Intensely 
devoted  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  and  considering  these  wars  as  in  the  nature 
of  crusades,  they  fought  valiantly  and  well 

But  when  Nova  Scotia  was  finally  ceded  to  Great  Britain  (in  1713),  their  position 
became  very  awkward  and  painful.  Many  of  them  refused  to  take  the  oath  of  alle- 
giance, and  for  others  a  modified  formula  was  framed.  The  emissaries  of  the  French 
power  at  Louisbourg  and  Quebec  circulated  among  them'  and  maintained  their  loy- 
alty to  Franco  at  a  fever  heat,  while  their  priests  acted  continually  on  the  same 
policy,  and  kept  up  the  hostility  to  the  conquerors.  The  British  Provincial  govern- 
ment was  located  at  Annapolis,  and  though  its  laws  were  mild  and  clenr.cnt,  it  could 
not  command  rerpcct  on  account  of  its  physical  weakness.  Under  these  circum- 
stances, hundreds  of  the  Acadians  joined  the  French  armies  during  every  war  be- 
tween the  two  powers,  and  proved  dangerous  foenien,  on  account  of  their  knowledge 
of  the  land.  British  settlers  were  unwilling  to  locate  among  these  people  on  account 
of  their  liostility,  and  the  fairest  lands  of  the  Province  were  thus  held  by  an  alien 
and  hostile  population.  The  great  conflict  between  England  and  France  in  the  New 
World  was  still  in  full  course,  and  the  latter  power  v.a8  in  possession  of  the  Canadas. 
The  msgority  of  the  Acadians  were  doubtless  peaceful  and  honest,  occupied  only 
with  their  local  affoirs;  but  some  of  them  were  hostile  and  troublesome,  and  the 
anomalous  position  of  these  alien  subjects  was  a  source  of  incessant  danger  to  the 
English  power.  It  was  therefore  determined  in  the  council  at  Halifax,  in  1755,  that 
tiicy  must  either  take  an  unconditional  oath  of  allegiance  to  Great  Britain  or  leave 
the  country.  Deputations  were  called  in  from  all  the  French  settlements,  and  the 
alternatives  were  clearly  set  forth  before  them.  Almost  unanimously  they  refused 
to  take  the  oath,  preferring  (they  said)  exile  and  confiscation  to  such  an  act,  and 
ceeming  to  regard  their  neutrality  of  the  past  45  years  as  having  become  a  vested 
right.  It  seems  as  if  diplomacy  and  argument  were  tiied  to  their  utmost  limit  upon 
these  unyielding  recusants,  '.nd  it  then  became  necessary  for  the  honor  and  safety 
of  the  Province,  to  rc^c**;  lo  sterner  measures.  It  was  resolved  that  the  whole  Aca- 
dian people  should  be  banished  to  the  southern  American  colonies,  and  that  their 
estates  and  buildings,  cattle  and  vessels,  should  be  declared  forfeited  to  the  Crown. 

Tho  Acadians  were  taken  by  surprise.  A  British  detachment  and  fleet  dcf  troycd 
all  the  villages,  farms,  and  churches,  on  the  Chignecto  Basin  and  the  Petitcodiac 
River,  sweeping  up  many  prisoners  and  meeting  with  some  sharp  fighting.  Monc- 
ton  destroyed  Shc^diac,  llernGheg,  and  other  towns  on  the  Gulf  coast ;  Murray  gath- 
ered up  the  people  about  Windsor  and  to  the  £. ;  and  Handfield  put  the  French 
Annapolitans  on  shipboard,  except  a  few  who  escaped  into  the  woods.  Winslow 
collected  1,923  persons  at  Grand  Pr6  and  embarked  them,  and  burned  256  houses, 
276  barns,  and  11  mills.  (Winslow  was  a  Massachusetts  officer,  and  20}  ears  later 
his  own  fiimily  was  driven  into  exile  for  hostility  to  America.)  The  people  of  Grand 
Prd  were  sent  to  North  Carolina,  Tlrglnia,  and  Maryland. 


GRAND  pM 


Jtoute  92.      109 


upcn 
Faiety 
Ara- 
tbeir 
)wn. 
royed 
odiac 
lonc- 
gath- 
cnch 
slow 
tuseg, 
later 
raud 


"  While  we  see  plainly  that  England  could  nerer  really  control  this  PrOTlnce 
while  they  remained  in  it,  all  our  feelings  of  humanity  are  aflTected  by  the  removal 

itself,  and  still  more  by  the  severity  of  the  attendant  circumstances They  were 

the  victims  of  great  error  on  thehr  own  part,  and  of  delusive  views  tliat  &Ise  friends 
had  instilled  into  their  minds,  and  the  impulses  of  national  ambition  and  jealousy 
precipitated  their  fkte.  It  is,  however,  some  consolation  to  know  that  very  many  cf 
the  exiles  returned  within  a  few  years  to  their  native  land,  and  (hough  not  restored 
to  their  native  farms,  they  became  an  integral  and  respected  portion  of  our  popula- 
tion, displaying,  under  all  changes,  those  simple  virtues  that  they  had  inherited, — 
the  same  modest,  bumble,  and  peaceable  disposition,  that  had  been  their  early  attri- 
butes."   (Murdoch.)    (See  also  Clare,  CHEZZBrcooK,  and  Tracadie.) 

In  1760  a  large  colony  of  families  from  Connecticut,  in  a  fleet  of  22  vessels  con- 
voyed by  a  man-of-v?ar,  arrived  at  Grand  Pr6  and  occupied  the  deserted  farms. 
"  They  fl^tind  60  ox-carts  and  as  many  yokes,  which  the  unfortunate  French  had 
uj*ed  in  conveying  their  baggage  to  the  vessels  that  carried  them  away  from  the 
country  ;  and  at  the  skirts  of  the  forest  heaps  of  the  bones  of  sheep  and  horned  cat- 
tle, that,  deserted  by  their  owners,  had  peri.shed  in  winter  from  the  lack  of  food. 
They  also  met  with  a  few  straggling  families  of  Acadians  who  had  escaped  from  the 
scrutinizing  search  of  the  soldiers  at  the  removal  of  their  countrymen,  and  who, 
afraid  of  sharing  the  same  fate,  had  not  ventured  to  till  the  land,  or  to  appear  in 
the  open  country.  They  had  eaten  no  bread  for  five  years,  and  bad  subsisted  on 
vegetables,  fl?H,  ant!  the  more  hardy  part  of  the  cattle  that  had  survived  the  severe 
ity  of  the  first  >vlnter  of  their  abandonment."    (Ualibcbton.) 

"  This  is  the  forest  primeval.    The  murmuring  pines  and  the  hemlocks, 
Bearded  with  moss,  and  in  garments  green,  indistinct  in  the  twilight, 
Stand  like  Druids  of  eld,  with  voices  sad  and  prophetic, 
Stand  like  harpers  boar,  with  beards  that  rest  on  their  bosoms. 
Loud  from  its  rocky  caverns,  the  deep-voiced  neighboring  ocean 
Speaks,  and  in  accents  disconsolate  answers  the  wail  of  the  forest. 

"  This  is  the  forest  primeval;  but  where  are  the  hearts  that  beneath  it 
Leaped  like  the  roe,  when  he  hears  in  the  woodland  the  voice  of  the  hantsman? 
Where  is  the  thatch-roofed  village,  the  home  of  Acadian  farmers, — 
Men  whose  lives  glided  on  like  rivers  that  water  the  woodlands, 
Darkened  by  shadows  of  earth,  but  reflecting  an  image  of  heaven? 
Waste  are  those  pleasant  farms,  and  the  farmers  forever  departed ! 
Scattered  like  dust  and  leaves,  when  the  mighty  blasts  of  October 
Seize  them,  and  whirl  them  alofb,  and  sprinkle  them  far  o^er  the  oceaa> 
Naught  but  tradition  remains  of  the  beautiful  village  of  Qrand  Pr6. 

"  In  the  Acadian  land,  on  the  shores  of  the  Basin  of  Minas, 
Distant,  secluded,  still,  the  little  village  of  Grand  Vt6 
Lay  in  the  fruitful  valley.    Yast  meadows  stretched  to  the  eastward, 
Giving  the  village  its  name,  and  pasture  to  flocks  without  number. 
Dikes,  that  the  hands  of  the  farmers  had  raised  with  labor  incessant, 
Shut  out  the  turbulent  tides ;  but  at  certain  seasons  the  flood-gates 
Opened,  and  welcomed  the  sea  to  wander  at  will  o'er  the  meadows. 
West  and  south  there  were  fields  of  flax,  and  orchards  and  corn-fields 

■  Spreading  a&r  and  unfenced  o'er  the  plain ;  and  away  to  the  northward 
Blomidon  rose,  and  Ihe  iv^i'ests  old,  and  aloft  on  the  mountains 
Sea-fogs  pitched  their  tents,  and  mists  from  the  mighty  Atlantic 
Looked  on  the  happy  Va!!ey,  but  ne'er  from  their  station  descended. 
There,  in  the  midst  of  its  farms,  reposed  the  Acadian  village. 
Strongly  built  were  the  houses,  with  frames  of  oak  and  of  chestnut, 
Such  as  the  peasants  of  Normandy  built  in  the  reign  of  the  Henries. 
Thatched  were  the  rooft^,  with  dormer-windows ;  and  gables  projecting 
Over  the  basement  below  protected  and  shaded  the  doorway. 
There  in  the  tranquil  evenings  of  summer,  when  brightly  the  sunset 
Lighted  the  village  street,  and  gilded  the  vanes  on  the  chimneys, 
Matrons  and  maidens  sat  in  snow-white  caps  and  in  kirtles 
Scarlet  and  blue  and  green,  with  distaffs  spinning  the  golden 
Flax  for  the  gossiping  looms,  whose  noisy  shuttles  within  doors 
Bliugled  their  sound  with  the  whir  of  the  wheels  and  the  songs  of  the  maidens. 


110      Route  U. 


QBANB  PB^ 


.SolemnlT  down  the  street  came  tbe  parish  priest,  and  the  children 
Paused  in  their  play  to  kiss  the  hand  he  extended  to  bless  them. 
Beyerend  walked  he  among  them ;  and  up  rose  matrons  and  maidens, 
Hailing  his  slow  approach  with  word8  of  affectionate  welcome. 
Then  came  the  laborers  home  from  the  field,  and  serenely  the  sun  sank 
Down  to  his  rest,  and  twilight  prevailed.    Anon  from  the  belfry 
Softly  the  Angjdus  Founded,  and  over  the  roofs  of  the  village 
Columns  of  pale  blue  smoke,  like  clouds  of  incense  afcending, 
Rose  from  a  hundred  hearths,  the  homes  of  peace  and  contentment. 
Thus  dwelt  together  in  love  these  simple  Acadian  farmers,  — 
Dwelt  in  the  love  of  God  and  of  man.    Alike  were  they  free  from 
Fear,  that  reigns  with  tbe  tyrant,  and  envy,  the  vice  of  republics. 
Neither  locks  had  they  to  their  doors,  nor  bars  to  their  windows  ; 
But  their  dwellings  were  open  as  day  and  the  hearts  of  the  owners  ;     *  * 

There  the  richest  was  poor,  and  the  poorest  lived  in  abundance." 

The  poet  then  describes  "  the  gentle  Evangeline,  the  pride  of  the  vil- 
lage." 

"  Fair  was  she  to  behold,  that  maiden  of  seventeen  summers. 
Black  were  her  eyes  as  the  berry  that  grows  on  the  thorn  by  the  wayside, 
Black,  yet  how  softly  they  gleamed  beneath  the  brown  shade  of  her  tresses! 
Sweet  was  her  breath  as  the  breath  of  kine  that  feed  in  the  meadows. 
When  in  the  harvest  heat  she  bore  to  the  reapers  at  noontide 
Flagons  of  home-brewed  ale,  ah !  fair  in  sooth  was  the  maiden. 
Fairer  was  she  when,  on  Sunday  morn,  while  tbe  bell  from  its  turret 
Sprinkled  with  holy  sounds  the  air,  as  the  priest  with  his  hyssop 
Sprinkles  thd  congregation,  and  scatters  blessings  upon  them. 
Down  the  long  street  she  pnRscd,  with  her  chaplet  of  beads  and  her  missal, 
Wearing  her  Norman  cap,  and  her  kirtle  of  blue,  and  the  ear-rings,  — 
Brought  in  the  olden  time  from  France,  and  since,  as  an  heirloom, 
Handed  down  from  mother  to  child,  through  long  generations. 
But  a  celestial  brightness  —  a  more  ethereal  beauty  — 
Shone  on  her  face  and  encircled  her  form,  when,  after  confession. 
Homeward  serenely  she  walked,  with  God's  benediction  upon  her. 
When  she  had  passed,  it  seemed  like  the  ceasing  of  exquisite  music." 

After  a  beautiful  description  of  the  peaceful  social  life  of  the  Acadians, 
and  the  betrothal  of  Evangeline,  the  poet  tells  of  the  arrival  of  the  English 
fleet,  the  convocation  of  the  people,  the  royal  mandate,  the  destruction  of 
Grand  Pr^,  and  the  weary  exile  of  the  villagers. 

"  So  passed  the  morning  away.    And  lo !  with  a  summons  sonorous 
Sounded  the  bvU  firom  its  tower,  and  over  the  meadow  a  drum  beat. 
Thronged  erelong  was  the  church  with  men.    Without,  in  the  churchyard. 
Waited  the  women.    They  stood  by  the  graves,  and  hung  on  tbe  headstones 
Garlands  of  autumn-leaves  and  evergreens  fresh  from  tlic  forest. 
Then  came  the  guard  from  the  ships,  and  marching  proudly  among  them 
Ei'tered  the  sacred  portal.     With  loud  and  dissonant  clangor 
Ecioed  the  sound  of  their  brazen  drums  ttom  ceiling  and  casement, — 
F-choed  a  moment  only,  and  slowly  the  ponderous  portal 
Closed,  and  in  silence  the  crowd  awaited  the  will  of  the  soldiers. 
Then  uprose  their  commander,  and  spake  from  the  steps  of  the  altar, 
Holding  aloft  in  his  hands,  with  its  seals,  the  royal  commission. 
*  Ye  are  convened  this  day,'  he  said, '  by  his  Majesty's  orders. 
Clement  and  kind  has  he  been ;  but  how  have  you  answered  his  kindueis, 
Let  your  own  hearts  reply !     To  my  natural  make  and  my  temper 
Painful  the  task  is  I  do,  which  to  you  I  know  must  be  grievous. 
Yet  must  I  bow  and  obey,  and  deliver  the  will  of  our  monarch  ; 
Namely,  that  all  your  lands,  and  dwellings,  and  cattle  of  all  kinds 
Forfeited  be  to  the  crown  ;  and  that  you  yourselves  from  this  province 
Be  transported  to  other  lands.    God  grant  you  may  dwell  there 
Ever  as  &ithfiil  subjects,  a  happy  and  peaceable  people ! 
Prisoners  now  I  declare  you ;  fbr  such  is  his  Majesty's  pleasure.' 


GRAND  PR^ 


JRouteH.      Ill 


e  vil- 


li! 


I, 


lians, 
|glish 
•nof 


There  disoTder  prerailed,  and  the  tomult  and  stir  of  embarking. 

Busily  plied  the  freighted  boats ;  and  in  the  confusion 

Wives  were  torn  from  their  husbands,  and  mothers,  too  late,  saw  their  children 

Left  on  the  land,  extending  their  anus,  vith  wildest  entreaties. 

•  >  •  •  • 

Suddenly  rose  from  the  south  a  light,  as  in  autumn  the  blood-red 

Moon  climbs  the  crystal  walls  of  heaven,  and  o'er  the  borizmi 

Titan-like  stretches  its  hundred  hands  upon  mountain  and  meadow, 

Seizing  the  rocks  and  the  rivers,  and  piling  huge  shadows  together. 

Broader  and  ever  broader  it  gleamed  on  the  roofs  of  the  village, 

Gleamed  on  the  sky  and  the  sea,  and  the  ships  that  lay  in  the  roadstead. 

Columns  of  shining  smoke  uprose,  and  flashes  of  flame  were 

Thrust  through  their  folds  and  withdrawn,  like  the  quivering  hands  of  a  martyr. 

Then  as  the  wind  seized  the  glceds  and  the  burning  thatch ,  and  uplifting, 

Whirled  them  alofb  th  ough  the  air,  at  once  from  a  hundred  house-tops 

Started  the  sheeted  smoke,  with  flashes  of  flame  intermingled. 

Many  a  weary  year  had  passed  since  the  burning  of  Grand  Pr^, 
When  on  the  falling  tide  the  freighted  vessels  departed, 
Bearing  a  nation,  with  all  its  household  gods,  into  exile, 
Exile  without  an  end,  and  without  an  example  in  story. 
Far  asunder,  on  separate  coasts,  the  Acadians  landed ; 
Scattered  were  they,  like  flakes  of  snow,  when  the  wind  from  the  northeast 
Strikes  aslant  through  the  fogs  that  darken  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 
Friendless,  homeless,  hopeless,  they  wandered  from  city  to  city, 
From  t.he  cold  lakes  of  ♦he  North  to  sultry  Southern  savannas, — 
From  the  bleak  shores  of  the  sea  to  the  lands  where  the  Father  of  Waters 
Seizes  the  hills  in  his  hands,  and  drags  them  down  to  the  ccean, 
Deep  in  their  sands  to  bury  the  scattered  bones  of  the  mammoth, 
j^  Friends  they  sought  and  homes ;  and  many,  despairing,  heart-broken, 

V  Asked  of  the  earth  but  a  grave,  and  no  longer  a  friend  or  a  fireside. 

Written  their  history  stands  on  tablets  of  stone  in  the  churchyards." 

Longfellow's  Evangeline. 

"  Much  as  we  may  admire  the  various  bays  and  lakes,  the  inlets,  promontories, 
and  straits,  the  mountains  and  woodlands  of  this  rarely  visited  corner  of  creation, —> 
and,  compared  with  it,  we  can  boast  of  no  coast  scenery  so  beautiful,  —  the  vfdleyof 
Grand  Pre  transcends  all  the  rest  in  the  Province.  Only  our  valley  of  Wyoming, 
as  an  inland  picture,  may  match  it,  both  in  beauty  and  tradition.  One  had  its  Qer« 
trude,  the  other  its  Evangeline. "    (Cozzens.  ) 

"  Beyond  is  a  lofty  and  extended  chain  of  hills,  presenting  a  vast  chasm,  appar- 
ently burst  out  by  the  waters  of  19  rivers  that  empty  into  the  Basin  of  Minas,  and  here 
escape  into  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  The  variety  and  extent  of  this  prospect,  the  beauti- 
fhl  verdant  vale  of  the  Gaspereaux  ;  the  extended  township  of  Horton  interspersed 
with  groves  of  wood  and  cultured  fields,  and  the  cloud-capped  summit  of  the  lofty 
cape  that  terminates  the  chain  of  the  North  Mt.,  form  an  assemblage  of  objects 
rarely  united  with  so  striking  an  effect." 

"  It  would  be  difficult  to  point  cut  another  landscape  at  all  equal  to  that  which  is 
beheld  from  the  hill  that  overlooks  the  site  of  the  ancient  village  of  Minas.  On 
either  hand  extend  undulating  hills  richly  cultivated,  and  intermit  gled  with  form* 
houses  and  orchards.  From  the  base  of  these  highlands  extend  tim  alluvial  mead- 
ows which  add  so  much  to  the  appearance  and  wealth  of  Horton.  The  Grand 
Prairie  is  skirted  by  Boot  and  Long  Islands,  whose  fertile  and  well-tilled  fields  are 
sheltered  from  the  north  by  evergreen  forests  of  dark  foliage.  Beyond  are  the  wide 
expanse  of  waters  of  the  Basin  of  Minas,  the  lower  part  of  Cornwallis,  and  the  isles 
and  blue  highlands  of  the  opposite  shores.  The  charm  of  this  prospect  consists  in 
the  unusual  combination  of  hill,  dale,  woods,  and  cultivated  fields ;  in  the  calm 
beauty  of  agricultural  scenery ;  and  in  the  romantic  wildness  of  the  distant  forests. 
During  the  summer  and  autumnal  months  immense  herds  of  cattle  are  seen  quietly 
cropping  the  herbage  of  the  Grand  Prairie ;  while  numerous  vessels  plying  on  the 
Basin  convey  a  pleasing  evidence  of  the  prosperity  and  resoui-oes  of  this  fertile  dis- 
trict."    (HAUBUaiOK.) 


112     Route  XS, 


ST.  MARY'S  BAY. 


23.  Annapolis  Boyal  to  Clare  and  Tarmonth.— The  Tos- 

ket  Lakes. 

From  St.  John  or  Halifax  to  AnnapoiU  Royal,  see  Route  18. 

The  Western-Counties  liailwai/  was  begun  In  September,  1874,  and  runs  ftom 
Digby  to  Yarmouth,  and  is  being  built  between  Digbv  and  Annapolis. 

Stations.  —  Digby  to  Jordantown,  4  M.  ;  Bloonifield,  9 ;  North  Range,  11 ; 
Plympton,14:  Port  Gilbert,  16  :  Weymorth,  22;  BelHveau.26;  Church  Point,  30 ; 
Little  Brook,  32;  Saulnierville,  34;  Mc:  ,han,  37;  Hcctanooga,  46 ;  Norwood,  49 ; 
lake  Jessie,  51 ;  Brazil,  54 ;  Green  Cove  67 :  Ohio,  60 ;  Hebron,  62  ;  Tarmouth,  67. 

We  add  also  the  distances  on  the  old   lig^ .    ay. 

Itinerary.  —  Annapolis  Royal;  3m  itsport,  8J  M. ;  Victoria  Bridge,  13^; 
Smith's  Cove,  16;  Digby,  20^  ;  St.  Mt.  y's  Bay,  27*;  Weymouth  Road,  32;  Wey- 
mouth Bridge,  88 ;  Belliveau  Cove,  43 ;  Clare,  50  ;  Meteghan  Covoj  69 ;  Cbeticamp, 
63 ;  Bear  River,  74  ;  Y&rmouth  Lakes,  81 ;  Yarmouth,  90. 

The  railway  lies  farther  inland  than  the  highway,  traversing  a  com- 
paratively new  country,  where  beautiful  lakes  and  ponds  abound  on  every 
side.  The  fare  from  Yarmouth  to  Weymouth  is  $1.65;  to  Digby,  $2.45; 
to  Annapolis,  $3;  to  St.  John,  $3.50;"  to  Halifax,  $6.50;  to  Boston  (lim- 
ited), $7.    Annapolis  Royal  to  Digby,  see  pages  84,  85  (reversed). 

On  leaving  Digby  the  line  runs  S.  W.,  traversing  the  fanning  set- 
tlement of  M$rshalUown,  and  crosses  the  Isthmus  between  the  An- 
napolis Basin  and  St.  Mary's  Bay,  a  distance  of  about  7  M.  Thence- 
forward, for  over  80  M.,  the  highway  lies  near  the  beautiful  *St.  Mary's 
Bay,  which  is  about  35  M.  long,  with  a  width  of  from  3  to  10  M.  On  the 
opposite  shore  are  the  highlands  of  Digby  Neck  (see  Route  24),  a  continu- 
ation of  the  North  Mt.  range.  On  this  shore  a  wide  belt  of  level  land  has 
been  left  between  the  receding  range  of  the  South  Mt.  (or  Blue  Mts.)  and 
the  bay,  and  the  water-front  is  occupied  by  immerous  farms. 

In  St.  Mary's  Bay  the  fleet  of  the  Sieur  de  Montfi  lay  for  two  weeks,  in  1604,  while 
the  shores  were  being  explored  by  boat's-crews.  The  mariners  were  greatly  rejoiced 
in  finding  what  they  supposed  to  be  valuable  deposits  of  iron  and  silver.  The 
Parisian  priest  Aubry  was  lost  on  one  of  these  excursions,  and  roamed  through  the 
woodf  for  16  days,  eating  nothing  but  berries,  until  another  vessel  took  bdm  off. 
The  iiame  Bate  de  Ste.  Marie  was  given  by  Ghamplain. 

Brighton  is  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  is  a  pleasant  agricultmal  village 
with  a  small  inn.  The  hamlets  of  Barton  (<^r  Specht's  Cove)  and  GilberVs 
Cove  are  soon  passed,  and  the  stage  enters  the  pretty  village  of  Weymouth 
(two  inns),  a  seaport  which  builds  some  handsome  vessels,  and  has  a  snug 
little  trade  with  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies.  It  is  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Sissiboo  River,  on  whose  opposite  shore  is  the  Acadian  hamlet  of 
New  Edinburgh.  Across  St.  Mary's  Bay  is  the  maritime  villjige  of  Sandy 
Cove. 

The  line  now  ascends  the  r.  bank  of  the  Sissiboo  River  to  Weymouth 
Bridge  (Jones's  Hotel),  a  maritime  village  of  about  the  same  size  as  Wey- 
mouth. It  is  4  M.  from  the  mouth  of  the  river;  and  2-5  M.  to  the  E. 
are  the  Sissiboo  Falls.  The  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay  is  regained  at  Belli- 
veau Cove  (small  inn),  an  Acadian  hamlet  chieHy  devoted  to  agriculture 


I  M* 


CLARE. 


Bouie  93.     113 


snug 

bouth 

iet  of 

^andy 


and  shipbuilding.  From  this  point  down  to  Beaver  River,  and  beyond 
through  the  Tusket  and  Pubnico  regions,  the  shore  is  occupied  by  a  range 
of  hamlets  which  are  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  the  old  Acadian- 
French. 

The  Clare  Settlements  were  founded  about  1763  by  the  descendants  of  the 
Acadians  who  had  beea  exiled  to  New  England.  After  the  conquest  of  Canada  these 
unfortunate  waniiercra  were  8u£fered  to  return  to  Nova  Scotia,  but  they  found  their 
former  domains  about  the  Basin  of  Minas  already  occupied  by  the  New-Englanders. 
So  they  removed  to  the  less  fertile  but  still  pleasant  shores  of  Glare,  and  founded  new 
homes,  alternating  their  farm  labors  with  fishing-'iroyages  on  St.  Mary's  Bay  or  the 
outer  sea.  This  little  commonwealth  of  4  -  5,000  people  was  for  many  years  governed 
and  directed  by  "the  amiable  and  venerated  Abbe  Segoigne,"a  patrician  priest  who 
had  fled  from  France  during  the  Revolution  of  1793.  His  power  and  influence  were 
unlimited,  and  were  exerted  only  for  the  peace  and  well-being  of  his  people.  Under 
this  benign  guidance  the  colony  flourished  amain;  new  hamlets  arose  along  the 
shores  of  the  beautiful  bay ;  and  an  Acadian  village  was  founded  in  the  oak-groves 
of  Tusket.  M.  Segoigne  also  conciliated  the  Micmacs,  learned  their  language,  and 
was  highly  venerated  by  all  their  tribe. 

"  When  the  traveller  enters  Clare,  the  houses,  the  household  utensils,  the  foreigpi 
language,  and  the  uniform  costume  of  the  inhabitants  excite  his  surprise  ;  because 
no  parish  of  Nova  Scotia  has  such  a  distinctive  character.  The  Acadians  are  far 
behind  their  neighbors  in  modus  of  agriculture :  they  show  a  great  reluctance  to 
enter  the  forest,  and  in  place  of  advancing  upon  the  highlands,  they  subdivide  their 
lands  along  the  shore  and  keep  their  children  about  them.  They  preserve  their 
language  and  customs  with  a  singular  tenacity,  and  though  commerce  places  them 
in  constant  communication  with  the  English,  they  never  contract  marriage  with 
them,  nor  adopt  their  manners,  nor  dwell  in  their  villages.  This  conduct  is  not  due  . 
to  dislike  of  the  English  government ;  it  must  be  attributed  rather  to  ancient  usage, 
to  the  national  character,  and  to  their  systems  of  education.  But  if  they  are  infe- 
rior to  the  English  colonists  in  the  arts  which  strengthen  and  extend  the  influence 
of  society,  they  can  proudly  challenge  comparison  in  their  social  and  domestic  vir- 
tues. Without  ambition,  living  with  frugality,  they  regulate  their  life  according  to 
their  means ;  devoted  to  their  ancient  worship,  they  are  not  divided  by  religious 
discord ;  in  fine,  contented  with  their  lot  and  moral  in  their  habits  of  life,  they  en- 
joy perhaps  as  much  of  happiness  and  goodnesses  is  possible  in  the  frailty  of  human 
nature."    (Ualibubtox.) 

"  Still  stands  the  forest  primeval ;  but  under  the  shsule  of  its  branches 
Dwells  another  race,  with  other  customs  and  language. 
Only  along  ths  shore  of  the  mournful  and  misty  Atlantic 
Linger  a  few  Acadian  peasants,  whose  fathers  from  exile 
Wandered  back  to  their  native  laud  to  die  in  its  bosom. 
In  the  fisherman's  cot  the  wheel  and  the  loom  are  still  busy ; 
Maidens  still  wear  their  Norman  caps  and  their  kirtles  of  homespun, 
And  by  the  evening  fire  repeat  Evangeline's  story. 
While  from  its  rocky  caverns  the  deep-voiced  neighboring  ocean 
Speaks,  and  in  accents  disconsolate  answers  the  wail  of  the  forest." 

Longfellow's  Evangeline. 

The  road  runs  S.  W.  fron'  Belli veau  Cove  to  Grosses  Coques  (300  inhabi- 
tants) and  Port  Acadie,  Clare,  and  Saulnierville,  a  line  of  hamlets  whose 
inhabitants  are  engaged  in  farming  and  the  fisheries.  A  road  runs  7  M. 
E.  to  New  Tiisket,  an  Anglo-Acadian  village  in  the  interior,  near  the 
island-studded  Lake  Wentworth.  Meteghan  (German's  Hotel)  is  a  bay- 
side  village  of  500  inhfbitants,  nearly  all  of  whom  are  Acadians  and  farm- 
ers. There  is  a  small  church  here,  and  half-a-duzen  stores  for  country 
trade  among  the  neighboring  farmers.  Meteghan  is  the  last  village  on 
St.  Mary's  Bay,  and  the  road  now  turns  to  the  S.  and  passes  the  inland 


il : 


t 


114    nouu  is. 


YARMOUTH. 


hamlet  of  Cheticamp.  Cape  Cove  is  &n  Acadian  settlement,  and  is  finely 
situated  on  ft  headland  which  faces  the  Atlantic.  The  line  leaves  the 
vicinity  of  the  sea  and  strikes  inland  through  a  region  of  forests  and  lakes; 
reaching  Yarmouth  ahout  13  M.  S.  of  Beaver  River. 

Yarmouth  ( t7nif«d  Statcn  Hotel,  $6-8  a  week;  American  Hold)  is  a 
wealthy  and  prosperous  senport  on  th-i  S.  W.  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  is 
situated  on  a  narrow  harbor  3  M.  from  the  Atlantic.  It  has  tf,28G  in- 
habitants, with  9  churches,  2  b.'uiks,  4  local  marine-insurance  companies, 
and  2  weekly  newspapers.  It  has  a  public  library  and  a  small  museum 
of  natural  history.  The  schools  are  said  to  be  the  be^t  in  the  Fro v! nee, 
and  occupy  conspicuous  buildings  on  the  ridge  back  of  the  town.  The 
Court-House  Is  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town;  near  which  is  the  spacious 
Baptist  church,  built  in  Novanglian  architecture.  The  Epit^copal  church 
is  a  new  building,  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  ?«'ova  Scotia.  I  M.  out  is  a 
rural  ccmeteiy  of  40  acres.  Yarmouth  ^s  built  along  a  lin-r  of  low  rooky 
heights,  over  a  harbor  w]iich  is  nearly  drained  at  low  tide.  It  receives  a 
goodly  number  of  sumir.ftr  visitors,  most  of  whom  pass  into  the  Tusket 
Lakes  or  along  the  coast  to  the  E.,  in  search  of  sport. 

Yarmouth  has  been  called  the.  .rost  American  of  all  the  Provincial  towns,  and  Is 
endowed  with  the  energy  and  pertinacity  of  New  England.  Though  occupying  a 
remote  situation  on  un  indiifbrcnt  harbor,  with  a  barren  and  incapable  back  coun- 
try, this  town  has  risen  to  opuluuce  and  distinction  by  the  indomitable  induotry  of 
its  citizens.  In  1761  the  shipping  of  the  country  was  confined  to  one  25-ton  fishings 
boat ;  in  1869  it  amounted  to  284  vessels,  measuring  93,896  tons,  and  is  now  £ir  m 
advance  even  of  that  figure.  It  is  claimed  that  Yarmouth,  for  her  population,  is 
the  largest  ship-owning  port  in  the  world.  In  addition  to  these  great  commercial 
flet!5  the  town  has  estoblished  a  steamship-line  to  St.  John  and  Boston,  and  is 
building,  almost  alone,  the  Western-Counties  Railway  to  Annapolis.  It  is  expected 
that  gr>>at  benefit  will  accrue  from  the  timber-districts  which  will  be  opened  by  this 
new  line  of  travel.  "  Yarmouth's  financial  success  is  due  largely  to  the  practical 
judgment  m\A  sagacity  of  her  mariners.  She  has  reared  an  army  of  shipmasters  of 
whom  any  country  might  be  proud,"  and  it  is  claimed  that  a  large  proportion  of 
the  Cape-Ann  dshing-captains  are  native  of  this  country.  On  the  adjacent  coast, 
and  within  12  M.  of  Yarmouth,  are  thu  marine  hamlets  of  Jegoggin,  Sandford 
(Cranberry  Head),  Arcadia,  Hebron,  Hartford,  Kelley's  Cove,  Jebogue,  Darling's 
Lake  (Short  Beach),  and  Deerfielrl.  These  settlements  have  over  6,000  inhabitants 
in  the  aggregate.  The  coast  was  occupied  by  the  French  during  the  17th  century, 
but  was  afterwards  abandoned.  About  the  middle  of  the  last  century  these  de- 
serted shores  were  taken  possession  of  by  colonies  of  fishermen  from  Massachusetts 
and  Connecticut,  who  wished  to  be  nearer  their  fishing-grounds ;  and  the  present 
population  is  descended  from  these  hardy  men  and  the  Loyalists  of  1783.  The  an- 
cient Indian  name  of  Yarmouth  was  Keespoogwitk,  which  means  "  Laud's  End." 

Steamships  run  between  Yarmouth  and  Boston  once  or  twice  a  week.  When  the 
Western-Counties  Railway  is  finished  to  Annapolis,  this  will  afford  the  quickest 
route  between  Boston  and  Halifax.  The  sea  journey  firom  Boston  to  Yarmouth 
takes  19  -  20  hrs. ;  the  railway  journey  to  Halifax  will  take  9  hours  more. 


w 


Wf 


TUSKET  LAKES. 


Route  tS.        115 


The  Ttuket  Ldket  and  Archipelago, 

The  township  of  Tannouth  contains  80  lakes,  and  to  a  bird  fljring  overhead  it 
must  seem  like  a  patchwork  of  blue  and  green,  in  which  the  blue  predominates. 
They  are  nearly  all  connected  with  the  Tusket  River,  and  are  generally  small,  very 
Irregular,  and  surrounded  by  young  forests.  They  rarely  attain  the  width  of  1  M., 
and  are  strung  along  the  course  of  the  river  and  its  tributaries,  joined  by  narrow 
aisles  of  water,  and  breaking  off  into  bays  which  the  unguided  voyager  would  often 
ascend  in  mistake  for  the  main  channel  In  the  lower  Likes,  where  the  tide  flows, 
near  Argyle  Bay,  are  profitdble  eel-fisheries.  The  remoter  waters,  towards  the  Blue 
Mts.,  afford  good  trout-fishing. 

The  westerly  line  of  lakes  are  visited  from  Yarmouth  by  riding  6  M.  out 
on  the  Digby  road  and  then  turning  off  to  Deerfield,  near  the  Salmon-River 
Lakes,  or  passing  over  to  the  settlement  at  Lake  George  (12-14  M.  from 
Yarmouth),  which  is  1|(  M.  wide  and  3  -4  M.  long,  and  is  the  largest  lake  in 
the  township.    A  little  farther  N.  is  the  Acadian  settlement  at  Cedar  Lake. 

The  best  route  for  the  sportsman  is  to  follow  the  Barrington  telegraph- 
road  10  M.  N.  E.  to  Tusket  (two  inns),  a  large  and  prosperous  shipbuild- 
ing village,  with  three  churches,  near  the  head  of  ship-navigation  on  the 
Tusket  River.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  picturesque,  its  chief  feature 
being  the  many  green  islands  off  the  shores;  and  the  river  has  been  famous 
for  fisheries  of  salmon  and  gaspereaux,  now  impaired  by  the  lumber-mills 
above.  From  this  point  a  chain  of  lakes  ascends  to  the  N.  for  20  M.,  in- 
cluding the  central  group  of  the  Tuskets,  and  terminating  at  the  island- 
strewn  Lake  Wentworth.  The  best  place  is  found  by  following  the  road 
which  runs  N.  E.  15  - 18  M.,  between  Vaughan  Lake  and  Butler's  Lake, 
and  by  many  lesser  ponds,  to  the  remote  settlement  of  F'lnpt  (small  hotel), 
near  the  head-waters  of  the  central  and  western  groups.  To  the  N.  and  E. 
of  this  point  are  the  trackless  forests  and  savage  ridges  of  the  Blue  Mts., 
and  the  hunter  can  traverse  these  wilds  for  40  M.  to  the  N.  E.  (to  the  Liv- 
erpool Lakes),  or  for  30  M.  to  the  S.  E  (to  the  Shelbume  settlements), 
without  meeting  any  permanent  evidences  of  civilization. 

The  ancient  Indian  tradition  tells  that  squirrels  were  once  very  numerous  in  this 
region,  and  grew  to  an  enormous  size,  endangering  the  lives  of  men.  But  the  Oreat 
Spirit  ouce  appeared  to  a  blameless  patriarch  of  the  Micmacs,  and  offered  to  reward 
his  virtue  by  granting  his  utmost  desire.  After  long  meditation  the  chief  asked  the 
Divine  Visitor  to  bless  the  land  by  taking  the  power  from  the  mighty  squirrels,  upon 
which  the  mandate  was  iSv^ued  and  the  dreaded  animals  shrank  to  their  present  in- 
significant size.  And  hence  it  is  known  that  ever  since  that  day  the  squirrel  has 
been  querulous  at  the  sight  of  man. 

This  great  forest  was  formerly  the  paradise  of  moose-hunters,  but  is  now  closed 
to  that  sport  by  the  recent  Provincial  law  which  forbids  the  killing  of  moose  for  the 
next  three  years.  Poaching  is,  of  course,  quite  possible,  since  the  forest  cannot  be 
studded  with  game-keepers ;  but  men  of  culture  and  foresight  will  doubtless  approve 
the  action  of  the  government,  and  will  abstain  tvom  illegally  pursuing  this  noble 
game,  which  must  become  extinct  in  a  very  few  years  unless  carefully  protected. 


S.  of  Tusket  village  are  the  beautiful  groups  of  the  Tusket  Islei,  stud- 
ding the  waters  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  Abuptic  Harbor.  Like  most  other 
collections  of  islands  on  this  continent,  they  are  popularly  supposed  to  be 


116      RouUfi4' 


DIGBY  NECK. 


866  in  number,  though  they  do  not  claim  to  possess  an  intercalary  islet 
like  that  on  h^kQ  George  (New  York),  which  appears  only  every  fourth 
year.  The  Tuskcts  vary  in  size  from  Morris  Island,  which  is  8  M.  long, 
down  to  the  smallest  tuft-crowned  rocks,  and  afford  a  great  diversity  of 
scenery.  The  outer  fringe  of  the  archipelago  is  threaded  by  the  Halifax 
and  Yarmouth  steamship  (see  page  125). 

*'  The  scenery  of  Argyle  Bay  is  extremely  beautiftil  of  its  kind ;  innumerable 
islands  and  peninsulaa  enclose  the  water  in  every  direction Cottages  and  cul- 
tivated land  break  the  masses  of  forest,  and  the  masts  of  small  fishing'Tessels  peep- 
ing up  from  every  little  cove  attest  the  multiplied  resources  \rhich  Nature  has  pro- 
vided for  the  supply  of  the  inhabitants."    (Capt.  Moorson.) 

Among  these  narrow  {Msses  hundreds  of  Acadians  took  refuge  during  the  persecu- 
tions of  1758  -  60.  A  British  frigate  was  sent  down  to  hunt  them  out,  but  one  of  her 
boats'  crews  was  destroyed  by  the  fugitives  among  the  islands,  and  they  were  not 
dislodged.  There  are  now  two  or  three  hamlets  of  Acadians  m  the  r^on  of  the 
upper  lakes. 

[The  Editor  deprecates  the  meagreness  of  the  foregoing  account  of  the  Tusket 
Lakes.  It  was  too  late  in  the  season,  when  he  arrived  at  Yarmouth,  to  make  the 
tour  of  this  district,  and  the  landlord  of  the  United  States  Hotel,  the  best  authority 
on  the  sporting  lacilities  of  the  lake-country,  was  then  attending  a  party  of  Boston 
sportsmen  among  the  Blue  Mts.  The  foregoing  statements  about  the  district, 
though  obtained  fjrom  the  best  accessible  sources  of  information,  arc  therefore  given 
under  reserve ;  arid  it  would  be  best  for  gentlemen  who  wish  to  summer  among  the 
Tuskets  to  make  inquiries  by  letter  of  the  proprietor  of  the  United  States  Hotel, 
Yarmouth,  N.  S.] 

21   Digby  Neck. 

Tri-weekly  stages  leave  Digby  for  this  remote  corner  of  Nova  Scotia.  Fare  to 
Sandy  Cove,  $  1.50 ;  to  West  Port,  $  2. 

Distances.  —  Digby  to  Rossway,  8>^  M. ;  Waterford,  12 ;  Centreville,  15 ;  Lake- 
side, 17;  Sandy  Cove,  20;  Little  River,  25;  Petite  Passage,  80;  Free  Port;  West 
Port,  40. 

The  stage  runs  S.  W.  from  Digby,  leaving  the  settlements  of  Marshall- 
town  and  Brighton  on  the  1.,  across  the  Smelt  River.  The  first  hamlet 
reached  is  Rossway,  whence  a  road,  crosses  to  Gulliver's  Cove  on  the  Bay 
of  Fundy.  For  over  20  M.  the  road  descends  the  remarkable  peninsula 
of  Digby  Neck,  whose  average  width,  from  bay  to  bay,  is  about  IJ  M. 
On  the  1.  is  the  continuous  range  of  dark  hills  which  marks  the  W.  end 
of  the  North  Mt.  range,  where  it  is  sinking  towards  the  sea.  Among  these 
hills  are  found  fine  specimens  of  agate  and  jasper,  apd  the  views  from  their 
summits  (when  not  hidden  by  trees)  reveal  broad  and  brilliant  stretches 
of  blue  water  on  either  side.  Fogs  are,  however,  very  prevalent  here,  and 
are  locally  supposed  to  be  rather  health}'  than  otherwise.  On  the  1.  of  the 
road  are  the  broad  waters  of  St.  Mary's  Bay,  far  beyond  which  are  the 
low  and  rugged  Blue  Mts. 

Sandy  Cove  (small  inn)  is  the  metropolis  of  Digby  Neck,  and  has  400 
inhabitants  and  two  churches.  Its  people  live  by  farming  and  fishing, 
and  support  a  fortnightly  packet-boat  to  St.  John,  N.  B.  4  M.  S.  E., 
across  St.  Mary's  Bay,  is  the  port  of  Weymouth  (see  page  112).  Beyond 
Little  River  village  the  stage  crosses  the  ridge,  and  the  passenger  passes 


^F 


^I' 


NOVA-SCOTIA  COAST.        JRmUetS.        117 

the  Petite  Passage^  which  separates  DIgby  Neck  from  Long  Island.  This 
strait  is  quite  deep  and  1  M.  wide,  and  has  a  red-and-white  flashing  light 
on  its  N.  W.  point  (Boar's  Head).  On  the  opposite  shore  of  the  passage 
is  a  village  of  390  inhabitants  (mostly  fishermen),  and  the  stage  now  runs 
down  Long  Island  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy  side.  If  there  is  no  fog  the  view 
across  the  bay  is  pleasing,  and  is  usually  enlivened  by  the  sails  of  passing 
vessels.  Long  Island  is  about  10  M.  long,  and  2  M.  wide,  and  its  village 
of  Free  Port  has  700  inhabitants. 

Near  the  end  of  Long  Island  another  ferrj-'-boat  is  taken,  and  the  trav- 
eller crosses  the  Grand  Passage  to  West  Port  (Denton's  notel)^  a  village 
of  600  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  fishermen,  shipbuilders,  or  sea- 
captains.  This  town  is  on  Brier  Island,  the  S.  E.  portal  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,  and  is  6  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide.  On  its  E.  side  are  two  fixed  white 
lights,  and  on  the  W.  are  a  fog-whistle  and  a  powerful  white  light  visible 
for  15  M. 

25.  Hali£uc  to  Yaxmouth.— The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Nova 

Scotia. 

The  steamers  of  Fishwick's  Express  Line  ply  along  the  coast  of  Nova 
Scotia,  leaving  Halifax  for  Yarmouth  weekly.  Another  vessel  of  this 
line  plies  between  Halifax,  Cape  Canso,  Guysborough,  Port  Hastings, 
Port  Mulgrave,  and  Antigonish,  giving  access  to  all  the  North-Shore  ports, 
and  connecting  with  the  Bras  d'Or  steamboats,  for  Cape  Breton. 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Lunenburg,  $2 ;  to  Liverpool,  $8.50 ;  to  Shelbume,  $4.60 ; 
to  Yarmouth,  $6.  Lunenburg  to  Liverpool,  $3;  to  Shelbume,  $8.50;  to  Yar- 
mouth, $4.50.  Liverpool  to  Shelbume,  $ 2 ;  to  Yarmouth,  S 3.50-  Shelbume  to 
Yarmouth,  $2.50.    Bertha  are  included  in  these  prices,  but  the  meals  are  extra.. 

"The  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,  from  Gape  Canso  to  Cape  Sable,  is  pierced 
\rith  innumerable  small  bays,  harbors,  and  rivers.  The  shores  are  lined  vrith  rocks 
and  thousands  of  islands ;  and  although  no  part  of  the  country  can  properly  be  con- 
sidered mountainous,  and  there  are  but  few  steep  high  cliffs,  yet  the  aspect  of  the 
tvhole,  if  not  romantically  sublime,  is  exceedingly  picturesque ;  and  the  scenery,  in 
many  places,  is  richly  beautiful..  The  landscape  which  the  head  of  Mahone  Bay, in 
particular,  presents  can  scarcely  be  surpafiRcd."     (M'GRGGoa's  British  America.) 

"  The  jagged  outline  of  this  coa.st,  as  f^een  upon  the  map,  reminds  na  of  the  equally 
indented  Atlantic  shores  of  Scandinavia ;  and  the  character  of  the  coast  as  he  sails 
along  it —  the  rocky  surface,  the  scanty  herbage,  and  the  endless  pine  forests  —  re- 
call to  the  traveller  the  appearance  and  natural  productions  of  the  same  European 
country."    (Prof.  Johnston.) 

The  steamer  passes  down  Halifax  Harbor  (see  page  98),  and  gains  the 
open  sea  beyond  Chebucto  Head  and  the  lighthouse  on  Sambro  Island. 
She  usually  makes  a  good  offing  before  turning  down  the  coast,  in  order  to 
avoid  the  far-reaching  and  dangerous  Sambro  Ledges.  W.  of  the  open 
light  of  Pennant  Bay  is  Mars  Head,  on  whose  fatal  rocks  the  ocean  steam- 
ship Atlantic  was  wrecked. 


118       JtoiOegS. 


LUNENBURG. 


This  line  of  coast  has  been  flunous  for  Its  murine  disasters.  In  1779  the  British 
war-vessels  North  and  HeUna  were  wrecked  near  Sambro,  and  170  men  were  drowned. 
Mars  Head  deriveB  itH  name  from  the  fact  that  the  British  line-of- battle  ship  Mars, 
70  guns,  was  wrecked  upon  its  black  ledges.  In  1779  the  American  war-vessel  Vtjper, 
22,  attacked  II.  M.  S.  Resolution,  Just  oil'  8ambro,  and  captured  her  after  a  long  and 
desperate  battle,  in  which  both  ships  were  badly  cut  to  pieces.  Caije  Sambro  was 
named  by  the  marinerH  of  St.  Malo  ca'-ly  in  the  17th  century ;  and  it  is  thought  that 
the  present  form  of  the  name  is  a  corruption  of  St.  Cendre,  the  original  designation. 
The  ancient  Latin  book  called  the  Novus  Orbis  (published  by  Elzevir ;  Amsterdam, 
1683)  says  that  the  islands  between  Cape  Sambro  ( Sesambre)  and  Mahone  Bay  were 
called  the  Martyrs'  Isles,  on  account  of  the  Frenchnien  who  had  there  been  mao- 
Bacred  by  the  heathen  Indians. 

Beyond  Cape  Prospect  the  deep  indentations  of  St.  Margaret's  Bay  and, 
Mahone  Bay  make  in  on  the  K.,  and 

"  breeiy  Aipotogon 
Lifts  high  its  summit  blue." 

The  roughest  water  of  the  voyage  is  usually  found  while  crossing  the 
openings  of  these  bays.  The  course  is  laid  for  Cross  Island,  where  there 
are  two  lights,  one  of  which  is  visible  for  14  M.  Passing  close  in  by  thia 
island,  the  steamer  enters  that  pretty  bay  which  was  formerly  known  to 
the  Indians  as  Malagash,  or  "Milky,"  on  account  of  the  whiteness  of  its 
stormy  surf.  At  the  head  of  this  bay  the  white  and  compact  town  of 
Lunenburg  is  seen  between  two  round  green  hills.  The  steamer  passes 
around  the  outermost  of  these,  and  enters  the  snug  little  harbor. 

"  The  town  of  Lunenburg  is  situated  at  the  innermost  extremity  of  a  peninsula, 
and  to  a  military  traveller  presents  a  more  formidable  aspect  than  any  other  in  Nova 
Scotia,  the  upper  houses  being  placed  on  the  crests  of  steep  glacis  slopes,  so  as  to 
bear  upon  all. approaches."    (Capt.  MooasoN.) 

Lunenburg  {King's  Hotel)  is  a  thriving  little  seaport,  situated  on  a  se- 
cure and  spacious  harbor,  and  enjoying  a  lucrative  West-India  trade. 
Together  with  its  immediate  environs,  it  has  4,000  inhabitants,  of  whom 
over  half  are  in  the  port  itself.  The  German  character  of  the  citizens  is 
still  retained,  though  not  so  completely  as  in  their  rural  settlements ;  and 
the  principal  churches  are  Luthoran.  The  public  buildings  of  Lunenburg 
County  are  located  here.  A  large  trade  in  lumbe  and  fish  is  carried  on,  in 
addition  to  the  southern  exports.  There  are  numerous  farming  communi- 
ties of  Gennanic  origin  in  the  vicinity;  and  the  shore-roads  exhibit  at- 
tractive phases  of  marine  scenery.  7  M.  distant  is  the  beautifully  situated 
village  of  Mahone  Bay  (see  Route  26) ;  4  M.  distant  are  the  remarkable  sea- 
side ledges  called  the  Blue  Rocks ;  to  the  S.  E.  is  the  rural  settlement  of 
Lunenburg  Peninsula,  off  which  are  the  sea-girt  farms  of  Heckman*s 
Island  ;  and  12  M.  distant  is  the  gold  district  of  The  Ovens. 

This  site  was  anciently  occupied  by  the  Indian  village  of  Malagash.  In  1745  the 
British  government  issued  a  proclamation  inviting  German  Protestants  to  emigrate 
to  Nova  Scotia  and  take  up  its  unoccupied  lands  In  1753,  200  families  of  Germans 
and  Swl  »  settled  at  Lunenburg,  and  were  provided  with  farming  implements  and 
three  yt'«rs'  provisions  by  the  government.  They  fortified  their  new  domains  as 
well  as  possible,  but  many  of  the  people  were  killed  by  Indians  lurking  in  the  woods. 
The  settlement  was  thus  held  in  check  until  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  when  the 
Indians  ceased  hostilitieB.    In  1777  the  town  was  attacked  by  two  American  prita- 


t 


IRONBOUND  ISLAND.        RouU  95.       119 

teen,  who  landed  detachments  of  anii'  men  and  occupied  the  principal  bvildlngs. 
After  plundering  the  place  and  securing  a  valuable  booty,  these  unwelcome  Tisiton 
sailed  away  n^toicing,  leaving  Lunenburg  to  put  on  the  robes  of  war  and  anxiooslj 
yearn  for  another  naval  attack,  for  whone  reception  spirited  provisions  were  made. 

Among  the  people  throughout  this  county  German  customs  are  still  preserved,  as 
at  weddings  and  funerals ;  the  German  language  is  spoken  ;  and  sermons  are  delir- 
ered  oftentimes  in  the  same  tongue.  The  cows  are  made  to  do  service  in  ploughing, 
and  the  farming  implements  are  of  a  primitive  pattern.  A  large  portion  of  the  out- 
door work  in  the  fields  is  done  by  the  women,  who  are  generally  strong  and  muscular. 

The  steamer  leaves  Lunenburg  Harbor,  passes  Battery  Point  and  its 
lighthouse  on  the  1.,  and  descends  between  the  knob-like  hills  of  the  outer 
harbor.  On  the  r.  are  the  shores  of  the  remarkable  peninsula  of  The 
Ovens  (distant  from  Lunenburg,  by  road,  10  - 12  M.).  The  low  cliffs  along 
this  shore  are  pierced  by  numerous  caverns,  three  of  which  are  70  ft.  wide 
at  their  mouths  and  over  200  ft.  deep.  The  sea  dashes  into  these  dark 
recesses  during  a  heavy  swell  with  an  amazing  roar,  broken  by  deep 
booming  reverberations.  Certain  features  in  the  formation  of  these  caves 
have  led  to  the  supposition  that  they  were  made  by  human  labor,  though 
the  theorists  do  not  state  the  probable  object  for  which  they  were  exca- 
vated. In  1861  gold  was  discovered  on  the  Oven?  peninsula,  and  2,000 
ounces  were  obtained  during  that  autumn,  since  which  the  mining  fever 
has  subsided,  and  no  earnest  work  has  been  done  here.  The  precious  metal 
was  obtained  chiefly  by  washing,  and  but  little  was  effected  in  the  way 
of  quartz-crushing. 

Beyond  Ovens  Head  the  pretty  circular  indentation  of  Rose  Bay  is  seen 
on  the  r.,  on  whose  shores  is  a  settlement  of  250  German  farmers.  The 
steamer  now  passes  between  Cross  Island  (1.)  and  Rose  Head,  which  are 
about  2  M.  apart,  and  enters  the  Atlantic.  When  a  sufficient  offing  has 
been  made,  the  course  is  laid  S.  W.  ^  W.  for  8|  M.  Point  £nrag6  is  soon 
passed,  and  then  the  vessel  approaches  *  Ironbound  Island.  This  re- 
markable rock  is  about  \  M.  long,  and  rises  from  the  sea  on  all  sides  in 
smooth  curves  of  dark  and  iron-like  rock,  on  which  the  mighty  surges 
of  the  Atlantic  are  broken  into  great  sheets  of  white  and  hissing  foam. 
Upon  this  dangerous  outpost  of  Nova  Scotia  there  is  a  revolving  light, 
which  is  visible  for  13  M.  Beyond  Ironbound,  on  the  r .,  is  seen  the  deep 
estuary  of  the  Lahave  River,  which  is  navigable  to  Bridge  water,  a  distance 
of  13  M.,  passing  for  12  M.  through  the  hamlets  of  New  Dublin,  and  thence 
through  a  valley  between  high  and  knob-like  hills. 

At  Fort  La  Heve  in  1636-7,  died  Isaac  de  Razilly,  "  Knight  Commander  of  the 
Order  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  Lieutenant-Genera  1  of  Acodie,  and  Captain  of  the 
West."  He  was  a  relative  of  Cardinal  Richelieu,  and  had  fought  in  the  campaigns 
of  La  Rochelle  and  the  coast  of  Morocco.  In  1642  D'Aulnay  purchased  these  do- 
mains from  Claude  de  Razilly,  but  soon  evacuated  the  place,  removing  the  people  to 
Port  Royal.  By  1654  the  colony  had  recovered  itself,  having  "  undoubtedly  the 
best  port  and  the  best  soil  in  the  whole  country."  It  waa  then  attacked  by  the 
Sieur  le  Borgne,  who  burned  all  its  houses  and  the  chapel.  At  a  later  day  the  new 
Fort  La  H6ve  was  attacked  by  a  strong  force  of  New-England  troops,  who  were 
beaten  off  several  times  with  the  loss  of  some  of  their  best  men.  Bat  the  brave 
Frenchmen  were  finally  forced  to  surrender,  and  the  place  was  reduced  to  ruins. 
In  1706  the  settlement  was  again  destroyed  by  Boston  privateem. 


120       JtoutetS. 


LIVERPOOL. 


When  off  Cape  Lahare  the  steamer  takes  a  coarse  W.  by  S.,  whVV  is 
followed  for  16§  M.  The  fishing  hamlet  of  Broad  Cove  is  on  the  SiK^re 
S.  W.  of  Cape  Lahave;  and  when  about  9  M.  from  the  cape,  the  entrance 
of  Port  Medway  is  seen.  This  harbor  is  4  M.  long  and  1^  M.  wide,  and 
receives  the  waters  of  the  Port  Medway  and  Pedley  Rivers.  Port  Med- 
way (Dunphy's  Hotel)  is  on  its  W.  shore,  and  has  600  inhabitants,  who 
are  engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  lumbering. 

The  steamer  soon  rounds  the  revolving  red  light  (visible  16  M.)  on  Cof- 
fin's Island,  and  turns  to  the  N.  W.  up  Liverpool  Bay.  The  shores  are 
well  inhabited,  with  the  settlement  of  Moose  Harbor  on  the  1.,  and  Brook- 
lyn (or  Herring  Cove)  on  the  r.  The  lighthouse  on  Fort  Point  is  rounded 
and  the  vessel  enters  the  mouth  of  the  Liverpool  River,  with  a  line  of 
wharves  on  the  1.,  and  the  bridge  in  advance. 

Liyerpool  ( Village  Green  Hotel,  a  comfortable  summer-house;  and  two 
other  inns)  is  a  flourishing  seaport  with  8,102  inhabitants,  5  churches,  a 
weekly  paper,  and  a  bank.  Its  principal  industries  are  lumbering,  fish- 
ing, and  shipbuilding.  The  town  occupies  the  rocky  shore  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Liverpool  River,  and  its  streets  are  adorned  with  numerous  large 
shade  trees.  Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place,  either  on  account 
of  its  own  attractions,  or  to  seek  the  trout  on  the  adjacent  streams  and 
lakes  (see  Route  27).  There  are  pleasant  drives  also  on  the  Mill- Village 
Road,  and  around  the  shores  of  the  bay. 

Liverpool  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Indian  domain  of  Ogumkegnolc,  made 
classic  in  the  traditions  of  the  Micmacs  by  the  celebrated  encounter  which  took 
place  here  between  the  divine  Glooscap  (see  page  106)  and  the  great  Forceress  of  the 
Atlantic  coast.  The  struggle  of  craft  and  malevolence  against  superior  power  are 
quaintly  narrated,  though  taking  forms  not  pleasing  to  refined  minds,  and  the  con- 
test ends  in  the  defeat  of  the  hag  of  Ogumkegeok,  who  is  rent  in  pieces  by  the 
hunting-dogs  of  Olooscap. 

In  May,  1604,  the  harbor  of  Liverpool  was  entered  by  Pierre  du  Ouast,  "  Sieur  de 
Monts  of  Saintonge,  Gentleman  in  Ordinary  of  the  Chamber,  and  Governor  of  Pone," 
who  had  secured  a  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade  between  40°  and  54°  N.  latitude.  He 
found  a  ship  here  trading  without  authority,  and  confiscated  her,  naming  the  har- 
bor Port  Rossignol,  after  her  captain,  **  as  though  M.  de  Monts  had  wished  to  make 
Bouie  compensation  to  the  man  for  the  loss  he  inflicted  on  him,  by  immortalizing 
his  name."  This  designation  did  not  hold  to  the  harbor,  but  has  been  transferred 
to  the  large  and  beautiful  lake  near  the  head-waters  of  the  Liverpool  River 

About  1634  a  shore-fishery  was  established  here  by  M.  Denys  and  Gov.  Razilly. 
This  enterprise  was  for  a  long  time  successful,  but  was  finally  crippled  by  the  cap- 
ture of  its  heavily  laden  freighting-ship  by  the  Portuguese.  Soon  afterward  Denys 
•was  forced  to  leave  Port  Rossignol  on  account  of  the  machinations  of  D'Aulnay 
Charnisay,  and  the  settlement  was  broken  up.  By  the  year  1760  a  thriving  village 
stood  on  this  site,  and  in  the  War  of  1812  many  active  privateers  were  fitted  out  here. 
In  1882  the  port  owned  25,000  tons  of  shipping. 

On  leaving  Liverpool  Bay  the  steamer  rounds  Western  Head  and  runs 
S.  W.  i  S.  14  M.  On  the  r.  is  the  deep  embayment  of  Port  Mouton, 
partly  sheltered  by  Mouton  Island,  and  lighted  by  a  fixed  red  light  on 
Spectacle  Island.  At  its  head  is  the  farming  and  fishing  settlement  of 
Port  Montoilt  "^i^  850  inhabitants.  This  inlet  was  visited  by  the  ex- 
ploring ship  of  the  Sienr  de  Monts  in  1604|  and  received  the  name  which 


^ 


f 


V 


i 


Bazilly. 
the  cap- 
i  Denya 
'Aulnay 
Tillage 
ut  here. 


id  runs 
niouton, 
jght  on 
jent  of 
[he  ex- 
wbich 


„ 


SHEL6UKNE. 


Route  U.        121 


t 


i 


it  still  bears  becanra  a  Rheep  here  leaped  from  the  deck  into  the  bay  and 
was  drowned.  The  shores  were  settled  in  1783  by  the  disbanded  veterans 
of  Tarleton's  Legion,  who  had  done  such  valiant  service  in  the  Carolinas. 

In  July,  1622,  Sir  William  Alexander's  pioneer-ship  entered  Port  Monton,  "  and 
discovered  three  very  pleasant  harbors  and  went  ashore  in  one  of  them,  which,  after 
the  ship's  name,  they  called  Lulce's  Bay,  where  they  found,  a  great  way  up,  a  very 
pleasant  river,  being  three  fathoms  deep  at  the  entry  thereof,  and  on  every  side  of 
the  same  they  did  Ree  very  delicate  meadows,  having  Roses  white  and  red  growing 
thereon,  with  a  kind  of  white  Lily ,  which  had  a  dainty  smell."  These  shores,  which 
were  hardly  so  fair  a.<<  the  old  mariner  painted  them,  were  noon  occupied  by  a  French 
post,  after  whose  destruction  they  remained  in  solitude  for  over  a  century. 

On  Little  Hope  Island  is  a  revolving  red  light,  beyond  which  the  steamer 
rnns  W.  S.  VV.  15  M. ;  then  Port  Joli  opens  to  the  N.  W.,  on  which  is  a 
fishing-village  of  200  inhabitants.  About  3  M.  beyond  is  Port  Herbert^  a 
deep  and  narrow  estuary  with  another  maritime  hamlet.  Farther  W.  is 
the  mouth  of  Sable  River ;  but  the  steamer  holds  a  course  too  far  out  to 
distinguish  much  of  these  low  shores.  34  M.  N.  is  Ram  Island,  W.  of 
which  are  the  ledges  off  Ragged  Island  Harbor,  at  whose  head  is  a  village 
of  350  inhabitants.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor  is  Lockers  Island  (two 
inns),  a  prosperous  little  port  of  400  inhabitants,  whence  the  West-India 
trade  and  the  Bank  fisheries  are  carried  on.  During  the  season  of  1874 
70,000  quintals  offish  (valued  at  $260,000)  were  exported  from  this  point. 
On  Carter's  Island  is  a  fixed  red  light,  and  the  sea-swept  ledge  of  GuU 
Bock  lies  outside  of  the  harbor,  and  has  a  powerful  white  light.  Beyond 
Western  Head  the  steamer  runs  across  the  wide  estuaries  of  Green  Harbor 
and  the  Jordan  River,  on  whose  shores  are  four  maritime  hamlets.  The 
course  is  changed  to  N.  W.  ^  N.,  and  Bony's  and  Government  Points  are 
passed  on  the  r.  On  the  1.  Cape  Roseway  is  approached,  on  which  are 
two  fixed  white  lights,  visible  for  10  and  18  M.,  standing  in  a  black-and- 
white  striped  tower.  Passing  between  Surf  Point  and  Sand  Point  the  ves- 
sel turns  N.  by  E.,  leaving  Birchtown  Bay  on  the  1.,  and  runs  up  to  Shel- 
bume.  The  last  few  miles  are  traversed  between  the  picturesque  shores 
of  a  bay  which  an  enthusiastic  mariner  has  called  "  the  best  in  the  world, 
except  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  in  Australia." 

Shelburne  {Port  Roseway  House ;  English  and  American  Hotel)  is  the  cap- 
ital of  Shelburne  County,  and  has  over  1,000  inhabitants  and  5  churches. 
It  is  engaged  chiefly  in  fishing  and  shipbuilding,  and  excels  in  the  latter 
branch  of  business.    The  harbor  is  9  M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide,  and  has 
5-7  fathoms  of  water,  without  any  shoals  or  flats.    It  is  completely  land- 
locked, but  can  never  attain  any  commercial  importance,  owing  to  the 
^v     fact  that  it  is  frozen  solid  during  the  winter,  there  being  no  river  currents 
^^or  strong  tides  to  agitate  the  water.    There  are  granite-ledges  near  the 
Village,  and  the  Roseway  River  empties  into  the  bay  1  M.  distant.    Birch' 
town  is  5  M.  from  Shelburne,  and  is  at  the  head  of  a  branch  of  the  bay.  It 
is  inhabited  by  the  descendants  of  the  negro  slaves  brought  from  Mary- 
land and  Virginia  by  the  Loyalist  refugees,  in  1788.    The  country  back 
6 


122       Jt(yute  es. 


PORT  LATOUR. 


■  ,i 


of  Shelbume  is  unimproved,  and  the  roads  soon  terminate  in  the  great  for- 
ests about  the  Blue  Mts.  Stages  run  from  this  town  E.  and  W.  Fares, 
Slielburne  to  Liverpool,  $2.50;  to  Harrington,  $1.50;  to  Yarmouth,  $4. 

"  The  town  of  Shelbiirne  ia  situated  at  the  N.  extremity  of  a  beautiful  inlet,  10  M. 
In  length  and  2-3  M  in  breadth,  in  which  the  whole  royal  navy  of  Great  Britain 
might  lie  completely  landlocked."  In  1783  large  numbers  of  American  Loya'i!>ts 
settled  here,  hoping  to  erect  a  great  city  on  this  unrivalled  harbor.  They  brought 
their  servants  and  equipages,  and  established  a  cultured  metropolitan  society.  Shel- 
bume soon  ran  ahead  of  Halifax,  and  measures  were  taken  to  transfer  the  Feat  of 
government  here.  Within  one  year  the  primeval  forest  was  replaced  by  a  city  of 
12,000  inhabitants  (of  whom  1,200  were  negroes).  The  obscure  hamlet  which  had 
been  founded  here  (under  the  name  of  New  Jerusalem)  in  1764  was  replaced  by  a 
metropolis ;  and  Gov.  Parr  soon  entered  the  bay  on  the  frigate  La  Sophie,  amid  the 
roaring  of  saluting  batteries,  and  named  the  new  city  Shelliurue.  But  the  place 
had  no  rural  back-country  to  supply  and  be  enriched  By  ;  and  the  colonists,  mostly 
patricians  from  the  Atlantic  cities,  could  not  and  would  not  engage  in  the  fisheries. 
The  money  which  they  had  brought  from  their  old  home?  was  at  last  exhausted,  and 
then  "  Shelbume  dwindled  into  insignificance  almost  as  rapidly  as  it  had  risen  to 
notoriety."  Many  of  its  people  returned  contritely  to  the  United  States;  and  the 
population  here  soon  sank  to  400.  "  It  is  only  the  sight  of  a  few  large  storehouses, 
with  decayed  timbers  and  window-frames,  standing  near  the  wharves,  that  will  lead 
him  to  conclude  that  those  wharves  must  once  have  teemed  with  shipmasters  and 
Eailors.  The  streets  of  the  town  are  changed  into  avenues  bounded  by  stone  fences 
on  either  side,  in  which  grass  plants  contest  the  palm  of  supremacy  with  stones." 
Within  two  years  over  $2,500,000  were  sunk  in  the  founding  of  Shelbume. 

The  steamer  leaves  Shelburne  by  the  same  course  on  which  she  entered, 
with  the  stunted  forests  of  McNutt's  Island  on  the  r.  Rounding  Cape 
Hoseway  within  1  M.  of  the  lights,  she  runs  down  by  Gray's  Island,  pass- 
ing Round  Bay  and  the  hamlet  of  Black  Point,  on  the  bold  headland  of 
the  same  name.  Negro  Island  is  then  seen  on  the  r.,  and  is  occupied  by 
a  population  of  fishermen;  while  its  N.  E.  point  has  a  powerful  red-and- 
white  flashing  light.  Inside  of  this  island  is  the  broad  estuary  of  the  Clyde 
River,  and  near  by  is  the  large  and  picturesque  fishing-village  of  Cape 
Negro.  Cape  Negro  was  so  named  by  Champlain,  in  1604,  "  on  account 
of  a  rock  which  at  a  distance  resembles  one."  The  steamer  then  passes 
the  Salvage  Rocks,  off  Blanche  Island  (Point  Jeffreys),  and  opens  the 
broad  bay  of  Port  Latour  on  the  N.  W.  This  haven  was  the  scene  of 
stirring  events  during  the  17th  century,  and  the  remains  of  the  fort  of 
Claude  de  la  Tour  are  still  visible  here. 

"  Claude  Turgis  de  St.  Estienne,  Sieur  de  la  Tour,  of  the  province  of  Champagne, 
quitted  Paris,  taking  with  him  his  son  Charles  Amador,  *hen  14  years  old,  to  settle 
in  Acadia,  near  Poutrincourt,  wlio  was  then  engaged  in  founding  Port  Royal."  17 
years  afterwards,  Charles  succeeded  to  the  government  on  the  death  of  Biencourt, 
Poutrincourt's  son,  and  for  4  years  held  Fort  St.  Louis,  in  the  present  Port  Latour. 
Meantime  Claude  had  been  captured  by  the  English  and  carried  to  London,  where 
he  was  knighted,  and  t'len  niarri(.'d  one  of  the  Queen's  maids-of-honor.  Being  a 
Huguenot,  he  was  the  more  easily  seduced  from  his  allegiance  to  France,  and  he 
offered  to  the  King  to  procure  the  surrender  of  Fort  St.  Louis  (the  only  French  post 
then  held  in  Acadia)  to  the  English  So  he  sailed  to  Nova  Scotia  with  two  frigates, 
and  asked  his  son  to  yield  up  the  stronghold,  offering  him  high  honors  at  London 
and  the  supreme  command  in  Acadia,  on  behalf  of  the  English  power.  "  Claude  at 
once  told  his  father  that  he  was  mistaken  in  supposing  him  capable  of  giving  up  the 
place  to  the  enemies  of  the  state.  That  he  would  preserve  it  for  the  king  his  master 
while  he  had  a  breath  of  life.    That  he  esteemed  highly  the  dtgnitieB  offered  Um  by 


CAPE  SABLE. 


Route  S5.        123 


4 


the  English  king,  but  should  not  buy  them  at  the  price  of  treason.  That  the  prince 
he  served  waa  able  to  requite  him ;  and  if  not,  that  fidelity  was  its  own  best  recom- 
pense." The  father  employed  affectionate  intercession  and  bold  menace,  alike  in 
vain ;  and  the  English  naval  commander  then  landed  his  forces,  but  was  severely 
repulsed  from  the  fort,  and  finally  gave  up  the  siege.  A  traitor  to  France  and  a 
cause  of  disaster  to  England,  the  unfortunate  La  Tour  dared  not  return  to  Europe, 
but  advised  his  patrician  wife  to  go  back  with  the  fleet,  since  naught  now  remained 
for  him  but  penury  and  misery.  The  noble  lady  replied,  "  that  she  had  not  married 
him  to  abandon  him.  That  wherever  he  should  take  her,  and  in  whatever  condi- 
tion he  might  be  placed,  she  would  always  be  his  faithful  companion,  and  that  all 
her  happiness  would  consist  in  softening  his  grief."  He  then  threw  himself  on  the 
clemency  of  his  son,  who  tempered  filial  affection  with  military  vigilance,  and  wel- 
comed the  elder  La  Tour,  with  his  family,  servants,  and  equipage,  giving  him  a  house 
and  liberal  subsistence,  but  making  and  enforcing  the  condition  that  neither  himself 
nor  his  wife  should  ever  enter  Fort  St.  Louis.  There  they  lived  in  happiness  and 
comfort  for  many  years.    (See  also  page  19.) 

The  hamlet  of  Port  Latour  is  seen  on  the  inner  shore,  and  the 
vessel  rounds  the  long  low  promontory  of  Baccaro  Point,  on  which  is  a 
small  village  and  a  fixed  red  light  (visible  12  M.).  On  the  W.  is  Cape 
Sable  Island,  which  is  7  M.  long  and  2  -  3  M.  wide,  and  has  a  population 
of  1,636,  with  three  churches.  Its  first  settlers  were  the  French  Acadians, 
who  had  prosperous  little  hamlets  on  the  shores.  In  August,  1768,  400 
soldiers  of  the  35th  British  Regiment  landed  here  and  destroyed  the  settle- 
ments, and  carried  priest  and  people  away  to  Halifax.  About  1784  the 
island  was  occupied  by  Loyalists  from  the  New-England  coasts,  whose  de- 
scendants are  daring  and  adventurous  mariners.  Cape  Sable  is  on  an 
outer  islet  at  the  extreme  S.  point  of  the  island  and  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  is 
8-  9  M.  S.  W.  of  Baccaro  Point. 

It  is  supposed  that  Cape  Sable  and  the  adjacent  shores  were  the  ancient  lands  of 
the  Norse  discoverers,  '*  flat,  and  covered  with  wood,  and  where  white  sands  were 
far  around  where  they  went,  and  the  shore  was  low."  In  tiio  year  994  this  point  was 
visited  by  Leif,  the  son  of  Eric  the  Red,  of  Brattahlid,  in  Greenland.  He  anchored 
his  ship  off  shore  and  lauded  in  a  boat ;  and  when  he  returned  on  board  he  said : 
"  This  land  shall  be  named  after  its  qualities,  and  called  Markland  "  (woodland). 
Thence  he  sailed  southward,  and  discovered  Vinland  the  Good,  on  the  S.  shores  of 
Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island,  where  for  many  years  the  bold  Norsemen  main- 
tained colonies.  In  the  year  1007  Markland  was  again  visited  by  Thorfinn  Karlsefue, 
who,  with  160  men,  was  sailing  south  to  Vinland.  These  events  are  narrated  in  the 
ancient  Icelandic  epics  of  the  Saga  of  Eric  the  Red  and  the  Saga  of  Thorfinn  Karlsefne. 

In  1347  a  ship  arrived  at  Iceland  from  the  shores  of  Markland,  which  is  de- 
scribed by  the  Annoles  Skalholtini  and  the  Codex  Flateyensls  as  having  been 
smaller  than  any  Icelandic  coasting-  essel.  In  such  tiny  craft  did  the  fearless 
Norsemen  visit  these  iron-bound  shores. 

In  the  autumn  of  1750  there  was  a  sharp  naval  action  off  the  cape  between 
H.  M.  S.  Albany  and  the  French  war-vessel  St.  Francis.  The  engagement  lasted 
four  hours,  and  ended  in  the  surrender  of  the  St,  Francis,  whose  convoy,  however, 
escaped  and  reached  its  destination. 

In  July,  1812,  the  Salom  privateer  Polly  was  cruising  off  Cape  Sable,  when  she 
sighted  two  strange  sail,  and  bore  down  on  them,  supposing  them  to  be  merchant- 
men ;  but  one  was  a  British  sloop-of-war,  which  opened  a  hot  fire  upon  the  incau- 
tious Polly,  and  a  sharp  chase  ensued.  A  calm  commenced,  during  which  the  frig- 
ate's boats  and  launch  attacked  the  privateer,  but  were  repulsed  by  heavy  dis- 
chaiges  of  musketry  and  langrage.  The  Polly  mndo  her  escape,  and  during  the 
chase  and  action  the  convoy  of  the  frigate  had  been  captured  by  the  privateer  Mad- 
ison, and  was  sent  into  Salem. 

In  the  same  vicinity  (Aug.  1, 1812)  the  Rhode-Island  privateer  Yankee  captured 
the  British  ship  Royal  Bounty,  10  guns,  alter  a  battle  of  one  hour's  duration.    The 


■ttfaauEBiMUi 


124       Route  £5. 


BARRINGTON. 


priyateer's  broadsides  were  delivered  with  great  precision,  and  150  of  her  shot  struck 
the  enemy,  while  the  fire  of  the  Royal  Bounty,  though  rapid  and  heavy,  was  nearly 
ineffective.  The  shattered  Briton  became  unmanageable,  and  wliile  in  that  condi- 
tion was  rakAd  from  stem  to  stern  by  the  Yankffe''s  batteries. 

Gape  Sable  has  long  been  dreaded  by  seamen ,  and  has  caught  up  and  destroyed 
many  vessels.  It  is  one  of  the  most  dangerous  prongs  of  that  iron-bound  Province 
for  which  Edmund  Burke  could  find  no  better  words  than  "  that  hard-visagcd,  ill- 
favored  brat  "  Probably  the  most  destructive  wreck  on  this  shore  was  ^hat  of  the 
ocean  steamship  Hungarian. 

»  The  steamer  is  now  running  to  the  N.  W.  up  the  Barrinfjton  Pas- 
sage, between  Cape  Sable  Island  and  the  populous  Baccaro  peninsula.  In 
about  12  M.  it  lies  to  off  Barrington,  a  thriving  maritime  village  of  1,000 
inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  and  the  coasting 
trade.  Clyde  River  is  about  9  M.  N.  E.,  and  is  a  lumbering  district  origi- 
nally settled  by  Welshmen.  10-12  M.  N.  are  the  Sabimm  and  Great 
Pubnico  Lakes.  Barrington  was  settled  at  an  early  date  by  the  French, 
but  they  were  crowded  off  in  1763  by  the  arrival  of  160  families  from  Capo 
Cod,  who  brought  hither  their  household  effects  on  their  own  vessels. 
After  the  Revolution,  a  colony  of  Loyalists  from  Nantucket  settled  hero 
with  their  whilom  neighbors. 

The  course  is  now  to  the  S.  W.,  through  a  narrow  and  tide-swept  pas- 
sage between  Clement  Point  and  N.  E.  Point,  and  thence  out  through  the 
Barrington  West  Passage,  passing  the  Baptist  church  near  Clarke's  Har- 
bor, and  emerging  on  the  open  sea  between  Bear  Point  and  Newell  Head. 
(It  is  to  be  noted  that,  under  certain  adverse  conditions  of  wind  and  tide, 
the  steamer  does  not  call  at  Barrington,  but  rounds  Cape  Sable  on  the 
outside.)  On  the  1.  is  Green  Island,  hiding  Cape  Sable,  and  the  inlet  of 
Shag  Harbor  is  seen  on  the  r.  On  Bon  Portage  Island  (whose  original 
French  name  was  Bon  Potage)  is  a  new  lighthouse,  to  warn  vessels  from 
the  rugged  shores  on  which  the  Viceroy  was  wrecked.  The  course  soon 
changes  toward  the  N.  W.,  and  Seal  Island,  "  the  elbow  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,"  is  seen  on  the  1.,  far  out  at  sea,  with  the  tower  of  its  lighthouse 
(fixed  white  light,  visible  18  M.,  and  fog-whistle)  looming  above  its  low 
shores.  On  this  island  the  ocean-steamship  Columbia  was  lost.  The 
Blonde  Rock  is  3  J  M.  S.  by  W.  from  the  lighthouse,  and  marks  the  point 
where  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Blonde  went  to  pieces,  in  1782.  Her  crew  was  res- 
cued from  the  island  and  was  given  liberty  by  the  American  privateers 
Lively  and  Scammell,  which  were  prowling  about  Cape  Sable  at  the  time 
of  the  wreck. 

When  the  Seal  Island  lighthouse  is  just  abeam,  on  the  other  side  is  seen 
Cockerwhit  and  the  Mutton  Islands;  N.  of  Seal  Island  the  Noddy,  Mud, 
and  Round  Islands  are  seen,  lying  well  out  at  sea.  The  early  French 
maps  (Chaubert's)  gave  these  lonely  islands  the  significant  name  of  Lea 
Isles  arix  Loups  Marins. 

From  Cape  Sable  "  one  goes  to  the  Isle  aux  Cormorants,  a  league  distant,  so  called 
on  account  of  the  in&iite  number  there  of  those  birds,  with  whose  eggs  we  filled  & 


) 


s  seen 
Mud, 

''ranch 
f  Lea 


I 


TUSKET  ISLANDS. 


RmteU.        125 


cank ;  and  ttom  this  bay  making  W.  about  6  leagues « crossing  a  bay  which  runs  in 
2-3  leagues  to  the  N. ,  we  meet  several  islands,  2-3  leagues  out  to  sea,  which  may 
contain,  some  2,  others  3  leagues,  and  others  less,  according  to  my  judgment.  They 
are  mostly  very  dangerous  for  vessels  to  come  close  to,  on  account  of  the  great  tides 
and  ronks  level  with  the  water.  The.*e  islands  are  filled  with  pine-trees,  firs,  birchesi, 
r.nd  aspens.  A  little  further  on  are  4  others.  In  one  there  is  so  great  a  quantity  of 
bin  is  called  tangurtix  that  they  may  be  easily  knocked  down  with  a  stick.  In 
another  there  are  seals.  In  two  others  there  is  such  an  abundance  of  birds  of  dif- 
ferent kinds  that,  without  having  seen  them,  could  not  be  imagined,  such  as  cor- 
morants, ducks  of  three  kinds,  geese,  marmettes,  bustardi^,  perroquets  rt'.  mer,  snipes, 
vultures,  and  other  birds  of  prey,  mannes,  sea-larks  of  two  or  three  kinds,  herons, 
goUtants,  curlews,  sea-gulls,  divers,  kites,  appoils,  crows,  cranes,  and  other  sorts, 
which  make  their  nests  here."   (Ohamplain.  ) 

*'  Here  are  many  islands  extending  into  the  sea,  4-  6  M.  distant  from  the  main- 
land, and  many  rocks  with  breaking  seas.  Some  of  these  islands,  on  account  of  the 
multitude  of  birds,  are  called  Isles  aux  Tangueux;  others  are  called  Isles  aux  Loups 
Marins  (Seal  Islands)."    (Novus  OaBis.) 

N.  of  St.  John's  Island  (on  the  r.)  is  seen  the  deep  inlet  of  Pnbnico  Har- 
bor, on  whose  shores  is  the  great  fishing-village  of  Fubnico  ( Garland's 
Hotel),  with  2,500  inhabitants,  of  whom  136  families  are  Acad  inn-French, 
the  greater  portion  belonging  to  the  families  of  Amiro  and  D'Entremont. 
There  are  valuable  eel-fisheries  off  this  coast,  and  the  Acadians  own  66 
schooners  in  the  Banks  fisheries.  5  M.  N.  is  Argyle,  a  settlement  of  800 
inhabitants,  near  the  island-strewn  Abuptic  Harbor. 

The  steamer  now  crosses  the  mouth  of  Argyle  Bay  and  the  estuary  of 
the  Tusket  River  (see  page  116),  and  enters  the  archipelago  of  the*  Tusket 
Islands.  In  favorable  conditions  of  wind  and  tide  she  traverses  the  EUen- 
wood  Passage,  passing  the  Bald  Tuskets,  Ellenwood,  Allen,  and  Murder 
Islands,  and  a  muhitude  of  others.  The  islands  are  of  great  variety  of  size 
and  shape,  and  are  usually  thickly  covered  with  low  and  stui'dy  trees; 
and  the  channels  between  them  are  narrow  and  very  deep.  The  frequent 
kaleidoscopic  changes  in  the  views  on  either  si  i  i,  and  the  fascinating 
commingling  and  contrast  of  forest,  rock,  and  water,  recall  the  scenery  of 
the  Thousand  Islands  or  the  Narrows  of  Lake  George.  But  the  Tuskets 
are  not  even  embayed ;  they  stand  off  one  of  the  sharpest  angles  of  the 
continent,  and  the  deep  lanes  between  them  aro  traversed  by  the  strongest 
tides  of  the  ocean. 

Soon  after  passing  the  last  Tusket  the  steamer  runs  in  near  the  white 
village  on  Jebogue  Point,  and  enters  Yarmouth  Sound.  On  the  1.  is  Cape 
Fourchu,  with  its  fog-whistle  and  a  lofty  revolving  light  which  is  visible 
for  18  M.  The  narrow  channel  is  ascended,  with  a  plain  of  mud  on  either 
side,  if  the  tide  is  out;  and  the  vessel  reaches  the  end  of  her  journey  at  th& 
wharves  of  Yarmouth. 

Tarmouth,  see  page  114. 


caUed 
led  ft 


\.t. 


jfr" 


126       Route  f6,      ST.  MARGARET'S  BAY. 


Hali&z  to  Yarmouth,  by  the  Shore  Eonte.  —  Chester 
and  Mahone  Bay. 

The  easiest  route  to  the  chief  ports  on  this  coast  is  by  the  steamship  line  (see 
Route  25);  and  the  new  Western-Counties  Railway,  from  Yarmouth  to  Annapolis, 
■will,  when  completed,  furnisli  a  still  more  expeditious  line  of  travel.  But  many 
points  on  the  Atlantic  front  of  the  Province  arc,  and  will  be,  accessible  only  by 
stages.  This  mode  of  travel  is  fully  as  arduous  here  as  in  other  remote  districts,  and 
the  accommodations  for  wayfarers  are  indifferent. 

Distances.  —  Halifax  to  St.  Margaret's  Bay,  21  M. ;  Hubbard's  Cove  (McLean's), 
82 ;  Chester,  45 ;  Mahone  Bay,  62  (branch  to  Lunenburg  in  7  M.) ;  Bridgewater,  70 ; 
Mill  Village,  88;  Liverpool,  97;  Port  Mouton,  107;  Port  Joli,112;  Sable  River, 
122;  Jordan  River,  130 ;  Shelburne,  137;  Barrington,  157  ;  Pubnico,  175  ;  Tusket, 
191;  Yarmouth,  201.  (Certain  facts  ascertained  while  travelling  over  this  route 
have  led  the  Editor  to  state  the  distance  between  Bridgewater  and  Chester  as  4  M. 
less  than  that  given  in  the  official  itinerary. ) 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Chester,  $2.50;  Mahone  Bay,  S3.50  (Lunenburg,  $4); 
Bridgewater,  $  4 ;  Liverpool,  $  6 ;  Shelburne,  $  8.50 ;  Barrington,  $  10  :  Yarmouth, 
$  12. 

The  stage  rattles  up  the  hilly  streets  of  Halifax  at  early  morning,  and 
traverses  the  wide  commons  N.  of  the  Citadel,  with  formal  lines  of  trees 
on  either  side.  Beyond  the  ensuing  line  of  suburban  villas  it  descends  to 
the  level  of  the  Northwest  Arm  (see  page  100),  along  whose  head  it  passes. 
The  road  then  leads  along  the  shores  of  the  lakes  whence  Halifax  draws 
its  water-supply,  and  enters  a  dreary  and  thinly  settled  region.  Dauphi- 
ney's  Cove  is  at  the  head  of  *  St.  Margaret's  Bay,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful bays  on  all  this  remarkable  coast.  It  is  12  M.  long  by  6  M.  wide,  and 
is  entered  by  a  passage  2  M.  wide;  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  named 
{Bale  de  Ste.  Marguerite)  by  Cliamplain,  who  visited  it  in  May,  1603. 
There  are  several  small  maritime  villages  on  its  shores,  and  the  dark  blue 
waters,  bounded  by  rugged  hills,  are  deep  enough  for  the  passage  of  large 
ships.  The  stage  runs  S.  W.  along  the  shore  for  11  M.,  sometimes  rolling 
alongside  of  beaches  of  dazzling  white  sand,  then  by  shingly  and  stony 
strands  on  which  the  embayed  surf  breaks  lightly,  and  then  by  the  huts 
of  fishermen's  hamlets,  with  their  boats,  nets,  and  kettles  by  the  road- 
side. Ilvbhard's  Cove  has  a  small  inn,  where  passengers  get  their  midday 
meals. 

There  was  an  ancient  water-route  from  this  point  to  the  Basin  of  Minas.  2  M. 
from  the  Cove  is  Dniiphiney\s  Lake,  which  is  4  M.  long,  whence  a  carry  of  1^  M.  leads 
into  the  Ponhook  Lake,  a  river-like  expanse  8  M.  long,  and  nowhere  so  much  as  1 
M.  wide.  A  short  outlet  leads  to  the  Blind  Lake,  which  winds  for  7  M.  through  the 
forests  W.  of  the  Ardoise  Mt.,  and  is  drained  by  the  St.  Croix  River,  emptying  into 
the  Avon  at  Windsor. 

7  M.  S.  W.  of  Hubbard's  Cove  the  stage  crosses  the  East  River,  "a 
glorious  runway  for  salmon,  with  splendid  falls  and  cold  brooks  tumbling 
into  it  at  intervals,  at  the  mouth  of  which  large  trout  can  be  caught  two 
at  a  time,  if  the  angler  be  skilful  enough  to  land  them  when  hooked." 
Frequent  and  beautiful  views  of  Mahone  Bay  are  now  gained  (on  the  1.), 
as  the  stage  sweeps  around  its  head  and  descends  to 


CHESTER. 


Rmiteie.        127 


Chester 


>  line  (flee 
Lnnapolis, 
3ut  many 
e  only  by 
tricts,  and 

IcLean's), 
water,  70 ; 
ble  River, 
;  Tusliet, 
this)  route 
r  as  4  M. 

«rg,  $4); 
Yarmouth, 

lin^,  and 
of  trees 
Bcends  to 
it  passes. 
IX  draws 
Dauphi- 
it  beauti- 
ide,  and 
named 
,  1603. 
ark  blue 
of  large 
rolling 
stony 
the  huts 
le  road- 
midday 


id 


a.  2  M. 
M.  leads 
ich  as  1 
)ugh  the 
log  into 


)er,  "  a 
[mbling 
rht  two 
joked." 
Ithel.), 


Cheiter  (two  good  inns),  a  village  of  abont  900  inhabitants,  finely  situ- 
ated on  a  hill-slope  which  overlooks  the  Chestei*  Basin  and  Mahone  Bay. 
It  has  three  churches,  and  a  pleasant  summer  society.  This  town  was 
settled  about  the  year  1760  by  144  New-Englanders,  who  brought  an  outfit 
of  cattle  and  farming-tools.  In  1784  tliey  were  joined  by  a  large  number 
of  Loyalist  refugees,  but  these  were  from  the  American  cities,  and  soon 
wearied  of  farming  and  returned  out  of  exile.  In  the  woods  near  the  vil- 
lage is  a  thermal  spring  8  ft.  around,  whence  a  soft  alkaline  water  is  dis- 
charged ;  and  on  the  shores  of  Sabbatee  Lake  are  found  deposits  of  kaolin, 
or  white  pipe-clay. 

Mr.  Hallock  is  an  enthusiastic  admirer  of  this  town,  and  says :  "  Three  pleasant 
seasons  have  I  spent  at  Chester.  I  idolize  its  very  name.  Just  below  my  window  a 
lawn  slopes  down  to  a  little  bay  with  a  jetty,  where  an  occasional  schooner  lands 
some  stores.  There  is  a  large  tree,  under  which  I  have  placed  some  seats ;  and  off 
the  end  of  the  pier  the  ladies  can  catch  flounders,  tomcods,  and  cunners,  in  any 
quantity.  There  are  beautiful  drives  in  the  vicinity,  and  innumerable  islands  in 
the  bay,  where  one  can  bathe  and  picnic  to  heart's-content.  There  are  sailing-boata 
for  lobster-spearing  and  deep-sea  fishing,  and  row-boats  too.  From  the  top  of  a 
neighboring  hill  is  a  wonderful  panorama  of  forest,  stream,  and  cultivated  shore,  of 
bays  and  distant  sea,  filled  with  islands  of  every  size  and  shape.  And  if  one  will  go 
to  Gold  Iliver  he  may  perchance  see,  as  I  have  done,  caribou  quietly  feeding  on  the 
natural  meadows  along  the  upper  stream.  Beyond  Beech  Ilill  is  a  tracltless  forest, 
filled  with  moose,  with  which  two  old  hunters  living  near  oft  hold  familiar  inter- 
course."   {The  Fishing  Tourist.) 

One  of  the  pleasantest  excursions  in  this  district  is  to  Deep  Cove  and 
Blandford,  16  M.  from  Chester,  by  a  road  which  follows  the  shores  of 
Mahone  Bay.  From  Blandford  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Aspotogon  is  easily  ac- 
complished, and  rewards  the  visitor  by  a  superb  marine  *  view,  including 
the  great  archipelago  of  Mahone  Bay,  the  deep,  calm  waters  of  St.  Mar- 
garet's Bay  on  the  E.,  the  broken  and  picturesque  shores  towards  Cape 
Sambro,  and  a  wide  sweep  of  the  blue  Atlantic.  Visitors  at  Chester  also 
drive  down  the  Lunenburg  and  Laliave  road,  which  afibrds  pretty  sea- 
views. 

A  rugged  road  leads  across  the  Province  to  Windsor,  about  40  M.  N.,  passing 
through  an  almost  unbroken  wilderness  of  hills,  and  following  the  course  of  the 
Avon  Lakes  and  River.     Semi-weekly  stages  run  from  Chester  to  Keutville  (see 

page  90). 

*  Mahone  Bay  opens  to  the  S.,  E.  and  W.  from  Chester,  and  may  be 
explored  by  boats  or  yachts  from  that  village.  It  is  studded  with  beau- 
tiful islands,  popularly  supposed  to  be  365  in  number,  the  largest  of  which 
are  occupied  by  cosey  little  farms,  while  the  smaller  ones  are  covered  with 
bits  of  foi-est.  The  mainland  shores  are  nearly  all  occupied  by  prosperous 
farms,  which  are  under  the  care  of  the  laborious  Germans  of  the  county. 
The  fogs  prevail  in  these  waters  to  a  f\ir  less  extent  than  on  the  outer 
deep,  and  it  is  not  infrequently  that  vessels  round  the  point  in  a  dense 
white  mist  and  enter  the  sunshine  on  the  Bay.  Boats  and  boatmen  may 
be  obtained  at  the  villages  along  the  shore,  and  pleasant  excursions  may 
be  made  among  the  islands,  in  pursuit  of  fish.    '*  The  unrivalled  beauty 


il 


ii 


128        Route  g6. 


MAHONE  BAY. 


of  Mahone  Bay"  has  been  the  theme  of  praise  from  all  who  have  visited 
this  district.  In  June,  1813,  the  line-of-battle-ship  La  Hogue  and  the 
frigate  Orpheus  chased  the  American  privateer  Young  Teazer  in  among 
these  islands.  Though  completely  overpowered,  the  Yankee  vessel  re- 
fused to  surrender,  and  she  was  blown  up  by  one  of  her  officers.  The 
whole  crew,  94  in  number,  was  destroyed  in  this  catastrophe. 

Oak  Island  is  "elebrated  as  one  of  the  places  where  it  is  alleged  that  Capt. 
Kidd's  treasure  is  h  dden.  About  80  years  ago  3  New-Englanders  claimed  to  have 
found  here  evidences  of  a  buried  mystery,  coinciding  with  a  tradition  to  the  same 
effect.  Digging  down ,  they  passed  regular  layers  of  flag-stones  and  cut  logs,  and 
their  successors  penetrated  the  earth  over  100  ft.  farther,  finding  layers  of  timber, 
charcoal,  putty,  West-Iudian  grass,  sawed  planks,  and  other  curious  substances, 
together  with  a  quaintly  carved  stone.  The  pit  became  flooded  with  water,  and  was 
pumped  out  steadily.  Halifax  and  Truro  merchants  invcKted  in  the  enterprise,  and 
great  stone  drains  were  discovered  leading  frcm  the  sea  into  the  pit.  After  much 
monc  :  il  labor  WPS  spent  in  the  excavation,  it  was  given  up  about  10  years  ago, 
and  tiic;  oliject  of  the  great  drains  and  concealed  pit  still  remains  a  profound  mys- 
tery. 

Bi  7r-i.  cook  is  the  chief  of  the  islands  in  this  bay,  and  is  about  2  M.  long.  It 
coiitii;>^  j(K)  inhabitants,  who  are  engaged  in  farming  and  fishing.  Between  this 
point  and  Mt.  Aspotogon  is  Little  Tancook  Island,  with  60  inhabitants.  These 
ialfitidi  •  tre  devastated,  in  1756,  by  the  Indians,  who  killed  several  of  the  settlers. 

"  This  bay,  the  scenery  of  which,  for  picturesque  grandeur,  is  not  suipassed  by 
ai;j'  lar..  cape  in  America,  is  about  10  M.  broad  and  12  deep,  and  contains  within  it 
a  ciu  lie  of  beautiful  wooded  islands,  which  were  probably  never  coutited,  but 
are  s^.,    vo  exceed  200." 

Soon  after  the  Yarmouth  stage  leaves  Chester  "  we  come  to  Chester 
Basin,  island-gemmed  and  indented  with  many  a  little  cove;  and  far  out 
to  sea,  looming  up  in  solitary  grandeur,  is  Aspotogon,  a  mountain  head- 
land said  to  be  the  highest  land  in  Nova  Scotia  ( V  ).  The  road  follows  the 
shore  for  many  a  mile,  and  then  turns  abruptly  up  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Gold  River,  the  finest  of  all  the  salmon  streams  of  this  grand  locality.  In 
it  there  are  eleven  giorious  pools,  all  within  2  M.  of  each  other,  and  others 
for  several  mile?  above  at  longer  intervals." 

Mahone  Bay  (Victoria  Hot*  1)  is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  situated  on 
a  pretty  cove  about  17  M.  from  Chester.  It  has  4  churches,  and  its  inhab- 
itants are  mostly  engaged  in  fishing  and  the  lumber-trade.  In  the  vicinity 
are  several  other  populous  German  settlements,  and  7  M.  S.  is  Lunenburg 
(see  page  118).  This  point  was  knov  to  the  Indians  by  the  name  of 
MusnMnush,  and  was  fortified  by  the  British  in  I7f't. 

The  stage  now  traver.-^es  a  drearv  inland  region,  inhabited  by  Germans, 
and  soon  reaches  Bridyewater  (two  inns),  a  thriving  village  on  the  Lahave 
River,  13  M.  from  the  sea.  It  has  1,000  inhabitants  and  4  churches,  and 
is  largely  engaged  in  the  lumber-trade,  exporting  staves  to  the  United 
States  and  the  West  Indies.  The  scenery  of  the  Lahave  River  is  at- 
tractive and  picturesque,  but  the  saw-mills  on  its  upper  waters  have 
proved  fatal  to  the  fish  (.see  page  119).  The  road  now  traverses  a  dismal 
region  for  18  M.,  when  it  reaches  Mill  Village  (small  hotel),  on  the  Port 
Medway  River.    This  place  has  several  large  saw-mills  and  a  match- 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


Routs  t7.        129 


re  visited 
and  the 
n  among 
vessel  re- 
jrs.    The 


that  Capt. 
icd  to  have 
o  the  same 
t  logs,  and 
of  timber, 
mbstances, 
sr,  and  was 
rprise,  and 
Lfter  much 
years  ago, 
found  mys- 

I.  long.  It 
Btween  this 
nts.  These 
c  pettlers. 
arpaseed  by 
ns  within  it 
out. ted,  but 


ito  Chester 

id  far  out 

tain  hfead- 

bllows  the 

valley  of 

ality.    In 

nd  others 

lituated  on 
1  its  inhab- 
|ie  vicinity 
Uinenhurg 
name  of 

[Germans, 
Lahave 
j-ches,  and 
lie  United 
irer  is  at- 
Iters  have 
a  dismal 
1  the  Port 
match- 


factorv,  and  its  population  numbers  about  400.  It  is  near  the  Doranrand 
Herringcove  Lakes,  and  is  6  M.  from  the  Third  Falls  of  the  Lahave.  9  M. 
S.  \V.  is  Liverpool  (see  page  120). 

From  Liverpool  to  Yarmouth  the  road  runs  along  the  heads  of  the  bays 
and  across  the  intervening  strips  of  land.  The  chief  stations  and  their 
distances  are  given  in  the  itinerary  on  page  126;  the  descriptions  of  the 
towns  may  be  found  in  Route  25. 

27.  The  Liverpool  Lakes. 

This  system  of  inland  waters  is  most  easily  reached  from  Halifax  or  St.  John 
by  passing  to  Annapolis  Royal  and  there  taking  the  stage  which  leaves  at  6  ▲.  u. 
daily. 

liistances.  —  Annapolis;  MiIford,14  M. ;  Maitland, 27 ;  Northfield,30;  Kempt, 
85;  Brookfield,  41;  Caledonia  Corner;  Greenfield  (Ponhook),  50;  Middlefield,  56; 
Liverpool,  70. 

Soon  after  leaving  Annapolis  the  stage  ;.  ers  the  valley  of  Allen's  River, 
which  is  followed  toward  the  long  low  range  of  the  South  Mt.  At  Milford 
(small  inn)  the  upper  reservoirs  of  the  Liverpool  River  are  met,  and  from 
this  point  it  is  possible  to  descend  in  canoes  or  flat-bottomed  boats  to  the 
town  of  Liverpool,  60  M.  distant.  If  a  competent  guide  can  be  secured 
at  Milford  this  trip  can  be  made  with  safety,  and  will  open  up  rare  fishing- 
grounds.  The  lakes  are  nearly  all  bordered  by  low  and  rocky  shores,  with 
hill-ranges  in  the  distance ;  and  flow  through  regions  which  are  as  yet  but 
little  vexed  by  the  works  of  man.  The  trout  in  these  waters  are  abundant 
and  not  too  coy;  though  better  fishing  is  found  in  proportion  to  the  dis- 
tance to  which  the  southern  forest  is  entered.  Mr.  McClelland  has  been 
the  best  guide  from  Milford,  but  it  is  uncertain  whether  he  will  be  avail- 
able this  summer. 

Queen's  and  Lunenburg  Counties  form  **  the  lake  region  of  Nova  Scotia. 
All  that  it  lacks  is  the  grand  old  mountains  to  make  it  physically  as  at- 
tractive as  the  Adirondacks,  while  as  for  game  and  fish  it  is  in  every  way 
infinitely  superior.  Its  rivers  are  short,  but  they  flow  with  full  volume 
to  the  sea,  and  yield  abundantly  of  salmon,  trout,  and  sea-trout.  Its  lakes 
swarm  with  trout,  and  into  many  of  them  the  salmon  ascend  to  spawn, 
and  are  dipped  and  speared  by  the  Indians  in  large  numbers."  (Hal- 
lock.) 

•'  In  the  hollows  of  the  highlands  are  likewise  embosomed  lakes  of  every  variety 
of  form,  and  often  quite  isolated.  Deep  and  intensely  blue,  their  shores  fringed 
with  rock  bowlders,  and  generally  containing  several  islands,  they  do  much  to  di- 
versify the  monotony  of  the  forest  by  their  frequency  and  picturesque  scenery." 
(Capt.  IIardy.) 

The  Liverpool  road  is  rugged,  and  leads  through  a  region  of  almost  un- 
broken forests.  Beyond  Milford  it  runs  S.  E.  down  the  valleys  of  the 
Boot  Lake  and  Fisher's  Lake,  with  dark  forests  and  ragged  clearings  on 
either  side.  Maitland  is  a  settlement  of  about  400  inhabitants,  and  a  few 
miles  beyond  is  Northfield,  whence  a  forest-road  leads  S.  W.  6  M.  to  the 
6*  I 


'm.''\ 


—I 


130       Rmtei7. 


LIVERPOOL  LAKES. 


shore  of  Fairy  Lake,  or  the  Frozen  Ocean,  a  beautiful  island-strewn  sheet 
of  water  4  M.  long. 

The  road  now  enters  Broohfield,  the  centre  of  the  new  fanning  settle- 
ments of  the  North  District  of  Queen's  County.  Several  roads  diverge 
hence,  and  in  the  vicinity  tlie  lakes  and  tributaries  of  the  Liverpool  arid 
Port  Medway  Rivers  are  curiously  interlaced.  6  -  6  M.  S.  E.  is  the  Malaga 
LakCy  which  is  5  M.  long  and  has  several  pretty  islands.  The  road  passes 
on  to  Greenfield,  a  busy  lumbering-village  at  the  outlet  of  Port  Medway 
Great  Lake.  This  long-drawn-out  sheet  of  water  is  also  skirted  by  the 
other  road,  which  runs  S.  from  Brookfield  through  Caledonia  Comer 
(small  inn).  The  Ponhook  Road  is  S.  W.  of  Greenfield  and  runs  down 
through  the  forest  to  the  outlet  of  Ponhook  Lake,  '  the  headquarters  of 
the  Micmacs  and  of  all  the  salmon  of  the  Liverpool  River."  This  Indian 
village  is  the  place  to  get  guides  who  are  tireless  and  are  familiar  with 
every  rod  of  the  lake-district.  From  this  point  a  canoe  voyage  of  about 
8  M.  across  the  Ponhook  Lakes  leads  the  voyager  into  the  great  *  Lake 
Bossignol,  which  is  12  M.  long  by  8  M.  wide,  and  affords  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  sights  in  Nova  Scotia. 

"  A  glorious  view  was  unfolded  as  we  left  the  run  and  entered  the  still  water  of 
the  lake.  The  breeze  fell  rapidly  witii  the  sun  and  enabled  us  to  steer  towards  the 
centre,  from  which  alone  the  size  of  il:e  lake  could  be  appreciated,  owing  to  the 
number  of  the  islands.  These  were  of  every  imaginable  shape  and  size,  —  from  the 
grizzly  rock  bearing  a  solitary  stunted  pine,  shaggy  with   Usnea,  to  those  of  a  mile 

in  length,  thickly  wooded  with  maple,  beech,  and  birches Here  and  there  a 

bright  spot  of  white  sand  formed  a  beach  tempting  for  a  disembarkation  ;  and  fre- 
quent sylvan  scenes  of  an  almost  fairy-land  character  opened  up  as  we  coasted  along 
the  shores,  —  little  harbors  almost  closed  in  from  the  lake,  overgrown  with  water- 
lilies,  arrow-heads,  and  other  aquatic  plants,  with  mossy  banks  backed  by  bosky 
groves  of  hemlocks.''    (Capt.  Hardt.) 

At  the  foot  of  Lake  Roasignol  is  a  wide  oak-opening,  with  a  fine  greensward  under 
groves  of  white  oaks.  Near  this  point  the  Liverpool  River  flows  out,  passing  several 
islets,  and  afifording  good  trout-fishing.  In  and  about  this  oak-opening  was  the 
chief  village  of  the  ancient  Micmacs  of  this  region ;  and  here  are  their  nearly  oblit- 
erated burying-grounds.  The  site  is  now  a  fevorite  resort  for  hunting  and  fishing 
parties.  The  name  Ponhook  means  "  the  first  lake  in  a  chain  "  ;  and  these  shores 
are  one  of  the  few  districts  of  the  vast  domains  of  Miggumdhghee,  or  "  Micmac 
Land,"  that  remain  in  the  possession  of  the  aborigines.  From  Ponhook  12  lakes 
may  be  entered  by  canoes  without  making  a  single  portage. 

From  Lake  Rossignol  the  sportsman  may  visit  the  long  chain  of  the 
Segum-Sega  Lakes,  entered  from  a  stream  on  the  N.  W.  shore  (several 
portnges),  and  may  thence  ascend  to  the  region  of  the  Blue  Mts.  and  into 
Shelburne  County.  The  Indian  Gardens  may  also  be  visited  thence,  af- 
fording many  attractions  for  riflemen.  The  Micmacs  of  Ponhook  are  the 
best  guides  to  the  remoter  parts  of  the  forest.  There  are  several  gentle- 
men in  the  town  of  Liverpool  who  have  traversed  these  pleasant  solitudes, 
and  they  will  aid  fellow-sportsmen  loyally.  The  Indian  village  is  cmly 
about  16  M.  from  Liverpool,  by  a  road  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river. 

Liverpool,  see  page  120. 


CHEZZETCOOK. 


Route  28.        131 


trewn  sheet 

ming  settle- 
ads  diverge 
iverpool  arid 
,  the  Malaga 
road  passes 
3rt  Medway 
rted  by  the 
onia  Comer 
runs  down 
[quarters  of 
This  Indian 
imiUar  with 
ige  of  about 
p-eat  *  Lake 
I  of  the  most 


!  still  water  of 
nr  towards  the 
.,  owing  to  the 
,  —  from  the 
ose  of  a  mile 
and  there  a 
ion ;  and  fre- 
coabted  along 
n  with  water- 
ed by  bosky 

jisward  under 
jissing  several 
ling  was  the 
I  nearly  oblit- 

'  and  fishing 
fthese  shores 

3r  "  Micniac 
Look  12  lakes 


^ain  of  the 

re  (several 

and  into 

tlience,  af- 

lok  are  the 

|ral  gentle- 

1  solitudes, 

re  is  only 


28.   Hali&x  to  Tangier. 


The  Royal  mail-stage  leaves  Halifax  at  6  A.  M.  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Fri- 
day (returning  the  alternate  days ' ,  for  the  villages  along  the  Atlantic  shore  to  the 
E.  The  conveyancu  is  not  good,  and  the  roads  are  sometimes  in  bad  condition,  but 
there  is  pretty  coast-scenery  along  the  route. 

Distances.  —  Halifax;  Dartmouth;  Porter's  Lake  (Innis's),  16)^  M. ;  Chezaset- 
cook  lload  (Onnons),  18>^  ;  Musquodoboit  Harbor,  28>^  ;  Lakevillc  (Webber's),  40; 
Ship  Harbor,  48;  Tangier,  56  ;  Sheet  Harbor,  74;  Beaver  Harbor,  84. 

After  leaving  Dartmouth,  the  stage  runs  E.  through  a  lake-strewn  coun- 
try, and  passes  near  the  gold-mines  of  Montague.  Beyond  the  Little 
Salmon  River  it  traverses  Preston,  with  the  gold-bearing  district  of 
Lawrencetown  on  the  S.  The  mines  and  placer- washings  at  this  point 
drew  large  and  enthusiastic  crowds  of  adventurers  in  1861-62,  but  they 
are  now  nearly  abandoned.  The  road  rounds  the  N.  end  of  Echo  Lake 
and  ascends  a  ridge  beyond,  after  which  it  crosses  the  long  and  river-like 
expanse  of  Porter^s  Lake,  and  runs  through  the  post-village  of  the  same 
name.  3-4  M.  to  the  S.  E.  is  Chezzetcook  Harbor,  with  its  long  shores 
lined  with  settlements  of  the  Acadian  French,  whereof  Cozzens  writes :  — 

•'  But  we  are  again  in  the  Acadian  forest ;  let  us  enjoy  the  scenery.  The  road  we 
are  on  is  but  a  few  miles  from  tlie  sea-shore,  but  the  ocean  u  hidden  from  view  by 
the  thick  woods.  As  we  ride  along,  however,  we  skirt  the  edges  of  coves  and  inlets 
that  frequently  break  in  upon  the  landscape.  There  is  a  chain  of  fresh-water  lakes 
also  along  this  road.  Sometimes  we  cross  a  bridge  over  a  rushing  torrent ;  some- 
times a  calm  expanse  of  water,  doubling  the  evergreens  at  its  margin,  comes  into 
view  ;  anon  a  gleam  of  sapphire  strikes  through  the  verdure,  and  an  ocean-bay  with 
its  shingly  beach  curves  in  and  out  between  the  piny  slopes." 

Here  "  the  water  of  the  harbor  has  an  intensity  of  color  rarely  seen,  except  in 
the  pictures  of  the  most  ultramarine  p:iinters.  Here  and  there  a  green  island  or  a 
fishing-boat  rested  upon  the  surface  of  the  tranquil  blue.  For  miles  and  miles  the 
eye  followed  indented  grassy  slopes  that  rolled  away  on  either  side  of  the  liarbor, 
and  the  most  delicate  pencil  could  scarcely  portray  the  exquisite  line  of  creamy  sand 
that  skirted  their  edges  and  melted  off  iu  the  clear  margin  of  the  water.  Occasional 
little  cottages  nestle  among  these  green  banks,  —  not  the  Acadian  houses  of  the 
poem,  'with  thatched  roof?  and   dormer-windows    projecting,'  but  comfortable, 

homely-looking  buildings  of  modern  shapes,  shingled  and  un-weathercocked 

The  women  of  Chezzetcook  appear  at  daylight  ia  the  city  of  Halifax,  and  as  soon  as 
the  sun  is  up  vanish  like  the  dew.  They  have  usually  a  basket  of  fresh  eggs,  a  brace 
or  two  of  worsted  socks,  a  bottle  of  fir  balsam,  to  sell.  These  comprise  their  simple 
commerce." 

Chezzetcook  was  founded  by  the  French  in  1740,  but  was  abandoned  during  the 
long  subsequent  wars.  Atler  the  British  conquest  and  pacification  of  Acadia,  many 
of  the  old  families  returned  to  their  former  homes,  and  Chezzetcook  was  re-occupied 
by  its  early  settlers.  They  formed  an  agricultural  community,  and  grew  rapidly 
in  prosperity  and  in  numbers.  There  are  about  250  families  now  resident  about  the 
bay,  preserving  the  names  and  language  and  many  of  the  primitive  customs  of  the 
Acadians  of  the  Basin  of  Minas.    (See  pages  108  and  113. ) 

The  road  passes  near  the  head  of  Chezzetcook  Harbor,  on  the  r.,  and 
then  turns  N.  E.  between  the  blue  waters  of  Chezzetcook  Great  Lake  (1.) 
and  Pepiswick  Lake  (r.).  The  deep  inlet  of  Musquodoboit  Harbor  is  soon 
reached,  and  its  head  is  crossed.  This  is  the  harbor  where  Capt.  Hardy 
made  his  pen-picture  of  this  romantic  coast:  — 

"  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  scenery  in  some  of  the  Atlantic  harbors  of 
Nova  Scotia,  —  their  innumerabl'-  islands  and  heavily-wooded  shores  fiinged  witli 


i 


(I 


I  I 


132        Route  28. 


TANGIER. 


the  d^lden  kelp,  the  wild  undulating  hills  of  maple  rising  in  the  background,  the 
patches  of  meadow,  and  neat  little  white  shanties  of  the  fishermen's  clearings,  .... 
the  fir  woods  of  the  western  shores  bathed  in  the  morning  sunbeamn  the  perfect 
rejection  of  the  i^^landn  and  of  the  little  fishing-schooners,  the  wreaths  of  blue 
smoke  rising  from  thcif  caliin  stoTe»,  and  the  roar  of  the  distant  rapids,  where  tlie 
river  juins  the  harbor,  borne  in  cadence  on  the  ear,  mingled  with  the  cheerfbl 
sounds  of  awakening  life  from  the  cleuring.s." 

Near  Musquodoboit  are  some  valuable  gold-mines,  wiiii  two  powerfuV 
quartz-crushing  mills,  and  several  moderately  rich  lodes  of  auriferous 
quartz.  The  stage  soon  reaches  the  W.  arm  of  Jeddore  Harbor,  and  then 
crosses  the  Le  Marchant  Bridge.  The  district  of  Jeddore  has  1,623  in- 
habitants, most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  or  the  coasting  trade, 
alternating  these  employments  with  lumbering  and  shipbuilding.  A  long 
tract  of  wilderness  is  now  traversed,  and  Shij)  Harbor  is  reuched.  A  few 
miles  N.  W.  is  the  broad  expanse  of  Ship  Harbor  Lake,  reaching  nearly 
to  the  Boar's  Back  Ridge,  and  having  a  length  of  12-14  M.  and  a  width 
of  2-4  M.  To  the  N-  are  the  hills  whence  falls  the  Tangier  River,  to 
vtrhich  the  Indians  gave  the  onomatupoetic  name  of  Ahmagopakegeek, 
which  signifies  "  tumbling  over  the  rocks."  The  post-road  now  enters 
the  once  famous  gold-bearing  district  of  Tan(j  ler. 

These  mines  were  opened  in  1860,  and  speedily  became  widely  renowned,  attract- 
ing thousands  of  ailventurcrs  from  all  parts  of  the  Atlantic  coast.  For  miles  the 
ground  was  honeycombed  with  pits  and  shafts,  and  the  excited  men  worked  with- 
out intermission.  But  the  gold  was  not  found  in  maBses,  and  only  patience  and 
hard  work  could  extract  a  limited  quantity  from  the  quartz,  so  the  crowd  became 
discontented  and  went  to  the  new  fields.  Lucrative  shore-washings  were  engaged  in 
for  some  time,  and  a  striy  nugget  of  Tangier  gold  weighing  27  ounces  was  ghown  in 
the  Dublin  Exposition.  This  district  covers  about  SO  square  miles,  and  has  12  lodes 
of  auriferous  quartz.  Tha  South  Lode  is  the  most  valuable,  and  appears  to  grow 
richer  as  it  d(>o(!ud.s.  Ihc  mines  are  now  being  worked  by  two  small  companies, 
and  their  avf^rage  yield  i»  $  400  -  500  per  miner  each  year. 

Beyond  Tangier  and  Pope's  Bay  the  post-road  passes  the  head  of  Spry 
Bay,  and  then  the  head  of  Mushaboon  Harbor,  and  reaches  Sheet  Harbor 
(FarnaPs  Hotel).  This  is  a  small  shipbuilding  village,  at  the  head  of  the 
long  harbor  of  the  same  name,  and  is  at  the  outlets  of  the  Middle  and 
North  Rivers,  famous  for  their  fine  salmon  fisheries.  ^    - 

From  this  point  a  road  follows  the  shore  to  the  N.  £.  to  Shcrbrooke,  about  60  M. 
distant,  passing  tlie  obscure  maritime  hamlets  of  Beaver  Harbor,  Necum  Tench, 
Ekum  Sekum,  Marie  Joseph,  and  Liscoml)  Harbor.  The  back-country  on  all  this 
route  is  yet  desolate  and  unsettled.  There  are  so  many  islands  off  the  shore  that 
this  portion  of  the  Atlantic  is  called  the  Bay  of  Islands  (old  French,  Baie  de  Toutes 
les  Isles),  although  it  is  not  embayed. 

Sberbrooke,  see  page  133. 


:M--}-^    ■!■:■:: 


L'- 


■  • :  t   i 


■,.h 


nti     'ih    --i,}    ■•.«';*■        **«*i'?    ■ 


I! 


GUYSBOROUGH. 


Jioute  99.        133 


29.  The  Northeast  Coast  of  Nova  Scotia. 

This  district  is  reached  by  passing  on  the  Intercolonial  Rnilway  (see  Routes  16 
and  17)  firom  St  John  or  Halifax  to  New  Qlasgow,  and  thence  taking  the  Royid 
mail-stage  to  Antigoniah  (see  Route  32). 

From  Antigonish  a  stage  departs  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday 
mornings,  running  40  M.  S.  (fare,  $2)  to  Sherbrooke  (two  inns).  This  is 
a  village  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  St.  Mary's  River,  the  largest  river  in  Nova 
Scotia,  and  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  that  stream.  It  is  engaged  in 
shipbuilding  and  in  the  exportation  of  d(  Is  and  lumber.  The  town  de- 
rives considerable  interest  from  the  fn  i  hat  in  the  vicinity  is  one  of  the 
broadest  and  most  prolific  gold-fields  T^mvince.     Goldenville  is  3  M. 

from  Sherbrooke,  by  a  road  which  en  ..  Mary's  on  a  long  bridge. 

This  district  covers  18  square  miles,  '^  richest  in  the  Province, 

having  yielded  as  high  as  $2,000  per  mm  per  year,  or  about  three  times 
the  average  production  of  the  best  of  the  Australian  mines.  The  aurifer- 
ous lodes  are  operated  at  Goldenville  only,  where  there  are  several  quartz- 
crushers  on  a  large  scale.  These  mines  were  discovered  in  1861,  and  on 
the  first  day  over  $500  worth  of  gold  was  found  here.  Systematic  mining 
operations  were  soon  commenced,  and  the  yield  of  the  precious  metal  baa 
since  been  very  satisfactory. 

The  Wine- Harbor  Gold-field  is  several  miles  S.  E.  of  Sherbrooke,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  St.  Mary's  River.  The  average  yield  per  ton  is  small,  yet  the  breadth  and 
continuity  of  the  lodes  renders  the  work  easy  and  certain.  This  district  is  seamed 
with  abandoned  shafts  and  tunnels,  one  of  which  is  700  ft.  long.  The  first  discovery 
of  gold  was  made  in  1860  in  the  sands  of  the  sea-shore,  and  the  quartz  lodes  on  the 
N.  E.  side  of  the  harbor  were  soon  opened  Of  later  years  the  Wine-Harbor  district 
has  greatly  decl'iied  in  popularity  and  productiveness. 

The  S'.ormont  Gold-Jields  are  33  M.  N.  E.  of  Sherbrooke,  and  ore  most  easily 
reached  by  direct  conveyance  from  Antigonish.  Gold  wa.s  discovered  hero  by  the 
Indians  in  1861^  and  occurs  in  thick  layers  of  quartz.  Owing  to  its  remoteness, 
this  region  has  remained  undeveloped,  and  its  total  yield  in  18fi9  was  but  227  ounces 
($4,540).  The  cliief  village  in  the  district  is  at  thie  head  of  Country  Harbor,  a  pic- 
turesque arm  of  the  sea,  8  M.  long  and  '2-3  M.  wide.  There  are  fine  opportunities 
for  shooting  and  fishing  among  the  adjacent  bays  and  highlands.  All  this  shore 
was  settled  in  1783  -  4  by  Loyalists  from  North  and  South  Carolina. 


Guysborough  and  Cape  Canso. 

Gnysborougll  {Grant's  Hold)  is  reached  by  daily  mail-stages  from 
Heatherton,  on  the  Halifax  &  Cape  Breton  Railway.  After  leaving  the 
valley  of  the  South  River,  the  road  passes  through  a  rough  and  hilly  region, 
and  descends  through  the  Intei'vale  Settlement  and  Manchester  to  Guys- 
borough,  a  marine  village  at  the  head  of  Chedabucto  Bay.  It  has  about 
1,700  inhabitants,  with  a  prosperous  academy,  and  is  the  capital  of  Guys- 
borough  County  (named  in  honor  of  Sir  Guy  Carleton).  It  is  engaged  in 
shipbuilding  and  the  fisheries,  and  has  a  good  and  spacious  harbor.  The 
noble  anchorage  of  Milford  Haven  lies  between  the  town  and  the  bay. 


^, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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fliotographic 

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23  WIST  MAIN  STRHT 

WEBSTIR.N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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134       Route  90. 


SABLE  ISLAND. 


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A  strong  post  was  established  at  Chedabncto,  on  the  site  of  Oaysborongh,  in  1686, 
by  M.  Denys,  who  had  spacious  warehouses  and  a  strong  fort  here,  tc^ther  with 
120  men.  Here  he  leceivrd  and  supported  the  exiled  children  of  D^AiHnay  Char- 
nisay ;  and  here  also  he  was  vainly  besieged  for  seTera)  days  by  La  Oirau^^hne.  and 
100  men  from  Canso.  In  1690  the  works  were  held  by  De  Montorgueuil,  and  were 
bravely  defended  against  the  attacks  of  the  New-England  army  under  8ir  William 
Phipps.  Finally,  when  the  buildingR  of  the  fort  were  all  in  flamea  about  hhn,  the 
gallant  Frenchman  surrendered,  and  was  sent  to  Placentia  with  his  soldiers.  The 
ruins  of  the  ancient  fort  are  now  to  be  traced  near  the  mouth  of  the  harbor. 

* 

A  bold  ridge  runs  81 M.  E.  from  Guysborough  along  the  S.  shore  of  Ghed- 
abucto  Bay  to  Cape  Canso,  the  most  easterly  point  of  Nova  Scotia.  A 
road  follows  the  course  of  the  bay  to  the  fishing-village  of  Cape  Canso, 
which  has  over  1,000  inhabitants  and  enjoys  a  profitable  little  export 
trade.  Several  Islands  lie  off  this  extreme  point  of  Nova  Scotia,  one  of 
which  bears  two  powerful  white  lights  and  a  fog-whistle.  Canso  Harbor 
is  marked  by  a  fixed  red  light  which  is  visible  for  12  M. 

Wlilte  Haven  is  on  the  S.  side  of  the  great  peninsula  of  Wilmot,  80  M.  from 
Guysborough,  and  ia  a  small  fishing  settlement  situated  on  one  of  the  finest  bays  on 
the  American  coast.  It  was  originally  intended  to  have  the  Intercolonial  Railway 
terminate  here,  and  connect  with  the  transatlantic  steamships.  The  harbor  is  easy 
of  access,  of  capacious  breadth,  and  free  from  ice  in  winter.  Its  £.  point  is  White 
Head,  usually  i^e  first  land  seen  by  vessels  crossing  from  Europe  in  this  upper  lati- 
tude, on  which  is  a  fixed  white  light.  Just  W.  of  White  Haven  is  the  fishermen's 
hamlet  of  Molasses  Harbor ^  near  the  broad  bight  of  Tor  Bay. 

30.   Sable  Island. 

The  Editor  inserts  the  following  sketch  of  this  remotest  outpost  of  the  Maritime 
Provinces,  hoping  that  its  quaint  character  may  make  amends  for  its  uselessness  to 
the  summer  tourist.  It  may  also  bo  of  service  to  voyagers  on  these  coasts  who  should 
chance  to  be  cast  away  on  the  island,  since  no  one  likes  to  be  landed  suddenly  in  a 
strange  country  without  having  some  previous  knowledge  of  the  reception  he  may 
get. 

A  regular  line  of  communication  has  recently  been  established  between  Sable 
Island  and  Halifax.  The  boats  run  once  a  year,  and  are  chartered  by  the  Canadian 
government  to  carry  provisions  and  stores  to  the  lighthouse  people  and  pa*^rols, 
and  to  bring  back  the  persons  who  may  have  l)een  wrecked  there  during  the  pre- 
vious year. 

Bable  Island  is  about  90  M.  S.  E.  of  Cape  Canso.  It  is  a  barren  ex- 
panse of  sand,  without  trees  or  thickets,  and  is  constantly  swept  by  storms, 
under  whose  powerful  pressure  the  whole  aspect  of  the  land  changes,  by 
the  shilling  of  the  low  dunes.  The  only  products  of  this  arid  shore  are 
cranberries,  immense  quantities  of  which  are  found  on  the  lowlands. 

"  Should  any  one  be  visiting  the  island  now,  he  might  see,  about  10  M.  distance, 
looking  seaward,  half  a  dozen  low  dark  hummocks  on  the  horizon.  As  he  ap- 
proaches, they  gradually  resolve  themselves  into  hills  ftinged  by  breakers,  and  by 
and  by  the  white  sea-beach  with  its  continued  surf,  —  the  sand-hills,  part  naked, 
part  waving  in  grass  of  the  deepest  green,  unfold  themselves,  —  a  house  and  a  bam 
dot  the  western  extremity,  —  here  and  there  along  the  wild  beach  lie  the  ribs  of  un- 
lucky traders  half  buried  in  the  shifting  sand Nearly  the  first  thing  the  vis- 
itor does  ia  to  mount  the  flag-staff,  and,  climbing  into  the  crow's-nest,  scan  the  scene. 
The  ocean  bounds  him  everywhere.  Spread  east  and  west,  he  views  the  narrow 
island  in  form  of  a  bow,  as  if  the  great  Atlantic  waves  had  bent  it  around,  nowhere 
much  above  1  M.  wide,  26  M.  long,  including  the  dry  bars,  and  holding  a  shallow 
lake  13  M.  long  in  its  oentre.   There  it  all  lies  spread  like  a  map  at  his  feet, — grassy 


SABLE  ISLAND. 


Route  90.      135 


hill  and  sandy  ndley  IHding  aimy  Into  ilie  distance.  On  the  Ibrcgroond  the  ootpoct 
men  galloping  their  rough  ponies  into  headquarters,  recalled  by  the  flag  flying  orer 
his  head ;  the  West-end  house  of  refuge,  with  bread  and  matches,  firewood  and 
kettle,  and  directions  to  find  water,  and  headquarters  with  flag-staff  on  the  adjoin- 
ing  hill.  Every  sandy  peak  or  grassy  knoll  with  a  dead  man's  name  or  old  ship's 
tradition,— Baker's  Hill,Trott'8  Cove,  Scotchman's  Head,  French  Gardens,  —  tra- 
ditionary spot  where  the  poor  convicts  expiated  their  social  crimes, — the  little 
burial-ground  nestling  in  the  long  grass  of  a  high  hill,  and  consecrated  to  the  re- 
pone  of  many  a  sea-tossed  limb  ;  and  2  -3  M.  down  the  shallow  lake,  the  South-side 
house  and  bam,  and  staff  and  boats  lying  on  the  lake  beside  the  door.  9  M.  fiurther 
down,  by  the  aid  of  a  glass,  he  may  view  the  flag-staff  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  6 
M.  farther  the  East-end  lookout,  with  its  staff  and  watch-house.  Herds  of  wild 
ponies  dot  the  hills,  and  black-duck  and  sheldrakes  are  heading  their  young  broods 
on  the  mirror-like  ponds.  Seals  innumerable  are  basking  on  the  warm  sands,-  or 
piled  like  ledges  of  rock  along  the  shores.  The  Glcugow^s  bow,  the  MaskonemeVs 
stem,  the  East  Boston's  hulk,  and  the  grinning  ribs  of  the  well-fhstened  Cfuide,  are 
spotting  the  sands,  each  with  its  tale  of  last  adventure,  hardships  passed,  and  UAi 
endured.  The  whole  picture  Is  set  in  a  silver-frosted  frame  of  rolling  surf  and  sear 
ribbed  sand." 

"  Mounted  upon  his  hardy  pony,  the  solitary  patrol  starts  upon  his  lonely  way. 
He  rides  up  the  centre  valleys,  ever  and  anon  mounting  a  grassy  hill  to  lo(^  sea- 
ward, reaches  the  West-end  bar,  speculates  upon  perchance  a  broken  spar,  an  empty 
bottle,  or  a  cask  of  beef  struggling  in  the  land-wash, — now  fords  the  shallow  lake, 
looking  well  for  his  land-range,  to  escape  the  hole  where  Baker  was  drowned ;  and 
coming  on  the  breeding-ground  of  the  countless  birds,  his  pony's  hoof  with  a  xeok- 
less  smash  goes  crunching  through  a  dozen  eggs  or  callow  young.  He  fiiirly  puts 
his  pony  to  her  mettle  to  escape  the  cloud  of  angry  birds,  which,  arising  in  countlew 
numbers,  dent  his  weather-beinten  tarpaulin  with  their  sharp  bUls,  and  snap  his 

Eony's  ears,  and  confuse  him  with  their  sharp,  shrill  cries.  Ten  minutes  more,  and 
e  is  holding  hard  to  count  the  seals.  There  they  lay,  old  ocean's  flocks,  resting 
their  wave-tossed  limbs,  —  great  ocean  bulls,  and  cows,  and  calves."  (Dr.  J.  B. 
GapiN. ) 

For  over  a  century  Sable  Island  has  been  famous  for  its  wild  horses.  They  num- 
ber perhaps  400,  and  are  divided  into  gangs  which  are  under  the  leadership  of  the 
old  males.  They  resemble  the  Mexican  or  Ukraine  wild  horses,  in  their  large  heads, 
shaggy  necks,  sloping  quarters,  paddling  gait,  and  chestnut  or  piebald  colors.  Once 
a  year  the  droves  are  all  herded  by  daring  horsemen  into  a  large  pound,  where  20  or  90 
of  the  best  are  taken  out  to  be  sent  to  Nova  Scotia.  After  the  horses  chosen  for  ex- 
portation are  lassoed  and  secured,  the  remainder  are  turned  loose  again. 


Since  Sable  Island  was  first  sighted  by  Cabot,  in  1497,  it  has  been  an  ottjeet  of 
terror  to  mariners.  Several  vessels  of  D'Anville's  French  Armada  were  lost  here ; 
and  among  the  many  wrecks  in  later  days,  the  chief  have  been  those  of  the  ocean 
steamship  Georgia  and  the  French  frigate  VAfricaiw.. 

In  the  year  1583,  when  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  was  returning  fit>m  Newfoundland 
(of  which  he  had  taken  possession  in  the  name  of  the  English  Crown),  his  little  fleet 
became  entangled  among  the  shoals  about  Sable  Island.  On  one  of  these  outlying 
bars  the  ship  Delight  struck  heavily  and  dashed  her  stern  and  quarters  to  pieces. 
The  officers  and  over  100  men  were  lost,  and  14  of  the  crew,  after  drifting  about  in  a 
pinnace  for  many  days,  were  finally  rescued.  The  other  vessels,  the  Squirrel  and  the 
Golden  Hind,  bore  off  to  sea  and  set  their  course  for  England.  But  when  off  the 
Aiores  the  Squirrel  was  sorely  tossed  by  a  tempest  (being  of  only  10  tons'  burden), 
and  upon  her  deck  was  seen  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  reading  a  book.  As  she  swept 
past  the  Golden  Hind,  the  brave  knight  cried  out  to  the  captain  of  the  latter : 
"  Courage,  my  lads,  we  are  as  near  heaven  by  sea  as  by  land."  About  midnight  the 
&iuirrel  plunged  heavily  forward  into  the  trough  of  the  sea,  and  went  down  with 
all  on  board.  Thus  perished  this  "  resolute  soldier  of  Jesus  Christ, ....  one  of  the 
noblest  and  best  of  men  in  an  age  of  great  men." 

In  1508  a  fritile  attempt  at  colonizing  Sable  Island  was  made  by  "  Le  Sienr  Baron 
de  Leri  et  de  St.  Just,  Yic^mte  de  Gueu."  But  he  left  some  live-stock  here  tliat 
afterwards  saved  many  lives. 

In  the  year  VXf8  the  Marquis  de  la  Boohe  was  sent  by  Henri  IV.  to  Amerioa,  car* 
rying  200  oonviots  tnm  the  Fxenoh  prisons.    Ha  determiiMd  to  found  a  settlement 


;    'I!  I 


136     BouteSl. 


NEW  GLASGOW. 


'    i|, 


i   I 


on  Sable  Island,  and  left  40  of  his  men  there  to  commence  the  work.  Soon  after. 
De  la  Roche  was  forced  by  stress  of  storm  to  return  to  France,  abandoning  these 
unfortunate  colonists,  without  food,  clothing,  or  wood,  they  suffered  intensely, 
until  partial  relief  was  brought  by  the  wrecking  of  a  French  ship  on  the  island.  For 
■even  yean  they  dwelt  in  huts  built  of  wrecked  timber,  dressed  in  seal-skins,  and 
li'dng  on  fish.  Then  King  Henri  lY.  sent  out  a  ship  under  Chedotel,  and  the  12 
ranrirors,  gaunt,  squalid,  and  long-bearded,  were  carried  back  to  France,  where  they 
were  pardoned  and  rewarded. 

An  attempt  was  made  about  the  middle  of  the  16th  century  to  colonise  Cape  Bre« 
ton  in  the  interests  of  Spain,  but  the  fleet  that  was  transporting  the  Spaniards  and 
thdr  property  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  Sable  Island. 

31.   St  John  and  HalifEuc  to  Ficton. 

By  the  Pietou  Branch  Railway,  which  diverges  firom  the  Intercolonial  Railway  at 
Truro. 

Stations.  —  St.  John  to  Pietou.  St.  John  to  Truro,  216  M.  ;  Valley,  219 ; 
Union,  224 ;  Riversdale,  228  West  River,  236 ;  Glengarry,  243 ;  Hopewell,  260 ; 
Btollexton,  266 ;  New  Olasgow,  268 ;  Pietou  Landing,  266 ;  Steamboat  Wharf,  267. 

Stations.— HaZt/az  to  Pietou.  Halifax  to  Truro,  61  M. ;  Valley,  66;  Union, 
70;  Riversdale,  74 ;  West  River,  82 ;  Glengarry,  89 ;  Hopewell,  96;  SteUarton,  101 ; 
New  Olasgow,  104  ;  Pietou  Landing,  112 ;  Steamboat  Wharf,  Ua 

St.  John  to  Truro,  see  Routes  16  and  17. 

Halifax  to  Truro,  see  Route  17  (reversed). 

The  train  i^uns  E.  from  Truro,  and  soon  after  leaving  the  environs,  enters 
a  comparatively  broken  and  uninteresting  region.  On  the  1.  are  the  roll- 
ing foot-hills  of  the  Cobequid  Range,  and  the  valley  of  the  Salmon  River 
is  followed  by  several  insignificant  forest  stations.  Riversdale  is  surrounded 
by  a  pleasant  diversity  of  hill-scenery,  and  has  a  spool-factory  and  a  con- 
siderable lumber  trade.  14  M.  to  the  N.  is  the  thriving  Scottish  settlement 
of  Earltown.  Beyond  West  River  the  train  reaches  Glengarry^  which  is 
the  station  for  the  Scottish  villages  of  New  Lairg  and  Gairloch.  Hopewell 
(Hopewell  Hotel)  has  small  woollen  and  spool  factories ;  and  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond  the  line  approaches  the  banks  of  the  East  River. 

Stellarton  is  the  station  for  the  great  Albion  Mines,  which  are  con- 
trolled (for  the  most  part)  by  the  General  ^  ng  Association,  of  London. 
There  is  a  populous  village  here,  most  nf  w  .  inhabitants  are  connected 
with  the  mines.  The  coal-seams  extend  over  several  miles  of  area,  and 
are  of  remarkable  thickness.  They  are  being  worked  in  several  pits,  and 
would  doubtless  return  a  great  revenue  in  case  of  the  removal  of  the  re- 
strictive trade  regulations  of  the  United  States.  In  the  year  1864  over 
200,000  tons  of  coal  were  raised  from  these  mines. 

Hew  Glasgow  (three  inns)  is  a  town  of  2,600  inhabitants,  largely  en- 
gaged in  shipbuilding  and  having  other  manufactures,  including  foundries 
and  tanneries.  It  is  favorably  situated  on  the  East  River,  and  has  large 
coal-mines  in  the  vicinity.  Here  are  the  main  offices  and  W.  terminus  of 
the  Halifax  &  Cape  Breton  Railway,  running  75  M.  E.  to  the  Strait  of 
Canso. 

The  train  now  descends  by  the  East  River  to  Fisher* »  Grant,  opposite 
the  town  of  Pietou,  to  which  the  passengers  are  conveyed  by  ferry. 


PICTOU. 


BouteSl.       137 


lonial  Railway  at 


garrj/j  which  is 


Pioton  (Eureka ;  Waverley ;  Revere,  etc.)  is  a  flonrishing  town  on  the 
Gulf  shore,  with  3,500  inhabitants,  six  churches,  a  masonic  hall,  two 
weekly  papers,  the  public  buildings  of  Pictou  County,  three  banks, 
a  handsome  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building,  and  the  Pictou  Academy,  founded  on 
the  plan  of  a  Scottish  University  in  1818,  and  now  occupying  a  large  and 
handsome  new  building,  with  museum,  library,  convocation  hall,  etc. 
The  harbor  is  the  finest  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  Gulf,  and  can  accommodate 
ships  of  any  burden,  having  a  depth  of  5-7  fathoms.  The  town  occupies 
a  commanding  position  on  a  hillside  over  a  small  cove  on  the  N.  side  of 
the  harbor;  and  nearly  opposite,  the  basin  is  divided  intn  three  arms,  into 
which  flow  the  East,  Middle,  and  West  Rivers,  on  which  are  the  ship- 
ping wharves  of  the  Albion,  Intercolonial,  Acadia,  and  Vale  Coal  Com- 
panies, whence  immense  quantities  of  coal  are  exported.  There  is  very 
pleasant  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Pictou,  and  good  sea-bathing  on  the 
adjacent  beaches. 

Pictou  has  a  large  coasting  trade ;  is  engaged  in  shipbuilding;  and  has 
a  marine-railway.  It  has  also  tobacco-factories,  carding-mills,  several 
saw  and  grist  mills,  a  foundry,  and  three  or  four  tanneries.  But  the  chief 
business  is  connected  with  the  adjacent  mines  and  the  exportation  of  coal, 
and  with  the  large  freestone  quarries  In  the  vicinity. 

Stages  leave  Pictou  several  times  weekly,  for  River  John,  Tatamagouche,  Wallace, 
Pugwash,  and  Amherst  (see  page  81).  Steamships  leave  (opposite)  Pictou  for  Char- 
lottetown,  Summerside,  and  Shediac,  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  arid  Friday,  on  the 
arrival  of  the  Hali&x  train  (see  Route  44) ;  also  for  the  Oulf  ports  and  Quebec,  every 
Tuesday  at  7  A.  M. ,  and  alternate  Fridays  at  1  p.  M.  (see  Route  63) ;  also  for  Port  Hood 
and  the  Magdalen  Islands  (see  Route  49) ;  and  for  Hawkesbury  and  the  Strait  of 
Canso.  

After  the  divine  Qlooscap  (see  page  106)  had  left  Newfoundland,  where  he  conferred 
upon  the  loons  the  power  of  weirdly  crying  when  they  needed  his  aid,  he  landed  at 
Pictou  (from  Piktook,  an  Indian  word  meaning  "  Bubbling,"  or  '*  OaS'^xploding," 
and  referred  to  the  ebullitions  of  the  water  near  the  great  coal-beds).  Here  he 
created  the  tortoise  tribe,  in  this  wise :  Great  festivals  and  games  were  niade  in  his 
honor  by  the  Indians  of  Pictook,  but  he  chose  to  dwell  with  a  homely,  laay,  and 
despised  old  bachelor  named  Mikchickh,  whom,  after  clothing  in  his  own  robe  and 
giving  hhn  victory  in  the  games,  he  initiated  as  the  progenitor  and  king  of  all  the 
tortoises,  smoking  him  till  his  coat  became  brown  and  as  hard  as  bone,  and  then  re- 
ducing his  size  by  a  rude  surgical  operation. 

The  site  of  Pictou  was  occupied  in  ancient  times  by  a  populous  Indian  village, 
and  <n  1763  the  French  made  futile  preparations  to  found  a  colony  here.  In  1765, 
200,000  acres  of  land  in  this  vicinity  were  granted  to  a  company  in  Philadelphia, 
whence  bands  of  settlers  camo  in  176t  -  71.  Meantime  the  site  of  the  town  had  been 
(^ven  to  an  army  officer,  who  in  turn  sold  it  for  a  horse  and  saddle.  The  Pennsyl- 
vanians  were  disheartened  at  the  severity  of  the  climate  and  the  infertility  of  the 
soil,  and  no  progress  was  made  in  the  new  colony  until  1778,  when  the  ship  Hector 
arrived  with  180  persons  from  the  Scottish  Highlands.  They  were  brought  over  by 
the  Philadelphia  company,  but  when  they  found  that  the  shore  lands  were  all 
taken,  they  refhsed  to  settle  on  the  company's  territory,  and  hence  the  agent  cut 
off  their  supply  of  provisions.  They  subsisted  on  fish  and  venison,  with  a  little 
flour  from  Truro,  until  the  next  spring,  when  they  sent  a  ship-load  of  pine-timber 
to  Britain,  and  planted  wheat  and  pototoes.  Soon  afterwards  they  were  joined  by 
15  destitute  fltmilies  fron  Dumfriesshire ;  and  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War 
many  disbanded  soldiers  settled  here  with  their  families.  In  1786  the  Rev.  James 
MoQregor  came  to  Pictou  and  made  a  home,  and  as  he  was  a  powerful  preacher  in 


-fr' 


t< 


I 


138      MouUSi. 


ANTIGONISH. 


the  OaeUc  langnage,  many  fflghlanden  from  the  other  parts  of  the  ProTlnee  mofcd 
here,  and  new  fanmigrations  arriyed  from  Scotland.  In  1788  the  town  was  com- 
menced on  its  pnieent  site  by  Deacon  Patterson,  and  in  1792  it  was  made  a  shire* 
town.  Great  quantities  of  lumber  were  exported  to  Britain  between  1806  and  1820, 
during  the  period  of  European  convulsion,  when  the  Baltic  ports  were  closed,  and 
while  the  British  navy  was  the  main  hope  of  the  nation.  The  place  was  eaptuied  in 
1777  by  an  American  privateer.  Coal  was  discovered  here  in  1798,  but  the  exporta- 
tion was  small  until  1827,  when  the  General  Mining  Association  of  London  began 
operations. 

J.  W.  Dawson,  LL.  D. ,  F.  R.  S.,  was  bom  at  Pictou  in  1820,  and  jpaduated  at  the 
University  of  Edinburgh  in  1840.  He  studied  and  travelled  with  Sir  Charles  Lyell, 
and  has  become  one  of  the  leaders  among  the  Christian  scientists.  His  greatest  work 
was  the  "  Acadian  Geology."  for  the  past  20  years  he  has  been  Principal  of  the 
McGill  College,  at  Montreal. 

32.   St  John  and  HaliflEa  to  the  Strait  of  Canso  and  Gape 

Breton. 

By  the  Halifax  and  Cape  Breton  Railway. 

This  comparatively  new  route  leaves  the  Intercolonial  Railway  (Pictoa  Brtaeh) 
at  New  Glasgow  (see  page  186),  104  M.  from  Hali&x,  and  258  M.  from  St.  John,  and 
runs  down  to  the  Strait  of  Canso,  where  it  connects  with  a  steam  ferry-boat  to  Cape 
Breton,  and  with  steamboats  to  various  ports  on  the  island.  A  trip  eastward  by  this 
route,  and  a  voyage  on  the  Bras  d'Or,  gives  a  deeply  interesting  excursion. 

Stations.  —  New  Glasgow  to  Glenfalloch,  5^  M.  ;  Merigomish,  9| ;  French 
River,  13^ ;  Piedmont,  18 ;  Avondale,  22  ;  Barney's  River,  23^  ;  Marshy  Hope,  26 ; 
James  River,  30^ ;  Brierly  Brook,  34^ ;  Antigonish,  40  ;  South  River,  45  ;  Taylor's 
Road,  47 ;  Pomquet,  60  ;  Heatherton,  &2i  ;  Afton,  66 ;  Tracadie,  60  ;  Giroirs,  61^  ; 
Little  Tracadie,  65  ;  Harbor  au  Bouche,  69 ;  Cape  Porcupine,  69 ;  Strait  of  Canso, 
74 ;  Wylde's  Cove,  75. 

Express-trains  run  daily,  leaving  New  Glasgow  after  the  arrival  of  the  train  from 
Halifiix.  . 

On  reaching  the  open  country  beyond  New  Glasgow,  the  road  passes  on 
for  several  miles  through  an  uninteresting  region  of  small  farms  and  recent 
clearings.  At  the  crossmg  of  the  Sutherland  River,  a  road  diverges  to  the 
N.  E.,  leading  to  Merigomish,  a  shipbuilding  hamlet  on  the  coast,  with  a  safe 
and  well-sheltered  harbor.  In  this  vicinity  are  iron  and  coal  deposits,  the 
latter  of  which  are  worked  by  the  Merigomish  Coal  Mining  Company,  with 
a  capital  of  $  400,000.  Beyond  the  hamlet  at  the  crossing  of  French  Kiver, 
—  "  which  may  have  seen  better  days,  and  will  probably  see  worse,"  — 
the  road  ascends  a  long  ridge  which  overlooks  the  Piedmont  Valley  to  the 
N.  £.  Thence  it  descends  through  a  sufficiently  dreary  country  to  the 
relay-house  at  Marshy  Hope. 

"  The  sun  has  set  when  we  come  thundering  down  into  the  pretty  Catholic  village 
of  Antticonlfih,  the  most  home-like  place  we  have  seen  on  the  island.  The  twin 
stone  towers  of  the  unfinished  cathedral  loom  up  large  in  the  fiiding  light,  and  the 
bishop's  palace  on  the  hill,  the  home  of  the  Bishop  of  Arichat,  appears  to  be  an  im- 
posing white  barn  with  many  staring  windows People  were  loitering  in  the 

street ;  the  young  beaux  going  up  and  down  with  the  belles,  after  the  leisurely 
manner  in  youth  and  summer.    Perhaps  they  were  students  from  St.  Xavier  Col- 


ANTIOONISH. 


RouUSt.      139 


of  the  tndn  from 


lege,  or  Tidtfaur  gaUsnte  flrom  Ckiysborongh.  They  look  into  the  poet-offloe  and  the 
fluaey  store.  Thej  stroll  and  take  their  little  proTincial  pleuure,  and  make  love, 
for  iM  we  can  see,  as  if  Antigonish  were  a  part  of  the  world.  How  they  most  look 
down  on  Marshy  Hope  and  Addington  Forks  and  Tracadie  i  What  a  charming  place 
to  live  hi  U  this ! "  (Baddeck.) 

AnUgonigh  ^  (two  good  inns),  the  capital  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  long  and  shoal  harbor,  near  St. 
George's  Bay.  Some  shipbuilding  is  done  here,  and  many  cargoes  of 
cattle  and  butter  are  sent  hence  to  Newfoundland.  On  the  E.  shore  of  the 
harbor  are  valuable  deposits  of  gyp»um,  which  are  sent  away  on  coasting- 
vessels.  The  inhabitants  of  the  village  and  the  adjacent  country  are  of 
Scottish  descent,  and  their  unwavering  industry  has  made  Antigonish  a 
prosperous  and  pleasant  town.  The  College  of  St.  Frands  XavUr  is  the 
Diocesan  Seminary  of  the  Franco-Scottish  Diocese  of  Arichat,  and  is  the 
residence  of  the  Bishop.  It  is  a  Catholic  ins';itution,  and  has  six  teachers. 
The  Cathedral  of  St.  Ninian  was  begun  in  1867,  and  was  consecrated  Sep- 
tember 13,  1874,  by  a  Pontifical  High  Mass,  at  which  7  bishops  and  80 
priests  assisted.  It  is  in  the  Roman  Basilica  st^le,  170  by  70  ft.  in  area, 
and  is  built  of  blue  limestone  and  brick.  On  the  facade,  between  the  tall 
square  towers,  is  the  Gaelic  inscription,  Tighe  Dhe  (**  the  House  of  God  "). 
The  arched  roof  is  supported  by  14  Corinthian  columns,  and  the  interior 
has  numerous  windows  of  stained  glass.  The  costly  chancel-window  rep- 
resents Christ,  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  St.  Joseph.  There  is  a  large  organ, 
and  also  a  chin  e  of  bells  named  in  honor  of  St.  Joseph  nnd  the  Scottish 
saints,  Niuian,  Coluihba,  and  Margaret,  Queen  of  Scotland.  This  splen- 
did structure  is  not  too  large  for  the  numerous  congregation  every  Sunday 
from  the  village  and  surrounding  country,  mostly  Highland-Scotch, 
who  frequently  hear  sermons  in  their  own  Gaelic  tongue  from  the  Cathe- 
dral pulpit.  A  few  yards  from  the  Cathedral  there  is  a  neat  three- 
story  building  recently  erected  for  a  Ladies^  Academy,  to  be  conducted 
by  the  Montreal  Sisters  of  the  Congregation.  The  other  denominations 
having  churches  in  Antigonish  are  the  Presbyterians,  the  Anglicans,  and 
the  Baptists.  The  Presbyterian  Church,  on  Main  Street,  is  a  handsome 
structure  with  a  tall  spire.  The  village  has  two  branch  banks  and  two 
weekly  newspapers,  —  The  Aurora^  the  organ  of  the  Bishop  of  Arichat, 
and  The  Casket.  The  county  has  a  population  of  18,100,  devoted  chiefly 
to  agric'ltural  pursuits.  Its  capital  is  a  pretty  village  with  pleasant 
drives  in  the  vicinity.  Nearly  all  the  people  of  the  county  do  their  shop* 
ping  in  the  village,  and  hence  the  numerous  stores  along  its  main  street, 
some  of  them  large  brick  buildings.  The  harbor  is  ill-suited  for  shipping, 
but  the  railway  now  supplies  the  deficiency. 


1  Antigonith,  • 
FUh." 


■  accent  on  the  last  syllablo.    It  is  an  Indian  word,  meaning  "the  RiTer  of 


140     MmOeSi. 


TRACADIE. 


Stages  ran  daOy  from  Antigontsh  S.  to  Sherbrooke  by  Loehaber  and  CoOege  Lak*. 
N.  W.  of  tbe  Tillage  are  the  bold  and  picturesque  highlands  long  known  as  the 
Antlgonlsh  Mta*)  projecting  fW>in  the  Hoe  of  the  coast  about  16  M.  N.  into 
the  Gulf.  They  are,  in  some  places,  1,000  ft.  high,  and  hare  a  strong  and  Wl< 
marked  mountainous  character.  Semi-weekly  stages  run  N.  from  Antigonish  to 
Marristowmknd  OeorgevUle,  respectively  10  and  18  M.  distant.  8-10  H.  N.  of 
the  latter  is  the  bold  promontory  of  Cape  St.  Ctoor^e,  on  which,  400  ft.  abore 
the  sea.  is  a  powerful  revolving  white  light,  which  is  visible  for  25  M.  atrea.  From 
this  point  a  road  runs  S.  W.  to  Mdliynant  Cove,  which  is  also  ucces^ible  by  a  ro> 
mantio  road  through  the  hills  fh>m  Antigonish.  This  is  a  small  seaside  hamlet, 
which  derives  its  name  from  the  flict  that  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Malignant  was  once 
caught  in  these  narrow  waters  during  a  heavy  storm ,  and  was  run  ashore  here  in  order 
to  avoid  being  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  iron-bound  coast  kej-ond.  4-6  M.  beyond 
the  Cove  is  Arlsalff,  a  romantically  situated  settlement  of  Scottish  Catholics',  who 
named  their  new  home  in  memory  of  Arisaig,  in  the  Western  Highlands.  It'has  a 
long  wooden  pier,  under  whose  lee  is  the  only  liarbor  and  shelter  against  east-wiuds 
between  Antigonish  and  Merigomiah. 

The  first  important  station  between  Antigonish  and  the  Strait  is 
Heatherton,  a  Franco-Scotch  district  of  2,000  inhabitants.  A  daily  stage 
connects  the  railway  at  this  station  with  Guysborough,  a  town  on  the 
Atlantic  coast,  about  20  M.  S.  of  Heatherton,  and  the  capital  of  the 
county  of  Guysborough  (see  page  133).  Tracadie  is  in  a  French  district 
of  1,180  inhabitants.  There  is  a  monastery  here,  pertaining  to  the  aus- 
tere order  of  the  Trappists.  Most  of  the  monks,  between  40  and  50  in  num- 
ber, are  from  Belgium.  They  are  excellent  fanners,  and  have  their  land 
thoroughly  cultivated.  There  is  also  a  Convent  of  Sisters  of  Charity  in 
the  vicinity.  The  people  of  Tracadie,  like  all  the  41,219  French  inhab- 
itants of  Nova  Scotia,  belong  to  the  old  Acadian  race,  whose  sad  and 
romantic  history  is  alluded  to  on  pages  108  and  113;  "And  now  we 
passed  through  another  French  settlement,  Tracadie,  and  again  the  Nor- 
man kirtle  and  petticoat  of  the  pastoral,  black-eyed  Evangeline  appear, 
and  then  pass  like  a  day-dream."     (Cozzens.) 

Harbor  au  Bouche  is  a  French  district  of  2,140  inhabitants.  Thfc  village 
is  out  of  sight  of  the  station,  on  St.  George's  Bay,  and  has  two  churches 
and  two  inns.  Beyond  this  point  the  line  soon  reaches  its  terminus,  on  the 
Strait  of  Canso,  where  passengers  for  Cape  Breton  take  steamers. 


CAPE   BRETON. 


The  island  of  Cape  Breton  is  about  100  M.  long  by  80  M.  wide,  and  baa 
an  area  of  2,000,000  acres,  of  which  800,000  acres  consist  of  lakes  and 
swamps.  The  S.  part  is  low  and  generally  level,  but  the  N.  portion  is 
very  irregular,  and  leads  o£f  into  unexplored  highlands.  The  chief  natural 
peculiarities  of  the  island  are  the  Sydney  coal-fields,  which  cover  260 
square  miles  on  the  E.  coast,  and  the  Bras  d*Or,  a  great  lake  of  salt  water, 
ramifying  through  the  centre  of  the  island,  and  communicating  with  the 
sea  by  narrow  channels.  The  exterior  coast  line  is  275  M.  long,  and  is ' 
provided  with  good  harbors  on  the  £.  and  S.  shores. 

The  chief  exports  of  Cape  Breton  are  coal  and  fish,  to  the  United  States; 
timber,  to  England;  and  farm-produce  and  live-stock  to  Newfoundland. 
The  commanding  position  of  the  island  makes  it  the  key  to  the  Canadas, 
and  the  naval  power  holding  these  sliores  could  control  or  crush  the  com- 
merce of  the  Gulf.  The  upland  soils  are  of  good  quality,  and  produce 
valuable  crops  of  cereals,  potatoes,  and  smaller  vegetables. 

The  Editor  trusts  that  the  following  extract  from  Brown's  "  History  of 
the  Island  of  Cape  Breton"  (London :  1869)  will  be  of  interest  to  the 
tourist :  "  The  summers  of  Cape  Breton,  say  from  May  to  October,  may 
challenge  comparison  with  those  of  any  country  wIMr-u  the  temperate 
regions  of  the  world.  During  all  that  time  there  are  pi'rhaps  not  more 
than  ten  foggy  days  in  any  part  of  the  island,  except  along  the  southern 
coast,  between  the  Gut  of  Canso  and  Scatari.  Bright  sunny  days,  with 
balmy  westerly  winds,  follow  each  other  in  succession,  week  after  week, 
while  the  midday  heats  are  often  tempered  by  cool,  refreshing  sea-breezes. 
Of  rain  there  is  seldom  enough;  the  growing  crops  more  often  sufier  from 
too  little  than  too  much." 

"  To  the  tourist  that  loves  nature,  and  who,  for  the  manifold  beauties  by 
hill  and  shore,  by  woods  and  waters,  is  happy  to  make  small  sacrifices  of 
personal  comfort,  I  would  commend  Gape  Breton.  Your  fashionable, 
whose  main  object  is  company,  dress,  and  frivolous  pleasure  with  the  gay, 
and  whose  only  tolerable  stopping-place  is  the  grand  hotel,  had  better 
content  himself  with  reading  of  this  island."    (Noble.  ) 

The  name  of  the  island  is  derived  from  that  of  its  E.  cape,  which  was 
given  in  honor  of  its  discovery  by  Breton  mariners.  In  1718  %\\»  French 
authorities  bestowed  upon  it  the  new  name  of  L'Jsle  BoyaUt  during  the 


rH' 


142     JtmUe  3S.       THE  STRAIT  OF  CANSO. 

reign  of  Louis  XIV.  At  this  time,  after  the  cession  of  Acadia  to  the  Brit- 
ish Grown,  many  of  its  inhabitants  emigrated  to  Gape  Breton ;  and  in 
August,  1714,  the  fortress  of  Louisbonrg  was  founded.  During  the  next 
half-century  occurred  the  terrible  wars  between  France  and  Great  Britain, 
whose  chief  incidents  were  the  sieges  of  Louisbourg  and  the  final  demoli- 
tion of  that  redoubtable  fortress.  In  1765  this  island  was  annexed  to  tlie 
Province  of  Nova  Scotia.  In  1784  it  was  erected  into  a  separate  Province, 
and  continued  as  such  until  1820,  when  it  was  reannexed  to  Nova  Scotia. 
In  1816  Gape  Breton  had  about  10,000  inhabitants,  but  in  1871  its  popula- 
tion amounted  to  76,603,  a  large  proportion  of  whom  were  from  the  Scot- 
tish Highlands. 

33.  The  Strait  of  Canso. 

The  Gut  of  Ganso,  or  (as  it  is  now  more  generally  called)  the  Strait  of 
Ganso,  is  a  picturesque  passage  which  connects  the  Atlantic  Ocean  with 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  separates  the  island  of  Gape  Breton  from 
the  shores  of  Nova  Scotia.  The  banks  are  high  and  mountainous,  covered 
with  spruce  and  other  evergreens,  and  a  succession  of  small  white  ham- 
lets lines  the  coves  on  either  side.  This  grand  avenue  of  commerce 
seems  worthy  of  its  poetic  appellation  of  *'  The  Golden  Gate  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  Gulf."  It  is  claimed  that  more  keels  pass  through  this  channel 
every  year  than  through  any  other  in  the  world  except  the  Strait  of  Gib- 
raltar. It  is  not  only  the  shortest  passage  between  the  Atlantic  and  the 
Gulf,  but  has  the  advantage  of  anchorage  in  case  of  contrary  winds  and  bad 
weather.  The  shores  are  bold-to  and  free  from  dangers,  and  there  are  sev- 
eral good  anchorages,  out  of  the  current  and  in  a  moderate  depth  of  water. 
The  stream  of  the'tide  usually  sets  from  the  S.,  and  runs  in  great  swirling 
eddies,  but  is  much  influenced  by  the  winds.  The  strait  is  described  by 
Dawson  as  "  a  narrow  transverse  valley,  excavated  by  the  currents  of  the 
drift  period,"  and  portions  of  its  shores  are  of  the  carboniferous  epoch. 

The  Strait  of  Ganso  is  traversed  by  several  thousand  sailing-yeseels  every  year,  and 
also  by  the  large  steamers  of  the  Boston  and  Colonial  Steamship  Company. 

^'So  ^th  renewed  anticipations  we  ride  on  toward  the  strait  'of  unrivalled 
beauty,'  that  traTellera  say  '  surpasses  anything  in  America.'  And,  indeed,  Canseau 
can  have  my  feeble  testimony  in  confirmation.  It  is  a  grand  marine  highway,  hav- 
ing steep  hills  on  the  Gape  Breton  Island  side,  and  lofty  mountains  on  the  other 
shore ;  a  fhll,  broad,  mile-wide  space  between  tiiem ;  and  reaching,  from  end  to  end, 
fifteen  miles,  firom  the  Atlantic  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence."    (Gozzens.) 

Vessels  from  the  S.,  bound  for  the  Strait  of  Ganso,  first  approach  the 
Nova-Scotian  shores  near  Cape  Canso  (see  page  184),  whose  lights  and 
islands  are  rounded,  and  the  course  lies  between  N.  W.  and  W.  N.  W. 
towards  Eddy  Point.  If  a  fog  prevails,  the  steam-whistle  on  Cranberry 
Island  will  be  heard  giving  out  its  notes  of  warning,  sounding  for  8  seconds 
in  each  minute,  and  heard  for  20  M.  with  the  wind,  for  16  M.  in  calm 


PORT  HASTINGS. 


RouU  SS.      143 


weather,  and  6  -  8  M.  in  stormy  weather  and  against  the  wind.  On  the  L 
is  Cbedabucto  Bay,  stretching  in  to  Guysborough,  lined  along  its  S.  shore 
by  hills  3-700  ft.  high;  and  on  the  r.  the  Isle  Madame  is  soon  approached. 
28-30  M.  beyond  Cape  Ganso  the  vessel  passes  Eddy  Pointy  on  which  are 
two  fixed  white  lights  (visible  8  M).  On  the  starboard  beam  is  Janvrin 
Island,  beyond  which  is  the  broad  estuary  of  Habitants  Bay.  On  the 
Cape-Breton  shore  is  the  hamlet  of  Bear  Point,  and  on  the  1.  are  Melford 
Creel'  (with  its  church),  Steep  Creek,  and  Pirate's  Cove.  The  hamlets  of 
Port  Mulgrave  and  Port  Hawkesbury  are  now  seen,  nearly  opposite  each 
other,  and  half-way  up  the  strait. 

Fort  Mulgrave  (two  inns)  is  a  village  of  about  400  inhabitants,  on  the 
Nova-Scotia  side  of  the  strait.  I^  is  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  has  a 
harbor  which  remains  open  all  the  year  round.  Gold-bearing  quartz  is 
found  in  the  vicinity ;  and  bold  hills  tower  above  the  shore  for  a  long  dis- 
tance. A  steam  ferry-boat  plies  between  this  point  and  Port  Uawkesbnry, 
1|  M.  distant,  in  connection  with  the  Halifax  and  Cape-Breton  Railway, 
running  down  from  New  Glasgow,  through  Autigonish  (see  page  138). 

Fort  Hawkesbury  {Hawkesbury  Hotel,  comfortable;  Acadia  Hotel)  is  a 
village  of  about  900  inhabitants,  on  the  Cape-Breton  side  of  the  strait.  It 
is  situated  on  Ship  Harbor,  a  snug  haveu  for  vessels  of  20-ft.  draught, 
marked  by  a  fixed  red  light  on  Tupper  Point.  This  is  the  best  harbor 
on  the  strait,  and  has  very  good  holding-ground.  The  village  is  of  a  scat- 
tered appearance,  and  has  four  small  churches.  There  are  several  wharves 
here,  which  are  visited  by  the  Boston  and  Halifax  steamers,  and  other 
lines.  Stages  run  hence  to  Sydney,  Arichat,  and  West  Bay,  on  the  Bras 
d'Or;  and  a  railway  has  been  surveyed  to  the  latter  point.  ,  The  steam- 
ships that  ply  between  Boston  and  Prince  Edward  Island  weekly,  call  at 
Port  Hawkesbury. 

Fort  Hastings  (more  generally  known  as  Plaster  Cove)  is  about  3  M. 
above  Port  Hawkesbury,  on  the  Cape-Breton  shore,  and  is  built  on  the 
blufEs  over  a  small  harbor  \tx  which  is  a  Government  wharf.  From  this 
point  the  Cape-Breton  mails  are  distributed  through  the  island  by  means 
of  the  stage-lines.  The  village  is  much  smaller  than  Port  Hawkesbury,  and 
has  a  lucrative  country-trade,  besides  a  large  exportation  of  fish  and  cat- 
tle to  Newfoundland  and  the  United  States.  It  derives  its  chief  interest 
from  iiieing  the  point  where  the  Atlantic-Cable  Company  transfers  its  mes- 
sages, received  from  all  parts  of  Europe  and  delivered  under  the  sea,  to 
the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Company,  by  which  the  tidings  are  sent 
away  through  the  Dominion  and  the  United  States.  The  telegraph-ofiSce 
is  in  a  small  building  near  the  strait.  The  hotel  at  this  village  has  been 
justly  execrated  in  several  books  of  travel,  but  occupies  a  noble  situation, 
overlooking,  from  a  high  bluff,  the  Strait  of  Canso  for  several  miles  to 
the  S.  E.  Near  this  building  is  the  consulate  of  the  United  States,  over 
which  floats  the  flag  of  the  Republic. 


144     RouU  SS, 


CANSO. 


Nearly  opposite  Port  Hastings  is  the  bold  and  shaggy  headland  of  Cap* 
Porcupine^  attaining  a  height  of  640  ft.,  and  contracting  the  strait  to  its 
narrowest  part.  The  stream  now  widens  slowly,  with  16-20  fathoms  of 
water,  and  at  its  N.  entrance  (W.  side)  the  steamer  passes  a  lighthouse, 
which  Bustahis  a  powerful  fixed  white  light,  110  ft.  above  the  water,  and 
visible  from  Cape  St.  George  to  Port  Hood. 

Canso  was  in  the  earlier  dayii  called  Campseau.  or  Canseau,  and  the  word  Is 
derived  from  the  Indian  Camaoke,  which  eignifles  ''  facing  the  frowning  cliffs."  It 
is  alHO  claimed  that  the  name  is  derived  from  the  Spanish  word  Ganso,  eignifVing 
'•  goose,"  in  aU«if«ion  to  the  great  flocks  of  wild  geese  sometimes  seen  here.  Here 
the  Micmac  traditions  locate  the  marvellous  transit  of  the  divine  Qlooscap  (see  page 
106),  who  was  stopped  by  these  deep  waters  while  on  his  way  to  attack  a  mighty  wiz- 
ard in  Newfoundland.  He  summoned  from  the  sea  a  whale,  who  bore  him  across 
the  strait,  like  a  new  Arion,  and  landed  him  on  the  Breton  shores. 

For  many  years  the  Strait  of  Canso  was  called  the  Passage  de  Ft  ansae,  on  all  the 
old  French  maps  and  charts,  in  honor  of  the  Sieur  de  Fronsac,  the  able  and  enter- 

Strising  Governor  of  Cape  Breton ;  and  in  1518,  over  a  century  before  Plymouth  wa« 
bunded,  it  was  visited  by  the  Baron  de  Lery,  who  designed  forming  a  settlement  on 
these  shores,  and  left  a  considerable  number  of  swine  and  cattle  here.  Savalette 
frequented  this  vicinity,  for  the  purposes  of  fishing,  from  the  year  1568 ;  and  in 
1604  De  Monts  fou^d  hero  four  Basque  ships  {ttom  St.  Jean  de  Luz)  trading  with 
tlie  Indians.  Three  years  later  a  Dutch  vessel  entered  Canso,  and  excited  the  terri- 
ble hosting  of  the  Indians  by  rifling  the  graves  of  their  dead  in  order  to  strip  off 
the  beaver-^kins  in  which  the  corpses  were  wrapped.  Pontgrav^  cruised  about  these 
waters  for  a  long  time,  protecting  the  monopolized  fur-trade. 

A  fortress  and  rendezvous  for  fishermen  was  soon  established  near  Cape  Canso,  at 
the  harbor  of  Canso.  In  1688  the  Canso  station  and  the  sedentary  fishery  wera 
plundered  by  an  expedition  from  Boston,  con{:isting  of  a  crew  of  West-Indian  pri- 
vateersmen.  They  entered  these  waters  in  a  10-gun  vessel  called  a  barealonga,  ancf 
carried  away  a  French  ship  from  the  harbor.  After  the  conquest  of  Acadia,  the 
New-England  fishermen  occupied  the  harbor  of  Canso,  and  erected  dwellings  and 
warehouses.  In  1720  the  settlements  were  attacked  at  night  by  powerful  Indian 
bands,  and  completely  plundered,  though  most  of  the  fishermen  escaped  to  their 
vessels.  They  loaded  several  French  vessels  with  the  proceeds  of  the  raid,  and  then 
retired  to  the  forest.  In  1722  the  Massachusetts  fishing-vessels  were  captured  here  by 
the  Indians,  and  were  followed  by  armed  vessels  of  that  Province,  who  retook  them 
after  a  naval  battle.  H.  M.  S.  Squirrel  seized  some  illegal  French  traders  here  in 
1718 ;  and  in  1724  a  prize-vessel  was  boarded  by  the  savages  in  the  Gut  of  Canso,  and 
all  its  crew  were  killed  or  captured.  During  the  subsequent  peace  New  England  had 
1,600  -  2,000  men  here  in  the  fisheries,  and  in  1788,  46,000  quintals  of  dry  fish  were 
exported  hence.  When  the  war-clouds  were  lowering,  in  1787,  the  British  had  100 
soldiers  in  garrison  here,  and  II.  M.  S.  EUham  was  kept  in  the  Strait  as  a  guard- 
ship.  In  1744  M.  Duvivier  attacked  Canso  at  the  head  of  670  men,  French  Aca- 
dians  and  Micmacs,  and  soon  captured  and  destroyed  it.  In  1745  Pepperell  reached 
Canso  with  8  regiments  of  Massachusetts  troops  and  New-Hampshire  and  Connecti- 
cut regiments,  and  here  he  remained  for  some  weeks,  drilling  his  men  and  erecting 
fortifications.  At  a  later  day  Commodore  Warren  arrived  here  with  the  British 
West-Indian  fleet,  the  Superb,  60,  Launeeston,  40,  Mermaid,  40,  EUham,  and  other 
ships. 

The  British  war-veseel  Little  Jack,  6  guns,  was  cruising  about  the  Strait  of  Canfo  in 
1781,  when  she  met  two  Marblehead  privateers.  Securing  a  favorable  position  near 
Petit  de  Grat,  a  shore-battery  was  formed,  and  the  cutter  was  anchored  with  springs 
on  her  cable.  After  a  sharp  action,  one  of  the  privateers  was  crippled  and  forced  to 
surrender,  and  the  other  made  haste  to  escape.  The  Americans  were  paroled  at  Petit 
de  Grat,  and  the  vessel  was  taken  to  Quebec. 

After  the  close  of  the  American  Revolution,  the  S.  end  of  the  Strait  of  Canso  was 
occupied  by  a  colony  of  Loyalists  from  Florida,  who  suffered  terribly  from  the  com- 
parative inclemency  of  the  climate.  The  present  inliabitants  of  these  shores  are 
mostly  of  Scottish  descent,  a  hardy  and  intrepid  people.  So  late  as  the  year  1787 
there  was  not  one  settler  on  the  Breton  side  of  the  strait,  and  the  immigration  has 
mostly  occurred  during  the  present  century. 


ARICHAT. 


ltouU34.      145 


81  Aiiohat  and  Ide  Madama 

A  mail-stage  runs  daily  from  Port  Hawkesbury  to  Aricbat,  80  M.  S.  E., 
passing  near  the  sea-sliore  hamlets  of  Caribacou  and  Lower  River  Inhab- 
itants, and  approaching  the  Scottish  village  of  Grand  Anse.  At  the  French 
fishing-settlement  of  Grand  Digue^  the  passenger  is  ferried  across  the 
Lennox  Passage,  a  long  and  picturesque  strait  which  separates  Isle 
Madame  from  the  Breton  shores.    Steamers  run  from  Halifax  to  Arichat. 

Isle  Madame  is  16  M.  in  length  from  E.  to  W.,  and  about  6  M.  In 
breadth.  Its  surface  Is  very  irregular,  though  of  but  moderate  elevation, 
and  the  central  part  is  occupied  by  a  small  lake.  It  was  settled  over  a 
century  ago,  by  exiles  from  Acadia,  whose  descendants  now  occupy  the 
land,  and  are  pious  Catholics  and  daring  seamen. 

In  1760  the  French  explorer  of  Isle  Madame  found  113  inhabitants  here,  "  who 
live  as  they  can,"  on  a  sterile  soil,  and  barely  maintained  by  some  petty  fisheries. 
He  closes  his  account  by  saying,  "  We  quitted  this  country  vith  no  regret,  except 
that  we  must  leave  there  so  many  miserable  people." 

Ariohat  (two  indifferent  inns)  is  the  capital  of  Richmond  County,  and 
is  the  most  important  fishing-station  between  Halifax  and  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland. It  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  of  Acadian- 
French  origin,  and  are  connected  in  some  way  with  the  sea.  The  fisheries 
of  which  this  port  is  the  centre  are  connected  with  the  great  establish- 
ments on  the  Isle  of  Jersey  (in  the  English  Channel),  like  those  of  Cheti- 
camp,  Gaspd,  and  Paspebiac.  There  is  also  an  American  firm  located 
here,  engaged  in  the  canning  of  lobsters.  The  town  is  scattered  along  the 
steep  N.  shore  of  a  spacious  and  secure  harbor,  which  is  sheltered  by 
Jerseyman  Island,  and  is  "  capable  of  containing  any  number  of  the  largest 
ships."  The  spacious  Catholic  church  in  the  W.  part  of  the  town  is  pro- 
vided with  a  chime  of  bells,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  Coadjutor  Bishop  of 
Arichat,  whose  diocese  includes  Cape  Breton  and  the  E.  counties  of  Nova 
Scotia.  It  is  claimed  that  "  The  Sisters  of  the  Congi'egation  of  Notre 
Dame,  of  Montreal,  have  a  grand  and  flourishing  academy  for  female  edu- 
cation of  the  highest  order  in  the  town  of  Arichat.*'  E.  of  the  cathedral  is 
the  Richmond  County  Court-House,  surmounted  by  a  cupola.  There  are 
also  an  English  academy  and  an  Anglican  church  in  the  town.  On  the 
S.  W.  is  seen  the  lighthouse,  bearing  a  fixed  red  light,  which  guides  mari- 
ners through  the  Grid  Passage  and  into  the  harbor. 

To  the  W.  is  the  settlement  of  Little  Arichat^  extending  along  the  coast 
for  several  miles,  and  having  undeveloped  coal  deposits.  There  are  over 
1,600  inhabitants  in  this  town,  all  of  whom  are  French.  3-4  M.  E.  of 
Arichat  is  the  Acadian  fishing-hamlet  of  Petit  de  Grat,  with  nearly  2,000 
inhabitants;  and  D^Escmuse  is  another  place  of  similar  pursuits,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Bay  of  Rocks. 


146     Route  35. 


ST.  PETER'S. 


I  'I 


I    ! 


35.  The  Strait  of  Canso  to  Sydney,  G.  B. 

By  the  way  of  the  landj  through  St,  Peter^s. 

The  Royal  mail-stage  leaves  Port  Hawkesbury  every  morning,  some  time  after  the 
arrival  of  the  Antigonish  stage,  and  runs  £.  and  N.  £.  to  Sydney.  Fare,  9  6.  Tbia 
Is  one  of  the  most  arduous  routes  by  which  Sydney  can  be  approached,  and  leads 
through  a  thinly  settled  and  uninteresting  country  until  St.  Peter's  is  reached. 
Beyond  that  point  there  is  a  series  of  attractive  views  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  and  St. 
Andrew's  Channel,  continuing  almost  to  Sydney. 

Distances.  —  (Port  Hastings  to  Port  Hawkesbury,  4-5  M.)  Port  Hawkesbury 
to  Orand  Anfie,21  M. ;  St.  Peter's,  35;  Bed  Island,  62;  Irish  Cove,  64;  Sydney, 

J>Vv* 

There  is  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller  during  the  first  part  of  the 
journey.  After  leaving  Port  Hawkesbury,  the  stage  enters  a  rugged  and 
unpromising  country,  leaving  the  populous  shores  of  Canso  and  pushing 
E.  to  the  River  Inhabitants.  Crossing  that  stream  where  it  begins  to  nar- 
row, the  road  continues  through  a  region  of  low  bleak  hills,  with  occasional 
views,  to  the  r.,  of  the  deeper  coves  of  the  Lennox  Passage.  Before  noon 
it  reaches  the  narrow  Haulover  Isthmus,  which  separates  St.  Peter's  Bay, 
on  the  Atlantic  side,  from  St.  Peter's  Inlet,  on  the  Bras  d'Orside.  At  this 
point  is  situated  the  village  of  St.  Peter's  (two  inns),  a  Scottish  settlement 
near  the  bay.  The  canal  which  has  been  constructed  here  to  open  com- 
munication between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Bras  d'Or  is  ^  M.  long,  26  ft. 
wide,  and  13  ft.  deep,  and  is  expected  to  be  of  much  benefit  to  the  Bras 
d'Or  villages.  It  has  been  finished  within  a  few  years,  and  pertains  to  the 
Government,  which  takes  a  small  toll  from  the  vessels  passing  through. 
S.  E.  of  St.  Peter's  are  the  bluff  heights  of  Mt.  Granville,  and  to  the  N.  W. 
are  the  uninhabited  highlands  which  are  called  on  the  maps  the  Sporting 
Mts. 

St.  Peter's  waa  founded  by  M.  Denys,  about  the  year  1636,  to  command  the  lower 
end  of  the  Braa  d'Or,  aa  his  post  at  St.  Anne's  commanded  the  upper  end.  He  built 
a  portage-road  here,  opened  farm-lands,  and  erected  a  fort  which  mounted  several 
cannon.  The  Indians  residing  on  the  most  remote  arms  of  the  Bras  d'Or  were  thus 
enabled  to  visit  and  carry  their  fhrs  and  fish  to  either  one  of  Denys's  forts.  Denys 
himself,  together  with  the  fort,  the  ship,  and  all  other  property  here,  was  captured 
soon  after  by  a  naval  force  sent  out  by  M.  le  Borgne.  But  in  l(i66  l)t>nys  retook  his 
posts,  guarded  by  a  charter  from  King  Louis.  A  few  years  later  St.  Peter's  was 
captured  by  La  Giraudiere,  but  was  afterwards  restored  to  Denys,  who,  however, 
abandoned  the  island  about  1670,  when  all  his  buildings  at  this  post  were  destroyed 
by  flre.  In  1737  St.  Peter's  was  fortified  by  M.  de  St.  Ovide,  the  commandant  at 
Louisbourg ;  but  during  the  New-England  crusade  against  the  latter  city,  in  1745, 
it  was  captured  and  plundered  by  Col.  Moulton's  Massachusetts  regiment.  In  1762 
St.  Peter's  waa  the  chief  depot  of  the  fur-trade  with  the  Miemacs,  and  was  sur- 
rounded with  fruitful  farms.  It  was  then  called  Port  Toulottse,  and  was  connected 
with  Louisbourg  by  a  military  road  18  leagues  in  length,  constructed  by  the  Count 
de  Raymond.  Besides  the  garrison  of  French  troops,  there  was  a  civil  population 
of  230  souls ;  and  in  1760  Port  Toulouse  had  grown  to  be  a  larger  town  than  even 
Louisbourg  itself.  The  King  of  France  afterwards  reprimanded  the  Count  de  Ray- 
mond for  constructing  his  military  road,  saying  that  it  would  afford  the  English  an 
opportunity  to  attack  Louisbourg  on  the  landward  side. 

From  the  Strait  of  Canso  to  Grand  River  the  coast  is  occupied  by  a  line  of  humble 
and  retired  villages,  inhabited  by  Acadian-French  fishermen.  7-8  M.  S.  £.  of  St. 
Peter's  are  the  VArdoise  settlements  (so  named  because  a  slate-quarry  was  once 
worked  here).    In  1760  there  wag  a  large  French  village  here,  with  a  garrison  of 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


Route  SS.      147 


troopi,  and  L'Ardoiw  was  the  chief  depot  of  the  Air-trade  with  the  Indians.  At 
Grand  River  the  character  of  the  population  changes,  though  the  names  of  the  set> 
tlement  would  indicate,  were  history  silent,  that  the  towns  beyond  that  point  were 
oiiginaily  founded  by  the  French.  They  are  now  occupied  exciusively  by  the  Scotch, 
whose  light  Teasels  put  out  from  the  harbors  of  Grand  River,  L'Archevique,  St. 
Esprit,  Blancherot»e,  Framboise,  and  Fourchu,  on  which  are  fishing-villages. 

A  few  miles  N.  E.  of  St.  Peter's  the  stage  crosses  the  Indian  Reserva- 
tion near  Louis  Cove.  Chaptl  Island  is  a  little  way  off  shore,  and  is  the 
largest  of  the  group  of  islets  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's  Inlet.  These 
islands  were  granted  by  the  government,  in  1792,  to  the  Micmac  chiefs 
Bask  and  Tomma,  for  the  use  of  their  tribe,  and  have  ever  since  been  re- 
tained by  their  descendants.  On  the  largest  island  is  a  Catholic  chapel 
where  all  the  Micmacs  of  Cape  Breton  gather,  on  the  festival  of  St.  Anne, 
every  year,  and  pass  several  days  in  religious  ceremonies  and  aboriginal 
games.  Beyond  this  point  the  road  runs  N.  E.  between  Soldier's  Cove  and 
the  bold  highlands  on  the  r.  and  traverses  the  Red-Island  Settlement,  off 
which  are  the  Red  Islands. 

"  The  road  that  skirts  the  Arm  of  Gold  is  about  100  M.  in  length.  After  leaving 
Sydney  you  ride  beside  the  Spanish  Kiver  a  short  distance,  until  you  come  to  the 
portage,  which  separates  it  from  the  lake,  and  then  you  follow  the  delicious  curve 

of  the  great  beach  until  you  arrive  at  St.  Peter's There  is  not  a  lovelier  ride 

by  white-pebbled  beach  and  wide  stretch  of  wave.  Now  wo  roll  along  amidst  pri- 
meval trees, —  not  the  evergreens  of  the  8<>a-coast,  but  familiar  growths  of  maple, 
beech,  birch,  and  larches,  juniper,  or  hackmatack, — imperishable  for  shipcraft; 

now  we  cross  bridges,  over  sparkling  brooks  alive  with  trout  and  salmon To 

hang  now  in  our  curricle,  upon  this  wooded  hill-top,  overlooking  the  clear  surfitce 
of  the  lake,  with  leafy  island,  and  peninsula  dotted  in  its  depths,  in  all  its  native 
grace,  without  a  touch  or  trace  of  handiwork,^  far  or  near,  save  and  except  a  siagle 
spot  of  sail  in  the  far-off,  is  holy  and  sublime."  (Cozzens.) 

About  10  M.  beyond  the  Red  Island  Settlemeut  is  the  way-ofBce  and  vil- 
lage at  Irish  Cove,  whence  a  road  runs  10  - 12  M.  S.  E.  across  the  highlands 
to  the  Grand-River  Lake,  or  Loch  Lomond^  a  picturesque  sheet  of  water 
5-6  M.  long,  studded  with  islets  and  abounding  in  trout.  The  Scottish 
hamlets  of  Loch  Lomond  and  Lochside  are  on  its  shores;  and  on  the  N., 
and  connected  by  a  narrow  strait,  is  Loch  Uist,  The  road  crosses  the 
lake  and  descends  to  Framboise  Harbor,  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

N.  of  Loch  Uist,  and  about  7  M.  ft*om  the  Bras  d'Or,  is  a  remarkable  saline  spring, 
containing  in  each  gallon  343  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  308  of  chloride  of  cal- 
cium, and  9  of  the  chlorides  of  magnesium  and  potassium.  This  water  is  singularly 
free  from  sulphurous  contamination,  and  has  been  found  very  eflicient  in  cases  of 
asthma,  rheumatism,  and  chronic  headache.  There  are  no  accommodations  for 
visitors. 

About  6  M.  N.  W.  of  Irish  Cove  is  seen  Benacadie  Point,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  East  Bay,  a  picturesque  inlet  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  which  ascends  for 
18-20  M.  to  the  N.  E.,  and  is  bordered  by  lines  of  bold  heights.  Near  its 
N.  shore  are  several  groups  of  islands,  and  the  depth  of  the  bay  is  from 
8  to  32  fathoms.  The  stage  follows  its  shore  to  the  upper  end.  Above 
Irish  Cove  the  road  lies  between  the  bay  and  a  mountain  600  ft.  high,  be- 
yond which  is  Cape,Iihumore.  8-4  M.  farther  on  is  Loch  an  Fad,  beyond 
which  a  roadside  chapel  is  seen,  and  the  road  passes  on  to  Edoobekuk, 


148     RouU  96, 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


between  the  heights  and  the  blue  water.  The  opposite  shore  (4  M.  dis- 
tant) is  occupied  by  the  Indians,  whose  principal  village  is  called  JEacasoniy 
and  is  situated  near  the  group  of  islands  in  Crane  Cove.  The  bay  now 
diminishes  to  2  M  in  width,  and  is  followed  to  its  source  in  the  lagoon  of 
Tweednogie.  The  aggregate  number  of  inhabitants,  Scottish  and  Indian, 
along  the  shores  of  the  East  Bay,  is  a  little  over  2,000.  The  stage  crosses 
the  narrow  isthmus  (4-5  M.),  and  then  follows  the  line  of  the  Forks 
Lake  and  the  Spanish  River,  to  the  town  of  Sydney. 
Sydneyt  see  page  150. 


36.  Halifax  to  Sydney,  Cape  Breton. 

By  the  Sea, 

■f'-     -  .       ', 

There  are  several  routes  by  sea  between  Halifax  and  Sydney,  the  &res  being 
$  8-10.  The  tourist  should  send  a  note  to  the  steamship-ageats,  at  Halifax,  for  par- 
ticulars. 

The  easiest  route  from  Boston  is  by  steamship  to  Port  Hawkesbury,  on  the  Strait 
of  Cansn,  and  thence  up  the  Bras  d'Or. 

There  are  now  several  steamboats  plying  on  the  Bras  d'Or,  giving  the  best  of 
fiusilities  (flrom  the  Provincial  point  of  view)  for  visiting  the  various  ports  and  villa- 
ges of  this  lovely  inland  sea. 

Halifax  Harbor,  see  page  93.  •  >;. 

The  course  of  the  steamship  is  almost  always  within  sight  of  land,  a 
cold,  dai'k,  and  rock-bound  corfst,  off  which  are  submerged  ledges  on 
which  the  sea  breaks  into  white  foam.  This  coast  is  described  in  Routes 
28  and  29 ;  but  of  its  aspect  from  the  sea  the  Editor  can  say  nothing,  as 
he  was  obliged  to  traverse  the  route  as  far  as  Canso  by  night. 

After  passing  the  bold  headland  of  Cape  Canso,  the  deep  bight  of  Ched- 
abucto  Bay  is  seen  on  the  W.,  running  in  to  Guysborough  and  the  Strait 
of  Canso.  Between  Cape  Canso  and  Red  Po'nt,  on  Cape  Breton,  the  open- 
ing is  about  80  M.  wide,  inside  of  which  are  Isle  Madame  (Route  34)  and 
St.  Peter's  Bay.  The  course  of  the  vessel,  after  crossing  this  wide  open- 
ing, converges  toward  the  Breton  coast,  which  is,  however,  low  and  with- 
out character,  and  is  studded  with  white  fishing-hamlets.  St.  Esprit  is 
visible,  with  its  little  harbor  indenting  the  coast. 

About  the  middle  of  the  last  century  the  British  frigate  Tilbuty,  64,  was  caught 
on  this  shore  during  a  heavy  gale  of  wind,  and  was  unable  to  work  off,  in  spite  of 
the  utmost  exertions  of  her  great  crew.  The  Tilbury  Rocks,  off  St.  Esprit,  still 
commemorate  the  place  where  she  finally  struck  and  went  to  pieces.  200  sailors 
T  ere  cither  drowned  or  killed  by  being  dashed  on  the  sharp  rocks,  and  200  men  and 
15  officers  were  saved  from  the  waves  by  the  French  people  of  St.  Esprit,  who  nour- 
ished and  sheltered  them  with  tender  care.  England  and  France  being  then  at  war, 
the  survivors  of  the  Tilbury''s  crew  were  despatched  to  France  as  prisoners,  on  the 
French  frigate  Hermione.  This  vessel  was,  however,  captured  in  the  English  Chan- 
nel, and  the  sailors  were  released. 

Beyond  St.  Esprit  the  coves  of  Framboise  and  Fonrchu  make  in  from 


CAPE  BBETON. 


RouU  S6.      149 


ibary,  on  the  Strait 


s.    St.  Esprit  is 


I  make  in  from 


the  sea,  and  ^Y     *  the  deep  iolet  of  Gabaras  Bay  the  lighthoose  of  Lonis- 
bourg  (see  Rou     38)  may  perhaps  be  seen. 

lu  1744  the  French  ahips  Notre  Dame  de  la  Dilivfanee,  Louis  £rasme,  and  Marquis 
eTAntin  sailed  from  Callao  (Peru),  with  a  vast  amount  of  treasure  on  board,  con- 
cealed under  a  surface-cargo  of  cocoa.  The  two  latter  were  captured  off  the  Azores 
by  the  British  privateers  Frince  Frederick  and  Duke,  but  during  the  3  hour,  action 
the  Notre  Dame  escaped.  Not  diring  to  approach  the  French  coast  while  so  many 
hostile  privateers  were  cruising  about,  she  crowded  all  sail  and  bore  away  for  Louis- 
bourg.  20  days  later  she  sigUted  Scatari,  and  it  seemed  that  her  valuable  cargo 
wa''  already  safe.  But  she  was  met,  a  short  distance  to  the  S  ,  by  a  British  fleet, 
and  became  a  prize.  Among  the  people  captured  on  the  Notre  Dame  was  Doa 
Antonio  d'UUoa,  the  famous  Spanish  scientist,  who  was  kept  here  in  light  captivity 
for  two  months,  and  who  afterwards  wrote  an  interesting  book  about  Capo  Breton. 
The  lucky  vessels  that  made  the  capture  were  the  Sunderland,  Boston,  and  Chester^ 
and  their  crews  had  great  prize-money, — for  over  $4,000,000  was  found  on  the 
Notre  Dame,  in  bars  and  ingots  of  gold  and  silver. 

In  1756  the  French  frigate  Arc-en- Ciel,  50,  and  the  Amitii  were  captured  in  these 
waters  by  II.  B.  M.  ships  Centurion  and  Success.  In  July,  1756,  the  French  vessels 
Hiros,  1\,lllustre,  64,  and  two  33-gun  frigates  met  H  B.  M.  ships  Grqflon,  70,  Not- 
tingham,  «0,  and  the  Jamaica  sloop,  and  fought  from  mid-afternoon  till  dark.  The 
action  was  indecisive,  and  each  fleet  cliiimed  that  the  other  stole  away  at  night. 
The  loss  of  men  on  both  sides  was  considerable. 

In  May,  1745,  a  gallant  naval  action  was  fought  hereabouts  between  the  French 
Bhip-of-the-line  Vigilant  and  Com.  Warren's  fleet,  consisting  of  the  Suptrb  (60-gun 
ship ) ,  and  the  Launceston,  Mermaid,  and  Eltham  (40-gun  frigates).  The  Vigilant  was 
carrying  a  supply  of  military  goods  from  Brest  to  Louisbourg,  and  met  the  Her' 
maid,  standing  off  and  on  in  the  fog.  The  latter  made  sail  and  fled  toward  the 
squadron,  and  the  Vigilant  swept  on  in  the  fog  and  ran  into  the  midst  of  the 
Briti.Hh  fleet.  Warren's  ships  opened  fire  on  every  side,  but  the  French  captain, 
the  Marquis  de  Maisonforte,  refused  to  surrender,  though  his  decks  were  covered 
with  stores  and  his  lower  batteries  were  below  the  water-line  by  reason  of  the  heavy 
cargo.  The  battle  was  terrific,  and  lasted  for  7  hours,  while  Maisonforte  kept  hu 
colors  flying  and  his  cannon  roaring  until  all  his  rigging  was  cut  away  by  the  British 
shot,  the  rudder  was  broken,  the  forecastle  battered  to  pieces,  and  great  numbers 
of  the  crew  wounded  or  dead. 

The  steamship  now  runs  out  to  round  Scatari,  traversing  waters  which 
maintain  a  uniform  depth  of  over  30  fathoms.  On  the  W.  is  the  promon- 
tory of  Cape  Breton,  from  which  the  island  receives  its  name.  It  is  a  low 
headland,  oflf  which  is  the  dark  rock  of  Porto  Nuevo  Island. 

There  is  an  old  French  tradition  to  the  eflect  that  Yerazzano,  the  eminent  Floren- 
tine navigator,  landed  near  Cape  Breton  on  his  last  voyage,  and  attempted  to  found 
a  fortified  settlement.  But  being  suddenly  attacked  and  overpowered  by  the  Indians, 
himself  and  all  his  crew  were  put  to  death  in  a  crnel  manner.  It  is  known  to  hJa- 
tory  that  this  discoverer  was  never  heard  from  after  leaving  France  on  his  last  voy- 
age (in  1525). 

It  is  believed  that  Cape  Breton  was  first  visited  by  the  Marigold  (70  tons),  in 
15i>3;  whereof  it  is  written  :  *'  Here  diners  of  our  men  went  on  land  vpon  the  very 
cape,  where,  at  their  arriuall  they  found  tlie  spittes  of  oke  of  the  Sauagus  which  had 
roasted  meate  a  little  before.  And  as  they  viewed  the  countrey  they  saw  diners 
beastes  and  foules,  as  blacke  foxes,  deeres,  otters,  great  foules  with  redde  legges,pen- 
guines,  and  certaine  others."  Thence  the  Marigold  sailed  to  the  site  of  Louisbourg, 
where  her  crew  landed  to  get  water,  but  were  driven  off  shore  by  the  Indians. 

The  cape  probably  owes  its  name  to  the  fact  of  its  being  visited  by  the  Breton  and 
Basque  fishermen,  who  in  those  days  frequen>ed  these  seas.  Cape  Breton  was  at 
th  it  time  a  prosperous  commercial  city,  near  Bayonne,  in  the  South  of  France.  It 
was  frequented  by  the  Huguenots  about  this  time,  and  had  larcre  fleets  engaged  in 
the  fisheries.  By  the  ohan^ng  of  the  course  of  the  Adour  River,  and  the  drifting  of 
sand  into  its  harbor,  its  maritime  importance  was  taken  away, and  in  1841  ithad  uut 
920  inhabitants.    (Dietionnaire  EneyelopMique.) 

In  1629  Lord  Ochiltree,  the  son  of  the  Earl  of  Anan,  OMne  out  with  00  colonists, 


li 


150     Route  S6. 


SYDNEY. 


and  founded  a  town  on  the  harbor  of  Baleine,  S.  E.  of  Cape  Breton.  The  hcadatrong 
Scottish  noble  was  arbitrary  in  his  dealings  with  the  French  fishermen  on  the  coast, 
and  wns  soon  attaclted  by  a  ftrong  body  of  Normans.  Tbv  armor-clad  Scots  for  a 
Ume  defended  their  fort  bravely,  l^ut  were  at  last  compelled  to  surrender,  and  were 
carried  off  as  prisoners,  including  Lord  Ochiltree,  who  was  plundered  of  all  that  he 
possessed,  and  was  cent  to  France  in  the  hold  of  the  Great  St.  Andrew. 

In  1726  the  Frcncli  frigate  Lr  Chameau,  60,  was  wrecked  on  Porto  Nucto  Island, 
and  all  on  board  were  lost.  Among  thcEc  unfortunate  people  were  M  de  Chazcl, 
Intcndant  cf  Canada;  M  de  Louvigny,  Governor  of  Trois  Rivieres,  numerous  other 
colonial  di^itarics,  and  Feveral  crcle^iastics.  "  This  misfortune  in  the  course  of  a 
single  night  brought  more  grief  and  1o.«r  upon  the  French  colonies  tluiu  they  had 
snared  during  20  years  of  warfare."    (Charlevoix.) 

Eoatari  Island  is  about  5  M.  N.  E.  of  Cape  Breton,  and  lies  on  the  4Cth 
parallel  of  N.  latitude.  It  is  a  rock-bound  island,  8  by  4  M.  in  area,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  of  sea-birds.  On  the  E.  point  is  a  powerful  revolving 
■white  light,  and  on  the  W.  end  is  a  fixed  red  light.  The  Halifax  and  Syd- 
ney steamers  sometimes  nm  inside  of  Scatari,  through  the  Main-a-Dieu 
(orMenadou)  Passage,  near  the  obscure  fishing-hamlet  of  Main-a-Dieu. 
N.  and  W.  of  Scatari  is  the  wide,  deep,  and  unsheltered  Mira  Bay. 

After  crossing  the  broad  mouth  of  Mira  Bay,  the  shallower  bight  of  Cow 
Bay  is  seen  on  the  1.  The  vessel  steams  to  the  N.,  by  the  dark  and  rug- 
ged rock  of  Flint  Island,  and  then  runs  about  N.  W.  by  the  great  coal-dis- 
tricts of  Glace  Bay  and  Lingan  (see  Route  37).  Rounding  the  lighthouse 
on  Low  Point  (or  Flat  Point),  she  ascends  Sydney  Harbor,  passing  the 
mines  and  villages  of  the  Victoria  Company  on  the  1.,  and  the  great  shafts 
and  works,  hamlets  and  churches,  of  the  General  Mining  Association  on 
the  r.  After  running  by  the  lighthouse  on  the  S.  E.  Bar,  the  opening  of 
the  W.  Arm  is  seen,  and  the  steamer  soon  reaches  her  wharf  at  Sydney. 

Sydneyi  formerly  the  capital  of  the  Island-Province  of  Cape  Breton, 
occupies  a  favorable  position  on  one  of  the  finest  harbors  on  the  Atlantic 
coast,  and  is  the  chief  town  of  the  island.  It  has  about  3,600  inhabitants, 
with  6  churches,  2  newspapers,  a  masonic  hall,  and  the  Court-House  of 
Cape  Breton  County.  The  principal  article  of  trade  is  coal,  of  which  vast 
quantities  are  brought  by  railways  to  this  harbor,  whence  they  are  sent 
away  on  vessels.  Cattle  and  provisions  are  also  exported  from  this  point 
to  St.  Pierre  and  Newfoundland.  Near  the  water's  edge  is  a  white  build- 
ing, eun'ounded  by  balconies  and  adjoined  by  a  broad  pier  and  a  flag-staff. 
This  little  estate  is  the  headquarters  of  the  French  fleet  in  the  North  At- 
lantic, and  is  kept  with  true  man-of-war's-man's  neatness.  There  is 
usually  a  frigate  of  this  fleet  lying  off  the  village,  and  their  bands  fre- 
quently play  in  the  town.  There  is  a  pleasant  view  over  the  harbor  from 
the  old  fort  on  Barrack  Point. 

It  is  usually  said  of  a  fair  harbor  anywhere  in  the  Australian  or  Ameri- 
can colonies,  that  it  "  is  capable  of  containing  the  whole  British  navy." 
This  remark  has  been  made  concerning  Sydney  Harbor  by  the  best 
authority,  Gapt.  Bayfield,  R.  N.,  the  marine  surveyor  who  made  the 


NORTH  SYDNEY. 


JtauUSe.      151 


Admiralty  charts  for  the  British  North-American  coast.  The  deep  water 
continues  above  the  wharves,  and  as  fa;  up  as  Sydney  Bridge.  Over  500 
vessels  called  at  this  port  in  the  summer  of  1874,  most  of  which  were  here 
freighted  with  coal.  The  harbor  is  usually  ice-bound  during  the  winter, 
from  Jan.  1  to  April  1,  and  on  this  account  is  less  valuable  than  others 
more  t5  the  S. 

The  town  of  Sydney  is  not  attractive  in  its  external  aspects,  though  it  is  said  that 
itfl  society  i**  of  a  high  order  of  culture  and  exclu;  ive  dignity.  It  poseesfies  many  of 
the  social  attributes  of  an  old  colonial  capital,  though  there  are  now  no  vestiges  of  its 
former  position  save  the  deserted  barracks  and  decaying  batteries.  The  stranger  in 
Sydney  will  be  able  to  see  all  that  he  cares  to  of  the  town  in  less  than  an  hour,  for 
it  is  devoid  of  interest,  notwithstanding  the  prominent  position  which  it  holds  in 
the  world's  marine  intelligence  and  shipping  news.  Svdney  is  750  M.  ttom.  New 
York,  600  M.  from  Boston,  240  M.  from  Halifax,  400  M.  from  St.  John's  (N.  F.), 
and  720  M.  from  Quebec. 

Railroad-tmins  run  from  Syduey  to  Lo  isbourg  (see  page  164) ;  stages,  to  Ungan, 
Little  Glace  Bav,  and  Cow  Bay  ;  ferry-boats  to  N.  Sydney  ;  steamboats  to  Baddeck, 
the  Bras  d'Or,  and  the  Strait  of  Cunso  ;  and  steamships  to  St.  John's  (Newfound- 
land'), Halifax,  etc. 

There  are  several  small  hotel*  and  boarding-houses  at  Sydney  and  N.  Sydney,  but 
the  large  and  comfortable  hotel  which  the  custom  of  the  locality  seems  to  warrant 
has  not  yet  been  built.  The  steamship  officers  can  recommend  the  best  stopping* 
places. 

North  Sydney  is  6  -  8  M.  N.  W.  of  Sydney,  with  which  it  is  connected 
by  the  steam  ferry-boat  Lady  of  the  Lake,  making  three  trips  daily.  It 
is  a  busy  and  dingy  little  place,  and  has  several  tanneries,  a  shoe-factory, 
and  the  shipping-depots  of  the  Sydney  coal-mines.  There  are  several 
taverns,  of  the  most  inferior  order.  The  marine-railway  at  this  point  was 
for  many  months  occupied  by  the  hulks  and  wrecked  vessels  which 
were  left  along  the  coast  after  the  Lord's-Day  Gale.  About  4  M.  N.  W.  is 
the  French  Village  on  the  Little  Bras  d'Or;  and  a  road  runs  30  M.  S.  W. 
over  the  uninhabited  highlands  of  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrews,  to  the 
Grand  Narrows,  on  the  Bras  d'Or  Lake. 

The  harbor  of  Sydney  was  visited  in  1587  by  the  English  ship  Hopewell,  which 
drove  out  a  Biscayan  vessel  and  plundered  all  the  fish-stages  along  the  shore.  Many 
savages  here  visited  the  ship,  "  among  whom  was  their  king,  whose  name  was  Itary, 
and  their  queene,  to  whom  also  we  gaue  coats  and  kniues  and  other  trifles.  These 
Sauages  called  the  harborow  Gibo.  In  this  place  are  the  greatest  multitude  of 
lobsters  that  euer  we  heard  of ;  for  we  caught  at  one  hawle  with  a  little  draw 
net  abouel40."  This  harbor  soon  received  the  name  of  Bale  des  Espagnols,  be- 
cause during  the  troublous  times  of  the  16th  century,  it  was  the  favorite  resort  of 
the  Spanish  fishermen,  as  Louisbourg  was  of  the  English,  and  St.  Anne's  of  the 
French. 

In  1696  the  French  frigates  VEnvieux  and  Prof  and,  commanded  by  the  valiant 
Iberville,  entered  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  and  summoned  to  its  shores  the  Indian 
warriors  of  Gape  Breton.  A  chosen  force  of  Micmacs  were  soon  embarked,  and  then 
they  sailed  away  to  the  destruction  of  Pemaquid.  This  was  also  the  station  of  the 
powerful  French  squadron  under  the  Chevalier  du  Palais.  After  Admiral  Walker's 
terribly  disastrous  voyage  in  the  Gulf  (in  1711),  the  remainder  of  his  fleet  was 
gathered  together  here,  and  it  is  said  that  the  42  war- vessels  then  assembled  formed 
the  most  powerful  naval  armament  ever  seen  in  these  waters.  They  lay  in  the 
roadstead,  abreast  of  Lloyd's  Cove,  and  the  Admiral  had  the  following  pompous  in- 
scription erected  on  the  shore :  — 

*'  Jn  nomine  FcUris,  Filii,  et  SpiritHs  Saneti,  Amen.  Omnibus  in  Chritti  Fideli- 
bus  Salutem.    Anna,  Dei  GratieB,  Magn.  Britannia,  Franda,  et  HibemuB^  Rtgina; 


IT 


f: 


(i 


J 


I  I 


152     RmUeSr,    THE  SYDNEY  COAL-PIELDa 

Tatiiuqut  AmtrietB  Septentrionalis  Domina,  Fidei  Defensor^  etc.  In  Cujus  hamm 
inmiarum  vulgo  Cape  Breton,  Proprietatis  et  Dominii  Testimonium^  Hoc  Erexit 
Monumentum,  Sua  Majeftatia  Servus,  et  Subditu^  Jidelissimus,  D.  Hovenden 
lyeUker,  Eques  AurcUus,  Omnium  in  America  Narium  Regaliuvi,  Ptafectus  et 
Thalassiarcha,    Monte  Septtmhris,  Anno  Salutis  MDGCXI." 

The  first  civil  governor  of  Cape  Breton  after  its  neverance  from  Nova  Scotia  (1784) 
mu  Major  Desbarres,  a  veteran  of  the  campaigns  of  the  Mohawk  Valley ,  Lake  George, 
Ticonderoga,  Louisbourg,  and  Quebec.  One  of  his  chief  steps  was  to  select  a  site  for 
the  new  capital  of  the  inland,  and  the  location  chosen  was  the  peninsula  on  the  S. 
arm  of  the  capacious  harbor  called  Spanish  River.  The  seat  of  government  thus 
established  was  named  Sydney,  in  honor  of  Lord  Sydney,  Secretary  of  State  for  the 
Colonies,  who  had  erected  Cape  Breton  into  a  separate  Province.  '  In  the  spring  of 
1785  the  Loyalists  under  Abraham  Cuyler  (ex-Mayor  of  Albany,  N.  Y.)  came  from 
Louisbourg  to  Sydney,  cut  down  the  forests,  and  erected  buildinfrs. 

In  1781  a  sharp  naval  battle  wa«  fought  off  Sydney  Harbor,  ctween  the  French 
frigates  VAstiee  and  VHenrnone  (of  44  guns  each)  and  a  British  squadron  consist- 
ing of  the  Charlestown,  28,  Allegiance,  16,  Vulture,  16,  Little  Jack,  6,  and  the  armed 
transport  Vernon.  16  coal-ships  which  were  under  convoy  of  the  British  fleet  fled 
into  Sydney  harbor,  while  the  frigates  rapidly  overhauled  the  escort  and  brought  on 
a  general  engagement.  After  a  long  and  stubborn  action,  the  Little  Jarit  surren- 
dered, and  the  remainder  of  the  fleet  would  have  shared  the  same  fate,  had  it  not 
been  for  the  approach  of  night,  under  whose  shelter  the  shattered  British  vessels 
bore  away  to  the  eastward  and  escaped.  They  had  lost  18  men  killed  and  28 
wounded.  The  senior  captain  of  the  victorious  French  vessels  was  La  Perouse,  who 
started  in  1788,  with  two  frigates,  on  a  voyage  of  discovery  around  the  world,  but 
was  lost,  with  all  his  equipage,  on  the  Isle  of  Yanikoro. 


37.  The  East  Coast  of  Cape  Breton.— The  Sydney  Coal- 

Fields. 

The  Sydney  Mines  are  on  the  N.  side  of  Sydney  Harbor,  and  are  con- 
nected with  N.  Sydney  by  a  coal-railway  and  also  by  a  daily  stage  (fare, 
75c.).  They  are  on  the  level  land  included  between  the  Little  Bras  d'Or 
and  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  and  are  worked  by  the  General  Mining  Asso- 
ciation of  London.  Nearly  500  men  are  employed  in  the  pits,  and  the  vil- 
lage has  a  population  of  2,500. 

The  International  Mines  are  at  Bridgeport,  13  M.  N.  E.  of  Sydney,  and 
are  connected  with  that  harbor  by  a  railway  that  cost  $  600,000.  The  sea- 
shore is  here  lined  with  rich  coal-deposits,  extending  from  Lingan  Harbor 
to  Sydney.  It  is  probable  that  the  submarine  mining,  which  has  already 
been  commenced,  will  follow  the  carboniferous  strata  far  beneath  the  sea. 

The  Victoria  Mines  are  W.  of  this  district,  and  near  Low  Point,  9  M. 
from  Sydney.  The  company  has  a  railway  which  extends  to  their  freight- 
ing station  on  Sydney  Harbor,  and  is  at  present  doing  a  prosperous  busi- 
ness. 

The  Lingan  Mines  are  near  Bridgeport,  and  are  reached  by  a  tri-weekly 
stage  from  Sydney  (15  M. ;  fare,  $1.50).  Lingan  is  derived  from  the 
French  word  L*Indienne,  applying  to  the  same  place.  It  was  occupied 
and  fortified  by  the  British  early  in  the  18th  century,  and  a  garrison  of 
60  men  was  stationed  here  to  guard  the  coal-mines.  At  a  later  day  the 
French  army  at  Louisbourg  was  supplied  with  large  quantities  of  coal 
from  this  point,  and  several  cargoes  were  sent  away.   During  the  summer 


THE  SYDNEY  COAL-PIELDa     RmtUST,      153 


of  1752  the  mine  was  set  on  fire,  and  the  fort  and  buildings  were  all 
destroyed. 

The  Little  Glace  Bay  Mines  are  18  M.  from  Sydney,  and  are  reached 
by  atri-weekly  stage  (fare,  $1).  They  are  situated  on  Glace  Bay  and 
Glace  Cove,  and  about  Table  Head,  and  are  carried  on  by  a  Halifax  com- 
pany, which  employs  800  miners.  The  deposits  are  very  rich  along  this 
shore,  and  extend  far  out  beneath  the  sea. 

The  Gowrie  and  Block-Home  Mines  are  on  Cow  Bay,  and  are  among  the 
most  extensive  on  this  coast.  They  are  22  M.  from  Sydney,  and  are 
reached  by  a  tri-weekly  stage.  They  employ  over  600  men,  and  have 
formed  a  town  of  2,000  inhabitants.  Large  fleets  gather  in  the  bay  for 
the  transportation  of  the  coal  to  the  S.,  and  while  lying  here  are  in  con- 
siderable peril  during  the  prevalence  of  easterly  gales,  which  have  a  full 
sweep  into  the  roadstead.  Nearly  70  vessels  were  wrecked  here  during 
the  Lord's-Day  Gale,  and  the  shores  were  strewn  with  broken  hulks  and 
many  yet  sadder  relics  of  disaster.  The  S.  portal  of  the  bay  is  Cape 
Morien,  and  on  the  N.  is  Cape  Perry,  off  which  is  the  sea-surrounded  Flint 
Island,  bearing  a  revolving  white  light. 

The  coal-beds  of  Cape  Bret  in  were  first  described  by  Denys,  in  1672,  and  firom 
1677  to  1690  he  had  a  royalty  of  20  sous  per  ton  on  a'l  the  coal  that  was  exporttjd. 
Some  of  it  was  taken  to  France,  and  great  quantities  were  sent  into  New  England. 
In  1720  a  mine  was  opened  at  Cow  Bay,  whence  the  French  army  at  Louisbourg 
was  supplied,  and  numerous  cargoes  were  shipped  to  Boston.  Between  1745  and 
1749  the  British  garrison  at  Louisbourg  was  abundantly  supplied  with  fuel  from 
mines  at  Burnt  Head  and  Little  Bras  d'Or,  which  were  protected  against  the  Indbtns 
by  fortified  outposts.  The  Abb4  Raynal  says  that  there  was  "  a  prodigious  demand 
for  Cape-Breton  coal  from  New  England  from  the  year  1745  to  1749."  But  this  trade 
wail  soon  stopped  by  the  British  government,  and  only  enough  mining  was  done  to 
supply  the  troops  at  Louisbourg  and  Halifax.  The  "  coal-smugglers  "  still  carried 
on  a  lucrative  business,  slipping  quietly  into  the  harbors  and  mining  from  the  great 
seams  in  the  face  of  the  cliffs.  In  1785  the  Sydney  vein  was  opened  by  Gov.  Des- 
barres,  but  its  profitable  working  was  prevented  by  heavy  royalties.  The  Imperial 
Government  then  assumed  the  control,  and  its  vessels  captured  many  of  the  light 
craft  of  the  smugglers.  In  1828  the  General  Mining  Association  was  formed  in  Lon> 
don,  and  secured  the  privilege  of  the  mines  and  minerals  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape 
Breton  from  the  Duke  of  York,  to  whom  they  had  been  granted  by  King  George  IV. 
Under  the  energetic  management  of  the  Association  the  business  incrc^ased  rapidly, 
and  became  profitable.  Between  1827  and  1857  (inclusive),  1,931,634  tons  of  coal 
were  mined  in  Cape  Breton,  of  which  605,008  tons  were  sent  to  the  United  States. 
Between  1857  and  1870  there  were  sold  at  the  mines  3,323,981  tons.  By  far  the 
greater  part  of  these  products  came  from  the  Sydney  field,  bat  of  late  years  consid- 
erable exportations  are  being  made  from  the  mines  at  Glace  Bay,  Cow  Bay  (Block- 
House),  Gowrie,  and  Lingan.  The  Caledonia,  Glace  Bay,  and  Block-House  coals  are 
used  for  making  gas  at  Boston  and  Cambridge,  and  the  gas  of  New  York  ia  made 
from  International,  Glace  Bay,  Caledonia,  and  Block-House  coals. 


"  In  travelling  from  Ilawkesbury  to  Port  Hood,  and  Baddeck  and  back  again,  by 
the  Bras  d'Or  LukeH,  one  traverser  a  country  in  some  places  thickly  settled,  but  all 
apparently  well  settled  by  a  race  of  men  physically  the  superior  of  any  other  on  the 
face  of  this  continent.  They  are  chiefly  of  Highland  Scotch  descent,  with  a  sprink- 
ling of  French  Canadians,  and  as  a  matter  of  course  nearly  all  Roman  Catholics  in 
their  religious  belief.  .  .  .  The  Cape  Bretoners  seem  to  be  very  prolific  in  the  propaga- 
tion of  their  species.  No  immigration  is  wanted  here ;  only  give  them  time,  and 
they  will  compass  the  same  ends  themselves.  Nothing  under  ten  children  is  consid- 
ered a  large  fiunily,  and  those  who  fiUl  short  of  this  generally  cousider  it  necessary 
to  explain  the  unusual  oiroumstance." 


ntf 


154     Route  S8, 


LOUISBOURG. 


' 


>l  : 


1       I 


38.   The  Fortress  of  Loaisboiirg^. 

Louisbourg  is  reached  by  railway  (running  occasional  paseenger-cars) 
from  Sydney,  in  24  M.  A  road  runs  hence  15  - 18  M.  N.  E.  along  an  in- 
teresting coast,  to  Cope  Breton  (see  page  149),  passing  the  hamlets  of  Big 
and  Little  Loran,  "named  in  honor  of  the  haughty  house  of  Lorraine." 
Cape  Breton  itself  is  nearly  insulated  by  the  deep  haven  of  Baleine  Cove, 
and  Just  off  its  S.  point  is  the  rock  of  Porto  Nuevo,  rising  boldly  from 
the  sea.  Beyond  the  cape  and  the  hamlet  of  Main-a-Dieu  the  Mira  Bay 
road  passes  the  hamlet  of  Catalogne  (18  M.  from  Sydney),  at  the  outlet  of 
the  broad  lagoon  of  the  Catalogne  Lake,  and  follows  the  Mira  River  from 
the  village  of  Mira  Gut  to  the  drawbridge  on  the  Louisbourg  road,  where 
the  farming  hamlet  of  Albert  Bridge  has  been  established  (12  M.  from 
Sydney).  A  road  runs  hence  S.  W.  12  - 14  M.  to  Marion  Bridge,  a  Scot- 
tish settlement  near  the  long  and  narrow  Mira  Lake.  The  road  ascends 
thence  along  ti  e  valley  of  the  Salmon  River  to  the  vicinity  of  Loch  Uist 
and  Loch  Lomond  (see  page  147). 

Gabarus  Bay  is  8-10  M.  S.  W.  of  Louisbourg,  and  is  a  deep  and  spa- 
cious but  poorly  sheltered  roadstead.  It  has  a  large  and  straggling  fishing- 
settlement,  near  the  Gabarus,  Belfiy,  and  Mira  Lakes. 

Louisbourg  at  present  consists  of  a  small  hamlet  occupied  by  fisher- 
men, whose  vessels  sail  hence  to  the  stormy  Grand  Banks.  The  adjacent 
country  is  hilly  and  unproductive,  and  contains  no  settlements.  The  har- 
bor is  entered  through  a  passage  10  fathoms  deep,  with  a  powerful  white 
light  on  the  N.  E.  headland,  and  is  a  capacious  basin  with  5-7  fathoms 
of  water,  well  sheltered  from  any  wind.  On  Point  Rochfort,  at  the  S.  W. 
side  of  the  harbor,  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  French  fortress  and  city. 

"  The  ruins  of  the  once  formidable  batteries,  iiritb  wide  broken  gaps  (blown  up 
by  gunpowder),  present  a  melancholy  picture  of  past  energy.  The  strong  and  capa- 
cious magazine,  once  the  iieposit  of  immense  quantities  of  munitions  of  war,  is  still 
nearly  entire,  but,  hidden  by  the  accumulation  of  earth  and  turf,  now  affords  a  com- 
modious shelter  for  flocks  of  peaceful  sheep,  which  feed  around  the  burial-ground 
where  the  remains  of  many  a  gallant  Frenchman  and  patriotic  Br' ton  are  depopitecl  j 
while  beneath  the  clear  cold  wave  may  be  seen  the  vast  sunken  ships  of  war,  whose 
very  bulk  indicates  the  power  enjoyed  by  the  Gallic  nation  ere  England  became 
mistress  of  her  colonies  on  the  shores  of  the  Western  Atlantic.  Desolation  now  sits 
with  a  ghastly  smile  around  the  once  formidable  bastions.  All  is  silent  except  the 
loud  reverberating  ocean,  as  it  rolls  its  tremendous  surges  along  the  rocky  beach,  or 
the  bleating  of  the  scattered  sheep,  as  with  tinkling  bells  they  return  in  the  dusky 
solitude  of  eve  to  their  singular  folds."  (Montgomery  Martin.) 

"  If  you  ever  visit  Louisbourg,  you  will  observe  a  patch  of  dark  greensward  on 
Point  Rochfort,  —  the  site  of  the  old  burying-ground.  Beneath  it  lie  the  ashes  of 
hundreds  of  brave  New-Knglanders.  No  monument  marks  the  sacred  spot,  but  the 
waves  of  the  restless  ocean,  in  calm  or  storm ,  sing  an  everlasting  requiem  over  the 
graves  of  the  departed  heroes."  (R.  Brown.) 

The  port  of  Louisbourg  was  called  from  the  earliest  times  Havre  d  VAnglois,  but 
no  important  settlements  were  made  here  until  after  the  surrender  of  Newfoundland 
And  Acadia  to  Great  Britain,  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht.  Then  the  French  troops  and 
inhabitants  evacuated  Placentia  (N.  F.)  and  came  to  this  place.  In  1714  M.  de  St. 
Ovide  de  Brouillan  was  made  Oovemor  of  Louisbourg ;  and  the  work  of  building  the 
fortress  was  begun  about  1720. 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOURG.    Route  S8.      156 


The  powerfiil  defences  of"  the  Dunkirk  of  America ''  were  hurried  to  completion, 
and  the  people  of  New  England  "  looked  with  awe  upon  the  sombre  walls  of  liouis- 
bourg.  whose  towers  rose  like  giants  above  the  northern  seas.''  Over  80,000,000 
livres  were  drawn  from  the  French  royal  treasury,  and  were  expended  on  the  forti- 
fications of  Louisbourg ;  and  numerous  cargoes  or  building-stone  were  sent  hither 
from  France  (as  if  Ciipe  Breton  had  not  enough,  and  little  else).  Fleets  of  New« 
England  vessels  bore  lumber  and  bricks  to  the  new  fortress ;  and  the  Acadians  sent 
in  pupplies  and  cattle.  For  more  than  W  years  the  French  government  devoted 
ail  its  energy  and  resources  to  one  object,  —  the  completion  of  these  fortifications. 
Inhabitants  were  drawn  to  the  place  by  bounties  ;  and  Louisbourg  soon  had  a  large 
trade  with  France,  New  England,  and  the  West  Indies. 

The  harbor  was  guarded  by  a  battery  of  30  28-pounder8,  on  Goat  Island ;  and  by 
the  Grand  (or  Royal^  Battery,  which  carried  30  heavy  guns  and  raked  the  entrance. 
On  the  landward  side  was  a  deep  moat  and  projecting  bastions ;  and  the  great 
eareening-dock  wan  opposite.  The  land  and  harbor  sides  of  the  town  were  defended 
by  lines  of  rampart^  and  bastions,  on  which  80  guns  were  mounted;  and  the  West 
Gate  was  overlooked  by  a  battery  of  16  24-pounders.  The  Citadel  was  in  the  gorge 
of  the  King's  Bastion.  In  the  centre  of  the  city  were  the  stately  stone  church, 
nunnery,  and  ho.<«pital  of  St.  Jean  de  Dieu.  The  streets  cro8.sed  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  communicated  with  the  wharves  by  five  gates  in  the  harbor- 
ward  wall.  The  fortress  was  in  the  first  system  of  Yauban,  and  required  a  large 
garrison. 

Early  in  1745  the  Massachusetts  Legislature  determined  to  attack  Louisbourg  with 
all  the  forces  of  the  Province  ;  and  Gov.  Shirley,  the  originator  of  the  enterprise, 
gave  the  military  command  to  Col  Wm.  Popperell.  Massachusetts  furnished  3,260 
men ;  New  H  impshire,  300  ;  and  Connecticut,  500  ;  and  George  Whitefield  gave  the 
motto  for  the  army,  "  Nil  de.sperandum,  Christo  rfwre,"  thus  making  the  enterprise 
a  sort  of  Puritan  crusade.  The  forces  were  joined  at  Canso  by  Commodore  Warren's 
West-India  fleet,  and  a  landing  was  soon  effected  in  Gabarus  Bay.  The  garrison  con- 
sisted of  750  French  veterans  and  1,500  militia,  and  the  assailants  were  "4,000  un- 
di><ciplincd  militia  or  volunteers,  officered  by  men  who  had,  with  one  or  two  excep- 
tions, never  seen  a  shot  fired  in  anger  all  their  lives,  encamped  in  an  open  country, 
....  and  sadly  deficient  in  suitable  artillery."  The  storehouses  up  the  harbor 
were  set  on  fire  by  Vaughan's  New-Hampshire  men  ;  and  the  black  smoke  drove  down 
on  the  Grand  Battery,  so  greatly  alarming  its  garrison  that  tbey  spiked  their  guns 
and  fled.  The  fort  was  occupied  by  the  Americans  and  soon  opened  on  tiie  city. 
Fascine  batteries  were  erected  at  1,550  and  950  yards  from  the  West  Gate,  and  a 
breaching  battery  was  reared  at  night  within  250  yards  of  the  walls.  Amid  the  roar 
of  a  continual  bombardment,  the  garrison  made  sorties  by  sea  and  land;  and  1,500 
of  the  Americans  were  sick  or  wounded,  600  were  kept  out  in  the  country  watching 
the  hostile  Indians,  and  200  had  been  lost  in  a  disastrous  attempt  at  storming  the 
Island  Battery.  Early  in  June,  the  guns  of  the  Circular  Battery  were  all  dis- 
mounted, the  King's  Bastion  had  a  breach  24  feet  deep,  the  town  had  been  ruined 
by  a  rain  of  bombs  and  red-hot  balls,  and  the  Island  Battery  had  been  rendered  un- 
tenable by  the  American  cannonade.  On  the  15th  the  fleet  (consisting  of  the  Superb, 
Sunderlanii,  Canterbury,  and  Princess  Mary,  60  guns  each ;  and  the  Laiineeston, 
Chester,  Lark,  Mermaid,  Hector,  and  Eltham,  of  40  guns  each)  was  drawn  up  off 
the  harbor ;  and  the  army  was  arrayed  "  to  march  with  drums  beating  and  colours 
flying  to  the  assault  of  the  West  Gate"  But  Gov.  Duchambon  saw  these  ominous 
preparations  and  surrendered  the  works,  to  avoid  unnecessary  carnage.  "  As  the 
troops,  entering  the  fortress,  beheld  the  strength  of  the  place,  their  hearts  for  the 
first  time  sank  within  them.  '  God  has  gone  out  of  his  way,'  said  they,  'in  a  re- 
markable and  moi^t  jniraculous  manner,  to  incline  the  hearts  of  the  French  to  give 
up  and  deliver  this  strong  city  into  our  hand.'  "  Pepperell  attributed  his  success, 
not  to  his  artillery  or  the  fleet  of  line-of-battle  ships,  but  to  the  prayers  of  New  Eng- 
landj  daily  arising  from  every  village  in  behalf  of  the  absent  army.  '•  The  news  of 
this  important  victory  filled  New  England  with  joy  and  Europe  with  astonishment." 
Boston  and  London  and  the  chief  towns  of  America  and  England  were  illuminated ; 
the  batteries  of  Liondon  Tower  fired  salutes;  and  King  George  II.  made  Pepperell  a 
baronet,  and  Warren  a  rear-admiral.     (For  the  naval  exploits,  see  page  149.) 

4,130  French  people  were  sent  home  on  a  fleet  of  transports ;  the  siege-batteries 
were  levelled,  and  ^6  guns  were  mounted  on  the  repaired  walls ;  and  in  the  follow- 
ing April  the  New-England  troops  were  relieved  by  two  regiments  from  Qibraltar, 
and  went  home,  having  lost  nearly  1,000  men.    The  historian  SmoUet  designated 


156      RouUSS.    THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOURQ. 


1 1 


the  capture  of  Loulsbourv,  "  the  moat  important  achierement  of  the  war  of  1745  " ; 
and  the  authors  of  the  "  Universal  History  >'  considered  it  "  an  equiTalent  for  all 
the  successes  of  the  French  upon  the  Continent/'  The  siege  is  minutely  defcribed 
(with  maps)  in  Brown's  "  History  of  the  Island  of  Cape  Breton,"  pages  168-248. 

^'  That  a  colony  iilce  Massachusetts,  at  that  time  far  from  being  rich  or  populous, 
should  display  such  remarkable  military  spirit  and  enterprise,  aided  only  by  the 
smailei  i*rovince  of  New  Hampshire ;  that  they  should  equip  both  land  and  Fca  forces 
to  attack  a  redoubtable  fortrei^s  called  by  British  officers  impregnable,  and  on  which 
the  French  Crown  had  expended  immense  sums ;  ....  that  4,000  rustic  militia, 
whose  officers  were  as  inexperienced  in  war  as  their  men,  although  supported  by 
naval  forces,  should  conquer  the  regular  troops  of  the  greatest  military  power  of  the 
age,  and  wrest  from  their  hands  a  place  of  unusual  strength,  all  appear  little  short 
of  miracle."    (Beamish  Murdoch.) 

So  keenly  did  the  French  government  feel  the  loss  of  Louisbourg  that  the  great 
French  Armada  was  sent  out  in  1746  to  retake  it  and  to  destroy  Boston.  After  the 
disastrous  failui-e  of  this  expedition  (see  page  99),  La  Jonquiere  was  despatched  with 
16  men-of-war  and  28  other  vessels,  on  the  same  errand,  but  was  attacked  by  the  fleets 
of  Anson  and  Warren  off  Cape  Finisterre,  and  lost  9  ships  of  war,  4,000  men,  and 
9  8,000,000  worth  of  the  convoyed  cargoes.  In  1749  the  war  was  ended,  Louisbourg 
and  Cape  Breton  were  restored  to  France,  and  ''  after  four  years  of  warfore  in  all 
parts  of  the  world,  after  all  the  waste  of  blood  and  treasure,  the  war  ended  just 
where  it  Ix.'gan." 

When  war  broke  out  again  between  England  and  France,  in  1755,  Louisbourg  was 
blockaded  by  the  fleet  of  Admiral  Boscawen.  England  soon  sent  11  line-of-battle 
ships,  a  squadron  of  frigates,  and  50  transports,  bearing  6,000  soldiers,  to  reduce  the 
fortress ;  but  France  was  too  prompt  to  be  surprised,  and  held  it  with  17  sail  of  the 
line  and  lOfiOO  men.  The  vast  Englifih  fleet  got  within  2  M.  of  Louisbourg  and 
then  recoiled,  sailed  to  Halifax,  and  soon  broke  up,  sending  the  army  to  New  York 
and  the  ships  to  England.  France  then  equipped  fleets  at  Toulon  and  Rochfort,  to 
reinforce  Louisbourg;  but  the  Foudroyant,  84,  the  Orphew,  64,  and  other  vessels 
were  captured.  Six  men-of-war  and  sixteen  transports  reached  Louisbourg,  with  a 
gret  t  amount  of  military  supplies. 

Gi-eat  Britain  now  fitted  out  an  immense  fleet  at  Spithead,  consisting  of  the 
Namur,  90  guns ;  Royal  William,  SO ;  Princess  Amelia,  80 ;  Terrible,  74 ;  the  North- 
umberland, Oxford,  Burford,  Vanguard,  Somerset,  and  Lancaster,  70  guns  each ; 
the  Devonshire,  Bedford,  Captain,  and  Prince  Frederick,  64  each ;  the  Pembroke^ 
Kingston,  York,  Prince  of  Orange,  Defiance,  and  Nottingham,  QO  guns  each;  the 
Centurion  and  Sutherland,  60  each;  the  frigates  Juno,  Grammont,  Nightingale^ 
Hunter,  Boreas,  Hind,  IVent,  Port  Mahon,  Diana,  Shannon,  Kennington,  Scar- 
borough,  Squirrel,  Hawk,  Beaver,  Tyloe,  and  Halifax;  and  the  fire-ships  Etna  and 
Lightning.  There  were  also  118  transports,  carrying  13,600  men,  in  17  regiments. 
Boscawen  commanded  the  fleet,  Amherst  the  army,  and  Wolfe  was  one  of  the  briga- 
diers. 

This  powerful  armament  soon  appeared  off  Louisbourg,  and  at  dawn  on  the  8th  of 
June,  1758,  the  British  troops  landed  atGabarus  Bay,  and  pushed  through  the  fatal 
surf  of  Freshwater  Cove,  amid  the  hot  fire  of  the  Fi%nch  shore-batteries.  After  losing 
110  men  they  carried  the  entrenchments  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet,  and  the  French 
fell  back  on  Louit^bourg.  The  fortress  had  been  greatly  strengthened  since  the  siege 
of  1745,  and  was  defended  by  3,400  men  of  the  Artillery  and  the  regiments  of  Volon- 
taires  Strangers,  Artois,  Bourgogne,  and  Cambist,  besides  large  bodies  of  militia  and 
Indians.  In  the  harbor  were  the  ships-of-war,  Prudent,  74 ;  Entreprenant ,  74  ; 
Capricieux,  64;  C4lebre,M',  Bienfaisant,Gi',  Apollon,oOf  Dtane,  36;  Ar4thu.se, 
86 ;  Fidile,  36  ;  Echo,  32  ;  Biche,  l6 ;  ond  Chivre,  16. 

Wolfe's  brigade  then  occupied  the  old  Lighthouse  Battery,  and  opened  fire  on  the 
city,  the  French  fleet,  and  the  Island  Battery.  The  latter  was  soon  completely  de- 
stroyed by  Wolfe's  tremendous  cannonade ;  and  since  the  harbor  was  thus  left 
unguarded.  Gov.  Drucour  sank  the  frigates  Diane,  Apollon,  Biche,  Fiddle,  and 
Chivre  at  its  entrance.  Meantime  the  main  army  was  erecting  works  on  Green  HiU 
and  opposite  the  Queen's  and  Princess's  Bastions,  under  the  fire  of  the  French 
ramparts  and  ships,  and  annoyed  on  the  rear  by  the  Indiana.  During  a  bloody 
sortie  by  the  French,  the  Earl  of  Dundonald  and  many  of  the  Grenadiers  were 
killed.  The  heavy  siege-batteries  were  advanced  rapidly,  and  poured  in  a  crushing 
fire  on  the  doomed  city,  destroying  the  Citadel,  the  West  Gate,  and  the  barracks. 
Tlw  magMJne  of  the  Entreprenant^  74,  blew  up,  and  the  Capridtuz  and  Cilibre, 


3URG. 


THE  FORTRESS  OF  LOUISBOURG.    JtouU  38,      167 


i  of  the  war  of  1745  " ; 
'  an  equiTalent  for  all 
is  minutely  deccribed 
a,"  pages  168-248. 
eing  rich  or  populous, 
fe,  aided  only  by  the 
oth  iand  and  f  ca  forces 
egnaMe,  and  on  which 
t  4,000  rustic  militia, 
Ithough  supported  by 
t  military  power  of  the 
all  appear  little  short 

sbourg  that  the  great 
t)y  Boston.  After  the 
e  was  despatched  with 
i  attacked  by  the  fletta 
■  war,  4,000  men,  and 
ras  ended,  Louisbourg 
ears  of  warfare  in  all 
»,  the  war  ended  just 

1756,  Louisbourg  waa 
sent  11  line-of-battle 
soldiers,  to  reduce  the 
I  it  with  17  sail  of  the 
I.  of  Louisbourg  and 
le  army  to  New  York 
lion  and  Rochfort,  to 
64,  and  other  vessels 
1  Louisbourg,  with  a 

id,  consisting  of  the 
rrible,  74 ;  the  North- 
i-^ter,  70  guns  each; 
ach;  the  Pembroke, 
,  60  guns  each ;  the 
vmont,  Nightingale, 
Kennington,  Scar- 
fire-ships  Etna  and 
len,  in  17  regiments, 
ras  one  of  the  briga- 

dawn  on  the  8th  of 
ed  through  the  fatal 
ttteries.  After  losing 
met,  and  the  French 
loned  since  the  siege 
regiments  of  Volon- 
bodies  of  militia  and 

Entreprenant,  74  ; 
►/ane,36;  Arithuse, 

d  opened  fire  on  the 

soon  completely  de- 

irbor  was  thus  left 

Biche,  Fidiile,  and 

orks  on  Qreen  Hill 

fire  of  the  French 

During  a  bloody 

le '  Grenadiers  were 

iired  in  a  crushing 

and  the  barracks. 

deux  and  Cilibre, 


catching  the  lire  in  their  sails,  were  burned  at  their  moorings.  The  AritkuM  and 
Echo  ran  out  of  the  harbor  In  foggy  weather,  but  the  latter  was  captured.  Only 
two  French  rri;{ate3  remained,  and  these  were  both  captured  by  boats  from  the  fleet, 
after  a  dariu^  attack.  On  the  26th  of  July  the  Chevalier  de  Drucour  surrendered 
the  city,  with  5,637  men,  _3i)  pieces  of  artillery,  and  immense  amounts  of  stores  and 
supplies.  The  French  had  lost  about  1,000  men,  the  British  nearly  600,  during  the 
siege 

All  England  rang  with  the  tidings  of  the  fall  of  "  the  Dunkirk  of  America,"  special 
prayers  and  thanksgivinKS  were  read  in  all  the  churches  of  the  kingdom  ;  and  11 
Bets  of  colors  from  Louisbourg  were  presented  to  the  King  at  Kensington  Palace, 
whence  they  were  borne  with  great  pomp  to  St.  Paul's  Cathedral.  Marine  insurance 
on  Anglo-American  vessels  full  at  once  from  30  to  12  p<*r  cent,  because  the  French 
privateers  were  driven  from  the  western  sea.<  by  the  closing  of  their  port  of  refuge. 

In  1759  the  great  fleet  and  army  of  Gen.  Wolfe  gathered  at  Louisbourg  and  sailed 
away  to  the  ('onquest  of  Canada.  Halifax  was  a  fine  naval  station,  and  it  was 
deemed  inexpedient  to  maintain  a  costly  garrison  at  Ix)uisbourg;  so  sappers  and 
miners  were  sent  there  in  the  summer  of  1760, and  '*  in  the  short  space  of  six  months 
all  t!ie  fortifications  and  public  buildings,  which  had  cost  France  25  years  of  labor 
and  a  v:ist  amount  of  money,  were  utterly  demolished,  —  the  walls  and  glacis  lerelled 
into  the  ditch,  —  leaving,  in  fact,  nothing  to  mark  their  former  situation  but  heaps 
of  stones  and  rubbish.  Nothing  waa  left  standing  but  the  private  houses,  which 
had  been  rent  and  shattered  during  the  siege,  the  hospital,  and  a  barrack  capable 

of  lodging  300  men All  the  artillery,  ammunition,  stores,  implements,  —  in 

short,  everything  of  the  slightest  val  le,  even  the  hewn  stones  which  had  decorated 
the  public  buildings,  were  transported  to  Halifax." 

The  British  garrison  was  withdrawn  in  1768,  and  after  the  foundation  of  Sydney 
"  the  most  splendid  town  of  La  Nouvelle  France  "  was  completely  deserted  by  its 
people. 

During  some  years  past  a  scheme  has  been  agitated  whose  fulfilment  would 
restore  Loui:>bourg  to  more  than  Us  former  iinportuace.  It  is  proposed  to  construct 
a  first-class  railway  from  this  point  to  some  station  on  the  Pictou  Branch  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway,  crossing  the  Strait  of  Canso  either  by  a  lofty  suspension- 
bridge  or  a  steam  ferry-boat  on  which  the  trains  would  be  carried.  It  is  thought 
that  the  freight  and  p  issonger  receipts  from  the  coal-mines  and  the  settlements  on 
the  territory  traversed  would  more  than  defray  the  cost  of  construction  and  mainte- 
nance. The  projectors  then  intend  to  make  Louisbourg  a  port  of  call  for  the  ocean- 
steamships,  for  whose  use  this  safe  and  accessible  harbor  is  peculiarly  adapted.  This 
port  is  on  the  60th  parallel  ofVf.  longitude,  and  is  11  degrees  E.  of  Boston  and  14  de- 
grees E.  of  New  York,  or  so  much  farther  advanced  on  the  route  to  Europe.  When 
the  through  railway  is  completed  to  Boston,  Montreal,  and  New  York,  it  is  thought 
that  most  of  the  better  class,  nt  least,  of  transatlantic  travellers  would  prefer  to  save 
time  and  nearly  1,000  M  of  ocean-voyaging,  by  leaving  or  taking  the  steamship 
here.  Extensive  surveys  have  already  been  made  in  this  vicinity,  and  real  estate 
in  Louisbourg  has  rapidly  advanced  in  value. 


"  Baddeck  was  settled  by  Scotch  Royalists,  principally  firom  the  Highlands  and  the 
islands  of  Mull,  Lewis,  and  Skye.  The  people  are  proud  of  their  descent,  and  still 
keep  up  many  of  their  ancient  customs.  Gaelic  is  yet  the  common  language  among 
those  living  In  the  back  country,  and,  while  nearly  everybody  understands  it  to  some 
extent,  there  are  many  who  cannot  speak  English.  Every  Sunday  services  are  held 
in  Gaelic,  which  are  very  interesting,  —  the  singing  especially  is  wild  and  thrill- 
ing. Once  a  year  the  annual  *  Scotch  Gathering '  takes  place  at  Baddeck,  and  the 
various  clans  gather  in  all  their  forces,  and  for  one  day  the  quiet  little  village  is  full 
of  excitement,  'ihe  sounds  of  the  fiddle  and  bagpipe  are  heard  in  every  direction, 
and  on  wooden  platforms  the  lads  and  lasses,  with  solemn  visages,  go  through  their 
flings  in  sets  of  four  or  eight.  .  .  .  The  people  raise  very  little  grain  or  corn,  but 
potatoes  thrive.  Strawberries  ripen  the  latter  part  of  July,  and  last  until  the  mid- 
dle of  August,  when  raspberries  take  their  place.  Some  years  they  have  very  good 
apples  in  the  last  of  September.  The  walks  and  drives  through  the  country  are  very 
interesting,  not  only  from  the  beauty  of  the  scenery,  but  also  for  the  ins^ht  into 
the  quaint,  old-fashioned  homes  of  the  descendants  of  the  Highlanders.  They  show 
true  Scotch  hospitality,  will  not  take  pay  for  food  or  drink,  but  ask  >  ou  in  thehr 
houses,  and  say  '  please  yourself,  mon,'  with  everything  inside,  and  if  you  desire  to 
purchase  anything  will  ask  five  times  its  value."    (Chakdub) 


c 


■»■ 


mmmm 


Kl 


! 


L 


158     JiouU  39. 


ST.  ANNE'S  BAY. 


39.  The  Korth  Shore  of  Gape  Breton. — St  Aime*f  Bay  and 

St.  Panrs  Island. 

Conveyances  may  be  hired  at  Bnddeck  (see  page  162)  by  which  to  visit 
St.  Anne*s.  The  distance  is  about  10  M.  to  the  head  of  the  harbor.  The 
fii-st  part  of  tiie  way  leads  along  the  shores  of  Baddeclc  Bay,  with  the 
promontory  of  Red  Head  over  the  water  to  the  r.  The  road  then  crosses  a 
cold  district  of  denuded  highlands,  and  descends  to  the  •  Vattey  of  St.  Anne. 
As  the  harbor  is  approached,  the  traveller  can  see  the  amphitheatrical 
glens  in  which  the  great  Holy  Fairs  or  annual  religious  communions  of 
the  people  are  held.  These  quaint  Presbyterian  camp-meetings  are  said 
to  be  a  relic  of  the  ancient  churches  in  the  Scottish  Highlands.  The 
shores  of  the  harbor  were  occupied  in  1820  by  immigrants  from  the  High- 
lands, who  are  now  well  located  on  comfortable  farms.  The  road  follows 
the  S.  Arm,  and  to  the  1.  is  seen  the  N.  Arm,  winding  away  among  the 
tall  mountains.  Just  E.  of  the  N.  Arm  is  St.  Anne's  Mt.  which  is  1,070  ft. 
high,  and  puslies  forward  cliffs  960  ft.  high  nearly  to  the  water's  edge. 

"  There  is  no  ride  on  the  continent,  of  the  kind,  so  full  of  picturesque 
beauty  and  constant  surprises  as  this  around  the  indentations  of  St.  Anne's 
harbor.  High  bluffs,  bold  shores,  exquisite  sea-views,  mountainous  ranges, 
delicious  air{"  are  found  here  in  abundance.  About  opposite  the  light- 
house on  the  bar,  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  is  Old  Fort  Pointy  on  which 
the  French  batteries  were  established.  Near  this  point  is  the  hamlet  of 
Englishtown,  chiefly  interesting  as  containing  the  grave  of  the  once  famous 
"  Nova-Scotia  Giant."  The  mountains  back  of  Englishtown  are  over 
1,000  ft.  high,  and  run  N.  E.  to  Cape  Dauphin,  whence  they  repel  the  sea. 
Imray's  Sailing  Directions  states  that  "  on  the  N.  side  the  land  is  very 
high,  and  ships-of-war  may  lie  so  near  the  shore  that  a  water-hose  may 
reach  the  fresh  water."  As  to  the  harbor,  the  ancient  description  of 
Charlevoix  still  holds  good :  — 

*•  Port  Ste.  Anne,  as  already  stated,  has  before  it  a  very  sure  roadstead  between 
the  Cibou  Islands.  The  port  is  almost  completely  closed  by  a  tongue  of  land,  leav- 
ing passage  for  only  a  single  ship.  This  port,  thus  closed,  is  nearly  two  leagues  in 
circuit,  and  is  oval  in  form.  Ships  can  everywhere  approach  the  land,  and  scarcely 
perceive  the  winds,  on  account  of  its  high  banks  and  the  surrounding  mountains. 
....  The  fishing  is  very  abundant ;  great  quantities  of  good  wood  are  found  there, 
such  as  maple,  beech,  wild  cherry,  and  especially  oaks  very  suitable  for  building 
and  masts,  being  28-38  ft.  high  ;  marble  is  common  ;  most  of  the  land  good,  —  in 
Great  and  Little  Labrador,  which  are  only  a  league  and  a  half  off,  the  soli  is  very 
fertile,  and  it  can  contain  a  very  large  number  of  settlers." 

In  St.  Anne's  Bay  the  English  ship  VhancetoeU  was  wrecked  in  1597,  and  while 
she  lay  aground  "  there  came  aboord  many  shallops  with  store  of  French  men,  who 
robbed  and  spoyled  all  they  could  lay  their  hands  on,  pillaging  the  poore  men  euen 
to  their  very  shirts,  and  vsing  them  in  sauage  manner ;  whereas  they  should  rather 
as  Christians  haue  aided  them  in  that  distresse."  In  1629  thi^  harbor  was  occupied 
by  the  Great  St.  Amlretv  and  the  Marguerite,  armed  vessels  of  France,  whose  crews, 
together  with  their  English  prisoners,  constructed  a  fort  to  command  the  entrance. 
It  was  armed  with  8  cannon,  1,800  pounds  of  powder,  pikes,  and  muskets,  and  was 
garrisoned  by  40  men.  The  commander  of  the  fleet  raised  the  arms  of  the  King  an^ 
Of  Cardinal  Richelieu  over  its  walls,  aud  erected  a  chapel,  for  whose  care  he  left  two 


INOONISH. 


RouUS9.      159 


Anne*!  Bay  and 


jMaits.  He  then  named  the  iiarbor  St.  Anne's.  Before  the  eloie  of  that  winter 
more  than  one  third  of  the  troopH  died  of  the  aourry,  and  the  commandant  aieas- 
sinated  bis  lieutenant  on  the  parade-^rround.  In  1684  the  Jesuits  founded  an  In- 
dian mission  here,  but  both  tbi.s  and  the  giurison  were  afterwards  withdrawn.  Some 
yearslater  a  new  buttery  and  settkiiiKnt  were  erected  here  by  NicholaM  Deny8,Sieur 
de  FroiiHac,  who  traded  hcnre  with  tlie  Indians  of  the  N  of  Cape  Breton. 

The  valley  of  the  N.  Arm  of  St.  AnneV  wns  granted,  in  1713,  to  M.  de  RouTille, 
a  captain  in  the  infantry  of  Fraiue,  and  brother  of  that  Hertel  de  Rouvillc  who  led 
the  forces  that  destroyed  iScbenectudy,  Deerfleld,  and  Iltiyerhill.  The  N.  Arm  was 
long  called  RouvilleV't  River.  At  a  later  day  Costabelle,  Ueiiiirourt,  Soubras,  and 
other  French  officers  had  fl.shing-.stations  on  the  bay.  In  1745  a  frtgnto  from  Com. 
Warren's  fleet  (then  blockading  Louisbourg)  entered  the  harbor,  and  destroyed  all 
the  property  on  its  shores.  St.  Anne's  Bay  was  afterwards  called  Port  Dauphin  by 
the  French,  and  the  government  long  hesitated  as  to  whether  the  chief  fortress  of 
Cape  Breton  should  be  located  here  or  at  Louisbourg.  The  perfect  security  of  the 
harbor  afforded  a  strong  argument  in  favor  of  St.  Anne's,  and  it  seemed  capable  of 
being  made  impregnable  at  slight  expense.  After  the  foundation  of  Louisbourg  1,000 
cords  of  wood  were  sent  to  that  place  annually  from  St.  Anne's. 

The  road  from  the  Bras  d'Or  to  the  N.  shore  of  Cape  Breton  diverges 

from  the  St.  Anne  road  before  reaching  the  harbor,  and  bears  to  the  N.  E., 

along  the  W.  Branch.    It  rounds  the  North -River  Valley  by  a  great  curve, 

and  then  sweeps  up  the  harbor-shore,  under  the  imposing  cliffs  of  St. 

Anne's  Mt.     From  St.  Anne's  to  Ingonish  the  distance  is  about  40  M.,  by 

a  remarkably  picturesque  road  between  the  mountains  and  the  Atlantic, 

on  a  narrow  plain,  which  recalls  Byron's  lines:  — 

"  The  mountains  look  on  Marathon, 
And  Marathon  looks  on  tlie  sea." 

"  Grand  and  very  beautiful  are  the  rocky  gorges  and  ravines  which  Airrow  the 
hills  and  precipices  between  St.  Anne's  and  Tngonish Equally  grand  and  pic- 
turesque is  the  red  syenitic  escarpment  of  Smoky  Cape,  capped  with  the  cloud 
from  which  it  derives  its  name,  with  many  a  lofty  headland  in  the  background, 
and  the  peak  of  the  Sugar-loaf  Mountain  just  peeping  above  the  fJEur-distant  hori« 
Bon."  (Brown.) 

The  proud  headland  of  Cape  Smoky  (the  Cap  EnfumS  of  the  French)  is 
950  ft.  high,  and  runs  sheer  down  into  the  sea.  To  the  \V.  there  are  peaks 
1,200-1,300  ft.  high;  and  as  the  road  bends  around  the  deep  bights  to  the 
N.,  it  passes  under  summits  more  than  1,400  ft.  high.  Among  these  mas- 
sive hills,  and  facing  Capo  Smoky,  is  the  village  of  Ingonish,  inhabited  by 
Scottish  Catholic  fishermen,  800  of  whom  are  found  in  this  district.  On 
the  island  that  shelters  the  harbor  is  a  fixed  white  light,  237  ft.  above  the 
sea,  and  visible  for  15  M. 

Ingonish  was  one  of  the  early  stations  of  the  French.  In  1729  a  great  church  was 
built  here,  whose  foundations  only  remain  now ;  and  in  1849  a  church-bell,  marked 
St.  Malo,  1729,  and  weighing  200  pounds,  was  found  buried  in  the  sands  of  the 
beach.  The  settlement  hero  was  probably  ruined  by  the  drawing  away  of  its  people 
to  aid  in  holding  Louisbourg  against  the  Anglo-American  forces.  In  1740  Ingonish 
was  the  second  town  on  the  island,  and  its  Heet  caught  13,560  quintals  of  fish.  It 
was  destroyed,  in  1745,  by  men-of-war  from  Com.  \Varren's  fleet. 

The  highland  region  back  of  Ingonish  has  always  been  famous  for  its  abundance 
of  game,  especially  of  moo.se  and  caribou.  In  the  winter  of  1789  over  9,000  moose 
were  killed  here  for  the  sake  of  their  skins,  which  brought  ten  shillings  each ;  and 
for  many  years  this  wholesale  slaughter  went  on,  and  vessels  knew  when  they  were 
approaching  the  N.  shore  of  Cape  Breton  by  the  odor  of  decaying  carcasses  which 
came  from  the  shore.  Finally  the  outraged  laws  of  the  Province  were  vindicated  by 
the  occupation  of  Ingonish  by  a  body  of  troops,  whose  duty  it  was  to  restrain  tlw 


I   'I;'! 


160      Route  S9.  ST.  PAUL'S  ISLAND. 

moose-hanten  at  whatever  cost.  Of  late  veara  the  mooso  have  been  nearly  extern 
minated  by  city  sportsmen  and  by  the  Indians,  who  kill  them  'while  helplosoly  en- 
tangled in  the  deep  snow-drifts.  Tbe  scenery  between  Baddeck  and  Ingonish 
rei*embles  that  of  the  North  of  Scotland,  but  is  even  more  picturesque.  Many 
officers  from  the  Haii£stx  garrison  have  sought  its  moose  and  trout. 

The  highway  ends  at  Ingonish,  and  a  trail  crosses  the  mountains  to  the 
N.  N.  W.  to  Aspy  Bay^  an  open  bight  of  the  sea,  into  which  several  large 
lagoons  empty.  A  specie-ship  was  wrecked  off  this  bay  early  in  the  pres- 
ent century,  and  for  many  years  coins  were  thrown  ashore  during  heavy- 
storms.  In  1856  the  first  Atlantic  Cable  was  landed  here.  On  the  N.  W. 
shore  of  Aspy  Bay  is  the  lofty  Sugar-loaf  Mt.,  beyond  which  Cape  North 
runs  out  to  the  N.  E.,  1,000  ft.  high.  Cape  North  is  8  M.  S.  E.  by  E.  from 
Cape  St.  Lawrence,  and  between  these  two  points  is  the  St.  Lawrence  Bay^ 
on  whose  remote  shores  are  about  400  inhabitants,  while  about  Cape  North 
are  nearly  800  more.  Between  Cape  North  and  Cape  Ray,  Newfoundland, 
the  distance  is  65  M.,  and  through  this  wide  strait  is  the  middle  entrance 
to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence. 

St.  PauVs  Island. 

St.  Paul's  Island  is  18  M.  E.  N.  E.  of  Cape  North,  and  is  a  vast  mass  of 
rock,  3  M.  long  and  1  M.  wide,  bearing  three  peaks  500  ft.  high,  sur- 
rounded by  tali  cliffs  which  reach  far  below  the  water,  and  indented  by 
the  Trinity  and  Atlantic  Coves.  The  cod,  mackerel,  and  seal  fisheries 
around  the  island  are  very  valuable ;  and  the  adjacent  waters  are  of  great 
depth,  and  form  a  constant  current  to  the  S.  E.  St.  Paul's  Island  has  9 
inhabitants;  a  fixed  white  light  (visible  for  20  M.)  on  the  N.  point;  a  pro- 
vision depot  for  wrecked  sailors  in  Trinity  Cove;  a  steam  fog-whistle  in 
Atlantic  Cove ;  and  on  the  S.  point  a  revolving  white  light  of  the  first 
class,  visible  for  20  M. 

This  island  has  been  one  of  the  most  fatal  points  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  stretching, 
as  it  does,  across  sucli  an  important  route  of  marine  travel.  Thousands  of  lives  have 
been  lost  here,  and  human  bones  formerly  strewed  the  beaches,  while  anchors, 
chains,  and  other  relics  of  disaster  were  found  in  the  neighboring  waters.  The 
Acadians  of  Gheticamp  VEed  to  Tisit  the  island  every  spring,  in  order  to  secure  the 
valuable  parts  of  cargoes  and  wrecks  which  tbe  fea  threw  up  on  the  shore.  Among 
the  largest  of  the  vessels  lost  here  were  the  Horatio,  Canada,  Duncan,  Venus,  a 
transport  with  200  soldiers  (all  drowned),  the  ocean-steamship  Norwegian,  and  the 
Bhip  Jesiie.  The  latter  was  wrecked  in  mid-winter,  and  80  of  her  people  were  lost ; 
but  11  reached  the  shore,  and  wandered  about  until  they  were  all  frozen  to  death. 
With  the  present  system  of  lights,  whistles,  and  cannon,  most  of  the  danger  of  this 
island  is  removed. 

'^  A  dome  of  inhospitable  rock  peers  through  the  mist,  one  of  nature's  peniten- 
tiaries, which  no  living  man  would  own,  and  so  has  been  deeded  to  St.  Paul :  Melita 
is  Eden  to  it.  The  saint?,  it  appei.i8  to  me,  have  been  gifted  with  thcruggcdest  odds 
and  ends.'  Wlierever,  on  all  these  cast-iron  shores,  there  is  a  flinty  promontory, 
upon  which  Prometheus  himself  would  have  shuddered  to  be  chained,  there  the 
name  of  an  apostle  has  been  transfixed.  Yonder  is  Cape  North,  the  stony  arrow- 
head of  Cape  Breton,  a  headland,  rather  a  multitudinous  group  of  mountain  head- 
lands, draped  with  gloomy  grandeur,  against  the  black  clifb  of  which  the  surf  is 
now  firing  its  sno\7y  rockets All  in  all,  this  is  a  fine  termination  of  the  pic- 
turesque isle.  Steep  and  lofty ,  its  summits  are  darkened  by  steepled  evergreens, and 
iti  many  sides  gashed  with  horrid  fissures  and  ravines."    (L.  L.  N0BI.S.) 


THE  BBAS  D*OR  LAKES.       RouU  40.     161 


40.    The  Bras  d'Or  Lakes. 

The  "Inland  Route"  between  Sydney  and  Halifax.  There  are  BeTenil 
Bteamen  plying  on  the  Bras  d'Or,  making  daily  trips  in  pummer.  Tliey  le«Te  Port 
Mulgrave,  on  the  Strait  of  Ganno^after  the  arrival  of  the  Halifax  maiUtrain,  and  run 
out  eastward,  by  Isle  Madame,  and  up  St.  Peter's  Bay.  Traveraing  the  recently 
completed  St.  Peter's  Canal  by  St.  Peter's  village,  the  boats  descend  St.  Peter's 
Inlet,  bv  Chapel  Island  and  the  Micmac  Indian  Reservation  (for  all  this  region,  see 
pages  148-7),  and  run  out  into  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  After  visiting  the  various 
ports  on  the  lakes,  they  round  Point  Aconi,  and  run  around  to  Sydney  daily.  The 
agent  at  Halifax  can  give  particulars  of  sailings,  etc.  The  construction  of  the  rail- 
Wiij  from  New  Glasgow  to  the  Strait,  and  nf  the  canal,  have  made  the  Bras  d*Or 
very  accessible,  and  removed  the  trials  which  hedged  about  this  delightftil  trip 

The  routes  taken  down  the  lakes  are  various.  We  give  the  old  route  of  the  Ifep- 
tune^  although  the  usual  journey  now  is  down  the  Great  Bras  d'Or. 

After  leaving  the  wharves  of  Sydney,  the  steamer  passes  up  to  N.  Syd- 
ney, where  she  makes  a  short  stop,  then  nins  to  the  N.  E.  out  of  Sydney 
Harbor,  with  the  shafts  and  villages  of  the  Sydney  Mines  on  the  1.  After 
rounding  Cranberry  Head  the  course  is  N.  W.  for  8-9  M.,  in  the  ocean, 
passing  the  surf-beaten  Bird  Rock  on  the  1.,  while  the  stately  mountains 
towards  St.  Anne's  and  Ingonish  (see  page  159)  are  seen  in  advance. 
When  within  2-3  M.  of  Point  Aconi  the  vessel  turns  in  to  the  1.,  and  soon 
enters  the  strait  called  the  *  Little  Bras  d'Or,  a  narrow  and  river-like  pas- 
sage through  which  the  tide  sweeps  rapidly,  and  which  is  impassable  for 
large  craft.  The  water-view  is  sometimes  limited  to  a  few  score  feet,  so 
tortuous  and  landlocked  is  the  channel ;  and  there  are  several  small  and 
picturesque  hamlets  on  the  shore,  mostly  inhabited  by  immigrants  from 
the  Hebrides. 

On  the  r.  side  of  the  channel  is  Boularderie  Island,  which  is  about  85 
M.  long  by  2  -  8  M.  wide,  and  supports  a  small  farming  population.  Jn 
1713  this  rich  and  beautiful  island  was  granted  by  the  French  Crown  to 
M.  de  la  Boularderie,  an  officer  of  tfie  French  navj%  who  had  greatly  dis- 
tinguished himself  in  the  defence  of  Port  Royal  and  of  Placentia.  It  is 
now  occupied  by  Highlanders,  who  number  about  1,300,  and  have  several 
small  hamlets.  On  the  N.  end  of  the  island  is  the  coal-field  of  Point  Aconi, 
which  has  not  been  operated  for  several  years. 

The  *  Great  Bras  d'Or  is  the  channel  on  the  W.  side  of  Boularderie,  and 
is  always  used  by  ships  and  large  coasters  bound  into  the  lakes.  It  has 
from  6  to  38  fathoms  of  water,  and  is  much  grander  in  scenery  than  is  the 
E.  channel.  The  lake-steamers  usually  traverse  this  strait,  rounding  Point 
Aconi,  and  approaching  the  sea-repelling  mountains  of  St.  Anne's  and 
Ingonish.  On  the  N.  are  seen  the  Ciboux  Islands,  sheltering  St.  Anne's 
Bay  (see  page  158),  and  marked  by  a  revolving  red-and- white  light,  which 
is  visible  for  14  M.  On  the  r.  the  dark  and  wind-swept  Cape  Dauphin  is 
approached,  terminating,  in  a  peak  1,045  ft.  high,  the  massive  ridge  which 
occupies  the  peninsula  of  St.  Ann6.  Beyond  the  lighthouse  on  Black  Rock 
Point  (1.  side),  the  steHmer  passes  through  a  strait  ^  M.  wide,  and  then 
enters  the  Great  Bras  d'Or,  which  is  1-8  M.  wide,  and  is  followed  to  the 


169     Itoute  40. 


BADDECK. 


I        •  m; 


i  11    I 


S.  W.  for  nearly  80  M.,  between  the  mountains  of  St.  Anne  and  the  hi|^- 
lands  of  Boularderie. 

The  Neptune  soon  traverses  the  narrow  channel  of  the  Little  Bras  d*Or 
and  enters  a  broader  bay.  Bej'ond  Grove  Point  it  reaches  a  beautiful 
sound  which  is  followed  for  25  M.,  and  is  3-4  M.  wide.  (It  is  called  St. 
Andrew^i  Channel  on  the  Admiralty  charts,  but  that  name  is  elsewhere  ap^ 
plied  to  the  East  Bay.)  Near  George  Mt.,  on  the  1.,  are  the  low  shores  of 
Long  Island;  and  the  steamer  sometimes  stops  off  Beaver  Harbor,  or  Bois- 
dale.  The  course  is  now  laid  towards  the  W.  shore,  rounds  Kempt  Head, 
the  S.  extremity  of  Boularderie  Island,  and  passes  Coffin  Island  on  the  r., 
beyond  which  is  seen  the  long  channel  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or.  The  course 
is  nearly  N.  W.,  and  lies  between  Red  Point  (r.  side)  and  Mackay  Point  (1. 
side /,  which  are  about  3  M.  apart.  In  front  is  seen  the  village  of  Baddeck, 
while  inside  of  the  points  Baddeck  Bay  extends  to  the  r.  and  St.  Patrick's 
Channel  to  the  1. 

Baddeck  ( Telegraph  House,  comfortable;  Bras  d*  Or  Hotel)  is  the  capi- 
tal of  Victoria  County,  and  the  chief  village  on  the  Bras  d'Or.  It  has 
three  churcjhes,  a  court-house,  and  a  quaint  little  jail,  and  is  the  centre  of 
a  group  of  farming-settlements  whose  aggregate  population  is  1,749.  The 
harbor  can  accommodate  vessels  of  600  tons,  and  from  this  point  several 
cargoes  of  produce  are  annually  sent  to  Newfoundland.  Gold  has  been 
found  in  the  vicinity,  and  there  is  a  saline  spring  farther  down  the  shore. 
This  locality  was  first  visited  by  the  French,  from  whom  it  received  the 
name  Bedeque^micQ  Scotticized  to ^a(^(/ecX;( accent  on  the  last  syllable). 
It  wac  first  settled  by  the  disbanded  soldiers  of  the  Boyal  Rangers,  and  in 
1793  there  were  10  inhabitants  here. 

"  Althoujfh  it  was  Sunday,  I  could  not  but  notice  that  Baddeck  was  a  clean- 
iooking  village  of  white  wooden  houfies,  of  perhaps  7  -  800  inhabitants ;  that  it 
stretched  along  the  shore  for  a  mile  or  more,  straggling  off  into  farm-houses  at  each 
end,  lying  for  the  most  part  on  the  sloping  curve  of  the  bay.  There  were  a  few 
counti^-looking  stores  and  shops,  and  on  the  shore  three  or  four  rather  decayed 
and  shaky  wharves  ran  into  the  water,  and  a  few  schooners  lay  at  anchor  near 
them  ;  and  the  usual  decaying  warehouses  leaned  about  the  docks.  A  peacefhl  and 
perhaps  a  thriving  place,  but  not  a  bustling  place 

"  Having  attributed  the  quiet  of  Baddeck  on  Sunday  to  religion,  we  did  not  know 
to  what  to  lay  the  quiet  on  Monday.  But  its  peacefulness  continued.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  the  farmers  began  to  farm,  and  the  traders  to  trade,  and  the  sailors  to 
sail ;  but  the  tourist  felt  that  he  had  come  into  a  place  of  rest.  The  promise  of  the 
red  sky  the  evening  before  was  fVilfllled  in  another  royal  day.  There  was  an  inspira- 
tion in  the  air  that  one  looks  for  rather  in  the  mountains  than  on  the  sea-coast,  ifc 
seemed  like  some  npw  and  gentle  compound  of  sea-air  and  land-air,  which  was  the 
perfection  of  breathing  material.  In  this  atmosphere,  which  seems  to  flow  over  all 
these  Atlantic  isles  at  this  season,  one  endures  a  great  deal  of  exercise  with  little 
&tigue ;  or  he  is  content  to  sit  still  and  has  no  feeling  of  sluggishness.  Merc  living 
Is  a  kind  of  happiness,  and  the  easy-going  traveller  is  satisfied  with  little  to  do  and 
less  to  see.     Let  the  reader  not  understand  that  we  are  recommending  him  to  go  to 

Baddeck.    Far  Arom  it There  are  few  whom  it  would  pay  to  go  a  thousand 

miles  for  the  sake  of  sitting  on  the  dock  at  Baddeck  when  the  sun  goes  down,  and 
watching  the  purple  lights  on  the  islands  and  the  distant  bills,  the  red  flush  on  the 
horison  and  on  the  lake,  and  the  creeping  on  of  gray  twilight.  You  can  see  all  this 
•■  well  elsewhere?    I  am  not  so  sure.    There  is  a  harmony  of  beauty  about  the 


BADDRCK. 


itouu  40,     163 


Anne  and  the  hlg^- 


Bns  d'Or  ftt  Baddeek  which  Is  laeking  in  manj  'teenes  of  more  inreteiurion." 
(Charles  Dodlet  Wabnkb's  Baddeek;  and  that  Sort  of  Viing.) 

The  tourist  who  stops  at  Baddeek  should  visit  the  Indian  village  which 
occup'es  a  grassy  point  near  the  town.  It  pertains  to  one  of  the  clans  of 
the  Micmac  tribe,  and  usually  has  12-15  wigwams.  Visitors  are  received 
with  a  not  unkindly  indifference,  and  may  here  study  Indian  domestic 
life,  the  curious  manner  of  carrying  babies,  and  the  architecture  of  the 
wigwam.  Some  of  the  people  can  talk  English.  The  visitor  should  en- 
deavor to  see  one  of  the  Micmac  Catholic  prayer-books,  printed  (at  Vienna) 
in  a  singular  hieroglyphic,  and  bought  by  the  Indians  at  the  Trappist  mon- 
astery in  Tracadie.  The  camp  at  Baddeek  is  broken  up  in  the  autumn 
and  the  people  retire  to  their  reservations  near  the  hunting-grounds. 

The  Micmacs  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape  Breton  still  retain  many  of  their  ancient 
customs,  and  are  of  purer  blood  than  any  other  tribe  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  They 
number  about  1,600  (and  1,400  in  New  Brunswick),  and  occupy  several  reservatioiu 
in  the  Province,  where  they  are  cared  for  and  protected  by  the  Dominion  govem- 
Dient.  Under  this  paternal  care  (strongly  contrasting  with  the  Indian  policy  of  ths 
United  States)  the  aborigines  are  steadily  increasing  in  numl)er8  and  approaching  & 
better  standard  of  civilization,  and  are  loyal  and  useful  subjects  of  their  "  great 
mother,"  Queen  Victoria.  The  discipline  of  families  is  well  preserved  by  the  use  of 
corporeal  punishment.  Warm  parental  affection  is  a  strongly  marked  feature,  and 
the  subordination  of  the  women  is  still  maintained,  though  ameliorated  by  Che  in- 
fluences of  civilization.  The  Micmacs  have  exchanged  their  former  belief  in  and 
worship  of  tlie  hostile  principles  of  good  and  evil  for  the  creed  of  the  Roman  Cath- 
olic Church,  of  which  they  are  devout  communicants. 

Their  language  has  many  curious  verbal  coincidences  with  that  of  the  Qaelic  race, 
and  is  said  to  be  "  copious,  tlexible,  and  expressive."  Philologists  have  also  tiaced 
a  marked  analogy  between  theOreek  and  Micmac  languages,  basing  thereon  a  sharp 
rebuke  to  Renan's  Qippant  attack  on  the  aboriginal  tongues  of  America. 

Bnddeck  to  Whycocomagh,  see  T?oute  41.  Baddeek  to  St.  Anne's  Bay, 
see  Route  39.  A  road  runs  from  this  point  nearly  N.  for  10  M.  to  tlie 
forks  of  the  Big  Baddeek  River,  where  trout  are  found.  To  the  N.  are 
the  Baddeek  Mts.,  an  unexplored  and  savage  highland  region  which  ex- 
tends for  100  M.  to  the  N.,  as  far  as  Cape  North,  with  a  breadth  of  15-26 
M.  This  mountain-region  has  been  a  i'avorite  hunting-ground  for  moose 
and  caribou,  which  are  now  carefully  preserved  by  Provincial  game-laws ; 
and  it  also  contains  bears,  wolves  and  foxes,  rabbits  and  hares,  beaver, 
mink,  and  muskrats. 

The  Margaret  River  may  be  reached  from  Baddeek  (in  28  M.)  by  a 
picturesque  road,  ascending  the  long  valley,  and  crossing  the  Hunter's 
Mt.,  with  fine  views  over  the  Bras  d*Or.  The  pleasant  rural  district  of 
the  Middle  Valley  is  then  traversed,  and  the  road  leads  through  a  remark- 
able pass  of  the  hills  and  enters  the  rich  valley  of  the  Margaree,  famous 
for  Its  fishing  (see  Route  42).  Visitors  to  this  district  usually  board  in 
the  farm-houses,  where  plain  and  substantial  fare  is  given. 

The  Middle  River  lies  to  the  W.  of  Baddeek,  and  is  approached  by  the  Whyco- 
comagh road  (Route  41).  The  valley  has  over  1,000  inhabitants,  of  the  Qaelic  High- 
land race,  many  of  whom  are  unacquainted  with  the  English  language.  Near  their 
settlements  are  prolific  trout-streams,  where  fine  sport  may  he  enjoyed  in  the  early 
summer.  The  chief  settlements  are  respectively  12, 18,  and  16  M.  from  Baddectc, 
and  near  the  head  of  the  river  is  an  undeveloped  gold  district.    A  few  milet  up  thi* 


164     Route  40. 


THE  BRAS  D'OR. 


!  I 


river  is  "  a  Oaelic  nettlement  of  fhrmen.  The  riTer  here  flows  thraneh  lovely  mead' 
ows,  sandy,  fertile,  and  sheltered  by  hills,  —  a  green  Eden,  one  of  ue  few  pfaeefVU 
Inhabited  spots  in  the  world.  I  could  conceive  of  no  news  coming  to  these  High- 
landers later  than  the  defeat  of  the  Pretender. " 

In  1801  the  total  population  of  the  Island  of  Cape.Breton  was  2,513,  including 
Englishmen,  Acadian^,  and  Micniacs.  In  1802  the  firfit  emigrant-ship  arrived  at 
Sydney  from  Scotland,  and  since  that  time  over  25,000  Scottish  immigrants  have 
landed  and  settled  on  this  inland.  They  rapidly  spread  over  the  W.  coast  and  occu* 
pied  the  shores  of  the  Kras  d'Or  and  its  connected  waters,  and  Cape  Breton  is  now, 
and  probably  will  ever  be,  a  Scottish  land.  After  the  dispersal  of  the  Highland  clans 
and  the  final  pacification  of  Northern  Scotland,  the  chieftains  and  nobles  found  it 
more  profitable  to  devote  their  estates  to  cattle-raising  than  to  maintain  the  old  ten- 
antry system.  So  thousands  of  poor  tenant-farmers  were  expelled  from  their  head- 
ings and  their  ancient  homes  to  make  room  for  deer-parks  or  8he<>p-farms  among 
(he  glens.  Driven  forth  against  their  will,  they  cros.'^ed  the  Atlantic  to  settle  on 
the  New-World  shores,  in  a  fairer  but  less  honored  land.  The  selfish  policy  of  the 
powerful  nobles  depopulated  broad  districts  of  the  Highlands.  *'  Many  who  had 
friends  in  the  colonies,  and  knew  what  they  had  to  expect,  emigrated  with  great 
alacrity ;  but  thousands,  who  had  no  such  desire,  on  the  contrary  the  greatest 
repugnance  to  leave  the  land  of  their  fathers,  the  familiar  hills,  and  the  green 
tlopes  of  Lochaber,  were  heart-broken  at  the  idea  of  being  separated  from  them  by 
a  thousand  leagues  of  raging  sea."  This  hardy  rural  population  is  peculiarly  adapted 
io  develop  a  new  country  like  Cape  Breton,  and  can  also  endure  the  great  fluctu- 
ations of  the  climate,  which  range  from  32°  below  zero  to  96°  above.  The  descend- 
ants of  these  immigrants  are  superior  to  the  native  Highlanders,  both  physically 
and  mentally,  and  pay  more  attention  to  the  education  of  their  ciiildren  and  to  the 
general  estate  of  the  nation.  

On  leaving  Baddeck  the  steamer  runs  out  around  Mackay's  Point,  and 
ascends  the  *  Little  Bras  d'  Or  Lake,  to  the  S.  W.  This  sheet  of  water  i' 
6  -  6  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  on  the  E.  by  the  peninsula  of  St.  Andrew 
and  the  hills  back  of  Sunacadie  and  Christmas  Island,  and  on  the  W.  by 
the  highlands  of  the  Watchabaktchkt  peninsula. 

"  The  most  electric  American,  heir  of  all  the  nervous  diseases  of  all  the 
ages,  could  not  but  find  peace  in  this  scene  of  tranquil  beauty,  and  sail 
on  into  a  great  and  deepeni'jg  contentment.  Would  the  voyage  could  last 
for  an  age,  with  the  same  sparkling  but  tranquil  sea,  and  the  same  en- 
vironment of  hills,  near  and  remote.  The  hills  approached  and  fell  away 
in  lines  of  undulating  grace,  draped  with  a  tender  color  which  helped  to 
carry  the  imagination  beyc-id  the  earth. 

"  Certainly,  as  we  glided  out  upon  the  summer  waters  and  began  to 
get  the  graceful  outline  of  the  widening  shores,  it  seemed  as  if  we  had 

taken  passage  to  the  Fortunate  Isles It  was  enough  to  sit  on  deck 

forward  of  the  wheel-house,  and  absorb,  by  all  the  senses,  the  delicious 
day.  With  such  weather  perpetual  and  such  scenery  always  present,  sin  in 
this  world  would  soon  become  an  impossibility."  (Warner's  Baddeck.) 

12-15  M.  from  Baddeck  is  the  *  Strait  of  Barra  (or  Grand  Narrows), 
so  named  because  the  inhabitants  of  the  adjacent  shores  came  from  the 
island  of  Barra,  in  the  Hebrides.  The  strait  is  picturesque,  and  is  2  M. 
long  and  1  M.  wide.  On  the  shore  are  a  conspicuous  Catholic  church  and 
a  lighthouse;  and  the  inhabitants  are  nearly  all  Campbells  and  McNeils. 

The  steamer  now  enters  the  *  Oreat  Brai  d'Or  Lakei  a  noble  expanse 
of  water  with  a  depth  of  firom  15  to  67  fathoms.    It  is  difficult  fo  state  its 


THE  BRAS  FOR. 


RmUe  40.    165 


[ue,  and  is  2  M. 


size,  on  aceonnt  of  the  nnmerous  deep  bays,  bat  from  the  Strait  of  Barra 
to  the  S.  shore  it  is  18  M.  long  (N.  and  S.),  and  from  Malaga wdatchkt  it  is 
nearly  20  M.  (E.  and  W.).  From  the  head  of  West  Bay  to  the  head  of 
East  Bay,  a  vessel  co.uld  sail  in  a  straight  course  nearly  50  M. 

"  The  Bras  d'Or  Is  the  most  beautifiil  salt-water  lake  T  hare  ever  seen,  and  more 

beautiful  than  we  had  imagined  a  body  of  salt  water  could  be The  water  seeks 

out  all  the  low  places,  and  ramifies  the  interior,  running  away  into  lovely  bays  and 
lagoons,  leaving  slender  tongues  of  land  and  picturesque  islands,  and  bringing  into 
the  recesses  of  the  land,  to  the  remote  country  farms  and  settlements  the  flavor  of 
salt,  and  the  fish  and  molluska  of  the  briny  sea.  There  is  very  little  tide  at  any 
time,  so  that  the  shores  are  clean  and  sightly  for  the  most  part,  like  those  of  a  Acesh- 
water  iake.  It  has  all  the  pleasantness  of  a  fresh-water  lake,  with  all  the  advaa> 
tagea  of  a  salt  one.  In  the  streams  which  run  into  it  are  the  speckled  trout,  the 
shad,  and  the  salmon ;  out  of  its  depths  are  hooked  the  cod  and  the  mackerel,  and 
in  its  bays  fatten  the  oyster.  This  irregular  lake  is  about  100  M.  long,  if  yon  meas- 
ure it  skilfully,  and  in  some  places  10  M.  broad ;  but  so  indented  ia  it,  that  I  am 
not  sure  but  one  would  need,  as  we  were  informed,  to  ride  1,000  M.  to  go  round  it, 
following  all  its  incursions  into  the  land.  The  hills  around  it  are  never  more  than 
6-600  ft.  high,  but  they  are  high  enough  for  reposeful  beauty,  and  offer  every  where 
pleasing  lines."    (Warmeh's  Baddeck  ) 

Soon  after  passing  the  Strait  of  Barra  the  broad  estuary  of  the  River 
Denys  is  seen  on  the  r.  Deep  ship-channels  may  be  followed  thither,  pass- 
ing at  first  through  a  cluster  of  islets,  and  then  into  the  North  Basin, 
whence  the  Portage  Inlet  runs  N.  to  within  ^  M.  of  the  Whycocomagh 
Basin.  The  Inner  Basin  is  7  M.  long  and  2  -  3  M.  wide,  and  is  sometimes 
visited  by  ships,  which  load  here  with  lumber  for  England.  The  River 
Denys  debouches  into  the  S.  W.  angle  of  this  basin.  There  are  five  ham- 
lets of  from  150  to  300  inhabitants  each,  situated  on  the  basins  and  the 
river,  most  of  the  people  being  from  the  Western  Isles  of  Scotland. 

The  ancient  Indian  name  for  the  Bras  d'Or  was  Bideauboch ;  St.  Patrick's  Channel 
was  called  Ouamech;  the  River-Denys  Basin,  Mirmini^vash;  the  West  Bay,  Pcujue- 
lacarJie;  and  the  East  Bay,  Piscnbouash.  For  the  convenience  of  trading  with  the 
numerous  Indians  who  inhabited  the.se  shores,  M.  Denys  established  his  forts  at  St. 
Peter^s  and  St.  Anne's ;  but  there  is  no  record  of  settlements  by  the  French  on  the 
lakes.    The  chief  seat  of  the  Indians  is  now  on  the  shore  where 

"  Escasoni's  fountains 
Pour  down  their  crystal  tide." 

The  beautiful  basin  and  river  of  Denys  were  named  in  honor  of  their  discoverer, 
Nicholas  Denys,  Sieur  de  Fronsac,  who  was  appointed  by  King  Louis,  in  1651, 
"  Governor  and  Lieu  tenant-General "  of  Gape  Breton  and  the  adjacent  shores. 

When  the  steamer  is  about  4  M.  from  the  Strait  of  Barra,  Benacadie 
I'oint  is  seen  on  the  1.,  7-8  M.  distant,  below  which  is  the  great  opening 
of  the  East  Bay  or  St.  Andrew's  Channel,  running  in  to  the  N.  E.  for 
nearly  25  M.  (see  page  147).  10-  12  M.  below  the  strait  is  the  open'ng  of 
the  long  and  sinuous  harbor  of  Malagawdatchkt,  which  approaches  the 
marble  formations  of  the  >vestern  liighlands,  and  has  a  village  of  360  in- 
habitants.   To  the  S.  E.  are  the  islands  off  St.  Peter'' s  Inlet. 

Opening  away  on  the  right  is  the  S.  W.  arm  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or, 
which  is  called  the  West  Bay,  or  St.  George's  Channel,  and  is  about  15  M. 
long  and  7  M.  wide.    It  contains  numerous  islands,  and  is  separated  from 


!  :,iiil 


i  ''11' 


166     Boute  40. 


THE  BRAS  D'OB. 


the  River-Denys  Basin  by  a  range  of  massive  highlands  on  the  N.  Tlie 
N.  shore  hills  are  700  -  770  ft.  high,  and  those  on  the  S.  shore  are  26d  -  630 
ft.  high.  The  shores  are  thinly  inhabited,  and  the  only  hamlets  are  at  the 
head. 

"  The  only  other  thing  of  note  the  Bras  d^Or  offered  ns  before  we  reached  West 
Bay  was  the  finest  nhow  of  medusae  or  jelly-fit^h  that  could  be  produced.  At  first 
there  were  dozens  of  these  disk-shaped  transparent  creatures,  and  then  hundreds, 
starring  the  water  like  marguerites  sprinkled  on  a  meadow,  and  of  sizes  from  that 
of  a  teacup  to  a  dinner-plate.  We  soon  ran  into  a  school  of  them,  a  conventiou^  a 
herd  as  extensive  as  th*  vast  buffalo  droves  on  the  plains,  a  collection  as  thick  as 
eloTer-blossoms  in  a  field  in  June,  miles  of  them  apparently  ;  and  at  length  the  boat 
had  to  push  its  way  through  a  mass  of  them  which  covered  the  water  like  the  leaves 
of  the  pond-lily,  and  filled  the  deeps  far  down  with  their  beautiful  contracting  and 
expanding  forms  I  did  not  suppose  there  were  so  many  jelly-fishes  in  all  the  world." 
(WARNEB's  Badderk.) 

"The  scenery  of  the  lakes  is  exceedingly  striking  and  diversified.  Long  rocRy 
clifl!)  and  escarpments  rise  in  some  places  abruptly  froiTi  the  wat«r's  edge ;  in  others, 
undulating  or  mllitjg  hills  predominate,  fringed  on  th""  iihores  by  low  white  cliOs  of 
gypsum  or  red  conglomerate ;  whilst  the  deep  basins  and  channe'*,  which  branch 
off  in  all  directions  from  the  central  expanse  of  waters,  studded  witn  innumerable 
Lolets  covered  with  a  rich  growth  of  spruce  and  hemlock,  present  views  the  most 
picturesque  and  diversified  imaginable."    (Brown.) 

"  The  scenery, of  this  vast  inlet  is  in  some  places  beautifully  picturesque,  and  in 
some  others  moi^otonous  and  uninteresting,  but  in  many  parts  of  a  sublime  charac- 
ter, which  exhibits  the  sombre  gloom  of  pine  forests,  the  luxuriant  verdure  of  broad 
Talieys  and  wooded  mountains,  and  the  wild  features  of  lofty  promontories  frowning 
in  stubborn  ruggedness  over  the  waters  of  the  rivers  and  inlets."    (M'Qregob  ) 

*'  So  wide  is  it,  and  so  indented  by  broad  bays  and  deep  coves,  that  a  coasting 
journey  around  it  is  equal  in  extent  to  a  voyage  across  the  Atlanlic.  Besides  the 
distant  mountains  that  rise  proudly  from  the  remote  shores,  there  are  many  noble 
Islands  in  its  expanse,  and  forest-covered  peninsulas,  bordered  with  beaches  of  glit- 
tering white  pebbles.  But  over  all  this  wide  landscape  there  broods  a  spirit  of 
!>rimeval  solitude For,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  Golden  Arm  is  a  very  use- 
ess  piece  of  water  in  this  part  of  the  world ;  highly  favored  as  it  is  by  nature,  land- 
locked, deep  enough  for  vessels  of  all  burden,  easy  of  access  on  the  Gulf  side,  flree 
ttom  fogs,  and  only  separated  from  the  ocean  at  its  southern  end  by  a  narrow  strip  of 
land,  about  i  M.  wide ;  abounding  in  timber,  c\  i,  and  gypsum, and  valuable  for  its 
fisheries,  especially  in  winter,  yet  the  Bras  d'Ur  is  undeveloped  for  want  of  that 
elemeut  which  seems  to  be  alien  to  the  Colonies,  namely,  enterprise.^^    (Cozzens.) 

'■  The  climate  of  Baddeck  in  summer  is  delightful,  the  nights  being  always  cool 
and  tliu  heat  of  the  day  never  oppressive ;  ou  only  one  occasion  last  July  did  the 
thermometer  indicate  80°.  The  air  has  a  life  and  an  elasticity  in  it  unknown  ia 
lower  latitudes  during  the  summer  months.  .  .  .  The  water-view  is  ono  of  the  finest 
to  bo  found  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  clear  blue  waters  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  here  seven 
or  eight  miles  wide,  arc  apparently  hemmed  in  by  ranges  of  mountains,  which  in 
some  places  rise  abruptly  from  the  water  in  lofty  cliffs  of  plaster  or  gypsum,  worn 
by  the  action  of  water  into  strange  and  fantastic  forms.  These  white  cliffs,  fringed 
with  dark  evergreens,  form,  with  the  red  conglomerate  and  bright  green  fields 
stretching  down  to  the  water's  edge,  a  most  beautiful  picture,  which  is  appro- 
priately framed  with  long  lines  of  mountains.  The  Bras  d'Or,  though  an  arm  of 
the  sea,  has  here  a  tide  of  only  from  six  to  eighteen  inches,  so  that  those  fond  of 
aquatic  pursuits  are  not  burdened  with  a  head  current  when  homeward  bound." 

(OUASDLEB.) 


ST.  PATRICK'S  CHANNEL.      Houte  il.      167 


''."     (C0ZZ£N8.) 


41    Baddeok  to  Mabon  and  Port  Hood.  — St  Patrick*! 
Channel  and  Whycocomagh. 

This  route  Is  traTened  by  the  Royal  mail-stage  on  Monday  and  Wednesday,  lear- 
ing  Baddectc  at  noon,  and  reaching  Whycocomagh  after  4  o'clock,  and  Habon  at  9 
P.M.  The  distance  is  about  60  M. ;  the  ftre  is  9  2  50.  Tlie  Royal  mail-stage  on  thla 
route  is  a  one-horse  vragon  ^ith  a  single  seat,  so  that  the  accommodations  for  trayel 
are  limited. 

Mr.  Warner  thus  describes  the  road  between  Whycocomagh  and  Baddeck:  "  From 
the  time  we  first  struck  the  Bras  d'Or  for  thirty  miles  we  rode  in  constant  sight  of 
its  magnificent  water.  Now  we  were  two  hundred  feet  above  the  water.on  the  hiU'- 
side  skirting  a  point  or  following  an  indentation  ;  and  now  we  were  diving  into  a 
narrow  valley,  crossing  a  stream,  or  turning  a  sharp  comer,  but  always  with  th« 
Bras  d'Or  in  view,  the  afternoon  sun  shining  on  it,  softening  the  outlines  of  its  «n> 
bracing  hills,  casting  a  shadow  from  its  wooded  islands.  Sometimes  we  opened  apon 
a  broad  water  plain  bounded  by  the  Watchabaktchkt  hills,  and  again  we  looked  over 
bill  after  hill  receding  into  the  soft  and  hazy  blue  of  the  land  beyond  the  great  maaa 
of  the  Braa  d'Or  The  reader  can  compare  the  view  and  the  ride  to  the  Bay  of 
Naples  and  the  Cornice  Road  ;  we  did  nothing  of  the  sort ;  we  held  on  to  the  seat, 
prayed  that  the  harness  of  the  pony  might  not  break,  and  gave  constant  ezpreftdon 
to  our  wonder  and  delight." 

St.  Patrick's  Channel  is  20  M.  long  by  1-8  M.  wide,  aud  is  made 
highly  picturesque  by  its  deep  coves,  wooded  points,  and  lofty  shores.  Its 
general  course  is  followed  by  the  highway,  affording  rich  views  from  some 
of  the  higher  grades.  After  leaving  Baddeck  the  road  strikes  across  the 
country  for  about  5  M.  to  the  Baddeck  River,  in  whose  upper  waters  are 
large  trout.  Beyond  this  point  the  road  swings  around  the  blue  expanse 
of  Indian  Bay,  approaching  a  bold  hill-range  660  ft.  high,  and  crosses  the  , 
Middle  River,  at  whose  mouth  is  an  Indian  reservation.  Frequent  glimpses 
are  afforded  of  St.  Patrick's  Channel,  well  to  the  1.  across  the  green  mead- 
ows. A  range  of  lofty  heights  now  forces  the  road  nearer  to  the  water, 
aud  it  passei;  within  2  M.  of  the  remarkable  strait  known  as  the  Litth 
Narrowff  about  which  there  are  150  inhabitants. 

A  road  leads  N.  W.  6  M.  into  Ainslie  Glen,  and  to  the  great  Alnslie  I<alce, 

which  covers  25  square  miles,  and  is  the  source  of  the  Margaree  River  Its  shores 
are  broken  and  rugged,  and  are  occupied  by  a  hardy  population  of  Highlanders, 
Petroleum  springs  have  been  fouud  in  this  vicinity  (see  page  169). 

Beyond  the  Little  Narrows  is  a  magnificent  basin,  16  M.  long  and  8-6 
M.  wide,  into  whose  sequestered  and  forest-bound  waters  large  ships  make 
their  way,  and  are  here  laden  with  timber  for  Europe.  On  his  second  trip 
up  this  Basin,  the  Editor  was  startled,  on  rounding  a  promontory,  at  seeing 
a  large  Liverpool  ship  lying  here,  at  anchor,  with  her  yard-arms  almost 
among  the  trees.  The  road  runs  around  the  successive  spurs  of  the  Salt 
Mt.f  a  massive  ridge  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  Basin,  and  many  very  attractive 
views  are  gained  from  its  upper  reaches.  The  water  is  of  a  rich  blue, 
partly  owing  to  its  depth,  which  is  from  3  to  20  fathoms. 

Whyoocomagli  (Inverness  House)  is  a  Scottish  Presbyterian  bamlet, 
situated  at  the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  Basin,  and  surrounded  by  pretty  Trosach- 
like  scenery.     There  are  about  400  inhabitants  in  this  neighborhood, 


'  ii! 


■  li-'i 


! 


I    , 


l>    If 
'!  ml 


i\i 


iiii 


HI 


168      ItouU49, 


WHYCOCOMAGH. 


whence  small  cargoes  of  produce  are  annually  shipped  to  Newfoundland. 
Near  this  point  is  a  marble  cave,  with  several  chambers  6  -  8  ft.  high;  and 
foxes  are  oAen  seen  among  the  hills.  Ii  is  claimed  that  valuable  deposits 
of  magnetic  and  hematitic  iron-ore  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 
Stages  run  80  M.  S.  W.  from  Whycocomagh  to  Port  Hastings,  on  the  tame 
and  uninteresting  road  known  as  the  Victoria  Line. 

*'  What  we  first  saw  was  an  inlet  of  the  Bras  d'Or,  called  by  the  drirer  Hogamah 
Bay.  At  its  entrance  were  long,  wooded  islands,  beyond  which  we  saw  the  backs 
of  graceftil  hills,  like  the  capes  of  some  pottic  Eea-coast  ....  A  peaceful  place,  this 
Whycoconiagh.  The  lapsing  waters  of  the  Bras  d'Or  made  a  summer  music  t^ 
tlODg  the  quiet  street ;  the  bay  lay  rmiling  with  its  islands  in  front,  and  an  amphi- 
theatre  of  hills  rose  beyond."  ( WAaNEB's  Baddeck.) 

On  leaving  Whycocomagh  the  quaint  double  peaks  of  Salt  Mt.  are  seen 
in  retrospective  views,  and  the  road  soon  enters  the  Skye  Glen,  a  long, 
narrow  valley,  which  is  occupied  by  tlie  Highhinders.  The  wagon  soon 
reaches  the  picturesque  gorge  of  the  Mabou  Valley,  with  the  mountainous 
mass  of  Cape  Mabou  in  front.  The  Mull  River  is  seen  on  the  1.,  glitter- 
ing far  below  in  the  valley,  and  erelong  the  widenings  of  the  sea  are 
reached,  and  the  traveller  arrives  at  the  wretched  inn  of  Mabou.  The 
stage  for  Port  Hood  (10  M.  S.)  leaves  at  noon,  reaching  Port  Hastings  at 
7.30  P.  M.  (see  Route  42).       

The  Bras  d'Or  steamer  ascends  St.  Patrick's  Channel  to  Whycocomagh 
every  week,  on  its  alternate  trips  passing  around  from  Sydney  to  the 
Channel  by  way  of  the  Great  Bras  d'Or  (Sydney  to  Whycocomagh,  S  2). 
This  route  is  much  easier  for  the  traveller  than  that  by  the  stage,  and 
reveals  as  much  natural  beauty,  if  made  during  the  hours  of  daylight. 
The  passage  of  the  Little  Narrows  and  the  approach  to  Whycocomagh  are 
its  most  striking  phases. 

42.  The  West  Coast  of  Cape  Breton. —Port  Hood  and  Mar- 

garee. 

The  Royal  mail-stage  leaves  Fort  Hastings  every  evening,  at  about  4o^clock,  after 
the  arrival  of  the  Halifax  mail-train.  Fare  to  Port  Hood,  $  2 ;  $  1  by  steamer,  in 
Bummer. 

Distances.  —  Port  Hastings  to  Low  Point,  7  M. ;  Creignish,  9 ;  Long  Point,  14 ; 
Judiqiie,  18;  Little  Judique,  '24;  Port  Hood,  28;  Mabou,  38;  Broad  Cove  Inter- 
vale, 66 ;  Margaree  Forks,  68;  Margaree,  76  ;  Gheticamp,  88. 

The  first  portion  of  this  route  is  interesting,  a.s  it  affords  frequent  pleas- 
ant views  of  the  Strait  of  Canso  and  its  bright  maritime  processions.  The 
trend  of  the  coast  is  followed  from  Port  Hastings  to  the  N.  W.,  and  a  suc- 
cession of  small  hamlets  is  seen  along  the  bases  of  the  highlands.  Just 
beyond  Low  Point  ig  the  Catholic  village  of  the  same  name,  looking  out 
over  the  sea.  The  road  now  skirts  the  wider  waters  of  St.  George's  Bay, 
over  which  the  dark  Antigonish  Mts.  are  visible.  Beyond  the  settlements 
of  Creignish  and  Xx)ng  Point  is  the  populous  district  of  Judique^  inhab- 


PORT  HOOD. 


Route  4S.      169 


ited  by  Scottish  Catholics,  who  are  devoted  to  the  sea  and  to  agricnltara. 
The  Jndiquers  are  famons  throughout  the  Province  for  their  ^^  t  stature, 
and  are  well  known  to  the  American  fishermen  on  account  oi  their  pug- 
nacity. Yankee  crews  landing  on  this  coast  are  frequently  assailed  by 
these  pugilistic  Gaels,  and  the  stalwart  men  of  Judique  usually  come  off 
victorious  in  the  fistic  encounters.  The  district  has  about  2,000  inhab- 
itants. 

Port  Hood  (two  inns)  is  the  capital  of  Inverness  County,  and  is  a  pic- 
turesque little  seaport  of  about  800  inhabitants.  The  American  fishermen 
in  the  Gulf  frequently  take  shelter  here  during  rough  weather,  and  400 
sail  have  been  seen  in  the  port  at  one  time.  There  are  large  coal-deposits 
in  the  vicinity,  which,  however,  have  not  yet  been  developed  to  any 
extent.  The  town  was  founded  by  Capt.  Smith  and  a  party  of  New- 
Englanders,  in  1790.  "  This  port  affords  the  only  safa  anchorage  on  the 
W.  coast  of  Cape  Breton  to  the  N.  of  the  Gut  of  Canso,"  and  is  marked 
by  a  red-and-white  light,  near  the  highway,  on  the  S.  Off  shore  is  Smith's 
Island,  which  is  2  M.  long  and  210  ft.  high,  beyond  which  are  the  high 
shores  of  Henry  Island.  The  Magdalen-Islands  steamer  touches  at  Port 
Hood  (see  Route  49)  and  a  stage-road  runs  N.  E.  to  Hillsborough,  where 
if,  meets  the  road  from  Mabou,  and  thence  passes  E.  to  Whycocomagh  (see 
page  167). 

Mabou  (uncomfortable  inn)  is  10  M.  N.  E.  of  Port  Hood,  and  is  reached 
by  a  daily  stage  passing  along  the  shore-road.  It  is  at  the  mouth  of  the 
broad  estuary  of  the  Mabou  River,  amid  bold  and  attractive  scenery,  and 
contains  about  800  inhabitants.  To  the  N.  E.  is  the  highland  district  of 
Cape  Mabou,  averaging  1,000  ft.  in  height,  and  thickly  wooded.  The 
Gulf-shore  road  to  Margaree  runs  between  this  range  and  the  sea,  passing 
the  marine  hamlets  of  Cape  Mabou  and  Sight  Point.  There  is  an  inland 
road,  behind  the  hills,  which  is  entered  by  following  the  Whycocomagh 
road  to  the  head  of  the  estuary  of  the  Mabou  and  then  diverging  to  the 
N.  E.  This  road  is  traversed  by  a  tri-weekly  stage,  and  leads  up  by  the 
large  farming-settlement  at  Broad  Cove  Intervale,  to  the  W.  shores  of 
Lake  AinsUe  (see  page  167),  which  has  several  small  Scottish  hamlets 
among  the  glens. 

"The  angler  'who  has  once  driven  through  Ainslie  Glen  to  the  (>hoTes  of  the 
lake,  launched  his  canoe  upon  its  broad  waters,  and  entered  its  swiftly  running 
stream,  will  never  be  content  to  return  until  he  has  fished  its  successive  pools  to  its 
very  mouth." 

A  road  leads  out  from  near  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake  to  the  village  of 
Broad  Cove  Chapel,  on  the  Gulf  coast,  traversing  a  pass  in  the  highlands. 
The  stage  runs  N.  between  the  hills  and  the  valley  of  the  Margaree  (S.  W. 
Branch),  "one  of  the  most  romantic  and  best  stocked  salmon-rivers  in  the 
world."  Beyond  the  settlement  of  Broad  Cove  Marsh,  a  road  runs  out  to 
the  Gulf  abreast  of  Sea-  Wolf  Island,  on  whose  clififs  is  a  fixed  light,  800  ft. 
8 


170     Routt  4i. 


BfARGASEE. 


'iili 


■i:h 


high.  Margaret  Forks  is  a  rural  Tillage  at  the  junction  of  the  N.  E.  and 
S.  W.  Branches  of  the  famous  Kargaree  Siver,  where  salmon  abound 
from  Jane  16  until  July  15,  and  rare  sea-trout  fishing  is  found. 

"  In  Cape  Breton  the  beautiful  Margaree  is  one  of  the  mott  noted  streams  fbr  sea- 
trout,  and  its  clear  water  and  picturesque  scenery,  windin^r  through  interrale  mead- 
ows dotted  with  groups  of  witch-elm,  and  baciied  by  wooded  hills  over  a  thouaaad 
fiset  in  height,  entitle  it  to  pre-eminence  amongst  the  rivers  of  the  Oulf ." 

There  are  several  small  hamlets  in  this  region,  with  a  total  population 
of  over  4,000.  Margaree  is  on  the  harbor  of  the  same  name,  near  the 
Chimney-Corner  coal-mines,  48  M.  from  Port  Hood,  and  has  a  small  fledt 
of  fishing-vessels.  A  shore-road  runs  N.  E.  12  M.  to  Cketicampy  a  district 
containing  about  2,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  of  the  old  Acadian 
race.  It  is  a  fishing  station  of  Robin  &  Co.,  an  ancient  and. powerful 
commercial  house  on  the  Isle  of  Jersey;  and  was  founded  by  them  in  17^4, 
and  settled  by  Acadian  refugees  from  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  harbor 
is  suitable  for  small  vessels,  and  is  formed  by  Cheticamp  Islaii.".,  sheltering 
the  mouth  of  the  Cheticamp  River.  There  is  a  powerful  revoi/ing  white 
light  on  the  S.  point  of  the  island,  150  ft.  high,  and  visible  for  20  M. 
at  sea. 

N.  E.  and  E.  of  Cheticamp  extends  the  great  highland-wilderness  of 
the  N.  part  of  Cape  Breton  (see  page  163),  an  unexplored  and  trackless 
land  of  forests  and  mountains.  There  are  no  roads  above  Cheticamp,  and 
the  most  northerly  point  of  the  Province,  Cape.  St.  Lawrence  (see  page 
159),  is  30  M.  N.  E.  by  £.  1^  E.  from  the  N.  part  cf  Cheticamp  Island. 


The  terrible  storm  which  swept  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  in  August,  1873,  and 
wrecked  hundreds  of  vefiselFi,  attained  its  greatest  force  around  the  island  of  Cape 
Breton  and  in  the  narrow  eeas  to  the  W. ,  towards  Prince  Edward^s  Island  and  the 
Magdalen  Island.  It  lasted  only  a  few  hours,  but  was  fearfully  destructive  in  its 
effects,  and  strewed  all  these  coasts  with  drowned  mariners  The  fono'<ving  spirited 
poem  is  inserted  here,  by  the  kind  permission  of  its  author,  Mr.  Edmund  C.  Sted- 


The  I<ord'8-Day  Gale. 


In  Gloucester  port  He  Ashing  craft,— 
Mnre  staunch  ond  trim  were  never  seen  : 

They  are  sharp  before  and  sheer  abaft. 
And  true  their  lines  the  masts  between. 

Alons  the  wharves  of  Gloucester  Town 

Their  fares  are  Iffrhtty  landed  down. 
And  the  laden  flakes  to  sunward  lean. 

VfeW  know  the  men  each  cruising-cround, 
And  where  the  cod  and  mackerel  be  ; 

Old  £astem  Point  the  schooners  round 
And  leave  Cape  Ann  on  the  larboard  lee  : 

Bound  are  the  planks,  the  hearts  arc  bold. 

That  hrave  December  s  surges  cold 
On  George's  shoals  in  the  outer  sea. 

And  some  must  sail  to  the  banks  far  north 
And  set  their  trawls  for  the  hungry  cod,- 

In  the  ghostly  foe  creep  back  and  forth 
By  shrouded  p'ths  no  foot  hath  trod  i 

IToon  the  crews  the  ice-winds  blow,  ^ 

The  bitter  sleet,  the  frozen  snow, — 
Their  lives  are  in  the  lumd  of  God  1 


T^      England  •  New  England ! 

j^eeds  sail  they  must,  so  brave  and  poor, 
Or  June  be  warm  or  Winter  storm. 

Lest  a  wolf  gnaw  through  the  rottage-door  i 
Three  weeks  at  home,  three  long  months  gone, 
While  the  patient  good-wives  sleep  alone, 

And  wake  to  hear  the  breakers  roar. 

The  Grand  Bank  gathers  in  its  dead,  — 
The  deep  sea-sand  is  their  winding-sheet ; 

Who  does  not  (leorgc  s  billows  dread 
That  dash  together  the  drif  tins  fleet  ? 

Who  does-not  long  to  hear,  in  Moy, 

The  pleasant  wash  of  Snint  Lawrence  Bay, 
The  fairest  ground  where  fiehemien  meet  ? 

There  the  west  wave  holds  the  red  sunlight 
Till  the  bells  at  home  are  rung  for  nine  : 

Short,  short  the  wutcb,  and  calm  ihe  night ; 
The  fiery  northern  streamers  shine ; 

The  eastern  sky  anon  is  gold. 

And  winds  from  piny  forests  old. 
Scatter  the  white  misU  off  the  brine. 


THE  LORD'3-DAY  OALK        R 


4i.     ^    I 


New  Enriand !  Neir  EnjrUnd  ! 

Thou  loveit  well  thine  ocean  main  I 
It  gpreadeth  ita  lock*  ainonv  thy  rocks  . 

And  long  otfainat  thy  heart  hath  lain ; 
Thy  •hipa  upon  its  Itosorn  ride 
And  ft-el  tlie  heaving  of  its  tide  ; 

To  thee  its  secret  speech  is  plain. 

Cape  Breton  and  Edward  Isle  between, 
In  strait  and  gulf  the  schounem  lay ; 

The  sea  was  uUnt  peace,  I  ween. 
The  night  before  that  August  day  ; 

Was  nev^r  a  (JSIouccster  skipper  there. 

But  thought  erelong,  with  a  right  good  fare. 
To  saillor  huine  from  Saint  Lawrence  Bay. 

New  England  !  New  England  I 
Thy  giant's  love  was  turned  to  hate  I 

The  winds  control  his  fickle  soul. 
And  in  his  wnnh  he  hath  no  mate. 

Thy  shores  his  nngry  scourges  tear. 

And  for  tliy  children  in  his  care 
The  sudden  tempests  lie  in  wait. 

The  East  Wind  gathered  nil  unknown,  — 
A  <hick  sea  riotid  his  course  before ; 

He  left  by  nij?l»t  the  frozen  zone 
And  smote  tlie  cliffs  of  i^abrador  ; 

He  lashed  the  coasts  on  cither  hand, 

And  betwixt  the  Cnpe  nnd  Newfoundland 
Into  tlie  Bay  liis  armies  pour. 

He  caught  our  helpless  cruisers  there 
As  a  gray  wolf  liarries  the  huddling  fold  ; 

A  sleet  -  a  darkness  -  filled  the  air, 
A  shuddering  wave  before  it  rolled : 

That  Lord  s-Day  morn  it  was  a  breeze,— 

At  noon,  a  blast  that  shook  the  seas,  — 
At  night  —  a  wind  of  Death  took  hold  I 

It  leaped  across  the  Breton  bar, 
A  death-wind  from  the  stormy  Eoat  I 

It  scarred  the  land,  and  whirled  afar 
The  sheltering  thatch  of  man  and  beast ; 

It  mingled  rick  and  roof  and  tree. 

And  like  a  besom  swept  the  sea. 
And  churned  the  wateis  into  yeaat 

From  Saint  Paul s  Light  to  Edwards  Isle 
A  thousand  craft  it  smote  nmain  ; 

And  some  agninst  it  strove  the  while. 
And  more  to  ninke  n  t>ort  were  fain : 

The  mackerel-gulls  flew  screaming  inst, 

And  the  stick  that  bent  to  tlie  noonday  blast 
Was  split  by  the  sundown  hurricane. 


O,  what  can  lire  on  th«  open  m*. 

Or  moored  in  port  the  guc  outnde? 
The  very  craft  tnat  at  anchor  be 

Are  dragRed  along  by  the  awoUen  tide  I 
The  great  storm-wave  came  rolling  weal, 
And  tossed  the  vessels  on  ita  crest : 

The  ancient  bounds  ita  might  defied  I 

The  ebb  to  check  it  had  no  power ; 

The  surf  run  up  to  an  untold  height  t 
It  rose,  nor  yielded,  hour  by  hour, 

A  night  and  day,  a  day  and  night  i 
Far  up  the  seething  shores  it  cast 
The  wreck  of  hull  and  spar  and  mast, 

The  strangled  crews,  —  a  wof  ul  sight  I 

There  were  twenty  and  more  of  Breton  sail 

Fast  anchored  on  one  moorinc-groand ; 
Each  lay  within  his  neighbor  s  hall, 
When  the  thick  of  the  teuipeat  closed  them 
round: 
All  sank  at  once  in  the  gaping  sea,  — 
Somewhere  on  the  shoals  their  corses  be, 
Tne  foundered  hulka,  and  the  seamen 
drowned. 

On  reef  and  bar  onr  schooners  drove 
Before  the  wind,  before  the  swell ; 

By  the  steep  sand-cliffs  their  ribs  were  store,  — 
Long,  long  their  crews  the  tale  shall  tell  I 

Of  tne  Gloucester  fleet  are  wrecke  threescorei 

Of  the  Province  sail  two  hundred  more 
Were  stranded  in  that  tempest  fell. 

The  bedtime  bells  in  Gloucester  Town 
That  Sabbath  night  rang  soft  and  clears 

The  sailors'  childrtn  laid  them  down, — 
Dear  Lord  I  their  sweet  prayers  couldst  thou 
hear  ? 

*T  is  said  that  gently  blew  the  winds : 

The  good -wives,  through  the  seaward  bUndit 
Looked  down  the  bay  and  had  no  fear. 

New  England  I  New  Ensland  I 

Thy  ports  their  dauntless  seamen  monm  t 
The  twin  capes  yearn  for  their  return 

Who  never  shall  be  thither  home  ; 
Their  orphans  whisper  as  they  meet ; 
The  homes  arc  dark  in  manv  a  strest. 

And  women  move  in  weeds  forlorn. 

And  wilt  thou  fail,  and  dost  thou  fear  t 
Ah,  no !  though  widows  cheeks  are  pale. 

The  lads  siiall  siiy :  '*  Another  rear. 
And  we  shnll  be  of  nge  to  sail !  " 

And  the  mothers'  hearts  shall  fill  with  pride. 

Though  tears  drop  fast  for  them  who  died 
When  the  fleet  was  wrecked  in  the  Lord'f 
Day  gale. 


"  The  island  beonme  as  Gaelic  as  the  most  Gaelic  part  of  Scotland.  It  cootinaes 
Fo  to  this  day.  Wlint  of  Gape  Breton  is  not  Highland  Scottish  is  Acadian  French 
The  old  allien  of  the  Middle  Ages  Hto  together  in  rmity  on  this  fair  outpost  of  the 
now  world.  The  Highland  immigmnts  had  a  hard  time  of  it  for  many  a  long  day. 
Thoy  were  poor,  unslcilled  in  agricnlture,  and  utterly  ignorant  of  woodcraft  or 
forest  life.  But  their  morale  was  superb.  Lilce  men  they  set  the  stout  heart  to 
the  stne  brae.  Hardy,  patient,  ftrugal,  God-fearing,  they  endured  hardships  th  t 
would  have  killed  ordinary  settlers.  Gradually  and  painhilly  they  learned  to  wield 
the  axe,  and  to  hold  the  plough  instead  of  the  clumsy  hoe  and  spade  of  their  native 
isles.  The  likes  and  streams,  the  Bras  d'Or  and  the  rough  Atlantic,  gave  generous 
Ftipplirts  of  food.  Their  Ing-hutg  in  the  green  woods  were  their  own  And  their 
children  have  exchanged  the  primitive  shanty  for  comfortable  fVame  houses,  and 
the  few  sheep  their  fathers  owned  for  fat  flocks  and  hardy  horses  that  they  rear  for 
t'lo  Svflney  and  Newfoundland  markets.  Take  up  your  summer  quarters  ou  the 
Gut  of  Ganso,  or  at  St.  Peter's,  Badderk,  Whycocomagh,  Sydney,  Lonisbourg,  Mar- 
Itaree,  or  any  other  local  centre,  and  though  you  may  not  get '  all  the  comforts  of 
t'le  Sautmarket,,'  you  will  get  what  is  better.  The  more  Gnelic  you  can  speak  the 
less  money  you  need  to  have  iu  your  purse."    (Bsv.  Oboros  M.  iGlKANT.) 


! '  V 


PRINCE  EDWARD   ISLAND. 


ill 


PRnrcE  Edward  Island  is  situated  in  the  southern  portion  of  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  boanded  on  the  S.  by  the  Northumberland 
Strait.  It  is  30  M.  from  Cape  Breton  Island,  15  M.  from  Nova  Scotia,  and 
0  M.  from  New  Brunswick,  and  is  surrounded  by  deep  and  navigable 
waters.  The  extreme  length  is  130  M.;  the  extreme  breadth.  "•  M.;  and 
the  area  is  2,133  square  miles.  The  surface  is  low  or  gently  undulating, 
with  small  hills  in  the  central  parts,  and  the  soil  is  mostly  derived  from 
red  sandstone,  and  is  very  fertile.  The  air  is  balmy  and  bracing,  less 
foggy  than  the  adjacent  shores,  and  milder  than  that  of  New  Brunswick. 
The  most  abundant  trees  arj  the  evergreens,  besides  which  the  oak  and 
maple  are  fouud.  The  shores  are  deeply  indented  by  harbors,  of  which 
those  toward  the  Gulf  are  obstructed  by  sand,  but  those  on  the  S.  are  com- 
modious and  accessible. 

The  island  is  divided  into  3  counties,  including  13  districts,  cr  67  town- 
ships and  3  royalties.  It  has  108,891  inhabitants,  of  whom  47,115  are  Cath- 
olics, 33,835  are  Presbyterians,  13,485  Methodists,  and  7,205  Episcopalians. 
The  majority  of  the  people  are  of  Scottish  origin,  and  there  are  300-400 
Micmac  Indians.  The  local  government  is  conducted  by  the  Executive 
Council  (9  members)  and  the  House  of  Assembly  (30  members),  and  the 
political  parties  which  form  about  the  petty  questions  of  the  island  dis- 
play a  partisan  acrimony  and  employ  a  caustic  journalism  such  as  are 
not  seen  even  in  the  United  States.  The  Province  is  provided  with  gov- 
ernor and  cabinet,  supreme  and  vice-admiralt}'  courts,  and  a  public 
domain,  on  the  same  plan  as  those  of  the  great  Provinces  of  Quebec  and 
Ontario.  The  land  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  nearly  all  the 
population  is  rural.  Manufactories  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist,  but  the 
fisheries  are  carried  on  to  some  extent,  and  shipbuilding  receives  con- 
siderable attention.  The  roads  are  good  in  dry  weather,  and  lead  through 
quiet  rural  scenery,  broken  every  few  miles  by  the  blue  expanses  of  the 
broad  bays  and  salt-water  lagoons.  The  chief  exports  consist  of  oats, 
barley,  hay,  potatoes,  fish,  live-stock,  and  egg?. 

It  has  been  claimed  that  Prince  Edward  Island  was  discovered  bv 
Cabot,  in  1497,  but  there  is  no  certainty  on  this  subject.  It  was  visited 
by  Champlain  on  St.  John's  Day,  1608,  and  received  from  him  the  name 
of  VItU  St,  Jean.    The  whole  country  was  then  covered  with  stately  for- 


PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 


178 


«st9,  abounding  in  game,  and  was  inhabited  by  a  clan  of  the  Micmao 
Indinns,  who  called  it  Epayguit  (**  Anchored  on  the  Wave").  It  was 
included  in  the  broad  domain  of  Acadia,  over  which  France  and  England 
wafted  such  diRustrous  wars,  but  was  not  settled  for  over  two  centuries 
after  Cubot's  vo,vv\go.  In  1663  this  and  the  Magdalen  Islands  were  granted 
to  M.  Doublet,  a  captain  in  the  French  navy,  who  erected  summer  fishings 
stations  here,  but  abandoned  them  every  autumn.  After  England  had 
wrested  Nova  Scotia  from  France,  a  few  Acadians  crossed  over  to  L*Isle 
St.  Jean  and  became  its  first  settlers.  In  1728  there  were  60  French  fam- 
ilies here;  in  1745  there  were  about  800  inhabitants;  and  during  her  death- 
struggles  with  the  Anglo-American  armies,  the  Province  of  Quebec  drew 
lHr<2;e  supplies  of  grain  and  cattle  from  *he$e  shores.  The  capital  was  at 
Port  la  Joie  (near  Charlottetown),  where  there  was  a  battery  and  garrison, 
dependent  on  the  military  commandant  of  Louisbourg.  It  is  claimed  by 
Haliburton  that  the  island  was  captured  by  the  New-Englanders  in  1746, 
but  it  is  known  only  that  Gen.  Pepperell  ordered  400  of  his  soldiers  to  sail 
from  Louisbourg  and  occupy  L'Isle  St.  Jean.  It  does  not  appear  whether 
or  not  thi!)  was  done.  After  the  expulsion  of  the  Acadians  from  Nova 
Scotia,  many  of  them  fled  to  this  island,  which  contained  4,100  inhab- 
itants in  1768.  ^n  that  year  Lord  RoUo  took  possession  of  it,  according  to 
the  capitulation  of  Louisbourg,  with  a  small  military  force. 

In  1763  the  island  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of  Fon- 
ta'nebleau,  and  became  a  part  of  the  Province  of  Nova  Scotia.  It  was 
surveyed  in  1764  -  6,  and  was  granted  to  about  100  English  and  Scottish 
gentlemen,  who  were  to  pay  qultrents  and  to  settle  their  lands  with  1  per- 
son to  every  200  acres,  within  10  years,  the  colonists  to  be  Protestants 
from  the  continent  of  Europe.  When  the  10  years  had  elapsed,  many  of 
the  estates  were  forfeited  or  sold  to  other  parties,  and  only  19  of  the  67 
townships  had  any  settlers.  In  1770  the  island  was  made  a  separate  Prov- 
ince, and  in  1773  tlid  first  House  of  Assembly  met.  In  1776  the  Americans 
captured  the  capital,  and  in  1778  four  CanacVan  companies  wore  stationed 
there.  In  1780  the  Province  was  called  New  Ireland,  but  the  King  vetoed 
this  name,  and  in  1800  it  was  entitled  Prince  Edward  Island,  in  honor  of 
His  Royal  Highness  Prince  Edward,  Duke  of  Kent,  then  Commander  of  the 
Forces  in  British  North  America  (afterwards  father  of  Queen  Victoria).  In 
1803  the  Earl  of  Selkirk  sent  over  800  Highlanders,  and  other  proprietors  set- 
tled colonies  on  their  domains.  The  complicated  questions  arising  from  tho 
old  proprietary  estates  have  engrossed  most  of  the  legislation  of  the  island 
for  70  years,  and  are  being  slowly  settled  by  the  purchase  of  the  lands  by 
the  government  Prince  Edward  Island  long  refused  to  enter  the  Dominion 
of  Canada,  but  yielded  at  last  on  very  favorable  terms,  one  of  the  condi- 
tions being  that  the  Confederacy  should  build  a  railway  throughout  the 
Province. 


174       Houte  48, 


CAPE  TRAVERSE. 


^     I 


'!  !   \ 


43.   Shediac  to  Snmmenide  and  Charlottetown.  —  The 
Northumberland  Strait 

St.  John  to  Shediac,  see  Routes  14  and  16. 

It  is  probable  that  steamers  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Company 
"will  leave  Shediac  (Point  du  Cliene)  every  day  during  the  summer  season, 
on  arrival  of  the  morning  train  from  St.  John.  The  fare  from  Shediac  to 
Summerside  is  $1.50  ;  and  from  Sumraerside  to  Charlottetown,  $  1.60. 

The  distance  from  Shediac  to  Summerside  is  35  M.  Soon  after  leaving 
the  wharf  at  Point  du  Chene  the  steamer  passes  out  through  Shediac  Bay, 
and  enters  the  Northumberland  Strait.  The  course  is  a  little  N.  of  E.,  and 
the  first  point  of  the  island  to  come  into  sight  is  Cape  Egmont,  with  its 
lines  of  low  sandstone  cliffs.  The  traveller  now  sees  the  significance 
of  the  ancient  Indian  name  of  this  sea-girt  land,  Epayguit^  signifying 
"Anchored  on  the  Wave." 

After  passing  Cape  Egmont  on  the  1.,  the  steamer  enters  Bedeque,  or 
Halifax,  Bay,  and  runs  in  toward  the  low  shores  on  the  N.  E.  After  pass- 
ing Indian  Point  and  Island  it  enters  the  harbor  of  Sumraerside,  with  the 
estuary  of  the  Dunk  River  on  the  r. 

Sammerside,  see  page  179. 

Upon  leaving  Summerside  the  steamer  passes  Indian  Point  on  the  1., 
and,  after  running  by  Salutation  Point,  enters  the  Northumberland  Strait. 
The  course  is  nearly  S.  E.  9  M.  from  Salutation  Point  is  Cape  Traverse, 
and  on  the  S.  shore  is  Cape  Tormentine.  At  this,  the  narrowest  part  of 
the  strait,  the  mails  are  carried  across  by  ice-boats  in  winter,  and  passen- 
gers are  transported  by  the  same  perilous  route.  A  submarine  cable  un- 
derlies the  strait  at  this  point.  It  is  20  M.  from  Cape  Traverse  to  St. 
Peter's  Island,  and  along  the  island  shores  are  the  villages  of  Tryon,  Cra- 
paud,  De  Sable,  and  Bonshaw.  On  passing  St.  Peter's  Island,  the  steamer 
enters  Hillsborough  Bay  and  runs  N.,  with  Orwell  and  Pownal  Bays  open- 
ing on  the  E. 

'*  Charlottetown  Harbor,  at  its  entrance  between  the  cliffs  of  Blockhouse 
and  Sea-Trout  Point,  is  450  fathoms  wide,  and,  in  sailing  in,  York  River 
running  northward,  the  Hillsborough  River  eastwardly,  and  the  Elliot  to  the 
westward,  surround  the  visitor  with  beautiful  effects,  and  as  he  glides 
smoothly  over  their  confluence,  or  what  is  called  the  Three  Tides,  he  will 
feel,  perhaps,  that  he  has  seen  for  the  first  time,  should  a  setting  sun  gild 
the  horizon,  a  combination  of  color  and  effect  which  no  artist  could  ade- 
quately represent."  ^      , 

Charlottetown,  see  page  178.  . 


~rf>  Jiv  J  li  r  ■>,  .:; 


CHARLOTTETOWN. 


JiouU44.     175 


44.   Fioton  to  Prince  Edward  Island. 

To  Charlottetown. 

The  steamships  of  the  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Company  leave  Pictou 
for  Charlottetown  every  Monday,  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Saturday,  on 
arrival  of  morning  train  from  Halifax.  Fare,  $  2.  The  distance  is  a  little 
over  50  M. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  safe  and  pleasant  harbor  of  Pictou,  the  steamer 
approaches  Pictou  Island,  a  hilly  and  well-wooded  land  4  M.  long,  with  a 
lighthouse  and  some  farms.  On  the  W.  is  Caribou  Island,  consisting  of 
several  islets  united  by  sand-bars,  and  guarded  by  a  lighthouse.  There  are 
pleasant  views  of  the  receding  highlands  of  Nova  Scotia;  and  the  vessel 
moves  easily  through  the  quiet  waters  of  the  Northumberland  Strait. 
''  Prince  Edward  Island,  as  we  approached  it,  had  a  pleasing  aspect,  and 
none  of  that  remote  friendlessness  which  its  appearance  on  the  map  con> 
veys  to  one;  a  warm  and  sandy  land,  in  a  genial  climate,  without  fogs, 
we  are  informed." 

After  passing  (on  the  r.)  the  long  low  Point  Prim,  the  steamer  sweeps 
around  to  the  N.  into  Hillsborough  Bay,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Char- 
lottetown. 


Pictou  to  Georgetown. 

The  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Company's  steamships  leave  Pictou  for 
Georgetown  every  Tuesday  and  Friday;  leaving  Georgetown  for  Pictou 
on  the  same  days.  Fare  from  port  to  port,  $  2.  The  distance  is  nearly 
70  M. 

The  chief  incidents  of  this  short  voyage  are  the  views  of  Pictou  Island; 
the  approach  to  Cape  Bear,  the  S.  E.  point  of  P.  E.  Island,  backed  by 
hills  200  ft.  high;  and  the  ascent  of  the  noble  sheet  of  Cardigan  Bay,  be- 
tween Boughton  and  Panmure  Islands. 

Georgetown,  see  page  181. 


45.   Charlottetown. 

Arrival.  — The  steamer  passes  between  St.  Peter's  Island  (1.)  and  Governor's 
Island  (r.)  and  ascends  Hillsborough  Bay  for  about  6  M.  It  then  passes  between 
Blockhouse  Point  (on  the  1.,  with  a  lighthouse)  and  Sea-Trout  Point,  and  enters  the 
harbor  of  Charlottetown,  where  there  are  7-10  fathoms  of  water.  Powerful  cur- 
rents are  formed  here  by  the  tides  of  the  Hillsborough,  York,  and  Elliot  Rivers  (or 
£a8t,  North,  and  West  Rivers),  which  empty  into  this  basin. 

Hotels.  —  St.  Lawrence  Hotel,  Water  St.  ;  Revere  House,  near  the  steamboat 
wharf ;  Rankin  House.  The  hotels  of  Charlottetown  are  only  boardims-housea  of 
average  grade,  and  will  hardly  satisfy  American  gentlemen.  Attempts  are  being 
made  to  erect  a  large  summer-hotel  here,  though  there  seems  to  be  but  little  to 
warrant  such  an  enterprise. 

SteamshipB.— The  Worcester  or  the  Carroll  leaves  Charlottetown  every 
Thursday  for  the  Strait  of  Canso,  Ualifiiz,  and  Boston.  Fares  to  Halifax,  saloon 
itate-room,  96;  cabin  state-room,  96 »  cabin,  94;  Halifox  to  Boston,  99,  97.£0, 


:i, 


CHARLOTTETOWN. 


and  $  6.50.  The  P.  E.  I.  Steam  Navigation  Company's  vessels  St.  Lawrence  and 
Princess  of  Wales  run  between  Charlottetown,  Shediac,  and  Pictou  (see  Routes  48 
and  44).  The  Heather  Bell:  plies  about  the  bay  and  up  the  Hillsborough  River, 
making  also  trips  to  Crapaud  and  Orwell.  She  runs  up  the  Uillsborougli  River 
to  Mount  Stewart  on  Monday,  Tuesday,  Friday  and  Saturday;  to  Crapaud  on 
Wednesday ;  and  to  Orwell  on  Wednesday,  Thursday  and  Friday  (time-table  of 
1874). 

Charlottetown,  the  capital  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  is  situated  on 
gently  rising  ground  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Hillsborough  River,  and  fronts 
on  a  good  harbor.  It  has  about  12,000  inhabitants,  with  2  daily  and  4 
weekly  newspapers,  4  banks,  and  10  churches.  The  plan  of  the  city  is 
very  regular,  and  consists  of  0  streets,  each  100  ft.  wide,  running  E.  and 
W.,  intersecting  9  streets  running  from  N.  to  S.     There  are  4  squares. 

'I'he  Colonial  Building  is  the  finest  structure  in  the  city.  It  stands 
on  Queen's  Square,  at  the  head  of  Great  George  St.,  and  is  built  of  Nova- 
Scotia  freestone  (at  a  cost  of  S  85,000).  The  halls  of  the  Legislative  Coun- 
cil and  House  of  Assembly  are  on  the  second  floor,  and  are  handsomely 
furnished  and  adorned  with  portraits  of  the  statesmen  of  Prince  Edward 
Island.  On  ^he  same  floor  is  the  Colonial  Library,  containing  a  good  col- 
lection of  books  relating  to  the  history,  laws,  and  physical  characteristics 
of  Canada  and  the  British  Empire.  A  pleasant  view  of  the  city  and  the 
rivers  may  be  obtained  from  the  cupola  of  the  building.  The  Post  Office 
is  also  on  Queen's  Square,  and  is  a  new  and  handsome  stone  building. 
Just  beyond  is  the  Market  House,  a  great  wooden  structure  covered  with 
shingles.  The  principal  shops  of  Charlottetown  are  about  Queen's  Square, 
and  offer  but  little  to  bo  desii-ed.  The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St. 
Dunstan  is  a  spacious  wooden  edifice  on  Great  George  St.,  near  the  Square. 

The  extensive  Convent  of  Notre  Dame  is  on  Hillsborough  Square,  and 
occupies  a  modern  brick  building.  The  Prince  of  Wales  College  and  the 
Normal  School  are  on  Weymouth  St.,  in  this  vicinity. 

The  old  barracks  and  drill-shed  are  W.  of  Queen's  Square,  between 
Pownal  and  Sydney  Sts.,  and  are  fronted  by  a  parade-ground.  The  Gov- 
ernment House  is  on  a  point  of  land  W.  of  the  city,  and  overlooks  the 
harbor. 

In  1748  the  government  of  the  island  was  vested  in  civil  and  military  officers, 
'Whose  residence  was  established  at  the  W.  entrance  to  the  harbor  of  Port  la  Joie 
(Charlottetown),  where  they  had  a  baltcry  and  a  small  garrison.  It  i.^  said  that  the 
first  French  sailors  who  entered  the  inner  harbor  were  ^o  pleased  with  its  tranquil 
beauty  that  they  named  it  Port  la  Joie.  There  were  no  houses  on  the  site  of  the 
city  in  1762.  The  harbor  was  held  by  three  British  vigates  in  1746,  but  was  ravaged 
by  200  Micmacs  under  the  French  Ensign  Montesson.  All  the  English  found  on  the 
Shore  were  captured,  tut  tlie  Indians  refused  to  attack  the  war-vesEols. 

In  17G8  Moriis  and  Deschauips  arrived  here  with  a  small  colory,  and  erected  huts. 
They  laid  out  the  streets  of  Charlottetown,  which  was  soon  es'ablished  as  the  capi- 
tal of  the  island.  In  1775  it  was  captured  by  two  American  A'ar-ve^sels,  which  hud 
been  cruising  in  the  Gulf  to  carry  otf  the  Quebec  storeships.  The  sailors  plundered 
the  town,  and  led  away  several  local  dignitaries  as  prisoners,  but  Washington  lib- 
erated the  captives,  and  reprimanded  the  predatory  cruisers. 

Charlottetown  "  has  the  appearance  of  a  place  from  which  something  has  de- 
parted; a  vroodeu  town,  with  wide  and  vacant  streets,  and  the  air  of  waiting  fur 


ENVIRONS  OF  CHARLOTTETO'WN.    BotUe  46.      177 


!t.  Lavorence  and 
a  (see  Routes  48 
Llsborough  River, 
llsborough  River 
;  to  Crapaud  on 
ly  (time-table  of 

i,  is  situated  on 
iver,  and  fmuts 
I  2  daily  and  4 
a  of  the  city  i3 
running  E.  and 
re  4  squares, 
city.     It  stands 
is  built  of  Nova- 
Legislative  Coun- 
are  handsomely 
if  Prince  Edward 
aining  a  good  col- 
lal  characteristics 
f  the  city  and  the 
.    The  Post  Office 
ne  stone  building, 
•ture  covered  with 
it  Queen's  Square, 
ic  Cathedral  of  St. 
;.,  near  the  Square, 
rough  Square,  and 
es  College  and  the 

s  Square,  between 

ground.    The  (?o»- 

and  overlooks  the 


and  military  offlcerfl, 

arbor  of  Port  la  Joie 

,n.    It  U  said  that  the 

msed  with  its  trauquil 

ises  on  the  site  of  the 

1746,  but  was  ruvaged 

English  found  on  the 

ar-vePE<>\8,       ,  ^  .     . 
01  y,  and  erected  nuts. 

s'ttblished  as  the  capl- 

war-ve^sels,  which  hud 

The  sailors  plundered 

1,  but  Washington  Ub- 

Ich  something  has  de- 
the  air  of  waiting  iw 


something. ....  That  the  prodaetive  island,  with  its  system  of  firee  schools,  is  about 
to  enter  upon  a  prosperous  career,  and  that  Oharlottetown  is  soon  to  become  a  place 
of  great  activity,  no  one  who  converses  with  the  natives  can  doubt,  and  I  think 
that  even  now  no  traveller  will  regret  spending  an  hour  or  two  there ;  but  it  b 
necessary  to  say  that  the  rosy  inducements  for  tourists  to  spend  the  sununer  there 
exist  only  in  the  guide-books.*' 

Environs  of  Charhttetown. 

The  Wesleyan  College  is  on  an  eminence  back  of  the  city,  and  overlooks 
the  harbor  and  the  rivers.  It  has  10  instructors  and  about  300  students. 
St.  Dunstan's  College  is  a  Catholic  institution,  which  occupies  the  crest 
of  a  hill  1  M.  from  the  city,  and  has  4  professors.  There  are  several  pretty 
villas  in  the  vicinity  of  Charlottetown;  and  the  roads  are  very  good  during 
dry  weather.  Some  travellers  have  greatly  admired  the  rural  scenery  of  . 
these  suburban  roads,  but  others  have  reported  them  as  tame  and  uninter- 
esting. The  same  conflict  of  opinion  exists  with  regard  to  the  scenery  of 
the  whole  island. 

Soutkport  is  a  village  opposite  Charlottetown,  in  a  pretty  situation  on  the 
S.  shore  of  the  Hillsborough  River.  It  is  reached  by  a  steam  ferry-boat, 
which  crosses  every  hour.  3  M.  from  this  place  is  the  eminence  called 
Tea  Hilly  whence  a  pleasing  view  of  the  parish  and  the  bay  may  be  ob- 
tained. A  few  miles  beyond  is  the  village  of  Pownal,  at  the  head  of 
Fownal  Bay,  and  in  a  region  prolific  in  oats  and  potatoes. 

46.    Charlottetown  to  Suinmerside  and  Tignish.— The 
Western  Shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island. 

This  region  is  traversed  by  the  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway,  a  narrow-gauge 
road  which  has  recently  been  built  by  the  Canadian  government.  This  line  was 
opened  late  in  1874. 

Trains  run  from  Charlottetown  to  Summerside  in  5  hrs. ;  to  Tigninh  in  10  hrs. 

Stations.  —Charlottetown  to  St.  Dunstan's,  2 ;  Cemetery,  4 ;  Royalty  Junction, 
6:  Winsloe,  6};  Milton,  10;  Colvllle,  13 J;  N.  Wiltshire,  17;  Hunter  River,  21; 
Frederitjton.  25  ;  Elliotts,  27J ;  Breadalbane,  29J ;  County  Lane,  32 ;  Freetown,  86^ ; 
Blueshank,  89 ;  Kenslnf^ton,  41 ;  New  Annan,  42;  Summerside,.  49;  Misconche, 
64;  Wellington,  61:  Richmond,  65^:  Northam,68;  Port  Hill,  71;  EUerslie,  72J; 
Conway,  77  :  Portage,  80 ;  Brae.  86  ;  O'Lenry,  89 :  Bloomfleld,  95 ;  Elmsdale,  100 } 
Alberton,  104 ;  Montrose,  108  ;  De  Blois,  112^ ;  Tigniah,  117. 

After  leaving  the  commodious  station-building,  in  the  E.  part  of  Char- 
lottetown, the  train  sweeps  around  the  city,  turning  to  the  N.  from  the 
bank  of  the  Hillsborough  River.  The  suburban  villas  are  soon  passed,  and 
the  line  traverses  a  level  country  to  Royalty  Junction,  where  the  tracks 
to  Sour  is  and  Georgetown  (see  Route  47)  diverge  to  the  N.  E.  The  train 
now  enters  the  main  line,  and  runs  W.  through  a  fertile  farming  country, 
—  "a  sort  of  Arcadia,  in  which  Shenstone  would  have  delighted."  The 
hamlets  are  small  and  the  dwellings  are  very  plain,  but  it  is  expected  that 
the  stations  of  the  new  railway  will  become  the  nuclei  of  future  villages. 
The  train  soon  crosses  the  head-waters  of  the  York  River,  and  reaches  N» 
Wiltshire,  beyond  which  is  a  line  of  low  hills,  extending  across  the  island. 
4  M.  beyond  this  point  is  the  station  of  Hunter  i2tver,  whence  a  much- 
8*  L 


178     R(mte46, 


EUSTICO. 


travelled  road  leads  to  the  N.  to  New  Glasgow  and  Rustico,  locally  famous 
for  pleasant  marine  scenery. 

Bustico  is  a  quiet  marine  settlement,  with  two  churches  and  a  bank, 
and  about  300  inhabitants.  It  is  near  Grand  Rustico  Harbor,  and  is  one 
of  the  chief  fishing  stations  of  the  N.  shore.  The  original  settlers  were 
Acadians  (in  the  year  1710),  many  of  whose  descendants  remain  in  the 
township,  and  are  peaceful  and  unprogressive  citizens.  The  Ocean  Hou$e 
(40  guests)  is  a  small  summer  hotel  near  the  sand-hills  of  the  beach;  and 
the  facilities  for  boating,  bathing,  fishing,  and  gunning  are  said  to  be  ex- 
cellent. The  great  fleets  of  the  Gulf  fishermen  are  sometimes  seen  off 
these  shores.  There  is  a  pleasant  drive  up  the  Hunter  River  to  New  Glas- 
gow (Rockem's  inn),  which  was  settled  by  men  of  Glasgow,  under  Alex- 
'ander  Cormack,  the  Newfoundland  explorer,  in  1829.  The  Hunter  River 
afifords  good  trouting. 

Grand  Rustico  Harbor  is  rendered  unsafe  by  shifting  bars  of  sand,  and 
it  was  off  this  port  that  the  Government  steamer  Rose  was  lost.  On  the 
coast  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  hamlets  of  N.  Rustico  and  Cavendish,  the  lat- 
ter of  which  is  a  Presbyterian  farming  settlement  of  200  inhabitants. 

Kensington  station  is  about  41 M.  from  Charlottetown,  and  is  near  the  petty 
hamlet  of  the  same  name.  To  the  N.  E.  is  Grenville  Harbor,  with  the  estu- 
aries of  three  rivers,  the  chir^  of  which  is  the  Stanley.  There  are  several 
maritime  hamlets  on  these  shores,  and  on  the  W.  is  New  London,  a  neat 
Scottish  settlement  with  two  churches.  A  road  also  leads  N.  W.  from 
Kensington  to  Princetown,  a  village  of  400  inhabitants,  situated  on  the 
peninsula  between  Richmond  Bay,  March  Water,  and  the  Darnley  Basin. 
This  town  was  laid  out  (in  1766)  with  broad  streets  and  squares,  and  was 
intended  for  the  metropolis  of  the  N.  coast,  but  the  expectations  of  the 
government  were  never  realized,  and  "  the  ploughshare  still  turns  up  the 
8cd,  where  it  was  intended  the  busy  thoroughfare  should  be."  Malpeque 
Harbor  is  the  finest  and  safest  on  the  N.  shore  of  1:  lince  Edward  Island. 
A  few  miles  E.  are  the  lofty  sandstone  cliffs  of  Cape  Tryon,  near  New  Lon- 
don harbor.  Princetown  fronts  on  Richmond  Bay,  a  capacious  haven 
which  runs  v  to  the  S.  W.  for  10  M.,  and  contains  7  islands.  Travellers 
have  praised  the  beauty  of  the  road  from  Princetown  to  Port  Hill,  which 
affords  many  pleasant  views  over  the  bay. 

Beyond  Kensington  the  train  runs  S.  W.  across  the  rural  plains  of  St. 
David's  Parish,  and  passes  out  on  the  isthmus  between  Richmond  Bay  and 
Bedeque  Bay,  where  the  island  is  only  3  -  4  M.  wide.  9  M.  from  Kensing- 
ton it  reaches  Summerside. 

Summerside  (two  inns)  is  situated  on  the  N.  side  of  Bedeque  Harbor,  and 
is  a  town  of  about  3,000  inhabitants,  with  8  churches,  5  schools,  2  weekly 
newspapers,  and  2  banks.  It  is  the  port  wh  ance  most  of  the  products  of 
the  W.  part  of  the  island  are  sent  out,  and  has  grown  rapidly  of  late  years. 
The  chief  exports  in  1882  were  600,000  bushels  of  oats,  110,000  bushels  of 


^»L.f*« 


8UMMERSIDE. 


Route  46.      179 


potatoes,  10,800  bushels  of  barley,  86,450  dozen  of  eggs,  and  4,837  barrels 
of  the  famous  Bedeque  oysters.  The  wharves  are  long,  in  order  to  reach 
the  deep  water  of  the  channel;  and  the  houses  of  the  town  are  mostly 
small  wooden  buildings.    Considerable  shipbuilding  is  done  here. 

The  *  Island  Park  Hotel  is  a  summer  resort  on  an  islet  off  the  harbor, 
and  is  patronized  by  American  tourists.  There  are  accommodations  for 
fishing  and  bathing,  and  a  steam  ferry-boat  plies  betwreen  the  island  and 
the  town.  The  hotel  commands  a  pleasant  view  of  the  Bedeque  shores 
and  the  Strait  of  Northumberland. 

"This  little  seaport  ia  intended  to  be  attractive,  and  it  would  give  these  travellem 
great  pleasure  to  describe  it  if  they  could  at  all  remember  how  it  looks.  But  it  is  a 
place  that,  like  some  faces,  makes  no  sort  of  impression  on  the  memory.  We  went 
ashore  there,  and  tried  to  take  an  interest  in  the  shipbuilding,  and  in  the  littla 
oysters  'rhich  the  harbor  yields ;  but  whether  we  did  take  an  interest  or  not  has 
passed  out  of  memory.  A  small,  unpicturesque,  wooden  town,  in  the  languor  of  a 
provincial  summer ;  why  should  we  pretend  an  intereist  in  it  which  we  did  not  feel  ? 
It  did  not  disturb  our  reposeful  frame  of  mind,  nor  much  interfere  with  our  ecgoy- 
ment  of  the  day."    ( WARN£a's  Baddeck.) 


On  leaving  Summerside,  the  train  runs  out  to  the  W.,  over  a  level  region. 
To  the  N.  is  the  hamlet  of  St.  Eleanors  (Ellison's  Hotel),  a  place  of  400  in- 
habitants, situated  in  a  rich  farming  country.  It  enjoys  the  honor  of  being 
the  shire-town  of  Prince  County,  and  is  about  2^  M.  from  Summerside. 
3  M.  from  St.  Eleanors  is  the  rural  village  of  Miscouche,  inhabited  by 
French  Acadians.  Wellington  (Western  Hotel)  is  a  small  hamlet  and 
station  12  M.  beyond  Summerside,  near  the  head  of  the  Grand  River,  which 
flows  into  Richmond  Bay.  The  Acadian  settlements  about  Cape  Egmont 
are  a  few  miles  to  the  S.  W. 

The  line  passes  on  to  Port  Ilillj  a  prosperous  shipbuilding  village  on 
Richmond  Bay.  Near  this  place  is  Lennox  Island^  which  is  reserved  for 
the  Micmac  Indians,  and  is  inhabited  by  about  150  persons  of  that  tribe. 
Between  the  bay  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  George  Island,  which  is 
composed  of  trap-rock  and  amygdaloid,  and  is  regarded  as  a  curious  geo- 
logical intrusion  in  the  red  sandstone  formations  of  the  Prince-Edward 
shores.  The  train  runs  N.  W.  over  the  isthmus  between  the  Cavendish 
Inlet  and  the  Percival  and  Enmore  Rivers,  and  soon  enters  the  North 
Parish.  This  region  is  thinly  inhabited  by  French  and  British  settlers, 
and  is  one  of  the  least  prosperous  portions  of  the  island.  The  line  passes 
near  Braey  a  settlement  of  300  Scotch  farmers,  near  the  trout-abounding 
streams  of  the  Parish  of  Halifax.  To  the  S.  W.  is  the  sequestered  marine 
hamlet  of  West  Pointy  where  a  town  has  been  laid  out  and  preparations 
made  for  a  commerce  which  does  not  come.  The  coast  trends  N.  by  E. 
6  M.  from  West  Point  to  Cape  Wolfe,  whence  it  runs  N.  E.  by  E.  27  M.  to 
North  Point,  in  a  long  unbroken  strand  of  red  clay  and  sandstone  cliffs. 

Alberton  (two  inns)  is  one  of  the  northern  termmi  of  the  railway,  and 
is  a  prosperous  village  of  800  inhabitants,  with  five  ohorohes  and  an 


180      MauU  47. 


TIGNISH. 


American  consular  agency.  It  is  sitnated  on  Gascumpec^  harbor,  and  is 
engaged  in  shipbuilding  and  the  fisheries.  The  American  fishing-schooners 
often  take  refuge  in  this  harbor.  The  neighboring  rural  districts  are  fer- 
tile and  thickly  populated,  and  produce  large  quantities  of  oats  and  pota- 
toes. This  town  was  the  birthplace  of  the  Gordons,  the  heroic  mission- 
aries at  Eromanga,  one  of  whom  was  martyred  in  1861,  the  other  in 
1872.  S.  of  Alberton  is  Holland  Bay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  him- 
self by  Major  Holland,. the  English  surveyor  of  the  island;  and  6-8  M.  N. 
is  Cape  Kildare. 

Tignish  (Ryan^s  Hotel)  is  the  extreme  northern  point  reached  by  the 
railway,  and  is  117  M.  from  Charlottetown.  It  has  about  200  inhabitants, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  important  fishing-stations  on  the  island.  The  in- 
habitants are  mostly  French  and  Scotch,  and  support  a  Catholic  church 
and  convent.  There  are  several  other  French  villages  in  this  vicinity, 
concerning  which  the  historian  of  the  island  says:  ''They  are  all  old  set- 
tlements. The  nationality  of  the  people  has  kept  them  together,  until 
their  farms  are  subdivided  into  small  portions,  and  their  dwellings  are 
numerous  and  close  together.  Few  are  skilful  farmers.  Many  prefer  to 
obtain  a  living  by  fishing  rather  than  farming.  They  are  simple  and  in- 
ofiensive  in  their  manners ;  quiet  and  uncomplaining,  and  easily  satisfied. 
The  peculiarities  of  their  race  are  not  yet  extinct;  and  under  generous 
treatment  and  superior  training,  the  national  enterprise  and  energy,  polite- 
ness and  refinement,  would  gi'adually  be  restored."  » 

North  Point  is  about  8  M.  N.  of  Tignish,  and  is  reached  by  a  sea-view- 
ing road  among  the  sand-dunes.  It  has  a  lighthouse,  which  sustains  a 
powerful  light,  and  is  an  important  point  in  the  navigation  of  the  Gulf. 

47.  Charlottetown  to  Georgetown. 

By  the  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway. 

Stations.  —  Charlottetown ;  Royalty  Junction,  6  M. ;  Mount  Stewart,  22 ;  Car- 
digan, 40 ;  Georgetown,  46.  , 

Beyond  Royalty  Junction  the  train  diverges  to  the  N-  F-,  and  follows  the 
course  of  the  Hillsborough  River,  though  generally  at  some  distance  from 
the  shore.  The  banks  of  this  stream  are  the  most  favored  part  of  that 
prosperous  land  of  which  Dr.  Cuyler  says:  "It  is  one  rich,  rolling,  arable 
farm,  from  Cape  East  clear  up  to  Cape  North."  As  early  as  1768  there  were 
2,000  French  colonists  about  this  river.  The  Hillsborough  is  30  M.  long, 
and  the  tide  ascends  for  20  M.  Much  produce  is  shipped  from  these  shores 
during  the  autumnal  months.  About  8  M.  beyond  the  Junction  the  line 
crosses  French  Fort  Creek,  on  whose  banks  the  French  troops  erected  a 
fortification  to  protect  the  short  portage  (1^  M.)  across  the  island,  from 
the  river  to  Tracadie  Harbor.    Here  the  military  domination  was  surren- 

1  Oeuewnpee,  an  Indian  word,  meaning  **  Flowing  thiongh  Saad." 


GEORGETOWN. 


JtouU  47,      181 


dered  to  the  British  expeditionary  forces.  To  the  N.  W.  Kre  the  Gaelic 
villages  of  Covehead  and  Tracadie,  now  over  a  century  old;  near  which 
is  the  sandy  lagoon  of  Tracadie  Harbor.  At  the  place  called  Scotch  Fort 
the  French  built  the  first  church  on  the  island,  and  in  this  vicinity  the 
earliest  British  sel  tiers  located.  From  the  French  Catholic  church  on  the 
lofty  hill  at  St.  Andrews,  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  E.,  a  beautiful  view  is 
obtained  over  a  rich  rural  country. 

Mount  Stewart  (two  Inns)  is  a  prosperous  little  shipbuilding  village, 
whence  the  steamer  Heather  Belli}  runs  to  Charlottetown.  The  train 
crosses  the  river  at  this  point,  and  at  Mount  Stewart  Junction  it  turns 
to  the  S.  E.,  while  the  Souris  Railway  diverges  to  the  N.  E.  The  country 
which  is  now  traversed  is  thinly  settled,  and  lies  about  the  head-waters  of 
the  Morrell  and  Pisquid  Rivers.  There  are  several  small  lakes  in  this 
region,  and  forests  are  seen  on  either  hand.  At  Cardigan  (small  inn)  the 
line  reaches  the  head-waters  of  the  eastern  rivers.  A  road  leads  hence  to 
the  populous  settlements  on  the  Vernon  River  and  Pownal  Bay. 

Georgetown  ( Commercial  Hotel)  is  the  capital  of  King's  County,  and 
has  about  800  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on  the  long  peninsula  between 
the  Cardigan  and  Brudenelle  Rivers,  and  its  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on 
the  island,  being  deep  and  secure,  and  the  last  to  be  closed  by  ice.  The 
county  buildings,  academy,  and  Episcopal  church  are  on  Kent  Square. 
The  chief  business  of  the  town  is  in  the  exportation  of  produce,  and  ship- 
building is  carried  on  to  some  extent.  The  town  is  well  laid  Out,  but  its 
growth  has  been  very  slow.  Steamers  ply  between  this  port,  Pictou,  and 
the  Magdalen  Islands  (see  Routes  44  and  49).  The  harbor  is  reached  by 
ascending  Cardigan  Bay  and  passing  the  lighthouses  on  Panmure  Head 
and  St.  Andrew's  Point.  ,, 

Montague  Bridge  (Montague  House)  is  reached  from  Georgetown  by  a 
ferry  of  6  M.  and  11  M.  of  staging.  It  has  360  inhabitants  and  several 
mills.  To  the  S.  E.  is  St.  Mary's  Bay.  About  20  M.  S.  of  Georgetown  is 
Murray  Harbor,  on  which  there  are  several  Scottish  villages.  From  Cape 
Bear  the  coast  trends  W.  for  27  M.  to  Point  Prim. 


"  No  land  can  boast  more  rich  supply, 
That  e'er  was  found  beneath  the  sky  ; 
No  purer  streams  have  ever  flowed, 
Since  Heaven  that  bounteous  ^ft  bestowed. 

,  •  •  •  • 

And  herring,  like  a  mighty  host. 

And  cod  and  mackerel,  crowd  the  coast." 


*'  In  this  fine  island,  long  neglected, 
Much,  it  is  thought,  might  be  effected 
By  industry  and  application,  — 
Sources  of  wealth  with  every  nation." 


M^^AMilii^S 


182     R(mUJt8. 


ST.  PETEBU 


48.  Charlottetown  to  Sf>nri8. 

By  the  Prince  Edward  Island  Railway. 

Stations. — Charlottetown;  Royalty  Junction,  6  M. ;  Mount  Stewart,  22 ;  Mor- 
xell,  90 ;  St.  Peter'o,  88^ ;  Harmony,  65 ;  Souris,  60^. 

Charlottetown  to  Mount  Stewart,  see  page  181. 

At  Mount  Stewart  Junction  the  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  and  soon 
reaches  Morrell,  a  fishing-station  on  the  Morrell  River,  near  St.  Peter's 
Bay. 

St.  Peter's  (Prairie  Hctel)  was  from  the  first  the  most  important  port 
on  the  N.  shore  of  the  island,  on  account  of  its  rich  salmon-fisheries. 
About  the  year  1760  the  French  government  endeavored  to  restrict  the 
fishing  of  the  island,  and  to  stimulate  its  agriculture,  by  closing  all  the 
ports  except  St.  Peter's  and  Tracadie.  The  village  is  now  quite  small, 
though  the  salmon-fishery  is  valuable.  St.  Peter's  Bay  runs.  7  M.  into 
the  land,  but  it  is  of  little  use,  since  there  is  only  5  ft.  of  water  on  its 
sandy  bar.  From  this  inlet  to  East  Point  the  shore  is  unbroken,  and  is 
formed  of  a  line  of  red  sandstone  cliffs,  33  M.  long. 

"  The  sea-trout  fishing,  in  the  bays  and  harbors  of  Prince  Edward  Island,  espe- 
cially in  June,  when  the  fish  first  rush  in  from  the  gulf,  is  really  magnificent.  They 
average  firom  3  to  6  pounds  each.  I  found  the  best  fisbing  at  St.  Peter's  Bay,  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  island,  about  28  M.  from  Charlottetown.  I  there  killed  in  one 
morning  16  trout,  which  weighed  80  pounds.  In  the  bays  and  along  the  coasts  of 
the  island  they  are  taken  with  the  scarlet  fly,  from  a  boat  under  easy  sail,  with  a 
*  macku/el  breeze,'  and  sometimes  a  heavy  '  ground  swell.'  The  fly  skips  from  wave 
to  wave  at  the  end  of  ^  yards  of  line,  and  there  should  be  at  least  70  yards  more  on 
the  reel.  It  is  splendid  sport,  as  a  strong  fish  will  make  sometimes  a  long  run,  and 
give  a  good  chase  down  the  wind."  (Peblet.) 

Harmony  station  is  near  Rollo  Bay,  which  was  named  in  honor  of  Lord 
RoUo,  who  occupied  the  island  with  British  troops  in  1758.  There  is  a 
small  hamlet  on  this  bay;  and  to  the  S.  W.  are  the  Gaelic  settlements  of 
Dundas,  Bridgetown,  and  Annandale,  situated  on  the  Grand  River. 

Souris  (three  inns)  is  a  village  of  Catholic  Highlanders,  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  N.  side  of  Colville  Bay,  and  divided  into  two  portions  by 
the  Souris  River.  The  harbor  is  shallow,  but  is  being  improved  by  a  break- 
water. The  shore-fishing  is  pursued  in  fleets  of  dories,  and  most  of  the 
produce  of  the  adjacent  country  is  shipped  from  Souris  to  the  French  Isle 
of  St.  Pierre  (see  page  185).  There  is  a  long  sandy  beach  on  the  W.  of  the 
village,  and  on  the  S.  and  E.  is  a  bold  headland.  Souris  was  settled  by 
the  Acadians  in  1748 ;  and  now  contains  about  500  inhabitants. 

The  East  Parish  extends  for  several  leagues  E.  of  Souris,  and  includes 
the  sea-shore  hamlets  of  Red  Point,  Bothwell,  East  Point,  North  Lake,  and 
Fairfield.  The  East  and  North  Lakes  are  long  and  shallow  lagoons  on  the 
coast.  East  Point  is  provided  with  a  first-class  fixed  light,  which  is  180 
ft.  ahove  the  sea  and  is  visible  for  18  M. 


MAGDALEN  ISLANDS.  Route  49.      183 


49.   The  Magdalen  Islands. 

These  remote  islands  are  sometimes  visited,  during  tlie  summer,  by  flshins-par- 
ties,  who  find  rare  sport  in  catcV'  ^g  the  white  sta-trout  that  abound  in  the  vicinity. 
The  accommodations  for  visib.a  are  of  the  mcst  primitive  kind,  but  many  defects 
are  atoned  for  by  the  hospitality  of  the  people. 

The  mail-steamer  Albert  leaves  Pictou  for  Geor^i^etown  (P.  E.  I.)  and  the  Magdalen 
Islands  every  alternate  Wednesday.  She  also  leaves  Pictou  for  Port  Hood  (Cape 
Breton)  every  Monday  evening,  returning  on  the  following  morning.  (Time-table 
of  1874  ) 

Fares.  —  Halifax  to  Port  Hood,  $  4.60 ;  to  Georgetown,  $  4.10 ;  to  the  Magdalen 
Islands,  S  8.  Further  particulars  may  be  obtained  by  addressing  James  King,  xoail- 
contractor,  Halifkz. 

The  Magdalen  Islands  ara  thirteen  in  number,  and  are  situated  at  the 
entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  50  M.  from  East  Point  (P.  E.  I.), 
60  M.  from  Cape  North  (C.  B.),  120  M.  from  Cape  Ray  (N.  F,),  and  150  M. 
from  Gasp4.  When  they  are  first  seen  from  the  sea,  they  present  the  ap- 
peal ance  of  well-detached  islets,  but  on  a  nearer  approach  several  of  them 
arc  seen  to  be  connected  with  jach  other  by  double  lines  of  sandy  beacheS| 
forming  broad  and  quiet  salt-water  lagoons.  The  inhabitants  are  mostly 
Acadian  fishermen  (speaking  French  only),  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  the 
immense  schools  of  cod  and  mackerel  that  visit  the  neighboring  wcters. 
At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  harborr  and  lagoons  aro  filled  with 
hundreds  of  sail  of  fishing-vessels,  most  of  which  are  American  and  Pro- 
vincial. Seal-hunting  is  carried  on  here  with  much  success,  as  extensive 
fields  of  ice  drift  down  against  the  shores,  bearing  myriads  of  seals.  On 
one  occasion  over  6,000  seals  were  killed  here  in  less  than  a  fortnight  by 
parties  going  out  over  the  ice  from  the  shore.  This  is  also  said  to  be  the 
best  place  in  America  for  the  lobster  fishery,  and  a  Portland  company  has 
recently  founded  a  canning  establishment  here.  On  account  of  their 
abundant  returns  in  these  regards  the  Magdalen  Islands  have  received  the 
fitting  title  of  "  The  Kingdom  of  Fish."  In  order  to  protect  these  interests 
the  Dominion  armed  cutter  La  Canadienne  usually  spends  the  summer  in 
these  waters,  to  prevent  encroachments  by  Americans  and  Frenchmen. 

Amherst  Island  is  the  chief  of  the  group,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  principal 
village,  the  custom-house,  and  the  public  buildings.  On  its  S.  point  is  a 
red-and-white  revolving  light  which  is  visible  for  20  M. ;  and  the  hills  in  the 
interior,  550  ffc.  high,  are  seen  from  a  great  distance  by  day.  The  village  has 
3  churches  and  the  court-house,  and  is  situated  on  a  small  harbor  which 
opens  on  the  S.  of  Pleasant  Bay,  a  broad  and  secure  roadstead  where  hun- 
dreds of  vessels  sometimes  weather  heavy  stov-ms  in  safety.  1  M.  N.  W. 
of  the  village  is  the  singular  conical  hill  called  the  Demoiselle  (280  ft.  high), 
whence  the  bay  and  a  great  part  of  the  islands  may  be  seen. 

Grindsione  Island  is  5  -  6  M.  N.  of  Amherst,  and  is  connected  with  it 
by  a  double  line  of  sand-beaches,  which  enclose  the  wide  lagoon  called 
Basque  Harbor.  It  is  6  M.  long,  and  has  a  central  hill  650  ft.  high,  while 
on  the  W.  shore  is  the  lofty  conical  promontory  of  sandstone  wliich  the 


184     R(r''^  ia.         IIAODALEN  ISLANDS. 

AcadiaoB  call  Cap  de  Meule.  On  the  same  side  is  the  thriving  hamlet  of 
L*£tang  du  Nord.  On  the  E.,  and  containing  7  square  miles,  is  Alriglit 
Island,  terminated  by  the  grayish-white  cliffs  of  Cape  Alright,  over  400 
ft.  high.  A  sand-beach  runs  N.  £.  10  M.  from  Grindstone  to  Wolf  Island, 
a  sandstone  rock  |  M.  long;  and  another  beach  runs  thence  9  M.  farther 
to  the  N.  E.  to  Grosse  Island^  on  the  Grand  Lagoon.  This  island  has  another 
line  of  lofty  cliffs  of  sandstone.  To  the  E.  is  Coffin  Island^  and  4  M.  N.  is 
Bryon  Island,  beyond  which  are  the  Bird  Isles, 

Entry  Island  lies  to  the  E.  of  Amherst  Island,  off  the  entrance  to 
Pleasant  Bay,  and  is  the  most  picturesque  of  the  group.  Near  the  centre 
is  a  hill  580  ft.  high,  visible  for  25  M.,  and  from  whose  summit  the 
whole  Magdalen  group  can  be  overlooked.  The  wonderful  cliffs  of  red 
sandstone  which  line  the  shores  of  this  island  are  very  picturesque  in  their 
effect,  and  reach  a  height  of  400  ft. 

Deadman's  Isle  is  a  rugged  rock  8  M.  W.  of  Amherst,  and  derives  its 
name  from  the  fancied  resemblance  of  its  contour  to  that  of  a  corpse  laid 
out  for  burial.  While  passing  this  rock,  in  1804,  Tom  Moore  wrote  the 
poem  which  closes : 


**  There  lieth  a  wreck  on  the  dismal  shore 
Of  cold  and  pitiless  Labrador, 
IVhere,  under  the  moon,  upon  mounts  of 

frost. 
Full  many  a  mariner's  bones  are  tossed. 

"Ton  shadowy  bark  hath  been  to  that  wreck, 
And  the  dim  blue  fire  that  lights  her  deck 


Doth  play  on  t^p  njie  and  livid  a  erew 
As  ever  yet  dra'  .k  the  churchyard  dew. 

"  To  Deadman's  Isle  in  the  eye  of  the  blast. 
To  Deadman's  Isle  she  speeds  her  fast ; 
By  skeleton  sliapes  her  sails  arc  furled. 
And  the  hand  that  steers  is  not  of  thU 
world." 


The  Bird  Isles  are  two  bare  rocks  of  red  sandstone,  |  M.  apart,  the  chief 
of  which  is  known  as  Gannet  Rock,  and  is  1,300  ft.  long  and  100-140  ft. 
high,  lined  with  vertical  cliffs.  These  isl^s  are  haunted  by  immense  num- 
bers of  sea-birds,  gannets,  guillemots,  puffins,  kittiwakes,  and  razor-billed 
auks.  **  No  other  breeding-place  on  our  shore  is  so  remarkable  at  once 
for  the  number  and  variety  of  the  species  occupying  it."  Immense  quan- 
tities of  eggs  are  carried  thence  by  the  islanders,  but  to  a  less  extent  than 
formerly. 

This  great  natural  curiosity  was  visited  in  1632  by  the  Jesuits  (who  called  the  rocks 
Les  Cotombiers),  by  Heriot  in  1807,  by  Audubon,  and  in  1860  by  Dr.  Bryan.  The 
Dominion  has  recently  erected  a  lighthouse  here  at  great  expense,  and  to  the  imminent 
peril  of  those  engaged  in  the  work,  since  there  is  no  landing-place,  and  in  breezy 
weather  the  surf  dashes  violently  against  the  clifis  all  around.  The  tower  bears  » 
fixed  white  light  of  the  first  class,  which  is  visible  for  21  M. 

Charlevoix  visited  these  islands  in  1720,  and  wondered  how, "  in  such  a  Multitude 
of  Nests,  every  Bird  immediately  finds  her  own.  We  fired  a  Gun,  which  gave  the 
Alarm  thro'  all  this  flying  Commonwealth,  and  there  was  formed  above  the  two 
Islands,  a  thick  Cloud  of  these  Birds,  which  was  at  least  two  or  three  Leagues 
around." 


The  Slagdalen  lBu.^ds  were  visited  by  Car  tier  in  1684,  but  the  first  permanent  sta- 
tion was  founded  here  in  1663  by  a  company  of  Honfleur  mariners,  to  whom  the 
islands  were  conceded  by  the  Company  of  New  France.  In  1720  the  Duchess  of 
Orleans  granted  them  to  the  Count  do  St.  Pierre.  In  1768  they  were  inhabited  by 
10  ^«»^iftn  flimilies,  and  in  1767  a  Boatonian  named  Gridley  founded  on  Amherst 


ST.  PIERRE  AND  MIQUELON.    HouU  SO,      185 

bland  an  estabUahment  ibr  trading  and  for  the  teal  and  walnu  fliherles.  Dnrlng 
the  Revolution  American  prirateers  vidited  the  islands,  and  destroyed  everything 
accessible.  Gridley  returned  after  the  war,  but  the  walrus  soon  became  extinct, 
and  the  islanders  turned  their  attention  to  the  cod  and  herring  fisheries.  When 
Admiral  Coffin  received  his  grant  there  were  100  families  here;  in  1831  there  were 
1,000  inhabitanta;  and  the  present  population  is  about  3,500.  In  the  mean  time 
three  colonies  have  been  founded  and  populated  from  these  itilands,  on  Labrador  and 
the  N.  shore.  The  Lord's>Day  Qulc  (see  page  170)  wrought  sad  havoc  among  the 
fleets  in  these  waters. 

Tradition  tells  that  when  Capt.  Coffin  wa«  conveying  Oovemor-General  Lord  Dor- 
chester to  Canada  in  his  frigate,  a  furious  storm  arose  in  the  Gulf,  and  the  skilful 
mariner  saved  his  vessel  by  gaining  shelter  under  the  lee  of  these  islands.  Dorches- 
ter,  grateful  for  his  preservation,  secured  for  the  captain  the  grant  of  the  islands 
"in  free  and  common  soccage,"  with  the  rights  of  building  roads  and  fortifications 
reserved  to  the  Crown.  The  grantee  was  a  native  of  Boston  and  a  benefactor  of 
Nantucket,  and  subsequently  became  Admiral  Sir  Isaac  Coffin.  The  grant  now 
belongs  to  his  nephew,  Admiral  Coffin,  of  Bath,  and  is  an  entailed  estote  of  the 
family.  In  1873,  75  years  after  the  grant,  the  legislature  of  Quebec  (in  whose  Juris- 
diction the  islands  lie)  made  extensive  investigations  with  a  view  to  buy  out  the  pro- 
prietor's clidm,  since  many  of  the  islanders  had  emigrated  to  Labrador  and  th* 
Mlngan  Isles,  dissatisfied  with  their  uncertain  tenure  of  the  land. 


50.   St  Pierre  and  Miquelon. 

The  Angle-French  Steamship  Company  dispatches  the  steamer  George  Shattuek 
firom  Halifax  to  Sydney  and  St.  Pierre  every  alternate  Saturday  during'  the  season 
of  navigation.  She  leaves  St.  Pierre  every  alternate  Friday.  The  voyage  to  Sydney 
has  i..sently  been  made  by  way  of  St.  Peter's  Canal  and  the  Bras  d'Or,  but  it  is  not 
likely  vhat  that  route  will  be  adopted  in  preference  to  the  outside  course. 

Fares  from  Halifax  to  Sydney,  cabin,  $  10,  steerage,  $6  ;  to  St.  Pierre,  cabin, 
$15,  steerage,  $8;  Sydney  to  St.  Pierre,  cabin,  $9,  steerage,  $6.  The  price  of 
meals  is  included  in  the  cabin-fares.  Further  information  may  be  obtained  by  ad- 
dressing Joseph  S.  Belcher.  Boak's  Wharf,  Halifax. 

St.  Pierre  may  also  be  visited  by  the  Western  Coastal  steamer  from  St.  John's, 
N.  F.  (see  Route  60). 

There  are  several  French  cafis  and  pensions  in  the  village  of  St.  Pierre,  at  which 
the  traveller  can  find  indifferent  accommodations.  The  best  of  these  is  that  at  which 
the  telegraph-operators  stop. 

On  entering  the  harbor  of  St.  Pierre,  the  steamer  passes  Galantry  Head,  on  which 
is  a  red-and-white  flash-light  which  is  visible  for  20  M.,  and  also  two  fog-guns. 
Within  the  harbor  are  two  fixed  lights,  one  white  and  one  red,  which  are  visible  for 
6  M. ;  and  the  Isle  aux  Chiens  contains  a  scattered  fishing-village. 

The  island  of  St.  Pierre  is  about  12  M.  from  Point  May,  on  the  New- 
foundland coast,  and  is  12  M.  in  circumference.  It  is  mostly  composed  of 
rugged  porphyritic  ridges,  utterly  arid  and  barren,  and  the  scenery  is  of 
a  striking  and  singular  character.  Back  of  the  village  is  the  hill  of  Cal- 
vairCf  surmounted  by  a  tall  cross;  and  to  the  S.  W.,  beyord  Ravenel  Bay, 
is  the  lakelet  called  L'Etang  du  Savoyard.  The  town  is  compactly  built  on 
the  harbor  at  the  E.  of  the  island,  and  most  of  its  houses  are  of  stone.  It 
is  guarded  by  about  50  French  soldiers,  whose  presence  is  necessary  to 
keep  the  multitudes  of  fearless  and  pugnacious  sailors  from  incessant  riot- 
ing. There  is  a  large  force  of  telegraph-operators  here,  in  charge  of  the 
two  cables  from  America  to  Great  Britain  by  way  of  Newfoundland,  and 
of  the  Franco-American  cable,  which  runs  £.  to  Brest  and  S.  W.  to  Doz- 
bury,  in  Massachusetts. 

The  only  good  house  in  the  town  is  that  of  the  Govemor;  and  the  Cath- 


!■;  :    I 


f*     iv 


186      RmUeSO.    ST.  PIERRE  AND  MIQUELON. 

olic  church  and  conyent  rise  prominently  over  the  low  houses  of  the  fisher- 
men. Near  the  sea  is  a  battery  of  ancient  guns,  which  are  used  only  for 
warning  in  season  of  fogs.  The  buildings  are  nearly  all  of  wood,  and  in- 
clude many  shops,  where  every  variety  of  goods  may  be  obtained.  The 
merchants  are  connected  with  French  and  American  firms.  There  are 
numerous  cdbarets^  or  drinking-saloons ;  and  the  avberge$y  or  small  taverns, 
are  thorougiily  French.  Tlie  citizens  are  famed  for  their  hospitality  to 
properly  accredited  strangers;  and  the  literary  culture  of  the  community 
is  served  by  a  diminutive  weekly  paper  called  La  Feuille  OffideUe^  printed 
on  a  sheet  of  foolscap,  and  containing  its  serial  Parisian  ftuilleton. 

The  street  of  St.  Pierre  presents  a  very  interesting  sight  during  the 
spring  and  fall.  It  is  crowded  with  many  thousands  of  hardy  fishermen, 
arrayed  in  the  quaint  costumes  of  their  native  shores,  —  Normans,  Bretons, 
Basques,  Provincials,  and  New-Englanders,  —  all  active  and  alert;  while 
the  implements  of  the  fisheries  are  seen  on  every  side.  The  environs  of 
the  town  are  rocky  and  utterly  unproductive,  so  that  the  provisions  used 
here  are  imported  from  the  Provinces. 

The  resident  population  is  3,187  (of  whom  24  are  Protestant),  and  the 
government  is  conducted  by  a  Commandant,  a  Police  Magistrate,  Doctor, 
Apostolic  Prefect,  and  Engineer,  with  a  few  artillerists  and  gens-d'armes. 
There  is  usually  one  or  more  French  frigates  in  the  harbor,  looking  after 
the  vast  fisheries  which  employ  16,000  sailors  of  France,  and  return 
80,000,000  francs'  worth  of  fish. 

St.  Pierre  is  the  chief  rendezvous  of  the  I<'rench  fishermen,  and  immenfie  fleets  are 
sometimes  gathered  here.  Over  1,000  sail  of  square-rigged  vessels  from  France  are 
engaged  in  these  fishrries,  and  on  the  29tli  of  June,  1874,  the  roadstead  near  the 
island  contained  850  sail  of  square-rigged  vessels  and  800  fore-and-aft  vessels.  They 
are  here  furnished  with  supplies,  which  are  drawn  from  the  adjacent  Provinces,  and 
in  return  leave  many  of  the  luxuries  of  Old  France.  It  is  claimed  that  the  brandy 
of  St.  Pierre  is  the  best  in  America.  The  fishermen  leave  their  fish  here  to  be  cured, 
and  from  this  point  they  are  sent  S.  to  the  United  States  and  the  West  Indies. 

Little  Miquflon  hland,  or  Langley  Island,  lies  3  M.  N.  W.  of  St.  Pierre,  and  la 
about  24  M.  around.  It  is  joined  to  Great  Mlquelon  Island  by  a  long  and 
narrow  sandy  isthmus.  The  latter  island  is  12  M.  long,  and  looks  out  on  Fortune 
Bay.  Near  its  N.  end  are  the  singular  hills  known  as  Mt.  Ghapeau  and  Mt.  Cal- 
vaire.  On  this  island,  during  the  summer  of  1874.  was  wrecked  H.  B.  M.  frigate 
Niobe,  the  brave  ship  that  trained  her  guns  on  Santiago  de  Cuba,  and  prevented  a 
total  massacre  of  the  Virginius  prisoners. 

St.  Pierre  was  captured  by  a  British  fleet  in  1793,  and  all  its  inhabitants,  1,502  in 
number,  were  carried  away  to  Halifax,  whence  they  were  soon  afterwards  sent  to 
France.  In  1796  a  French  Republican  fleet  under  Admiral  Richery  visited  the  de- 
serted island,  and  completely  destroyed  its  buildings  and  wharves.  It  was,  how- 
ever, restored  to  France  in  1814,  together  with  her  ancient  privileges  in  these 
waters.  "All  the  island  is  only  a  great  laboratory  for  the  preparation,  curing, 
and  exportation  of  codfish.  For  the  rest,  not  a  tree,  not  a  bush,  above  25  cenn- 
meties."  > 


NEWFOUNDLAND 


Is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  N.  by  the 
Strnit  of  Belle  Isle,  and  on  the  £.  and  S.  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  From 
N.  to  S.  it  is  850  M.  long,  and  the  average  breadth  is  180  M.,  giving  an 
estimated  area  of  40,200  square  miles.  The  coast  is  steep  and  bold,  and 
is  indented  with  numerous  deep  bays  and  fiords.  Mines  of  lead  and  cop- 
per are  being  worked  with  much  success,  and  there  are  large  undeveloped 
'eposits  of  coal  on  the  W  coast. 

"  Up  go  the  surges  on  the  coast  of  NewfouDdland,  and  down  again  into  the  sea. 
The  huge  island  ....  stands,  with  it!)  sheer,  beetling  clitTs,  out  of  the  ocean,  a  mon- 
strous mass  of  roclc  and  gravel,  almost  without  soil,  like  a  strange  thing  from  the 
bottom  of  the  great  deep,  lifted  up  suddenly  into  sunshine  and  storm,  but  belong- 
ing to  the  watery  darkness  out  of  which  it  has  been  reared.  The  eye  accustomed  to 
richer  and  softer  scenes  finds  something  of  a  strange  and  almost  startUng  beauty  in 
its  bold,  hard  outlines,  cut  out  un  every  side  against  the  sky Inland,  sur- 
rounded by  a  fringe  of  small  forests  on  the  coast<>,  is  a  vast  wilderness  of  moss,  and 
rock,  and  lake,  and  dwarf  firs  about  breast-high.  These  little  trees  are  so  close  and 
el  iff  and  flat-topped  that  one  can  almost  walk  on  them.  Of  course  they  are  very  hard 
things  to  make  way  through  and  among.  ....  In  March  or  April  almost  all  the 
men  go  out  in  fleets  to  meet  the  ice  that  floats  down  from  the  northern  regions  and 
to  kill  the  seals  that  come  down  on  it.  In  early  summer  a  third  part  or  a  half  of 
all  the  people  go,  by  families,  in  their  schooners,  to  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and 
^pend  the  summer  fishing  there ;  and  in  the  winter,  half  of  them  are  living  in  tlie 
woods,  in  tilts,  to  have  their  fuel  near  them.  At  home  or  abroad,  during  the  sea- 
son, the  men  are  on  the  water  for  seals  or  cod.  The  women  sow,  and  plant,  and 
tend  the  little  gardens,  and  dry  the  fish ;  in  short,  they  do  the  land-work,  and  are 
the  better  for  it."  (R.  T.  S.  Lowell.) 

Two  of  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the  natural  history  of  the  island 
are  thus  quaintly  set  forth  by  Whitboume  {anno  1622) :  *'  Neither  are  there 
any  Snakes,  Toads,  Serpents,  or  any  other  venomous  Wormes  that  ever 
were  knowne  to  hurt  any  man  in  that  country,  but  only  a  very  little  nim- 
ble fly  (the  least  of  all  other  flies),  which  is  called  a  Miskieto;  those  flies 
seem  to  have  a  great  power  and  authority  upon  all  loytering  and  idle  peo- 
ple that  come  to  the  Newfoundland."  Instances  have  been  known  where 
the  flies  have  attacked  men  with  such  venom  and  multitudes  that  fatal 
results  have  followed.  In  the  interior  of  the  island  are  vast  unexplored 
regions,  studded  with  large  lakes  and  mountain-i'anges.  Through  these 
solitudes  roam  countless  thousands  of  deer,  which  are  pursued  by  the  Mic- 
mac  hunters. 

Newfoundland  was  discovered  by  the  Norsemen  in  the  tenth  century, 
but  they  merely  observed  the  coast  and  made  no  farther  explorations. 


^1 


m 

m 


I 


5  r:  ! 


If  I  M 


1^         r 


188      Jtmite  61. 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


There  is  good  reason  for  supposing  that  it  was  frequented  by  Breton  and 
Norman  fishermen  during  the  fourteenth  century.  In  1497  the  island  Was 
formally  discovered  by  John  Cabot,  who  was  voyaging  under  the  patron- 
age of  Henry  VII.  of  England.  The  explorations  of  Cortereal  (1501),  Ve- 
razzano  (1524),  and  Cartier  (1534),  all  touched  here,  and  great  fishing- 
fleets  began  to  visit  the  surrounding  seas.  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  took 
possession  of  Newfoundland  in  the  name  of  England,  in  1583,  making 
this  the  most  ancient  colony  of  the  British  Empire..  The  settlements 
of  Guy,  Whitboume,  Calvert,  and  others  were  soon  established  on  the 
coast.  I . 

The  fishermen  were  terribly  persecuted  by  pirates  during  the  earlier 
part  of  the  17th  century.  Peter  Easton  alone  had  10  sail  of  corsairs  on  the 
coast,  claiming  that  he  was  "master  of  the  seas,"  and  levying  heavy 
taxes  on  all  the  vessels  in  these  waters.  Between  1612  and  1660  alone, 
the  pirates  captured  180  pieces  of  ordnance,  1,080  fishermen,  and  large 
fleets  of  vessels. 

Between  1692  and  1713  the  French  made  vigorous  attempts  to  conquer 
the  island,  and  the  struggle  raged  with  varying  fortunes  on  the  E.  and  S. 
shores.  By  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  the  French  received  permission  to  catch 
and  cure  fish  along  the  W.  coast  (see  Route  61).  In  1728  Newfoundland 
was  formed  into  a  Province,  and  courts  were  established.  The  French  made 
determined  attacks  in  1761  and  1796,  and  the  people  were  reduced  to 
great  extremity  by  the  Non-Intercourse  Act  passed  by  the  American  Con- 
gress in  1776  and  again  in  1812-14.  In  1817  there  were  80,000  inhab- 
itants, and  800  vessels  were  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  whose  product  was 
valued  at  $  10,000,000  a  year.  In  1832  the  first  Legislative  Assembly  was 
convened;  in  1838  a  geological  survey  ^/as  made;  and  in  1858  the  Atlan- 
tic telegraph-cable  was  landed  on  these  shores.  Newfoundland  has  i*e- 
fused  to  enter  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  is  still  governed  directly  by 
the  British  Crown. 


61.   Halifax  to  St  John's,  Newfoundland. 

The  ocean  steamships  between  Halifax  and  Liverpool  call  at  St.  John's  fortnightly. 
Their  course  after  leaving  Halifax  is  directly  to  the  N.  £.  across  the  open  sea,  giving 
Cape  Race  a  wide  berth.  The  fare  on  these  vessels  is  higher  than  it  is  on  the  rtVgo, 
and  the  accommodations  are  superior ;  but  the  voyager  does  not  get  the  iuterestiDg 
views  of  the  Oanso  and  Cape-Breton  shores. 

Cromwell-Line  steamships  run  fortnightly  between  New  York,  HalifSiz,  and  8t. 
John's.  The  fare  is  $15  or  $6.  They  are  well  arranged  for  passenger-trafflo. 
Also,  steamships  of  the  Allan  Line. 

Halifax  to  Sydney,  see  page  148. 

After  leaving  the  harbor  of  Sydney,  Flint  Island  is  seen  on  the  r.,  and  the 
blue  ranges  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  on  the  1.  The  course  is  but  little  N.  of 
£.,  and  the  horizon  soon  becomes  level  and  landless.  Sometimes  the  dim 
blue  hills  of  St.  Pierre  are  the  first  land  seen  after  the  Cape-Breton  coast 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


BouteSi.      189 


sinks  below  the  horizon;  but  generally  the  bold  mountain-promontory  of 
Cape  Chapeau  Rouge  is  the  first  recognizable  shore.  Then  the  deep  bight 
of  Placentia  Bay  opens  away  on  the  N.  After  rounding  Cape  Race  (see 
page  199),  the  steamship  stretches  away  up  the  Strait  Shore  past  a  line 
of  fishing  hamlets,  deep  fiords,  and  rocky  capes. 

*'  When  the  mistfl  dispersed,  the  rocky  shores  of  Newfoundland  were  close  upon 
our  left,  —  lofty  cliffs,  red  and  gray,  terribly  beaten  by  the  waves  of  the  broad  ocean. 
We  amused  ourselves,  as  we  passed  abreast  the  bays  and  headlands  and  rugged 
islands,  with  gazing  at  the  wild  scene,  and  searching  out  the  beauty  timidly  reposing 
among  the  bleak  and  desolate.  On  the  whole,  Newfoundland,  to  the  voyager  from 
the  t$tate8,i8  a  lean  and  bony  land,  in  thin,  ragged  clothes,  with  the  smallest  amount 
of  adornment.  Along  the  sides  of  the  dull,  brown  mountains  there  is  a  suspicion 
of  verdure,  spotted  and  striped  here  and  there  with  meagre  woods  of  birch  and  fir. 
The  glory  of  this  hard  region  is  its  coast :  a  wonderfiU  perplexity  of  fiords,  bays  and 
creeks,  islands,  peninsulas  and  capes,  endlessly  picturesque,  and  very  often  magnifi- 
cently grand.  Nothing  can  well  exceed  the  headlands  and  precipices,  honeycombed, 
shattered,  and  hollow^  out  into  vast  caverns, and  given  up  to  the  thunders  and  the 

fury  of  the  deep-sea  billows The  brooks  that  flow  from  the  highlands,  and  fall 

over  cliffs  of  great  elevation  into  the  very  surf,  and  that  would  be  counted  features 
of  grandeur  in  some  countries,  are  here  the  merest  trifles,  a  kind  of  jewelry  on  the 
hem  of  the  landscape."    (Noble.) 

"  The  first  view  of  the  harbor  of  St.  John's  is  very  striking.  Lofty  precipitous 
cliffs,  of  hard  dark-red  sandstone  and  conglomerate,  range  along  the  coast,  with  deep 
water  close  at  their  feet.  Their  h^la  plunge  from  a  height  of  4()0  -  700  ft. ,  at  an  angle 
of  70°,  right  into  the  sea,  wher.;  they  are  ceaselessly  dashed  against  by  the  unbroken 
swell  of  the  Atlantic  waves. '*    (Jukes  ) 

^  52.   St  John's,  Newfbnndland. 

Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  "  The  harbor  of  St.  John's  is  certdnly  one  of  the 

most  remarkable  for  bold  and  effective  scenery  on  the  Atlantic  shore We  were 

moving  spiritedly  forward  over  a  bright  and  lively  sea,  watching  the  stem  headlands 
receding  in  the  south,  and  starting  out  to  view  in  the  north,  when  we  passed  Gape 
Spear,  a  lofty  promontory,  crowned  with  a  lighthouse  and  a  signal-staff,  upon  which 
was  floating  the  meteor  flag  of  England,  and  at  once  found  ourselves  abreast  the 
bay  in  Aront  of  St.  John's.  Not  a  vestige,  though,  of  anything  like  a  city  was  in 
sight,  except  another  flag  flitting  on  a  distant  pinnacle  of  rock.  Like  a  mighty 
Coliseum,  the  sea-wall  half  encircled  the  deep  water  of  this  outer  bay,  into  which 
the  full  power  of  the  ocean  let  itself  under  every  wind  except  the  westerly.  Right 
towards  the  coast  where  it  gathered  itself  up  into  the  greatest  massiveness,  and  tied 
itself  into  a  very  Gordian  knot,  we  cui:  across,  curious  to  behold  when  and  where  the 
rugged  adamant  was  going  to  split  and  let  us  through.  At  length  it  opened,  and  we 
looked  through,  and  presently  glided  through  a  kind  of  mountain-pass,  with  all  the 
lonely  grandeur  of  the  Franconia  Notch.  Above  us,  and  close  above,  the  rugged, 
brown  cliffs  rose  to  a  fine  height,  armed  at  certain  points  with  cannon,  and  before 
us,  to  all  appearance,  opened  out  a  most  beautiful  mountain  lake,  with  a  little  city 
looking  down  from  the  mountain-side,  and  a  swamp  of  shipping  along  its  shores.  We 
were  in  the  harbor,  and  before  St.  John's."    (Noble.) 

Hotels.  —  The  Union  House,  379  Water  St.  (nearly  1 M.  from  the  Custom  House), 
is  the  best ;  Atlantic  Houfc,  Water  St.  There  are  also  two  or  three  boarding- 
houses,  which  are  preferable  to  the  hotels,  if  a  long  stay  is  to  be  made.  Mrs. 
Simms's,  353  Water  St. ,  ia  one  of  the  best  of  these ;  and  Knight's  Home,  173  Water  St., 
is  tolerable.  The  accommodations  for  visitors  to  St.  John's  are  not  such  as  might 
be  desired  or  expected  in  a  city  of  so  much  importance. 

Carriages  may  be  engaged  at  the  stands  on  Water  St.  (near  the  Post-Office). 
The  rate  per  hour  is  80c. 

Amusements,  generally  of  merely  local  interest,  are  prepared  in  Temper* 
ance  Hall  or  the  Avalon  (Victoria)  Rink.  Boat-racing  is  frequently  carried  on  at 
Quiddy-Viddy  Pond.    Cricket-matches  are  also  played  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city. 

Po*t-Office,  at  the  Market  House,  on  Water  St.  Telegraph,  New  York,  New- 
foundland, and  London  Co.,  at  the  Market  House. 


190     RouU  52. 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


Mall-^ragons  leare  St.  Jdhn's  for  Portugal  Oove,  daily ;  to  Bay  Balln  and 
Ferry  land,  weekly ;  to  Salmonier  and  Placentia,  on  the  day  of  arrival  of  the  Hali- 
&x  mail.    Railroad  to  points  on  Conception  Bay. 

Steamships.  —  For  Bay-de-Verds,  Trinity,  Catalina,  Bonavista,  King's  Coye, 
Oreenspond,  Fogo,  Twillinprate,  Exploits  Island,  Little  Bay  Island,  Tilt  Cove,  Bett's 
Cove,  Nipper's  Harbor,  and  the  Labrador  coast ;  to  Ferry  land,  Renewse,  Trepassey, 
Burin,  St.  Lawrence,  Grand  Bank,  St.  Pierre.  Harbor  Briton ,  Gaultois,  Great  Jervois, 
Burgeo,  Little  Bay  (La  Poile),  Rose  Blanche  Channel,  and  Sydnev.  T^nrss  (meals 
Included)  to  Bay-de-Verds  or  Ferry  land,  10  f<  ;  Trinity  or  Plao  .fia,  20  s.; 
Catalina  or  Burin,  20  b.  :  Fogo  or  St.  Pierre,  32  s.  6d. ;  Tilt  Cove,  40«.;  Rose 
Blanche,  50 s.  ;  Sydney,  70s.  These  steamships  to  the  Northern  and  Western  out- 
ports  leave  about  every  ten  ^ays,  and  connect  with  the  Hercules  for  Labrador. 
The  Vnletta  and  PoHno  run  from  St.  John's  to  Pictou  and  Montreal  every  fort- 
night, in  summer.  The  Cromwell  Line  runs  fortnightly  steamships  from  St.  John's 
to  Halifax  and  New  York.  The  Allan-Line  steamships  run  from  Baltimore  or  Hali- 
&x  to  St.  John's  fortnightly ;  ^nd  thence  continue  on  to  Liverpool. 

St.  John's,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Newfoundland,  is  situated  in 
latitude  47'  33'  6"  N.,  and  longitude  52'  44'  7"  W.,  and  is  built  on  the 
slope  of  a  long  hill  which  rises  from  the  shore  of  a  deep  and  secure  har- 
bor. At  the  time  of  the  census  of  1£69  there  were  22,555  inhabitants  in 
the  city  (there; are  now  over  35,000):  but  the  population,  owing  to  the 
peculiar  character  of  its  chief  industry,  is  liable  at  any  time  to  be  in- 
creased or  diminished  by  several  thousand  men.  The  greater  part  of  the 
citizens  are  connected  with  the  fisheries,  directly  or  indirectly,  and  large 
teets  are  despatched  from  the  port  throughout  the  season.  Their  return, 
Oi*  the  arrival  of  the  sealing-steamers,  with  their  great  crews,  brings  new 
life  to  the  streets,  and  oftentimes  results  in  such  general  "  rows  "  as  re- 
quire the  attendance  of  a  large  police-force.  The  interests  of  the  city  are 
all  with  the  sea,  from  which  are  drawn  its  revenues,  and  over  which  pass 
the  fleets  which  bring  in  provisions  from  the  Provinces  and  States  to  the 
S.  W.  The  manufactures  of  St.  John's  are  insignificant,  and  consist,  for 
the  most  part,  of  biscuit-bakeries  and  oil-refineries  (on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  harbor).  An  immense  business  is  done  by  the  mercantile  houses 
on  Water  St.  in  furnishing  supplies  to  the  outports  (a  term  applied  to  all 
the  other  ports  of  Newfoundland  except  St.  .John's);  and  one  firm  alone 
has  a  trade  amounting  to  $  12,000,000  a  year.  For  about  one  month, 
during  the  busy  season,  the  streets  are  absolutely  crowded  with  the  people 
from  the  N.  and  W.  coasts,  selling  their  fish  and  oil,  and  laying  in  pro- 
visions and  other  supplies  for  the  ensuing  year.  The  commercial  interests 
are  served  by  three  banks  and  a  chamber  of  commerce ;  and  the  literary 
standard  of  society  is  maintained  by  the  St.  John's  Athenaeum  and  the 
Catholic  Institute.  The  city  is  supplied  with  gas,  and  water  is  brought 
in  from  a  lake  4^  M.  distant,  by  works  which  cost  $  360,000. 

'•  In  trying  to  describe  St.  John's,  there  is  some  difficulty  in  applying  an  adjec- 
tive to  it  sufficiently  distinctive  and  appropriate.  We  And  other  cities  coupled  with 
words  which  at  once  give  their  predominant  characteristic:  London  the  richest, 
Paris  the  gayest,  St.  Petersburg  the  coldest.  In  one  respect  the  chief  town  of  New- 
foundland has,  I  believe,  no  rival ;  we  may,  therefore,  call  it  the  fishiest  of  modern 
capitals.  Round  a  great  part  of  the  harbor  are  sheds,  acres  in  extent,  roofed  with 
ood  split  in  half,  laid  on  like  slates,  drying  in  the  sun,  or  rather  the  air,  for  there  is 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


R&uteSS.      191 


Bay  Bullfi  and 
ral  of  the  Halir- 

I,  King's  CoTe, 
Mlt  Cove,  Bett'B 
wse,  Trepassey, 
s,  Great  Jervois, 
r.  Fnras  (meals 
1ac>  tia,  20  b.; 
ve,  40«.;  Rose 
nd  Western  out- 
8  for  Labrador, 
treal  every  fbrt- 
I  from  St.  John's 
Itimore  or  Hali- 

,  is  situated  in 
is  built  on  the 
nd  secure  har- 
inhabitants  in 
i,  owing  to  the 
time  to  be  in- 
ater  part  of  the 
Bctly,  and  large 
Their  return, 
ws,  brings  new 
"rows"  as  re- 
of  the  city  are 
ver  which  pass 
States  to  the 
and  consist,  for 
,e  opposite  side 
rcantile  houses 
applied  to  all 
one  firm  alone 
)ut  one  month, 
with  the  people 
laying  in  pro- 
nercial interests 
,nd  the  literary 
naeum  and  the 
ater  is  brought 


ipplyiTig  an  adjec- 
Ities  coupled  wlta 
adon  the  richest, 
tiieftown  of  Now- 
fishiest  of  modern 
stent,  roofed  with 
le  «ir,  for  there  is 


not  much  of  the  former  to  depend  npon The  town  is  irregular  and  dirty,  built 

chiefly  of  wood,  the  dampness  of  the  climate  rendering  stone  unsuitable."  (Kuc^ 

WARBirRTON.) 

The  harbor  is  small,  but  deep,  and  is  so  thoroughly  landlocked  that  the 
water  is  always  smooth.  Here  may  generally  be  seen  two  or  three  British 
and  French  frigates,  and  at  the  close  of  the  season  these  narrow  waters  are 
well  filled  with  the  vessels  of  the  fishing-fleets  and  the  powerful  sealing- 
steamers.  Along  the  shores  are  the  fish-stages,  where  immense  quantities 
of  cod,  herring,  and  salmon  are  cured  and  made  ready  for  exportation. 
On  the  S.  shore  are  several  wharves  right  under  the  cliffs,  and  also  a  float- 
ing dock  which  takes  up  vessels  of  800  tons'  burden.  The  entrance  to  the 
harbor  is  called  the  *  Narrows,  and  is  a  stupendous  cleft  in  the  massive 
ridge  which  lines  the  coast.  It  is  about  1,800  ft.  long,  and  at  its  narrow- 
est point  is  but  660  ft.  wide.  On  either  side  rise  precipitous  walls  of  sand- 
stone and  conglomerate,  of  which  Signal  Hill  (on  the  N.  side)  reaches  an 
altitude  of  620  ft.,  and  the  southern  ridge  is  nearly  700  ft.  high.  Vessels 
coming  in  from  the  ocean  are  unable  to  see  the  Narrows  until  close  upon 
it,  .1  steer  for  the  lofty  block-house  on  Signal  Hill.  The  points  at  the 
«  i!  ,  e  were  formerly  well  fortified,  and  during  war-time  the  harbor  was 
Closed  by  a  chain  drawn  across  the  Narrows,  but  the  batteries  are  now  in 
a  neglected  condition,  and  are  nearly  disarmed. 

The  city  occupies  the  rugged  hill  on  the  N.  of  the  harbor,  and  is  built 
on  three  parallel  streets,  connected  by  steep  side-streets.  The  houses  are 
mostly  low  and  unpainted  wooden  buildings,  crowding  out  on  the  side- 
walks, and  the  general  appearance  is  that  of  poverty  and  thriftlessness. 
Even  the  wealthy  merchants  generally  occupy  houses  far  beneath  their 
station,  since  they  seem  to  regard  Newfoundland  as  a  place  to  get  for- 
tunes in  and  then  retire  to  England  to  make  their  homes.  This  prin- 
ciple was  universally  acted  on  in  former  years,  but  latterly  pleasant  villas 
are  being  erected  in  the  suburbs,  and  a  worthier  architectural  appearance 
is  desired  and  expected  for  the  ancient  capital.  Water  Street  is  the  main 
business  thoroughfare,  and  follows  the  curves  of  the  harbcr- shore  for  about 
1^  M.  Its  lower  side  is  occupied  by  the  great  mercantile  houses  which 
supply  "fish-and-fog-land"  with  provisions,  clothing,  and  household  re- 
quirements; and  the  upper  side  is  lined  with  an  alternation  of  cheap  shops 
and  liquor-saloons.  In  the  N.  part  is  the  Custom  Home,  and  near  the  cen- 
tre is  the  spacious  building  of  the  Market-Hall  and  the  Post-Office.  To  the 
S.,  Water  Street  connects  with  the  causeway  and  bridge  of  boats  which 
crosses  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Admonished  by  several  disastrous  fires, 
the  city  has  caused  Water  St.  to  be  built  upon  in  a  substantial  manner, 
and  the  stores,  though  very  plain,  are  solidly  and  massively  constructed. 

The  Anglican  Cathedral  stands  about  midway  up  the  hill,  over  the 
old  burying-ground.  It  was  planned  by  Sir  Gilbert  Scott,  the  most  emi- 
nent British  architect  of  the  present  era,  ani  is  in  the  early  English  Gothic 


I      *1 


i 


1^    ^'1 


I1 1 


192      Route  Si, 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


architecture.  Owing  to  the  inahility  of  the  Church  to  raise  sufficient  funds 
(for  the  missions  at  the  outports  demand  all  her  revenues),  the  cathedral 
is  but  partly  finished,  but  since  1880  much  work  has  been  done  upon  it, 
largely  by  fishermen  volunteers.  The  lofty  proportions  of  the  interior 
and  the  fine  Gothic  colonnades  of  stone  between  the  nave  and  aisles, 
together  with  the  high  lancet-windows,  form  a  pleasant  picture. 

The  *  Roman  Catholio  Cathedral  is  the  most  stately  building  in  New- 
foundland, and  occupies  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  commanding  a  noble  *  view 
over  the  city  and  harbor  and  adjacent  countrj',  and  looking  through  the 
Narrows  on  to  the  open  sea.  The  prospect  from  the  cathedral  terrace  on 
a  moonlight  night  or  at  the  time  of  a  clear  sunrise  or  sunset  is  especially 
to  be  commended.  In  the  front  part  of  the  grounds  is  a  colossal  statue  of 
St.  Peter,  and  other  large  statues  are  seen  near  the  building.  The  cathe- 
dral is  an  immense  stone  structure,  with  twin  towers  on  the  front,  and  is 
surrounded  with  a  long  internal  corridor,  or  cloister.  There  are  no  aisles, 
but  tlie  whole  building  is  thrown  into  a  broad  nave,  from  which  the  tran- 
septs diverge  to  N.  and  S.  The  stone  of  which  it  is  constructed  was 
brought  from  Conception  Bay  and  from  Dunleary,  Ireland,  and  the  walls 
were  raised  by  the  free  and  voluntary  labors  of  the  people.  Clustered 
about  the  cathedral  are  the  Bishop's  Palace,  the  convent  and  its  schools, 
and  St.  Bonaventure's  Colleje  (5  professors),  where  the  missionaries  are 
disciplined  and  the  Catholic  youth  are  taught  in  the  higher  branches  of 
learning. 

Catholicism  vras  founded  on  the  island  by  Sir  George  Calvert  (see  Route  64)  and 
by  the  Bishop  of  Quebec  ;  euffered  persecution  from  1762  to  178l,  when  all  priests 
were  banished  (though  some  returned  in  disguise) ;  and  afterwards  gained  the  chief 
pow^  as  a  coni-equencc  of  Irish  immigration,  upon  which  the  bishops  became  arro- 
eant  and  autocratic,  and  the  Province  was,  practically,  governed  from  Cathedral 
Hill.  The  great  pilo  of  religious  buildings  then  erected  on  this  commanding  height 
cost  over  $500,000,  and  the  present  revenues  of  the  diocese  are  princely  in  amount, 
being  collected  by  the  priests,  who  board  the  arriviug  fishing-vessels  and  assess  their 
people.    The  Irish  Catholics  form  a  great  majority  of  the  citizens  of  St.  John's. 

Near  the  cathedral  are  the  old  barracks  of  the  Royal  Newfoundland 
Companies  and  the  garrisons  from  the  British  army.  The  Military  Road 
runs  along  the  crest  of  the  heights,  and  afibrds  pleasant  views  over  the 
harbor.  On  this  road  is  the  Colonial  Building,  a  substantial  structure 
of  gray  stone,  well  retired  from  tlie  cai'riage-way,  and  adorned  with  a 
massive  portico  of  Doric  columns  upholding  a  pediment  which  is  occupied 
by  the  Royal  Arms  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  The  colonial  legislature 
meets  in  this  building,  and  occupies  plain  but  comfortable  halls.  The 
Government  House  is  N.  of  the  Colonial  Building,  and  is  the  official  man- 
sion of  the  governor  of  the  Province  (Sir  Henry  Fitzhardinge  Berkeley 
Maxse,  K.  C.  M.  G.).  It  was  built  in  1828-30,  and  cost  $240,000.  The 
surrounding  grounds  are  pleasantly  diversified  with  groves,  flower-beds, 
and  walks,  and  are  much  visited  by  the  aristocracy  of  St.  John's,  during 
the  short  but  brilliant  summer  season. 


ST.  JOHN'S. 


JtouteSfS.      193 


ufficient  funds 
the  cathedral 
done  upon  it, 
(f  the  interior 
ve  and  aisles, 
ure. 

lilding  in  New- 
a  noble  *  view 
ng  through  the 
iral  terrace  on 
3t  is  especially 
lossal  statue  of 
ig.    The  cathe- 
he  front,  and  is 
re  are  no  aisles, 
(vhich  the  tran- 
onstructed  was 
i,  and  the  walls 
)pie.    Clustered 
and  its  schools, 
missionaries  are 
[her  branches  of 

gee  Route  54)  and 
:,  when  all  priests 
s  gained  the  cliief 
lops  became  arro- 
d  from  Cathedral 
)mmanding  height 
rincely  in  amount, 
il8  and  assess  their 
of  St.  John's. 

1  Newfoundland 
e  Military  Road 
;  views  over  the 
antial  structure 
adorned  with  a 
lich  is  occupied 
onial  legislature 
ible  halls.    The 

=he  official  man- 
•dinge  Berkeley 
$240,000.  The 
^es,  flower-beds, 
John's,  during 


Passing  ont  through  the  poor  suburb  called  "  Maggotty  Cove,"  a  walk 
of  about  20  n>inute3  leads  to  the  top  of  *  Signal  Hill. 

"  High  above,  on  our  r.,  a  ruined  monolith,  on  a  mountain-peak  (Crow's  Nest), 
marl(8  the  site  of  an  old  battery,  while  to  the  1.,  sunk  iu  a  hollow,  a  black  bog  lies 
sheltered  amid  the  bare  bones  of  mother  earth,  here  mainly  composed  of  dark  red 
sandstones  and  conglomerate,  passing  down  by  regular  gradations  to  the  slate  below. 
A  sudden  turn  of  the  road  reveals  a  deep  solitary  tarn,  some  330  ft.  above  the  sea, 
in  which  the  guardian  rocks  reflect  their  purple  faces,  and  where  the  ripple  of  the 
muskrat,  hurrying  across,  alone  disturbs  the  placid  surface.  We  pass  a  hideous- 
looking  barrack,  and,  crossing  the  soft  velvety  sward  on  the  crest,  reach  a  little  bat> 
tery,  from  the  parapets  of  which  we  look  down,  down,  almost  500  ft.  perpendicu- 
larly, right  into  '  the  Narrows,'  the  strait  or  creek  between  the  hills  connecting  the 
broad  Atlantic  with  the  oval  harbor  within.  The  great  south-side  liills,  covered 
with  luxuriant  wild  vegetation,  and  skeined  with  twisting  torrents,  loom  across  the 
strait  so  close  that  one  might  fancy  it  almost  possible  a  stone  could  fly  from  the 
hand  to  the  opposite  shore.  On  our  left  the  vast  ocean,  with  nothing  —  not  a  rock 
—  between  us  and  Galway ;  on  our  right,  at  the  other  end  of  the  narrow  neck  of 
water  directly  beneath,  the  inner  basin,  expanding  toward?  the  city,  with  tlie  back- 
ground of  blue  hills  as  a  setting  to  the  picture,  broken  on.y  in  their  continuous  out- 
line by  the  twin  towers  of  the  Catholic  cathedral,  ever  thus  from  all  points  perform- 
ing their  mission  of  conspicuity.  Right  below  us,  400  ;t.  perpendicular,  we  leaa 
over  the  grass  parapet  and  look  carefully  down  into  the  little  battery  guarding  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  entering-strait,  where,  in  the  old  wars,  heavy  chains  strctehed 

from  shore  to  shore The  Narrows  are  full  of  fishing-boats  returning  with  the 

silver  spoils  of  the  day  glistening  in  the  hold  of  the  smacks,  which,  to  the  number 
of  forty  or  fifty  at  a  time,  tack  and  fill  like  a  fleet  of  white  swans  against  the  western 
evening  breeze.  Even  as  we  look  down  on  the  decks,  they  come,  and  still  tliey  come, 
round  the  bluff  point  of  Fort  Amherst,  from  the  bay  outside."  (Lt.-CoL.  McCrea.) 

"After  dinner  we  set  off  for  Signal  Hill,  the  grand  observatory  of  the  country, 

both  by  nature  and  art Little  rills  rattled  by ;  paths  wound  among  rocky 

notches  and  grassy  chasms,  and  led  out  to  dizzy  '  over-looks '  and  '  short-offs.'  The 
town  with  its  tliousand  smokes  sat  in  a  kind  of  amphitheatre,  and  seemed  to  etgoy 

the  spectacle  of  sails  a  d  colors  in  the  harbor We  struck  into  a  fine  military 

road,  and  passed  spacious  stone  barracks,  soldiers  and  soldiers'  families,  goats  and 
little  gardens.  From  the  observatory,  situated  on  the  craggy  peninsula,  both  ^e 
ruggedinterior  and  the  expanse  of  ocean  were  before  us."  (Noble.) 


"  Britones  et  Normani  anno  a  Christo  nato  MCCCCCIIII.  has  terras  invenere  " ; 
and  iu  August,  1527,  14  sail  of  Norman,  Breton,  and  Portuguese  vessels  were  shel- 
tered in  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  In  1542  the  Sieur  de  Roberval,  Viceroy  of  New 
i'rance,  entered  here  with  3  ships  and  200  colonists  bound  for  Quebec.  He  found  17 
vessels  at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  soon  afterward  there  arrived  Jacques  Cartier 
and  the  Quebec  colonists,  discouraged,  and  returning  to  France.  Roberval  ordered 
him  back,  but  he  stole  out  of  the  harbor  during  the  darkness  of  night  and  returned 
to  France.  A  few  years  later  the  harbor  was  visited  by  the  exploring  ship  Mary  of 
Guilford,  and  the  reverend  Canon  of  8t  Paul,  who  had  undertaken  the  unpriestly 
function  of  a  discoverer,  sent  hence  a  chronicle  of  the  voyage  to  Cardinal  Wolsey. 

In  August,  1583,  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  (see  page  135)  entered  the  harbor  of  St. 
John's,  with  a  t^eet  consisting  of  the  Delight,  Goltten  Hind,  Swcdiow,  and  Squirrel. 
He  took  formal  possession  of  the  port  and  of  the  island  of  Newfoundland,  receiving 
the  ot)edience  of  36  ship-masters  then  in  the  harbor.  But  the  adventurous  mari- 
ners were  discontented  with  the  rudeness  of  the  country,  and  the  learned  Parme- 
nius  wrote  back  to  Hakluyt:  "  My  good  Hakluyt,  of  the  manner  of  this  country 
what  shall  I  say,  when  I  see  nothing  but  a  very  wildernesse."  In  view  of  the  date 
of  Gilbert's  occupation,  Newfoundland  claims  the  proud  distinction  of  being  the 
most  ancient  colony  of  the  British  Empire.  In  1584  St.  John's  was  visited  by  the 
fleet  of  Sir  Francis  Drake,  which  had  swept  the  adjacent  seas  and  left  a  line  of  burn- 
ing wrecks  behind. 

In  1696  the  town  was  so  strongly  guarded  that  it  easily  repulsed  the  Chevalier 
Nesmond,  who  attacked  it  with  ten  £*rench  men-of-war.  The  expedition  of  the 
daring  Iberville  was  more  sucoessfhl,  and  occupied  the  place.    In  November,  1704, 

9  M 


IH     Jt<yute  6B. 


ST.  JOHN'a 


a  fleet  teom  Qtiebee  landed  a  Trencli  and  Indian  force  at  Placentla,  whence  they 
adTanced  about  the  middle  of  Januaiy.  They  were  about  400  strong,  and  crossed 
the  Peninsula  of  Avalon  on  snow-shoes.  The  town  of  Bay  Bulls  {BebouUe)  surren- 
dered  on  their  approach,  and  a  long  and  painful  midwinter  march  ensued,  over  the 
mountains  and  through  the  deep  snows.  The  French  militia  of  Placentia  were  sent 
in  at  dawn  to  surprise  the  fort  at  St.  John's,  but  could  not  enter  the  works  for  lack 
of  scaling-ladders ;  so  they  contented  themselTes  with  occupying  the  town  and 
Quiddy  Yiddy.  The  fort  was  now  besieged  for  83  days,  in  a  reason  of  intense  cold, 
when  even  the  harbor  was  frozen  over ;  but  the  English  held  out  valiantly,  and 
showered  balls  and  bombs  upon  the  town,  finally  succeeding  in  dislodging  the  en- 
emy and  putting  them  in  full  retreat. 

In  June,  1762,  the  Count  d'Hausonyille  entered  the  Bay  Bulls  with  a  powerful 
French  fleet,  consisting  of  the  Robvsle,  74 ;  VEveilli,  64 ;  La  Garonne,  44 ;  and 
la  Lieome,  SO.  He  escorted  Beveral  transports,  whence  1,500  soldiers  were  landed. 
This  force  marched  on  St.  John's,  which  surrendered  on  summons,  together  with 
the  English  frigate  Grammont.  Lord  Colville's  fleet  hastened  up  from  Halifax  and 
blockaded  Admiral  De  Ternay  in  the  harbor  of  St.  John,  vthile  land  forces  were  de- 
barked at  Torbay  and  Quiddy  Yiddy.  The  last-named  detachment  (Royal  Ameri- 
cans and  Highlanders)  proceeded  to  storm  the  works  on  Signal  Hill,  but  the  French 
fought  desperately,  and  held  them  at  bay  until  the  English  forces  from  Torbay  came 
In  and  succeeded  in  carrying  the  entire  line  of  heights.  In  the  mean  time,  a  dense 
fog  had  settled  over  the  coast,  under  whose  protection  De  Ternay  led  his  squadrnn 
through  the  British  line  of  blockade,  and  gained  the  open  sea.  In  1796  a  formidable 
French  fleet,  under  Admiral  Richery  (consisting  of  7  line-of-battle  shi'ps  and  several 
frigates),  menacfed  St.  John's,  then  commanded  by  Admiral  Sir  James  Wallace. 
Strong  batteries  were  erected  along  the  Narrows ;  fire-ships  were  drawn  up  in  the 
harbor ;  a  chain  was  stretched  across  the  entrance ;  and  the  entire  body  of  the 
people  was  called  under  arms.  The  hostile  fleet  blockaded  the  port  for  many  days, 
but  was  kept  at  bay  by  the  batteries  on  Signal  Hill ;  and  after  an  ineffectual  attempt 
at  attack,  sailed  away  to  the  S.  Feb.  12,  1816,  a  disastrous  fire  occurred  at  St. 
John's,  by  which  1,500  persons  were  left  homeless  ;  and  great  suffering  would  have 
ensued  had  it  not  been  for  the  citizens  of  Boston,  who  despatched  a  ship  loaded  with 

8 revisions  and  clothing  for  gratuitous  distribution  among  the  impoverished  people, 
ov.  7,  1817,  another  terrible  fire  occurred  here,  by  which  $2,000,000  worth  of 
property  was  destroyed ;  and  this  was  followed,  within  2  weeks,  by  a  third  dis- 
astrous conflagration.  This  succession  of  calamities  came  near  resulting  in  the 
abandonment  of  the  colony,  and  the  people  were  goaded  by  hunger  to  a  succession 
of  deeds  of  crime  and  to  organized  violations  of  the  laws.  In  1825  the  first  highway 
was  built  (from  St.  John's  to  Portugal  Cove) ;  in  1833  the  first  session  of  the  Colonial 
Parliament  was  held ;  and  the  first  steamship  in  the  Newfoundland  waters  arrived 
here  in  1840. 

In  1860  the  city  was  convulsed  by  a  terrible  riot,  arising  f^om  politico-religious 
causes,  and  threatening  wide  ruin.  An  immense  mob  of  armed  Irishmen  attacked 
and  pillaged  the  stores  on  Water  St.,  and  filled  the  lower  town  with  rapine  and  rob- 
bery. The  ancient  organization  called  the  Royal  Newfoundland  Companies  was 
ordered  out  and  posted  near  the  Market  House,  where  the  troops  suffered  for  hours 
the  gibes  of  the  plunderers,  until  they  were  fired  upon  in  the  twilight,  when 
they  returned  a  point-blank  volley,  which  caused  a  sad  carnage  in  the  insurgent 
crowd.  Then  the  great  Cathedral  bells  rang  out  wildly,  and  su.nmoned  all  the 
rioters  to  that  building,  where  the  Bishop  exhorted  them  to^  peace  and  forbearance, 
under  pain  of  excommunication.  After  a  remarkable  interview,  the  next  day,  be- 
tween the  Bishop  and  Gov.  Sir  Alexander  Bannerman,  this  tragical  revolt  was 
ended. 

In  1870  St.  John's  had  21  sailing-vessels  and  6  steamers  engaged  in  the  sealing 
business,  and  their  crews  amounted  to  1  584  men.  In  1869>(tbe  latest  accessible 
■tatistics)  688  vessels,  with  a  tonnage  of  109,043  tons,  and  employing  5,466  men,  en- 
tered this  port ;  and  in  the  same  year  there  were  cleared  hence  677  vessels,  with 
4,937  men. 

The  new  railroad,  the  first  to  be  built  in  Newfbundland.  now  runs  firom  St 
John's  to  Holyrood,  65  M.,  and  to  Harbor  Grace.  It  is  being  built  by  a  New- York 
companv,  and  will  be  extended  as  rapidly  as  possible  to  the  copper-mines  at  Hall's 
Bay,  840  M.  distant,  opening  up  a  valuable  mining  and  farming  country.  It  will 
cost  88,000,000,  and  the  company  receives  a  subsidy  of  $186,000  a  year  for  86 
years,  and  a  land-grant  of  1,7QO,OW  acres. 


PORTUGAL  COVK 


Jioute  53,      195 


k,  whence  they 
g,  and  crossed 
^ouUe)  Burren- 
asued.over  the 
entia  were  sent 
!  works  lor  lack 

the  town  and 
of  interne  cold, 

valiantly,  and 
slodging  the  en- 

vith  a  powerftil 
ironne,  44 ;  and 
'.n  were  landed. 
8,  together  with 
■om  Halifax  and 
i  forces  were  de- 
t  (Roval  Amerl- 
,  but  the  French 
rom  Torbay  came 
an  time,  a  dense 
led  his  squadron 
l796  a  formidable 
Bhiys  and  several 
•  James  Wallace, 
ilrawn  up  in  the 
itire  body  of  the 
t  for  many  days, 
leffcctual  attempt 
B  occurred  at  St. 
ering  would  have 
i  ship  loaded  with 
overished  people. 
000,000  worth  of 
by  a  third  dis- 

resulting  in  the 
er  to  a  succession 

the  first  highway 
on  of  the  Colonial 
ad  waters  arrived 

politico-religious 
rishmen  attacked 
ti  rapine  and  rob- 
d  Companies  was 
suffered  for  hours 
le  twilight,  when 

in  the  insurgent 
Uinmoned  all  the 

and  forbearance, 
the  next  day,  he- 
•agical  revolt  was 

ed  in  the  sealing 

e  latest  accessible 

ng  6,466  men,  en- 

577  vessels,  with 

ow  runs  firom  St 
It  by  a  New-York 
(r-mines  at  HAH'a 
country.  It  will 
000  a  year  for  86 


5a  The  Environs  of  St  John's. 

"  On  either  side  of  the  city  of  St.  John's,  stretching  in  a  semicircle  along  the  rag- 
ged coast,  at  an  average  radius  from  the  centre  of  7  or  8  M.,  a  number  of  little  flsh- 
ing-coves  or  bays  attract,  during  the  sweet  and  enjoyable  summer,  all  persons  who 
can  command  the  use  of  a  horse  to  revel  in  their  beauties.  Each  little  bay  is  but  a 
slice  of  the  high  clitfj  scooped  out  by  the  friction  of  the  mighty  pressure  of  the  At- 
lantic waves ;  and  leading  down  to  its  shingled  beach,  each  boasts  of  a  lovely  green 
valley  through  which  infallibly  a  tumbling  noisy  trout-burn  pours  back  the  waters 
evaporated  from  the  parent  surface."    (Lt.-Col.  McCrea) 

The  country  about  the  capital  is  not  naturally  productive,  but  has  been  made  to 
bring  forth  fruit  and  vegetables  by  careful  labor,  and  now  supports  a  considerable 
farming  population.  The  roads  are  fine,  being  for  the  most  part  macadamized  and 
free  from  mud.  8  M.  beyond  the  city  is  the  Lunatic  Asylum,  pleasantly  situated  in 
a  small  forest. 

Quiddy-  Vtddy  Lake  is  frequently  visited  by  the  people  of  St.  John's. 
The  favorite  drive  is  to  Portugal  Cove,  over  a  road  that  has  been  de- 
scribed as  possessing  a  *'sad  and  desolate  beauty."  This  road  passes  the 
^^nd8or  Lake,  or  Twenty-Mile  Pond,  "  a  large  picturesque  sheet  of  water, 
with  some  pretty,  lonely-looking  islands.*'  The  inn  at  Pokugal  Cove 
looks  out  on  a  handsome  cascade,  and  is  a  favorite  goal  for  wedding-tours 
from  St.  John's.    Barges  run  from  St.  John's  to  Topsail. 

"  The  scenery  about  Portugal  Cove  well  repays  the  ride  of  nearly  10  M.  on  a  good 
road  from  St.  John-s.  It  is  wildly  romantic,  and  just  before  entering  the  village  is 
very  beautiful.  A  succession  of  lofty  hills  on  each  side  tower  over  the  road,  and 
shut  out  everything  but  their  conical  or  mammillated  peaks,  covered  with  wild 
stunted  forest  and  bold  masses  of  rock,  breaking  througli  with  a  tiny  waterfall  from 
the  highest,  which  in  winter  hangs  down  in  perpendicular  ridges  of  yellow  ice. 
Turning  suddenly  out  of  one  of  the  wildest  scenes,  you  cross  a  little  bridge,  and  the 
romantic  scattered  village  is  hanging  over  the  abrupt  rocky  shore,  with  its  fish-flakes 
and  busy  little  anchorage  open  to  the  sight,  closed  in  the  distance  by  the  shores  of 
Conception  Bay,  lofty  and  blue,  part  of  which  are  concealed  by  the  picturesque  Belle 
Isle."    (.Sir  R.  Boxnycastls.) 

"  On  approaching  Portugal  Cove,  the  eye  is  struck  by  the  serrated  and  picturesque 
outline  of  the  hills  which  run  along  the  coast  from  it  towards  Cape  St.  Francis, 
and  presently  delighted  with  the  wild  beauty  of  the  little  valley  or  glen  at  the  mouth 
of  which  the  cove  is  situated.  The  road  winds  with  several  turns  down  the  side  of 
the  valley,  into  which  some  small  brooks  hurry  their  waters,  flashing  in  the  sun- 
shine as  they  leap  over  the  rocks  and  down  the  ledges,  through  the  dark  green  of 
the  woods.  On  turning  the  shoulder  of  one  of  the  hill-slopes,  the  view  opens  upon 
Conception  Bay,  with  the  rocky  points  of  the  cove  immediately  below."    (Paor. 

JUKSS.) 

Another  favorite  excursion  is  to  Virginia  Water,  the  former  summer 
residence  of  the  governors  of  Newfoundland.  It  is  reached  by  way  of 
the  King's  Bridge  and  the  pretty  little  Quiddy- Viddy  Lake,  beyond  which 
the  Ballyhaly  Bog  is  crossed,  and  the  carriage  reaches  the  secluded  domain 
of  Virginia  Water*.  It  is  situated  on  a  beautiful  lake  of  deep  water,  3  M. 
in  circumference,  "  indented  with  little  grass-edged  bays,  fringed  and 
feathered  to  the  limpid  edge  with  dark  dense  woods."  Beyond  this  point 
the  drive  may  be  protracted  to  Ijogie  Bay,  a  small  cove  between  projecting 
cliiTs,  with  bold  and  striking  shore  scenery.  Logie  Bay  is  4  M.,  and  Tor- 
bay  is  8  -  9  M.  from  St.  John's,  by  a  fine  road  which  crosses  the  h?  jfh  and 
mossy  barrens,  and  affords  bro'id  sea-views  from  the  cliffs.  The  cou.''.try 
is  thinly  settled,  and  is  crossed  by  several  trout-brooks. 


I 


rr 


196     R(mte64. 


TORBAY. 


Logie  Bay  is  remarkable  fbr  the  wlldness  of  its  rook  and  cliff  Hcenery.  "  Nothing 
like  a  beach  is  to  hf  found  anywheie  on  this  coast,  the  descent  to  the  sea  being 
always  difficult  and  generally  impracticable.  In  Lo^e  Bay  the  thick-bedded  dark 
sandstones  and  conglonietates  stand  bold  and  bare  in  round>topped  hills  and  preci- 
pices 3  -  400  ft.  in  height,  with  occasional  fissures  traversing  their  jagged  cliffs, 
and  the  boi>ing  waves  of  the  Atlantic  curling  around  their  feet  in  white  eddies  or 
leaping  against  their  sides  with  hujje  spouts  of  founi  and  spray."    (Prop.  Jukes.) 

"Torbay  Is  an  arm  of  the  pea.  —  a  short,  strong  arm  with  a  slim  hand  and  finger, 
reaching  into  the  rocky  land  and  touching  the  waterfalls  and  rapids  of  ii  pretty 
brook.  Here  is  a  little  village,  with  Romish  and  Protestant  steeples,  and  the  dwell- 
ings of  fishermen,  with  the  universal  appendages  of  fi8hing-hou.«cs,  boats,  and  flakes. 
One  seldom  looks  upon  a  hamlet  so  picturesque  and  wild."  On  the  N.  shore  of  the 
bay  is  a  long  line  of  cliffs,  3-400  ft.  high,  surf-beaten  and  migestic.  and  finely 
ot'Served  by  taking  a  boat  out  from  Torbay  and  roasting  to  the  N.  "At  one  point, 
where  the  rocks  recede  from  the  main  front  and  form  a  kind  of  headland,  the  strata, 
6-8  ft.  thick,  assume  the  form  of  a  pyramid,  from  a  broad  ba.'^e  of  a  hundred  yards 
or  more  running  up  to  meet  in  a  point.  The  heart  of  this  vast  rave  has  partly 
fiillen  out,  and  left  the  resemblance  of  ar  enormous  tent  with  cavernous  reresses 
and  halls,  in  which  the  shades  of  evening  were  already  lurking,  and  the  surf  was 
sounding  mournfully.  Occasionally  it  was  musical,  pealing  forth  like  the  low  tones 
of  a  great  organ  with  awful  solemnity.  Now  and  then,  the  gloomy  silence  of  a  min- 
ute was  broken  by  the  crash  of  a  billow  far  within,  when  the  reverberations  were 
like  the  slamming  of  great  doors." 

••  After  passing  this  grand  specimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  sea,  there  appeared 
long  rocky  reached,  like  Egyptian  temples,  old  dead  cliffs  of  yellowish  gray  checked 
off  by  lines  and  seams  into  squares,  and  having  the  resemblance,  where  they  have 
fiillen  out  into  the  ocean,  of  doors  and  windows  opening  in  upon  the  fresher  stone." 
(NOBLB.)  ■  n    ,_ 

54.  The  Strait  Shore  of  Avalon.— St.  John's  to  Cape  Bace. 

That  portion  of  the  Peninsula  of  Avalon  which  fronts  to  the  eastward  on  the 
Atlantic  has  been  tei'med  the  Strait  Shore,  on  account  of  its  generally  undeviating 
line  of  direction.  Its  outports  may  be  visited  either  by  the  Friday  mail-con- 
veyance, through  Petty  Harbor,  Bay  Bulls,  Ferryland,  and  Renewse,  or  by  the 
Western  Coastal  steamer  (sec  Route  60). 

Distances  by  Koad.  — St.  John's  to  Blackhead,  4  M.j  Petty  Haibor,  10; 
Bay  Bulls,  19 ;  Witless  Bay,  22 ;  Mobile,  24 ;  Toad  Cove,  26 ;  La  Manche,  32 ; 
Brigus,  34;  Cape  Broyle,  38;  Caplin  Cove,  42;  Ferryland,  44 ;  Aquafort,  48;  Fer- 
meuse,  51 ;  Renewse,  54  ;  Cape  Race,  64. 

"  The  road,  one  of  the  finest  I  ever  saw,  —  an  old-fashioned  English  gravel-road, 
smooth  and  hard  almost  as  iron,  a  very  luxury  for  the  wheels  of  a  springless  wagon, 
—  keeps  up  the  bed  of  a  small  river,  a  good-sized  trout-stream,  flowing  from  the  in- 
land valley  mto  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  Contrasted  with  the  bold  re^iions  that 
firont  the  ocean,  these  valleys  are  soft  and  fertile.  We  passed  smooth  meadows,  and 
sloping  plough-lands,  and  green  pastures,  and  bouses  peeping  out  of  pretty  groves. 
One  might  hrve  called  it  a  Canadian  or  New-Hampshire  vale.' '  The  road  pa.s.'^cs 
several  l!>.keli3ts  and  trout-streams,  and  gives  fine  views  of  the  ocean  on  the  1. ,  being 
also  one  of  the  most,  smooth  and  firmly  built  of  highways.  "  No  nation  makes  such 
roads  as  these,  in  a  land  bristling  with  rugged  difficulties,  that  has  not  wound  its 
way  up  to  the  summit  of  power  and  cultivation."  The  hills  along  the  coast  closely 
resemble  the  Cordillera  peaks ;  and  from  the  bald  summits  on  the  W,,  Trinity  Bay 
may  be  seen. 

The  mail-road  running  S.  from  St.  John's  passes  Waterford  Bridge  and 
goon  approaches  Blackhead,  a  Catholic  village  near  an  iron-bound  shore 
whose  greaJt  cliffs  have  been  worn  into  fantastic  shapes  by  the  crash  and 
attrition  of  the  Atlantic  surges.  Near  this  place  is  Cape  Spear,  the  most 
easterly  point  of  North  America,  1,656  M.  from  Valentia  Bay,  in  Ireland. 
On  the  summit  of  the  cape,  264  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  a  red-and-white  striped 
tower  sustaining  a  revolving  light  which  is  visible  for  22  M. 


BAT  BULLS. 


JtouUSl      197 


The  road  now  passes  between  *'  woody  banks  rnnnlng  through  an  un- 
dulating country  but  half  reclairaed  on  the  r.,  while  on  the  I.  the  slopes 
stretch  up  to  the  breezy  headlands,  beyond  which  there  is  nothing  but  sea 
and  cloud  from  this  to  Europe."  Petty  Harbor  U  4  M.  S.  W.  of  Cape 
Spear  and  10  M.  from  St.  John's,  and  is  a  village  of  000  inhabitants,  with 
a  refinery  of  cod-liver  oil  and  long  lines  of  evergreen  fish-flakes.  Off  this 
point  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Tweed  was  wrecked  in  1814,  and  60  men  were 
drowned.  The  houses  of  Petty  Harbor  are  situated  in  a  narrow  glen  at 
the  foot  of  frowning  and  barren  ridges.  The  harbor  at  the  foot  of  tliij 
ravine  is  small  and  insecure.  The  dark  hills  to  the  W.  attain  a  height  of 
700  ft.  along  the  unbroken  shore  which  leads  S.  to  Bay  Bulls ;  and  at 
about  4  M.  from  Petty  Harbor  is  the  *  Spout,  a  deep  cavern  in  the  sea- 
ward cliffs,  in  whose  top  is  a  hole,  through  which,  at  high  tide  and  in  a 
heavy  sea,  the  water  shoots  up  every  half-minute  in  a  roaring  fountain 
which  is  seen  3  M.  off  at  sea.  The  road  now  approaches  lonclay  Hill  (810 
ft.  high),  the  chief  elevation  on  this  coast,  and  reaches  Bay  Bulls,  a  village 
of  700  inhabitants.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  outports,  and 
affords  a  refuge  to  vessels  that  are  unable,  on  account  of  storms  or  ice,  to 
make  the  harbor  of  St.  John's.  There  are  several  farms  near  the  bay,  but 
most  of  the  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  the  cod-fishery,  which  is  carried 
on  from  large  open  boat&.<  This  ancient  settlement  was  exposed  to  great 
vicissitudes  during  the  co»^flicts  between  the  French  and  the  English  for 
the  possession  of  Newfoundlund,  and  was  totally  destroyed  by  Admiral 
Richery  (French)  in  1796.  Fine  sporting  is  found  in  this  vicinity,  all  along 
shore,  and  shooting-parties  leave  St.  John's  during  the  season  for  sevei'aV 
days'  adventure  hereabouts. 

In  1698  the  French  frigates  Pelican,  Diamant,  Count  de  Toulouse,  Vendange, 
Philippe,  and  Harcourt  met  the  British  man-of-war  Sapphire  off  Cape  Spear,  and 
chased  it  into  Bay  Bulls.  A  naval  battle  of  several  hours'  duration  was  closed  by 
the  complete  discomfiture  of  the  British,  Avho  set  fire  to  the  shattered  Sapphire  and 
abandoned  her.  The  French  sailors  boarded  her  immediately,  but  were  destroyed 
by  the  explosion  of  the  magazine. 

Witless  Bay  is  the  next  village,  and  has  nearly  1,000  inhabitants,  with  a 
large  and  prominent  Catholic  church.  Cod-fishing  is  carried  on  to  a  great 
extent  off  this  shore,  also  off  Mobile,  the  next  settlement  to  the  S. .  Beyond 
the  rock-bound  hamlets  of  Toad  Cove,  La  Manche,  and  Brigus,  the  road 
reaches  Cape  Broyle. 

In  1628  Cape  Broyle  was  captured  by  Admiral  de  la  Rade,  with  three  French  war- 
vessels,  who  also  took  the  fishing-fleet  then  in  the  harbor.  But  Sir  Oeoi^  Calvert 
Bent  from  the  capital  of  Avalon  two  frigates  (one  of  which  carried  24  guns)  and  sev- 
eral hundred  men,  on  whose  approach  "  the  French  let  slip  their  cables,  and  made 
to  sea  as  fast  as  they  could."  Calvert's  men  retaliated  by  harrying  the  French 
stations  at  Trepassey,  where  they  captured  six  ships  of  Bayonne  and  St.  Jean 
de  Luz. 

Cape  Broyle  is  a  prosperous  fishing-settlement  on  Broyle  Harbor,  near 

tlie  mountainous  headland  of  Cape  Broyle  (652  ft  high).    There  is  good 

salmon-fishing  on  the  river  which  runs  S.  E.  to  the  harbor  from  the  foot 

ofHellHJll. 


198     RouUBl 


FERBTLAND. 


Ferryland  is  2  M.  beyond  the  Caplin-Gove  settlement,  and  is  the  capi- 
tal of  the  district  of  Ferryland.  It  has  about  700  inhabitants,  and  is  well 
located  on  level  ground  near  the  head  of  the  harbor.  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  several  prosperous  farms,  and  picturesque  scenery  surrounds 
the  harbor  on  all  sides.  To  the  S.  E.  is  Ferryland  Head,  on  which  is  a 
fixed  white  light,  200  ft.  nbovc  the  sea,  and  visible  for  16  M.  OfTthis  point 
are  the  slender  spires  of  rock  called  the  Hare's  £ars,  projecting  from  the 
sea  to  the  height  of  50  ft. 

In  1614  (16^)  Kiofic  James  I.  granted  the  great  peninsula  between  Trinity  and 
Placentia  Bays  to  Sir  Ucorgc  Calvert,  then  Secretary  of  State.  The  grantee  named 
hid  new  domain  Avalcn,  in  honor  of  tlie  district  where  CliriKtian  tradition  claims 
that  the  Gospel  was  first  preached  in  Britain  (the  present  Glastonbury).  It  was  de- 
signed to  found  here  n  Christiun  colony,  with  the  broadest  principles  of  toleration 
and  charity.  Calvert  ecnt  out  a  considerable  company  of  fettlers,  under  the  govem- 
nient  of  Capt.  Wynne,  and  a  colony  was  planted  at  Ferryland-  The  reports  sent 
bacl(  to  England  couceming  the  soil  and  productions  of  the  new  country  were  so 
favorable  that  Sir  George  Calvert  and  his  family  Foon  joined  the  colonists.  Under 
his  administration  an  equitable  government  was  established,  fortifications  were 
rrectcd,  and  other  improvements  instituted.  Lord  Baltimtre  had  but  little  pleasure 
of  his  settlement  in;Avalon.  He  found  that  he  had  been  greatly  deceived  about  the 
climate  and  the  nature  of  the  soil.  The  Puritans  also  began  to  harasR  him ;  and 
Erasmus  Stourton,onc  of  their  ministers,  not  only  preached  dissent  under  his  eyes 
at  Ferryland,  but  went  to  England  and  reported  to  the  Privy  Council  that  Balti- 
more's priests  (^aid  mass  and  had  "  all  the  other  ceremonies  of  the  Church  of  Rome, 
in  the  ample  manner  as  't  is  used  in  Spain.*'  Finally,  after  trials  by  storm  and  by 
schismatics.  Lord  Baltimore  died  (in  lt°82),  leaving  to  his  Fon  Cecil,  2d  Lord  Balti- 
more, the  honor  of  founding  Maryland,  on  the  grant  already  secured  from  the  king. 
In  that  more  favored  fouthern  clime  afterwards  arose  the  ^Tcat  city  which  com- 
memoratx's  and  honors  the  name  of  Baltimore. 

In  1637  Sir  David  Kirke  was  appointed  Count  Palatine  of  Newfoundland,  and  estab- 
lished himself  at  Ferryland.  lie  hoisted  the  royal  standard  on  the  forts,  and  main- 
tained a  strong  (and  romctimes  harsh)  rule  over  the  island.  At  the  outbreak  of  the 
English  Revolution  (1642),  Kirke's  brothers  joined  King  Charles's  forces  and  fought 
bravely  through  the  war,  while  Sir  David  strengthened  his  Newfoundland  forts  and 
established  a  powerf^il  and  well-armed  fleet.  He  offered  the  King  a  safe  asylum  in 
his  domain  ;  and  the  fiery  Prince  Rupert,  with  the  royal  Channel  fleet,  was  sailing 
to  Newfoundland  to  join  Kirke's  forces,  when  he  was  headed  off  by  the  fleet  of  the 
Commonwealth,  under  Sir  George  Ayscue.  After  the  fall  of  the  Stuarts,  Sir  David 
was  carried  to  England  in  a  vessel  of  the  Republic  (in  1661),  to  be  tried  on  various 
charges ;  but  he  bribed  Cromwell's  son  in-law,  and  was  released,  returning  to  Ferry- 
land, where  he  died  in  1656,  after  having  governed  the  island  for  over  20  years.  At 
a  later  day  this  town  became  a  port  of  some  importance,  and  was  the  scene  of  re- 
peated naval  attacks  during  the  French  wars.  In  1673  it  was  taken  and  plundered 
by  4  Dutch  frigates. 

In  1694  Ferryland  was  attacked  by  2  large  French  frigates,  carrying  90  guns, 
which  opened  a  furious  cannonade  on  the  town.  But  the  fViUiam  and  Mary,  16, 
was  lying  in  the  harbor,  with  9  merchant-ships,  and  their  crews  built  batteries  at 
the  harbor-mouth,  whence,  with  the  guns  of  the  privateer,  they  inflicted  such  dam- 
age on  the  enemy  that  they  withdrew,  after  a  5  houi's'  cannonade,  having  lost 
about  90  men.  In  1762  the  powerful  French  fleet  of  Admiral  de  Ternay  was  driven 
off  by  a  battery  on  Bois  Island. 

Aquafort  lies  S.  W.  of  Ferryland,  and  is  a  small  hamlet  situated  on  a 
long,  deep,  and  narrow  harbor  embosomed  in  lofty  hills.  The  next  settle- 
ment is  Fermeuaej  with  600  inhabitants  and  a  Catholic  church  and  convent. 
It  is  on  the  shore  of  Admiral's  Cove,  in  the  deep  and  secure  harbor  of 
Fermeuse,  and  the  people  are  engaged  in  the  cod  and  salmon  fisheries. 
Benewse  is  an  ".ncient  and  decadent  port  16  M.  S.  of  Ferryland,  situated  on 


CAPB  RACE. 


Route  64,      199 


an  IndlfTerent  harbor  which  lies  between  Bnmt  Point  and  Renewse  Head. 
8  -  4  M.  inland  are  the  nigged  hummocks  called  the  Red  Hills,  whence 
the  eastern  hill  range  runs  80  M.  N.  across  Avalon  to  Holyrood. 

6-8  M.  from  Renewse  are  the  tall  and  shaggy  hills  called  the  Batterpota, 
which  command  broad  views  over  Avalon,  and  from  Bay  Bulls  to  the  Vf.  shore  of 
Trepassey  Bay.  The  Butterpots  of  Holyrood  are  alno  Been  from  this  point ;  andProt 
Jukes  counted  80  lakes  in  sight  from  the  main  peak  (which  is  966  ft.  high). 

S.  of  this  point  extends  a  fatal  iron-bound  coast,  on  which  scores  of  vessels,  veiled 
in  impenetnible  fog  or  swept  inward  by  resistless  storms,  have  been  dashed  in  pieces. 
A  very  slight  error  in  reckoning  will  throw  vessels  bound  S.  of  Cape  Race  upon  this 
shore,  and  then,  if  the  Cape  Race  and  Ferryland  lights  are  wrapped  in  the  dense 
black  fog  peculiar  to  these  waters,  the  chances  of  disaster  are  great.  The  erection 
of  a  fog-whistle  on  the  cape  has  greatly  lessened  the  perils  of  navigation  here.  The 
ocean  steamships  An^lo-Saxon^  -Argo,  and  City  of  FAUatielphia  were  lost  on  Cape 
Race. 

Cape  Race  is  the  S.  E.  point  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  a  rugged  I'.ead- 
land  of  black  slaty  rock  thrown  up  In  vertical  strata.  It  is  provided  with 
a  powerful  light,  180  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  19  M.  The  great 
polar  current  sweeps  in  close  by  the  cape  and  turns  around  it  to  the 
W.  N.  W.,  forming,  together  with  the  ordinary  tides  and  the  bay-currents, 
a  complexity  of  streams  that  causes  many  wrecks. 

Icebergs  are  to  be  seen  off  this  shore  at  almost  all  seasons,  and  the  dense  fogMtre 
often  illumined  by  the  peculiar  white  glare  which  precedes  them.  Field-ice  is  also 
common  here  during  the  spring  and  early  summer,  but  is  easily  avoided  by  the 
warning  of  the  *'  ice  blink."  Throughout  the  summer  and  autumn  the  fog  broods 
over  this  nhore  almost  incessantly,  and  vessels  are  navig^ated  by  casting  the  lead  and 
following  the  soundings  which  are  marked  out  with  such  precision  on  the  Admi> 
ralty  charts.  6  M.  £.  of  Cape  Race  is  the  Ballard  Bank,  which  is  18  M.  long  and 
2-12  M.  wide,  with  a  depth  of  water  ofl6  -  26  fathoms. 

Cape  Riice  is  distant,  by  great-circle  sailing,  from  New  York,  1,010  M.  ;  Boston, 
820;  Portland,  779 ;  St.  John,  N.  B.,  716;  Halifax,  463;  Miramichi,  492;  Quebec, 
836 ;  Cape  Clear,  1,713 ;  Gal  way,  1,721 ;  Liverpool,  1,970. 

The  Grand  Banks  of  Newfoundland  are  about  50  M.  E.  of  Cape  Race. 
They  extend  for  4  degrees  N.  and  S.  and  5  degrees  E.  and  W.  (at  45*  N. 
latitude)  running  S.  to  a  point.  They  consist  of  vast  submerged"  sand- 
banks, on  which  the  water  is  from  30  to  60  fathoms  deep,  and  are  strewn 
with  shells.  Here  are  found  innumerable  codfish,  generally  occupying 
the  shallower  waters  over  the  sandy  bottoms,  and  feeding  on  the  shoals  of 
smaller  fish  below.  They  pass  out  into  the  deeper  waters  late  in  Novem- 
ber, but  return  to  the  Banks  in  February,  and  fatten  rapidly.  Immense 
fleets  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries  here,  and  it  is  estimated  that  over 
100,000  men  are  dependent  on  this  industry. 

Throughout  a  great  part  of  the  spring,  summer,  and  fall,  the  Grand  Banks  are 
covered  by  rarely  broken  fo^s,  through  which  falls  an  almost  incessant  slow  rain. 
Sometimes  these  fogs  are  eo  dense  that  objects  within  60  it.  are  totally  invisible,  at 
which  times  the  fishing-vessels  at  anchor  are  liable  to  be  run  down  by  the  great 
Atlantic  steamers.  The  dangerous  proximity  of  icebergs  (which  drift  across  and 
ground  on  the  Banks)  is  indicated  by  the  sudden  and  intense  coldness  which  they 
send  through  even  a  midsummer  day,  by  the  peculiar  wliite  glare  in  the  air  about 
them,  and  by  the  roaring  of  the  breakers  on  their  sides. 

It  was  on  the  Grand  Banks,  not  far  from  Cape  Race,  that  the  first  battle  of  the 
Seven  Years'  War  was  fought.    June  8, 1755,  the  British  60-gun  frigates  Dunkirk 


200     Houte  56.  THE  GRAND  BANKS. 

and  Dfjianee  were  emltdng  about  in  a  dense  tog,  when  they  met  the  French  menHif> 
war  Alr.id«  and  Lys.  For  five  houn  the  battle  continued,  and  a  continual  can- 
nonade wan  kept  up  between  the  hostile  ships.  The  French  were  oTermatched,  but 
fought  valiantly,  inflicting  heavy  losses  on  the  assailants  (the  Dunkirk  alone  lost  90 
men).  Wlien  they  finally  surrendered,  the  Lys  was  found  to  contain  9400,000  in 
■pecie  and  8  companiefl  of  infantry. 

The  vicinity  of  Cape  Rare  was  for  some  time  the  cruising-ground  of  the  U.  S. 
frigate  Constitution,  in  1812,  and  in  these  waters  stte  captured  the  Adiona,  the  Ade- 
line,  and  other  vesself*. 

Near  the  edge  of  the  Grand  Bank  (in  lat.  41°  41'  N.,  long  56"  18'  W.)  occurred 
the  fknious  sea-flght  between  the  Constitution  and  the  Guerriire,  whose  result  filled 
the  United  States  with  rejoicing,  and  impaired  the  prestige  of  the  British  navy.  On 
the  afternoon  of  Aug.  19,  1812,  the  Constitution  sighted  the  Guerriire,  and  bore 
down  upon  her  with  double-shotted  batteries.  The  British  ship  was  somewhat  in- 
ferior in  force,  but  attacked  the  American  with  the  confidence  of  victory.  The  Con- 
stitution received  several  broadsides  in  silence,  but  when  within  half  pistol-shot  dis- 
charged her  tremendous  batteries,  and  followed  with  such  a  fire  of  deadly  precision 
that  the  Guerriire  was  soon  left  a  dismasted  and  shattered  wreck.  The  British  ship 
then  surrendered,  having  lost  101  men  in  the  action,  while  her  antagonist  lost  but 
14.    The  Guerriire  had  88  guns,  and  the  Constitution  had  44. 

Among  the  American  privateers  that  cruised  about  the  Grand  Banks  in  1812  - 14, 
none  was  more  successful  than  the  Mammoth,  of  Baltimore.  She  captured  the 
ships  Ann  and  Eliza,  Urania,  Anishy,  Dobson,  Sallust,  Uniza,  Sarah,  Sir  Horns 
Fophfun,  ChampiWt  Mentor,  and  many  other  rich  prizes. 


"  Far  olT  by  stormy  Labrador  — 

Far  off  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland, 
Where  angry  sens  incessant  roar, 

And  foggy  mists  their  wings  expand, 
The  flshing-schooners,  black  and  low. 
For  weary  mouths  sail  to  and  fro." 


■Y:'J 


56.   St.  John's  to  Labrador.— The  Northern  Coast  of  New- 
foundland. 

The  Northern  mail-steamer  leaves  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  every  alternate  Monday  dur- 
ing the  season  of  navigation,  and  visits  the  chief  outports  on  theN.  coast  (so-called). 
The  fores  are  as  follows:  St.  John's  to  Bay-de-Verds,  10s.,  —  steerage,  6  s. ;  to 
Trinity,  20s.,  —  steerage.  10s. ;  to  Bonavista, 27s.  6 d.,— steerage.  14s. ;  to  Greens- 
pond,  80s., —  steerage,  158. ;  to  Fogo,  82  s.  Od.;  to  Twillingate,  35  s. ;  to  Exploits 
Island,  37  8.  6  d. ;  to  Tilt  Cove,  Bett's  Cove,  or  Nipper's  Harbor,  40  s.  At  its  most 
northerly  port  the  steamer  meets  the  Hercules,  the  Labrador  mail-steamer. 

The  fare  on  the  Labrador  steamer  is  $2  a  day,  which  includes  both  passage  and 
meals.  The  northern  boats  are  powerful  and  seaworthy,  but  the  fare  at  their 
tables  is  necessarily  of  the  plainest  kind.  The  time  which  will  be  required  for  the 
Labrador  trip  is  nearly  four  weeks  (from  St.  John's  back  to  St.  John's  again).  The 
expense  is  about  Iff  50  The  journey  should  be  begun  before  the  middle  of  July,  in 
order  to  avail  of  the  short  summer  in  these  high  latitudes.  It  would  be  prudent 
for  gentlemen  who  desire  to  make  this  tour  to  write  eirly  in  the  season  to  the  agents 
of  the  steamship  lines,  to  assure  themselves  of  due  connections  and  to  learn  other 
particulars.  Mr.  J.  Taylor  Wood  is  the  agent  at  Halifax  for  the  steamer  from  that 
port  to  St.  John's  :  and  Bowring  Brothers,  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  are  the  agents  for  the 
Northern  Coastal  Line. 

Passing  out  between  the  stern  and  frowning  portals  of  the  harbor  of  St. 
John's,  the  steamer  soon  takes  a  northerly  course,  and  opens  the  indenta- 
tion of  Logic  Bay  on  the  W.  (see  page  196).  After  running  by  the  tall 
cliffs  of  Sugar  Loaf  and  Red  Head  (700  ft.  high),  Torbay  is  seen  opening 
to  the  y   ,  within  which  is  the  village  of  the  same  name. 


I    8 


TRINITY. 


Jtoute  66.      201 


?erage,  6  8.;   to 
4  B. ;  to  OreeoB- 


About  8  M.  beyond  Torbay,  the  white  shore  of  Cape  St.  Franoil  Is  seen 
on  the  port  bow,  and,  if  the  water  is  rough,  the  great  breakers  may  be 
seen  whitening  over  the  roclcs  wliich  are  called  the  Brandies.  The  course 
is  now  laid  across  the  mouth  of  Conception  Bay,  which  is  seen  extending 
to  the  S.  W.  for  30  M.  18  M.  from  Cape  St.  Francis,  and  about  40  M.  from 
St.  John's,  the  steamer  passes  between  Bay  Verd  Head  and  Split  Poiht, 
and  stops  off  Bay  Verd,  a  village  of  about  600  inhabitants,  situated  on  a 
broad  and  unsheltered  bight  of  the  sea.  The  fishing-grounds  in  this  vicin- 
ity are  among  the  best  on  tlie  American  coast,  and  attract  large  fleets  of 
boats  and  schooners.  The  attention  of  tlie  villagers  is  divided  between 
farming  and  fishing,  the  latter  industry  being;  by  far  the  mosl:  lucrative. 
Beads  lead  out  from  Bay  Verd  S.  to  Carbonear  and  Harbor  Grace  (see 
Route  66),  and  N.  \V.  to  the  settlements  on  Trinity  Bay.  Soon  after 
leaving  Bay  Verd,  the  steamer  passes  Baccalieu  Island^  a  high  and  ridgy 
land  3  J  M.  long,  and  nearly  2  M.  from  the  main.  On  its  N.  end  is  a  pov»r- 
erful  flashing  light,  elevated  380  fb.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  fo:  ^%  M. 

Although  Cabot  was  the  first  professional  discoverer  (if  the  *  'm  may  be  used)  u5 
visit  and  explore  the  shores  of  Newfoundland,  there  is  no  d  ill  >..  that  these  wattud 
had  long  been  the  resort  of  the  flshing-tleets  of  the  Normans,  Bretvns,  and  Basqpies. 
Lescarbot  claims  that  they  had  fished  olT  these  shores  '*  for  many  centuries,"  and 
Cabot  applied  the  name  '^Baccalaos"  to  the  country  because  "in  the  seas  there- 
about he  found  so  great  multitudes  of  certain  bigge  fishes,  much  like  unto  Tunnies 
(which  the  inhabitants  call  Barcalaos),  that  they  sometimes  Stayed  bis  shippes." 
Baccalaos  is  the  ancient  Basque  name  for  codfish,  and  its  extensive  use  by  the 
natives  in  plare  of  their  own  word  Apegi,  meaning  the  same  thing,  is  held  as  con- 
clusive proof  that  they  had  been  much  in  communication  viith  Basque  fishermen 
before  the  arrival  of  Cabot.  Cabot  gave  this  name  to  the  continent  as  far  as  he 
explored  it,  but  in  the  map  of  1640  it  is  applied  only  to  the  islet  which  now  re- 
tains it. 

On  her  alternate  trips  the  vessel  rounds  in  about  Grates  Point,  and  stops 
at  Old  Perlican  (see  Route  57).  Otherwise,  it  runs  across  the  mouth  of 
Trinity  Bay  for  about  20  M.,  on  a  N.  W.  *  .M;.r'?e,  and  enters  the  harbor  of 
Trinity,  115  M.  from  St.  John's.  The  enir^aice  is  bold  and  imposing,  and 
the  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  island,  affording  a  land-locked  anchor- 
age for  the  largest  fleets.  It  is  divided  into  two  arms  by  a  high  rocky 
peninsula  (380  ft.  high),  on  whose  S.  side  are  the  wharves  and  houses  of 
the  town.  Trinity  has  about  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  a  port  of  entry  and 
the  capital  of  the  district  of  Trinity.  Considerable  farming  is  done  in  the 
coves  near  the  head  of  the  harbor.  Roads  lead  out  to  the  S.  shore  (see 
Route  57),  and  also  to  Salmon  Cove,  6  M  ;  English  Harbor,  7;  Ragged 
Harbor,  16;  and  Catalina,  20. 

On  leaving  Trinity  Harbor,  the  course  is  S.  E  until  Green  Bay  Head 
and  the  Horse  Chops  are  passed,  when  it  turns  to  the  N.  E.,  and  runs  along 
within  sight  of  a  high  and  cliffy  shore.  Beyond  the  Ragged  Isles  is  seen 
Gi'een  Island,  where  there  is  a  fixed  white  light,  visible  for  15  M.,  around 
which  (through  rough  vi'ater  if  the  wind  is  E.)  the  vessel  passes,  threading 
a  labyrinth  of  shoals  and  rocks,  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Catalina,  re- 
9* 


i!     ! 


i: 


202     RmOe  SB. 


BONAVISTA. 


markable  for  its  sndden  and  frequent  intermittent  tides.  The  town  of 
Catalina  has  1,300  inhabitants,  with  2  churches,  of  which  that  of  the  Epis* 
copalians  is  a  fine  piece  of  architecture,  though  built  of  wood.  The  main 
part  of  the  settlement  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor,  and  has  a  consider- 
able maritime  trade.  The  adjacent  waters  abound  in  salmon,  and  deli- 
cious edible  whelks  are  found  on  the  rocks.  Besides  the  highway  to 
Trmity  (20  M.),  a  rugged  road  leads  N.  to  Bonavista  in  10  M.  Catalina 
was  visited  in  1634  by  Cartier,  who  named  it  St,  Catherine. 

On  leaving  Catalina  Harbor,  North  Head  is  passed,  and  after  running 
N.  E.  by  N.  3  M.  Flowers  Head  is  left  on  the  port  bow.  About  2  M.  be- 
yond, the  Bird  Islets  are  seen  on  the  I.,  near  which  is  the  fishing-settlement 
oi  Bird  Island  Cove  (670  inhabitants),  with  its  long  and  handsome  beach. 
A  short  distance  inland  is  seen  the  Burnt  Ridge,  a  line  of  dark  bleak  hills 
rising  to  a  height  of  500  ft  The  DoUarman  Bank,  famous  for  codfish,  is 
now  crossed,  and  on  the  1.  is  seen  Cape  Largent  and  Spiller  Point,  off  which 
are  the  precipitous  and  tower-like  *  Spiller  Bocks,  surrounded  by  the  sea. 
The  steamer  now  passes  Cape  Bonavista,  on  which  is  a  red-and-white 
flashing-light,  15Q  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  15  M. 

The  re-discovery  of  Newfoundland  (after  the  Northmen's  voyages  6  centuries  be- 
fore) was  effected  in  June,  1497,  by  Cabot,  a  Venetian  in  the  service  of  Henry 
TIT.  of  England,  sailing  in  the  ship  Matthew^  of  Bristol  He  gave  the  name  of  Bona 
Vista  ("  Fair  "View  "),  or  Prima  Vista  ("  First  View  "),  to  the  first  point  of  the  coast 
which  he  saw,  and  that  name  has  since  been  attached  to  this  northerly  cape,  since 
it  ia  believed  that  this  was  the  location  of  the  new-found  shore.  (The  reader  of  Bid- 
die's  "Memoirs  of  Sebastian  Cabot"  will,  however,  be  much  puzzled  to  know  whiat 
point,  if  any,  Cabot  actually  saw  on  these  coasts.)  The  rocks  and  shoals  to  the  N. 
are  prolific  in  fish,  and  are  visited  by  great  flotillas  of  boats. 

After  rounding  the  light,  the  steamer  enters  Bonavista  Bay,  a  great 
bight  of  the  sea  extending  between  Capes  Bonavista  and  Freels,  a  dis- 
tance of  37  M.  About  4  M.  S.  W.  of  the  cape,  the  steamer  enters  the  har- 
bor of  Bonavista,  an  ancjent  marine  town  with  2,600  inhabitants  and  8 
churches.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  the  same  name,  and  is  also  a 
port  of  entry,  having  a  large  and  increasing  commerce.  The  harbor  is 
not  secure,  and  during  long  N.  W.  gales  the  sea  breaks  heavily  across  the 
entrance.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  fine  building  in  English  Gothic 
architecture,  but  the  houses  of  the  town  are  generally  mean  and  small. 
Considerable  farming  .is  done  on  the  comparatively  fei'tile  lands  in  the 
vicinity,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  climate  is  much  more  genial  and  the 
air  more  clear  than  on  the  S.  shores  of  the  island.  The  town  is  146  M. 
from  St  John's,  and  is  30  M.  by  road  from  Trinity  and  10  M.  from  Catalina. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  settlements  on  the  coast,  and  signalized  itself 
in  1696  by  beating  off  the  French  fleet  which  had  captured  St.  John's  and 
ravaged  the  S.  coasts.  . 


BONAVISTA  BAY. 


UmiUBS.     203 


Bonavista  Bay. 

A  road  leads  8.  W.  firam  Bonavista  to  Birchy  Core,  9  M. ;  Amherst  Oof»,  12; 
King's  Cove,  20 ;  Keels  Cove,  26 ;  Tickle  Cove,  83 ;  Open  Hole,  86 ;  Plate  Cove,  88 ; 
and  Indian  Arm,  43. 

King^s  Cove  is  a  village  of  Labrador  fishermen,  with  650  inhabitants  and  2 
churches.  It  is  on  a  narrow  harbor  betweeu  the  lofty  cliffs  of  the  coast  range, 
through  whose  passes  a  road  runs  S.  to  Trinity  in  13  M.  3  M.  from  King's  Gove  is 
Broad  Cove  village,  under  the  shadow  of  the  peak  of  Southern  Head.  Keels  is  6 
M.  from  King's  Gove,  and  does  a  considerable  lumber  business.  Thence  the  road 
descends  through  Tickle  Gove  (2  M.  from  the  picturesque  Red  Gliff  Island)  to  the 
three  villages  on  the  S.,  each  of  which  has  2-300  inhabitants.  To  the  W.  arc  the 
deep  estuaHes  of  Sweet  Harbor,  Glode  Sound  (20  M.  long),  and  Newman  Sound  (11 
M.  long),  penetrating  the  hill-country  and  exhibiting  a  succession  of  views  of  ro- 
mantic scenery  and  total  desolation.  Boats  may  be  taken  from  Open  Hole  to  Bar- 
row  Harbor,  a  fishing  settlement  10  M.  N.  W.,  at  the  mouth  of  Newman  Sound,  acd 
to  Salvage,  16  M  distant,  a  village  of  600  inhabitants.  6  M.  N.  W.,  beyond  the  Bay 
of  Fair  and  False,  is  Bloody  Bay,  a  deep  and  narrow  inlet  with  picturesque  forest 
scenery,  extending  for  several  miles  among  the  hills.  The  name  was  given  on  ac- 
count of  the  frequent  conflicts  which  here  ensued  between  the  Red  Indians  and  the 
fishermen.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  the  Terra  Nova  River,  descending  from  the 
Terra  Nova  Lake,  which  is  16  M.  distant,  and  is  12  M.  long. 

The  N.  shore  of  Bonavista  Bay  is  visited  most  easily  from  the  port  of  Greens- 
pond.  Ihe  communication  is  exclusively  by  boats,  which  may  be  engaged  at  the 
village.  Nearly  all  the  islands  in  the  vicinity  and  for  10  M.  to  the  S.  W.  and  S.  are 
occupied  by  small  communities  of  hardy  fishermen,  and  the  shores  of  the  main- 
land are  indented  with  deep  and  narrow  bays  and  sounds.  To  the  N.  are  Pool's 
Island,  3  Id. ;  Pincher's  Island,  9  ;  Gobbler's  Island,  10 ;  and  Middle  Bill  Cove  (near 
Cape  Freels),  15.  To  the  S.  and  W.  are  the  Fair  Island,  7  M. ;  Deer  Island,  11; 
Gottel's  Island  (three  settlements),  15 ;  the  Gooseberry  Isles,  12 ;  and  Hare  Bay,  28. 
The  last-named  place  is  at  the  entrance  of  Freshwater  Bay,  which  runs  in  for  about 
15  M.,  with  deep  water  and  bold  shores.  The  great  northern  mail-road  is  being 
built  along  the  head  of  this  bay  ;  a  short  distance  from  which  (by  the  river)  are  the 
Gambo  Ponds,  large  lakes  in  the  desolate  interior,  23  M.  long,  abounding  in  fish. 
One  of  the  best  salmon-fisheries  on  the  island  is  at  the  head  of  Indian  Bay,  12  M. 
VV.  of  Qreenspond. 


On  leaving  Bonavista,  the  steamer  runs  N.  by  W.  across  Bonavista  Bay, 
passing  the  Gooseberry  Isles  on  the  port  bow.  After  over  8  hours'  run, 
the  N.  shore  is  approached,  and  the  harbor  of  Oreenspond  is  entered. 
This  town  contains  over  1,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  an  island 
1  M.  square,  so  rugged  that  soil  for  house-gardens  had  to  be  brought  from 
the  mainland.  A  large  business  is  done  here  in  the  fisheries  and  the  seal- 
trade,  and  most  <5f  the  inhabitants  are  connected  with  either  the  one  or  the 
other.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  difficult,  and  is  marked  by  a  fixed 
red  light,  visible  for  12  M. 

The  steamci'  now  runs  N.  E.  and  N.  for  about  18  M.  to  Cape  Freell, 
passing  great  numbers  of  islands,  some  of  which  are  inhabited  by  fisher- 
men, while  others  are  the  resort  of  myriads  of  sea-birds,  who  are  seen 
hovering  over  the  rocks  in  gi'eat  flocks.  Soon  after  passing  the  arid  high- 
lands of  Cape  Freels,  the  course  is  laid  to  the  N.  W.  across  the  opening  of 
Sir  Charles  Hamilton's  Sound,  a  broad  and  deep  arm  of  the  sea  which  is 
Btudded  with  many  islands.  Leaving  the  Cape  Ridge  and  Windmill  Hill 
astern,  the  Penguin  Islands  are  seen,  16i  M.  from  Cape  Freels;  and  6  M. 
farther  N.  W.  the  Wadham  Ides  are  passed,  where,  on  a  lonely  and  surf- 


.xmimi'mt^af^ 


i 


204     ItouU  65. 


FOGO. 


beaten  rock,  is  the  Offer  Wadhara  lighthoase,  a  circular  brick  tower  100 
ft.  high,  exhibiting  a  fixed  white  light,  which  is  visible  for  12  M.  To  the 
N.  E.,  and  well  out  at  sea,  is  Funk  Island^  near  which  are  good  sealihg- 
grounds. 

Funk  Island  was  yisited  by  Cartier  in  1534,  who  named  it  (and  the  a^Japient  rocks) 
Les  Isles  des  Oyseaux.  Here  he  saw  a  white  bear  *'  as  large  aa  a  cow,"  which  had 
swum  14  leagues  from  Newfoundland.  "  He  then  coasted  alono;  all  the  northern 
part  of  that  great  island,  and  he  says  that  you  meet  nowhere  clue  better  ports  or  a 
more  wretched  country ;  on  every  side  it  is  nothing  but  frightful  rocks,  sterile  lands 
covered  with  a  scanty  moss;  no  trees,  but  only  some  bushes  half  dried  up;  that 
nevertheless  he  found  men  there  well  made,  who  wore  their  hair  tied  on  the  top  of 
the  head."  The  isles  were  again  visited  by  Cartier  in  July,  1535,  in  ttie  ship  Grand 
Hermine.  '*  If  the  soyle  were  as  good  as  the  harboroughcs  are,  it  were  a  gie&t  com- 
moditie ;  but  it  is  not  to  be  called  the  new  found  land,  but  rather  stones  and  cragges 

and  a  place  fit  for  wilde  bcastes In  short,  I  believe  this  was  the  land  allotted 

to  Gaine."  Such  v/as  the  unfavorable  description  given  by  Jaques  Cartier-  of  the 
land  between  Gape  Bonavista  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

It  is  supposed  that  cither  the  Baccalieu  or  the  Penguin  Islands  were  the  "  Feather 
Islands,"  which  the  Annates  Skalholtini  and  Ltgmann^s  state  were  discovered  by 
the  Northmen  in  the  year  1285.  The  Saga  of  Eric  the  Red  tells  that  Leif,  son  of  the 
Earl  of  Norway,  visited  the  Labrador  and  Newfoundland  shores  in  994.  "Then 
sailed  they  to  the  land,  and  cast  anchor,  and  put  ofT  boats,  and  went  ashore,  and 
saw  there  no  grass.  Great  icebergs  were  over  all  up  the  country,  but  like  a  plain  of 
flat  stones  was  aU  from  the  sea  to  the  mountains,  and  it  appeared  to  them  that  this 
land  had  no  good  qualities."  Leif  named  this  country  Helluland  (from  Hella,».  flat 
stone),  distingui.'^hing  liabrador  as  Helluland  it  Mikla.  In  1288  King  Eric  sent  the 
mariner  Rolf  to  Iceland  to  call  out  men  for  a  voyage  to  these  shores ;  and  the  name 
Nyj'a  Land,  or  Nyj'a  Fundu  Land,  was  then  applied  to  the  great  island  to  the  S., 
and  was  probably  adopted  by  the  English  (in  the  Anglicized  form  of  Neivfoundland) 
during  the  commercial  intercourse  between  England  and  Iceland  in  the  15th  cen- 
tury. 

9i  M.  N.  W.  by  N.,  Cape  Fogo  is  approached,  and  is  a  bold  promontory 
214  ft.  high,  terminating  Fogo  Island  on  the  S.  E.  The  course  continues 
to  the  N.  W.  off  the  rugged  shores  of  the  island,  and  at  6^  M.  from  Cape 
Fogo,  Round  Head  is  passed,  and  the  steamer  assumes  a  course  more  to 
the  westward.  6 -8  M.  from  Round  Head  she  enters  the  harbor  of  Fogo, 
a  port  of  entry  and  posf-town  216  RI.  from  St.  John's.  The  population  is 
740,  with  2  churches ;  and  the  town  is  of  great  local  importance,  being  the 
depot  of  supplies  for  the  fishing-stations  of  the  N.  shore.  (See  also  Route 
68  for  this  and  other  ports  in  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame.) 

"The  western  headlands  of  Fogo  are  exceedingly  attractive,  lofty,  finely  broken, 

of  a  red  and  purplish  brown,  tinted  here  and  there  with  palu  green As  we  pass 

the  bold  prominences  and  deep,  narrow  bays  or  fiords,  they  arc  continually  changing 
and  surprising  us  with  a  new  scenery.  And  now  the  great  sea-wall,  on  our  right, 
opens  and  discloses  the  harbor  and  village  of  Fogo,  the  chief  place  of  the  island, 
gleaming  in  the  setting  sun  as  if  there  were  flames  shining  through  the  windows. 
Looking  to  the  left,  all  the  western  region  is  one  fine  ^gean,  a  sea  filled  with  a  mul- 
titude of  isles,  of  manifold  forms  and  sizes,  and  of  every  height,  from  mountain  pyra- 
mids and  crested  ridges  down  to  rounded  knolls  and  tables,  rocky  ruins  split  and 
shattered,  giant  .«labs  sliding  edgewis^c  into  the  deep,  columns  and  grotesque  masses 
rufiSed  with  curling  surf,  —  the  Cyclades  of  the  west.  I  climb  the  shrouds,  and  be- 
hold fields  and  lanes  of  water,  an  endless  and  beautiful  network,  a  little  Switzerland 
with  her  vales  and  gorges  filled  with  the  purple  sea."    (Noble.) 

In  passing  out  of  Fogo  Harbor,  the  bold  bluff  of  Fogo  Head  (345  ft.  high) 
is  seen  on  the  1.,  back  of  which  is  Brimstone  Head.    The  vessel  steams 


TWILLINGATE. 


Xmd  66,      205 


(i^Jac^nt  rocka) 
9w,"  which  had 


in  to  the  W.,  np  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  soon  passing  Fogo  Head,  and 
opening  the  Change  Island  Tickles  on  the  S.  Change  Island  is  then  seen 
on  the  1.,  and  the  coarse  is  laid  across  to  the  lofty  and  arid  hills  of  Bacca- 
lieu  Island.  At  22  M.  from  Fogo  the  steamer  enters  the  harbor  of  Twil- 
lingate  (the  Anglicized  form  of  Toulinguet,  the  ancient  French  name  of 
the  port).  The  town  of  Twillingate  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Twil- 
lingate  and  Fogo,  the  most  northerly  political  and  legal  division  of  New- 
foundland, and  has  a  population  of  2,790,  with  3  churches.  It  is  situated 
on  two  islands,  and  the  sections  are  connected  by  a  bridge.  Farming  is 
carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent  in  the  vicinity,  but  with  varying  suc- 
cess, owing  to  the  short  and  uncertain  summers.  The  houses  in  the  town 
are  (as  usually  iit  the  coast  settlements)  very  inferior  in  appearance, 
snugness  and  warmth  being  the  chief  objects  sought  after  in  their  archi- 
tecture. 

The  finest  breed  of  Newfoundland  dogs  were  formerly  found  about  the  Twillingate 
Isle!*,  and  were  generally  distinguished  by  their  deep  black  color,  with  a  white  cross 
on  the  breast.  They  were  smaller  than  the  so-called  Newfoundland  dogs  of  America 
and  Britain ;  were  almost  amphibious ;  and  lived  on  flsh,  salted,  fresh,  or  decayed. 
LiXe  the  great  mahogany-colored  dogs  of  Labrador,  these  animals  were  distinguished 
for  rare  intelligence  and  unbounded  affection  (especially  for  children) ;  and  were 
exempt  from  hydropuobia.  A  Newfoundland  dog  of  pure  blood  is  now  worth  from 
$75  to  8100. 

The  steamer  passes  out  of  Twillingate  Harbor  and  runs  by  Gull  Island. 
The  course  is  to  the  S.  W.,  off  the  rugged  shores  of  the  Black  Islets,  and 
the  N.  promontory  of  the  great  New  World  Island.  14  M.  from  Twillingate 
she  reaches  the  post-town  of  EzploltB  Island,  a  place  of  530  inhabitants, 
with  a  large  fleet  of  Ashing- boats.    (See  also  Route  58. ) 

From  Exploits  Island  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame  is  crossed,  and  the  harbor 
of  Tilt  Cove  is  entered.  This  village  has  770  inhabitants,  and  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  border  of  a  picturesque  lake.  The  vicinity  is  famous  for 
its  copper-mines,  which  were  discovered  in  1857  and  opened  in  1865.  Be- 
tween 1865  and  1870,  45,000  tons  of  ore,  valued  at  $1,180,810,  were 
extracted  and  shipped  away.  It  is  found  in  pockets  or  bunches  3-4  ft. 
thick,  scattered  through  the  heart  of  the  hills,  and  is  secured  by  level  tun- 
nels several  thousand  feet  long,  connected  with  three  perpendicular  main 
ehatts,  216  ft.  deep.  There  is  also  a  valuable  nickel-mine  here,  with  a  lode 
10  inches  thick,  worked  by  costly  machinery,  ancl  producing  ore  worth 
$  332  a  ton.  A  superior  quality  of  marble  is  founa  in  the  vicinity,  but  is 
too  far  from  a  market  to  make  it  worth  while  to  quarry.  The  male  inhab- 
itants of  Tilt  Cove  are  all  miners. 

The  next  stopping-place  is  at  Nipper's  Harbor,  a  small  fishing-village 
10  M.  S.  W.  of  Tilt  Cove.  The  harbor  is  the  best  on  the  N.  shore  of  the 
Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  and  lies  between  the  Nipper's  Isles  and  the  mainland. 
On  alternate  trips  the  mail-steamer  calls  also  at  Little  Bay  JsJhndf  6-8  M. 
S.  of  Nipper's  harbor. 


II 


t 


206      Jt(»tU  66, 


CONCEPTION  BAY. 


The  great  copper-mines  of  this  region  now  employ  thousands  of  miners, 
and  produce  vast  quantities  of  rich  ore.  The  new  railway  from  St.  John's 
is  heading  toward  the  N.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame,  to  reac&  the 
mines.  They  are  owned  in  London,  and  much  of  the  ore  is  sliipped  to 
Wales,  to  be  smelted.  Since  the  year  1880,  these  remote  shores  have 
received  great  accessions  of  population;  a  telegraph  line  has  been 
built  along  the  coasi  io  St.  John's ;  and  new  roads  begin  to  reach  in- 
land, including  the  g:  -'t  highway  across  the  island,  to  Indian  Pond, 
Grand  Lake,  and  ?  ay  of  Islands,  surveyed  in  1878,  in  which  year 
Governor  Sir  John  Glover  and  the  Rev.  M.  Harvey  crossed  the  island  on 
this  line,  in  canoes,  finding  imntiense  areas  of  arable  and  grazing  land, 
deposits  of  coal  and  other  minerals,  etc. 

The  Hercules  connects  with  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  at  its  last 
port,  and  goes  on  to  Labrador  (see  pages  223  to  229). 

56.  St.  John's  to  Conception  Bay. 

The  new  railway  runs  out  firom  St.  John's  towards  Conception  Bay,  connecting 
with  mail-stages  for  rarioua  localities.  It  is  under  contemplation  to  extend  a  branch 
of  the  railway  by  Harbor  Grace  to  Carbonear. 

A  small  steamboat  plies  up  and  down  tho  bay  bt  certain  seasons. 

Fares.  —  Portugal  Cove  to  Brigus,  18  M.,  fare  $1.40  ;  to  Carbonear,  20  M. ;  to 
Bay  Roberts,  20  M. ;  to  Harbor  Grace,  20  M.,  fare,  $1.60. 

There  is  also  a  road  extending  around  Conception  Bay.  It  is  20  M.  from  St. 
John's  to  Topsail,  by  way  of  Portugal  Cove,  passing  Beachy,  Broad,  and  Horse 
Coves.  The  more  direct  route  leads  directly  across  the  N.  part  of  Avalon  from  St. 
John's  to  Topsail.  The  chief  villages  and  the  distances  on  tliis  road  are  as  follows : 
St.  John's  to  Topsail,  12  M. ;  Killigrews,  18;  Holyrood,  28;  Chapt^'s  Cove,  83; 
Harbor  Main,  34^  ;  Salmon  Cove,  37 ;  Colliers,  40;  Brigus,  46 ;  Port  de  Grave,  51 ; 
Spaniard's  Bay,  66;  Harbor  Grace,  63;  CarbonpnTi  67i^;  Salmon  Cove,  72;  Spout 
Cove,  76^;  Western  Bay,  82;  Northern  Bay,  87;  Island  Gove,  98^;  Caplin  Cove, 
07 ;  Bay  Verd,  106. 

The  stage-road,  after  leaving  St.  John's,  traverses  a  singular  fanning 
country  for  several  miles,  and  then  enters  a  rugged  region  of  hills.  Portu- 
gal Cove  is  soon  reached,  and  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  ledges  near 
the  foot  of  a  range  of  highlands.  It  contains  over  700  inhabitants,  with. 
2  churches,  and  has  a  few  small  farms  adjacent  (see  page  196). 

Gaspiar  Cortereal*  explored  this  coast  in  the  year  1600,  and  named  Conception 
Bay.  He  carried  home  such  a  favorable  account  that  a  Portuguese  colony  wa;  es* 
tablished  at  the  Cove,  and  60  ships  were  sent  out  to  the  fisheries.  In  1678,  400  sail 
of  vessels  were  seen  in  the  bay  at  one  time,  prosecuting  the  fisheries  under  uU  flags. 
The  colony  was  broken  up  by  the  English  fleet  under  Sir  Francis  Drake,  who  a^ 
drove  the  French  and  Portuguese  fishermen  from  the  coast. 

Belle  Isle  lies  ofT  shore  3  M.  from  the  Cove,  whence  it  may  be  visited  by  ferry- 
T>oats  (also  from  Topsail).  This  interesting  island  is  9  M.  long  and  3  M.  wide,  and 
is  traversed  by  a  line  of  bold  hills.  It  is  famous  for  the  richness  of  its  deep  black 
soil,  and  produces  wheat,  oats,  potatoes,  and  hay,  with  the  best  of  butter.  Tho 
lower  Silurian  geological  formation  is  here  finely  displayed  in  long  parallel  strata, 
amid  which  iron  ore  is  found.  The  cliffs  which  fi-ont  on  the  shrre  are  very  bold, 
and  sometimes  overhang  the  water  or  else  are  cut  into  strange  and  fantastic  shapes 
by  the  action ,of  tho  sea.  Two  or  three  brilliant  little  waterfalls  are  seen  leaping 
firom  the  upper  levels.  Belle  Isle  has  600  inhabitants,  located  in  two  viUagefl,  Lance 
Cove,  at  the  W.  end,  and  the  Beooh,  on  the  S. 


HARBOR  GRACE. 


HmtU  66.      207 


inds  of  miners, 
trom  St.  John's 
e,  to  reach  the 
e  is  shipped  to 
>te  shores  have 
line  has  heen 
fin  to  reach  in- 
>  Indian  Pond, 
,  in  which  year 
id  the  island  bn 
I  grazing  land, 

imer  at  its  last 


11  Bay,  connecting 
to  extend  a  branch 

IS. 

rbonear,  20  M. ;  to 

;  is  20  M.  from  St. 
Broad,  and  Horse 
ot  Avalon  from  St. 
•oad  ire  as  follows : 
Miapcl's  Cove,  83 ; 
Port  de  Grave,  61 ; 
n  Cove,  72 ;  Spout 
93i;  CapUn  Cove, 

singular  farming 

1  of  hills.  Portu- 

m  the  ledges  near 

inhabitants,  with* 

>  195). 

named  Conception 
wese  colony  was  es- 
i.  In  1678,  400  saU 
eries  under  all  flags. 
Lcis  Drake,  who  also 

be  visited  by  ferry- 
;  and  3  M.  wide,  and 
ess  of  its  deep  black 
est  of  butter.  The 
long  parallel  strata, 
Bhrire  are  very  bold, 
and  fantastic  shapes 
tils  are  seen  leaping 
1  two  villages.  Lance 


The  steamer  nms  out  to  the  S.  W.  between  Belle  Isle  and  the  bold 
heights  about  Portugal  Gove  and  Broad  Cove,  and  passes  up  Conception 
Bay  for  18  M.,  with  the  lofty  Blue  Hills  on  the  S.  It  then  enters  the  mr- 
row  harbor  of  Brigns  {Sullivan's  Hotel)^  a  port  of  entry  and  the  capital 
of  the  district  of  Brigus.  It  has  2,000  inhabitants,  with  Wesley  an.  Roman, 
and  Anglican  churches,  and  a  convent  of  the  Order  of  Mercy.  The  town 
is  built  on  the  shores  of  a  small  lake  between  two  rugged  hills,  and  pre> 
sents  a  picturesque  appearance.  It  has  over  800  boats  engaged  in  the 
cod-fishery,  and  about  30  larger  vessels  in  trading  and  fishing.  There  are 
a  few  farms  in  the  vicinity,  producing  fair  crops  in  return  for  great 
labor.  The  best  of  these  are  on  the  bright  meadows  near  Clark's  Beach, 
4  M.  from  the  town;  and  several  prosperous  villages  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  Near  the  town  is  the  singular  double  peak  called  the  Twins, 
and  a  short  distance  S.  W.  is  the  sharp  and  conical  Thumb  Peak  (598  ft. 
high). 

The  steamer  passes  out  from  the  rock-bound  harbor  and  runs  N.  by  the 
bold  hill  of  Brigus  Lookout  (400  ft.  high).  Beyond  Burnt  Head,  Bay  de 
Grave  is  seen  opening  on  the  1.,  with  several  hamlets,  aggregating  2,600  in- 
habitants. Cupids  and  Bareneed  are  the  chief  of  these  villages,  the  latter 
being  on  the  narrow  neck  of  land  between  Bay  de  Grave  and  Bay  Roberts, 
2j^  M.  from  Blow-me-down  Head.  Green  Point  is  now  rounded,  and  the 
course  is  laid  S.  W.  up  Bay  Roberts,  passing  Coldeast  Point  on  the  port 
bow  and  stopping  at  the  village  of  Bay  Bobeits  {Moore's  Hotel).  This 
place  consists  of  one  long  street,  with  2  churches  and  several  wharves, 
and  has  1,000  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  spend  the  summer  on  the  Lab- 
rador coast. 

Passing  out  from  Bay  Roberts,  Mad  Point  is  soon  left  abeam,  and  Span- 
tardus  Bay  is  seen  on  the  1.,  entering  the  land  for  8^  M.,  and  dotted  with 
fishing-establishments.  The  bay  is  surrounded  by  a  line  of  high  hills, 
on  whose  promontories  are  two  or  three  chapels.  The  hamlet  and  church 
of  BryanVs  Cove  are  next  seen,  in  a  narrow  glen  at  the  base  of  the  hills, 
and  the  steamer  passes  on  around  the  dangerous  and  surf-beaten  Harbor- 
Grace  Islands  (off  Feather  Point),  on  one  of  which  is  a  revolving  white* 
and-red  flash  light,  161  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  18  M. 

Harbor  Grace  (two  inferior  inns)  is  the  second  city  of  Newfoundland, 
and  is  the  capital  of  the  district  of  Harbor  Grace.  It  has  6,770  inhab- 
itants, with  several  churches,  a  weekly  newspaper,  and  fire  and  police 
departments.  Tb«>  town  is  built  on  level  land,  near  the  shelter  of  the 
Point  of  Beach  with  its  wharves  well  protected  by  a  long  sand-strip. 
The  bay  is  in  the  form  of  a  wedge,  decreasing  from  li  M.  in  width  to  ^ 
M.,  and  is  insecure  except  in  the  sheltered  place  before  the  city.  The 
trade  of  this  port  is  very  large,  and  about  200  ships  enter  the  harbor 
yearly.  There  is  a  stone  court-house  and  a  strong  prison,  and  the  Con- 
vent of  the  Presentation  is  on  the  Garbonear  road.    The  Roman  CathoUo 


^iWIWi'fclt|<l>»»l>~#%j  i{i,ji ;. 


208     RimU  67. 


CABBONEAB. 


cathedral  is  the  finest  building  in  the  city,  and  its  high  and  symmetrical 
dome  is  a  landmark  for  vessels  entering  the  port.  The  interior  of  the 
cathedral  is  profusely  ^""namented,  having  been  recently  enlarged  and 
newly  adorned.  Most  of  the  houses  in  the  city  are  mean  and  unprepos- 
sessing, bein^j  rudely  constructed  of  wood,  and  but  little  improved  by 
painting. 

A  rugged  road  runs  N.  ^S'  16  M.  across  the  peninsula  to  H^'«^  rt's  Content 
(see  Route  57).  A  road  to  the  N.  reaches  (in  1^  M.)  the  faraniDg  viliage  ot  Mos-;V.iu>- 
Cove,  snugly  embosomed  in  a  pretty  glen  near  the  <'altivat<id  miado"  .».i.  Aliout.  the 
year  1610  a  colony  wad  planted  here  by  the  agents  of  that  Eugiicih  couipar^^  in  whkri 
were  Sir  Francis  Bacon,  the  liarl  of  Southampton,  and  other  knights  and  nobles. 
King  James  I.  granted  to  thii*  company  all  the  coast  between  Capes  Bonavista  aud 
8t.  Mary,  but  their  enterprise  brought  no  per  uniary  returns. 

Carbonear  is  14  M.  by  road  from  Mosquito  Cove  (3  M.  from  Harbor 
Grace),  and  is  reached  by  the  steamer  after  pa-spir.g  Old  Sow  Poliit  and 
rounding  Carbonear  Island.  This  town  has  2.000  inhabitants,  with  8 
churches,  imd  Wesleyan  and  Catholic  schoolri.  Several  wharvfi-  are  built 
out  to  fun\i'?h  winter-quarters  for  the  vessels  and  to  accommodate  the 
large  fish-tr&de  ul  the  place.  It  is  21  M.  by  boat  to  Portugal  Cove,  across 
Conception  Bi)y  This  town  was  settled  by  the  French  early  in  the  17th 
ceutiiry,  undar  the  name  of  Cai'boniere,  but  was  soon  occupied  by  the 
British.  lu  1698  it  was  one  of  the  two  Newfoundland  towns  that  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  English,  all  the  rest  liaving  been  captured  by 
Iberville's  French  fleet.  Other  marauding  French  squadrons  were  beaten 
off  by  the  men  of  Carbonear  in  1705-6,  though  the  adjacent  coast  was 
devastated ;  and  in  1762  Carbonear  Island  was  fortified  and  garrisoned  by 
the  citizens. 

The  mail*road  runs  IT.  from  Carbonear  to  Bay  Terd,  pnssing  the  villages  of  Cro- 
ker's  Cove,  1  M. ;  Freshwater,  2  ;  Salmon  Cove,  6 ;  Perry's  Cove,  8  ;  Broad  Cove, 
15;  Western  Bay,  17;  Northern  Bay,  20 ;  Job's  Cove,  25;  Island  Cove,  27;  Low 
Point,  33 ;  Bay  Yerd,  3*^.  There  is  no  harbor  along  this  shore,  the  "  coves  "  being 
mere  open  bights,  swept  by  sea-winds  and  affording  ini°ecure  anchorage.  The  in- 
habitants are  epgaged  in  the  fisheries,  and  have  made  some  attempts  at  farming,  in 
defiance  of  the  early  and  biting  frosts  of  this  high  latitude.  Salmon  Cove  is  near 
the  black  and  drowning  cliffs  of  Salmon  Cove  Head,  and  is  famous  for  its  great  num- 
bers of  salmon.  Near  Ochre  Pit  Cove  are  beds  of  a  reddish  clay  which  is  used  for 
paint,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  ancient  Boeothic  tribes  obtained  their  name  of 
*'  Red  Indians  "  from  their  custom  of  staining  themselves  with  this  clay. 

Bay  Yerd)  see  page  201. 

57.   Trinity  Bay. 

This  district  may  be  visited  by  taking  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  (see  Route  66) 
to  Bay  Verd,  Old  Perlican,  or  Trinity  ;  or  by  passing  from  St  John's  to  Harbor 
Grace  by  Route  56,  and  thence  by  the  road  to  Heart's  Content  (15  M.).  The  latter 
village  is  about  ^  M.  from  St.  John's  by  the  road  around  Conception  Bay. 

Heart's  Content  is  situated  on  a  fine  harbor  about  half-way  up  Trinity 
Bay,  and  has  880  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  Labrador 
fisheries  or  in  shipbuilding.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  is  very  striking, 
partaking  of  the  boldness  and  startling  contrast  which  seems  pecuh'ar  to 
this  sea-girt  Province.    Just  back  of  the  village  is  a  small  lake,  over 


TRINITY  BAY. 


Rouie  B7,      20d 


gymmetrical 
terior  of  the 
mlarged  and 
[id  unprepos- 
iraproved  by 

•t'8  C'onterit 
,ge  ol  Mos-;V.iu>- 

.:,,;..      Al)OUt.  tie 

iipany  la  whki) 
lits  and  nobles. 
3  Bonavista  aud 

.  from  Harb'jT 
low  Fo;:it  and 
itartts,  witb  8 
arv^^-  are  bnilt 
ommodate  the 
il  Cove,  across 
irly  in  the  17th 
icupied  by  the 
towns  that  re- 
in captured  by 
ns  were  beaten 
icent  coast  was 
I  garrisoned  by 

he  Tillages  of  Cro- 
),  8  ;  Broad  Cove, 
d  Cove,  27 ;  Low 
e  "coves"  being 
ihorage.  The  in- 
pts  at  fanning,  in 
mon  Cove  is  near 
for  its  great  nuni- 
which  is  used  for 
ed  their  name  of 
s  clay. 


mer  (see  Eoute  BB) 
John's  to  Harbor 
5  M.)     The  latter 
•tion  Bay. 

f-way  up  Trinity 

in  the  Labrador 

is  very  striking, 

eems  peculiar  to 

small  lake,  over 


which  rises  the  dark  mass  of  Mizztn  Hilly  604  ft.  high.  Heart's  Content 
derives  its  chief  importance  and  a  world-wide  fame,  from  the  fact  that 
here  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  old  Atlantic  telegraph-cable.  The  office  of 
the  company  is  near  the  Episcopal  Church,  and  is  the  only  good  building 
in  the  town. 

"  Throb  on, strong  pulie  of  thunder  i  beat 
From  answering  beach  to  beach ; 
Fuse  nations  in  thy  kindly  heat. 
And  melt  the  chains  of  each  I 

"  Wild  terror  of  the  sky  above. 
Glide  tamed  and  dumb  below  t 
Bear  gently.  Ocean's  carrier-dove, 
Thy  errands  to  and  fro. 

"  Weave  on,  swift  shuttle  of  the  Lord, 
Beneath  the  deep  so  far, 
The  bridal  robe  of  earth's  accord. 
The  funeral  shroud  of  war ! 

"  For  lo  t  the  fall  of  Ocean's  wall 
Space  mocked  and  time  outrun ; 
And  round  the  world  the  thought  of  all 
Is  as  the  thought  of  one." 
John  Q.  Whittibb  s  Cable  Hymn. 

The  road  running  N.  from  Heart's  Content  leads  to  New  Perlican,  3  M. ;  Sillee 
Cove,  6  M. ;  Hants  Harbor,  12 ;  Seal  Cove,  19 ;  Lance  Cove,  24 ;  Old  Perlican,  ^; 
and  Orate's  Cove,  34. 

New  Perlican  is  on  the  safe  harbor  of  the  same  name,  and  has  about 
420  inhabitants,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  cod-fishery  and  in  ship- 
building. A  packet-boat  runs  from  this  point  across  the  Bay  to  Trinity. 
Near  the  village  is  a  large  table-rock  on  which  several  score  of  names  have 
been  inscribed,  some  of  them  over  two  centuries  old. 

Old  Perlican  is  about  ttie  size  of  Heart's  Conteut,  and  is  scattered  along 
the  embayed  shores  inside  of  Perlican  Island.  It  is  overlooked  by  a 
crescent-shaped  range  of  dark  and  barren  hills.  The  Northern  Coastal 
steamer  calls  at  this  port  once  a  month  during  the  season  of  navigation. 


•*  O  lonely  Bay  of  Trinity, 
O  dreary  snores,  give  ear  t 
Lean  down  into  the  white-lipped  sea, 
The  voice  of  God  to  hear  f 

••  From  world  to  world  His  couriers  fly, 
Thought-winged  and  shod  with  fire  ; 
The  angel  of  His  stormy  sky 
Rides  down  the  sunken  wire. 

"  What  saith  the  herald  of  the  T^rd  ? 
*  The  world  s  long  strife  is  done : 
Close  wedded  by  that  mystic  cord, 
Its  continents  are  one. 

" '  And  one  in  heart,  as  one  in  blood, 
Hhall  all  her  peoples  be  ; 
The  hands  of  human  brotherhood 
Are  clasped  beneath  the  sea.' 


The  southern  road  flrom  Heart's  Content  leads  to  Heart's  Desire,  6  M. ;  Heart's 
Delight,  9;  Shoal  Bay,  14  ;  Witless  Bay,  19 ;  Oreen  Harbor,  23;  Hop«All,28;  New 
Harbor,  82 ;  and  Dildo  Cove,  35.  The  villages  on  this  road  are  all  small,  and  are 
mostly  inhabited  by  the  toilers  of  the  sea.  The  country  about  Green  Harbor  and 
Hope  All  is  milder  and  more  pastoral  than  are  the  cliff-bound  regions  on  either  side. 
From  New  Harbor  a.  road  runs  £.  by  Spaniard's  Bay  (Conception  Bay)  to  St.  John's, 
in  68  M.  To  the  S.  and  W.  lie  the  fishing-hamlets  on  the  narrow  isthmus  of  Avalon, 
which  separates  PlacentiaBay  from  Trinity  Bay  by  a  strip  of  land  7M.  long,  joining 
the  peninsula  of  Avalon  to  the  main  island.  The  deep  estuary  called  Bull  ^rm  runs 
up  amid  the  mountains  to  within  2  M.  of  the  Come-by-chance  River  of  Piacentia 
Bay,  and  here  it  is  proposed  to  make  a  canal  joining  the  two  bays. 

Heart's  Ease  is  15  M.  from  Heart's  Content  (by  boat),  and  ie  at  the  S.  entrance 
of  Random  Sound.  It  is  a  fishing-village  with  200  inhabitants  aud  a  church.  To 
the  S.  is  the  grand  cliff-scenery  around  St.  Jones  Harbor,  and  the  long  and  river- 
like Deer  Harbor,  filled  with  islands,  at  whose  head  is  Centre  Hill,  an  isolated  cone 
over  1,000  ft.  high.  From  the  summit  of  Centre  Hill  or  of  Crown  Hill  may  be  seen 
nearly  the  whole  extent  of  the  Piacentia  and  Trinity  Bays,  with  their  capes  and 
islands,  villages  and  harbors.  Just  above  Heart's  Ease  is  Random  Island,  covering 
a  large  area,  and  separated  fh>m  the  main  by  the  deep  and  narrow  watercourses 
called  Random  Sound  and  Smith's  Sound.  There  is  much  fine  scenery  In  the  sounds 
and  their  deep  arms,  and  salmon-fishing  is  here  carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent. 
There  are  Immense  quantities  of  slate  on  the  shores,  some  of  which  has  been  qnar* 

N 


210     RmUe68,         RIVER  OF  EXPLOITS. 

fled  (ftt  TVnton  Grore).  The  two  wmnds  an  about  80  M.  long,  Ibnninf  tfin*  itdai 
of  a  Bqoare  around  Random  Island,  and  have  a  width  of  from  i  M.  to  2  M.  "  Tho 
■ail  up  Smith's  Sound  was  very  beautiful.  It  is  a  fine  river-like  arm  of  the  soa,  1-2 
M.  wide,  with  lofty,  and  in  many  places  precipitous,  rocky  banks,  covered  with  wood. 
....  The  character  of  the  scenery  of  Random  Sound  is  wild  and  beautiftil,  and  coa- 
Teying,  from  its  stillness  and  silence,  the  feeling  of  utter  solitude  and  seclusion." 

Trinity  is  the  most  convenient  point  from  which  to  visit  the  N.  shore  of 
the  Bay  (see  page  201).  The  southern  road  runs  to  Trouty,  7  M.;  New 
Bonaventure,  12  M. ;  and  Old  Bonaventure,  18  M.  Beyond  these  settle- 
ments is  the  N.  entrance  to  Random  Sound. 


68.  The  Bay  of  Notre  Dame. 

Passengers  are  landed  from  the  Northern  Coastal  steamer  at  Fogo,  Twillingate, 
Little  Bay  Island,  Nipper's  Harbor,  or  Ti)!.  Cove,  —  all  porta  on  this  l»y  (see 
pages  204,  205). 

Fogo  is  situated  on  Fogo  Island,  which  lies  between  Sir  Charles  Ham- 
ilton's Sound  and  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  13  M.  long  from  £.  to  W., 
and  8  M.  wide,  and  its  shores  are  bold  and  rugged.  There  are  10  fishing- 
villages  on  the  Island,  with  nearly  2,000  inhabitants  (exclusive  of  Fogo), 
and  roads  lead  across  the  hills  from  cove  to  cove. 

It  is  9  M.  by  road  from  Fogo  to  Cape  Fogo;  7  M.  to  Shoal  Bay ;  6  to  Joe  Batt's 
Arm  (400  inhabitants) ;  7  to  Little  Seldom -come-by ;  and  9  to  Seldom-eome-by,  a 
considerable  village  on  a  fine  safe  harbor,  which  is  often  filled  with  fleets  of  schoon^ 
ers  and  brigs,  if  ice  on  the  coast  or  contrary  winds  prevent  the  fishermen  from 
reaching  Labrador  in  the  early  summer,  hundreds  of  sail  bear  away  for  this  harbor, 
and  wait  here  until  the  northern  voyage  is  practicable.  There  is  no  other  secure 
anchorage  for  over  50  M.  down  the  coast  Tilton  Harbor  is  on  the  £.  coast  of  the 
Island,  and  is  a  Catholic  village  of  about  400  inhabitants.  The  principal  settlements 
reached  by  boat  from  Fogo  are  Apsey  Cove,  14  M. :  Indian  Islands,  14;  BiacKhead 
Cove,  14 ;  Rocky  Bay,  25 ;  Barr'd  Islands,  4 ;  and  Change  Islands,  8.  20  M  S.  W. 
is  Gander  Bay ,  the  outlet  of  the  great  Gander-Bay  Ponds,  which  bathe  the  slopes  of 
the  Blue  Hills  and  the  Heart  Ridge,  a  chain  of  mountains  30  M.  long. 

From  Easphits  Island  (see  page  205)  boats  pass  S.  Vi  M.  through  a  great 
archipelago  to  the  mouth  of  the  River  of  Exploits.  This  noble  river  de- 
scends from  Red-Indian  Pond,  about  90  M.  to  the  S.  W.,  and  has  a  strong 
current  with  frequent  rapids.  The  Grand  Falls  are  145  ft.  high,  where 
the  stream  breaks  through  the  Chute-Brook  Hills.  An  Indian  trail  leads 
from  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  S.  W.  across  the  vast  barrens  of  the  in- 
terior, to  the  Bay  of  Despair,  on  the  S.  coast  of  Newfoundland.  The  River 
of  Exploits  flows  for  the  greater  part  of  its  course  through  level  lowlands, 
covered  with  evergreen  forests.  It  may  be  ascended  in  steamers  for  12 
M.,  to  the  first  rapid,  and  from  thence  to  the  -Red-Indian  Fond  by  boats 
(making  frequent  portages). 

.  The  river  was  first  ascended  by  Lieut.  Buchan,  R.  N.,  in  1810,  under  orders  to  find 
and  conciliate  the  Red  Indians,  who  had  fled  to  the  interior  after  being  nearly  ex- 
terminated by  the  whites.  He  met  a  party  of  them,  and  left  hostages  in  their  hands 
while  he  carried  some  of  their  number  to  the  coast.  But  his  guests  decamped,  and 
he  returned  only  to  find  that  the  hostages  had  been  cruelly  murdered,  and  the  tribe 
had  fied  to  the  remote  int  ^rior.  In  1823  three  squaws  were  captured,  taken  to  St. 
John,  loaded  with  presents,  and  released ;  since  which  time  no  Red  Indians  have 
bean  seen,  and  it  is  not  known  whether  the  tribe  is  extinct,  or  has  fled  to  Iiabrador, 


RED-INDIAN  POND. 


JtouUBS,      211 


or  ti  Melnded  in  aome  mors  ramot*  part  of  the  interior.  Thej  were  very  nvmnooM 
at  the  time  of  the  adrent  of  the  Europeans,  and  reoeired  the  new-comera  with  con- 
fldence ;  bat  thereafter  for  two  centuries  they  were  hunted  down  for  the  sake  of  the 
rich  fiirs  in  their  possemion,  and  i^radually  retired  to  the  distant  inland  lakes. 

In  1827  the  BcQothic  Society  of  §t  John's  sent  out  envoys  to  find  the  Red  Indians 
and  open  friendlj'  intercourse  with  tbeoi.  But  they  were  unable  to  get  sight  of  a 
single  Indian  during  long  weeks  of  rambling  through  the  interior,  and  it  is  con- 
cluded that  the  race  is  extinct.  On  the  shores  of  the  broad  and  beautiful  Red-Indian 
Pond  Mr.  Cormack  found  several  long-deserted  villages  of  wigwams,  with  canoes, 
and  curious  aboriginal  cemeteries.  This  was  evidently  the  fivorite  seat  of  the  tribe, 
and  from  this  point  their  deer-fences  were  seen  for  over  30  M.  (see  also  pag<7  218). 

Little  Bay  Island  (250  inhabitants),  15  l^I.  from  Tilt  Cove,  is  tlie  most 
favorable  point  from  which  to  visit  Hall's  Bay.  8  M.  S.  W.  are  the  settle^ 
ments  at  the  mouth  of  Hall's  Bay,  of  which  Ward's  Harbor  is  the  chief, 
having  200  inhabitants  and  a  factory  for  canning  salmon.  There  are  valu- 
able salmon-fisheries  near  the  head  of  the  bay.  From  Hall's  Bay  to  the  N. 
and  W.,  and  towards  White  Bay,  are  the  favorite  summer  feeding-grounds 
of  the  immense  herds  of  deer  which  range,  almost  unmolested,  over  the  in- 
terior of  the  island.  The  hunting-grounds  are  usually  entered  from  this 
point,  and  sportsmen  should  secure  two  or  three  well-certified  Micmac 
guides. 

A  veteran  British  sportsman  baa  written  of  this  region  :  "  I  know  of  no  conntrj 
BO  near  England  which  oQcrs  the  eamo  amount  of  inducement  to  the  explorer,  natu- 
ralist, or  sportsman."  It  is  to  be  hoped,  however,  that  no  future  visitors  will  imi- 
tate the  atrocious  conduct  of  a  party  of  London  sportsmen,  who  recently  entered 
these  hunting-grounds  and  massacred  nearly  2,000  deer  during  the  short  season, 
leaving  t'ae  forests  filled  with  decaying  game.  Public  opinion  will  sustain  the  Mic- 
mac Indians,  who  are  dependent  on  tho  deer  for  their  living,  and  who  have  declared 
that  they  will  prevent  a  repetition  of  such  carnage,  or  punish  its  perpetrators  in  a 
summary  manner. 

The  Indians  and  the  half-breed  hunters  frequently  cross  the  island  tvova  Hall's 
Bay  by  ascending  Indian  Brook  in  boats  for  about  2o  M.,  and  then  making  a  port- 
age to  the  chain  of  ponds  emptying  into  Grand  Pond,  and  descending  by  Deer  Pond 
and  the  Humbcr  River  (skirting  the  Long  Range)  to  tho  Cay  of  Islands.  The  transit 
is  both  arduous  and  perilous.  20  M.  inland  are  the  mountains  called  the  Tfirea 
Towers,  from  whose  summit  may  be  seen  the  Grand  Pond,  the  Bay  of  Exploits,  and 
the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

The  deer  migrate  to  the  S.  W.  in  the  autumn ,  and  pass  the  winter  near  St.  George's 
Bay  and  Cape  Ray  The  Red  Indians  constructed  many  leagues  of  fence,  from  the 
Bay  of  Notre  Dame  to  Red-Indian  Pond,  by  which  they  intercepted  the  herds  during 
their  passage  to  the  S. ,  and  laid  in  supplies  of  provLions  for  the  winter. 

Ked-Iudian  Pond  is  about  S3  M.  S.  W.  of  Hall's  Bay.  It  is  40  M.  long  by 
5-6  M.  wide,  and  contains  man^  islands.  To  the  S.  lie  the  great  interior  lakes,  ii 
an  unexplored  and  trackless  region.  The  chief  of  these  are  Croaker's  Lake  (10  M. 
distant),  filled  with  islets ;  Jameson's  Lake,  20  M.  long,  between  Serpentine  Mt.  and 
Mt.  Misery ;  Lake  Bathurst,  17  by  5  M. ;  and  George  IV.  Lake,  18  by  6  M.  15  M. 
W.  of  Red-Indian  Pond  is  Grand  Pond,  which  is  60  M.  long.    (See  page  218. ) 

From  Nipper- s  Harbor  the  sportsman  may  pass  up  Green  Bay,  to  the  S.  W.,  and 
eater  the  hunting-grounds  (having  first  taken  care  to  secure  trusty  guides).  On  the 
N.  side  of  the  bay  is  a  copper-mine  that  was  opened  in  1869,  and  has  yielded  well. 

Tilt  Cove  is  23  M.  from  Hall's  Bay,  80  M.  from  New  Bay,  and  24  M.  from  Nim- 
rod.  7  M.  distant  is  Burying  Place,  a  small  fishing-village,  near  which  have  been 
found  numerous  birch-bark  coffins  and  other  memorials  of  the  Red  Indians.  A  road 
runs  N.  E  from  Tilt  Cove,  passing  in  3  M.  Round  Harbor,  which  is  prolific  iu  cop- 
per ;  and  in  4  M  Shoe  Cove,  famous  for  trout,  and  the  station  of  a  government  boat 
which  here  watches  the  French  fisheries.  A  road  runs  N.  7  M.  from  Shoe  Cove  to 
La  Scit,  on  the  Frenoh  Shore  (see  Route  61). 


21Sf     JlouU  69. 


PLACENTIA  BAT. 


00.   PlacentiaBay 

Is  included  between  Cape  St.  Mary  and  Cape  Chapean  Ronge,  and  is  48 
M.  wide.  Flaoentia  is  tiie  capital  of  the  eastern  sliore,  dnd  is  a  port  of 
entry  and  post-town,  80  M.  from  St.  Joiin's  by  road.  It  is  built  along  a 
level  strand,  overshadowed  by  round  detached  hills,  and  maintains  a  large 
fleet  of  fishing-boats.  There  are  remarkable  cliffs  on  Point  Verde  and 
Dixon  Island,  near  the  town ;  and  the  views  from  Signal  Hill  and  Castle 
Hill  extend  far  out  over  the  bay.  There  is  much  romantic  scenery  along 
the  narrow  channels  of  the  N.  E.  and  S.  E.  Arms,  which  extend  from  the 
h&rbor  in  among  the  mountains. 

In  the  year  1660  Placentia  Bay  was  entered  by  two  French  frigates,  which  eaUcd  up 
into  tbe  harbor  and  landed  a  strong  force  of  soldiers,  with  heavy  artillery  and  other 
munitions.  Here  they  erected  a  strong  fort,  occupying  a  point  so  near  the  channel 
that  the  Baron  La  Hontan  (who  was  detached  for  duty  here)  said  that  '*  ships  going 
in  graze  (so  to  speak)  upon  the  angle  of  the  bastion."  The  French  held  this  post 
until  1713,  when  it  was  surrendered,  according  to  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  Utrecht. 
Tbe  port  became  famous  as  the  resort  of  the  French  privateers  which  were  destroy* 
log  the  English  fisheries,  and  Commodore  Warren  was  sent  out  (in  1692)  with  three 
60-gUD  frigates  and  two  smaller  vessels  to  destroy  the  town.  Warren  ran  in  close 
to  Placentia  and  opened  fire,  but  was  warmlv  received  by  the  batteries  at  the  en- 
trance and  by  Fort  St.  Louis.  After  a  heavy  cannonade  of  six  hours'  duration,  the 
English  fleet  was  forced  to  draw  off.  In  1696  Iberville  gathered  14  war-vessels  at 
Placentia,  and  having  received  400  men  of  Quebec,  sailed  to  the  E.  and  overran  all 
the  Atlantic  coast  of  Newfoundland,  returning  with  40-50  prize-ships  and  600 
prisoners.  In  1697  the  great  French  fleet,  which  (under  Iberville)  destroyed  all 
the  British  posts  on  Hudson's  Bay,  gathered  here.  So  much  did  the  British  dread 
the  batteries  of  Placentia  and  the  warlike  enthusiasm  of  M-  de  Ccstabelle,  its  com- 
mander, that  Admiral  Walker,  anchored  at  Sydney,  with  a  splendid  fleet  carrying 
4,000  land-soldiers  and  900  cannon,  refused  to  obey  his  orders  to  reduce  this  little 
French  fortress,  and  sailed  back  to  Britain  in  disgrace.  When  France  surrendered 
Newfoundland,  in  1713,  the  soldiers  and  citizens  of  Placentia  migrated  to  Cape  Bre- 
ton ;  and  in  1744  a  French  naval  expedition  under  M.  de  Brotz  failed  to  recapture 
It  from  the  British.  This  town  afterwards  became  one  of  the  chief  ports  of  the 
Province ;  but  has  of  late  years  lost  much  of  its  relative  importance.  A  road  runs 
hence  to  St.  John's  in  80  M. ;  also  through  the  settlements  on  the  S.  to  Bisiress 
Cove  in  26  M. ;  also  S.  W.  38  M.  to  Tranch,  on  St.  Mary's  Bay. 

Little  Placentia  is  on  a  narrow  harbor  6  M.  N.  of  Placentia,  and  has  388 
inhabitants.  Near  this  point  is  a  bold  peak  of  the  western  range  in 
Avalon,  from  which  67  ponds  are  visible.  The  islands  in  the  bay  are 
visited  from  this  point.  Ram's  Islands  (133  inhabitants)  are  10  M.  dis- 
tant; Red  Island  (227  inhabitants)  is  12  M.  W.;  and  about  IS  M.  distant  is 
Merasheen  Island,  which  is  21  M.  long,  and  has  on  its  W.  coast  the  Ragged 
Islands,  365  in  number.  The  great  lead-mines  at  Lm  Manche  are  12  M.  N. 
of  Little  Placentia,  on  the  Isthmus  of  Avalon,  7  M.  from  Trinity  Bay.  At 
the  head  of  the  bay,  83  M.  from  Little  Placentia,  is  the  village  of  North 
Harbor,  near  the  great  Powder-Horn  Hills,  and  7  M.  beyond  is  Black 
River,  famous  for  its  wild-fowl  and  other  game. 

Harbor  Buffet  is  16  M.  fh>m  Little  Placentia,  on  the  lofty  and  indented  Long 
Island,  and  has  333  inhabitants.  Near  the  S.  W.  part  of  Placentia  Bay  is  the  town 
and  port  of  Burlu,  a  station  of  the  Western  Coastal  steamers  (see  page  214). 


ST.  MARY'S  BAY. 


RouU  GO.      213 


B,  and  Is  48 
L  is  a  port  of 
,uilt  along  a 
itains  a  large 
it  Verde  and 
ill  and  Castle 
icenery  along 
end  from  the 

which  eaUcd  up 
ilkry  and  other 
«ar  the  channel 
at  *'  ships  going 
I  held  this  post 
eaty  of  Utrecht, 
h  were  destroy- 
1692)  with  three 
ren  ran  in  close 
teries  at  the  en- 
rs'  duration,  the 
14  war-vessels  at 
and  overran  aU 
e-ships  and  600 
Ic)  destroyed  all 
the  British  dread 
stahelle,  its  com- 
lid  fleet  carrying 
reduce  this  little 
Bnce  surrendered 
ited  to  Cape  Bre- 
iled  to  recapture 
ihief  ports  of  the 
ce.    A  road  runs 
the  S.  to  Disiress 

tia,  and  has  3f3 
jstem  range  in 
in  the  bay  are 
)  are  10  M.  dis- 

18  M.  distant  is 
:oast  the  Ragged 
,cAe  are  12  M.  N. 
Trinity  Bay.   At 

village  of  North 
)eyond  is  Black 

_nd  indented  Long 
lia  Bay  Is  the  town 
«e  page  214). 


60.   The  Western  Ontports  of  Newfoundland.  —  St.  John*! 

to  Cape  Ray. 

On  aUi»mate  Thurndayn  or  Prldayn  nf>cr  the  arrival  of  the  mails  fW«n  Earope,  th« 
Wr-stern  Coastal  Fteani^r  leaves  St.  John's  for  the  ontports  on  the  S.  shore 

Farcft.  —  St.  John's  to  Ferrvland,  10  s. ;  Renewse,  10  s.  :  Trepassey,  17  «.  6d.  ; 
S^.  Marv's  or  Placentia,  20s. :  Burin.  25  8  ;  St.  Lawrence,  27s.  6d. ;  Grand  Bank, 
a«>s.:  St.  Pierre,  82s.  6d. ;  Harhor  Briton,  37 «  6d  ;  Gaultols  or  Great  Jervoia, 
87s.  6d.  :  Burpeo,  45  s. ;  La  Poile,  47  s.  6d. ;  Rose  Blanche,  50s  ;  Channel,  66s. ; 
Sydney,  70  s.    Meals  are  included.    The  trip  out  and  back  takes  10  to  12  days. 

St.  John's  to  Cape  Race,  see  Route  54. 

Passln*  through  the  rocky  portals  of  the  harbor  of  St.  John's,  the 
steamer  directs  her  course  to  the  S.  along  the  iron-bound  Strait  Shore. 
After  visiting  Ferryland  and  Renewse  (see  page  198),  the  Red  Hills  are 
pcen  in  the  W. ;  and  beyond  the  lofty  bare  summit  of  Cape  Ballard,  the 
dreaded  cliffy  of  Cape  Baoe  (page  199)  are  rounded  well  off  shore.  Off 
Freshwater  Point  the  course  is  changed  to  N.  W.,  and  Trepassey  Bay  is 
entered.  The  shores  are  lofty  and  bare,  and  open  to  the  sweep  of  the 
sea.  8^  M.  from  Freshwater  Point  is  Powles  Head,  on  whose  W.  side  the 
harbor  of  Trepassey  is  sheltered.  The  town  contains  614  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  are  engaged  in  the  fisheries,  anJ  fronts  on  a  secure  harbor  which 
U  never  closed  by  ice.  Roads  lead  hence  to  Salmonier  (31  M  )  and  Renewse. 

In  1628  Lord  Baltimore's  ships  of  Avalon,  the  Benediction  and  the  Vtctorvy,  entered 
Trepassey  Bay  under  full  sail,  bent  on  attacking  the  French  settlement.  The  Bene- 
diction first  greeted  the  fleet  with  several  cauuon-shot,  after  which  she  sent  a  terriflo 
broadside  among  the  vessels.  The  Basque  sailors  fled  to  the  shore,  and  the  Victory ^ 
lowering  her  boats,  took  possession  of  all  the  vessels  in  the  harbor  and  bore  them 
away  as  prizes.  The  town  of  i'repassey  was  destroyed  by  a  British  naval  attack  in  1702. 

The  steamer  now  runs  S.  W.  to  and  around  Cape  Fine,  on  which  ia  a 
tall  circular  tower  which  upholds  a  fixed  light  314  ft.  above  the  sea,  visible 
at  a  distance  of  24  M.  1  M.  W.  N.  W.  is  Cape  Freels,  a  little  beyond 
which  is  St.  Shot's  Bay. 

This  narrow  shore  between  Cape  Pine  and  St.  Shot's  is  said  to  be  the  most  danger* 
ous  and  destructive  district  on  the  North  American  coast,  and  has  been  the  scene  of 
hundreds  of  shipwrecks.  The  conflicting  and  variable  ^.urrents  in  these  waters  set 
toward  the  shore  with  great  force,  and  draw  vessels  inward  upon  the  ragged  ledges. 
In  former  years  disasters  were  frequent  here,  but  at  present  mariners  are  warned 
ofT  by  the  Admiralty  charts  and  the  lights  and  whistles.  St.  Shot's  is  as  dreaded  a 
name  on  the  N  coast  as  Cape  Hatteras  is  in  the  southern  sea.  Inl816  the  transport 
Harpooner  was  wrecked  on  Cape  Pine,  and  200  people  were  lost. 

St.  Mary's  Bay  U  bounded  by  Cape  Freels  and  Lance  Point,  and  extends  for  28 
M.  into  the  Peninsula  of  Avalon.  On  the  £.  shore  is  St.  Mary^s,  a  court-hou.<:e  town 
and  port  of  entry,  situated  on  a  deep  land-looked  harbor,  and  largely  engaged  in 
fishing.  To  the  S.  is  the  mountainous  Cape  English,  near  which  a  narrow  sandy 
be:ic'a  separates  the  bay  from  Holyrood  Pond,  a  remarkable  body  of  fresh  water  over 
12  M.  long.  It  is  65  M.  by  road  from  St.  Mary's  to  St.  John's  ;  and  at  16  M.  dis- 
tance the  village  of  Salmonier  is  reached.  This  is  a  fishing  and  farming  town  near 
the  outlet  of  the  broad  Salmonier  River,  famous  for  its  great  salmon.  To  the  N.  W., 
at  the  head  of  the  bay,  is  some  striking  scenery,  near  Colinet  Bay,  where  empties 
the  Hodge-Water  River,  descending  from  the  Quemo-Gospen  Ponds,  in  the  interior 
of  Avalon.  There  are  several  small  hamlets  in  this  vicinity ;  and  Colinet  is  accessible 
by  land  ttom  St.  John's  in  66  M.  The  W.  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay  is  mountainous 
and  rugged,  and  has  no  settlements  of  any  consequence. 


214     Route  60. 


FORTUNE  BAY. 


Beyond  the  bold  Cape  St  Mary  the  steamer  mns  to  the  K.  W.  across  t\ie 
wide  entrance  to  Placentia  Bay  (see  page  212).  At  abont  20  M.  froir>  Cape 
St.  Mary  the  sharply  defined  headland  of  Cape  Chapeau  Rouge  becomes 
visible;  and  the  harbor  of  Burin  is  entered  at  about  42  M.  from  Cape  St. 
Mary.  This  harbor  is  the  finest  in  Newfoundland,  and  is  sheltered  by 
islands  whose  cliff-bound  shores  are  nearly  200  ft.  high.  On  Dodding  Head 
is  a  lighthouse  430  ft.  above  the  sea,  bearing  a  revolving  light  which  is 
visible  for  27  M.  Still  farther  up,  and  almost  entirely  land-locked,  is  the 
Burin  Inlet.  The  town  of  Burin  has  1,850  inhabitants,  and  is  an  important 
trading-station,  supplying  a  great  part  of  Placentia  Bay.  The  adjacent 
scenery  is  of  the  boldest  and  most  rugged  character,  the  lofty  islands  vying 
with  the  inland  mountains. 

On  leaving  Burin  the  course  is  laid  to  the  S.  W.,  passing  the  lofty  prom- 
ontories of  Corbin  Head,  Miller  Head,  and  Red  Head.  Beyond  the  tall 
sugar-loaf  on  Sculpin  Point  the  deep  harbors  of  Little  and  Great  St.  Law- 
rence are  seen  opening  to  the  r. ;  and  the  sea-resisting  rock  of  Cape  Chapeau 
Rouge  is  next  passed.  This  great  landmark  resembles  in  shape  the  crown 
of  a  hat,  and  is  t48  ft.  high,  with  sheer  precipices  over  300  ft.  high.  From 
this  point  the  course  is  nearly  straight  for  33  M.,  to  St.  Pierre,  running  well 
off,  but  always  in  sight  of  a  bold  aud  elevated  shore. 

8t.  Pierre,  see  page  185. 

On  leaving  St.  Pierre  the  course  is  to  the  N.,  passing,  in  5  M.,  the  low 
shores  of  Green  Island,  and  then  running  for  a  long  distance  between  the 
Miquelon  Islands  and  May  and  Dantzic  Points  (on  the  mainland),  which 
are  about  12  M.  apart.  When  abodt  half-way  across  Fortune  Bay,  Brunet 
Island  (5  M.  long)  is  passed,  and  on  its  E.  point  is  seen  a  lighthouse  408  ft. 
above  the  sea,  showing  a  flashing  light  for  25  M.  at  sea.  6  M.  beyond  this 
point  is  Sagona  Island,  with  its  village  of  fishermen ;  and  6  M.  farther  N. 
the  steamer  enters  Harbor  Briton.  Here  is  an  Anglican  village  of  about 
850  inhabitants,  with  an  extensive  local  trade  along  the  shores  of  Fortune 
Bay.  The  harbor  is  very  secure  and  spacious,  and  runs  far  into  the 
land.  This  town  was  settled  in  1616  by  Welshmen,  and  was  then  named 
Canibriol. 

Fortune  Bay 

Is  included  between  Point  May  and  Pass  Island,  and  is  85  M.  vide  and  66  M.  long. 
fortune  is  a  town  of  over  800  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  entrance  of  the  bay, 
and  on  the  Laualine  road.  Its  enerf^es  are  chiefly  devoted  to  the  fisheries  and  to 
trading  with  St  Pierre.  8  M.  E.  N.  £.  are  the  highlands  of  Gape  Grand  Bank,  from 
which  the  shore  trends  N.  £.  by  the  hamlets  of  Garnish  and  Frenchman's  Cove  to 
Point  Enrag^e.  The  E.  and  N.  shores  are  broken  by  deep  estuaries,  in  which  are 
small  fishing-settlements  ;  and  in  the  N.  W.  comer  are  the  North  and  East  Bays, 
&mouA  for  herring-fisheries,  which  attract  large  fleets  of  American  vessels.  On  the 
W.  shore  in  the  prosperous  village  of  BelleoreiU)  engaged  in  the  cod  and  herring 
fisheries,  and  distant  15  M.  from  Harbor  Briton.  Roads  lead  from  this  point  to  the 
villages  of  Barrow,  Blue  Pinion,  Corbin,  English  Harbor  West,  Coombs'  Cove,  and 
St.  Jaques.  The  other  settlements  on  the  W.  shore  are  mere  fishing-stations,  closely 
hemmed  in  between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  and  ate  visited  by  boats  firom  Harbor 
Bxitrai. 


BUBOEO. 


RoitU  €0.     215 


Hermltmse  B»j  li  m  eztenrir*  bight  of  the  Ma  to  the  N.  of  Pus  UUmd.    Iti 

Krinuipal  town  is  Htrmitage  Cove,  an  Anglican  settlement  9  H.  from  Harbor  Briton. 
r.  of  the  bay  is  Long  Island,  which  is  26  M.  around,  and  shelters  the  Bay  of  De* 
spalrf  famous  for  its  prolific  salmon-flsheries.  From  the  liead  of  this  hay  Indian 
trails  Ivad  inland  to  Long  Pond,  Round  Pond,  and  a  great  cluster  of  unTisited  lalies 
situated  in  a  land  of  forests  and  mountains.  From  the  farther  end  of  tlwse  inland 
waters  diverge  the  great  trails  to  the  River  of  Exploits  and  Ilall's  Bay. 

After  running  oat  to  the  S.  W.  between  Sagona  Island  and  Connalgre 
Head,  the  course  is  laid  along  the  comparatively  straight  coast  called  the 
Western  Shore,  extending  from  Fortune  Bay  to  Cape  Kay.  Grossing  the 
wide  estuary  of  Hermitage  Bay,  the  bold  highlands  of  Cape  La  Hune  are 
approached,  12  M.  N.  of  the  Penguin  Islands.  About  25  M.  W.  of  Cape 
La  Hune  the  steamer  passes  the  Ramea  IdandSj  of  which  the  isle  called 
Columbe  is  remarkable  for  its  height  and  boldness.  There  is  a  fishing- 
community  located  here ;  and  the  August  herrings  are  held  as  very 
choice. 

The  old  jnarlne  records  report  of  the  Ramea  Isles :  "  In  which  isles  are  so  gnat 
abundance  of  the  huge  and  ojightie  sea-oxen  with  great  teeth  in  the  moneths  of 
April,  Mav,  and  June,  that  there  haue  been  fifteene  hundreth  IdUed  there  by  one 
small  barke  in  the  yeere  1591." 

In  1597  the  English  ship  Hopewell  entered  the  harbor  of  Ramea  and  tried  to 
plunder  the  French  vessels  there  of  their  stores  and  powder,  but  was  forced  by  a 
shore-battery  to  leave  incontinently. 

About  9  M.  W.  N.  W.  of  Ramea  Columbe,  the  steamer  enters  the  har- 
bor of  Burgeo,  a  port  of  entry  and  trading-station  of  650  inhabitants,  sit- 
uated on  one  of  the  Burgeo  Isles,  which  here  form  several  small,  snug 
harbors.  This  town  is  the  most  important  on  the  Western  Shore,  and 
is  a  favorite  resort  for  vessels  seeking  supplies.  8  M.  distant  is  Vjaper 
BurgeOj  built  on  the  grassy  sand-banks  of  a  small  islet;  and  7  M.  N.  is 
the  salmon-fishery  at  Grandy's  Brook,  on  the  line  of  the  N.  Y.,  N.  F.  and 
London  Telegraph. 

Beyond  the  Burgeo  Isles  the  course  Is  laid  along  the  Western  Shore,  and 
at  about  25  M.  the  massive  heights  at  the  head  of  Grand  Bruit  Bay  are 
seen.  5  M.  farther  on,  after  passing  Ireland  Island,  the  steamer  turns  into 
La  Poile  Bay,  a  narrow  arm  of  the  sea  which  cleaves  the  hills  for  10  M. 
The  vessel  ascends  3  M.  to  La  Poile  (Little  Bay),  a  small  and  decadent 
fishing-village  on  the  W.  shore. 

The  distance  from  La  Poile  to  Channel,  the  last  port  of  call,  is  30  M., 
and  the  coast  is  studded  with  small  hamlets.  Garia  Bay  is  5-6  M.  W. 
of  La  Poile,  and  has  two  or  three  villages,  situated  amid  picturesque 
scenery  and  surrounded  by  forests.  Bose  Blanche  is  midway  between 
La  Poile  and  Channel,  and  is  a  port  of  entry  with  nearly  600  inhabitants, 
situated  on  a  small  and  snug  harbor  among  the  mountains.  It  has  a  con- 
siderable trade  with  the  adjacent  fishing-settlements.  8  M.  beyond  Rose 
Blanche  are  the  Burnt  Islands^  and  3  M.  farther  on  are  the  Dead  Idands, 
At  8-10  M.  inland  are  seen  the  dark  and  desolate  crests  of  the  Loog- 
Range  Mountains,  sheltering  the  Codroy  Valley. 


21  &    Jtouuet 


PORT  AU  BASQUE. 


The  I>ead  IslMids  (French,  Lea  IsUa  aux  Morts)  are  bo  named  on  aeeount  of 
the  many  fttal  wie^  which  have  occurred  on  their  dark  roclu.  The  name  i>af 
siTen  after  the  lose  of  an  emigrant-ship,  when  the  islands  were  bo  fringed  with 
human  corpses  that  it  took  a  gang  of  men  five  days  to  bury  them.  Qeonro  Harvey 
formerly  lived  on  one  of  the  islands,  and  saved  hundreds  of  lives  by  bolcHy  putting 
out  to  the  wrecked  ships.  About  1880  the  Dispatch  struck  on  one  of  the  isles,  fehe 
was  fuU  of  immigrants,  and  her  boats  could  not  live  in  the  heavj-  gale  which  was 
rapidly  breaking  her  up.  But  Ilarvey  pushed  out  in  hia  row-boat,  attended  only 
by  his  daughter  (17  years  old)  and  a  boy  12  years  old.  He  landed  every  one  of  the 
passengers  and  crew  (lb3  in  number)  safely,  and  fed  them  for  three  weeks,  inso- 
much that  his  fiunily  had  nothing  but  fish  to  eat  all  winter  after.  In  1888  the 
Glasgow  ship  Ranlnn  struck  a  rock  off  the  isles,  and  went  to  pieces,  the  crew  cling- 
ing to  the  stern-rail.  In  spite  of  the  heavy  sea,  Harvey  rescued  them  all  (25  in 
niuuber),  by  making  four  trips  in  his  punt.  "  The  whole  coast  between  La  Poile 
and  Cape  Bay  seems  to  have  been  at  one  time  or  other  strewed  with  wrecks.  Every 
house  is  surrounded  with  old  rigging,  f^pars,  masts,  sails,  ships'  bells,  rudders, 
wheels,  and  other  matters.  The  houses  too  contaia  telescopes,  compasses,  and  por- 
tions of  ships' fhmiture."  (Prof.  Jukes.) 

Channel  (or  Port  au  Basque)  is  3-4  M.  W.  of  the  Dead  Isles,  and  80 
M.  from  La  Poile.  It  is  a  port  of  entry  and  a  transfer-station  of  the  N.  Y., 
N.  F.  and  London  Telegraph  Company,  and  has  nearly  600  inhabitants, 
with  an  Anglican  church  and  several  mercantile  establishments.  The 
fisheries  are  of  niuch  importance,  and  large  quantities  of  halibut  are 
caught  in  the  vicinity.  A  few  miles  to  the  W.  is  the  great  Table  Mt.y 
over  Cape  Ray,  beyond  which  the  French  Shore  turns  to  the  N.  A 
Bchooiier  leaves  Port  au  Basque  every  fortnight,  on  the  arrival  of  the 
steamer  from  St.  John's,  and  carries  the  mails  N.  to  St.  George's  Bay,  the 
Bay  of  Islands,  and  Bonne  Bay  (see  Eoute  61). 

The  steamer,  on  every  alternate  trip,  runs  S.  W.  from  Channel  to  Syd- 
ney, Cape  Breton.  The  course  is  across  the  open  sea,  and  no  land  is  seen, 
after  the  mountains  about  Cape  Ray  sink  below  the  horizon,  until  the 
shores  of  Cape  Breton  are  approached. 

Sydney,  see  page  160. 

6L    The  French  Shore  of  Newfoundland.— Cape  Kay  to 

Cape  St  John. 

It  is  not  likely  that  any  tourists,  except,  perhaps,  a  few  adventurous  yachtsmen, 
will  visit  this  district.  It  is  destitute  of  hotels  and  roads,  and  has  only  one  short 
aud  infrequent  mail-packet  route.  The  only  settlements  are  a  few  widely  scattered 
fishing-villages,  iobabited  by  a  rude  and  hardy  class  of  mariners ;  and  no  form  of 
local  government  has  ever  been  established  on  any  part  of  the  shore.  But  the  £ditor 
is  reluctant  to  pass  over  such  a  vast  extent  of  the  coast  of  the  Maritime  Provinces 
without  some  brief  notice,  especially  since  this  district  is  in  many  of  its  features  so 
unique.  The  Editor  was  unable,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season,  to  visit  the 
French  Shore  in  person,  but  has  been  aided  in  the  preparation  of  the  following 
note»,  both  by  gentlemen  who  have  traversed  the  coast  and  the  inland  lakes,  and 
by  various  statistics  of  the  Provioce.  It  is  therefore  believed  that  the  ensuing 
itinerary  is  correct  in  all  its  main  features.  The  distances  have  been  verified  by 
comparison  with  the  British  Admiralty  charts. 

The  French  Shore  may  be  visited  by  the  trading-schooners  which  run  firom  port 
to  port  throughout  its  whole  extent  during  the  summer  season.  The  most  interest- 
ing parts  of  it  may  also  be  seen  by  taking  the  mail-packet  which  leaves  Port  au 
Basque  (Channel)  fortnightly,  and  ruuB  N.  to  Bonne  Bay,  touching  all  along  the 
ooast. 


CAFE  BAT. 


R(mU6L      217 


loeonmtof 
name  y^ 
Lnged  witU 
•ge  HarTtsy 
illy  putting 
idles,    fehe 
.  \rbich  was 
«nded  only 
r  one  of  the 
ireeks,  inso- 
In  1888  the 
I  crew  clSng- 
n  all  (25  fa    > 
«n  La  Poile 
ckB.    Every 
lis,  rudders, 
es,  and  pot- 
ties, and  80 
ftheN.  Y., 
nhabitants, 
aents.    The 
halibut  are 
TabU  Mt.t 
the  N.    A 
rival  of  the 
e's  Bay,  the 

nnel  to  Syd- 
land  is  seen, 
n,  until  the 


ye  Bay  to 


M  yachtsmen, 
jnly  one  short 
idely  scattered 
nd  no  form  of 
But  the  Editor 
time  Provinces 
Its  features  po 
n,  to  visit  the 
f  the  following 
and  lakes,  and 
it  the  ensuing 
sen  verified  by 

run  firom  port 
,  most  interest- 
leaves  Port  au 
all  along  thn 


The  Frencli  Sh<»re  extends  from  Gape  St.  John  (N.  of  Notra  Dam*  Bay) 
aionnd  the  N.  and  W.  coasts  of  the  island  to  Cape  Ray,  including  the  richest  ral- 
leys  and  fidrest  soil  of  Newfoundland.  It  is  nearly  exempt  firom  fogs,  borders  on 
the  most  prolific  fishing-grounda,  and  is  called  the  "  Garden  of  Newfoundland." 
By  the  treaties  of  1713, 1768,  and  1788,  the  French  received  the  right  to  catch  and 
cure  fish,  and  to  erect  huts  and  stages  along  this  entire  coast,  —  a  concession  of 
which  they  have  availed  themselves  to  the  fullest  extent.  There  are  several  British 
colonies  along  the  shore,  but  they  live  without  law  or  magistrates,  since  the  home 
government  believes  that  such  appointments  would  be  against  the  spirit  of  the 
treaties  with  France  (which  practically  neutralized  the  coast).  The  only  authority 
is  that  which  is  given  by  courtesy  to  the  resident  clergymen  of  the  settlements. 

It  is  9  M.  from  Channel  to  Cape  Ray,  where  the  French  Shore  begins.  The  dis* 
tances  firom  this  point  are  given  as  between  harbor  and  harbor,  and  do  not  represent 
the  straight  course  from  one  outport  to  another  at  a  great  distance. 

Cape  Kay  to  Codroy ,  13  M. ;  Cape  Anguille,  18  (Crabb's  Brook,  45 ;  Middle  Branch, 
60 ;  Robinson's  Point,  55 ;  Flat  Bay,  57 ;  Sandy  Point,  65 ;  Indian  Head,  75) ;  Cape 
St.  Qeorge,  54 ;  Port  au  Port  (Long  Point),  84 ;  Bay  of  Islands,  108 ;  Cape  Orcgory, 
125;  Bonne  Bay,  140;  OreenCove.  147 ;  Cow  Harbor,  158  ;  Portland  Bill,  176 ;  Bay 
of  Ingornachoix  (Point  Rich),  206 ;  Portau  Choix,  208 ;  Point  Ferolle,  220 ;  Flower 
Cove,  245;  Savage  Cove,  249 ;  Sandy  Bay,  250;  Oreen  Island.  255;  Cape  Norman, 
285 ;  Pistolet  Island,  292 ;  Noddy  Harbor,  806 ;  Quirpon  (Cape  Bauld),  810 ;  Griguet 
Bay,  321;  St.  Lunaire,  326;  Braha  Bay,  330;  St.  Anthony,  336;  Goose  Harbor 
(Hare  Bay),  340  ;  Harbor  de  Yeau,  348  ;  St.  Julien,  353 ;  Croque,  358 ;  Conche,  378 ; 
Canada  Bay,  387;  Great  Harbor  Deep,  410;  La  Fleur  de  Lis,  432 ;  La  Sole,  455:  Gape 
St.  John,  m 

♦  Cape  Ray  is  the  S.  W.  point  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  strikingly  pic- 
turesque in  its  outlines.  3  M.  from  the  shore  rises  a  great  table-moun- 
tain,  with  sides  1,700  ft.  high  and  an  extensive  plateau  on  the  summit. 
Nearer  the  sea  is  the  Sugar  Loaf,  a  symmetrical  conical  peak  800  ft.  high, 
N.  of  which  is  the  Tolt  Peak,  1,280  ft.  high.  These  heights  may  be  seen 
for  50  M.  at  sea,  and  the  flashing  light  on  the  cape  is  visible  at  night  for  20 
M.  From  this  point  St.  Paul's  Island  bears  S.  W.  42  M.,  and  Cape  North 
is  W.  by  S.  57  M.  (see  page  160). 

Soon  after  passing  out  to  the  W.  of  Cape  Ray,  Cape  Anguille  is  seen  on 
the  N.,  —  a  bold  promontory  nearly  1,200  ft.  high.  Between  these  capes 
is  the  valley  of  the  Great  Codroy  River,  with  a  farming  population  of 
several  hundred  souls;  and  along  its  course  is  the  mountain-wall  called 
the  Long  Bange,  stretching  obliquely  across  the  island  to  the  shores  of 
White  Bay. 

St.  George's  Bay  extend?  for  about  60  M.  inland,  and  its  shores  are 
said  to  be  very  rich  and  fei'tile,  abounding  also  In  coal.  The  scenery 
about  the  hamlet  of  Crabb's  Brook  "forms  a  most  lovely  and  most  Eng- 
lish picture."  There  are  several  small  hamlets  around  the  bay,  of  which 
Sandy  Point  is  the  chief,  having  400  inhabitants  and  2  churches.  The 
people  are  rude  and  uncultured,  fond  of  roaming  and  adventure ;  but  the 
moral  condition  of  these  communities  ranks  high  in  excellence,  and  great 
deference  is  paid  to  the  clergy.  The  Micmac  Ind'ans  are  often  seen  in 
this  vicinity,  and  are  partially  civilized,  and  devout  members  of  the  Catholic 
Church.  The  country  to  the  E.  is  mountainous,  merging  into  wide  grassy 
plains,  on  which  the  deer  pass  the  winter  season,  roaming  about  the  icy 

levels  of  the  great  interior  lakes. 
^       10 


218     RmUeBL 


GRAND  POND. 


Orfmd  Pond  Is  nraally  (and  rarely)  Tisited  tnm  St.  George's  Bay.  After  as* 
cending  the  broad  soond  at  the  head  of  the  bay  for  about  10  M. ,  a  blind  forest-path 
is  entered,  and  the  Indian  guides  lead  the  way  to  the  N.  E.  over  a  vast  expanf^e  of 
moKS  (very  uncomfortable  travelling).  The  Hare-Head  Hills  are  passed,  and  after 
about  16  M.  of  arduous  inarching,  the  truTeller  reaches  the  Grand  Pond.  "And  a 
beautiful  eight  it  was.  A  nurrow  etrip  of  blue  ivater,  widening,  as  it  proceeded,  to 
about  2  M.,  lay  bet^A-cen  bold  rocky  precipices  covered  with  wc^d,  and  rising  almost 
directly  from  the  water  to  a  height  of  6-600  ft.,  having  bare  tops  a  little  farther 
back  at  a  still  gre.'xtt>r  elevation."  The  Bay  Indians  keep  canoes  on  the  pond,  and 
there  are  several  wigwams  on  the  shores.  Game  and  fish  are  abundant  In  these 
woodK  and  waters,  Fince  it  is  but  once  in  years  that  the  all-slaying  white  man 
reaches  the  pond,  and  the  prudeut  Indians  kill  only  enough  for  their  Own  actual 
needs.  There  is  a  loftv  island  20  M.  long,  on  each  side  of  which  are  the  narrow  and 
ravine-like  channels  of  the  pond,  with  an  enormous  depth  of  water.  The  route  to 
Hall's  Bay  (see  page  211)  leads  up  the  river  from  the  N.  £.  corner  of  the  pond 
for  about  85  M.,  pa£MLig  through  four  lakes.  From  the  uppermost  pond  the  canoe 
ia  carried  for  ^  M.  and  put  into  the  stream  which  empties  into  Hall's  Bay.  8  M.  W. 
of  the  inlet  ot  this  river  into  Grand  Pond  is  the  outlet  of  Junction  Brook,  a  rapid 
stream  which  leads  to  the  Humber  River  and  Deer  Pcad  in  8  - 10  M. ,  and  is  passable 
by  canoes,  with  frequent  portages. 

Near  the  M.  end  of  Grand  Pond,  about  the  year  1770,  occurred  a  terrible  battle 
between  the  Micmacs  and  the  Red  Indians,  which  resulted  in  the  extermination  of 
the  latte '  nation.  The  Micmacs  were  a  Catholic  tribe  from  Nova  Scotia,  who  had 
moved  over  to  Newfoundland,  and  were  displacing  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  the 
Red  Indians,  or  Boeqthics.  In  the  great  battle  on  Grand  Pond  the  utmost  deter- 
mination and  spirit  Were  shown  by  the  Boeothics,  invaded  here  in  their  innermost 
retreats.  But  they  had  only  bows  and  arrows,  while  the  Micmacs  were  armed  with 
guns,  and  at  the  close  of  the  battle  not  a  man,  woman,  or  child  of  the  Red  Indiana 
of  this  section  was  left  alive. 

This  region  is  densely  covered  with  forests  of  large  trees  (chiefly  fir  and  spruce), 
alternating  with  ''the  barrens,"  —  vast  tracts  which  are  covered  with  thick  moss. 
Gov.  Sir  John  Harvey,  after  careful  inspection,  claims  that  the  barrens  are  under- 
laid with  luxuriant  soil,  while  for  the  cultivation  of  grasses,  oats,  barley,  and  pota- 
toes there  is  '*  no  country  out  of  England  -or  Egypt  superior  to  it."  The  intense 
and  protracted  cold  of  the  winter  seasons  will  preclude  agriculture  on  a  large  scale. 

These  inland  sohtudes  are  adorned,  during  the  short  hot  summer,  with  many 
brilliant  flowers.  Among  these  are  great  numbers  of  wild  roses,  violets,  iri-'-es, 
pitcher-plants,  heather,  maiden-hair,  and  vividly  colored  Uchens ;  while  (says  Sir 
R.  Bonnycastle)  "  in  the  tribe  of  lilies,  Solomon  in  all  his  glory  exceeded  not  the 
beauty  of  those  produced  in  this  unheeded  wilderness."  The  only  white  man  who 
ever  yet  crossed  vhese  lonely  lands  from  shore  to  shore  was  a  Scotchman  named 
Cormack,  who  walked  from  Trinity  Bay  to  St.  George's  Bay,  in  1822.  He  was  ac- 
companied by  a  Micmac  Indian,  and  the  trip  took  several  weeks.  The  maps  of 
Newfoundland  cover  this  vast  unexplored  region  with  conjectural  mountains  and 
hypothetical  lakes.  The  British  Admiralty  chart  of  Newfoundlund  (Southern  Por- 
tion) omits  most  of  tht'se,  but  gives  minute  and  valuable  topographical  outlines  of 
the  lakes  and  hills  N.  of  the  Bay  of  Despair,  the  Red-Indian  Pond,  and  River  of  Ex- 
ploits, and  the  region  of  the  Grand  Pond  and  Deer  Pond,  with  their  approaches. 

Cape  St.  George  thrusts  a  huge  line  of  precipices  into  the  sea,  and  5  M. 
beyond  is  Red  Island^  surrounded  by  dark  red  cliffs.  26  M.  farther  to  the 
N.  E.  is  the  entrance  to  Port  au  Port,  a  great  double  harbor  of  noble 
capacity.  It  is  separated  from  St.  George's  Bay  by  an  isthmus  but  1  M. 
wide,  at  the  W.  base  of  the  great  Table  Mt. 

The  *  Bay  of  Islands  affords  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  the  Province, 
and  is  sheltered  by  several  small  but  lofty  islands.  The  soil  along  the 
shores  is  said  to  be  deep  and  productive,  and  adapted  to  raising  grain  and 
produce.  Limestone,  gypsum,  and  fine  marble  are  found  here  in  large 
quantities.  There  are  about  1,000  inhabitants  about  the  bay,  most  of 
whom  are  engaged  in  the  herring-fishery. 


HUMBER  RIVER. 


Route  61.      219 


,  At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  the  mouth  of  the  Hnmber  BlTer,  the  largest  river 
in  Newfoundland.  In  the  last  18  M.  of  its  course  it  is  known  as  the  Number  Sound, 
and  is  1  -2  M.  wide  and  50-60  fathoms  deep,  with  lofty  and  rugged  hills  on  either 
Bj  Je.  Great  quantities  of  timber  are  found  on  these  shores,  and  the  trout  and  sal- 
mon fisheries  are  of  considerable  value.  The  river  flows  into  the  head  of  the  sound 
in  a  narrow  and  swift  current,  and  is  ascended  by  boats  to  the  Deer  Pond.  Occa- 
sional cabins  and  clearings  are  seen  along  the  8hores,  inhabited  by  bold  and  hardy 
pioneers.  3  M.  above  the  head  of  the  sound  there  is  a  rapid  1  M.  long,  up  which 
boats  are  drawn  by  lines.  Here  "  the  scenery  is  highly  striking  and  pictureiique, — 
lofty  clifls  of  pure  white  limestone  rising  abruptly  out  of  the  woods  to  a  height  of 
8  -  400  ft  ,  and  being  themselves  clothed  with  thick  wood  round  their  sides  and 
over  their  summits."  Above  the  rapids  the  river  traverses  a  valley  2  M.  wide,  filled 
with  birch-groves  and  hemmed  in  by  high  hills.  The  stream  is  broad  and  shallow 
for  6  M.  above  the  rapids,  where  another  series  of  rapids  is  met,  above  which  are  the 
broad  waters  of  *Deer  Pond,  2-3  M.  wide  and  15  M.  long.  Here  is  the  undis- 
turbed home  of  deer  and  smaller  game,  loons,  gulls,  and  kingfishers.  A  few  Micmac 
Indians  still  visit  these  solitudes,  and  their  wigwams  are  seen  on  the  low  savannas 
of  the  shore.   (See  also  pages  211  and  218) 

"  Beyond  the  forest-covered  hills  which  surround  it  are  lakes  as  beautiful,  and 
larger  than  Lake  George,  the  cold  clear  waters  of  which  flow  to  the  bay  under  the 
name  of  the  river  Humber.  It  has  a  valley  like  Wyoming,  ?.nd  more  romantic 
scenery  than  the  Susquehanna.  The  Bay  of  Islands  is  also  a  bay  of  streams  and  in- 
lets, an  endless  labyrinth  of  clifls  and  woods  and  waters,  where  the  summer  voyager 
would  delight  to  wander,  and  which  is  worth  a  volume  sparkling  vdth  pictures." 

Bonne  Bay  is  23  M.  N.  E.  of  the  Bay  of  Islands,  and  is  a  favorite  resort 
of  American  and  Provincial  fishermen.  Great  quantities  of  herring  are 
caught  in  this  vicinity.  The  mountains  of  the  coast-range  closely  ap- 
proach the  sea,  forming  a  bold  and  striking  prospect;  and  the  rivers  which 
empty  into  the  bay  may  be  followed  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Long  Range. 

The  coast  to  the  N.  N.  W.  for  nearly  70  M.  is  straight,  with  the  slight 
indentations  of  the  Bay  of  St.  Paul  and  Cow  Bay.  The  Bay  of  Ingot  nO' 
choix  has  comparatively  low  and  level  shores,  with  two  excellent  har- 
bors. On  its  N.  point  (Point  Rich)  is  a  lit'hthouse  containing  a  white 
flashing-light  which  is  visible  for  18  M.;  ai;d  2  M.  E.  is  the  tishing-station 
oi  Port  au  Choix,  whence  considerable  quantities  of  codfish  and  herring 
are  exported.  The  Bay  of  St.  John  is  dotted  with  islands,  and  receives 
the  River  of  Castors,  flowing  from  an  imknown  point  in  the  interior,  and 
abounding  in  salmon. 

"  What  a  region  for  romantic  excursions  !  Yonder  are  wooded  mountains  with  a 
sleepy  atmosphere,  and  attractive  vales,  and  a  fine  river,  the  River  Castor,  flowing 
from  a  country  almost  unexplored  ;  and  here  ara  green  isles  spotting  the  sea,  —  the 
islands  of  St.  John.  Behind  them  is  an  expanse  of  water,  alive  with  fish  and  fowl, 
the  extremes  of  which  are  lost  in  the  deep,  untroubled  wilderness.  A  month  would 
not  sufiice  to  find  out  and  enjoy  its  manifold  and  picturesque  beauties,  through 
which  wind  the  deserted  trails  of  the  Red  Indians,  now  extinct  or  banished." 

The  Bay  of  St.  John  is  separated  by  a  narrow  isthmus  from  St.  Mar- 
garet's Bay  (on  the  N.),  on  which  are  the  stations  of  Neto  FeroUe  and  Old 
FeroUe.  Beyond  the  Bays  of  St.  Genevieve  and  St.  Barbe,  with  their  few 
score  of  inhabitants,  is  Flower  Cove,  containing  a  small  hamlet  and  an 
Episcopal  church.  The  great  sealing-grounds  of  the  N.  shore  are  next 
traversed;  and  the  adjacent  coast  loses  its  mountainous  character,  and 
sinks  into  wide  plains  covered  with  grass  and  wild  grain. 


220     JtouUei.         STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE. 

1 1  The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle. 

The  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  is  now  entered,  and  on  the  N.  is  the  lofty  and 
barren  shore  of  Labrador  (or,  if  it  be  night,  the  fixed  light  on  Point 
Amour).  As  Green  Island  is  passed,  the  Red  Cliffs,  on  the  Labrador  shore, 
are  seen  at  about  10  M.  distance.  The  low  limestone  cliffs  of  the  New- 
foundland shore  are  now  followed  to  the  N.  E.,  and  at  30  M.  beyond  Green 
Island,  Cape  Norman  is  reached,  with  its  revolving  light  upheld  on  the 
bleak  dreariness  of  the  spray-swept  hill.  This  cape  is  the  most  northerly 
point  of  Newfoundland. 

The  Sacred  Islands  are  12  M.  S.  E.  by  E.  from  Cape  Norman,  and  soon 
after  passing  them  the  hamlet  of  Quirpon  is  approached.  This  place  is 
situated  on  Quirpon  Island,  4  degrees  N.  of  St.  John's,  and  is  devot^  to 
the  sealing  business.  It  has  an  Episcopal  church  and  cemetery.  Multi- 
tudes of  seals  are  caught  off  this  point,  in  the  great  current  which  sets 
from  the  remote  N.  into  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle.  Hundreds  of  icebergs 
may  sometimes  be  seen  hence,  moving  in  stately  procession  up  the  strait. 
In  front  of  Quirpon  are  the  cold  highlands  of  Jaques-Cartier  Island.  Cape 
Bauld  is  the  N.  point  of  the  island  of  Quirpon,  and  the  most  northerly 
point  of  the  Province. 

14  M.  N.  of  Cape  Bauld,  and  midway  to  the  Labrador  shore,  is  Belle  Isle,  in  the 
entrance  of  the  Htrait.  It  is  9>^  M.  long  and  3  M.  broad,  and  is  utterly  barren  and 
unprofitable.  On  its  S.  point  is  a  lonely  lighthouse,  470  ft.  above  the  sea,  cmstaiu- 
ing  a  fixed  white  light  which  is  Tisiblc  for  28  M.  During  the  dense  and  blinding 
8now-»torma  that  often  sweep  over  the  strait,  a  cannon  is  fired  at  regular  intervals ; 
and  large  deposits  of  provisions  are  kept  hero  for  the  UFe  of  shipwrecked  mariners. 
Between  Dec.  16  and  April  1  tbere  is  no  light  exhibited,  for  these  northern  seus  are 
then  deserted,  save  by  a  few  daring  seal-hunters.  There  is  but  one  point  where  the 
island  can  be  approached,  which  is  l^,  M.  from  the  lighthouse,  and  here  the  stores 
are  landed.  There  is  not  a  tree  or  even  a  bush  ou  the  island,  and  coal  is  imported 
from  Quebec  to  warm  the  hou^e  of  the  keeper, — who,  though  visited  but  twice  a 
year,  ia  happy  and  contented.  The  path  from  the  landing  is  cut  through  the  moss- 
covered  rock,  and  leads  up  a  long  and  steep  ascent. 

In  the  year  1627  "a  Canon  of  St.  Paul  in  London,  which  was  a  great  mathemati- 
cian, and  a  man  indued  with  wealth,"  sailed  for  the  New  World  with  two  ships, 
which  were  fitted  out  by  King  Henry  VIII.  After  they  had  gone  to  the  westward 
for  many  days,  and  had  passed  "  great  Hands  of  Ice,"  they  reached  "  the  mayne 
land,  all  wildernessc  and  uiountaines  and  woodes,  and  no  naturnll  ground  but  all 
niosse,  and  no  habitation  nor  no  people  in  these  parts."  They  entered  the  Strait  of 
Belle  Isle,  and  then  '^  there  arose  a  great  and  a  niaruailous  great  storme,  and  much 
foul  weather,"  during  which  the  ships  vere  separated.  The  captain  of  the  Mary  of 
Guil/orcf  wrote  home  concerning  his  consort-ship :  "  I  trust  in  Alniightie  Jesu  to  heare 
good  newes  of  her";  hut  no  tidings  ever  came,  and  she  was  probably  lost  in  the 
BCitiit,  with  all  on  board. 

The  islands  of  Belle  Islo  and  Quirpon  were  colled  the  Isles  of  DeVnons  *'n  the 
remote  past,  and  the  ancient  mnps  represent  them  as  covered  with  "  devil'*  'am- 
pant,  with  wings,  horns,  and  tails."  They  were  suid  to  be  fascinating  but  malicious, 
and  Andr6  Thcvet  exorcised  them  from  a  band  of  stiicken  Indians  by  repeating  a 
part  of  the  Gospel  of  St.  John.  The  mariners  feared  to  land  on  these  haunted 
Bhores,  and  ''  when  they  pabsed  this  way,  they  beard  in  the  air,  on  the  tops  and 
about  the  masts,  a  great  chimor  of  men's  voices,  confused  and  inarticulate,  cuch  aa 
you  may  hear  from  the  crowd  at  a  fair  or  market-place  ;  whereupon  they  well  knew 
that  the  Isle  of  Demons  was  not  far  off."  The  brave  but  superstitious  Normans 
dared  not  land  on  the  Labrador  without  the  crucifix  in  hand,  believing  that  those 
gloomy  shores  were  guarded  by  great  and  terrible  griffins.    These  qiiaint  legends 


STRAIT  OF  BELLE  ISLE.         RmUe  61.      221 


le  lofty  and 
it  on  Point 
rador  shore, 
»f  the  New- 
jyond  Green 
held  on  the 
St  northerly 

m,  and  soon 
'his  place  is 
3  devoted  to 
ery.  Multi- 
it  -which  sets 
}  of  icebergs 
ap  the  strait, 
sland.  Cape 
ost  northerly 


le  Isle,  in  the 

rly  barren  and 
le  sea,  eustaiu- 
e  and  blinding 
;ular  inUrvals ; 
eked  mariners, 
rthern  seus  are 
»oint  where  the 
here  the  stores 
oal  is  imported 
ed  but  twice  a 
ough  the  moss- 
eat  mathemnti- 
ivith  two  sliips, 
;o  the  westward 
3d  "  the  mayne 

ground  but  all 
■ed  the  Strait  of 
)rme,  and  much 

of  the  Mary  of 
tie  Jesu  to  heare 
ibly  lost  in  the 

leVnons  'n  the 

,h  "  devil^  'am- 
g  but  malicious, 

by  repeating  a 
,  these  haunted 
n  the  tops  and 
iculate,euch  as 
they  well  knew 
titious  Normans 
■Ting  that  those 

quaint  legends 


h 


nndonbtedly  had  a  good  fbundation.  In  July,  1873,  the  coasts  of  the  Stxait  of  Belle 
Isle  were  ravaged  by  bands  of  immense  wolves,  who  devoured  several  human  beings 
and  besieged  the  settlements  for  weeks. 

An  ancient  MS.  of  1586  relates  a  curious  legend  of  Belle  Isle.  Among  the  com- 
pany on  the  fleet  which  was  conducted  through  the  Str&ita  to  Quebec  in  1542,  were 
the  Lady  Marguerite,  niece  of  the  \  '.ceroy  of  New  Frvnce,  auu  her  lover.  Their 
conduct  was  such  as  to  have  scandalized  the  fleet,  and  when  they  reached  the  Isle 
of  Demons,  Roberval,  enraged  at  her  shamelesi^uess,  put  her  on  shore,  with  her  old 
nurse.  The  lover  leaped  from  the  ship  and  joined  the  women,  and  the  fleet  sailed 
away.  Then  the  demons  and  the  hosts  of  hell  began  their  assaults  on  the  forsaken 
trio,  tearing  about  their  hut  at  night,  menacing  them  on  the  shore,  and  assaulting 
them  in  the  forest.  But  the  penitent  sinners  were  guarded  by  invisible  bands  of 
saints,  and  kept  from  peril.  After  many  months,  wearied  by  these  fiendish  assaults, 
the  lover  died,  and  was  soon  followed  by  the  nurse  and  the  child.  Long  thereafter 
lived  Marguerite  alone,  until  finally  a  fishing-vessel  ran  in  warily  toward  the  smoke 
of  her  fire,  and  rescued  her,  after  two  years  of  Ufe  among  demons. 

From  Cape  Bauld  the  coast  runs  S.  by  the  French  sealing-stations  of 
Griguet,  St.  Lunaire,  Braha,  and  St.  Anthony,  to  the  deep  indentation  of 
Hare  Bay,  which  is  18  M.  long  and  6  M.  wide.  A  short  distance  to  the  S. 
is  the  fine  harbor  of  Croque,  a  favorite  resort  for  the  French  fleets  and  a 
coaling-station  for  the  steamers.  The  back  country  is  dismal  to  the  last 
degree. 

To  the  S.  E.  are  the  large  islands  of  Groais  (7  X  3^  M.  in  aTea)and  Belle  Isle  (9  Y  6 
M.).  Running  now  to  the  S.  \V.  by  Cape  Rouge  and  Botitot,  Couche  Harbor  is  seen 
on  the  starboiird  bow,  and  Canada  Bay  in  opened  on  the  W.  Thi.s  great  bay  is 
12  M.  long,  and  is  entered  through  an  intricate  passage  called  the  Narrows,  beyond 
which  it  widens  into  a  safe  and  capacious  biisiu.  The  shores  are  solitary  and  de- 
serted, and  far  inland  are  seen  the  great  hill-ranges  called  The  Clouds.  7  M.  to  the 
S.  W.  is  the  entrance  to  Uoo.iing  Harbor,  and  6  M.  farther  S.  ia  Fourchette,  12  M. 
beyond  which  is  Grmt  Harbor  Deep,  a  long  and  narrow  estuary  with  such  a  depth 
of  water ^thiit  vessels  cannot  anchor  in  it.  This  is  at  the  W.  entrance  of  White 
Bay,  and  ia  1(5  M.  from  l:*artridge  Point,  the  E.  entrance. 

White  Bay  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water  45  M.  long  and  10-15  M.  wide.  It  is  very 
deep,  and  has  uo  islands  except  such  as  are  cloj^e  in  shore.  The  fisheries  are  car- 
ried on  here  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  at  Cat  Cove,  Jackson's  Arm,  Chouse 
Brook,  Wiseman's  Cove,  Seal  Cove,  and  Lobster  Harbor  are  small  settlements  of 
resident  fishermen.  Chouse  Brook  is  situated  amid  noble  scenery  near  the  head 
of  the  bay,  60  M.  by  boat  from  La  Scie.  On  the  highlands  to  the  \V  and  8.  of 
U'hite  Bay  are  the  haunts  of  the  deer,  which  are  usually  entered  ^om  Hall's  Bay  or 
Green  Bay. 

3  M.  S.  E.  of  Partridge  Point  is  La  Fleur  de  Lis  harbor,  so  named  from 
the  simulation  of  the  royal  flower  by  a  group  Of  three  hills  near  its  head. 
Running  thence  to  the  E.,  the  entrances  of  Little  Bay  and  Ming's  Bight 
open  on  the  starboard  side,  and  on  the  port  bow  are  tlie  St.  Barbe,  or  Horse 
Islands.  About  20  M.  from  La  Fleur  de  Lis  is  La  Scie,  the  last  settle 
ment  on  the  French  Shore,  with  its  three  resident  families.  A  road  leads  S, 
7  Al.  from  this  point  to  Shoe  Cove,  on  the  Bay  of  Notre  Dame  (see  page 
211);  and  5  M.  E.  of  La  Scie  is  *Cape  St.  John,  the  boundary  of  the 
French  Shore  on  the  Atlantic. 

"  The  Cape  is  in  fhll  view,  a  promontory  of  shaggy  precipices,  suggestive  of  all  the 
fiends  of  Pandemonium,  rather  than  the  lovely  Apostle  whose  name  has  been  gib~ 

beted  on  the  black  and  dismal  crags As  we  bear  down  toward  the  Cape,  we 

pass  Gull  Isle,  a  mere  pile  of  naked  rocks  delicately  wreathed  with  lace-llke  mists. 
Imagine  the  last  hundred  feet  of  Conway  Peak,  the  very  finest  of  the  New-Hampshire 
mountain-tops,  pricking  above  the  waves,  and  you  will  see  this  little  outpost  and 


Ir 


>^ 


HiBi 


CAPE  ST.  JOHN. 


T  .,,4«oa  AND  BaCCAIAOS,  »'"^V'__  o„  the  west  INUiM. 


)M  gnndMt 
:  black  room 
lea  sweeps. 

t  1^D1E3. 

lor,  w  ^«^1 '^ 
ther  there  bee 
KicBofMaiuca, 
ahulde  greatly 
.ydeislandesof 
The  Vortugale* 
^ndethe  ?'«"«: 
B  of  tbat  lande- 
made  a  vyage 
tie  sougbt. .  .  •  • 
idise.    For  the 
corporature,  ai- 

,dye8,  an^  ^^'^ 

heareinwardem 

levr  bodyes  vath 
T^Teyeatefy^sbe 

tbey^«^^«/°"? 
ae  great  plentie . 
,  and  bea»te9     It 

and  niany  otber 
sat.theBu^^J 

;,  and  bo'".,r.°?we 
'tbyther  with  the 

KX:ude  thereof 
ro^gbtanyknovrt- 

lenry  the  Seuenth, 
thekyngeB.^^om 
orth  Seas,  and  that 
n  by  the  vyage  the 
it  rnaner  of  landea 
'5  rSt*;d  his  coui^ 
.Sfs :  affinnynge 
K  that  he  durst 
^ier  without  nyght, 
^g  the  longest  day 

Se-rtheUTt 
^theBa^calaos-,  aud 
SelandofBaccalaos 

^Sarrortry^at 

^\tybav«Be«1lJ 
3  of  them  go  naked  i5 

rfUtbef^^il 
treat  woodes,  in  wmc 


LABRADOR 


Is  the  great  peninsular  portion  of  North  America  which  lies  to  the  N.  and 
N.  W.  of  Newfoundland,  and  is  limited  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  the 
ocean,  and  Hudson's  Bay.  Jt  extends  from  about  50*^  N.  latitude  to  60", 
and  the  climate  is  extremely  rigorous,  the  mean  temperature  at  Naia 
being  32"  6^  The  land  is  covered  with  low  mountains  and  barren  plateaus, 
on  which  are  vast  plains  of  moss  interspersed  with  rocks  and  bowlders. 
TheriB  are  no  forests,  and  the  inland  region  is  dotted  with  lakes  and 
swamps.  There  are  reindeer,  bears,  foxes,  wolves,  and  smaller  game; 
but  their  number  is  small  and  decreasing.  The  rivers  and  lakes  swarm 
with  fish,  and  the  whole  coast  is  famous  for  its  valuable  fisheries  of  cod 
and  salmon.  At  least  1,000  decked  vessels  are  engaged  in  the  Labra- 
dor fisheries,  and  other  fleets  are  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  seals.  The 
commercial  establishments  here  are  connected  with  the  great  firms  of 
England  and  the  Channel  Islands.  The  Esquimaux  population  is  steadily 
dwindling  away,  and  probably  consists  of  4,000  souls. 

"The  coast  of  Labi-ador  is  the  edge  of  a  vast  solitude  of  rocky  hills,  split  and 
blasted  by  the  frosts,  and  beaten  by  the  waves  of  the  Atlantic,  for  unknown  ages. 
Every  form  into  which  rocks  can  be  washed  and  broken  is  visible  along  its  almost 
interminable  shores.  A  grand  headland,  yellow,  brown,  and  black,  in  its  horrid 
nakedness,  is  ever  in  sight,  one  to  the  north  of  you,  one  to  the  south.  Here  and  there 
upon  them  are  stripes  and  patches  of  pale  green,  —  mosses,  lean  grasses,  and  dwarf 
shrubbery.  Occasionally,  miles  of  precipice  front  the  pea,  in  rvhich  the  fancy  may 
roughly  shape  all  the  structures  of  human  art,  — castles,  palaces,  and  temples.  Im- 
agine an  entire  side  of  Broadway  piled  up  solidly,  one,  two,  three  hundred  feet  in 
height,  often  more,  and  exposed  to  the  charge  of  the  great  Atlantic  rollers,  rush- 
ing into  the  churches,  halls,  and  spacious  buildings,  thundering  through  the  door- 
ways, dashing  in  at  the  windows,  sweeping  up  the  lofty  fronts,  twisting  the  very 
cornices  with  silvery  spray,  falling  back  in  bright  green  scrolls  and  cascades  of  sil- 
very foam ;  and  yet,  all  this  imagined,  can  never  reach  the  sentiment  of  these 
precipices.  More  frequent  than  headlands  and  perpendicular  sea-fronts  are  the 
sea-slope!5,  often  bald,  tame,  and  wearisome  to  the  eye,  now  and  then  the  perfection 
of  all  that  is  picturesque  and  rough,  —  a  precipice  gone  to  pieces,  its  softer  por- 
tions dissolved  down  to  its  roots,  its  flinty  bones  left  standinf^,  a  savage  scene  that 

scares  away  all  thoughts  of  order  and  desiprn  in  nature This  is  the  rosy  time 

of  Labrador  (July).  The  blue  interior  hills,  and  the  stony  vales  that  wind  up 
among  them  ftxim  the  sea,  have  a  summer-like  and  pleasant  air.  I  And  myself 
peopling  these  regions,  and  dotting  their  hills,  valleys,  and  wild  shores  with  human 
habitations.  A  second  thought  —  and  a  mournful  one  it  is  —  tells  me  that  no  men 
toil  in  the  fields  away  there  ;  no  women  keep  the  house  ofT  there ;  there  no  children 
play  by  the  brooks  or  shout  around  the  country  school-house ;  no  bees  come  home 
to  the  h4ve ;  no  smoke  curls  from  the  farm-house  chimney ;  no  orchard  blooms ; 
no  bleating  sheep  fleck  the  mountain-sides  with  whiteness,  and  no  heifer  lows  Id 
the  '.wilight.    There  is  nobody  there ;  there  never  was  but  a  miserable  and  acat- 


224      HauU  62. 


BATTLE  HARBOR. 


tered  few,  and  there  nerer  will  be.  It  ii  a  great  and  terrible  wildemcM  of  a  thoti> 
Kand  miles,  and  lonesome  to  the  very  wild  animabi  and  birds.  Left  to  the  etill  vif- 
iution  of  the  Ught  from  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars,  and  the  auroral  fires,  it  is  only 
fit  to  look  apon  and  then  be  given  ovt-r  to  its  primeval  solitariness.  But  for  the 
living  things  of  its  waterx,  —  the  cod,  the  salmon,  and  the  nail,  —  which  bring  thou> 
sands  of  adventurous  fishermen  and  trddera  to  its  bleak  shores,  Labrador  would  be 
as  desola  'e  as  Greenland. 

*'  For  a  few  days  the  woolly  flocks  of  New  England  would  thrive  in  Labrador. 
During  these  few  days  there  aru  thousands  of  her  lair  daughters  who  would  love  to 
tend  them.  I  prophecy  the  time  is  coming  when  the  invalid  and  tourist  from  the 
States  will  be  often  found  spending  the  brief  but  lovely  summer  here,  notwithstand* 
ing  its  ruggedness  and  desolation."  (B,£V.  L.  L.  Noble.) 

"  Wild  are  the  waves  which  lash  the  reefs  along  St.  George's  bank  ; 
Cold  on  the  coast  of  Labrador  the  fog  lies  white  and  dauk ; 
Through  storm,  and  wave,  and  blinding  miist,  stout  are  the  hearts  wlUch  mto 
The  fishing-smacks  of  Marblehead,  the  sea-boats  of  Cape  Ann. 

"  The  cold  north  light  and  wintry  sun  glare  on  their  icy  forms, 
Bent  grimly  o'er  their  straining  lines,  or  wrestling  with  the  storms ; 
Free  as  the  winds  they  drive  before,  rough  as  the  waves  they  roam. 
They  laugh  to  scorn  the  slaver's  threat  against  their  rocky  home.'' 

John  G.  WHunsB. 

62.  The  Atlantic  Coast  of  Labrador,  to  the  Moravian  Mis- 
sions and  Greenland. 

The  mail-steamer  Hercules  leaves  Battle  Harbor  fortnightly  during  the  sum- 
mer. 

Battle  Harbor  is  a  sheltered  roadstead  between  the  Battle  Islands  and 
Great  Caribou  Island,  i  M.  long  and  quite  narrow.  It  is  a  great  resort  for 
fishermen,  whose  vessels  crowd  the  harbor  and  are  moored  to  the  bold 
rocky  shores.  Small  houses  and  stages  occupy  every  point  along  the 
Bides  of  the  roadstead,  and  the  place  is  very  lively  during  the  fishing  sea- 
son. On  the  W.  is  Great  Caribou  Island,  which  is  9  M.  around,  and  the 
Bteep-shored  S.  E.  Battle  Island  is  the  easternmost  land  of  the  Labrador 
coast.  The  water  is  of  great  depth  in  this  vicinity,  and  is  noted  for  its 
wonderful  ground-swell,  which  sometimes  sweeps  into  St.  Lewis  Sound  in 
lines  of  immense  waves  during  the  calmest  days  of  autumn,  dashing  high 
over  the  islets  and  ledges.  An  Episcopal  church  and  cemetery  were  con- 
secrated here  by  Bishop  Field  in  1850,  and  the  nephew  of  Wordsworth 
(the  poet)  was  for  some  years  its  rector.  The  first  Esquimaux  convert 
was  baptized  in  1857. 

Fox  Harbor  is  3-4  hours'  sail  from  Battle  Island,  across  St.  Lewis 
Sound,  and  is  an  Esquimaux  village  v/ith  igloes,  kayaks,  and  other  -ious 
things  pertaining  to  this  unique  people  There  is  a  wharf,  projecti  into 
the  narrow  harbor  (which  resembles  a  mountain-lake) ;  and  the  houses  are 
clustered  about  a  humble  little  Episcopal  church. 

'•  narlbou  Island  fronts  to  the  N.  on  the  bay  5  -6  M  ,1  should  think,  and  is 
a  rugged  mountain-pile  of  dark  gray  rook,  rounded  in  its  upper  matwes,  and  slashed 
along  its  shores  with  abrupt  ohasinp.  It  drops  short  oif,  at  its  ewitern  extrennty, 
Into  a  narrow  gnlf  of  deep  water.  This  is  Battle  Harbor.  The  billowy  pile  of  igneous 
rook,  perhnps  250  ft  high,  V'^ig  between  this  quiet  water  and  the  broad  Atlantic,  ig 
Battle  Island,  and  the  site  of  the  town At  this  moment  (July)  the  rocky  i^, 


SANDWICH  BAY. 


JtouU  6t,     225 


t%  «hott- 

U  is  only 
ut  for  the 
ringtuou. 

•  would  M 

lAbrador. 
did  love  to 
t  from  the 
twithBttnd- 


wUcbiMn 


i? 

iring  the  sum- 

le  Islands  and 
rreat  resort  for 
id  to  tbe  bold 
olnt  along  tbe 
he  fisWng  sea- 
round,  and  the 

f  the  Labrador 
i,  noted  for  its 
Lewis  Sound  m 
n,  dashing  high 
etery  were  con- 
of  Wordsworth 
dmaux  convert 

^^oss   St.  Lewis 
,„d  other      --^ous 
proiect.    .  into 
,d  the  houses  are 

r!«Mrn  exttenaty. 


bombarded  by  the  oeeui,  and  flayed  by  the  sword  of  the  blast  for  mooths  In  tha 
year,  is  a  little  paradise  of  beauty.    There  are  fields  of  mossy  carpet  that  sinks  b^ 

neath  the  foot,  with  ImhIs  of  such  delicate  flowera  as  one  seldom  pees I  haw 

neyer  seen  such  fairy  lovelinesa  as  I  find  here  upon  this  bleak  islet,  where  nature 
sceuiS  to  have  been  playiug  at  Switzerland.  On>eD  and  yellow  mu88e8,  ankle-deep 
and  spotted  with  blood-red  stains,  carpet  the  crags  and  little  vales  and  cradle-lilce 
hollows.  Wonderful  to  behold !  flowers  pink  and  white,  yellow,  red,  and  blue,  are 
countless  as  dew-drops,  and  breathe  out  upon  tbe  pure  air  their  odor,  so  spirit-like. 
....  Little  gorges  and  chasms,  overhung  with  miniature  precipices,  wind  gracefully 
from  the  summits  down  to  meet  the  waves,  and  are  filled,  where  the  sun  can  warm 
them,  with  all  bloom  and  sweetness,  a  kind  of  wild  greenhouse." 

The  course  is  laid  from  Battle  Harbor  N.  across  St.  Lewis  Sound,  which 
is  4  M.  wide  and  10  M.  deep  (to  Fly  Island,  beyond  which  is  the  St.  Lewis 
Rivei-,  which  contains  myriads  of  salmon).  Passing  the  dark  and  rugged 
hills  (500  ft.  higli)  of  Cape  St.  Lewis,  the  steamer  soon  reaches  the  small 
but  secure  haven  of  Spear  Harbor ,  where  a  short  stop  is  made.  The  next 
port  is  at  St.  Francis  Harbor,  which  is  on  Granby  Island,  in  the  estuary 
of  the  deep  and  navigable  Alexis  River,  An  Episcopal  church  is  located 
here.  In  this  vicinity  are  several  precipitous  insulated  rocks,  rising  from 
the  deep  sea.  The  harbor  is  ^  M.  W.  of  Cape  St.  Francis,  and  is  deep  and 
well  protected,  being  also  a  favorite  resort  for  the  fishing  fleets. 

Cape  St.  Michael  \a  next  seen  on  the  W,,  11  M.  above  Cape  St.  Francis, 
with  its  mountainous  promontory  sheltering  an  island-studded  bay.  Be- 
yond the  dark  and  rugged  Square  Island  is  the  mail-port  of  Dead  Island. 
Crossing  now  the  mouth  of  St.  Michael's  Bay,  and  passing  Cape  Bluff 
(which  may  be  seen  for  60  M.  at  sea),  the  steamer  next  stops  between 
Venison  Island  and  the  gloomy  cliffs  beyond.  Running  next  to  the  N., 
on  the  outside  of  a  gi-eat  archipelago,  the  highlands  of  Partridge  Bay  are 
slowly  passed. 

The  Seal  Islands  are  24  M.  N.  E.  of  Cape  St.  Michael,  and  18  M.  beyond 
is  Spotted  Island,  distinguished  by  several  white  spots  on  its  lofty  dark 
cliflfs.  To  the  E.  is  the  great  Island  of  Ponds,  near  which  is  Batteau  Har- 
bor, a  mail-port  at  which  a  call  is  made.  The  next  station  is  at  Indian 
Tickle,  which  is  a  narrow  roadstead  between  Indian  Island  and  the  high- 
lands of  Mulgrave  Land.  Stopping  next  at  S.  E.  Cove,  the  course  is  laid 
from  thence  to  Indian  Harbor,  on  the  W.  side  of  Huntington  Island.  Thi« 
island  is  7  M.  long,  and  shelters  the  entrance  to  Sandwich  Bay  (the  Esqui- 
maux Net^uctoke),  which  is  6-9  M.  wide  and  64  M.  deep,  with  13-40 
fathoms  of  water.  There  are  many  picturesque  islands  in  this  bay,  and  on 
the  N.  shore  are  the  Mealy  Mts.,  reaching  an  altitude  of  1,482  ft.  On  the 
W.  side  are  Eagle  and  West  Rivers,  filled  with  salmon ;  and  East  River 
runs  into  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  coming  from  a  large  lake  where  immense 
numbers  of  salmon,  trout,  and  pike  may  be  found.  4  M.  from  the  mouth 
of  East  River  is  the  small  settlement  of  Paradise. 

At  the  head  of  this  great  bay  are  The  Narrows,  with  Monnt  Nat  and  its  bold 
foothills  on  the  S.  "  On  either  side  hills  towered  to  the  height  of  a  thousand  feet, 
wooded  with  spruce  froi    '  ase  to  summit,  and  these  twin  escarpments  abutted  ranges 

10*  O 


226      Route  6t.         MORAVIAN  MISSIONS. 


of  bold  blaA  whose  abadowi  leemed  almost  to  meet  midway  In  the  aarrow  ehanne* 
that  separated  them.  Through  this  grand  gloomy  portal  there  was  an  unbroken 
Tista  for  miles,  until  the  channel  made  an  abrupt  turn  that  hid  the  water  firoia 
Tiew ;  but  the  great  gorge  continued  on  beyond  till  it  was  *(<<t  In  blue  shadow.'* 
On  the  N.  shore  of  the  Narrows  Is  the  Hudson's  Bay  Gompan.y 'h  p:>»cof  Klgolette, 
occupying  the  site  of  an  older  French  trading-station.  At  tim  iiead  of  the  Narrows 
is  Melville  Lake,  a  great  Inland  seft,  all  along  whose  S.  shore  are  the  weird  and  won< 
derful  volcanic  peaks  of  the  lofty  Mealy  Mountains.  120  M.  S.  W.  of  Rigolette,  by 
this  route,  is  the  H.  B.  Company's  post  of  Norwest,  situated  a  little  way  up  the 
N.  W.  Kiver,  near  great  spruce  forests.  This  in  the  cuief  trading-post  of  the  Moun- 
taineers, a  tribe  of  the  great  Cree  nation  of  the  West,  and  a  tall,  graceful,  and  spir- 
ited people.  In  1840  they  first  opeued  communication  with  the  whites.  It  was  this 
tribe,  which,  Issuing  from  the  interior  highlands  in  resistless  forays,  nearly  exter- 
minated the  Esquimaux  of  the  coast.  300  M.  from  Fort  Norwest  Is  Fort  Nascopie, 
situated  on  the  Heights  of  Land,  far  in  the  dark  and  solitary  in  lerior.  In  that  vicin- 
ity are  the  Grand  FallS;  which  the  voija^eurs  claim  are  1,000  ft.  high,  but  Factor 
McLean  says  are  400  ft.  high,  —  and  below  them  the  broad  river  flashes  down  through 
a  canon  900  ft.  deep,  for  over  30  M.  300  M.  from  Fort  Nascopie  are  the  shores  of 
Ungava  Bay.  (The  R<3quimaux-Bay  district  is  well  de8cril>ed  iu  an  article  by  Cliarlea 
Hallock,  Harper's  Magazine,  Vol.  XXII.) 


The  Moravians  state  that  the  Esquimaux  are  a  proud  and  enterprising  people,  low 
In  stature,  with  c^rse  features,  small  hands  and  feet,  and  black  wi^y  hair.  The 
men  are  expert  in  fishing,  catching  seals,  and  managing  the  light  and  graceful  boat 
called  the  kayak,  which  outrides  the  rudest  surges  of  the  sea ;  while  the  women  are 
skilful  in  making  garments  from  skins.  Agriculture  is  impossible,  because  the 
country  is  covered  with  snow  and  ice  for  a  great  part  of  the  year.  They  call  them- 
selves Innuits  ("  men  "),  the  term  Esquimaux  (meaning  ''  eaters  of  raw  flesh  ") 
being  applie<I  to  them  by  the  hostile  tribes  to  the  \V.  On  the  500  M.  of  the  Atlantic 
cu&Htof  Lftbiador  there  are  about  1,000  of  these  people,  most  of  whom  have  been 
coavitrttKl  by  :ae  Bioravians.  They  live  about  the  missions  in  winter,  and  assemble 
fiK>m  tbe  remoter  t  points  to  celebrate  the  mysteries  of  the  Passion  Week  In  the 
churches,  ^hey  were  heathens  and  demon-worshippers  until  1770,  when  the  Mora- 
vian Brethren  Of;cupied  the  coast  under  permission  of  the  British  Crown.  They  were 
formerly  much  more  numerous,  but  have  been  reduced  by  long  wars  with  tho 
Mountaineers  of  the  interior  and  by  the  ravages  of  the  small-pox.    The  practicn  of 

Etlygamy  has  ceased  among  the  tribes,  and  their  marriages  are  celebrated  by  the 
oravian  ritual.  The  missionaries  do  considerable  trading  with  the  Indians,  and 
keep  magazines  of  provisions  at  their  villages,  from  which  the  natives  are  freely  fed 
during  seasons  of  famine.  At  each  station  are  a  church,  a  store,  a  mission-house, 
and  shops  and  warm  huts  for  the  converted  and  civilized  Esquimaux,  who  are  fiist 
learning  the  mechanic  arts.  The  Moravian  mission-ship  makes  a  yearly  visit  to  the 
Labrador  station,  replenishing  the  supplies  and  carrying  away  cargoes  of  furs. 

Mopedale  is  300  M.  N.  W.  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  is  one  of  the 
chief  Moravian  missions  on  the  Labrador  coast.  It  was  founded  In  1782  by  the  en- 
voys of  the  church,  and  has  grown  to  be  a  centre  of  civilizing  influences  on  this 
dreary  coast.  Its  last  statistics  claim  for  it  85  houses,  with  46  families  and  248  per- 
sons ;  49  boats  and  49  kayaks ;  and  a  church  containing  74  communicants  and  85 
baptized  children.  The  mean  annual  temperature  here  Is  27°  82'.  The  church  is  a 
neat  plain  building,  where  the  men  and  women  occupy  opposite  sides,  and  Qerman 
hymns  are  sung  to  the  accompaniment  of  the  violin. 

Main  is  about  80  M.  N.  W.  of  Hopedale,  and  has  about  300  inhabitants,  of  whom 
85  are  communicants  and  94  are  baptized  children.  It  was  founded  by  three  Mora- 
vians iu  1771,  and  occupies  a  beautiful  position,  facing  the  ocean  tVom  the  bottom 
of  a  narrow  haven.  It  is  in  57°  N.  latitude  (same  latitude  as  the  Hebrides),  and  the 
thermometer  sometimes  marks  75°  in  summer,  while  spirits  freeze  in  the  intense  cold 
Of  winter.  Okkak  is  about  120  M.  N.  W.  of  Nain,  towards  Hudson  Strait,  and  is  a 
very  successful  mission  which  dates  from  1776.  The  station  of  Htbron  is  still  farther 
up  the  coast,  and  has  about  300  inhabitants. 

Far  away  to  the  N.  E.,  across  the  broad  openings  of  Davis  Strait,  is 
Cape  Oeiolatioxii  in  Greenland,  ^      *  the  settlements  of  Julianshaab. 


CHATEAU  BAf. 


RauU  63.      227 


ow  channe' 
B  unbroXea 

ie  shadow. 
tht'Narrows 

Ird  and  ^oj*" 
jUgoletto.by 

le  v»ay  «P  *'^** 
of  the  Moun- 

J     It  was  tnis 
, 'nearly  exte.r- 

in  thatticiQ- 
igh.butVactor 
Wa  through 

e  the  shores  of 
rticle  by  Charles 

wiry  hair.  Jhe 
nd^lracefulboat 

■rthVwomen  are 

ihle    because  the 

^^i^^'eycaUty 

M  of  ravT  flesa    ; 
^.  of  Uie  Atlantic 

;^hom  have  been 
»ter  and  assemble 
iier,  ""     Y^  in  the 

rShJu^^eMor,^ 

^'^°''«..  Jiuh  the 
^'^^The^rStic.  of 
;celbratedbythe 

,s:rSy^^d 

.rV^^onfof  the 
5  influences  on  this 

r'^jSe^Jhu^'hisa 
^8idis%ndGennan 

tnded  by  three  w 
san  fro«?,*S'  and  the 

&&'aSi"urtther 

of  Davb  Strait,  U 
3f  Jiilians/iaoft. 


63.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Strait  of  Belle  Ida 

At  Battle  Harbor  the  Northern  Coastal  steajner  connects  with  the 
Labrador  mail-boat,  which  proceeds  S.  W.  across  the  mouth  of  St.  Charles 
Channel,  and  touches  at  Cape  Charles,  or  St.  Charles  Harbor^  entering  be- 
tween Fishflake  and  Blackbill  Islands.  This  harbor  is  deep  and  secure 
(though  small),  and  is  a  favorite  resort  for  the  fishermen.  As  the  steamer 
passes  the  Cape,  the  round  hill  of  St.  Charles  may  be  seen  about  1  M. 
inland,  and  is  noticeable  as  the  1    tiest  highland  in  this  district.    Niger 


Sound  and  the  Camp  Islands 
landing  is  made  at  Chimney  'j 
Torrent  Point,  beyond  which 
turesque  headland,  well  isohi; 
sides.    It  is  200  fl.  high,  and  is 


300  ft.  high)  are  next  passed,  and  a 
' '  M.  S.  W.  of  the  Camp  Islands  is 
passes  Table  Head,  a  very  pic- 
ith  a  level  top  and  precipitous 
lilefly  composed  of  symmetrical  columns 
of  basalt.  To  the  S.  are  the  barren  rocks  of  tlie  Peterel  Isles  and  St. 
Peter's  Isles,  giving  shelter  to  St.  Peter's  Bay.  In  the  S.  E.  may  be  seen 
the  dim  lines  of  the  distant  coast  of  Belle  Isle.  On  the  N.  is  the  bold 
promontory  of  Sandwich  Head.  The  deep  and  narrow  Chateau  Bay  now 
opens  to  the  N.  W.,  guarded  by  the  cliffs  of  York  Point  (1.)  and  Chateau 
Point  (on  Castle  Island,  to  the  r.),  and  the  steamer  ascends  its  tranquil 
sheet.  Within  is  the  noble  fiord  of  Temple  Bay,  5  M.  long,  and  lined  by 
lofty  highlands,  approached  through  the  Temple  Pass.  On  the  r.  is  the 
ridge  of  the  High  Beacon  (959  ft.).  Chateau  is  a  small  permanent  village, 
with  a  church  and  a  large  area  offish-stages.  In  the  autumn  and  winter 
its  inhabitants  retire  into  the  back  country,  for  the  sake  of  the  fuel  which 
is  afforded  by  the  distant  forests.  The  port  and  harbor  are  named  for  the 
remarkable  rocks  at  the  entrance.  There  are  fine  trouting-streams  up 
Temple  Bay;  and  vast  numbers  of  curlews  visit  the  islands  in  August. 

"  This  castle  is  a  most  remarkable  pile  of  basaltic  rock,  rising  in  vertical  colnmna 
from  an  insulated  bed  of  granite.  Its  height  from  the  level  of  the  ocean  is  upward 
of '200  ft.  It  is  compocsed  of  regular  five-sided  prisms,  and  on  all  sides  the  ground  is 
strewn  with  single  blocks  and  clusters  that  have  become  detached  and  fallen  from 

their  places [It]  seemed  like  some  grim  fortress  of  the  feudal  ages,  from  whose 

embrasures  big-mouthed  cannon  were  ready  to  belch  forth  flame  and  smoke.  On  the 
very  verge  of  the  parapet  a  cross  stood  out  in  bold  relief  in  the  gleaming  moonlight, 
like  a  sentinel  upon  his  watch-tower."    (Hallock,  describing  Castle  Island.) 

Chateau  was  formerly  considered  the  key  of  the  northern  fisheries,  and  its  pos- 
session was  hotly  contested  by  the  Euglitih  and  Fntnch.  At  the  time  of  the  de- 
population of  Acadia  a  number  of  its  people  fled  hither  and  established  a  strong 
fortress.  This  work  still  remains,  and  consists  of  a  bastioned  star-fort  in  masonry, 
with  gun-platforms,  magazines,  and  block-houses,  surrounded  by  a  deep  fosse,  be- 
yond which  were  earthworks  and  lines  of  stockades.  It  was  abandoned  in  1753, 
and  is  now  overgrown  with  thickets.  In  1768  a  British  garrison  was  located  at 
Chateau,  in  order  to  protect  the  fisheries,  but  the  place  was  captured  in  1778  by  the 
American  privateer  Minen-n^  and  3  vessels  and  £  70,000  worth  of  property  were 
carried  away  as  prizes.  In  1<96  the  post  was  again  attacked  by  a  French  fleet.  A 
long  bombardment  ensued  between  the  frigates  and  the  shore-batteries,  and  it  was 
not  until  their  ammunition  vras  exhausted  that  the  British  troops  retreated  into  the 
back  country,  after  having  burnt  the  village.  In  1536  the  French  exploring  fleet 
under  the  command  of  Jaques  Cartier  assembled  here. 


^, 


^■Vs^< 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


I 


1.25 


12.8 


1^ 


12.2 

•»  .■>.    Mil 


EM 


2.0 


I 


U   ill  1.6 


<^ 


Yi 


/. 


^ 


^.'*- 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


^' 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WHSTH.N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  872-4503 


I^> 


228     RouUeS.      STRAIT  OF  BELL2  ISLE. 


After  emerging  from  Chateau  Bay,  the  course  is  laid  around  York 
Point,  and  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle  is  entered  (with  Belle  Isle  itself  18 
M.  £.).  The  Labrador  coast  is  now  followed  for  about  26  M.,  with  the 
stern  front  of  its  frowning  cliffs  slightly  indented  by  the  insecure  havens 
of  Wreck,  Barge,  and  Greenish  Bays.  Saddle  Island  is  now  seen,  w'th 
its  two  rounded  hills,  and  the  steamer  glides  into  Red  Bay,  an  excellent 
refuge  in  whose  inner  harbor  vessels  sometimes  winter.  Large  forests  are 
seen  at  the  head  of  the  water,  and  scattering  lines  of  huts  and  stages  show 
evidences  of  the  occupation  of  the  hardy  northern  fishermen.  Starting 
once  more  on  the  voyage  to  the  S.  W.,  at  7  M.  from  Red  Bay  are  seen  the 
Little  St.  Modesto  Islands,  sheltering  Black  Bay,  beyond  which  Gape 
Diable  is  passed,  and  Diable  Bay  (4  M.  W.  S.  W.  of  Black  Bay).  8  M. 
farther  to  the  W.  the  steamer  enters  Loup  Bay,  rounding  high  red  cliffs, 
and  touches  at  the  fishing-establishment  and  hamlet  of  Lance-au-Loup 
(which  views  the  Newfoundland  coast  from  Point  FeroUe  to  Gape  Nor- 
man). Field-ice  is  sometimes  seen  off  this  shore  in  the  month  of  June. 
Capt.  Bayfield  saw  200  icebergs  in  the  strait  in  August. 

The  course  is  now  laid  to  the  S.  W.  for  3-4  M.,  to  round  Point  Amours 
which  is  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  and  has  a  fixed  light,  156  ft. 
high,  and  visible  for  18  M.  From  the  Red  Gliffs,  on  the  £.  of  Loup  Bay, 
it  is  but  11  M.  S.  S.  £.  to  the  coast  of  Newfoundland. 

"  The  Battery,  as  sailors  call  it,  is  a  wall  of  red  sandstone,  2>8  M.  in  extent,  witli 
horiiontal  lines  extending  from  one  extreme  to  the  other,  and  perpendicular  fissures 
resembling  embrasures  and  gateways.  Swelling  out  witb  grand  proportions  toward 
the  sea,  it  has  a  most  military  and  picturesque  appearance.  At  one  point  of  this 
huge  citadel  of  solitude  there  is  the  resemblance  of  a  giant  portal,  with  stupendous 
piers  200  ft.  or  more  in  elevation.  They  are  much  broken  by  the  yearly  assaults  of 
the  frost,  and  the  eye  darts  up  the  ruddy  ruina  in  surprise.  If  there  was  anything 
to  defend,  here  is  a  Gibraltar  at  hand,  with  comparatively  small  labor,  whose  guns 
could  nearly  cross  the  strait.  Beneath  its  precipitous  cliflii  the  debris  elopes  like 
a  glkcts  to  the  beach,  with  both  smooth  and  broken  surfaces,  and  all  very  hand- 
somely decorated  with  rank  herbage The  red  sandstone  shore  is  exceedingly 

picturesque.  It  has  a  right  royal  presence  along  the  deep.  Lofty  semicircular 
promohtories  descend  in  regular  terraces  nearly  down,  then  sweep  out  gracefully 
with  an  ample  lap  to  the  margin.  No  art  could  produce  better  effect.  The  long 
terraced  galleric  >  are  touched  with  a  tender  green,  and  the  well-hollowed  vales,  now 
and  then  occurring,  and  ascending  to  the  distant  horizon  between  ranks  of  rounded 

hilU,  look  green  and  pasture-like Among  the  very  pretty  and  refireshing  fea- 

turiss  of  the  coast  are  its  brooks,  seen  occasionally  falling  over  the  rocks  in  white 
cascades.  Harbors  are  passed  now  and  then,  with  small  fishing-fleets  and  dwell- 
ings." (NOBLI.) 

The  steamer  enters  Forteau  Bay,  and  runs  across  to  the  W.  shore,  where 
are  the  white  houses  of  a  prosperous  fishing-establishment,  with  an  Epis- 
copal church  and  rectory.  About  the  village  are  seen  large  Esquimaux 
dogs,  homely,  powerful,  and  intelligent.  This  bay  is  the  best  in  the  strait, 
and  is  much  frequented  by  the  French  fishermen,  for  whose  convenience 
one  of  the  Jersey  companies  has  established  a  station  here.  On  the  same 
lide  of  the  harbor  a  fine  cascade  (100  ft.  high)  is  seen  pouring  over  the 
gliffs,  and  the  fresh-water  stream  which  empties  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
oontaini  large  numbers  of  sahnon. 


BLANC  SA6L0N. 


RouU  64.      229 


ad  York 

Itself  18 
with  the 
re  havens 
jeen,  w  th 

excellent 
forests  »re 
aiges  show 
,    Starting 
re  seen  the 
rhich  Cape 
iay).    8M. 
1  red  cliffs, 

)  Cape  Nor- 
nth  of  June. 

Ant  AmoBTf 

light,  155  ft. 
>f  Loup  Bay, 

in  extent,  ^^ 
idicularflwuret 
portions  toward 
^e  point  of  this 
Vith  Btupendou* 
^rly  assaults  oi 
re  was  anything 
ibor,  whose  gun* 
Ubrls  slopes  UM 
daU^eryhwd- 
re  is  exceedingly 
',fty  semicircu  ar 
,  Jut  gracefully 
BJfect.    The  long 
Uowed  vales,  now 
ranks  of  rounded 
Id  refreshing  fc«; 
he  rocks  la  white 
.fleet*  and  dwell- 


7  M.  beyond  Fortean,  Wood  Island  is  passed,  and  the  harbor  of  Alone 
Babkn  is  entered.  To  the  W.  are  Bradore  Bay  and  Bonne  Esperance  Bay, 
with  their  trading-stations;  and  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  W.  are  the  Bradcne 
Hills,  several  rounded  summits,  of  which  the  chief  is  1,264  ft.  high. 

Blano  Sablon  is  on  the  border-line  between  the  sections  of  Labrador 
which  belong,  the  one  to  the  Province  of  Quebec,  the  other  to  Newfound- 
land. It  is  named  from  the  white  sauds  which  are  brought  down  the 
river  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Several  of  the  great  fishmg-coropanies  of 
the  Isle  of  Jersey  have  stations  here,  and  the  harbor  is  much  visited  in 
summer.  Blanc  Sablon  is  at  the  W.  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle, 
and  it  is  but  21  M.  from  the  Isle-it-Bois  (at  the  mouth  of  the  bay)  to  the 
Newfoundland  shore.  The  village  is  surrounded  by  a  line  of  remarkable 
terraced  hills.  On  Greenly  Island,  just  outside  of  the  harbor,  82  sail  of 
fishing-vessels  were  lost  on  the  night  of  July  2,  1856. 

Following  the  trend  of  the  N.  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  Blanc 
Sablon  is  distant  from  Esquimaux  Bay  20  M.,  from  Quebec  nearly  800  M., 
and  (in  a  straight  line)  218  M.  from  Anticosti  (see  Route  65). 

From  Blanc  Sablon  the  steamer  retraces  her  course  through  the  Strait 
of  Belle  Isle  to  Battle  Harbor. 

64.  The  Labrador  Coast  of  the  Gulf  of  St  lawrenee.— The 

Mingan  Islands. 

The  ports  along  this  coast  may  be  reached  by  the  American  fishing-echoonen, 
fh)m  Gloucester,  although  there  can  be  no  certainty  when  or  where  they  will  touch. 
Boats  may  be  hired  at  Blanc  Sablon  to  convey  passengers  to  the  W. 

Quebec  to  the  Moiaic  River. 

The  steamer  Margaretta  Stevenson  leaves  Quebec  for  the  Moisic  River  every  week, 
and  may  be  hired  to  cail  at  intermediate  ports.  The  passage  occupies  80-40  hourn, 
and  the  cabin-fare  is  920  (including  meals).  The  round  trip  to  Moisic  and  back 
takes  nearly  a  week. 

The  N.  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  is  a  region  which  is  unique  in  Its  dreart- 
ness  and  desolation.  The  scenery  is  wild  and  gloomy,  and  the  shore  is  faced  with 
barren  and  storm-beaten  hills.  The  climate  is  rigorous  in  the  extreme.  This  dis* 
trict  is  divided  into  three  parts,  —  the  King's  Posts,  with  270  M.  of  coast,  firom  Port 
Neuf  to  Cape  Cormoront ;  the  Seigniory  of  Mingan,  from  Cape  Cormorant  to  the 
River  Agwanus  (186  M.) ;  and  the  Labrador,  extending  fh>m  the  Agwanus  to  Blanc 
Sablon  (156  M.).  Along  this  661  M.  of  coast  there  are  (census  of  1861)  but  6,418  in- 
habitants, of  whom  2,6£2  are  French  Canadians  and  888  are  Indians.  1,764  are  fish- 
ermen, and  1,088  hunters.  In  the  660  M.  there  are  but  880  houses,  67K  arpents  of 
cultivated  land,  and  12  horses.  There  are  8,841  Catholics,  670  Protestants,  and  2 
Jews. 

The  wide  Bradore  Bay  is  near  Blanc  Sablon,  to  the  W.,  and  has  been 
called  '*  the  most  picturesque  spot  on  the  Labrador."  In  the  back  conn- 
try  are  seen  the  sharp  peaks  of  the  Bradore  Hills,  rising  from  the  wilder- 
ness (1,264  ft.  high).  The  bay  was  formerly  celebrated  for  its  numerous 
humpbacked  whales.  The  village  is  on  Point  Jones,  on  the  E.  side  of 
the  bay. 


230     HouU  64. 


ESQUIMAUX  BAT. 


Bradore  Bay  Is  of  neat  extent,  and  is  stndded  with  oltutert  of  idets,  which 
make  broad  dlTisions  of  we  roadst^wl.  It  was  known  in  ancient  times  as  La  Bate 
ties  hettes,  and  was  granted  b;  France  to  the  Sieur  Le  Qardeur  de  Courtemanehe 
(who,  according  to  tradition,  married  a  Princess  of  France,  the  daughter  of  Henri 
lY  .)•  That  nobleman  sent  out  agents  and  officers,  named  the  new  port  Philypeaux^ 
and  built  at  its  entrance  a  bulwark  called  Fort  Pontchartrain.  From  him  it  de- 
sc(?nded  to  Sieur  Foucher,  who  added  the  title  *'  de  Labrador  "  to  his  name ;  and  there 
Btill  exists  a  semi-noble  family  in  France,  bearing  the  name  of  Foucher  de  Labrador. 

On  this  bay  was  the  town  of  Brest)  which,  it  is  claimed,  was  founded  by  men 
of  Brittany,  in  the  year  1508.  If  this  statement  is  correct,  Brest  was  the  fint  Euro- 
pe, in  settlement  in  America,  antedating  by  over  thirty  years  the  foundation  of  St. 
Augustine,  in  Florida.  In  1585  Jaques  Cartier  met  French  vessels  searching  for  this 
port.  About  the  year  1600  Brest  was  at  the  height  of  its  prosperity,  and  had  1,000 
permanent  inhabitants,  200  houees,  a  goyernor  and  an  almoner,  and  strong  fortifica- 
tions. After  the  subjugation  of  the  Esquimaux  by  the  Montaignids,  it  was  no  longer 
dangerous  to  establish  small  fishing-stations  along  the  coast,  and  Brest  began  to 
decline  rapidly.    Ruins  of  its  ancient  works  may  still  be  found  here. 

The  Bay  of  Bonne-Esperance  is  one  of  the  most  capacious  on  this  coast, 
and  is  sheltered  from  the  sea  by  a  double  line  of  islets.  The  port  is  called 
Bonny  ty  the  American  fishermen,  who  resort  here  in  great  numbers 
duriiig  the  herring-season.  The  islands  before  the  harbor  were  passed  by 
Jaques  Cartier,  who  said  that  they  were  "  so  numerous  that  it  is  not  pos- 
sible to  count  them."  They  were  formerly  (and  are  sometimes  now)  called 
Les  Isles  de  la  Demoiselle ;  and  Th^vet  locates  here  the  tragedy  of  Bober- 
val's  niece  Marguerite  (see  page  221). 

Esquimaux  Bay  is  N.  of  Bonne-Esperance,  and  is  8  M.  in  circumference. 
2  M.  above  Esquimaux  Island  is  a  small  trading-post,  above  which  is  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  abounding  in  salmon.  There  is  a  great  archipelago 
between  the  bay  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  On  one  of  these  islands 
an  ancient  fort  was  discovered  in  the  year  1840.  It  was  built  of  stone  and 
turf,  <ind  was  surrounded  by  great  piles  of  human  bones.  It  is  supposed  that 
the  last  great  battle  b(«t«;ccn  ihe  French  and  Montaignais  and  the  Esquimaux 
took  place  here,  and  that  the  latter  were  exterminated  in  their  own  fort. 

18  M.  W.  of  Whale  Island  are  Mistanoque  Island  and  Shecatica  Bay,  beyond  Lob- 
ster and  Rocky  Harbors.  Port  St.  Augustine  ia  15  M.  W.  of  Mistanoque,  beyond 
Shag  Island  and  the  castellated  highlands  of  Cumberland  Harbor.  A  line  of  high 
islands  extends  hence  21  M.  W.  by  s.  toGreat  Meccatina  Island,  a  granite  rock  2x8 
M.  in  area,  and  500  ft.  high.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  remarkable  for  its  gran- 
deur and  singular  features.  58  M.  from  Qieat  Meccatina  Island  is  Cape  Whittle ;  and 
in  the  intervening  course  the  Watagbeistic  Sound  and  Wapitagun  Harbor  are  passed. 
A  flringe  of  islands  extendi*  for  6-8  M.  off  this  coast,  of  which  the  outermost  are 
barren  rocks,  and  the  large  inner  ones  are  covered  with  moss-grown  hills. 


**  Now,  brother*,  for  the  Icebergs 

Of  fruzen  Labrador, 
Floating  spectral  in  the  moonshine 

Along  I  he  low  black  shore  i 
Where  like  niiow  ihe  gannet  s  feathers 

On  Bradors  rocks  ere  shed. 
And  the  noisy  murr  are  flying, 

Like  black  scuds,  overhead  i 

'*  Where  In  mist  the  rock  is  hiding. 

And  the  sharp  reef  lurks  below, 
And  the  white  squall  lurks  in  summer. 

And  the  autumn  tempests  blow  j 
Where,  through  gray  and  rolling  vapor, 

From  evening  unto  morn, 
A  thousand  boats  are  hailing, 

Horn  answering  unto  horn. 


M 


'*  Hurrah !  for  the  Red  Island, 

With  the  white  cross  on  its  crown  I 
Hurrah  1  fur  Meccatina, 

And  its  mountains  hare  and  brown  I 
Where  the  Caribou's  tall  antlers 

O  er  the  dwarf -wood  freely  toss. 
And  the  footstep  of  the  Mickmack 

Has  no  sound  upon  the  moss. 

***** 

"  Hurrah  I  —  hurrah  I  —  the  west-wind 

Comes  freshening  down  the  bay. 
The  rising  sails  ore  filling,  — 

(jive  way,  my  lads,  give  way  I 
Leave  the  coward  landsmen  clinging 

To  the  dull  earth,  like  a  weed,  — 
The  stars  of  heaven  shall  guide  us, 

The  breath  Of  heaven  shall  speed  !  " 

Jouir  O.  WniTTiXKS  Songqf  the  Fiaberinen, 


THE  MINOAN  ISLANDS.        JhuteSl      231 


[deto,  which 
I  as  La  Bate 
>aTtemanehe 
ter  of  Henri 
Philypea^t 
aa  him  It  d»- 
le ;  and  there 
df.  Labrador. 
ided  by  men 
he  first  Buro- 
daUon  of  St. 
rchiug  for  this 
md  had  1,000 
rong  fortittca- 
wa«  no  longer 
;rest  began  to 

)n  this  coast, 
)ort  is  called 
eat  numbers 
re  passed  by 
it  is  not  pos- 
es now)  called 
jdy  of  Rober- 

ircumference. 
5  which  is  the 
kt  archipelago 
•  these  islands 
It  of  stone  and 
\  supposed  that 
the  Esquimaux 
teir  own  fort. 

toy,  beyond  Lob- 
tanoque,  beyond 
A  line  of  high 
ranite  rock  2x3 
cable  for  its  gtwd: 
CapeWkittU ;  im^ 
larborarepaBsed. 
;he  outermost  are 
a  hills. 

land,      

on  lt«  crown  I 

ire  and  brown  I 
U  antlers 
freely  tosa, 
5  Mlckmack 
;he  roosa. 

the  west-wind 
>wn  the  bay, 

Blve  way !    . 
•men  clinging 
Iteaweetl,- 
lall  Rulde  us,    „ 
n  shall  speed  I 
qf  the  Fiahermen> 


Wnm  the  quantity  of  wreck  found  amiDng  these  islands,  no  donbt  many  melMi^ 
eholy  shipwrecks  hare  taken  place,  which  haTe  nerer  been  heard  of;  eren  if  tlM 
unfortunate  crews  landed  on  the  barren  rocks,  they  would  perish  of  cold  and  hunger* 

The  "  eggers  "  carry  on  their  illegal  business  along  theso  shores,  where  milltons 
of  sea-birds  have  their  breeding-places.  They  land  on  the  islands  and  break  all  the 
eggs,  and  when  the  birds  lay  fresh  ones  theygather'them  up,  and  load  their  boats. 
There  are  about  20  Teasels  engaged  in  this  contraband  trade,  carrying  the  eggs  to 
Halifax,  Quebec,  and  Boston.  "  These  men  combine  tneether,  and  form  a  strong  com- 
pany. They  suffer  no  one  to  interfere  with  their  business,  drlTing  away  the  Usher^ 
men  or  any  one  else  that  attempts  to  collect  eggs  near  where  they  liappen  to  be. 
Blight  makes  right  with  them,  if  our  information  be  true.  They  hare  arms,  and 
are  said  by  the  fishermen  not  to  be  scrupulous  in  the  use  of  them.  As  soon  as  tbejr 
hare  filled  one  vessel  with  eggs,  they  send  her  to  market ;  others  follow  in  succes- 
sion, so  that  the  market  is  always  supplied,  but  neyer  overstocked.  One  vessel  of  26 
tons  is  said  to  have  cleared  £  200  by  this  *  egging '  business  in  a  fiivorable  seastm." 
^Nautical  Magazine.) 

To  the  W.  of  Cape  Whittle  are  the  Wolf,  Coacocho,  Olomanosheebo, 
Wash-shecootai,  and  Musquarro  Rivers,  on  the  last  three  of  which  are 
posts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  Next  come  the  Kegashka  Bay  and 
River,  the  cliffs  of  Mont  Joli,  the  cod  banks  off  Natashquan  Point,  and 
several  obscure  rivers. 

The  Mingan  Islands  are  29  in  number,  and  lie  between  the  moun- 
tainous shores  of  lower  Labrador  and  the  island  of  Anticosti.  They 
abound  in  geological  phenomena,  ancient  beaches,  denuded  rocks,  etc., 
and  are  of  very  picturesque  contours.  About  their  shores  of  limestone 
are  thick  forests  of  spruce,  birch,  and  poplar;  seals  and  codfish  abound 
in  the  adjacent  watiers;  and  wild  fowl  are  very  plentiful  in  the  proper  sea- 
son. Large  Island  is  11  M.  in  circumference;  and  Mingan,  Quarry, 
Niapisca,  Esquimaux,  and  Charles  Islands  are  2-8  M.  in  length.  They 
front  the  Labrador  coast  for  a  distance  of  45  M. 

There  are  about  600  inhabitants  near  the  islands,  most  of  whom  are  In- 
dians and  French  Acadians,  for  whose  spiritual  guidance  the  Oblate  Fathers 
have  established  a  mission.  The  chief  village  is  at  Mingan  Harbor^  on 
the  mainland,  back  of  Harbor  Island;  and  here  b  a  post  of  the  Hudson*s 
Bay  Company.  The  harbor  is  commodious  and  easy  of  access,  and  has 
been  visited  by  large  frigates.  The  salmon  and  trout  fisheries  of  tho 
Seignior}'  of  Mingan  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  world.  Long  Point  is 
due  N.  of  the  Perroquets,  6  M.  from  Mingan  Harbor,  and  is  a  modem  fish- 
ing-village fronting  on  a  broad  beach.  The  fish  caught  and  cured  here 
are  sent  to  Spain  and  Brazil,  and  form  an  object  of  lucrative  traffic.  The 
fishermen  are  hardy  and  industrious  men,  generally  quiet,  but  turbulent 
and  desperate  during  their  long  drinking-bouts. 

The  Seigniory  of  the  Mingan  Islands  and  the  adjacent  mainland  was  granted  to 
the  Sieur  Francois  Bissot  in  1661 ,  and  the  feudal  rights  thus  conveyed  and  still  main- 
tained by  the  owners  have  greatly  retarded  the  progress  of  this  district.  The  walrus 
fisheries  wero  formerly  of  great  value  here,  and  their  memory  is  preserved  by  H'a^rMS 
Island,  on  whose  shores  the  great  sea-cows  used  to  land.  "  In  1862  there  was  not  a 
single  establishment  on  the  coast,  between  the  Bay  of  Mingan  and  tho  Seven  IslaS, 
and  not  a  quintal  of  codfish  was  taken,  except  on  the  banks  of  Mingan  and  at  the 
lUver  St.  John,  which  the  American  fishermen  have  fiwquented  for  many  years. 
Now,  there  is  not  a  river,  a  cove,  a  creek,  which  is  not  occupied,  and  every  year  thsxe 


232     RtmU64.       THE  MINGAN  ISLANDS. 

am  taken  80-86,000  quintals  of  eod,  withoat  eoanttne  other  fish."  "  The  once 
desolate  coasts  of  Mlngan  haTe  acquired,  by  immigration,  a  Tigorous,  moral,  and 
trully  Catholic  population.  The  men  are  generally  strong  and  robust,  and  above  aU 
they  are  hardy  seamen." 

On  the  W.  edge  of  the  Mingan  Islands  are  the  PerroquetSj  a  cluster  of 
low  rocks  where  great  numbers  of  puffins  burrow  and  rear  their  young. 
On  these  islets  the  steamships  Clyde  and  North  Briton  were  wrecked  (in 
1857  and  1861). 

A  beach  of  white  sand  extends  W.  from  Long  Point  to  the  St.  John 
Mver^  a  distance  of  18-20  M.  The  river  is  marked  by  the  tall  adjacent 
peak  of  Mount  St.  John  (1,416  ft.  high);  and  furnishes  very  good  fishing 
(see  G.  C.  Scott's  "  Fishing  in  American  Waters  "). 

The  Manitou  River  is  31  M.  W.  of  the  St.  John,  and  at  1|  M.  fVom  its  mouth  it 
makes  a  grand  leap  oyer  a  cliff  113  ft.  high,  forming  the  most  magnificent  cataract 
on  the  N.  shore.  The  coast  Indians  still  repeat  the  legend  of  the  invasion  of  this 
country  by  the  Micmacs  (from  Acadia),  200  years  ago,  and  its  heroic  end-  The  bos* 
tUe  war-party  encamped  at  the  falls,  intending  to  attack  the  Montaignais  at  the 
portages,  for  which  purpose  forces  were  station^  above  and  below.  But  the  local 
tribes  detected  their  presence,  and  cut  off  the  guards  at  the  canoea,  then  surprised 
the  detachment  below  the  falls,  and  finally  attacked  the  main  body  above.  After 
the  unsparing  carnage  of  a  long  night-battle,  the  Micmacs  were  conquered,  all  save 
their  great  wizard-chief,  who  stood  on  the  verg^  of  the  falls,  singing  songs  of  de- 
fiance. A  Montaignais  chief  rushed  forward  to  take  him,  when  the  bold  Micmao 
seized  his  opponent  and  leaped  with  him  into  the  foaming  waters.  They  were  both 
boioe  over  the  precipice,  and  the  falls  have  ever  since  been  known  as  the  Manitousin 
(GoQJurer's)  Falls. 

The  Moisic  Biver  is  about  40  M.  W.  of  the  Manitou  River,  and  empties 
into  a  broad  bay  which  receives  also  the  Trout  River.  At  this  point  are 
the  Moisic  Iron  Works,  near  which  there  are  about  700  inhabitants,  most  of 
whom  are  connected  with  the  mines.  This  company  has  its  chief  office 
in  Montreal,  and  runs  a  weekly  steamer  between  Moisic  and  Quebec  (see 
page  281).  There  is  a  hotel  here,  where  visitors  can  get  plain  fare  at  $5 
a  week  (no  liquors  on  the  premises).  Large  quantities  of  codfish  and  sal- 
mon are  exported  from  Moisic. 

.  The  Seven  Islands  are  a  group  of  barren  "mountain-peaks,  starting 
suddenly  from  the  ocean,"  and  situated  several  leagues  W.  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Moisic  River.  They  were  visited  by  Cartier  (1535).  who  reported 
that. he  saw  sea-horses  here;  and  in  1731  they  were  included  in  the 
Domaine  du  Eoi,  The  trading-post  which  was  established  here  by  tae 
i'rench,  140  years  ago,  subsequently  reverted  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, and  is  visited  by  3-400  Nasquapee  Indians.  Since  the  departure 
of  til?  H.  B.  Company,  the  post  itself  has  lost  its  importance,  but  all  ves- 
sels trading  on  the  N.  shore  are  now  obliged  to  get  their  clearances  here. 
The  Montaignais  Indians  had  a  broad  trail  running  thence  up  a  vast  and 
desolate  valley  to  Lake  St.  John,  300  M.  S.  W.,  and  the  Moisic  River  was 
part  of  the  canoe-route  to  Hudson's  Bay.  The  Montaignais  were  here 
secure  from  the  attacks  of  the  dreaded  Mohawks  on  the  one  side,  and  the 
maritime  Esquimaux  on  *he  other,  and  here  they  received  the  Jesuit  mis- 
sionaries. ' 


t  I  ! 


THE  SEVEN  ISLANDS.        HouU  6i.      233 


>Th«  once 
moral,  and 
a  above  aU 


sluster  of 
eir  young. . 
recked  (in 

le  St.  John 
,1  adjacent 
)od  fishing 

its  mouth  it 
ent  cataract 
ftsion  of  this 
i.    The  hos- 
gnais  at  the 
\\xt  the  local 
len  surprised 
ibove.    Alter 
ered,  all  save 
t  songs  of  de- 
bold  Micmao 
ley  were  both 
ae  Manitousia 

land  empties 
his  point  ave 
ints,  most  of 
chief  office 
Quebec  (see 
in  fare  at  $6 
ifish  and  sal- 

saks,  starting 
3f  the  mouth 
vho  reported 
uded  in  the 
here  by  tae 
g  Bay  Cora- 
he  departure 
but  all  vesr- 
irances  here. 
Lip  a  vast  and 
lie  River  was 
lis  were  here 
side,  and  the 
le  Jesuit  mls- 


Th«  soenery  of  the  Bay  of  Seven  Islands  is  fluhed  for  its  wild  bfouty  and  weird 
desolation.  The  bay  is  7  M.  long,  and  is  sheltered  by  the  islands  and  a  mountainous 
promontory  on  the  W.  The  immediate  shore  is  a  fine  sandy  beach,  back  of  which 
are  broad  lowlands,  and  "  the  two  parallel  ranges  of  mountains,  which  add  so  much 
to  the  beauty  of  the  distant  fcencry  of  this  bay,  look  like  huge  and  impenetrable 
barriers  between  the  coast  and  the  howling  wilderness  beyond  them  "  In  the  spring 
and  autimin  this  bay  is  vifited  by  myriads  of  ducks,  gerse,  brant,  and  other  will 
fowl,  and  the  salmon-fishing  in  the  adjacent  streams  is  of  great  value.  The  Great 
Bou,^e  is  the  loftiest  of  the  Seven  Islands,  reaching  an  altitude  of  700  ft.  aliove  tiie 
sea,  and  commanding  a  broad  and  magnificent  view.  There  are  about  800  inhab- 
itants here,  a  large  proportion  of  whom  are  Indians  who  are  engnged  in  the  fur- 
tiade.  On  Carrousel  Island  is  a  fixed  light,  195  ft.  above  the  sea,  which  is  visible 
for  20  M. 

.  From  Carrousel  Island  to  the  St.  Margaret  River  it  is  8  M. ;  to  tlie 
Cawee  Islands,  24;  to  Sproule  Point,  28;  and  still  farther  W.  are  the 
Pentecost  River  and  English  Point,  off  which  are  the  Egg  Islands,  bear- 
ing a  revolving  white  light,  which  warns  off  mariners  from  one  of  the  most 
dangerous  points  on  the  coast. 

Iq  the  spring  of  1711  the  British  government  sent  against  Quebec  15  men-of-war, 
under  Admii*al  Sir  Hovenden  Walker,  and  40  transports  containing  5,000  voterau 
soldiers.  During  a  terrible  August  storm,  while  they  were  ai^cending  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence,  the  fleet  drove  down  on  the  Egg  Islands.  1'he  frigates  were  saved 
from  the  shoals,  but  8  transports  were  wrecked,  with  l,3b3  men  ou  board,  and 
*"  884  brave  fellows,  who  had  passed  ccathlcss  through  tlie  sanguinary  battles  of 
Blenheim,  fianiillies,  and  Oudenarde,  perL-hed  miserably  on  the  de^'olate  shores 
of  the  St.  Lawrence."  This  terrible  loss  was  the  cause  of  the  total  failure  of  the  ex- 
pedition. The  French  v«;sfel8  which  visited  the  isles  after  Walker's  dii>aster  "  fuuud 
the  wrecks  of  8  large  vessels,  from  which  the  cannon  and  best  articles  had  been  re- 
moved, and  nearly  3,000  persons  drowned,  and  their  bodies  lying  along  the  shore. 
They  recognized  among  them  two  whole  companies  of  the  Queen's  Guards,  di^ 
tinguished  by  their  rid  coats,  and  several  Scottth  tauiilieM,  intended  as  settlers  in 
Canada,"  among  them  Feven  women,  ail  clasping  each  other's  hands.  The  regi- 
ments of  Kaine,  Wiudresse,  Seymour,  and  Glaytou  were  nearly  annihilated  in  this 
wreck.  "  The  French  colony  could  not  but  recognize  a  Providence  which  watched 
singularly  over  its  preservation,  and  which,  not  satisfied  with  rescuing  it  from 
the  greatest  danger  it  had  yet  run,  had  enriched  it  ^Yith  the  spoils  of  an  enemy 
whom  it  had  not  had  the  pains  to  conquer ;  hence  they  rendered  llim  most  heart- 
felt thanks."   (Charlevoix.) 

Beyond  the  hamlet  on  Caribou  Point  and  the  deep  bight  of  Trinit}'  Bay 
is  Point  de  Monts  (or,  as  some  say.  Point  aux  Bemona)^  280  M.  from  Que- 
bec. There  is  a  powerful  fixed  light  on  this  promontory.  8  M.  beyond  is 
Godbout^  with  its  fur-trading  post;  and  9  M.  farther  W.  is  Cape  St.  Nicho- 
las. 18  M.  from  the  cape  is  Manicouagan  Point,  20  M.  W.  of  which  is  the 
great  Indian  trading-post  at  the  Beraimis  River,  where  700  Indians  have 
their  headquarters;  thence  to  Cape  Colombier  it  is  11||  M.;  and  to  the 
church  and  fort  at  Port  Neuf  it  is  12  M.  Point  Mille  Vaches  is  opposite 
Biquette,  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  near  the  Sault  de 
Mouton,  a  fall  of  80  ft.  There  are  several  settlements  of  French  Catholic 
farmers  along  the  shore.  At  Les  Eacoumains  there  are  500  inhabitants 
and  considerable  quantities  of  grain  and  lumber  are  sliipped.  The  coast 
is  of  granite,  steep  and  bold,  and  runs  S.  W.  16  M.  to  Petite  Bergeronne^ 
whence  it  is  6^  M.  to  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  River. 


234     JtouU  65, 


ANTICOSn. 


60.  AntiooftL 

The  island  of  Anticosti  lies  in  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Lawrence  "River,  and 

f^h  118  M.  long  and  81  M.  wide.    In  1871  it  had  about  80  inhabitants,  in 

1  charge  of  the  government  lights  and  stations,  and  also  60  acres  of  cleared 

*Jand  and  3  horses.    Fox  River  is  60  M.  distant;  the  Mingan  Islands,  80  M.; 

and  Quebec,  about  450  M.    The  island  has  Uitely  been  the  scene  of  the 

operations  of  the  Anticosti  Land  Company,  which  designed  to  found  here 

a  new  Prince  Edward  Island,  covering  these  peat-plains  with  prosperous 

farms.    The  enterprise  has  as  yet  met  with  but  a  limited  success. 

Anticosti  has  some  woodlands,  but  is  for  the  most  part  covered  with 


V 


black  peaty  bogs  and  ponds,  with  broad  lagoons  near  the  sea.    The  bogs 


resemble  those  of  Ireland,  and  the  forests  are  composed  of  low  and  stunted 
j  trees.    The  shores  are  lined  with  great  piles  of  driftwood  and  the  frag- 
ments of  wrecks.    There  are  many  bears,  otters,  foxes,  and  martens;  also 
partridges,  geese,  brant,  teal,  and  all  manner  of  aquatic  fowl.  The  months 
of  July  and  August  are  rendered  miserable  by  the  presence  of  immense 
swarms  of  black  flies  and  mosquitoes,  bred  in  the  swamps  and  bogs. 
Large  whales  are  seen  off  these  shores,  and  the  early  codfish  are  also  found 
here.    Fine  limestone  and  marble  occur  in  several  places;  and  marl  and 
peat  are  found  in  vast  quantities.    There  are  lighthouses  at  S.  W.  Point, 
S.  Point  (and  a  fog-whistle),  W.  Point  (and  an  alarm-gim),  and  Heath's 
jf  Point.     The  government  has  established  supply-huts  along  the  shores 
I  since  the  terrible  wreck  of  the  Gramcus^  on  the  S.  E.  point,  when  the  crew 
'  reached  the  shore,  but  could  find  nothing  to  eat,  and  were  obliged  to  devour 
;  each  other.    None  were  saved. 

In  1690  one  of  Sir  William  Phipps's  troop-ships  was  wrecked  on  Anticosti,  dnrlng 

.|^  the  retreat  from  Quebec,  and  but  5  of  its  people  survived  the  winter  on  the  i!<land. 

:  When  the  ice  broke  up,  these  brave  fellows  started  in  a  row>boat  for  Boston,  900  M. 
disttint ;  and  after  a  passage  of  44  days  they  reached  their  old  home  in  safety.  The 
island  was  granted  in  1691  to  the  Sieur  Joliet,  who  erected  a  fort  here,  but  was  soon 

i  plundered  and  ejected  by  the  English.    In  1814  H.  B.  M.  frigate  Leopard,  60,  the 
same  vessel  which  captured  the  U.  S.  frigate  Chesapeake  was  lost  here- 
"  The  dangerous,  desolate  shores  of  Anticosti,  rich  in  wrecks,  accursed  in  human 

I  suffering.  This  hideous  wilderness  has  been  the  grave  of  hundreds ;  by  the  slowest 
andghastliestof  deaths  they  died,  —  starvation.     Washed  ashore  from  maimed  and 

.  sinking  ships,  saved  to  destruction,  they  drag  their  chilled  and  battered  limbs  up  the 
rough  rocks ;  for  a  moment,  warm  with  hope,  they  look  around  with  eager,  strain- 
ing oye&  for  shelter, — and  there  is  none ;  the  failing  sight  darkens  on  hill  and  forest, 
forest  and  bill,  and  black  despair.  Hours  and  days  waste  out  the  lamp  of  life,  until 
at  length  the  withered  skeletons  have  only  strength  to  die."    (ISuoi  Wabbobion.) 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


Quebec  is  bounded  on  the  W.  bv  the  Province  of  Ontario,  on  the  N.  by 
the  wilderness  towards  Hudson's  Bay,  on  the  E.  by  Maine,  Labrador,  and 
the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  on  the  S.  by  New  Brunswick,  New  Eng- 
land, and  New  York.  It  covers  188,688  square  miles,  and  its  scenery  is 
highly  diversifled  and  often  mountainous,  contrasting  strongly  with  the 
immense  prairies  of  Ontario.  The  stately  river  St.  Lawrence  traverses  the 
Province  from  S.  W.  to  N.  E.,  and  receives  as  tributaries  the  large  rivers 
Ottawa,  Richelieu,  St.  Maurice,  and  Saguenay.  The  Eastern  Townships 
are  famed  for  their  fine  highland  scenery,  amid  which  are  beautiful  lakes 
and  glens. 

The  Province  of  Quebec  ban  1,359,027  inhabitants  (census  of  1881),  the 
vast  majority  of  whom  are  of  French  descent  and  language.  1,170,718  of 
the  people  are  Roman  Catholics,  and  the  laws  of  education  are  modified  to 
suit  the  system  of  parish-schools.  There  are  68,797  Church-of-England 
people,  50,287  Presbyterians,  and  39,221  Methodists;  1,073,820  are  of 
French  origin,  123,749  Irish,  81,515  English,  and  54,923  Scottish. 

The  Dominion  of  Canada  is  ruled  by  a  Governor-General  (appointed  by 
the  British  sovereign)  and  Privy  Council,  and  a  Parliament  consisting  of 
81)  senators  (24  each  from  Ontario  and  Quebec,  12  each  from  Nova  Scotia  and 
New  Brunswick,  and  9  from  P.  E.  Island,  Manitoba,  and  British  Columbia) 
and  208  members  of  the  House  of  Commons.  There  is  one  member  for  each 
17,000  souls,  or  89  for  Ontario,  65  for  Quebec,  21  for  Nova  Scotia,  16  for  New 
Brunswick,  6  each  for  Prince  Edward  Island  and  British  Columbia,  and  5 
for  Manitoba.  There  are  30,144  Canadian  militiamen,  with  a  military 
school  at  Kingston ;  and  the  navy  consists  of  8  armed  screw-steamers  (on 
the  Itckes  and  the  Gulf).  In  1800  Canada  had  240,000  inhabitants ;  in  1825, 
581,920;  in  1851,  1,842,265;  in  1871,  3,657,887;  and  in  1881,  4,324,810. 
Between  1842  and  1872,  831,168  emigrants  from  Great  Britain  entered 
Canada;  and  in  the  same  period,  4,338,086  persons,  from  the  same  king- 
dom, emigrated  to  the  United  States.  The  exports  and  imports  of  Canada 
amount  to  about  $  90,000,000  a  yeta.  Her  chief  trade  is  with  Great  Brit- 
ain and  the  United  States,  and  the  main  exports  are  brendstuffs  and  tim- 
ber. The  Dominion  has  nearly  10,000  M.  of  railways,  and  there  are  more 
than  6,000  post-ofiices. 

The  first  European  explorer  who  visited  this  country  was  Jacques  C«r- 


236 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


tier,  who  landed  at  Gasp^  in  1634,  and  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  site 
of  Montreal  during  the  following  year.  Seventeen  years  later  the  ill-fated 
Roberval  founded  an  ephemeral  colony  near  Quebec,  and  thereafter  for 
over  half  a  century  Canada  was  unvisited.  In  1603  Champlain  ascended 
to  the  site  of  Montreal,  and  Quebec  and  Montreal  were  soon  founded ;  while 
the  labors  of  explorations,  missions,  and  fighting  tlie  Iroquois  were  carried 
on  without  cessation.  In  1629  Canada  was  taken  by  an  English  fleet  under 
Sir  David  Kirke,  but  it  was  restored  to  France  in  1632.  The  Company  of 
the  Hundred  Associates  was  founded  by  Cardinal  Richelieu  in  1627,  to 
erect  settlements  in  La  NouveUe  France,  but  the  daring  and  merciless  in- 
cursions of  the  Iroquois  Indians  prevented  the  growth  of  the  colonies,  and 
in  1663  the  company  was  dissolved.  Finally,  after  they  had  exterminated 
tlie  unfortunate  Huron  nation,  the  Iroquois  destroyed  a  part  of  Mon- 
treal and  many  of  Its  people  (1689).  The  long  and  bitter  wars  between 
Canada  and  the  Anglo-American  colonics  had  now  commenced,  and  New 
York  and  New  Ei^gland  were  ravaged  by  the  French  troops  and  their  allied 
Indians. 

Naval  expeditions  were  sent  from  Boston  against  Quebec  in  1690  and 
1711,  but  they  both  ended  disastrously.  Montreal  and  its  environs  were 
several  times  assailed  by  the  forces  of  New  York,  but  most  of  the  fighting 
was  done  on  the  line  of  Lake  Champlain  and  in  the  Maritime  Provinces. 
At  last  these  outposts  fell,  and  powerful  British  armies  entered  Canada  on 
the  E.  and  W.  In  1769  Wolfe's  army  captured  Quebec,  after  a  pitched 
battle  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham;  and  in  the  following  year  Montreal  was 
occupied  by  Gen.  Amherst,  with  17,000  men.  The  French  troops  were 
sent  home;  and  in  1763,  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris,  France  ceded  to  Great 
Britain  all  her  immense  Canadian  domains.  There  were  then  67,000 
French  people  and  8,000  Indians  in  the  Province. 

The  resident  population  was  conciliated  by  tolerance  to  their  religion 
and  other  liberal  measures,  and  refused  to  join  the  American  Colonies 
when  they  revolted  in  1775.  The  army  of  Gen.  Montgomery  took  Montreal 
and  the  adjacent  country,  but  the  Canadians  declined  either  to  aid  or  to 
oppose  the  Americans ;  and  when  Arnold  was  defeated  in  his  attempt  to 
Ptorm  Quebec,  the  Continental  forces  were  soon  driven  back  into  the 
United  States.  In  1791  the  Provinces  of  Upper  Canada  and  Lower  Canada 
were  formed,  in  order  to  stop  the  discontent  of  the  French  population,  who 
were  thus  separated  from  the  English  and  Loyalist  settlements  to  the  W. 
In  1791  representative  government  was  established,  and  in  1793  slavery 
was  abolished.  The  War  of  1812  was  waged  bej'-ond  the  boundaries  of 
Lower  Canada,  except  during  the  abortive  attempt  of  the  Americans  to 
capture  Montreal.  In  1837  revolutionary  uprisings  occurred  in  various 
parts  of  Ca'^ada,  and  were  only  put  down  after  much  bloodshed.  In  1840 
the  two  Provinces  were  united,  after  which  the  seigniorial  tenures  were 
abolished,  decimal  currency  was  adopted,  the  laws  were  codified,  and  other 


PROVINCE  OF  QUEBEC. 


237 


B  to  the  site 
;he  ill-fated 
jreafter  for 
n  ascended 
ided;  while 
irere  carried 
I  fleet  under 
Company  of 
in  1627,  to 
nerciless  in- 
jolonies,  and 
xterminated 
>art  of  Mon- 
^ars  between 
ed,  and  New 
id  their  allied 

5  in  1690  and 
snvirons  were 
»f  the  fighting 
ne  Provinces, 
•ed  Canada  on 
tier  a  pitched 
Montreal  was 
h  troops  were 
eded  to  Great 
•e  then  67,000 

their  religion 
irican  Colonies 
took  Montreal 
ler  to  aid  or  to 
his  attempt  to 
back  into  the 
Lower  Canada 
)opulation,who 
ents  to  the  W. 
in  1793  slavery 
boundaries  of 
e  Americans  to 
rred  in  various 
Ished.    In  1840 
lI  tenures  were 
difled,  and  other 


improvements  took  place.  The  capital,  which  had  been  shifted  from 
Kingston  to  Montreal,  and  then  to  Toronto,  was  established  by  the  Queen 
at  Ottawa  in  1860.  The  French  and  English  deputies  in  Parliament  were 
still  at  odds,  and  after  a  long  wrangle  in  1864,  the  attention  of  the  country 
was  drar;n  to  the  old  project  of  confederation,  which  was  at  last  realized 
in  1867,  and  Canada  (then  divided  into  Ontario  and  Quebec)  andthe.Mari- 
time  Provinces  were  consolidated  into  tlie  Dominion  of  Canada.  Since 
that  day  the  councils  of  the  Imperial  Government  have  manifested  a  de- 
sire to  give  independence  to  the  new  State ;  and  the  Dominion,  endowed 
with  autonomic  powers,  has  made  rapid  advances,  building  great  railways, 
bridges,  and  canals,  and  forwarding  internal  improvements.  Meantime 
Ontario  lias  gained  a  preponderating  power  in  the  national  councils,  and 
the  statesmen  of  Quebec  are  now  maturing  plans  for  the  repatriation  of 
the  500,000  French-Canadians  now  in  the  United  States,  hoping  thereby  to 
restore  the  Province  of  Quebec  to  her  former  pre-eminence  and  to  popu- 
late her  waste  places. 

"  Like  a  virgin  goddess  in  a  primeval  world,  Canada  still  walks  in  nnconscioni 
beauty  among  her  golden  woods  and  along  the  margin  of  her  trackless  streams, 
catching  but  broken  glances  of  her  radiant  majesty,  as  mirrored  on  their  surface, 
and  scarcely  dreams  as  yet  of  the  glorious  future  awaiting  her  in  tbo  Olympus  of 
nations."  (Eabl  or  Duffsrin.) 

*(  The  beggared  noble  of  the  early  time  became  a  sturdy  country  gentleman ; 
poor,  but  not  wretched  ;  ignorant  of  books,  except  possibly  a  few  scraps  of  rusty 
Latin  picked  up  in  a  Jesuit  school ;  hardy  as  the  hardiest  woodsman,  yet  never  for- 
getting his  quality  of  gen^i/Ziomme/  scrupulously  wearing  its  badge,  the  sword,  and 
copying  as  well  as  he  could  the  jGishions  of  the  court,  which  glowed  on  his  vision 
across  the  sea  in  all  the  effulgence  of  Tersailles,  and  beamed  with  reflected  ray  from 
the  chateau  of  Quebec.  He  was  at  home  among  his  tenants,  at  home  among  the 
Indians,  and  never  more  at  home  than  when,  a  gun  in  his  hand  and  a  cruci£c  on 
his  breast,  he  took  the  war-path  with  a  crew  of  painted  savages  and  Frenchmen 
almost  as  wild,  and  pounced  like  a  lynx  from  the  forest  on  some  lonely  farm  or  out- 
lying hamlet  of  New  England.  How  New  England  hated  him,  let  her  records  tell. 
The  reddest  blood-streaks  on  her  old  annals  mark  the  track  of  the  Canadian  gMUil- 
homme."  (Parkhan.) 

"  To  a  traveller  from  the  Old  World,  Canada  East  may  appear  like  a  new  coun- 
try, and  its  inhabitants  like  colonists ;  but  to  me,  coming  from  New  Engkmd, .... 
it  appeared  as  old  as  Normandy  itself,  and  realized  much  that  1  had  heard  of 
Europe  and  the  Middle  Ages.  Even  the  name^  of  humble  Canadian  villages  afifected 
me  as  if  they  had  been  those  of  the  renowned  cities  of  antiquity.  To  be  told  by  a 
habitant,  when  I  asked  the  name  of  a  village  in  sight,  that  it  is  St.  Fereole  or  SSt. 
Anne,  the  Guardian  Angel  or  the  Holy  Joseph's ;  or  of  a  mountain,  that  it  was 
Be'.ange  or  St.  Hyarinthe !  As  soon  as  you  leave  the  States,  these  »iJntly  names 
btii^in.  St.  John  is  the  first  town  you  stop  at,  and  thenceforward  the  names  of  the 
mountains  and  streams  and  villages  reel,  if  I  may  so  speak,  with  the  intoxication 
of  poetry, — Chambly,  Longueuil,  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  Bartholomy,  etc.,  etc., — as 
if  it  needed  only  a  little  foreign  accent,  a  few  more  liquids  and  vowels  perchance  in 
the  language,  to  make  us  locate  our  ideals  at  once.  I  began  to  dream  of  Provence 
and  the  Troubadours,  and  of  places  and  things  which  have  no  existence  on  the 
earth.  They  veiled  the  Indian  and  the  primitive  forest,  and  the  woods  toward  Hud- 
son's Bay  were  only  as  the  forests  of  France  &nd  Germany.  I  could  not  at  once 
bring  myself  to  believe  that  the  inhabitants  who  pronounced  daily  those  beautUtal 
and,  to  me,  signifloant  names  lead  as  prosaic  livesas  we  of  New  England. 


238      Moute  66. 


PICTOU  TO  QUEBEC. 


"  On*  of  th*  trlbutaxlM  of  the  St.  Ann*  it  named  La  Riviirt  de  la  Rot*,  and  iaf 
ther  east  are  La  Riviire  de  la  Blondelie  and  La  Riviira  de  la  Friponne.  Their  very 
riviire  meanders  more  than  our  river [It  is]  a  mora  western  and  wilder  Arca- 
dia, methinks,  than  the  world  has  ever  seen ;  for  the  Greeks,  with  all  their  wood 
and  river  gods,  were  not  so  qualified  to  name  the  natural  features  of  a  country  as 
the  ancestors  of  these  French  Canadians  ;  and  if  any  people  had  a  right  to  suMti- 
tute  their  own  for  the  Indian  names,  it  was  they.  They  have  preceded  the  pioneer 
on  our  own  firontiers,  and  named  the  prairie  for  us."  (Tboreao.) 


On  the  question  as  to  whether  the  Canadians  speak  good  French,  Potherie  says 
that  "  they  had  no  dialect,  which,  indeed,  is  generally  lust  in  a  colony."  Charle- 
toix  observed  (about  1720) :  "  The  French  language  is  nowhere  spoken  with  greater 
purity,  there  being  no  accent  perceptible."  Bougainville  adds :  "  They  do  not 
know  bqjr  to  write,  but  they  speak  with  ease  and  with  an  accent  as  good  as  the 
Parisian.''  Prof.  Silliman  says  that  they  speak  as  good  French  as  the  common 
Americans  speak  English. 

From  the  voluminous  work  of  M.  Rameau,  entitled  La  France  aux  Colonies '- 
Aeadiena  et  Cana/Iiens  (Paris,  1859),  we  learn  that  in  the  year  1920  the  valleys  of 
the  Saguenay,  Ottawa,  and  Lower  St.  Lawrence  shall  be  occupied  by  a  Franco- 
Canadiw  nation  of  5,000,(XX)  souls  ;  that  the  mournful  vices,  '*  impoverishment  of 
Intelligence,  and  corruption  of  manners,"  which  the  Anglo-American  race  in  the 
United  States  has  Buffered,  shall  be  opposed  and  checked  bv  the  fecund  genius  of  the 
French  race,  and  the  '^  scientific  and  artistic  aptitudes  of  the  Canadians,"  emanating 
oontinent^nlightening  radiance  from  the  walls  of  the  Laval  University ;  that  the 
dissolute  barbarism  of  the  Americans  shall  be  ameliorated  by  the  sweet  influences 
of  the  "  Greco-Latin  idea "  of  the  Franco-Canadians ;  and  that  that  agricultural 
and  intellectual  people,  "  the  general  and  essential  principle  of  whose  material  and 
intellectual  power  is  in  their  religious  faith  and  in  the  simplicity  of  their  manners," 
shall  profit  by  the  sad  experience  of  Old  France,  —  and  under  the  conservative  influ- 
ences of  a  social  aristocracy  shall  erect  a  New  France,  to  be  forever  illustrious  in  iti 
onltura  "  dt  Vesprit^  la  modestie  dea  maurs,  la  liberti  et  la  religion.''^ 

66.  Pictou  to  Quebec. — The  Coasts  of  Gaifpe  and  the  Lower 

St  Lawrenca 

This  voyage  is  full  of  interest  to  the  lover  of  fine  scenery,  and  leads 
through  some  of  the  most  attractive  parts  of  the  Provinces.  The  vessels 
pass  the  lofty  highlands  of  Nova  Scotia,  the  Acadian  districts  on  the 
sandy  shores  of  New  Brunswick,  the  stately  mountains  about  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur,  and  the  frowning  ridges  of  Gasp^.  Then  comes  the  ascent  of 
the  majestic  St.  Lawrence,  with  its  white  French  villages,  its  Alpine 
shores,  and  romantic  history,  terminated  by  the  quaint  mediaeval  towers 
of  Quebec,  "the  Walled  City  of  the  North."  The  steamers  are  large  and 
comfortable,  and  are  quite  steady  in  ordinary  seasons.  The  cabin-tables 
are  well  supplied,  and  the  attendance  is  good.  There  is  but  little  danger 
from  sea-sickness,  except  in  very  breezy  weather  (see  also  page  3). 

This  route  is  served  by  the  vessels  of  the  Quebec  Steamship  Company. 

Passengers  leave  Halifax  by  railway  Monday  morning,  and  connect 
with  the  steamship  which  leaves  Pictou  on  the  same  afternoon,  calling  at 
Charlottetown,  Prince  Edward  Island,  Summerside,  P.  £.  I.,  PerciS,  Gaspd, 
Metis,  Father  Point,  and  Quebec,  arriving  at  the  latter  port  on  Friday, 
and  proceeding  at  once  to  Montreal,  where  she  arrives  next  morning.    Se- 


CARLETON. 


Route  ee.   239 


)M,  and  ftw 
Their  Tery 
wilder  Arca- 
,  their  wood 
,  countrv  ai 
ht  to  Buhatl- 
Uie  pioneer 


taming,  the  steamer  leaves  Montreal  on  Monday,  and  Quebec  on  Tues- 
day,  and  arrives  in  Pictoa  on  Saturday  morning.  Connections  are  made 
with  steamboats  for  the  inner  ports  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  at  Perc^,  and 
travellers  may  thus  reach  the  line  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  at  Camp- 
bellton. 


Potherle  says 

ly."  Charle- 
i  with  greater 
They  do  not 
a  good  as  the 
the  common 


MX  Colonies^ 
the  valleys  of 
by  a  Franco- 
iveVlBhment  of 
an  race  In  the 
d  genius  of  the 
IB,"  emanating 
fgity ;  that  the 
meet  influences 
at  j^cultural 
ise  material  and 
heir  manners," 
jFervatlve  Influ- 
lllustrious  in  Its 


the  Lower 

py,  and  leads 
The  vessels 
stricts  on  the 
,ut  the  Bay  of 
the  ascent  of 
es,  its  Alpine 
^diJBval  towers 
s  are  large  and 
le  cabin-tables 
it  little  danger 
lage  3). 
liip  Company. 
;,  and  connect 
ioon,  calling  at 
.,Perc6,  Ga8p<5, 
irt  on  Friday, 
morning'    B«- 


Halifax  to  Pictou,  see  Route  31.    St.  John  to  Shediac,  see  Route  14. 

After  leaving  Pictou  Harbor,  the  steamship  passes  out  between  Caribou 
Island  and  Pictou  Island  (see  also  page  175),  and  enters  the  Northumber- 
land Strait.  On  the  S.  are  the  dark  highlands  of  Pictou  County,  among 
whose  glens  are  scattered  settlements  of  Scottish  people.  10-12  M.  N.  are 
the  low  hills  of  Prince  Edward  Island.  The  deep  bight  of  Tatamagouche 
Bay  (see  page  81)  is  passed  about  85  M.  W.  of  Pictou,  and  the  blue  and 
monotonous  line  of  the  Cobequid  Mts.  may  be  seen  in  the  S.,  in  very  clear 
weather.  Beyond  Bale  Verte  the  steamer  passes  through  the  narrow 
part  of  the  Strait  between  Cape  Traverse  and  Cape  Tormentine,  and  the 
low  red  shores  of  Prince  Edward  Island  are  seen  on  the  r.  The  course  is 
next  laid  along  the  level  Westmoreland  coast  (see  page  59),  and  the  har- 
bor of  Shediac  is  entered. 

The  general  aspect  of  the  N.  Shore  of  New  Brunswick  is  described  in 
Koute  15  (page  60).  It  is  to  be  remembered,  however,  that  the  Gulf- 
Ports  steamships  do  not  stop  at  Richibucto,  Bathurst,  or  Campbellton. 
Having,  then,  described  the  coast  from  Shediac  to  Dalhousie  in  Route  16, 
the  present  route  will  follow  the  shores  of  the  great  Gaspesian  peninsula. 

As  the  steamship  leaves  the  estuary  of  the  Restigouche,  the  red  sand- 
stone cliffs  of  Maguacka  Point  are  passed,  on  the  I.,  beyond  which  is  the 
broad  lagoon  of  'Carleton  Road.  The  beautiful  peak  of  *  Traoadiegash 
is  now  approached,  and  after  passing  the  lighthouse  on  Traoadiegash 
Point,  the  white  village  of  Carleton  is  seen  on  the  Quebec  shore.  This 
place  has  about  800  inhabitants  and  a  convent,  and  is  snugly  situated 
under  the  lee  of  the  mountains,  near  a  bay  which  is  secure  during  gales 
from  the  N.  and  £.  Immense  schools  of  herring  visit  these  shores  during 
the  springtime,  at  the  spawning  season,  and  are  caught,  to  be  used  as  food 
and  for  fertilizing  the  ground.  The  village  is  enterprising  and  active,  and 
is  inhabited  chiefly  by  Acadians.  The  steamer  stops  off  the  port  if  there 
are  any  passengers  or  freight  to  be  landed. 


240      RauU  66. 


PASPEBIAC. 


I 


M 


111       I 


"Carleton  Id  a  pretty  town,  to  which  a  steamer  Mtnettmea  ram  from  CUnp- 
beUton.  rendering  the  nalmon  streams  in  the  Ticinity  quite  accesbihle.  ^en  the 
ran  siiines,  its  white  cottages,  nestling  at  the  foot  of  the  majestic  Tracadiegash 
Bfountnin,  glisten  like  snow-flalces  against  the  sombre  bacltground,  and  gleam  out 
in  lovely  contrast  with  the  clouds  that  cap  the  summit  of  this  outpost  sentinel  of 
the  Alleghany  range."    (Haixock.) 

The  steamer  now  passes  out  upon  "  the  undulating  and  voluptuous  Bay 
of  Chaleur,  full  of  long  folds,  of  languishing  contours,  which  the  wind 
caresses  with  fan-like  breath,  and  whose  softened  shores  receive  the  flood- 
ing of  the  waves  without  a  murmur."  On  the  N.  is  Cascapediac  Bay,  on 
whose  shores  are  the  Acadian  and  Scottish  hamlets  of  Maria  and  New 
Richmond,  devoted  to  farming  and  the  fisheries.  The  rugged  peaks  of  the 
Tracadiegash  range  are  seen  in  fine  retrospective  views. 

New  Carlisle  is  near  the  mouth  of  the  Grand  Bonaventure  River,  and  is 
the  capital  of  Bonaventure  County.  It  has  700  inhabitants,  and  is  en- 
gaged in  the  fisheries,  having  also  a  few  summer  visitors.  The  churches 
and  court-houst  occupy  a  conspicuous  position  on  the  liigh  bank  which 
overlooks  the  bay.  This  town  was  founded  in  1785  by  American  Loyal- 
ists, who  received  from  the  government  one  j*ear's  provisions,  lands,  seeds, 
and  farming-implements.  $400,000  was  expended  in  establishing  this 
settlement  and  Douglastown. 

Faspebiao  ( darkens  Hotel)  is  a  village  of  400  inhabitants,  situated  on 
the  N.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur,  440  M.  from  Quebec.  Its  harbor  is 
formed  by  a  fine  beach  of  sand  3  M.  long,  curving  to  the  S.,  and  forming 
a  natural  breakwater  against  the  sea  during  easterly  gales.  The  cimrch 
and  houses  of  the  village  are  built  above  the  red  clifis  of  the  shore,  and 
present  the  neat  and  orderly  appearance  of  a  military  post.  On  the  line 
of  the  beach  are  the  great  white  (and  red-trimmed)  storehouses  and  ship- 
yards of  Charles  Robin  &  Co.  and  Le  Boutillier  Brothers,  the  mercantile 
establishments  which  sustain  the  place. 

Robin  &  Co.  is  an  ancient  house  which  dates  from  1768,  and  has  its  headquarters 
at  the  Isle  of  Jersey,  off  the  coast  of  France.  Paspebiac  was  settled  in  1766  by  Charles 
Robin,  who  established  here  a  large  fishing  station.  In  June,  1778,  the  place  was 
taken  by  two  American  privateers,  which  carried  away  the  vessels  Hope  and  Bee. 
The  whole  fleet  was  soon  afterward  captured  by  H.  B.  M.  frigates.J7un^«r  and  Piptr, 
but  Robin  was  forced  to  pay  such  heavy  salvage  that  it  ruined  his  business.  In 
1788  he  came  back  here  under  French  colors,  and  in  20  years  accumulated  a  great 
fortune.  The  firm  of  Charles  Robin  &  Co.  is  now  the  moist  powerful  on  all  these 
coasts,  and  keeps  large  fleets  employed,  supporting  numerous  villages  firom  7  wealthy 
establishments.  The  heads  of  the  firm  live  in  Jersey,  and  their  officers  and  man- 
agers on  this  coast  are  forced  by  rule  to  lead  a  life  of  celibacy.  Thin  company  em- 
ploys 7£0  men,  besides  17  vessels  and  151  sailors ;  and  the  LeBoutilliers  have  680 
men  and  15  vessels.  They  export  vast  quantities  of  fish  and  oil  to  the  West  Indies 
and  the  Mediterranean,  supplying  their  (Canadian  posts,  in  return,  with  all  needed 
product!!  of  other  countries.  Paspebinc  receives  $  100,000  worth  of  goods  jearlv, 
»nd  exports  $800,000  worth  of  fish.  The  best  fish  is  sent  to  the  Mediterranean  in 
bulk,  the  second  grade  goes  in  tubs  to  Brazil,  and  the  poorest  is  shipped  in  casks 
to  the  West  Indies.  The  Jersey  fleet  reaches  Paspebiac  early  in  May,  spends  the 
aummer  fishing  in  the  bay  and  Gulf,  and  returns  in  December.  The  American  mar* 
ket  is  supplied  by  the  Cape- Ann  fleet  in  these  waters;  and  the  proceeds  .of  the  au- 
tumnal months  are  sold  in  Upper  Canada.  The  annual  yield  of  the  Ray  of  Chaleur 
U  eatimated  at  26,000  quintals  of  dry  codfish,  600  quintals  of  liaddock,  8,000  bar- 


± 


CAPE  DESPAIR. 


Jtwte  ee.    241 


ftom  Camir 
When  the 
•Tnicadlegash 
id  gleftin  out 
gt  sentinel  or 

AptuouB  Bay 
cli  the  wind 
ive  the  flood- 
tdiac  Bau,  on 
ria  and  New 
I  peaks  of  the 

5  Kiver,  and  U 
its,  and  is  eii- 
Tlie  churches 
rh  bank  which 
nerican  Loyal- 
as,  lands,  seeds, 
Btablishing  this 

nts,  situated  on 
..    Its  harbor  Is 
S.,  and  forming 
es.    The  church 
,f  the  shore,  and 
ost.    On  the  line 
.houses  and  ship- 
i,  the  mercantile 


\9» 


w  Its  headquarters 
itn  1766  by  Charles 
1778,  the  place  2J 

■lels  Hope  and  i««- 
SfunJTr  and  P.D^r 

d  hl8  bu»i«»««»- JS 
tcn..mlatedfg*|t 
>werful  on  all  these 

llBgeB  from  7  wealthy 
ir  officers  and  roan- 
ThiH  company  exn^ 
.BoutUUerfl  have  6^ 
kU  to  the  West  Indies 
[urn  with  all  needed 

S'of  floods  yearlj, 
heMedlterrtneanln 

^rti».-wpp«i^„vX 

^?h?«S: 

i'SSdoci.  8,000  h«- 


fslf  of  herring,  800  bwrreli  of  Mlmon,  and  16,000  galloiu  of  ood-oiL  Tbe  flahecles 
of  the  bay  and  Qolf  are  Talued  at  f  800,000  a  year,  and  iamploy  1,600  sail  of  Teeielf 
and  18,000  men. 

In  January  and  February  the  thermometer  somethnes  sinks  to  25"  below  nio, 
and  the  bay  ia  overhung  by  dark  massefi  of  "  frost  smoke."  In  this  season  the 
Aurora  Borealis  is  seen  by  night,  illuminating  the  whole  northern  horiion  with 
steady  brilliance.  In  July  and  August  the  thermometer  ranges  from  66°  to  100*, 
and  the  air  is  tempered  by  fresh  sea-breezes. 

The  name  Paspebiae  means  ^'broken  banks,"  and  the  inhabitants  are  called 
Paspy  Jacks  or  Pospillots.  Many  of  the  bits  of  a^te  and  jasper  called  *'■  Qasp6  peb> 
bles  "  are  found  on  this  shore  after  the  gales  of  spring  and  autumn,  and  are  sent  to 
the  jewellers  of  London  and  Quebec  It  is  supposed  Uiat  they  come  firom  the  con- 
glomerate rocks  on  the  Restigouche  Biver. 

Beyond  Paspebiae  are  the  shores  of  Hope,  on  which  immense  masses  of 
caplin-fisb  are  thrown  up  every  spring.  They  are  shovelled  into  wagons 
by  the  farmers  and  are  used  to  fertilize  the  land.  The  next  point  of  in- 
terest is  the  deep  bay  of  Port  Daniel^  a  safe  and  well-sheltered  haven,  on 
whose  W.  shore  is  a  remarkable  hill,  400  ft  high.  Near  the  fishing- 
village  up  the  harbor  are  deposits  of  oil-bearing  shale.  The  steamer  soon 
passes  Point  Maquereau  (which  some  consider  the  N.  portal  of  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur),  with  Point  Miscou  on  the  S.  E. 

At  midnight  on  Oct.  15, 1838,  the  ship  Colbome  went  ashore  on  Point  Maquerean, 
and  was  soon  broken  to  pieces.  Her  crew,  consisting  of  42  men,  was  lost.  The 
cargo  was  composed  of  silks,  wines,  silver-plate,  and  specie,  and  was  valued  at 
over  8  400,000.    The  wreckers  of  Gasp6  recovered  rich  treasures  from  the  wreck. 

Newport  is  6  M.  beyond  Point  Maquereau,  and  is  inhabited  by  200  Aca- 
dians,  who  are  devoted  to  the  fisheries  and  to  the  pursuit  of  the  vast  fiocks 
of  wild  fowl  which  resort  to  these  shores  daring  the  spring  and  autumn. 
Great  and  Little  Pabos  are  seaside  hamlets,  4  and  8  M.  farther  E.  4  M. 
beyond  is  Grand  River,  a  large  Acadian  village  clustered  about  the  fish- 
ing-establLshment  of  Robin  &  Co.  It  is  7  M.  from  this  point  to  Cape 
Despair. 

Cape  Despair  was  named  by  the  French  Cap  cTEspoir,  or  Cape  Hope,  and  the 
present  name  is  either  an  Anglicized  pronunciation  of  this  French  word,  or  else  was 
given  in  memory  of  the  terrible  disaster  of  1711.  During  that  year  Queen  Anne  sent 
a  great  fleet,  with  7,000  soldiers,  with  orders  to  capture  Quebec  and  occupy  Canada. 
The  fleet  was  under  Admiral  Sir  Hovenden  Walker,  and  the  army  was  commanded 
by  Qen.  Hill.  During  a  black  fog,  on  the  22d  of  August,  a  violent  storm  arose  and 
scattered  the  fleet  in  all  directions,  hurling  8  large  ships  on  the  terrible  ledges  of 
Egg  Island  (see  page  283)  and  Cape  Despair,  where  they  were  lost  with  all  on  board. 
Fragments  of  the  wrecks,  called  Le  Naufrage  Anglais,  were  to  be  seen  along  the 
shores  until  a  recent  date ;  and  there  was  a  wild  superstition  among  the  fishermen 
to  the  effect  that  sometimes,  when  the  sea  was  quiet  and  calm,  vast  white  waves 
would  roll  inward  from  the  Gulf,  bearing  a  phantom  ship  crowded  with  men  in 
ancient  military  costumes.  An  officer  stands  on  the  bow,  with  a  white^lad  woman 
on  his  left  arm,  and  as  the  maddened  surge  sweeps  the  doomed  ship  on  with  light- 
ning speed,  a  tremendous  crash  ensues,  the  clear,  agonized  cry  of  a  woman  swells 
over  the  great  voice  of  despair,  —  and  naught  is  seen  but  the  black  olifEs  and  the 
level  sea. 

Just  beyond  Gape  Despair  is  the  prosperous  fishing-station  of  Cape  Cove^ 
9  M.  from  Perc^.  The  traveller  should  now  be  on  the  lookout  for  the 
Percd  Rock  and  Bonaventure  Island.  The  steamer  runs  in  between  the 
Rook  and  the  Island,  affording  fine  views  of  both.  . 

11  P 


242     HxnOeee. 


PEBC£ 


The  *  Pero<  Book  is  288  ft.  high,  rising  with  preoipitoos  walls  direotljr 
fiom  the  waves;  and  is  about  600  ft.  long.  This  citadel-like  cliff  is  pierced 
by  a  lofty  arch,  through  which  the  long  levels  of  the  sea  are  visible.  Small 
boats  sometimes  traverse  this  weird  passage,  under  the  immense  Gothic 
arch  of  rock.  There  was  formerly  another  tunnel,  near  the  outer  point  of 
the  Sock,  but  its  roof  fell  in  with  a  tremendous  crash,  and  left  a  great 
obelisk  rising  from  the  sea  beyond. 

The  summit  of  the  Perc6  Rock  covers  about  two  acres,  and  is  divided  into  two 
great  districts,  one  of  which  is  inhabited  by  the  gulls,  and  the  cormorants  dwell  on 
the  otiier.  If  either  of  these  trespasses  on  the  other's  territory  (which  occurs  every 
fifteen  minutes,  at  least),  a  battle  ensues,  the  shrill  cries  of  hundreds  or  thousands 
of  birds  rend  the  air,  great  clouds  of  combatants  hover  over  the  plateau,  and  peace 
is  only  restored  by  the  retreat  of  the  invader.  When  the  conflict  is  between  large 
flocks,  it  is  a  scene  worthy  of  close  notice,  and  sometimes  becomes  highly  exciting. 
The  Rock  is  at  right  angles  with  Mt.  Joli,  and  is  of  new  red  sandstone.  The  top  is 
covered  with  fine  grass. 

Many  years  ago  the  Rock  was  ascended  by  two  fishermen,  and  the  way  once  being 
found,  scores  of  men  clambered  up  by  ropes  and  carried  away  the  eggs  and  young 
birds,  finding  tht/ older  ones  so  tame  that  they  liad  to  be  lifted  off  the  nests.  This 
vast  aviary  would  have  been  depopulated  long  ere  this,  but  that  the  Perc6  magis- 
trates passed  a  law  forbidding  the  ascent  of  the  Rock.  There  are  numerous  quaint 
and  weird  legends  attached  to  this  place,  the  strangest  of  which  is  that  of  Le  Ginie 
de  Vile  Percie,  a  phantom  often  seeu  over  the  plateau.  "  It  is  likely  that  the  founda- 
tion for  this  legend  can  he  traced  to  the  vapory  or  cloud-like  :  ppearance  the  vast 
flocks  of  water-fowl  assume  when  seen  at  a  distance,  wheeling  in  every  fiiuitastio 
shape  through  the  air,  previous  to  alighting  on  the  summit." 

The  harbor  of  Percd  is  very  insecure,  and  is  open  to  the  N.  E.  winds.  In 
earlier  times  this  port  was  called  La  Terre  des  Tempetes,  so  frequent  and 
disastrous  were  the  storms.  The  village  has  about  400  inhabitants,  most 
of  whom  follow  the  shore-fisheries  in  small  boats.  The  town  is  visited 
every  spring  and  summer  by  hundreds  of  stalwart  Jersey  lads,  sent  out  by 
the  Robins. 

Perc^  consists  of  South  Beach,  where  are  the  white-and-red  buildings  of 
the  Robin  establishment;  and  North  Beach,  where  is  the  bulk  of  the  popu- 
lation, with  the  court-house,  jail,  and  Catholic  church.  The  two  sections 
are  separated  by  Mount  Joli,  a  lofty  promontory  which  here  approaches 
Perc^  Rock.  The  Episcopal  church  is  a  cosey  little  Gothic  structure, 
accommodating  100  persons.  Perc^  is  "  the  Elysium  of  fishermen,*'  and 
hence  arises  a  circumstance  which  detracts  from  its  value  as  a  summer 
resort,  —  when  the  shore  is  covered  with  the  refuse  parts  of  codfish,  pro- 
ducing a  powerful  and  unpleasant  odor.  It  is  said  that  even  the  potatoes 
are  found  to  contain  fish-bones. 

Back  of  Perc^  is  the  remarkable  *  Honnt  St.  Anne,  with  its  bold  and 
massive  square  top  rising  1,230  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  visible  for  a  distance 
of  70  M.  over  the  water.  This  eminence  may  be  ascended  without  great 
trouble,  and  from  its  summit  is  obtained  one  of  the  noblest  views  in  tlie 
Maritime  Provinces.  It  includes  many  leagues  of  the  savage  mountain- 
land  of  Gasp^,  extending  also  along  the  coast  from  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  to 
Gasp^  Bay  and  Ship  Head.    But  the  marine  view  is  the  most  attractive 


PEBCfi. 


Emiuee,    243 


alls  directly 
Uffte  pierced 
Lsible.  Small 
oense  Gothic 
juter  point  of 
i  left  a  great 

livided  into  two 
lorants  dwell  on 
ich  occurs  eveiy 
ds  or  thousands 
iteau,  and  peace 
i9  between  large 
highly  exciting, 
one.    The  top  is 

le  way  once  being 

,  eggs  and  young 

the  nests,    inw 

the  Perc6  inagls- 

numerous  quain* 

that  of  U  Ginit 
IV  that  the  founds^ 
.iearance  the  ^ast 
S  every  fentastlo 

)N.E.  "Winds.  In 
,  80  frequent  and 
inhabitants,  most 
e  town  is  visited 
lads,  sent  out  by 

■red  buildings  of 
bulkofthepopu- 
The  two  sections 
here  approaches 
Gothic  structure, 
f  fishermen,"  and 
due  as  a  summer 
ts  of  codfish,  pro- 
even  the  potatoes  . 

with  its  bold  and 
Lsible  for  a  distance 

ided  without  great 
oblest  views  in  the 
,  savage  mountain- 
_  Bay  of  Chaleur  to 
lie  most  attractive 


and  embraces  many  leagues  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  with  its  great  fish- 
ing-fleets and  squadrons  of  small  boats.  It  overlooks  Bonaventure  and 
Perc^  Rock.  A  fine  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  highway  near  French 
Town,  including  a  vast  area  of  the  Gulf,  the  bird-colonies  on  top  of  the 
Bock,  Point  St.  Peter,  and  Barry  Head,  with  its  conspicuous  Catholic 
church.  The  walk  around  the  mountain  to  the  corner  of  the  beach  is  full 
of  interest;  and  the  road  through  the  hills  to  Gasp^  is  picturesque,  though 
rough,  leading  by  Corny  Beach  and  through  a  profound  mountain-gorge. 
Mt.  St.  Anne  is  also  known  as  Mt.  Joli  and  the  Table  Roulante.  Upon  its 
red -sandstone  slopes  are  found  shell-fossils,  jasper,  agate,  and  fine  quartz 
crystals. 

*  Bonaventare  Island  forms  a  great  natural  breakwater  before  the 
Perc^  shores,  and  is  surrounded  by  deep  channels.  It  is  2[|  M-  from  the  main- 
land, and  the  passage  around  the  island  in  a  small  boat  afibrds  a  pleasant 
excursion.  Bonaventure  is  2^  M.  long  and  |  M.  wide,  and  is  a  vast  pile 
of  red  conglomerate  rock,  with  a  line  of  cliffs  3-500  ft.  high,  facing  the 
Gulf  over  50  fathoms  of  water.  There  are  about  300  French  Catholics 
on  the  shores,  connected  with  the  fishing-establishment  of  LeBoutillier 
Brothers.  The  island  was  formerly  the  property  of  Capt.  Duval,  a  brave 
mariner  of  the  Channel  Isles,  who,  in  the  privateer  Vulture^  swept  the 
coasts  of  France  during  the  Napoleonic  wars.   He  is  buried  on  Mount  Joli. 

'*  Perc4  is  one  of  the  curiosities  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  If  one  should  believe  all  the 
fkntastic  stories,  to  which  tradition  adds  its  prestige,  that  rest  about  this  formidable 
rock,  thrown  forward  into  a  ceaselessly  surging  and  often  stormy  sea,  like  a  fearless 
defiance  from  the  shoal  to  the  abyss,  it  could  only  be  approached  with  a  mysterious 
dread  mingled  with  anguish.  Percd  proper  is  a  village  of  200  firesides,  established 
on  a  promontory  that  seems  to  guard  the  St.  Lawrence :  this  promontory  is  not  lofty, 
nor  does  it  compare  with  our  northern  mountains ;  but  it  is  wrinkled,  menacing, 
fhll  of  a  fierce  grandeur ;  it  might  be  said  that  the  long  battle  with  the  ocean  has 
revealed  to  it  \ia  strength  and  the  power  which  it  hol&  from  God  to  restrain  the 
waves  from  passing  their  appointed  bounds.  It  Is  an  archer  of  the  Middle  Ages, 
covered  with  iron,  immovable  in  his  armor,  and  who  receives,  invulnerable,  all  the 
blows  of  the  enemy.  In  face  of  the  Atlantic,  which  has  beaten  it  with  tempests 
through  thousands  of  centuries,  trembling  under  the  eternal  shower  of  the  waves, 
but  immovable  as  a  decree  of  heaven,  gloomy,  thoughtful,  enduring  without  mur- 
mur the  wrathful  torrents  that  inundate  it,  bent  downward  like  a  fidlen  god  who 
expiates  in  an  eternity  the  arrogant  pride  of  a  single  day,  Perc^  fills  us  at  once  with 
a  sorrowful  admiration  and  a  sublime  pity."    (Arthub  Buigs.) 

Percd  was  visited  by  Oartier  in  1684,  and  thereafter  became  a  celebrated  fishing- 
station  for  the  French  fleets.  The  coast  from  Ganso  to  Cape  Rosier  was  granted 
soon  after,  and  on  its  reversion  to  the  Crown  this  site  was  bestowed  on  De  Fronsao, 
who  founded  a  permanent  village  hom,  while  over  500  transient  fishermen  made  it  a 
summer  rendezvous.  Bishop  Laval  sent  the  Franciscans  here  in  1678  to  look  after 
the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  people,  and  they  erected  a  chapel  at  Perci  and  the 
Church  of  St  Claire  on  Bonaventure  Island.  In  1690  the  place  was  taken,  with  all 
its  vessels,  by  two  British  frigates,  whose  crews  sacked  and  burnt  all  the  houses  at 
Percd  and  Bonaventure,  destroyed  the  churches,  and  fired  150  gunshots  through 
the  picture  of  St.  Peter.  IiT  1711  another  naval  attack  was  made  by  the  British, 
and  the  French  ships  Hiroa  and  Vermandois  were  captured  in  the  harbor.  In  1776 
a  desperate  naval  combat  took  place  off  Perc6  Rock,  between  the  American  pri- 
vateers that  had  devastated  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  British  war- 
vessels  1Vb{/^and  DUigence.  Two  of  the  American  vessels  were  sunk  within  cannon* 
■hot  of  the  Rock. 


244    naituee. 


qaspL 


After  leaving  her  anehorage  off  Percd  the  steamship  mns  N.  across  the 
openings  of  Mai  Bay,  and  at  9  M.  out  passes  Point  8t  Peter,  with  its  fish- 
ing-village. The  coarse  is  next  laid  to  the  N.  W.  up  Gasp^  Bay,  with  the 
iktal  strand  of  the  Grand  Gr6ve  on  the  r.  To  the  1.  is  Douglattoum,  on 
the  broad  lagoon  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John  River  (famous  for  salmon). 
This  town  was  laid  out  by  Surveyor  Douglas,  and  is  inhabited  by  Irish 
and  French  people.  The  vessel  now  steams  in  through  the  narrow  strait 
between  the  grand  natural  breakwater  of  Sandy  beach  and  the  N.  shore, 
and  enters  the  *  Oasp^  Basin.  The  bay  is  20  M.  long  and  6  M.  wide, 
and  the  basin  is  a  secure  and  land-locked  harbor  at  its  head.  As  the 
steamer  rounds  the  lighthouse  on  Sandybeach,  beautiful  views  are  pre- 
sented of  the  broad  haven,  with  the  North  River  Mts.  to  the  W. 

"  The  mountains  of  Gasp6  are  fkir  to  behold, 
With  their  fleckings  of  shadow  and  gleamings  of  gold." 

f 

Oasp^  iGulf\H<me)  is  a  town  of  800  inhabitants,  beautifully  situated 
between  the  mountains  and  the  sea,  and  fronting  on  the  S.  W.  arm  of  the 
basin.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  county  and  a  free  port  of  entry,  and  is  de- 
voted to  the  fisheries,  having  several  whaling-ships  and  a  large  fleet  of 
schooners.  The  Gasp^  codfish  are  preferred,  in  the  Mediterranean  ports, 
to  the  Newfoundland  fish,  because  they  are  not  so  salty.  The  chief 
establishment  here  i»  that  of  the  LeBoutilliers,  who  have  also  a  fine 
mansion  near  the  village.  Petroleum  has  been  found  here,  and  wells  7  -  800 
ft.  deep  have  been  sunk  by  two  companies.  Gasp^  is  visited  by  2-800 
city  people  every  summer,  for  the  sake  of  its  picturesque  scenery,  cool 
and  sparkling  air,  and  the  conveniences  for  yachting  and  for  fishing.  The 
York  and  Dartmouth  Rivers  empty  into  the  basin,  and  are  famous  for 
their  game-fish.  The  adjacent  shores  are  fertile  and  are  thickly  settled, 
and  the  town  itself  is  rapidly  advancing  in  importance.  '  On  a  hill  to 
the  S.  is  Fort  Ramsay,  a  line  of  ^uns  among  the  trees.  This  is  the  first 
point  N.  of  Newcastle  where  the  steamer  is  moored  to  a  wharf.  Fort- 
nightly mail-packets  run  from  Gasp^  to  Esquimaux  Bay,  on  the  Labrador 
coast  (see  page  230). 

*'  What  a  glorious  sight!  Imagine  a  bay  20  M.  long  ending  in  a  basin  where  a 
fleet  of  a  thousand  vessels  could  be  sheltered.  On  right  and  left,  two  rivers,  which 
are  parted  by  the  port,  sweep  around  the  amphitheatrical  shores ;  hills  here  and 
there  of  savage  outline  or  covered  with  rounded  lawns ;  below,  a  little  line  of  piers, 
fishing-vessels,  schooners  and  some  brigs  swinging  their  slackened  sails  in  the  light 
breeie  which  blows  from  the  shores  ;  something  wild,  fresh,  and  vi^rous,  like  the 
first  spring  of  a  great  creation.  The  Oasp6  Basin  has  traits  of  the  giant  and  of  the 
in&nt ;  it  astonishes  and  charms ;  it  has  a  harmony  at  once  delicate  and  striking." 
(Arthur  Buibs.) 

The  Indians  of  Gaspi  were  distinguished,  in  a  remote  age,  for  unusual  advances 
in  civilization.  They  knew  the  points  of  the  compass,  traced  maps  of  their  country, 
observed  the  positions  of  the  stars,  and  worshipped  the  symbol  of  the  cross.  They 
intbrmed  the  early  Jesuit  missionaries  that  in  mr  distant  ages  they  were  scourged 
)>v  u  fsytaX  pestilence,  until  a  venerable  man  landed  on  their  shore,  and  arrested  the 
progri'ss  of  the  disfase  by  erecting  the  cross  (see  Pliai  Lbolgbo*s  Nouvetle  Halation  de 


GASPS!: 


AouU  66.     245 


[.  across  the 
rtth  its  fisb- 
ay,  with  the 
glasUwn,  on 
for  salmon), 
ited  by  Irish 
narrow  strait 
the  N.  shore, 
a  6  M.  wide, 
ead.    As  the 
lews  are  pre- 
W. 


« 

tifully  situated 
W.  arm  of  the 
itry,  and  is  de- 
i  large  fleet  of 
erranean  ports, 
ty.     The  chief 
ave  also  a  fine 
and  wells  7 -800 
sited  by  2-800 
te  scenery,  cool 
br  fishing.   The 
are  famous  for 
thickly  settled, 
,.  •  On  a  hill  to 
This  is  the  first 
a  wharf.    Fort- 
on  the  Labrador 

nabaslnvhcrea 

,,  two  rivers,  which 
4b-,  hills  here  and 

»rni^?{Se 
uJate  and  striking." 

r  unusual  advances 
pa  of  their  country, 
of  the  cross.  They 
they  were  scourged 
re,  and  arrested  the 


la  Chupisie,  1676).  It  Is  rapposed  that  fhls  m jtterlous  Tidtor  wu  a  Norssman.  TIm 
name  Oaspi  meani  '*  land's  end,"  one  of  Its  component  parts  being  found  also  iu 
the  aboriginal  words  Mala-gash, .  Traeadie-gash,  etc.  The  warlike  tribes  on  this 
shore  were  formerly  distinguished  for  their  fierce  and  Tictorious  forays  into  the  re> 
mote  lands  of  the  Montaignais  and  Esquimaux. 

Prof.  Bafn,  the  great  Danish  archseolopst,  has  adTanced  a  theory  to  the  effect 
that  Gasp6  was  a  fishing-station  of  the  Norse  Tlklngs  In  the  11th,  12th,  and  18th 
centuries.  It  is  supposed  that  it  was  visited  in  1606  by  the  Spanish  mariner  YelaKco, 
who  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  for  200  leagues,  or  else  by  Stefano  Oomea,  who  was 
sailing  from  Spain  to  Cuba  in  1525^  but  was  blown  for  firom  his  course,  and  entered 
the  Oulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  There  is  an  old  Castilian  tradition  that  the  gold-seeking 
Spaniards,  finding  no  precious  metals  here,  said,  "  Aca  not/a"  ("  There  is  nothing 
here").  This  oft-repeated  phrase  became  fixed  in  the  memory  of  the  Indians, 
though  it  was  not  comprehended ;  and  when  Gartier  came,  they  supposed  him  to  be 
of  the  same  people  as  the  previous  European  visitors,  and  endeavored  to  excite  Ills 
interest  by  repeating  the  words,  *'  Aca  u&da,  Aca  n^da."  He  thought  tliat  they 
were  giving  him  the  name  of  their  nation  or  country,  and  so,  according  to  this 
puerile  tradition,  arose  the  name  of  Canada.  Another  theory  of  the  derivation  of 
the  name  was  given  by  the  early  New-Englanders :  "  New  England  is  by  some  af- 
firmed to  be  an  island,  bounded  on  the  north  with  the  River  Canada  (so  called  from 
Monsieur  Cane)."  (Josseltn's  New  England^s  Rarities  Discovered,  1672. )  "  From 
this  lake  northwards  is  derived  the  famous  River  of  Canada,  so  named  of  Monsieur 
de  Cane,  a  French  Lord,  who  first  planted  a  colony  of  French  in  America."  (MoBp 
ton's  New  English  Canaan,  1682.) 

The  generally  received  account  of  the  origin  of  the  name  Canada  is  that  it  is  an 
Indian  compound  word.  Caugh-na-waugh-a  means  "  the  village  of  the  rapid,"  its 
first  syllable  being  similar  to  that  of  the  Indian  word  Caugh-na-daugh,  "village  of 
huts"  (also  of  uiugh-yu-ga,  or  Cayuga,  and  Caugh-na-dattgh'ga,  now  Canan- 
daigua),  which  has  l>een  euphonized  into  "  Canada."  When  Brant,  the  Mohawk 
chieftain,  translated  the  Gospel  of  St.  Matthew  into  his  own  language,  he  always 
put  Canada  for  "  a  village." 

In  April,  1534  (being  then  in  his  fortieth  year),  the  bold  and  sagacious  Jaques 
Cartier  set  sail  from  ancient  St.  Malo  ("  thrust  out  like  a  buttress  into  the  sea, 
strange  and  grim  of  aspect,  breathing  war  from  its  walls  and  battlements  of  ragged 
stone,  —  a  stronghold  of  privateers,  the  home  of  a  race  whose  intractable  and  de« 
flant  independence  neither  time  nor  change  has  subdued").  He  was  under  the 
patronage  of  Philippe  de  Brion-Chabot,  Admiral  of  France,  and  waa  sent  forth  to 
reconnoitre  a  new  route  to  Cathay,  for  the  great  advantage  of  European  commerce. 
It  was  also  thought  that  in  the  new  realms  beyond  the  sea  the  Catholic  Church 
might  make  such  conquests  as  would  requite  her  for  the  great  schisms  of  Luther  and 
Calvin  and  the  Anglican  Church.    The  result  has  nearly  justified  the  hope. 

The  intrepid  voyager  traversed  the  Strait  of  Belle  Isle,  and  stretched  across  to 
the  Baiedes  Chaleurs,  which  was  entered  on  the  9th  of  July,  and  received  Its  name 
ft-om  the  intense  heats  which  the  mariners  encountered  there.  He  then  landed  at 
Gaspe,  and  took  possession  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  his  Church  and  King  by 
erecting  a  cross,  30  ft.  high,  adorned  with  the  fleur-de-lis.  Here  he  met  a  company 
of  warriors  from  Quebec,  campaigning  against  the  natives  of  this  region,  and  car- 
ried two  of  them  to  France.  They  were  introduced  to  all  the  splendors  of  Paris 
and  the  court  of  Francis  I.,  and  in  the  following  year  returned  with  Cartier  and 
piloted  his  fleet  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  their  home  at  Stadacona  (Quebec). 

"  Twenty  vessels  were  laden  with  stores,  food,  building  implements,  guns,  and 
ammunition ;  nearly  150  pieces  of  ordnance  were  stowed  away  in  the  different  holds, 
to  be  mounted  upon  the  walls  of  Quebec  aud  other  forts ;  the  decks  were  crowded 
with  emigrants,  male  and  female ;  priests  were  there,  burning  with  religious  aeai ; 
and  everything  looked  hopeful  for  their  success.  The  whole  fleet  was  put  under  the 
command  of  M.  de  Roquemont,  a  French  Admiral;  and  fhll  of  hope  and  expectation 
they  set  sail  from  France  in  the  month  of  April,  1627."  This  stately  fleet  was  over- 
taken by  a  storm  in  the  Oulf,  and  took  refUge  In  Oaspi  Bay,  where  they  were  boldly 
attacked  by  Captain  Klrke's  English  squadron  of  3  vessels.  Kirke  summoned  the 
immensely  superior  French  fleet  to  surrender,  but  De  Roquemont,  though  unprepared 
for  battle,  and  hampered  with  fireight  and  non-combatants,  sent  back  a  spirited  refusal. 
The  Kirkes  then  saUed  boldly  into  the  hosUle  fleet,  and  after  laking  the  Adminl'a 


•  / 


r 


246      Xoute$7.  THE  LOWER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

ihtp,  earrlfld  it  by  boardinf .  The  French  rerinted  bat  feebly,  and  the  whole  nqiiad* 
toa  fell  into  the  oold  Briton's  hands.  He  burnt  10  vessels,  and  Ireighted  the  othen 
with  the  grand  train  of  artillery  and  the  other  stores,  with  wliich  he  returned  to 
England-  Champlain  was  left  in  despair,  at  Quebec  ;  and  the  Kirkes  were  burnt 
in  effigy  in  the  Place  de  Greve,  at  Paris. 

Oasp^  was  honored,  in  1663,  by  the  sojourn  of  the  brave  old  Baron  Dubois  d'Av- 
augour,  some  time  Governor  of  New  France.  From  this  point  he  sent  his  celebrated 
memorial  to  Colbert,  the  French  Prime  Minister,  after  he  had  been  deposed  from 
office  through  the  influence  of  Bishop  Laval  and  the  Jesuits.  Hence  he  sailed  to 
France,  and  soon  met  a  soldier's  death  in  the  Croatian  fortress  of  Ztin,  which  he 
was  defending  against  the  Turks. 

In  the  year  1760  Commodore  Byron's  powerful  fleet  entered  Gasp^  Basin  and 
captured  the  village.  The  French  frigate  La  Catharina  was  in  the  harbor,  but 
was  soon  taken  and  destroyed  by  fire.  Many  years  ago  the  Gaspisian  peninsula  was 
erected  into  a  province,  and  the  seat  of  government  was  located  at  this  town.  But 
the  number  of  inhabitants  was  not  enough  to  warrant  the  expense  of  a  vice-r^;al 
court,  and  the  peninsula  waa  reannexed  to  Quebec. 

In  leaving  Gasp^  Basin  the  steamship  passes  the  beaches  of  the  N. 
shore,  lined  with  whale-huts  and  fish-stages,  and  then  runs  to  the  S.  E. 
down  Gasp^  Bfty.  *  Cape  Gasp^  is  7^  M.  N.  of  Point  St.  Peter,  and 
fronts  the  Gulf  with  a  line  of  sandstone  cliffs  692  ft.  high.  Off  the  S.  E. 
point  there  was  formerly  a  statue-like  rock  100  ft.  high,  called  La  VieiUe 
(the  Old  Woman),  but  it  has  been  thrown  down  by  the  sea.  The  Indians 
named  this  rock  Gasepion,  whence  the  name  Gaspi,  which  is  now  applied 
to  the  great  peninsula  between  the  Bay  of  Chaleur  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  Two  leagues  beyond  Cape  Gasp^  the  steamship  passes  Cape  Rosier, 
and  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 

67.  The  Lower  St  Lawrence. 

'*  The  most  interesting  object  in  Canada  to  me  was  the  River  St.  Lawrence,  known 
fltr  and  wide,  and  for  centuries,  as  the  Great  River.  Cartier,  its  discoverer,  sailed 
up  it  as  for  as  Montreal  in  1585,  nearly  a  century  l)efore  the  coming  of  the  Pil- 
grims ;  and  I  have  seen  a  pretty  accurate  map  of  it  so  far,  containing  the  city  of 
'Hochelaga '  and  the  river  '  Saguenay,' in  Ortelius's  Theatrum  Orbis  Terrarum, 
printed  at  Antwerp  in  1575,  in  which  the  &mous  cities  of  *  Norumbega '  and  '  Or- 
sinora'  stand  on  the  rough-blocked  continent  where  New  England  is  to-day,  and 
the  fabulous  but  unfortunate  Isle  of  Demons,  and  Frislant,  and  others,  lie  off  and 
on  in  the  unfrequented  sea,  some  of  them  prowling  near  what  is  now  the  coun^e  of 
the  Cunard  steamers.  It  was  famous  in  Europe  before  the  other  rivers  of  North 
America  were  heard  of,  notwithstanding  that  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  is  said  to 
have  been  discovered  first,  and  its  stream  was  reached  by  De  Soto  not  long  after ; 
but  the  St.  Lawrence  had  attracted  settlers  to  its  cold  shores  long  before  the  Missis- 
sippi, or  even  the  Hudsor,  was  known  to  the  world.  The  first  explorers  declared 
that  the  summer  in  that  country  was  as  warm  as  France,  and  tli«y  named  one  of 
the  iwys  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  the  Bay  of  Chaleu^,  or  warmth ;  but  they 
said  notliing  about  the  winter  being  as  cold  as  Greenland.  In  the  MS.  account 
of  Cartier's  second  voyage  it  is  called  *  the  greatest  river,  without  comparison, 
that  in  known  to  have  ever  been  seen.'  The  savages  told  him  that  it  was  the 
'Chemin  du  Canada''  (the  highway  to  Canada), 'which  goes  so  far  that  no  man 
hath  ever  been  to  the  endj  that  they  had  heard.'  The  Saguenay,  one  of  its  tribu- 
taries, is  described  by  Cartier  in  1585,  and  still  more  particularly  by  Jean  AlphonFe 
in  1642,  who  adds :  '  I  think  that  this  river  cumes  from  the  sea  of  Cathay,  for  in 
,this  place  there  issues  a  strong  current,  and  there  runs  here  a  terrible  tide.'  The 
early  explorers  saw  many  whales  and  other  sea-monsters  far  up  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Chainplun,  in  his  map,  represents  a  wliale  spouting  in  the  harbor  of  Quebec,  860  M. 
from  what  may  be  called  the  mouth  of  the  river ;  and  (AarleToiz  took  his  reader  to 


CAPE  ROSIER. 


Rouuer,    247 


whole  nqnad* 
i«d  the  oihers 
»  leturned  to 
s  were  burnt 

I  Dubois  d'AT- 
his  celebrated 
deposed  from 
e  he  called  to 
5rin,  which  he 

ispi  Ba«ln  and 
le  harbor,  but 
t  peninBula  was 
his  town.  But 
of  a  vlce-r^^al 


hes  of  the  N. 
s  to  the  S.  E« 
3t.  Peter,  and 

Off  the  S.  E. 

Jled  La  Vieille 

The  Indians 

is  now  applied 
e  St.  Lawrence 
is  Cape  Rosier, 


Lawrence,  known 
(  dlccoverer.  sailed 
onilng  of  the  Pu- 
tainlng  the  city  of 
Orbis   Terrarum, 
imbega'  and  •Gr- 
and Is  to-day,  and 
■■others,  lie  off  and 
now  the  course  of 
ler  rivers  of  North 
IsslsBJppl  Is  said  to 
,tD  not  long  after  , 
t  before  the  MisbIs- 
explorers  declared 
they  named  one  or 
warmth ;  but  they 
n  the  MS.  account 
Ithout  comparison, 
ni  that  It  was  the 
BO  far  that  no  man 
IV  one  of  Its  tnbu- 
/by  Jean  Alphonfe 
a  of  Cathay,  for  in 
terrible  tide.'    The 


y 


th«  summit  of  Cape  Diamond  to  see  the '  porpoises,  white  as  fnow,*  sporting  on  ih«  f 
surfbce  of  the  harbor  of  Quebec.  In  Champlain's  day  it  was  commonly  called '  the  ; 
Great  Rirer  of  Canada.'  More  than  one  nation  has  claimed  it.  In  Ogllby's  '  Amei^ 
ica  of  1670,'  in  the  map  Novi  Belgi^  it  is  called  *  De  Groote  Kivier  ran  Niew  Ne* 
derlandt '  It  rises  near  another  fiither  of  waters,  the  Mississippi,  Issuing  firom  a 
remarkable  spring  far  up  in  the  woods,  called  Lake  Superior,  1,500  M.  in  circum- 
ference ;  and  several  other  springs  there  are  thereabouts  which  feed  it.  It  makes 
Buch  a  noise  In  its  tumbling  down  at  one  place  as  Is  heard  all  round  the  world. 
Bouchette,  the  Surrey or-Oeneral  of  the  Canadas,  calls  it  '  the  most  splendid  river 
on  the  globe ' ;  says  that  it  is  2,000  M.  long  (more  recent  geographers  make  it  4-600 
M.  longer ) ;  that  at  the  Riviere  du  Sud  it  ia  11  M.  wide ;  at  the  Paps  of  Matane,  25 ; 
at  tho  Seven  Islands,  73;  and  at  its  mouth,  from  Cape  Rosier  to  the  Mingan  Settle-^ 
ment..  in  Labrador,  98  M.  wide.  It  has  much  the  largest  estuary,  regarding  both^ 
length  and  breadth,  of  any  river  on  the  globe.  Perhaps  Charlevoix  describes  the 
St  Lawrence  truly  as  the  most  navigable  river  in  the  world.  Between  Montreal 
and  Quebec  it  averages  2  M.  wide.  The  tide  is  felt  as  for  up  as  Three  Rivers,  482 
M.,  which  is  as  far  as  from  Boston  to  Washington.  The  geographer  Guyot  ob- 
serves  that  the  Maranon  Is  3,000  M.  long,  and  gathers  its  waters  from  a  surikce  of 
l,500j000  fiquare  M. ;  that  the  Mississippi  is  also  3,000  M.  long,  but  its  basin  covers 
only  8-900,000  square  M. ;  that  the  St.  Lawrence  is  1,800  M.  long,  and  its  basin 
covers  1,000,000  square  M. ;  and  speaking  of  the  lakes,  he  adds :  '  These  vast  fresh- 
water seas,  together  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  cover  a  surface  of  nearly  100,000  square| 
M.,and  it  has  been  calculated  that  they  contain  about  one  haT of  all  the  fresh,! 
water  on  the  surface  of  our  planet.'  Pilots  say  there  are  no  sou  (dings  till  150  H. 
up  the  St  Lawrence.  McTag^art,  an  engineer,  observes  that  '  th  >  Ottawa  is  larger'.'l 
than  all  the  rivers  in  Great  Britain,  were  they  running  in  one.'  The  traveller  Grey 
writes :  '  There  is  not  perhaps  in  the  whole  extent  of  this  immense  continent  so  fine 
an  approach  to  it  as  by  the  river  St.  Lawrence.  In  the  Southern  States  you  have, 
in  general,  a  level  country  for  many  miles  inland ;  here  you  are  introduced  at  once 
into  a  majestic  scenery,  where  everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  —  mountains,  woods, 
lakes,  rivers,  precipices,  waterfalls.'  We  have  not  yet  the  data  for  a  minute  com- 
parison of  the  St.  Lawrence  with  the  South  American  rivers ;  but  it  is  obvious  that, 
taking  it  in  connection  with  its  lakes,  its  estuary,  and  its  falls,  it  easily  bears  off 
the  palm  from  all  the  rivers  on  the  globe."  (Freely  condensed  firom  Thobbav's 
A  Yankee  in  Canada.) 


^vir^-v 


"  Bien  loin  de  ks  ftourbii,  sons  Tombre  dei 
platanes, 
L'Arabe  au  blanciM  burnous  qui  suit  let 
caraTonei 
Bur  lei  sables  errant 
D6convre  moina  joyeux  aon  oasia  hnmide. 
Que  lea  Canadlena  sous  la  saison  torride 
Leur  fleuve  Samt-Lauront 


A  nous  aes  champs  d'azur  et  ses  f  ratehes 

retraitea,  . 

Lea  nota  couronn^a  de  moufantea  aigrettes. 

Lea  monts  audacieux. 
Lea  ardmea  piquants  que  la  mer  y  depose. 
£t  aon  grand  horizon  oil  voire  ceil  ae  repoae 

Comme  1  £toUe  aux  cieux."* 

L.  J.  G.  FislT. 


V 


terriDw  vi""-      -- 

in  the  St.  Lawrence. 

S  of  Quebec,  860  M. 

Utookhi»n»d«'* 


Totgoura  fldele  &  te  servir ; 
Et  dans  tea  bras,  mere  cherie, 
Peut  rendre  aon  dernier  aoupir. 

"  Balut,  6  del  de  ma  patrie  I 
Solut,  6  noble  Saint-Laurent  I 
Ton  nom  dans  mon  &me  attendrte 
Rfepand  un  parf  um  enivrant. 
O  Canada,  fila  de  la  France, 
Qui  to  couvrit  de  ses  bienfaits, 
Toi,  notre  amour,  notre  esperance, 
Qui  pourra  t'oubuer  jamais  7  " 

O.  Cztuxzim. 
Cape  Rosier,  "the  Scylla of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  6  M.  beyond  Gape 
Gaspd,  and  is  the  S.  portal  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  whose  mouth  at 
this  point  is  96  M.  wide.    At  the  end  of  the  cape  is  a  stone  h'ghthouse 
tower,  112  ft.  high,  with  a  fixed  light  (visible  16  M.)  and  a  fog-horn. 

The  hamlets  of  Grand  Grdve,  Griffin's  Cove,  and  Gape  Rosier 
are  in  this  vicinity,  and  are  inhabited  by  French  people,  who  are  de- 


**  Sur  ces  bords  enchant§8,  notre  mire,  la 
France, 
A  laissS  de  sa  gloire  un  immortal  aillon, 
Precipitant  ses  flots  vera  I'ocean  immense, 
Le  noble  Saint-Laurent  redit  encor  son 
nom. 

•*  Salut,  6  ma  belle  patrie  I 
Salut,  6  bords  du  Saint-Laurent 
Terre  que  Tetranger  envie, 
£t  qu'ii  regrette  en  la  quittant. 
Heureux  qui  peut  paaaer  aa  vie. 


! 


248    Jtouu  er. 


CAPE  MAODELAINE. 


pendent  on  the  fishing-establishment  of  William  Hjman  &  Sons,  of 
6asp4. 

'*  The  coast  between  Cape  Rosier  and  Cape  Ghatte  is  high  and  bold,  free 
fWnn  dangers,  and  destitute  of  harbors,*'  and  is  lined  with  a  majestic  wall 
'of  mountains  composed  of  slate  and  graywacke.  They  are  covered  with 
forests,  and  afford  successions  of  noble  views,  sometimes  of  amphithe- 
atrical  coves,  sometimes  of  distant  vistas  of  blue  peaks  up  the  long  gorges 
of  the  rivers. 

").     **  How  can  it  be  that  men  inhabit  this  harsh,  arid,  rough,  almost  hateftil  country, 

which  extends  from  Cape  Chatte  to  the  Gasp^J  Basin  ?    One  can  scarcely  imagine. 

'    Tet,  as  you  see,  here  and  there  appear  parcels  of  tilled  laud,  houses  scattered  i^ong 

the  banks,  and  little  churches  at  Tarious  points." 

\     "  The  peninsula  of  Gasp6,  the  land's  end  of  Canada  towards  the  E. ,  firom  its  geo- 

;  logical  formation  of  shale  and  limestone,  presenting  their  upturned  edges  tpwacd 

i  thftses  and  dipping  inland,  forms  long  rangv<>s  of  b^tling  cliffs  running  down  to  a 

'  lumrbw  strip  of  beach,  and  affording  no  restiug-place  even  to  the  fishermen,  except 

where  they  have  been  cut  down  by  streams,  and  present  little  coves  and  bays  open- 

ing  back  into  deep  glens,  affording  a  view  of  great  rolling  wooded  ridges  that  stand 

tank  after  rank  beliind  the  great  sea-cliff,  though  with  many  fine  valleys  between." 

7  M.  N.  W.  of  Cape  Hosier  the  settlement  at  Griffin* s  Cove  is  passed;  aud 

5  M.  farther  on  is  Fox  River  (Cloridorme),  a  settlement  of  500  persons,  with 

one  of  the  Isle-of-Jersey  fishing-establi>hments,  a  large  Catholic  church, 

and  a  court-house.    The  cod  and  mackerel  fisheries  are  followed  in  the 

^adjacent  waters,  and  large  American  fleets  are  often  seen  off  the  port. 

j^he  grand  highway  from  Quebec  ends  here,  but  a  rugged  road  runs  down 

'^o  Gasp6  in  17  M.    The  inhabitants  are  nearly  all  French.    16  M.  farther 

W.  is  the  haven  called  Great  Pond,  24  M.  beyond  which  is  Cape  Magde- 

laine  (red-and-white  revolving  light,  visible  15  -  20  M. )  at  the  mouth  of  the 

Biver  Magdelaine,  the  home  of  some  of  the  wildest  legends  of  this  region. 


/^ 


"  Where  is  the  Canadian  sailor,  fkmiliar  with  this  coast,  who  has  not  heard  of  the 
plaintive  sounds  and  doleful  cries  uttered  by  the  BraiUard  de  la  Magdelaine  ? 
Where  would  you  find  a  native  seaman  who  would  consent  to  spend  a  few  days  by 
himself  in  this  locality ,  wherein  :i  troubled  spirit  seeks  to  make  known  the  torments 
it  endures?  Is  it  the  soul  of  a  shipwrecked  mariner  asking  for  Christian  burial  for 
its  bonoi,  or  imploring  the  prayers  of  the  church  for  its  repose  ?  Is  it  the  voice  of 
the  murderer  condemned  to  expiate  his  crimes  on  the  very  spot  which  witnessed 
its  commission  ?  .  .  .  .  For  it  is  well  known  that  Gaspd  wreckers  have  not  always 
contented  themselves  with  robbery  and  pillage,  but  have  sometimes  sought  conceal- 
ment and  impunity  by  making  away  with  victims,  —  convinced  that  the  tomb  is 
silent  and  reveals  not  its  secrets."  The  Abbd  Casgrain  attributes  these  weird 
sounds  to  the  fate  of  a  priest  who  refused  to  christen  a  child  who  afterwards  was 
lost  by  dying  unbaptized.  The  conscience-stricken  priest  faded  away  to  a  skeleton, 
and  the  sound  of  bis  moaning  has  ever  since  been  heard  off  these  dark  shores.  An- 
other legend  tells  that  a  terrible  shipwreck  occurred  at  this  point,  and  that  the  only 
soul  that  reached  the  shore  was  a  baby  boy,  who  lay  wailing  on  the  beach  through- 
out the  stormy  night.  "  Where  La  Magdelaine  runs  into  the  Gulf,  horizontal  layers 
of  limestone,  firetted  i:way  all  around  their  base  by  the  action  of  the  tides  and 
waves,  assume  the  most  .'antastic  shapes,  —  here  representing  ruins  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, there  forming  hollow  caverns  into  whkh  the  surf  rolling  produces  a  moan- 
I  ing  sound,  like  an  unquiet  spirit  seeking  repose."  The  strange  wailing  which  is 
I  hrard  at  certain  seasons  along  this  shore  is  otherwise  referred  to  the  rush  of  the 
w  wind  throni^  the  pine-trees  <m  the  cape,  whose  trunks  grate  together  with  a  harsh 
^  ereaking. 


i^ 


OAFB  OHATTB. 


MmOe  67.     ^49 


f 


Sons,  of 

bold,  free 
jestic  wall 
irered  with 
atnpliitho- 
ong  gorges 


(ftal  country, 
;cly  imagine, 
ittered  along 

from  lt«  geo- 
edges  tp^Bfd 
)g  down  to  a 
irmen,  except 
id  bays  open- 
es  that  Btand 
lys  between." 

passed;  aal 
jersons,  "with 
lolic  church, 
lowed  in  the 
ofif  the  port. 
Id  runs  down 
16  M.  farther 
lape  Magde- 
mouth  of  the 
f  this  region. 

lot  heard  of  the 
a  Magdelaine? 
I  a  few  days  by 
n  the  tonnents 
stian  burial  for 
1  it  the  Toice  of 
fhich  witnessed 
lave  not  always 
sought  conceal- 
lat  the  tomb  is 
(es  these  weird 
afterwards  was 
ly  to  a  skeleton, 
irk  shores.    An- 
nd  that  the  only 
Ijeach  through- 
lorizontal  layers 
,f  the  tides  and 
of  Gothic  archi- 
odnces  a  moan- 
i^jdling  which  Ja 
the  rush  of  the 
let  with  »  harsh 


Phwtm  PoSiU  is  12  M.  firom  Cape  Magdelaine,  and  is  near  the  remote 
hamlet  of  Mont  Louis.  Lines  of  wild  cliffs  front  the  shore  for  the  next  28 
M.,  to  Cape  St.  Anne,  near  which  is  the  French  Catholic  village  of  8t, 
Anne  de*  Mont$^  which  has  250  inhabitants  and  a  consulate  of  Italy.  The  " 
adjacent  waters  abound  in  mackerel,  cod,  halibut,  and  herring,  and  great 
quantities  of  salmon  and  trout  are  caught  in  the  River  St.  Anne.  The 
stately  peaks  of  the  *  St.  Anne  Mountaini  are  seen  on  the  S.,  com- 
mencing 12  M.  S.  W.  of  Cape  St.  Anne  and  running  in  a  S.  W.  course  for 
40  M.,  nearly  parallel  with  the  tiv^t  and  20-25  M.  inland.  These  moun- 
tains are  the  most  lofty  in  Canada,  and  are  visible  for  80-90  M.  at  sea, 
in  clear  weather.  The  chief  peak  is  14  M.  from  Cape  Chatte,  and  is 
3,973  ft.  high.  ' 

**  All  those  who  come  to  New  France  know  well  enough  the  mountains  of  Notr*  ^ 
Dame,  because  the  pilots  and  sailors  being  arrived  at  that  part  of  the  great  riyeri' 
which  is  opposite  to  those  high  mountains,  baptiae  ordinarily  ibr  sport  the  new| 
passengers,  if  they  do  not  turn  aside  by  some  present  the  inundation  of  this  iMtptiun  i 
which  is  made  to  flow  plentifully  on  their  lieads."   (Lalexant,  1648.)  > 

Cape  Chatte  is  15  M.  N.  W.  of  Cape  St.  Anne,  and  sustains  a  white 
flashing  light  which  is  visible  for  18  M. 

Gape  Chatte  was  named  in  honor  of  the  ofBcer  who  sent  out  the  expedition  of 
1603,  under  Pontgrav^  and  Lescarbot.  His  style  was  Eymard  de  Qhaste,  Knight 
of  Malta,  Commander  of  Lormetan,  Grand  Master  of  the  Order  of  St.  Lasarus,  and 
Governor  of  Dieppe. 

Somewhere  in  this  broad  reach  of  the  river  occurred  the  chivalrous  naval  battle 
between  the  English  war-vessel  Abigail  and  the  French  ship  of  Emery  de  Caen  (son 
of  Lord  de  la  Motte).  The  Abigail  was  commanded  by  Capt.  Kirke,  and  was  sailing^ 
against  Tadousac,  when  she  was  attacked  (June,  1629)  by  De  Caen.  A  running  fight 
of  several  hours  ensued,  until  a  fortunate  cannon-shot  from  the  Abigail  cut  sway 
a  mast  on  the  French  vessel  and  compelled  her  to  surrender.  The  loss  on  each 
ship  was  considerable. 

The  reach  of  the  St.  Lawrence  next  entered  is  about  86  M.  wide,  and 
on  the  N.  shore  is  Point  de  Monts  (see  page  288).    It  is  83  M.  from  Cape 
Chatte  to  Matane,  in  which  the  steamer  passes  the  hamlets  of  Dalibaire 
and  St.  Felicity.    In  1688  the  Sieur  Riverin  established  a  sedentary  fish-  / 
ery  at  Matane,  devoted  to  the  pursuit  of  codfish  and  whales.    Sometimes 
as  many  as  50  whales  were  seen  at  one  time  from  the  shore.    This  branch  * 
of  the  fisheries  has  now  greatly  declined.    Matane  is  a  village  of  800  in- 
habitants, devoted  to  farming  and  lumbering,  and  is  visited  by  Canadian 
citizens  on  account  of  the  facilities  for  sea-bathing  on  the  fine  sandy 
heach.    There  is  also  good  fishing  for  trout  and  salmon  on  the  Matane   , 
Kiver.    The  remarkable  peaks  called  the  (l^aps  of  Matane  are  to  the  S.W.,  / 
in  the  great  Gasp6sian  wilderness.    In  clear  weather,  when  a  few  miles  E. 
of  Matane,  and  well  out  in  the  river,  Mt.  Commis  may  be  seen,  40  M. 
distant,  S.  W.  by  W.  J  W.,  like  an  island  on  the  remote  horizon. 

The  shore  is  now  low,  rocky,  and  wooded,  and  runs  S.  W.  22  M.  to- 
Petit  MetiSf  which  was  populated  with  Scottish  families  by  its  seigneur. 
4  M.  from  this  point  is  the  station  of  St.  Octave^  on  the  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way.   M^tii  is  a  little  way  W.,  and  is  occupied  by  260  French  Catholics 
11*  I 


250     JlotOe  67, 


BIMOUSKt 


und  Scotch  Presbyterians.  It  has  a  long  gorerament  wharf ;  and  the 
people  are  engaged  also  in  the  pursuit  of  black  whales,  which  are  sought 
by  schooners  equipped  with  harpoons,  lances,  etc.  N.  of  M^tis,  across 
the  river,  is  the  great  peninsula  of  Manicouagan,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
rivers  Manicouagan  and  Outarde,  abounding  in  cascades. 

The  steamship  comes  to  off  Father  Point,  where  there  is  a  lighthouse 
and  telegraph-station  (for  news  of  the  shipping),  and  a  hamlet  of  100  in- 
habitants. Here  the  outward-bound  vessels  discharge  their  pilots.  Near 
this  place  are  the  hamlets  of  St.  Luce  and  St.  Donat,  and  at  St.  Flavie, 
15  M.  N.  E.,  the  Intercolonial  Railway  reaches  the  St.  Lawrence  (see  page 
70).  A  few  miles  S.  E.  is  Mt.  Camille,  which  is  2,086  ft.  high.  Father 
Point  (Potn<e  au  Pert)  was  so  named  because  th?  priest  Henri  Nouvel 
wintered  there  in  1663.  Canada  geese,  ducks,  and  brant  are  killed  here 
in  great  numbers  during  the  long  easterly  storms. 
St.  Oermain  de  Bimonski  (Hotel  St.  Laurent ;  Rimouahi  Hotel)  is  6  M. 

V  from  Father  Ppint,  and  is  an  incorporated  city,  an  important  station  on 
the  Intercolonial  Railway,  and  the  capital  of  Rimouski  County  and  of  a 

(^  Roman-Catholic  diocese.   It  has  1,200-1,500  inhabitants,  with  a  handsome 
cathedral,  a  Catholic  college,  convent,  episcopal  palace,  court-house,  and 

,  other  public  buildings.    The  Canadian  government  has  built  a  large  and 
substantial  wharf  out  to  the  deep  channel,  and  a  prosperous  future  is  ex- 

'  pected  for  the  young  city.    Many  summer  visitors  come  to  this  place, 
attracted  by  its  cool  air  and  fine  scenery. 

Rimouski  was  founded  in  1688,  and  in  1701  a  missionary  was  sent  here,  who 

'^  founded  a  parish  which  has  now  grown  into  a  strong  bishopric.    "  Rimouski,  the 

V  future  metropolis  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,  a  little  city  fUll  of  promise  and  fur- 

<  rowed  already  by  the  rails  of  the  Intercolonial,  will  have  its  harbor  of  refUgo  where 

the  great  ocean-steamers  will  stop  in  passing,  and  will  attract  all  the  commerce  of 

'  the  Immense  region  of  the  Metapedia,  the  future  granary  of  our  country."    The 

Rimouski  River  ^s  famous  for  its  abundance  of  trout. 

Barnab y  Island  is  low  and  wooded,  and  8  M.  long,  sheltering  the  harbor  of 
Rimouski.  It  was  known  by  its  present  name  in  1629,  when  the  fleet  of  the  Kirkes 
assembled  here.  From  1723  to  1767  it  was  the  home  of  a  pious  French  hermit,  who 
avoided  women  and  passed  most  of  his  time  in  his  oratory.  Some  say  that  he  was 
wrecked  o£F  these  shores,  and  vowed  to  Heaven  to  abide  here  if  he  was  saved  ;  others, 
that  he  had  been  diHappointed  in  love.  In  his  last  hours  he  was  visited  by  people 
from  Rimouski,  who  found  him  dying,  with  hLs  faithful  dog  licking  tils  chilling 
fitce. 

Bic  Island  was  formerly  called  Le  Pie^  but  was  named  St.  Jean  by  Cartier, 
who  entered  its  harbor  in  1535,  on  the  annivdrsary  of  the  decapitation  of  St.  John. 
It  was  included  in  the  scheme  of  D'Avaugonr  and  Vauban  (in  the  17th  century)  for 
the  defence  of  Canada,  and  was  intended  to  have  been  made  an  impregnable  nari- 
time  fortress,  sheltering  a  harbor  of  refuge  for  the  French  navy.  But  this  Mont  St. 
Michel  of  the  New  World  never  received  its  ramparts  and  artillery.  The  place  was 
taken  by  Wolfe's  British  fleet  of  200  ships,  June  18, 1759 ;  and  when  the  Trent  aflair 
threatened  to  involve  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain  in  war,  in  1861,  British 
troops  were  landed  at  Bic,  on  the  main  shore,  from  the  ocean-steamship  Persia, 
and  were  carried  hence  in  sleighs  to  Riviere  du  Ix)up.  Near  this  point  is  U Islet 
aM  iifa«8acr(?,  where,  according  to  tradition,  200  Micmac  Indians  were  once  sur- 
prirad  at  night  by  the  Iroquois,  while  slumbering  in  a  cavern.  The  vengeAil  enemy 
silently  filled  the  cave's  mouth  with  dry  wood  and  then  set  it  on  fire,  shooting  the 
unfortunate  Micmacs  as  they  leaped  through  thv)  flames.  196  of  the  latter  were 
slain,  and  it  is  claimed  tliat  tlieir  bones  strewed  the  islet  until  within  a  few  years. 


TROIS  PISTOLES. 


Jtoute  67,     251 


rf ;  and  the 
h  are  soaght 
l^tis,  acrosA 
nouth  of  the 

i  a  lighthouse 
let  of  100  in- 
pilots.  Nenr 
,t  Bt.  Flavie, 
ince  (see  page 
high.  Father 
Henri  Nouvel 
re  killed  here 

Hotel)  is  6  M. 
ant  station  on 
)unty  and  of  a 
ith  a  handsome 
luft-house,  and 
lit  a  large  and 
18  future  is  ex- 
)  to  this  place, 

s  sent  here,  who 
♦'  RimouBki,  the 
promise  and  fur- 
'  of  refuge  where 
the  commerce  of 
country."    The 

Ing  the  harbor  of 
leet  of  the  Kirkes 
ench  hermit,  who 
e  say  that  he  was 
ras  saved ;  others, 
visited  by  people 
]iing  bis  chilling 

,  Jean  by  Cartier, 
ition  of  St.  John. 
17  th  century)  for 
mpregnable  man- 
But  this  Mont  St. 
y.    The  place  was 
an  the  Trent  affair 
T,  in  1861,  British 
steamship  /1^,7*«» 
,  point  is  L'Islet 
as  were  once  sur- 
le  vengefhl  enemy 
Are,  shooting  the 
of  the  latter  were 
a  few  years. 


8te.-0<eile  dn  Bio  (two  hoarding-ho  ses)  is  a  prosperous  French  tQ- 
lage  of  600  inhabitants,  with  u  good  harbor  and  a  large  and  ugly  church. 
It  is  9  M.  from  Rimouski,  and  is  surrounded  by  fine  scenery.  The  Bay 
of  Bic  is  'Marge  enough  to  be  majestic,  small  enough  to  be  overlooked  in 
one  glance ;  a  shore  cut  into  deep  notches,  broken  with  flats,  capes,  and 
beaches;  a  background  of  mountains  hewn  prodigally  from  the  world*8 
material,  like  all  the  landscapes  of  our  Canada."  The  Intercolonial  Rail- 
way was  carried  through  this  region  at  a  vast  expense,  and  sweeps  around 
the  flank  of  the  mountain,  200  ft.  above  the  village,  afibrding  beautiful 
views.  Wonderful  mirages  are  seen  off  this  port,  and  out  towards  Point 
de  Monts.  The  highlands  immediately  over  Bic  are  nearly  1,800  ft.  high; 
and  the  bay  receives  two  rivers,  which  descend  in  cascades  and  rapids 
from  the  neighboring  gorges.  As  the  steamship  passes  the  lighthouse  on 
Biquette  Idancl,  the  remarkable  and  varied  peaks  of  the  mountains  to  the 
S.  will  attract  the  attention  by  their  fantastic  irregularity.  Between  Bic 
and  Trois  Pistoles,  but  not  visible  from  the  river,  are  the  new  French  vil- 
lages of  St.  Fabien,  among  the  mountains;  St.  Matthieu,  with  its  great 
quarries  of  red  stone  for  the  Intercolonial  Railway ;  and  St.  Simon,  near  a 
pretty  highland  lake. 

The  rocky  islets  of  Rosade  are  2  M.  off  the  shore  of  Notre  Dame  des  Anges,  and  are 
decorated  with  a  large  cross,  in  memory  of  a  marvellous  escape.  Some  §)  years  ago 
the  St.  Lawrence  froze  for  6  M.  out  fW>m  the  parish,  and  many  hundreds  of  seals 
were  discovered  on  the  ice.  The  people  gathered  and  went  out  to  slay  these  strange 
visitors,  but  the  ice  suddenly  broke  adrift  and  was  whirled  away  down  the  stream. 
There  appeared  no  hope  of  escape  for  the  40  men  on  the  outer  floes,  which  were 
now  ^  M-  fW>m  the  shore.  Their  families  and  friends  bade  them  an  eternal  farewell, 
and  the  village  priests,  standing  at  the  water's  edge,  gave  them  final  absolution  ia 
preparation  for  the  approaching  catastrophe.  But  even  while  they  were  kneeling 
on  the  ice,  a  bold  mariner  launched  a  tiny  skiff  from  the  shore  and  crossed  the 
widening  belt  of  tumultuous  waters,  touched  the  crumbling  edges  of  the  floes,  and, 
after  many  trips  back  and  forth,  succeeded  in  landing  every  one  of  the  men  upon 
the  isle  of  Rosade.  Thence  they  passed  easily  to  the  mainland,  and  afterwuds 
erected  a  cross  on  Rosade,  as  a  token  of  their  gratitude. 

Trois  Pistoles  (two  good  hotels)  is  a  thriving  village  of  650  inhab- 
itants, situated  inside  of  Basque  Island  (5  M.  from  the  Rosades),  and  near 
valuable  deposits  of  limestone.  There  are  two  Catholic  churches  here, 
whose  construction  involved  a  litigious  contest  which  is  still  remembered 
in  Lower  Canada.  The  beauty  of  the  marine  scenery  in  this  vicinity  has 
induced  several  Quebec  gentlemen  to  build  summer  cottages  here. 

There  is  a  well-founded  tradition  that  in  the  year  1700  a  traveller  rode  up  to  the 
bank  of  the  then  unsettled  and  unnamed  river  and  asked  the  Norman  fisherman, 
who  was  tending  his  nets  near  his  rude  hut,  what  he  would  charge  to  ferry  him 
across.  "  Trois  pistoles  "  (three  ten-franc  pieces),  said  the  fisher.  "  What  is  the 
name  of  this  river  ?  "  asked  the  traveller.  "  It  has  no  name ;  it  will  be  baptized  at 
a  later  day."  "  Well,  then,"  said  the  traveller,  "  name  it  2Voj«  Pistoles.^^  The 
river  is  now  famous  for  its  fine  trout-fishing. 

"  That  portion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  extending  between  the  Saguenay  River  and 
Ooose  Island  is  al>out  20  M.  wide.  The  spring  tides  rise  and  fall  a  distance  of  18  ft. 
The  water  is  salt,  but  clear  and  cold,  and  the  channel  very  deep.  Here  may  be  seen 
abundantly  the  black  seal,  the  white  porpoise,  and  the  black  whale."  The  white 
porpoise  yields  an  oil  of  the  best  quality ,  and  its  skin  makes  good  leather. 


252    nouuey. 


KAMOURASKA. 


M'! 


The  Onlf-Portt  steamship  does  not  stop  between  Father  Point  and 
QnebeCf  bat  the  villages  described  in  this  itinerary  may  be  visited  fVom 
Quebec;  those  on  the  S.  shore  by  railway,  and  St  PtrnVs  Bay,  Murray 
Bay,  Riviire  da  Loap,  and  Kimouski  by  river-steamers.  The  N.  shore 
finom  Gape  Tourmente  to  the  Saguenay  is  described  in  Ronte  72. 

The  vessel  steams  np  by  Green  Island,  which  is  6  -  7  M.  long,  and  shel- 
ters the  large  manafacturing  village  of  Isle  Verte,  whence  fine  butter  is 
sent  to  Quebec.  On  the  r.  is  Bed  Island,  with  its  tall  stone  lighthonse,  off 
which  is  a  lightship.  Caoonna  and  Riviere  du  Loup  (see  Ronte  72)  aie 
next  passed,  on  the  1.,  and  the  vessel  runs  W.  with  the  three  steep  islets 
called  the  Brandy  Pott  (Pots-it-feau^e^e)  on  the  r.  The  S.  islet  bears 
a  fixed  light;  the  N.  islet  is  150  ft.  high,  of  vesiculated  conglomerate  in 
which  almond-shaped  bits  of  quartz  are  imbedded.  In  war-time  merchant- 
ships  wait  off  the  Brandy  Pots  for  their  convoying  frigates.  N.  of  these 
islets  is  Hare  Island,  which  is  about  10  M.  long,  and  has  extensive  salt 
marshes,  on  which  herds  of  cattle  are  kept.  On  the  1.  are  now  seen  the 
five  remarkabl^  islets  called  The  Pilgrims,  about  li  M.  from  the  S.  shore 
and  4i  M.  in  aggregate  length.  The  Long  Pilgrim  is  800  ft.  high  and  par- 
tially wooded,  and  is  marked  by  a  lighthouse,  180  ft.  above  the  river. 
The  Kamouraska  Islands  are  6  M.  farther  W.,  and  over  them  is  seen  the 
pretty  village  of  Kamouraska  {Albion  Hotel),  with  its  great  Church  of 
St.  Loais  and  Congregational  Convent.  The  river-water  at  this  point  is  as 
salt  as  the  sea,  and  the  village  was  the  chief  summer  resort  on  the  St. 
Lawrence  before  Cacouna  arose. 

"  Who  does  not  know  Kamouraska?  Who  does  not  know  that  it  is  a  oharmlng 
vUlage,  bright  and  picturesque,  bathing  its  feet  in  the  crystal  of  the  waters  of  the 
riTer  like  a  naiad,  and  coquettisniy  yiewing  the  reflections  of  its  two  long  ranges  of 
white  houses, ....  so  near  the  river  that  fh)m  all  the  windows  the  great  waves  may 
be  contemplated  and  their  grand  voices  heard  ?  On  all  sides,  except  towards  the  S., 
the  horison  extends  as  flir  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and  is  only  bounded  by  the  vast  blue 
curtidn  of  the  Laurentides.  At  the  N.  E.  the  eye  rests  on  a  group  of  verdant  isles, 
like  a  handful  of  emeralds  dropped  by  the  angel  of  the  sea.  ....  These  isles  are  the 
ftvorite  resort  of  the  strangers  who  visit  Kamouraska.  There  they  fish,  or  bathe, 
or  seek  other  amusements.  Le  pique-nigue  is  much  in  vogue  there,  and  the  truest 
joys  are  felt." 

St.  Paschal  (700  inhabitants)  is  5  M.  from  Kamouraska,  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway. 

"  Bel  endroit,  Saint-Paschal,  par  sa  croupe  onduleuse, 
Ses  coUteaux,  sed  yallons,  sa  route  sinueuse ! 
C'est  la  Suisse  ou  I'Auvergne  avec  leurs  gals  chalets, 
Leurs  monts,  leurs  pris  en  pente  et  leurs  jardins  coquets." 

Beyond  Kamouraska  the  steamer  passes  Cape  Diable,  and  on  the  N. 
shore,  22  M.  distant,  are  the  bold  mountains  about  Murray  Bay  (see 
Route  72).  On  the  level  plains  to  the  S.  is  seen  the  tall  Church  of  St. 
Denis,  with  its  attendant  village;  and  beyond  Point  Orignaux  is  the  vil- 
lage of  lUviire  Quelle,  famous  for  its  porpoise-fisheries.  Near  this  point 
is  the  quaint  Casgrain  manor-house,  now  over  a  century  old. 

This  parish  is  named  for  Madam  Honel,  wife  of  ComptrolIer>Qeneral  Honel,  who 
was  eaptuxed  hen  by  Indians  in  the  17th  century.    Near  the  beaeh  is  a  rock  which 


ST.  ANNE  DE  LA  POOATlfolE.     Rovit  07.      253 


Point  aad 
visited  firom 
fay,  Murray 
he  N.  shore 
J2. 

ng,  and  shel- 
ine  butter  is 
i;hthonse,  off 
Route  72)  are 
9  steep  islets 
S.  islet  bears 
iglomerate  in 
ne  merchant- 
.    N.  of  these 
Bxtensive  salt 
now  seen  the 
n  the  S.  shore 
high  and  par- 
ove  the  river, 
m  is  seen  the 
■at  Church  of 
;his  point  is  as 
)rt  on  the  St. 

it  is  a  ehanning 
le  waters  of  the 
long  ranges  of 
teat  waves  may 
„  towards  the  S., 
by  the  vast  blue 
)f  Terdant  isles, 
tese  isles  are  the 
f  fish,  or  bathe, 
),  and  the  truest 

le  Grand  Trunk 


luets." 

and  on  the  N. 

[rray  Bay  (see 

Church  of  St. 

laux  is  the  vil- 

fear  this  point 

Leral  Houel,  who 
L  is  a  rock  which 


bears  the  pldn  Impms  of  thr  mow-sLoes,  and  fbraierlr  had  the  marks  of  boman 
feet  and  hands.  In  1(00  the  piiest  of  Kiviire  Quelle  led  his  parivbionen,  and  drove 
back  the  New-Englanden  of  Sir  William  PfaJpps's  fleet.  Back  among  the  hilli  ai« 
the  hamlets  of  St.  Onisinu  and  St.  Faeome. 

8t.  Anne  de  la  Fooatidre  (two  hotels)  is  a  large  and  prosperous  town, 
72  M.  below  Quebec,  with  8,000  inhabitants,  a  weekly  paper  {La  Gazette 
des  Campagnet),  and  a  convent.  "Nature  has  given  to  St.  Anne  charm- 
ing shores,  laden  with  foliage  and  with  melody,  ravishing  points  of  view, 
and  verdant  thickets,  fitted  for  places  of  meditation."  St.  Anne's  CoUegt 
is  a  stately  pile  of  buildings  with  pleasant  surroundings  and  a  sumptuous, 
chapel.  It  has  80  professors  (ecclesiastics)  and  230  students,  and  is  main- 
tained in  a  high  state  of  efficiency.  The  parks  cover  several  acres,  and 
the  museum  is  well  supplied.  St.  Anne's  Agricultural  School  and  Model- 
Farm  is  connected  with  the  college,  and  has  5  professors  (zootechny,  rural 
law,  etc.).  The  view  from  the  dome  of  the  college  is  of  great  extent  and 
beauty. 

As  the  steamer  passes  St.  Anne  the  frowning  mass  of  Mt  ffboulements 
is  seen  on  the  N.  shore.  A  few  miles  beyond  St.  Anne  the  hamlet  of  St, 
Roch-de»-Aulna%es  is  passed,  on  the  1.,  and  still  farther  to  the  W.  is  S<. 
Jean-Port-JoK,  a  pretty  little  village  about  which  is  laid  the  scene  of 
De  Gasp^'s  popular  romance,  "  Les  Anciens  Canadiens.'*  The  Isle  aux 
Coudres  is  far  away  towards  the  N.  shore.  The  course  is  laid  in  by  the 
islet  called  the  Stone  Pillar ^  on  which  there  is  a  lighthouse,  and  1^  M. 
farther  W.  is  the  insulated  rock  of  the  Wood  Pillar.  The  large  and  pros- 
perous village  of  L'Islet  (1,000  inhabitants)  is  seen  on  the  1.  Goose  Island 
is  passed  on  the  r.,  and  is  connected  with  Crane  Island  {Vlsle  aux  Grues) 
by  a  long  alluvial  meadow,  which  produces  rich  hay,  the  total  length 
being  11  M.  Fine  sporting  is  enjoyed  here  in  the  spring  and  autumn, 
when  great  flocks  of  snipe,  plover,  and  wild  geese  visit  these  shores  for  a 
breeding-ploce.  There  is  a  settlement  of  about  150  persons  on  Crane 
Island,  whence  are  obtained  noble  views  of  Cape  Tourmente. 

During  the  French  regime  these  islands  {Les  Isles  de  Ste. 'Marguerite)  were  erected 
into  a  seigniory  and  granted  to  an  officer  of  France.  He  built  a  massive  stone  house 
on  Crane  Island,  and  was  afterwards  kept  there,  in  rigorous  captivity,  by  Biadame 
de  Oranville.  She  claimed  that  she  was  his  sister,  and  that  he  was  insane ;  but  this 
report  was  doubted  by  the  people  of  the  S.  shore,  and  the  Island  was  regarded  with 
dread.    She  kept  him  in  close  durance  for  many  years,  until  at  last  he  died. 

Beyond  the  S.  shore  village  of  Cap  St.  Ignace  (400  inhabitants)  the 
steamer  passes  St.  Thomas,  the  capital  of  Montmagny  County.  This  town 
has  1,650  inhabitants,  and  carries  on  a  large  local  trade.  The  College 
Montmagny  is  located  here,  and  there  is  also  a  convent  and  a  large  and 
conspicuous  church.  The  broad  white  band  of  a  cascade  is  seen  at  the 
foot  of  the  cove,  where  the  Riviere  du  Sud  falls  80  ft.  On  the  r.,  beyond 
St.  Thomas,  is  seen  a  cluster  of  picturesque  islets,  over  which  the  massive 
Cape  Tourmente  frowns. 


254    Route  er. 


GBOSSE  ISLE. 


i 


>      "At  length  they  spy  hoge  TouniMnte,  ralI«n4noirad, 
Bathe  hia  bald  forehet^  in  a  passing  cloud ; 
The  Titan  of  ttie  lofty  capes  that  gleam 
In  long  succession  down  the  mighty  stream ; 
When,  lo !  Orleans  emerges  to  the  sight, 
And  woods  and  meadows  float  in  liquid  light ; 
Rude  Nature  doffs  her  savage  mountain  (&ess, 
And  all  her  sternness  melts  to  loveliness. 
On  either  hand  stretch  fields  of  richest  green, 
With  glittering  village  spires  and  groves  between^ 
And  snow-white  cots  adorn  the  fertile  plain." 

OrOBse  Isle  formerly  appertained  to  the  Ursulines,  and  is  2^  M.  long. 
On  its  graywacke  ledges  is  the  great  Quarantine  of  Canada,  where  emi- 
grant-ships are  detained  until  thoroughly  inspected  and  purified.  The 
island  is  a  vast  tomb,  so  many  have  been  the  emigrants  who  have  reached 
these  shores  only  to  die,  poisoned  in  the  filthy  and  crowded  ships,  poorly 
fed  and  rarely  ministered  unto.  The  Quarantine-station  is  occupied  by 
medical  and  police  forces,  and  is  under  a  rigid  code  of  rules. 

The  next  town  is  Berthier^  an  ancient  French  parish  of  400  inhabitants, 
W.  of  which  is  Bellechasse  Island,  composed  of  high,  steep,  and  bare  gray- 
wacke rocks.  On  the  N.  are  Reaux  Island  (150  ft.  high)  and  Madame 
Island,  both  of  which  are  covered  with  trees.  St.  Valier  is  beyond  Belle- 
chasse, and  is  a  place  of  200  inhabitants,  near  which  large  deposits  of  bog 
iron-ore  have  been  found.  The  Isle  of  Orleans  (see  Route  71)  is  now 
approached,  on  the  r.,  and  over  it  is  seen  tbe  peak  of  Mt.  St.  Anne. 
Nearly  opposite  St.  John  (on  the  Orleans  shore)  is  St.  Michel,  a  lumber- 
working  town  of  700  inhabitants,  in  whose  spacious  church  are  some 
paintings  for  which  a  high  value  Js  claimed:  St.  Clara,  by  Murillo{f)  ; 
St.  Jerome,  Boucher ;  the  Crucifixion,  Romanelli ;  the  Death  of  the  Vir- 
gin, Gouty ;  St.  Bruno,  Philippe  de  Champagne ;  the  Flagellation,  Chally. 
6  M.  beyond  St.  Michel  is  Beaumont,  a  village  of  600  inhabitants,  oppo- 
site Patrick's  Hole,  on  the  Orleans  shore.  The  settlements  now  grow 
thicker  on  either  shore,  and  in  about  6  M.  the  steamship  passes  the  W. 
end  of  the  island  of  Orleans,  and  opens  the  grandest  **  view  on  the  route. 
On  the  r.  is  the  majestic  Montmorenci  Fall,  on  the  1.  the  rugged  heights 
of  Point  Levi  and  St.  Joseph,  and  in  front  the  stately  cliffs  of  Quebec, 
crowned  with  batteries,  and  flowering  into  spires. 


is  2i  M.  long, 
ia,  where  emi- 
purified.  The 
o  have  reached 
id  ships,  poorly 
is  occupied  by 

s. 

WO  inhabitants, 
,  and  bare  gray- 
i)  and  Madame 
is  beyond  Belle- 
deposits  of  bog 
oute  71)  is  now 
f  Mt.  St.  Anne. 
ichel,  a  lumber- 
hurch  are  some 
by  MuriUo  (f )  ; 
eath  of  the  Vir- 
jellation,  Chally. 
|habitants,  oppo- 
lents  now  grow 
ip  passes  the  W. 
lew  on  the  route, 
rugged  heights 
iliflfs  of  Quebec, 


QUEBEC. 

1  BasiUcOf  )^^*^* 

2  Gn^iean^    L- \A, 

3  Wtde^an  C'kurck K^^* 

4  Byistfftfrian  "  E.4, 

7  Si. Sam'euf:.::.....'..Pi2, 

^Hf.Bvch. :: C2. 

9  NofivDamrdgs 

VitioijTs.,... F.^. 

H  Sentuuuy^ .... £•3. 

12  LamlUnimmlf, E3, 

^UrHfiUns     fi, R't. 

15  ^J&*«r-1— -  -  D.3. 

M$  (Jm^if^idkad...' C.2. 

17  (rmmdlht^itL B.2. 

K  Muriiui. ,* -,-.  -Cil. 

^  Mfirrin^  f'«lf*te^ K^» 

21  CmrtJItvisfi. E."!. 

22  Kent  House/  E»4'. 

nmghSt^M «.i. 

2\  timnmrs (mnffft-  ...J5.4:. 

25  (iitlomlhtur     .  -.F.3. 

26  ChamfJain  Miuh:t     E4, 

21  Jnil B.;>. 

'28  ^eUvs Mfw-rnenlV^* 

l^Atmrifan  (msulitU  -  -Ed. 
IfyStJvUsGaU Ill3. 

31i*./j^«M.      .--    Ri. 

22  hi.scvii"..  -B.E4. 

23  /^<sv»* «^ ^^••^' 

St  FaJlALoe..." E.3. 


Vb  St  L0visH9Ul       E.4. 

ViDepartmsnialBl^s  D.4. 

37v:M.r..4.  T>». 


QUEBEC. 

1  Busiluii^  £■'•(• 

2  Qtifflican^    i' F»4. 

3  WitUtfMi  Chutrht K«V. 

4  hviifUTian  -  E.4, 

8  S^.RocXl...^! d2. 

y^eitr*. F.4. 

H  /^^^nSAuD^ftf.^^  ,  E.3. 

H  SaniMijr  ...^ lL3t, 

12  Lmnllbmmmif.. E3r 

B/A^/^/^imi^    :E3. 

H/i&«»^W    .:. Rl. 

15^JWfc«r.l. DA 

Itt  (Jiyn^tOmd...' C2. 

17  (tmtnd  Bufil4iL Bw2. 

K  Mniiw^. -* -,....CiL 

f^  Mnrrn  f^lUige.: Ei3« 

30/M««»fjfiUv    K3. 

21  GmrfBmsfi. .E*4f. 

22  KuUHbuso  JS*4'* 
nm^hifehM.. Jfi.4. 

24  (tmnut^  Oatdav.  ...JU  A 

25  GishnnHmgc F.3. 

26  ChtimiJlmn  Muhct    R4. 

21  tA/*/ ».•>. 

'28  }MMsMnmmenl.-VL^ 
TAAmmMn  OvstiltiU .  £3. 
^St.J0hrts(^atr n3. 

3l4*./«i.»       --     Dtf. 

32  A).;**^ -• .    j:.e4. 

7^  H0p» — « ..K.3. 

34  FaJUuta..." T2.3. 


UStL0ui$UkU       E.4. 

3ttDkyMi»^ni«r»/aZ  £l/^s  D.4. 

7nY,M,C.A.           .B3. 
38  i&rU  ggfe.       PA 


QUEBEC. 


Eoute  68,      255 


68.  Qnebea 

Arrival.  —  If  the  tnyeller  has  much  baggaoe,  it  b  heat  to  take  a  eaniage  or 
the  hotel  omnibus  to  the  Upper  Town.  The  cnliehe  is  not  adapted  for  carrying  lug- 
gage. 

Hotels.  —  The  *  St.  Louis  Hotel  is  a  large  house  near  the  Dufferin  Terrace* 
kept  by  Willis  Russell,  an  American  gentleman.  It  accommodates  500  guests,  and 
charges  $  2.50-3.50  a  day.  The  Russell  House  is  a  large  modem  hotel,  near  the  St. 
Louis,  and  under  the  same  management.  Its  terms  are  lower  than  those  of  the  St. 
Louis.  The  Albion  Hotel  is  on  Palace  St.,  and  charges  $2.50  a  day.  Uenchey's 
Hotel  (on  St.  Anne  St.,  opposite  the  Anglican  Cathedral)  is  quiet  and  moderate,  for 
gentlemen  travelling  en  gargon.  The  Mountain-Hill  House,  on  Mountain-Hill  St., 
and  Blanchard's  Hotel,  in  the  Lower  Town,  opposite  Notre  Dame  des  Yictoires,  are 
jecond-class  houses,  charging  about  $  1.50  a  day. 

There  are  several  good  boarding-bouses  in  the  Upper  Town,  among  which  are 
those  of  the  Misses  Leonard,  3  St.  ^uis  St. ;  Mrs.  McDonell,  12  St.  Louis  St  ;  Miss 
Lane,  44  St.  Anne  St. ;  Mrs.  Boyce,  1  Garden  St.  Comfortable  quarters  may  be  ob- 
tained at  these  houses  for  about  $  10  a  week. 

Carriages  in  every  variety  may  l>e  procured  at  the  livery-stables,  and  large 
numbers  of  them  are  kept  at  the  stands  near  the  St.  Louis  Hotel,  in  front  of  the  Ca- 
thedral, and  beyond  St.  John's  Qate.  The  carriages  in  the  Lower  Town  are  less  ele- 
gant and  much  less  expensive  than  those  within  the  walls.  The  rates  for  excursions 
in  the  suburbs  in  summer  are  from  $3  to  $4  for  1-8  persons  (to  Montmorenci 
Falls,  Lorette,  Cap  Rouge,  etc.).  During  the  autumn  the  rates  are  reduced.  The 
eo/^cAe-drivers  of  the  Lower  Town  usually  demand  $2  for  carrying  1-2  persons  to 
the  outer  suburban  resorts.  The  caliche  is  a  singular  and  usually  very  shabby- 
looking  vehicle,  perched  on  two  high  wheels,  with  the  driver  sitting  on  a  narrow 
ledge  in  front.  It  'i  drawn  by  a  homely  but  hardy  little  horse,  and  is  usually  driven 
by  a  French  Canadian,  who  urges  the  horse  forward  by  the  sharp  dissyUabio  cry, 
"JMarcAe-rfonc."' 

Horse-Cars  run  between  St.  Ours,  St.  Sauveur,  and  the  Ghamplain  Market, 
every  15  minutes,  traversing  St.  Joseph,  St.  Paul,  and  St.  Peter  Sts.  The  fare 
is  5c. 

Readlns-Booms.  —  The  elegant  library  of  the  Que1)eo  Literary  and  His- 
torical Society  (in  Morrin  College)  is  courteously  opened  to  the  visits  of  strangers. 
The  Library  of  Parliament  is  aU«o  accessible,  and  is  finely  arranged.  The  Institut 
Canadien  is  at  67  Fabrique  St. :  and  the  T.  M.  C.  Association  Hall  is  a  splendid 
building,  erected  in  1879-80,  on  St.  John  St.,  just  outside  the  gate. 

Pogt-Offioe  at  tbe  corner  of  Buade  and  Du  Fort  Sts.  According  to  the  new 
rules  of  the  Canadian  postal  service,  stamps  are  not  sold  at  the  post-offices,  but  are 
kept  on  sale  by  the  booksellers. 

The  most  attractive  shops  are  on  Fabrique  and  St.  John  Sts.,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  French  Cathedral,  or  Basilica. 

BaUivays.  —  The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  has  its  terminal  station  at  Point  Levi, 
817  M.  from  Portland,  425  M.  from  Boston,  and  586  M.  ftom  New  York.  Passengers 
take  the  Grand  Trunk  ferry-steamer  near  the  Champlain  Market.  The  North  Shore 
Railway  runs  flrom  Quebec  to  Montreal  and  Ottawa,  along  the  N.  shore  of  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  Quebec  and  Lake  St.  John  Railway  runs  to  St.  Raymond,  a  hand- 
some French  village  of  1,600  inhabitants,  42  M.  distant,  and  is  being  prolonged  to 
Lake  St.  John.  Stages  run  from  its  station  of  St.  Ambroise  to  Indian  Lorette  and 
from  Yaleartier  Station  to  Yalcartier. 

Steamships.  —  The  steamships  of  the  Allan  line  leave  Quebec  for  Lough  Foyle 
and  Liverpooiard  Glasgow  every  Saturday,  during  the  season  of  summer-navigation. 
The  Dominion  Line  also  sends  steamships  weekly  to  Liverpool.  The  vessels  of  the 
Quebec  S.  S.  Co.  leave  every  week  for  Father  Point,  176  M.  ;  M^tis,207;  Qaspe, 
443 ;  Perc^,  472 ;  Summerside,  710 :  Charlottetown,  784 ;  and  Pictou,  82d.  Tbe  Sc. 
Lawrance  S  N.  Co.  runs  to  Bay  St.  Paul,  55  M. ;  Eboulement,  66 ;  Murray  Bay, 
82;  Riviere  du  Loup,  112;  Tadousac,  134;  L'Anse  St.  Jean,  166;  Ha!  Ha!  Bay, 
207 ;  Chicoutimi,  235.  Smaller  boats  run  to  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  21  ^  Les  Ecu- 
reuils,  27 ;  Platon  and  Portneuf,  83  ;  Deschambault,  45 ;  Grondines,  48 ;  and  St. 
Anne  de  la  Perade,  68  ;  also  to  St.  Lambert,  9 ;  and  St.  Jean,  17  ;  also,  during  the 
pilgrimage  season,  to  St.  Anne  de  Beaupr^.  Ferry-l>oats  ran  to  Point  Levi  several 
tUuesan  hour :  and  to  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 


256     RauU  68. 


QUEBEC. 


Quebec,  "the  Gibraltar  of  America,*'  and  the  second  city  in  the  Do- 
minion of  Canada,  is  situated  on  a  rocky  promontory  at  the  confluence  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles  Rivers,  180  M.  from  Montreal,  and  over 
400  M.  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  It  has  about  76,000  inhabitants, 
with  6  banks,  6  Masonic  lodges,  and  numerous  newspapers  in  the  French 
and  the  English  languages.    The  chief  business  of  the  city  is  in  the  hand- 

\Jing  and  exportation  of  lumber,  of  which  $5-7,000,000  worth  is  sent 
away  annually.  There  are  long  lines  of  coves  along  the  St.  Lawrence 
shore,  above  the  city,  arranged  for  the  reception  and  protection  of  the 
vast  rafts  which  come  down  from  the  northern  forests.  A  very  consid- 
erable export  trade  in  grain  is  also  done  here,  and  the  various  supplies 
of  the  populous  counties  to  the  N.  and  E.  are  drawn  from  this  point. 

,  Ship-building  is  a  leading  industry,  and  many  vessels  of  the  largest  size 
have  been  launched  from  the  shipyards  on  the  St.  Charles ;  but  the  business 
has  fallen  off  verj'  considerably  of  late.  Of  Jate  years  several  important 
manufactories  have  been  established  in  the  Lower  Town,  and  the  city  is 
expected  to  derive  great  benefit  from  the  convergence  here  of  several 
lines  of  failway,  connecting  with  the  transatlantic  steamships,  and  making 
it  a  depot  of  immigration  and  of  freighting.  The  introduction  of  an  abun- 
dant and  powerful  water  supply  from  Lake  St.  Charles  and  the  establish- 
ment of  a  fire-brigade  and  alarm-telegraph  have  preserved  the  city,  during 
late  years,  from  a  recurrence  of  the  terrible  fires  with  which  it  was  for- 
merl}^  scourged.    A  second  main  was  laid  iu  1883. 

Quebec  is  built  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  bounded  by  the  two 
rivers  and  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  is  divided  into  the  Upper  Town 
and  Lower  Town,  the  former  standing  on  an  enwalied  and  strongly  forti- 
fied bluff  350  ft.  high,  while  the  latter  is  built  on  the  contracted  strands 
between  the  cliffs  and  the  rivers.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crookv  ,  and 
often  very  steep,  and  the  houses  are  generally  built  of  cut  stone,  in  a  style 
of  severe  simplicity.  It  is  the  most  quaint,  picturesque,  and  mediseval- 
looking  city  in  America,  and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  suburbs. 

"  Take  mountain  and  plain,  sinuous  river,  and  broad,  tranquil  watera,  stately 
ship  and  tiny  boat,  gentle  hill  and  shady  valley,  bold  headland  and  rich,  fruitful 
fields,  frowning  battlement  and  cheerful  villa,  glittering  dome  and  rural  spire,  flow- 
ery garden  and  sombre  forest,  —  group  them  all  into  the  choicest  picture  of  ideal 
beauty  your  fancy  can  create,  arch  it  over  with  a  cloudless  sky,  light  it  up  with  a 
radiant  sun,  and  lest  the  sheen  should  be  too  dazzling,  hang  a  veil  of  lighted  haze 
over  all,  to  soften  the  lines  and  perfect  the  repose,  —  you  will  then  have  seen  Quebec 
on  this  September  morning."    (EuoT  Warburton.) 

*'  Quebec  recalls  Angouleme  to  my  mind :  in  the  tipper  city,  stairways,  narrow 
streets,  ancient  houses  on  the  verge  of  the  clifT;  in  the  lower  city,  the  new  fortunes, 
commerce,  workmen ;  —  in  both,  many  shops  and  much  activity."    (M.  Sand  ) 

"  The  scenic  beauty  of  Quebec  has  been  the  theme  of  general  eulogy.  The  majestic 
appearance  of  Cape  Diamond  and  the  fortiftcations, — the  cupolas  and  minarets,  like 
those  of  an  Eastern  city,  blazing  and  sparkling  in  the  sun,  —  the  loveliness  of  the 
panorama,  —  the  noble  basin,  like  a  sheet  of  purest  silver,  in  which  might  ride  with 
safety  a  hundred  sail  of  the  line,  —  the  graceful  meandering  of  the  river  St.  Charle!<, 
—  the  numerous  village  spires  on  either  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence, —  the  fertile  fields 
dotted  with  innumerable  cottages,  the  abodes  of  a  rich  and  moral  peasantry, —  the 
distant  Falls  of  Montmorenci ,  —  the  park-like  scenery  of  Point  Levi,  —  the  beauteous 
Isle  of  Orleans,  —and  more  distant  still,  the  fiowning  Gape  Tourmcnte,  and  the  lofty 


QUEBEC. 


ItmUe  68^     257 


heDo- 

snce  of 

ad  over 

bitants, 

French 

e  hand- 
is  sent 

iwrence 

1  of  the 
consid- 

suppliea 

is  point. 

rgest  size 

j  business 

mpoTtant 

ae  city  is 

af  several 

td  making 

I  an  abun- 

establish- 

ity,  during 

t  was  for- 

>y  the  two 
jper  Town 
>ngly  forti- 
[ed  strands 
)kv  ,  and 
I,  in  a  style 
mediSBval- 

bs. 

Ltevf,  stately 
Hch,  fruitful 
Ll  eplre,  flow- 
Iture  of  ideal 
lit  up  ■with  a 
I  lighted  haze 
I  Been  Quebec 

Lays,  narrow 
tew  fortunes, 
r.  Sand  ) 
]  The  majestic 
Linarets,  like 
£liness  of  the 
Ight  ride  with 
It  St.  Charles, 
*>  fertile  fields 
riaiitry,-tbe 
fehe  beauteous 
I  and  the  lofty 


range  of  pnrple  mmmtalna  of  the  most  pictnresqne  formi  which  bound  the  prospect, 
unite  to  form  a  coup  d^ail,  which,  without  exa^ration,  is  scarcely  to  be  surpassed 
in  any  part  of  the  world.''    (HAWKras. ) 

"  I  rubbed  my  eyes  to  be  sure  that  I  was  in  the  nineteenth  century,  and  was  not 
entering  one  of  those  portals  which  sometimes  adorn  the  frontispiece  of  old  black> 
letter  volumes.  I  thought  it  would  be  a  good  place  to  read  Froissart's  Chronicles. 
It  was  such  a  reminiscence  of  the  Middle  Ages  as  Scott's  novels. 

"  Too  much  has  not  been  said  about  the  scenery  of  Quebec.  The  fortifications  of 
Cape  Diamond  are  omnipresent.  You  travel  10,  20,  80  M.  up  or  down  the  river's 
banks,  you  ramble  15  M-  among  the  hills  on  either  side,  and  then,  when  you  have 
long  since  forgotten  them,  perchance  slept  on  tliem  by  the  way,  at  a  turn  of  the 
road  or  of  your  body,  there  they  are  still,  with  their  geometry  against  the  sky.  .  .  .'. 
No  wonder  if  Jaques  Cartier's  pilot  exclaimed  in  Norman-Freucb,  Que  bee !  ( '  What 
a  peak ! ')  when  he  saw  this  cape,  as  some  suppose.  Every  modern  traveller  invol- 
untarily uses  a  similar  expression The  view  from  Cape  Diamond  has  been 

compared  by  European  travellers  with  the  most  remarkable  views  of  a  similar  kind, 
in  Europe,  such  as  ftoxa.  Edinburgh  Castle,  Gibraltar,  Cintra,  and  others,  and  pre- 
ferred  by  many.  A  main  peculiarity  in  this,  compared  with  other  views  which  I 
have  beheld,  is  that  it  is  from  the  ramparts  of  a  fortified  city,  and  not  from  a  soli« 

tary  and  majestic  river  cape  alone  that  this  view  is  obtained I  still  remember 

the  harbor  far  beneath  me,  sparkling  like  silver  in  the  sun,  —  the  answering  head- 
lands of  Point  Levi  on  the  S.  E. ,  —  the  frowning  Cape  Tourmente  abruptly  bounding 
the  seaward  view  tax  in  the  N.  E. ,  —  the  villages  of  Lorette  and  Charlesbourg  on  the 
N.,  —  and  forther  W.  the  distant  Yal  Cartier,  sparkling  with  white  cottages,  hardly 
removed  by  distance  through  the  clear  air,  —  not  to  mention  a  few  bjue  mountains 
along  the  horizon  in  that  direction.  You  look  out  from  the  ramparts  of  the  citadel 
beyond  the  fh>ntier8  of  civilization.  Yonder  small  group  of  hi'ls,  according  to  the 
guide-book,  forms  '  the  portal  of  the  wilds  which  are  trodden  only  by  the  feet  of  the 
Indian  hunters  as  far  as  Hudson's  Bay.'  "    (Thureau.) 

'*  There  is  no  city  in  America  more  fiunous  in  the  annals  of  history  than  Quebec, 
and  few  on  the  continent  of  Europe  more  picturesquely  situated.  Whilst  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  reminds  one  of  tlie  unrivalled  views  of  the  Bosphorus,  the  airy.site 
of  the  citadel  and  town  calls  to  mind  Innspruck  and  Edinburgh.  Quebec  may  be  best 
described  by  supposing  that  an  ancient  Norman  fortress  of  two  centuries  ago  had 
been  encased  in  ambert  transported  by  magic  to  Canada,  and  placed  on  the  summit 
of  Cape  Diamond. ' ' 

*'  Quebec,  at  least  for  an  American  city,  is  certainly  a  very  peculiar  place.  A  mili- 
tary town,  containing  about  20,000  inhabitants  ;  most  compactly  and  permanently 
built,  —  stone  its  sole  material ;  environed,  as  to  its  most  important  parts,  by  walLi 
and  gates,  and  defended  by  numerous  heav3>^  cannon ;  .  .  . .  founded  upon  a  rocit, 
and  in  its  highest  parts  overlooking  a  great  extent  of  country ;  3-400  miles  from 
the  ocean,  in  the  midst  of  a  great  continent,  and  yet'^displaying  fleets  of  foreign  mer- 
chantmen in  its  fine,  capacious  bay,  and  showing  all  the  bustle  of  a  crowded  sea- 
port ;  its  streets  narrow,  populous,  and  winding  up  and  down  almost  mountainous 
declivities  ;  situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  parts  of  Europe,  exhibiting  in  its 
environs  the  beauty  of  a  European  capital,  and  yet  in  winter  smarting  with  the  cold 
of  Siberia ;  governed  by  a  people  of  different  language  and  habits  firom  the  mass  of 
the  population,  opposed  in  religion,  and  yet  leaving  that  population  without  taxes, 
and  in  the  enjoyment  of  every  privilege,  civil  and  religious :  such  are  the  prominent 
features  which  strike  a  stranger  in  the  city  of  Quebec.  A  seat  of  ancient  Dominion, 
—  now  hoar^  with  the  lapse  of  more  than  two  centuries,  —  formerly  the  seat  of  a 
French  empire  in  the  west,  —  lost  and  won  by  the  blood  of  gallant  armies,  and  of 
illustrious  commanders,  —  throned  on  a  rock,  and  defended  by  all  the  proud  defiance 
of  war !  Who  could  approach  such  a  city  without  emotion  \  Who  in  Canada  has 
not  longed  to  cast  his  eyes  on  the  water-girt  rocks  and  towers  of  Quebec."  (PaoF. 
SiLLiMAN ;  in  1820.) 

"  Few  cities  offer  so  many  striking  contrasts  as  Quebec.  A  fortress  and  a  com- 
mercial city  toge'^her,  built  upon  the  summit  of  a  rock  like  the  nest  of  an  eagle, 
while  her  vessels  >e  everywhere  wrinkling  the  face  of  the  ocean ;  an  American  city 
inhabited  by  French  colonists,  governed  by  England,  and  garrisoned  by  Scotch 
regiments ;  a  city  of  the  Middle  Ar'^  by  most  of  its  ancient  institutions,  while  it  is 
subject  to  all  the  combinations  of  modern  constitutional  government ;  a  European 
city  by  its  civilization  and  its  habits  of  refinement,  and  still  close  by  the  remnants 
of  the  Indian  tribes  and  the  barren  mts.  of  the  North ;  a  city  with  about  the  same 


258     Jtoute  68. 


QUEBEC. 


i  I  K' 


latitude  as  Paria,  while  raccetsirely  combining  tlie  torrid  climate  of  wmthemref^ons 
with  the  Beverities  of  an  hyperborean  winter ;  a  city  at  the  same  time  Catholic  and 
Protestant,  where  the  labors  of  our  (French)  missions  are  still  uninterrupted  along- 
side of  the  undertakings  of  the  Bible  Society,  and  where  the  Jesuits,  driven  out  of 
our  own  country,  And  refuge  under  the  ffgis  of  British  Puritanism."  (X.  Mabmier's 
Lettres  sur  fAmirique,  1860.) 

"  Leaving  the  citadel  we  are  once  more  in  the  European  Middle  Ages.  Gates  aud 
posterns,  cranky  steps  that  le»4  up  to  lofty,  gabled  houses,  with  sharp  French  roofs 
of  burnished  tin,  like  those  of  Li^ge ;  processions  of  the  Host ;  altars  decked  with 
flowers ;  statues  of  the  Virgin ;  sabots ;  blouses ;  and  the  scarlet  of  the  British  lines- 
man,—  all  these  are  seen  in  narrow  streets  and  markets  that  are  graced  with  many 
a  Cotentin  lace  cap,  and  all  within  40  miles  of  the  down-east,  Yankee  State  of  Maine. 

It  is  not  far  from  New  England  to  Old  France There  has  been  no  dying  out 

of  the  race  among  the  French  Canadians.  They  number  twenty  times  the  thousands 
that  they  did  100  years  ago.  The  American  soil  has  left  their  physical  type,  re- 
ligion, language,  and  laws  absolutely  untouched.  They  herd  together  in  their 
rambling  villages,  dance  to  the  fiddle  after  mass  on  Sundays,  —  as  gayly  as  once  did 
tht'r  Norman  sires,  —  and  keep  up  the  fleur-de-lys  and  the  memory  of  Montcalm. 
Morti  French  than  the  French  are  the  Lower  Canada  habitans.  The  pulse-beat  of  the 
continent  finds  no  echo  here."    (SjB  Charles  Dilke.) 

"Curious  old  Quebec!  of  all  the  cities  of  the  continent  of  America  the  mobt 
quaint!  It  is  a  peak  thickly  populated !  a  gigantic  rock,  escarped,  echeloned,  and 
at  the  same  tijie  smoothed  off  to  hold  firmly  on  its  summit  the  houses  and  caf^tles, 
although  according  to  the  ordinary  laws  of  matter  they  ought  to  fall  off  Uke  a  bur- 
den placed  on  a  camel's  back  without  a  fastening.  Yet  the  {houses  and  castles  hold 
there  as  if  ^hey  were  nailed  down.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  some  feet  of  land  have 
been  reclaimed  from  the  river,  and  that  is  for  the  streets  of  the  Lower  Town.  Que- 
bec is  a  dried  shred  of  the  Middle  Ages,  hung  high  up  near  the  North  Pole,  far  from 
the  beaten  paths  of  the  European  tourists,  ....  a  curiosity  without  parallel  on 
this  side  of  the  ocean.  We  traversed  each  street  as  we  would  have  turned  the  leaves 
of  a  book  of  engravings,  containing  a  new  painting  on  each  page The  local- 
ity ought  to  be  scrupulously  preserved  antique.  Let  modern  progress  be  carried 
elsewhere !  When  Quebec  has  taken  the  pains  to  go  aud  perch  herself  away  up 
near  Hudson's  Bay,  it  would  be  cruel  and  unfitting  to  dare  to  harass  her  with  new 
ideas,  and  to  speak  of  doing  away  with  the  narrow  and  tortuous  streets  that  charm 
all  travellers,  in  order  to  seek  conformity  with  the  fantastic  ideas  of  comfort  in 
TOgue  in  the  19th  century."    (Henrt  Ward  Beecher.) 

"  On  I'a  dit,  Quebec  est  un  promontoire,  c'est  avant  tout  une  forteresse  remarqua^ 
ble.  La  citadelle  s'^l^ve  au-dessus  de  la  ville  et  mire  dans  les  eaux  du  fieuve  ses 
cn^neaux  brants.  Le  voyageur  s'^tonne,  apr^s  avoir  admire  les  bords  verdoyants  et 
fieuris  du  Saint-Ijaurent,  les  forSts  aux  puissantes  ramures  pleines  de  mysteres  et 
d'ombre,  les  riantes  valines  plemes  de  bruits  et  de  rayons,  de  rencontrer  tout  &  coup 
cette  ville  qui  semble  venir  d'Europe  et  qui  serait  moins  strange  sur  les  .bords  du 
Bhin  aux  dramatiques  legendes.    Mais  Quebec  n'est  pas  une  ville  ou  VC  tranger  vienne 

se  distrcire  et  chercher  d'oubli  un  the&tre  k  grands  luxes,  &  grands  spectacles 

C'est  peut-Stre  la  seule  ville  du  monde  ou  les  gens  aient  droit  de  se  plaindre  et  ou 
ils  ne  se  plaignent  pas.  J'ai  ccrit  que  Quebec  est  une  forteresse  remarquable; 
elle  €lhfe  son  front  superbe  et  se  cambre  avec  fiei  t^  dans  sa  robe  de  pierre.  £lle  a 
conserve  un  air  des  temps  chevaleresques,  elle  a  soutenu  dcs  si.  ges,  elle  a  re^u  sou 
baptSme  du  fi»u.  En  longeant  ces  vieux  murs,  en  admirant  cette  forteresse  elevce 
comme  un  nid  d'aigle  sur  un  roc  sourcilleux,  on  se  croirait  dans  une  ville  du  moyen 
&ge,  au  temps  des  factions  et  des  guerres  civiles,  une  de  ces  villes  accoutumi  es  aux 
bruits  des  armes,  aux  fanfares  et  aux  hymnes  guerriers,  mais  tout  est  silencieux  dans 
la  nuit  sereine,  et  vous  n'entendez  meme  pas  le  pace  cadence  d'une  sentinelle. 
Dans  cette  ville  et  aux  alentours,  que  d'cvi'nements  ont  I'te  accompli !  Quelle  lutte 
pleine  de  poesie  heroique !  Que  de  vicissitudes !  et  quel  courage !  En  quelque  lieu 
que  vous  alliez,  k  la  basse-viile,  sur  le  chemin  Saint-Louis  ou  Sainte-Foye,  sur  les 
rives  de  la  riviere  Saint-Charles,  tout  respire  un  parfum  historique,  tout  parle  a  vos 
yeux,  tout  a  une  voix  qui  exprime  quelque  chose  de  grand  et  de  triste,  et  les  pierres 
mimes  sent  autour  de  vous  comme  lea  fimtdmes  qui  reflechissent  le  passe." 


II  !    i 
t:   I     I 


QUEBEC. 


HouU  68.     259 


ceglom 
Lio  and 
along- 
out  of 
rmier's 

te8  aud 
;h  rooft 
ed  with 
sh  lineB- 
th  many 
(f  Maine, 
i^ing  out 
kousands 
type,  re- 
in  tbeir 
once  did 
[ontcalm. 
eat  of  the 

the  most 
oned, and 
id  caf  ties, 
ke  a  bur- 
ustles  hold 
land  haTB 
wn.    Que- 
e,  far  from 
parallel  on 
I  the  leaves 
The  local- 
be  carried 
Jf  away  «P 
[r  with  new 
;hat  charm 
comfort  in 


The  Dnfferin  Terrace  is  on  the  riverward  edge  of  the  Upper  Town,  and 
begins  on  the  buttresses  and  platform  formerly  occupied  by  the  Chateau 
of  St.  Louis,  which  was  built  by  Champlain  in  1620,  and  extends  for  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  base  of  the  citadel,  making  it  the  longest  prome- 
nade of  the  sort  in  the  world.  It  was  opened  on  June  10,  1879,  by  the 
Marquis  of  Lome  and  the  Princess  Louise,  in  the  presence  of  10,000  people. 
The  old  Chateau  was  a  massive  stone  structure,  200  ft.  long,  used  for  a 
fortress,  prison,  and  governor's  palace,  and  it  stood  until  1834,  when  it  was 
ruined  by  lire.  The  terrace  is  182  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commands  a 
*  view  of  surpassing  beauty.  Immediately  below  ai'e  the  sinuous  streets 
of  the  Lower  Town,  with  its  wharves  projecting  into  the  stream.  On  one 
side  are  the  lofty  fortified  bluffs  of  Point  Levi,  and  on  the  other  the  St. 
Charles  River  winds  away  down  its  peaceful  valley.  The  white  houses  of 
Beauport  stretch  off  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  while  be- 
yond are  seen  the  farms  of  L'Ange  Gardien,  extending  cowards  the 
heights  of  St.  Fereol.  Vessels  of  all  classes  and  sizes  are  anchored  in  the 
broad  basin  and  the  river,  and  the  rich  and  verdant  Isle  of  Orleans  is  in 
mid-stream  below.  Beyond,  and  over  all,  are  the  bold  peaks  of  the  Lau- 
rentian  range,  with  Cape  Tourmente  towering  over  the  river.  The  Terrace 
is  the  favorite  promenade  of  the  citizens,  and  presents  an  attractive  scene 
in  the  late  afternoon  or  on  pleasant  Sundays.  On  the  site  of  the  Old 
Chateau  erected  in  1779  for  the  British  Governors  a  great  modern  hotel 
is  in  process  of  construction. 

"  There  is  not  in  the  world  a  nobler  outlook  than  that  from  the  Terrace  at  Que- 
bec. You  stand  upon  a  rock  overhanging  city  and  river,  and  look  down  upon  the 
guard-shipd'  masts.  Acre  upon  acre  of  timber  comes  tloutiug  down  the  stream 
above  the  city,  the  Canadik^n  boat-songs  just  reaching  you  upon  the  heights ;  and 
beneath  you  are  fleets  of  great  ships,  English,  German,  French,  and  Dutch,  embark- 
ing the  timber  from  the  Heating  docks.  The  Stars  and  Stripes  are  nowhere  to  be 
seen."    (Sib  Charles  Dilke.) 

"  On  a  summer  evening,  when  the  Terrace  is  covered  with  loungers,  and  when 
Point  Levi  is  sprinkled  with  lights  and  tlie  Lower  Town  has  illuminated  its  narrow 
streets  and  its  long  dormer-windows,  while  the  lively  murmur  of  business  is  ascend- 
ing and  the  eye  can  discern  the  great  shadows  of  the  ships  beating  into  port,  the 
scene  is  one  of  marvellous  animation.  It  is  then,  above  all,  that  one  is  struck  with 
the  resemblance  between  Quebec  and  the  European  cities ;  it  might  be  called  a  city 
of  France  or  Italy  transplanted ;  the  physiognomy  is  the  same,  and  daylight  ig 
needed  to  mark  the  alteration  of  features  produced  by  the  passage  to  America." 

"  At  a  later  era,  when,  under  the  protection  of  the  French  kings,  the  Provinces 
had  acc^uired  the  rudiments  of  military  strength  and  power,  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis 
was  remarkable  as  having  been  the  site  whence  the  French  governors  exercised  an 
immense  sovereignty,  extending  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  along  the  shores  of 
that  noble  river,  its  magnificent  lakes,  and  down  the  course  of  the  Mississippi  to  its 
outlet  below  New  Orleans.  The  banner  which  first  streamed  from  the  battlements 
of  Quebec  was  displayed  from  a  chain  of  forts  which  protected  the  settlements 
throughout  this  vast  extent  of  country,  keeping  the  English  Colonies  in  constant 
alarm,  and  securing  the  fidelity  of  the  Indian  nations.  During  this  period  the  coun- 
cil chamber  of  the  castle  was  the  scene  of  many  a  midnight  vigil,  many  a  long  delib- 
eration and  deep-laid  project,  to  free  the  continent  from  the  intrusion  of  the  ancient 
rival  of  France,  and  assert  throughout  the  supremacy  of  the  Gallic  lily.  At  another 
period,  subsequent  to  the  surrender  of  Quebec  to  the  British  arms,  and  until  the 
recognition  of  the  independence  of  the  United  States,  the  extent  of  empire  of  which 
the  Castle  of  Quebec  was  the  principal  seat  comprehended  the  whole  American  con- 
tinent north  of  Mexico."    (Hawkins.) 


260     Route  68, 


QUEBEC. 


The  Anglioan  Oathednl  oecnpies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Recollet  Cot^ 
vent  and  gardens,  and  is  a  plain  and  massive  building,  136  ft.  long,  with 
a  spire  152  ft.  high.  It  was  built  by  the  British  government  in  1803  -  4, 
and  received  its  snperb  communion-service,  altar-cloths,  and  books  as  a 
present  from  King  George  III.  There  is  a  chime  of  8  bells  in  the  tower, 
which  makes  pleasant  music  on  Sundays;  and  the  windows  are  of  rich 
stained  glass.  The  interior  is  plain  and  the  roof  is  supported  on  Corinthian 
pillars  and  pilasters,  while  over  the  chancel  hang  the  old  Crimean  colors 
of  the  69th  Begiment  of  the  British  army.  Under  the  altar  lie  the  remains 
of  Charles  Lennox,  Duke  of  Richmond,  Lennox,  and  Aubigny,  and  Gov- 
ernor-General of  Canada,  who  died  of  hydrophobia  in  1819.  There  are 
numerous  mural  monuments  in  the  cathedral,  and  in  the  chancel  are  the 
memorials  to  the  early  Anglican  Bishops  of  Quebec,  Jacob  Mountain  and 
Charles  James  Stewart.  The  former  consists  of  a  bust  of  the  Bishop, 
alongside  of  which  is  a  statue  of  Religion,  both  in  relief,  in  white  marble, 
on  a  background  of  black  marble. 

Dr.  Mountain  was  in  the  presence  of  King  George,  when  he  expressed  a 
doubt  as  to  whom  he  should  appoint  as  bishop  of  the  new  See  of  Quebec. 
Said  the  doctor,  "If  your  Majestj'  had  faith,  there  would  be  no  diflBculty." 
"How  so?"  said  the  king.  Mountain  answered,  "If  you  had  faith,  you 
would  say  to  this  Mountain,  Be  thou  removed  into  that  See,  and  it  would 
be  done."    It  was.  ^ 

Between  the  cathedral  and  the  Dufferin  Terrace  is  a  pretty  little  park 
called  the  Place  d^Armes,  beyond  which  are  the  crumbling  ruins  of  the 
court-house,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1871.  Beyond  the  court-house  (on  St 
Louis  St.)  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  opposite  which  are  the  old-time  structures 
of  the  St.  Louis  Hotel  and  the  ancient  Crown-Lands  building,  known  as  the 
Kent  ffouscy  from  the  fact  that  Prince  Edward,  the  Duke  of  Kent  (father 
of  Queen  Victoria),  dwelt  here  during  his  long  sojourn  at  Quebec.  Oppo- 
site the  St.  Louis  Hotel  is  a  quaint  little  building  (now  used  as  a  barber- 
shop), in  which  Montcalm  held  his  last  council  of  war.  St.  Louis  St.  runs 
out  through  the  ramparts,  traversing  a  quiet  and  solidly  built  quarter,  and 
is  prolonged  beyond  the  walls  as  the  (Srand  AU^e,  passing  the  magnifi- 
cent new  Parliament  Buildings. 

The  *  Market  Square  is  near  the  centre  of  the  Upper  Town.  The  Jesuits* 
College  has  recently  been  torn  down,  and  its  place  remains  drearily  empty. 
Markets  are  not  now  held  on  the  Square,  but  outside  St.  John's  Gate. 

"  A  few  steps  had  brought  them  to  the  market-square  in  fiwnt  of  the  cathedral, 
where  a  little  belated  traffic  still  lingered  in  the  few  old  peasant-vromen  hovering 
over  baskets  of  puch  fhiits  and  vegetables  as  had  long  been  out  of  season  in  the 
States,  and  the  housekeepers  and  servants  cheapening  these  wares.  A  sentry  moved 
mechanically  up  and  down  before  the  high  portal  of  the  Jesuit  Barracks,  over  the 
arch  of  which  were  still  the  letters  I.  H.  S.  carved  long  ago  on  the  keystone  ;  and 
the  ancient  edifice  itself,  with  its  yellow  stucco  front  and  its  grated  windows,  had 
every  right  to  be  a  monastery  turned  barracks  in  France  or  Italy.  A  row  of  quaint 
stone  houses  — inns  and  shops  —  formed  the  upper  side  of  the  square,  while  the 
modem  buildings  of  the  Rue  Fabrique  on  the  lower  side  might  serve  very  well  for 


QUEBEC. 


HouU  68.      261 


Gon- 
,  with 
08-4, 
A  as  a 
tower, 
af  rich 
inthian 
I  colors 
•emains 
id  Gov- 
lere  are 
,  are  the 
;ain  and 

Bishop, 

marble, 

a 

Quebec. 
fficuUy." 
•aith,  you 
,  it  would 

ittle  park 
ins*  of  the 
le  (on  St 
structures 
>wn  as  the 
snt  (father 

\c.  Oppo- 
a  barher- 

[is  St.  runs 
larter,  and 
magnifi- 

le  Jesuits' 
[ily  empty, 
rate. 

lie  cathedral, 
Ten  hovering 
lason  in  ^^^ 
Vntry  moved 
fks,  over  the 
krstone ;  and 
lindows,  had 
W  of  quaint 
te.  while  the 
fcery  veU  for 


that  «how  of  improTemenl  which  deepens  the  sentiment  of  the  neighboring  antiquity 
and  decay  In  Latin  towns.  As  for  the  cathedral,  which  faced  the  convent  firom 
across  the  square,  it  was  as  cold  and  torpid  a  bit  of  Renaissance  as  could  be  found 
in  Rome  itself.  A  red-coated  soldier  or  two  passed  through  the  square :  three  or 
four  neat  little  French  policemen  lounged  about  in  blue  uniforms  and  flaring 
havelocks;  some  walnut>faced,  blue-eyed  old  citizens  and  peasants  sat  upon  the 
thresholds  of  the  row  of  old  houses  and  gazed  dreamily  through  the  smoke  of  their 
pipes  at  the  slight  stir  and  glitter  of  shopping  about  the  fine  stores  of  the  Rue 
Fabrique.  An  air  of  serene  disoccupation  pervaded  the  place,  with  which  the 
drivers  of  the  long  rows  of  calashes  and  carriages  in  front  of  the  cathedral  did  not 
discord.  Whenever  a  stray  American  wandered  into  the  square,  there  was  a  wild 
flight  of  these  drivers  towards  him,  and  his  person  was  lost  to  sight  amidst  their 
pantomime.  They  did  not  try  to  underbid  each  other,  and  they  were  perfectly  good- 
humored.  As  soon  as  he  had  made  his  choice,  the  rejected  multitude  returned  to 
their  places  on  the  curbstone,  pursuing  the  successful  aspirant  with  inscrutable 
jokes  as  he  drove  off,  while  the  horses  went  on  munching  the  contents  of  their 
leathern  head-bags,  and  tossing  them  into  the  air  to  shake  down  the  lurking  grains 
of  com."    (HoWELLS^s  A  Chance  Acquaintance.) 

The  magnificent  new  Parliament  and  Departmental  Buildings  are  on 
the  Grand  All^e,  on  high  ground  outside  the  St.  Louis  Gate,  and  were  begun 
ii.  1878.  The  halls  of  the  local  Parliament  were  begun  in  1882.  The 
buildings  are  of  gray  stone,  very  large  and  massive,  and  present  an  impos- 
ing appearance  when  seen  from  the  ramparts,  or  from  the  distant  valley 
villages.  It  was  at  one  time  intended  to  have  built  the  new  Parliament 
House  on  the  site  of  the  Jesuits'  College,  a  vast  quadrangular  pile,  224  by 
200  ft.  in  area,  founded  in  1646,  and  demolished  about  five  years  ago,  after 
a  long  period  of  desertion  and  dilapidation. 

The  Jesuits'  College  was  founded  In  1637,  one  year  before  Harvard  College, 
and  performed  a  noble  work  in  its  day.  It  was  suspended  in  1759  by  Qen. 
Murray,  who  quartered  his  troops  here,  and  in  1809  the  property  reverted  to  the 
crown,  on  the  death  of  the  laat  of  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  The  buildings  were  used 
as  barracks  until  the  British  armies  evacuated  Canada  "  From  this  seat  of  piety 
and  learning  issued  those  dauntless  missionaries,  who  made  the  Gospel  known 
over  a  space  of  600  leagues,  and  preached  the  Christian  faith  from  the  St.  Law. 
rence  to  the  Mississippi.  In  this  pious  work  many  suflered  death  in  the  most 
cruel  form ;  all  underwent  danger  and  privation  for  a  series  of  years,  with  a  con- 
stancy and  patience  that  must  always  command  the  wonder  of  the  historian  and 
the  admiration  of  posterity." 

The  *  Basilica  of  Qneheo  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Market  Square,  and 
was  known  as  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  until  1874,  when  it  was 
elevated  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  to  the  rank  of  a  basilica.  It  was  founded  in 
1666  by  Bishop  Laval,  and  was  destroyed  by  the  bombardment  from 
Wolfe's  batteries  in  1759.  The  present  building  dates  from  the  era  of  the 
Conquest,  and  its  exterior  is  quaint,  irregular,  and  homely.  From  its 
towers  the  Angelus  bells  sound  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  6  in  the 
evening.  The  interior  is  heavy,  but  not  unpleasing,  and  accommodates 
4,000  persons.  The  High  Altar  is  well  adorned,  and  there  are  several 
chapels  in  the  aisles.  The  most  notable  pictures  in  the  Basilica  are,  **  the 
Crucifixion,  by  Fan  Dyck  ("  the  Christ  of  the  Cathedral";  the  finest  paint- 
ing in  Canada),  on  the  first  pillar  1.  of  the  altar;  the  Ecstasy  of  St.  Paul, 
Carlo  Maratti ;  the  Annunciation,  Restout ;  the  Baptism  of  Christ,  HaUi  ; 
the  Pentecost,  Vignon ;  Miracles  of  St.  Anne,  Plamondon ;  Angels  waiting 


262      nattU  68. 


QUEBEC. 


on  Christ,  Rettout  (in  the  choir);  the  Nativity,  copy  fVom  Annibale  Co- 
racci;  Holy  Family,  Blanchard. 

The  Biuilica  occupies  the  iiite  of  the  ancient  church  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Itecoa> 
Trance,  built  in  1()38  by  Cham  plain ,  in  memory  of  the  recovery  of  Canada  by  France. 
Within  its  walls  are  buried  Diniiops  Laval  and  Plesnis;  Champlain,  the  heroic  ex- 
plorvr,  founder  and  flrst  Governor  of  Quebec :  and  the  Count  do  Frontenac,  the 
fiery  and  chivalric  Governor  of  Canada  from  1688  to  1698.  After  his  death  hia 
heart  vras  enclosed  in  a  leaden  caslcet  and  nent  to  bis  widow,  in  France,  but  the 
proud  countess  refuf>ed  to  receive  it,  saying  that  she  would  not  have  a  dead  heart, 
which,  while  living,  had  not  been  hers.  The  noble  lady  ("  the  marvellously  beautiful 
Anne  de  la  Grand-Trianon,  sumamed  The  Divine*'}  was  the  friend  of  Madame 
de  S^vign6,  and  was  alienated  from  Frontenac  on  account  of  his  love-affair  with 
the  brilliant  Yersaillaise,  Madame  de  Montespan. 

Most  of  the  valuable  paintings  in  the  Basilica,  and  elsewhere  in  Canada,  were 
bought  in  France  at  the  epoch  of  the  Revolution  of  1793,  when  the  churches  and 
convents  had  been  pillaged  of  their  treasures  of  art.  Many  of  them  were  purchased 
from  their  captors,  and  sent  to  the  secure  shores  of  New  France. 

Back  of  the  Basilica,  on  Port  Dauphin  St.,  is  the  extensive  palace  of 
the  Archbishop,  surrounded  bv  quiet  gardens.  To  the  E.  are  the  Parlia- 
ment Building  and  the  Grand  Battery. 

The  *  Seminary  of  Quebec  adjoins  the  Cathedral  on  the  N.,  and  covers 
several  acres  with  its  piles  of  quaint  and  rambling  buildings  and  quiet 
and  sequestered  gardens.  It  is  divided  into  Le  Grand  Seiuinaire  and  Le 
Petit  Seminaire,  the  former  being  devoted  to  Roman-Catholic  theology  and 
the  education  of  priests.  The  Minor  Seminary  is  for  the  study  of  litera- 
ture and  science  (for  boys),  and  the  course  extends  over  nine  years. 
Boarders  pay  $150  a  year,  exclusive  of  washing,  music,  and  draw- 
ing. The  students  may  be  recognized  in  the  streets  by  their  peculiar 
uniform.  The  quadrangle,  with  its  old  and  irregular  buildings ;  the  spot- 
less neatness  of  the  grounds ;  the  massive  walls  and  picturesquely  outlined 
groupings,  will  claim  the  interest  of  the  visitor. 

"  No  such  building  could  be  seen  anywhere  save  in  Quebec,  or  in  some  ancient 
provincial  town  in  Normandy.  You  ask  for  one  of  the  gentlemen  (priests),  and  you 
are  introduced  to  his  modest  apartment,  where  you  find  him  in  his  soutane,  with  all 
the  polish,  learning,  and  bonhommie  of  the  nineteenth  century."  Visitors  are  con- 
ducted over  the  building  in  a  courteous  manner. 

The  Seminary  Cliapel  has  some  fine  paintings  (beginning  at  the  r.  of  the  en- 
trance): the  Saviour  and  the  Samaritan  Woman,  Im  Gren  e;  the  Virgin  attended 
by  Angels,  Dim;  the  Crucifixion,  Monet;  the  Hermits  of  the  Thebaid,  OuiUot; 
the  Vision  of  St.  Jerome,  D'HuUin  ;  the  Ascension,  Philippe  de  Champagne ;  the 
Burial  of  Christ,  Hutin ;  (over  the  altar)  the  Flight  into  Kgypt,  Vanlno ;  above 
which  is  a  picture  of  Angels,  Lebrun;  the  Trance  of  St.  Anthony,  Parronl 
ef  Avignon;  the  Day  of  Pentecost,  P.  de  Champagne ;  St.  Peter  freed  from  Prison,  De 
la  Fosse;  The  Baptism  of  Christ,  HaU6;  St.  Jerome  Writing,  J.  B.  Champagne; 
Adoration  of  the  Magi,  Bonnieu.  "The  Chapel  on  the  r.  of  the  chief  altar  con- 
tains tlie  relics  of  St.  Clement ;  that  on  the  1.  the  relics  of  St.  Modestus." 

The  Seminary  of  Quebec  was  founded  in  1663  by  M  de  Laval,  who  endowed  it  with 
all  his  great  wealth.  The  first  buildings  were  erected  in  1666,  and  the  present  Semi- 
nary is  composed  of  edifices  constructed  at  different  dates  since  that  time.  In  18(V) 
a  large  part  of  the  quadrangle  was  burnt,  but  it  has  since  been  restored.  In  1704 
there  were  64  teachers  and  students  ;  in  1810  there  were  110 ;  and  there  are  now  over 
400  (exclusive  of  the  Univert^ity  students).  "  When  we  awalie  its  departed  shades, 
they  rise  upon  us  from  their  graves,  in  strange  romantic  guise.  Men  steeped  in 
antique  learning,  pale  with  the  close  breath  of  the  cloister,  here  spent  the  noon  niid 
evening  of  their  lives,  ruled  savage  hordes  with  a  mild  paternal  sway,  and  Etnod 


QUEBEC. 


EwU  68.      263 


le  Car 


Recou- 
Prance. 
:olc  ex- 
ac,  the 
ath  bis 
)ut  the 
I  heart, 
cautifui 
Madame 
ilr  with 

ia, were 
hea  and 
irchaMd 


ilace  of 
Parlia- 

d  covers 
id  quiet 
6  and  Le 
logy  and 
of  litera- 
e  years, 
id  draw- 
peculiar 
the  spot- 
outlined 


le  ancient 

I),  and  you 

le,  with  all 

are  con- 

of  the  en- 
attcndcd 
,  Ouillot; 
hagne;  the 
f,no;  above 
.,  Parrortl 
|Prl?on,  Be 
\ampagne ; 
]  altar  cou- 
h 

red  it  with 
fesent  Seuil- 
Inl865 
In  1704 
now  oviT 
bd  phades, 
jpteepcd  in 
.  noon  niiti 
and  Etood 


wrene  before  the  direat  shapei  of  death.  Men  of  courtly  natares,  heira  to  the  pollah 
of  a  fkr-reaching  ancestry,  here  with  their  dauntless  hardihood  put  to  shune  the 
boldest  sons  of  toil.'* 

The  *  Laval  University  is  between  the  Seminary  gardens  and  the  ram- 
parts, and  may  be  reached  from  St.  Famille  St.  The  main  building  is  280  ft. 
long  and  5  stories  high,  is  built  of  cut  stone,  and  cost  $  225,000.  The  roof  is  a 
flat  sanded  platform,  securely  enrailed,  where  the  students  promenade  and 
enjoy  the  grand  ♦  view  of  the  city,  the  river,  and  the  Laurentian  Mts.  Vis- 
itors are  admitted  to  the  collections  of  the  University  on  application  to  the 
janitor.  The  reception-rooms  contain  the  great  picture  of  the  Madonna  of 
Quebec,  a  portrait  of  Pius  IX. ,  by  Pasqualoni,  and  other  paintings.  The  large 
hall  of  convocation  has  seats  for  2,000,  with  galleries  for  ladies  The  chem- 
ical laboratory  is  a  fire-proof  chamber,  modelled  after  that  of  King's  Col- 
lege, I  ondon;  and  the  dissecting-room  is  spacious  and  well  arranged.  The 
*mmeral  museum  was  prepared  by  the  late  Abb^  Haiiy,  an  eminent 
scientist,  and  contains  specimens  of  the  stones,  ores,  and  minerals  of 
Canada,  with  a  rare  and  valuable  collection  of  crystals.  It  fills  a  long 
series  of  apartments,  from  which  the  visitor  is  ushered  into  the  ethnologi- 
cal and  zoological  cabinets.  Here  are  a  great  number  of  Indian  remains, 
implements,  and  weapons,  and  other  Huron  antiquities;  with  prepared 
specimens  of  Canadian  animals  and  fish.  The  Library  contains  70,000 
volumes  (about  half  of  which  are  French),  arranged  in  two  spacious  halls, 
from  whose  windows  delightful  views  are  obtained.  The  *  Picture-GcU- 
lery  has  lately  been  opened  to  the  public,  and  is  the  richest  in  Canada. 
The  works  are  mostly  copies  from  the  old  mast  s,  though  there  are  sev- 
eral undoubted  originals.  It  is  by  far  the  finest  gallery  N.  of  New  York, 
and  should  be  carefully  studied.  The  visitor  should  also  see  the  brilliant 
collection  of  Canadian  birds;  and  the  costly  philosophical  and  medical 
apparatus,  imported  from  Paris.  The  extensive  dormitories  occupy  sub- 
stantial stone  buildings  near  the  University,  over  the  gardens. 

The  Seminary  was  founded  in  1663  by  Francois  de  Montmorenci  Laval,  first  Bishop 
of  Quebec,  and  has  been  the  central  power  of  the  Catholic  Church  in  this  Province 
for  over  two  centuries.  The  Laval  University  was  founded  in  1852,  and  has  had  the 
privileges  of  a  Catholic  University  accorded  to  it  by  Pope  Pius  IX.  The  processes 
of  study  are  modelled  on  those  of  the  University  of  Louvain.  The  department  of 
arts  has  14  professors,  the  law  has  6,  divinity  has  6,  and  medicine  has  8.  There  are 
also  24  professors  in  the  Minor  Seminary. 

The  Parliament  Building  is  on  the  site  of  Champlain's  fort  and  the  old 
Episcopal  Palace,  and  is  an  extensive  but  plain  building,  whose  glory  has 
departed  since  the  decapitalization  of  Quebec.  The  Legislative  Council 
of  the  Province  meets  in  a  pleasant  hall,  upholstered  and  carpeted  in  crim- 
son, with  a  very  large  throne,  over  which  is  a  canopy  surmounted  by  the 
arms  of  the  United  Kingdom.  There  are  spacious  galleries  for  visitors. 
The  hall  of  the  House  of  Assembly  is  on  the  front  of  the  building,  and  is 
upholstered  in  green.  Back  of  the  speaker's  chair  is  a  line  of  Corinthian 
pilasters  upholding  a  pediment  on  which  are  the  Royal  Arms.    The  *Li- 


264     HouU  68. 


QUEBEC. 


hrary  occnpies  a  lar^e  and  quiet  apartment  on  the  first  floor,  and  is  rich  in 
French-Canadian  literature.  Such  glory  as  was  left  after  the  decapitaliza- 
tion,  hereinbefore  referred  to,  was  conclusively  removed  on  the  night  of 
April  19,  1883,  when  the  old  Parliament  Building  (except  part  of  its  west 
wing)  was  destroyed  by  fire. 

Mountain-Hill  St.  descends  by  the  place  of  the  Prescott  Gate,  to  the 
Lower  Town,  winding  down  the  slope  of  the  cliff.  On  the  r.,  about  ^  of 
the  way  down,  are  the  *  Champlain  Steps,  or  Cote  la  Montagne,  a  steep, 
crowded,  and  picturesque  stairway  leading  down  to  Notre  Dame  des 
Victoires  (see  page  271).  Near  the  foot  of  the  steps  is  a  grating,  over  the 
place  where  the  remains  of  Champlain  were  recently  found,  in  the  vault 
of  an  ancient  chapel.  The  Cote  la  Montagne  has  reminded  one  author 
of  Naples  and  Trieste,  another  of  Venice  and  Trieste,  and  another  of 
Malta. 

The  new  Fost-Offioe  is  a  handsome  stone  building  at  the  comer  of  Baade 

and  Du  Fort  Sts.    In  its  front  wall  is  a  figure  of  a  dog,  carved  in  the  stone 

and  gilded^  under  which  is  the  inscription :  — 

("  I  nm  a  dog  gnawing  a  bone. 
While  I  gnaw  I  talce  my  repose. 
The  time  will  come,  though  not  yet, 
When  I  wiil  bite  him  who  now  bitea  me.") 


"  Je  snis  un  chien  qui  ronge  I'os  ; 
£n  le  rongeant  je  prend  mon  repos. 
Un  temps  vienara  qui  n'est  pas  vena 
Que  je  mordrais  qui  m'aura  mordu." 


This  lampoon  was  aimed  at  the  Intendant  Bigot  by  M.  Pbilibert,  who  had 
Buffered  wrong  from  him,  but  soon  after  the  carved  stone  had  been  put 
into  the  front  of  Philibert's  house,  that  gentleman  was  assassinated  by  an 
officer  of  the  garrison.  The  murderer  exchanged  into  the  East  Indian 
army,  but  was  pursued  by  Philibert's  brother,  and  was  killed,  at  Pondi- 
cherry,  after  a  severe  conflict. 

The  Post-Ofllce  occupies  the  rite  of  the  Grand  Place  of  the  early  French  town,  on 
which  encamped  the  Huron  tribe,  sheltered  by  the  fort  from  the  attacks  of  the  piti- 
less Iroquois.  Here  afterwards  lived  the  beautiful  Miss  Prentice,  with  whom  Nelson 
fell  in  loTe,  so  that  he  had  to  be  forced  on  board  of  his  ship  to  get  him  away.  *'  How 
many  changes  would  have  ensued  on  the  map  of  Europe !  how  many  new  horizons  in 
history,  if  Nelson  had  deserted  the  naval  service  of  his  country  in  1782 !  Without 
doubt.  Napoleon  would  have  given  law  to  the  entire  world.  His  supremacy  on  the 
sea  would  have  consolidated  his  rule  over  the  European  continent ;  and  that  because 
an  amorous  young  naval  offlcer  was  seized  by  a  passion  for  a  bewitching  Canadian 
girl !  "  Near  this  place  the  Duke  of  Clarence,  then  a  subaltern  of  the  fleet,  but 
afterwards  King  William  lY.  of  England,  followed  a  young  lady  home  in  an  un- 
seemly manner,  and  was  caught  by  her  father  and  very  soundly  horsewhipped. 

The  *  Ursnline  Convent  is  entered  from  Garden  St.,  and  is  a  spacious 
pile  of  buildings,  commenced  in  16bd,  and  covering  7  acres  with  its  gardens 
and  offices.  There  are  40  nuns,  who  are  devoted  to  teaching  girls,  and 
also  to  working  in  embroidery,  painting,  and  fancy  articles.  The  parlors 
and  chapel  may  be  visited  by  permission  of  the  chaplain  (whose  office  is 
adjacent);  and  in  the  hitter  are  some  valuable  paintings:  *  Christ  at  the 
Pharisee's  House,  by  Philippe  de  Champagne ;  Saints  Nonus  and  Pelagius, 
Prudhamme ;  the  Saviour  Preaching,  P.  de  Champagne ;  the  Miraculous 
Draught  of  Fish,  Le  Dieu  de  Jouvenet ;  Captives  at  Algiers,  Reitoue ;  St. 


QUEBEC. 


Jtcute  68.     265 


■ich  \n 
taliza- 
ght  of 
s  west 

to  the 
It  I  of 
it  steep, 
me  des 
ver  the 
e  vault 

author 
ither  of 

f  Buade 
he  stone 


bitei  mO 

who  had 
been  put 
id  by  an 
Indian 
Pondi- 


town,  on 
f  the  pitl- 
)m  Nelson 
ly.  *'Hovr 
orizons  in 
Without 
cy  on  the 
!it  because 
Canadian 
fleet,  but 
in  an  un- 
>ped. 


Peter,  BpanUk  School;  and  several  others.  In  the  shrines  are  relics  of  St. 
Clement  Martyr,  and  other  saints  from  the  Roman  catacombs.  Within  a 
grave  made  by  a  shell  which  burst  in  this  chapel  during  the  bombardment 
of  1759  is  buried  **  the  High  and  Mighty  Lord,  Louis  Joseph,  Marquis  of 
Montcalm,"  and  over  his  remains  is  the  inscription,  "Honneur  a  Mont- 
calm !  Le  destin  en  lui  d^robant  de  la  victoire  Ta  r^compens^  par  une 
mort  glorieuse."  Montcalm's  skull  is  carefully  preserved  under  glass,  and 
is  shown  as  an  object  worthy  of  great  veneration. 

V 

The  first  Superior  of  the  Ursuline  Convent  was  Mother  Marie  de  I'Incamation, 
who  was  "  revered  as  the  St.  Teresa  of  her  time."  She  mastered  the  Huron  and 
Algonquin  languages,  and  her  letters  to  France  form  one  of  the  most  valuable  rec- 
ords of  the  early  days  of  Canada.  The  convent  was  founded  in  1639,  when  the  first 
abbess  landed  in  Quebec  amid  the  salutes  of  the  castle-batteries  ;  and  the  special 
work  of  the  nuns  was  that  of  educating  the  Indian  girls.  The  convent  was  burnt 
down  in  1650,  and  again  in  1686,  when  the  Ursulines  were  sheltered  by  the  HApital- 
i^res.  The  Archbishop  has  recently  ordered  that  the  term  of  profession,  shall  m  for 
seven  years,  instead  of  for  life. 

Morrin  College  occupies  a  massive  stone  building  at  the  comer  of 
St.  Anne  and  Stanislas  Sts.,  and  is  the  only  non-Episcopal  Protestant  col- 
lege in  the  Province.  It  was  founded  by  Dr.  Morrin,  and  has  5  professors, 
but  has  had  but  little  success  as  an  educational  institution.  The  build- 
ing was  erected  by  the  Government  in  1810,  for  a  prison ;  and  occupied 
the  site  of  an  ancient  fort  of  Champlain's  era.  It  was  used  as  a  prison 
until  the  new  Penitentiary  was  built,  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  in 
the  N.  wing  are  the  "  sombre  corridors  that  not  long  ago  resounded  with 
the  steps  of  the  jailers,  and  the  narrow  cells  that  are  never  enlivened  by 
aray  of  light." 

The  *  Library  of  the  Quebec  Literary  and  Historical  Society  Is  in  the 
N.  wing  of  Morrin  College,  and  contains  a  rare  collection  of  books  re- 
lating to  Canadian  history  and  science,  in  the  French  and  English  lan- 
guages. This  society  is  renowned  for  its  valuable  researches  in  the  annals 
of  the  old  St.  Lawrence  Provinces,  and  has  published  numerous  volumes 
of  records.  It  includes  in  its  membership  the  leading  literati  of  Eastern 
Canada.  There  is  a  small  but  interesting  museum  connected  with  the 
library-hall. 

St.  Andrew^ a  Churchy  with  its  school  and  manse,  occupy  the  triangle  at 
the  intersection  of  St.  Anne  and  Stanislas  Sts.  It  is  a  low,  quaint  build- 
ing, erected  in  1809  on  ground  granted  by  Sir  James  Craig.  Previously, 
from  the  time  of  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  the  Scottish  Presbyterians  had 
worshipped  in  the  Jesuits'  College.  The  Wealeyan  Church  is  a  comforta- 
ble modem  building,  just  below  Morrin  College;  beyond  which,  on 
Dauphin  St.,  is  the  chapel  of  the  Congregationalists  (Roman  Catholic). 
At  the  corner  of  St.  John  and  Palace  Sts.  (second  story)  is  a  statue  of 
Wolfe,  which  is  nearly  a  century  old,  and  bears  such  a  relation  to  (Quebec 
as  does  the  Mannikin  to  Brussels.  It  was  once  stolen  at  night  by  some 
12 


\  266     Moute  68. 


QUEBEC, 


roystering  naval  officers,  and  carried  off  to  Barbadoes,  whence  it  was  re- 
turned many  months  after,  enclosed  in  a  coffin. 

The  *  Hdtel-Dien  Convent  and  Hospital  is  the  most  extensive  pile  of 
buildings  in  Quebec,  and  is  situated  on  Palace  St.  (r.  side)  and  the  Ram- 
part. E.  of  the  long  ranges  of  buildings  (in  which  650  sick  persons  can  be 
accommodated)  are  pleasant  and  retired  gardens.  The  convent-church  is 
entered  from  Charlevoix  St.,  and  contains  valuable  pictures:  the  Nativity, 
by  Stella;  the  Virgin  and  Child,  Coypel;  the  Vision  of  St.  Teresa,  Mena- 
geot ;  St.  Bruno  in  Meditation,  Le  Stieur  (called  "  the  Raphael  of  France  ") ; 
the  *  Praying  Monk,  by  Zurbaran  (undoubted);  and  fine  copies  of  the 
Twelve  Apostles,  by  Raphael^  and  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Rubens 
(over  the  high  altar). 

The  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded  by  the  Dachesse  d'Aguillon  (niece  of  Cardinal  Riche- 
lieu) in  1G39.  In  1664  one  of  the  present  buildings  was  erected,  and  most  of  it  was 
built  duric^  the  17th  century,  while  Talon,  Baron  des  Islets,  completed  it  in  1762. 
There  are  30-40  cloistered  nuns  of  the  order  of  the  Hopitali^res,  and  the  hospital 
is  open  freely  to  the  sick  and  infirm  poor  of  whatever  sect,  with  attendance  by  the 
best  doctors  ^f  the  city.  The  siaging  of  the  nuns  during  the  Sunday  services  will 
interest  the  visitor. 

The  most  precious  relic  in  the  Hdtel-Dieu  is  a  silver  bust  (in  life  size)  of  Br^beuf, 
in  whose  base  is  preserved  the  skull  of  that  heroic  martyr.  Jean  de  Br^beuf,  a  Nor- 
man Jesuit  of  noble  blood',  arrived  at  Quebec  with  Champlain  in  1633,  and  went  to 
the  Huron  country  the  next  year.  Here  he  had  frequent  celestial  visions,  and 
labored  successfully  in  the  work  of  converting  the  nation.  He  often  said:  "  Sentio 
me  vehementer  impelli  ad  tnoriendum  proChristo  "  ;  and  his  wish  was  gratified  when 
his  mission-town  of  St.  Ignace  was  stormed  by  the  Iroquois  (in  1649)  He  was  bound 
to  a  stake  and  scorched  from  head  to  foot ;  the  savages  cut  away  his  lower  lip,  and 
thrust  a  red-hot  iron  down  his  throat ;  hung  around  his  neck  a  necklace  of  red-hot 
collars  ('*  but  the  indomitable  priest  stood  like  a  rock") ;  poured  boiling  water  over 
his  head  and  face,  in  demoniac  mockery  of  baptism ;  cut  strips  of  flesh  from  his 
limbs,  and  ate  them  before  his  eyes ;  scalped  him ;  cut  open  his  breast,  and  drank 
his  living  blood  ;  filled  his  eyes  with  live  coals  ;  and  after  four  hours  of  torture,  a 
chief  tore  out  his  heart  and  devoured  it.  "  Thus  died  Jean  de  Brebeuf,  the  founder 
of  the  Huron  mission,  its  truest  hero,  and  its  greatest  martyr  He  came  of  a  noble 
race,  —  the  same,  it  is  said,  from  which  sprang  the  English  Earls  of  Arundel ;  but 
never  had  the  mailed  barons  of  his  line  confronted  a  fate  so  appalling  with  so  pro- 
digious a  constancy.  To  the  last  he  refused  to  flinch,  and  '  his  death  was  the  aston- 
ishment of  his  murderers.' "  The  delicate  and  slender  Lalemant,  Br6beuf 's  col- 
league on  the  mission,  wa«  tortured  for  seventeen  hours,  with  the  most  refined  and 
exquisite  varieties  of  torment.  "  It  was  said  that,  at  times,  he  seemed  beside  him- 
self; then,  rallying,  with  hands  uplifted,  he  oflered  his  suflerings  to  Heaven  as  a 
sacrifice."    The  bones  of  Lalemant  are  preserved  at  the  Hotel  Dieu. 

Around,  the  Ramparts. 

*  The  Citadel  is  an  immense  and  powerful  fortification,  covering  40 
acres  of  ground,  and  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  Cape  Diamond  (so  called 
from  the  glittering  crystals  found  in  the  vicinity),  which  is  said  to  be  "  the 
coldest  place  in  the  British  Empire."  Since  the  evacuation  of  Canada  by 
the  Imperial  troops,  the  Citadel  has  been  garrisoned  bj'^  Canadian  militia- 
men, and  visitors  are  usually  permitted  to  pass  around  the  walls  under 
the  escort  of  a  soldier.  The  **view  from  the  most  northerly  bastion 
(which  contains  an  immense  Armstrong  gun)  surpasses  that  from  tlie 
Dufferin  Terrace,  and  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent  in  the  world.    The 


QUEBEC. 


Route  68.      267 


WM  re- 
pile  of 
le  Kam- 

;  can  be 
liarch  is 
lativity, 
I,  Mena- 
■ance"); 
s  of  the 
y  Rubtns 


lal  Klche- 

t  ot  it  was 
it  in  1762. 
le  hospital 
ice  by  the 
jrvices  will 

.f  Br6beuf, 
)euf,aNor- 
Dd  went  to 
isions,  and 
J:  "  Sentio 
itified  when 
i  was  bound 
er  lip,  and 
i  of  red-hot 
water  over 
h  from  his 
and  dranlL 
■  torture,  a 
;he  founder 
>  of  a  noble 
[undel;  but 
[ith  80  pro- 
B  the  aston- 
ibeuf'8  col- 
•eflned  and 
leside  him- 
eaven  as  a 


Lvering  40 
1  (so  called 
to  be  "  tlie 
Vnada  by 
In  militia- 
lalls  under 
ly  bastion 
Ifrom  tlie 
Irld.    Tlie 


St.  Charles  is  seen  winding  through  a  beautiful  undulating  plain,  and  the 
spires  of  Feauport,  Charlesbourg,  and  Lorette,  with  the  white  cottages 
around  them,  form  pleasing  features  in  the  landscrpe.  On  the  S.  of  the 
parade  are  the  officers'  quarters  and  the  bomb-proof  hospital,  while  bar- 
T&cki  and  magazines  are  seen  in  advance.  The  armory  contains  a  great 
number  of  military  curiosities,  but  is  not  always  accessible  to  visitors. 
The  Citadel  is  separated  from  the  town  by  a  broad  glacis,  which  is  brolcen 
by  three  ravelins ;  and  the  wall  on  that  side  contains  a  line  of  casemated 
barracks.  The  entrance  to  the  Citadel  is  by  way  of  a  winding  road  which 
leads  in  from  St.  Louis  St.  through  the  slope  of  the  glacis,  and  enters  first 
the  outer  ditch  of  the  ravelin,  beyond  the  strong  Chain  Gate.  Thence  it 
passes,  always  under  the  mouths  of  cannon,  into  the  main  ditch,  which  is 
faced  with  masonry,  and  at  this  point  opens  into  a  narrow  parade,  over- 
looked by  the  retiring  angles  of  the  bastion.  The  curious  iron-work  of  the 
Chain  Gate  being  passed,  the  visitor  finds  himself  in  an  open  triangular 
parade,  under  the  loopholes  of  the  Dalhousie  Bastion. 

'*  Such  structures  carry  us  back  to  the  Middle  Ages,  the  siege  of  Jerusalem,  and 
St.  Jean  d'Acre,  and  the  days  of  the  Buocaniers.  In  the  armory  of  the  Citadel  they 
showed  me  a  clumsy  implement,  long  since  useless,  which  they  called  a  Lombard 
gun.    I  thought  that  their  whole  Citadel  was  such  a  Lombard  gun,  fit  object  for  the 

museums  of  the  curious Silliman  states  that '  the  cold  is  so  intense  in  the 

winter  nights,  particularly  on  Cape  Diamond,  that  the  sentinels  cannot  stand  it 
more  than  one  hour,  and  are  relieTed  at  the  expiration  of  that  time ;  and  even. 
as  it  is  said,  at  much  shorter  intervals,  in  ca«e  of  the  most  extreme  cold.'  I  shall 
never  again  wake  up  in  a  colder  night  than  usual,  but  I  shall  think  how  rapidly  the 
sentinels  are  relieving  one  another  on  the  walls  of  Quebec,  their  quicksilver  being 
all  frozen,  as  if  apprehensive  that  some  hostile  Wolfe  may  even  then  be  scaling  the 
Heights  of  Abraham,  or  some  persevering  Arnold  about  to  issue  from  the  vdldemess ; 
some  Malay  or  Japanese,  perchance,  coming  round  by  the  N.  W.  coast,  have  chosen 
that  moment  to  assault  the  Citadel.  Why  I  should  as  soon  expect  to  see  the  senti- 
nels still  relieving  one  another  on  the  walls  of  Nineveh,  which  have  so  long  been 
buried  to  the  world.  What  a  troublesome  thing  a  wall  is !  I  thought  it  was  to  de- 
feud  me,  and  not  I  it.  Of  course,  if  they  had  no  walls  they  would  not  need  to  have 
any  sentinels.'*    (Thoreau.) 

The  Citadel  was  formerly  connected  with  the  Artillery  Barracks,  at  the  farther 
end  of  the  city,  by  a  bomb-proof  covered  way  1,837  yards  lopg.    These  fortifications,,, 
are  345  feet  above  the  river,  and  considerably  higher  than  thd  Upper  Town.    The 
rQ<;k  on  which  they  are  founded  is  of  dark  slate,  in  which  are  limpid  quartz-crystuds. 

The  picturesque  walls  of  Quebec  are  of  no  defensive  value  since  the  modern  im- 
provements in  ginnery ;  and  even  the  Citadel  could  not  prevent  dangerous  ap- 
proaches or  a  bombardment  of  the  city.  Skilful  military  engineers  have  therefore 
laid  out  a  more  extensive  system  of  modern  fortifications,  including  lines  of  powerful 
detached  forts  on  the  heights  of  Point  Levi,  and  at  Sillery.  The  former  were  begun 
in  1867,  and  are  nearly  completed ;  but  the  Sillery  forts  are  not  yet  commenced. 

The  spirit  of  utilitarianism,  which  has  levelled  the  walls  of  Frankfort  and  Vienna 
and  is  menacing  Boston  Common,  has  been  attacking  the  ramparts  of  Quebec  for 
manv  years.  The  St.  Louis  and  Prescott  Gates  were  removed  in  1871,  and  the  Pal- 
ace ,.Dd  Hope  Gates  in  1873.  The  better  sentiment  of  the  scholars  and  public  men 
of  the  Province,  headed  by  Lord  Dufferin,  stayed  this  tide  of  so-called  improvement, 
and  started  the  work  of  restoration.  A  magnificent  new  portal  of  masonry,  with 
towers  and  mediaeval  appurtenances,  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate 
ill  1878-79 ;  and  at  the  same  time  another  very  imposing  entrance,  called  Kent 
Gate,  was  opened  between  this  and  St.  John's  Gate.  Other  projects  are  maturing, 
to  still  Airther  enrich  and  beautify  the  ancient  fortress-city,  and  to  erect  a  stately 
palace  for  the  Govemors-Oeneral,  on  the  Citadel. 


268    -A^^  ^* 


QUEBEC. 


The  Esplanade  extends  to  the  r.  from  the  St.  Louis  Gate  (witluii),  and 
the  tourist  is  recommended  to  walk  along  the  rampifHs  to  St.  John's  Gate, 
crossing  the  new  Kent  Gate,  viewing  the  deep  fosse,  the  massive  outworks, 
and  the  antiquated  ordnance  at  the  embrasures.  On  the  r.  are  the  Con- 
gregational (Catholic)  Church,  and  the  National  School;  and  Montcalm's 
Ward  and  the  new  Parliament  Building  are  on  the  I.  *  St.  John's  Oate 
is  a  strong  and  graceful  structure  which  was  erected  in  1869.  While  rally- 
ing his  soldiers  outside  of  this  gate,  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm  was  mortally 
wounded;  and  Col.  Brown  (of  Massachusetts)  attacked  this  point  while 
Arnold  and  Montgomery  were  fighting  in  the  Lower  Town.  To  the  L  is 
St.  John's  Ward  (see  page  269) ;  and  the  road  to  St.  Foy  passes  below.  The 
ramparts  must  be  left  at  this  point,  and  D'Auteuil  and  St.  Helene  Sts. 
follow  their  course  by  the  Artillery  Barracks^  amid  fine  grounds  at  the 
S.  W.  angle  of  the  fortifications.  The  French  garrison  erected  the  most 
important  of  these  buildings  (600  ft.  long)  in  1750,  and  the  British  Govern- 
ment has  since  made  large  additions.  The  barracks  are  now  occupied  by 
^JovernmeAt  works.  On  and  near  St.  Helene  St.  are  several  churches,  — 
St.  Patrick's  (Iri&h  Catholic),  Trinity  (Anglican),  the  Baptist,  and  the  Con- 
gregationaL  i        ,, 

After  crossing  the  wide  and  unsightly  gap  made  by  the  removal  of  the 
Palace  Gate,  the  rambler  may  follow  the  course  of  the  walls  from  the 
Hotel  Dieu  (see  page  266)  to  the  Parliament  Building.  They  occupy  the 
crest  of  the  cliff,  and  command  fine  views  over  the  two  rivers  and  the  Isle 
of  Orleans  and  Lauren  dan  Mts.  The  walls  are  thin  and  low,  but  are  fur- 
nished with  lines  of  loopholes  and  with  bastions  for  artillery.  The  walk 
takes  an  easterly  course  beyond  the  angle  of  the  convent-buildings,  and 
passes  between  the  battlements  and  the  high  walls  of  the  Hotel-Dieu  gar- 
dens for  nearly  500  ft. 

The  streets  which  intersect  tbe  Rampart  beyond  this  point  aro  of  a  quaint  and 
pleasing  character.  One  of  them  is  thus  described  by  Howells :  "  The  thresholds 
and  doorsteps  were  covered  with  the  neatest  and  brightest  oilcloth ;  the  wooden 
sidewalk  was  very  clean,  like  the  steep,  roughly  paved  street  itself;  and  at  the  foot 
Of  the  hill  down  which  it  sloped  waa  a  breadth  of  the  <  ity  wall,  pierced  for  musketry, 
and,  past  the  comer  of  one  of  the  houses,  the  ^alf-length  of  cannon  showing.  It 
had  all  the  charm  of  those  ancient  streets,  dear  to  Old- World  travel,  in  which  the 
past  and  present,  decay  and  repair,  peace  and  war,  have  made  friends  in  an  effect 
that  not  only  wins  the  eye,  but,  however  illogically,  touches  the  heart ;  and  over 
the  top  of  the  wall  it  had  a  stretch  of  landscape  as  I  know  not  what  European 
street  can  command :  the  St.  Lawrence,  blue  and  wide ;  a  bit  of  the  white  village  of 
Beauport  on  its  bank ;  then  a  vast  breadth  of  pale  green,  upward-sloping  meadows ; 
then  the  purple  heights ;  and  the  hazy  heaven  above  them." 

Since  Prescott  Oate  fell,  there  was  "  nothing  left  so  picturesque  and  characteristic 
as  Hope  Oate,  and  I  doubt  if  anywhere  in  Europe'there  is  a  more  mediaeval-looking 
bit  of  military  architecture.  The  heavy  stone  gateway  is  black  with  age,  and  tbe 
gate,  which  has  probably  never  been  closed  in  our  century,  is  of  massive  frame,  set 
thick  with  mighty  bolts  and  spikes.  The  wall  here  sweeps  along  the  brow  of  thr 
erag  on  which  tho  city  is  built,  and  a  steep  street  drops  down,  by  stone- parapete«i 
curves  and  angles  from  the  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town,  where,  in  1775,  nothing  but 
a  narrow  lane  bordered  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  considerable  breadth  of  land  has  since 
been  won  flrom  the  river,  and  sevcrHl  streets  and  many  piers  now  stretch  between 
this  alley  and  the  water ;  but  the  old  Sault  au  Matelot  still  crouches  and  creeps 


QUEBEC. 


Route  68.      269 


a),  and 
s  Gate, 
tworks, 
he  Con- 
itcalm's 
'8  Gate 
le  rally- 
naortally 
at  while 
the  1.  is 
vr.    The 
lene  Sts. 
is  at  the 
the  most 
I  Govern- 
;upied  by 
irches,  — 
ItheCon- 

iral  of  the 
from  the 
pcupy  the 
id  the  Isle 
at  are  fur- 
The  walk 
ings,  and 
pieu  gar- 

Iquaint  and 
I  thresholds 
|the  wooden 
at  the  foot 
musketry, 
lowing.    It 
which  the 
In  an  effect 
and  over 
European 
,  village  of 
meadowd ; 

laracterisUc 
tval-looking 
e,  and  the 
.  frame,  set 
krow  of  tht 
[e-parapeteii 
aotblng  but 
[id  h«8  since 
uh  between 
and  creep* 


along  nnder  the  shelter  of  the  city  wall  and  th^  orerhanf^ng  rock,  whkh  is  thickly 
beaided  with  weeds  and  grass,  and  trickles  with  abundant  moisture.  It  must  be 
an  ice-pit  in  winter,  and  I  should  think  it  the  last  spot  on  the  conticent  for  the 
summer  to  find ;  but  when  the  summer  has  at  last  found  it,  the  old  Sault  au 
Matelot  puts  on  a  vagabond  air  of  Southern  leisure  and  abandon,  not  to  be  matched 
anywhere  out  of  Italy.  Looking  from  that  jutting  rock  near  Hope  Oate,  behind 
which  the  defeated  Americans  took- refuge  from  the  fire  of  their  enemies,  the  vista 
is  almost  unique  for  a  certain  scenic  squalor  and  gypsy  luxury  of  color :  sag-roofed 
bams  and  stables,  weak-backed  and  sunken-chested  workshops  of  every  sort  lounge 
along  in  tumble-down  succession,  and  lean  up  against  the  cliff  in  every  imaginable 
posture  of  worthlessness  and  decrepitude ;  light  wooden  galleries  cross  to  them  from 
the  second  stories  of  the  houses  which  look  back  on  the  alley ;  and  over  these  galleries 
flutters,  firom  a  labyrinth  of  clothes-lines,  a  variety  of  bright-colored  garments  of 
all  ages,  sexes,  and  conditions ;  while  the  footway  underneath  abounds  in  gossiping 
women,  smoking  men,  idle  poultry,  cats,  children,  and  large  indolent  Newfoundland 
dogs."    (HowiXLS^s  A  Chance  Acquaintance.) 

Passing  the  ends  of  these  quiet  streets,  and  crossing  the  gap  caused  by 
the  removal  of  Hope  Gate,  the  Rampart  promenade  turns  to  the  S.,  by  the 
immense  block  of  the  Laval  University  (see  page  263)  and  its  concealed 
gardens.  The  course  is  now  to  the  S.,  and  soon  reaches  the  *  Grand  Bat- 
tery, where  22  32-pounders  command  the  river,  and  from  whose  terrace  a 
pleasing  view  may  be  obtained.  The  visitor  is  then  obliged  to  leave  the 
walls  near  the  Parliament  Building  (see  page  263)  and  the  site  of  the  Pres- 
cott  Gate.  A  short  ddtour  leads  out  again  to  the  Dufibrin  Terrace  (see 
page  259).  Des  Garri^res  St.  runs  S.  from  the  Place  d'Armes  to  the  Oov- 
emor^a  Garden,  a  pleasant  summer-evening  resort,  with  a  monument  65  ft. 
high,  erected  in  1827  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  and  bear- 
ing the  elegant  and  classic  inscription: 

'  :       Mortem.    Virtus.    Communem. 
:      !  Famam.    Historia. 

mokumentum.    posteritas. 
Dedit. 

In  the  lower  garden  is  a  battery  which  commands  the  harbor.  Des 
Carri^res  St.  leads  to  the  inner  glacis  of  the  Gitadel,  and  by  turning  to  the 
r.  on  St.  Denis  St.,  its  northern  outworks  and  approaches  may  be  seen. 
Passing  a  cluster  of  barracks  on  the  r.,  the  Chalmers  Church  is  reached. 
This  is  a  symmetrical  Gothic  building  occupied  by  tbe  Presbyterians,  and 
its  seryices  have  all  the  peculiarities  of  the  old  Scottish  church.  Beyond 
this  point  is  St.  Louis  St.,  whence  the  circuit  of  the  walls  was  begun. 


The  Montcalm  and  St.  John  Wards  extend  W.  on  the  plateau,  from  the 
city-walls  to  the  line  of  the  Martello  Towers.  The  population  is  mostly 
French,  and  the  quarter  is  entered  by  passing  down  St.  John  St.  and 
through  St.  John's  Gate.  Glacis  St.  leads  to  the  r.,  just  beyond  the  walls, 
to  the  Convmt  of  the  Gray  Sisters,  which  has  a  lofty  and  elegant  chapel. 
There  are  about  70  nuns,  whose  lives  are  devoted  to  teaching  and  to 
visiting  the  sick.    This  building  shelters  136  orphans  and  infirm  persons, 


1 1 


I  I 


!  I 


270     BauU  68. 


QUEBEC. 


and  the  sis^'^m  teach  700  female  children.  It  overlooks  the  St.  Charles 
valley,  commanding  fine  views.  Just  nbove  the  nunnery  is  the  Convent 
of  the  Christian  Brothers,  facing  on  the  glacis  of  the  rampart.  A  short 
distance  out  St.  John  St.  is  St.  Matthew's  Church  (Episcopal);  beyond 
which  is  the  stately  Church  of  St.  John  (Catholic),  whose  twin  spires  are 
seen  for  many  leagues  to  the  N.  and  W.  The  interior  is  lofty  and  light, 
and  contains  12  copies  from  famous  European  paintings,  executed  by 
Plamondon^  a  meritorious  Canadian  artist.  Claire-Fontaine  St.  leads  S. 
from  this  church  to  the  Grande  AUee,  passing  just  inside  the  line  of  the 
Martello  Towers;  and  Sutherland  St.,  leading  into  the  Lower  Town,  is  a 
little  way  beyond.  The  St.  Foy  toll-gate  is  about  j^  M.  from  St.  John's 
Church. 

"  Above  St.  John's  Gate,  at  the  end  of  the  street  of  that  name,  devoted  entirely  to 
business,  there  is  at  sunset  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  imaginable.  iThe  riyer 
St.  Charles,  gambolling,  as  it  were,  in  the  rays  of  the  departing  luminary,  the  light 
still  lingering  on  the  spires  of  Lorette  and  Charlesbourg,  until  it  fades  away  beyond 
the  loffcy  mountains  of  Bonhomme  and  Tonnonthuan,  presents  an  evening  scene  of 
gorgeous  ap.d  surpassing  splendor."    (Hawkins.) 

"  A  sunset  seen  from  the  heights  above  the  wide  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  bathing 
In  tender  light  the  long  undulating  lines  of  remote  hills,  and  transfiguring  with  glory 
the  great  chain  of  the  Laurentides,  is  a  sight  of  beauty  to  remain  in  the  mind  for- 
ever."   (Marshall.) 

The  Montcalm  Ward  may  also  be  reached  by  passing  out  St.  Louis  St., 
through  the  intricate  and  formidable  lines  of  ravelins  and  redoubts  near 
the  site  of  the  St.  Louis  Gate.  On  the  r.  is  the  skating-rink,  beyond  which 
are  the  pleasnnt  borders  of  the  Grand  All^e.  The  Convent  of  the  Good 
Shepherd  is  in  this  ward,  and  has,  in  its  church,  a  fine  copy  of  Murillo's 
"  Conception,"  by  Plamondon.  There  are  74  nuns  here,  90  penitents,  and 
600  girl-student  A.  The  dark  and  heavy  mediaeval  structure  on  the  Grand 
Allee  was  built  for  the  Canada  Military  Asylum^  to  take  care  of  the  widows 
and  orphans  of  British  soldiers  who  died  on  the  Canadian  stations.  Near 
the  comer  of  De  Salaberry  St.  is  St,  Bridgets  Asylum,  connected  with  St. 
Patrick's  Church.  The  Ladies'  Protestant  Home  is  nearly  opposite,  and 
is  a  handsome  building  of  white  brick,  where  70  old  men  and  young  girls 
are  kept  from  want  by  the  bounty  of  the  ladies  of  Quebec. 

The  Martello  Towers  are  four  in  number,  and  were  built  outside  the 
extra-mural  wards  in  order  to  protect  them  and  to  occupy  the  line  of 
heights.  They  were  erected  in  1807  - 12,  at  an  expense  of  $  60,000,  and 
are  arranged  for  the  reception  of  7  guns  each.  They  are  circular  in  form, 
and  have  walls  13  ft.  thick  toward  the  country,  while  on  the  other  side  they 
are  7  ft.  thick.  The  new  Jail  is  about  ^  M.  in  advance  of  the  towers,  and 
is  a  massive  stone  building,  with  walls  pierced  for  musketry.  Near  this 
point  (turning  to  the  1.  from  the  Grand  All^e  beyond  ttie  toll-gate),  and  on 
the  edge  of  the  Plains  of  Abraham  (extending  to  the  S.),  is  a  monument 
consisting  of  a  tall  column,  decked  with  trophies,  and  risuig  from  a  square 
base,  oa  which  is  the  inscription: 


QUEBEC. 


EmtU  68.      271 


Charles 
Convent 
A  short 
;  beyond 
pires  are 
nd  light, 
cuted  by 
leads  S. 
ne  of  the 
own,  is  a 
)t.  John's 


L  entirely  to 
l:he  river 
y,  the  light 
way  beyond 
ag  scene  of 

rles,  bathing 
,g  with  glory 
le  mind  for- 


HBRE  DIED 
WOLFE 

victorious. 

Sept.  13. 

1759. 

"The  horror  of  the  night,  the  precipice  scaled  by  Wolfe,  the  empire  he  ^th  a 
handfal  of  men  added  to  England,  and  the  glorious  catastrophe  of  contentedly  ter- 
minating life  where  his  fame  began Ancient  story  may  be  ransauiied,  and 

ostentatious  philosophy  thrown  into  the  account,  before  an  episode  can  be  found  to 
rank  with  Wolfe's.'^   (Wouam  Prrr.) 

The  Lower  Toum. 

The  most  picturesque  approach  from  the  Upper  to  the  Lower  Town  is 
by  tlie  Champlain  Steps  (see  page  264).  This  route  leads  to  the  busiest 
and  most  crowded  part  of  the  old  river  wards,  and  to  the  long  lines  of  steam- 
boat wharves.  Notre  Dame  des  Viotoires  is  in  the  market  square  in  the 
Lower  Town,  and  is  a  plain  old  structure  of  stone,  built  on  the  site  of , 
Champlain's  residence.  It  was  erected  in  1690,  and  was  called  Notre  Dame 
dea  Victoires  to  commemorate  the  deliverance  of  the  city  from  the  English 
attacks  of  1690  and  1711,  in  honor  of  which  an  annual  religious  feast  was 
instituted.  A  prophecy  was  made  by  a  nun  that  the  church  would  be  de- 
stroyed by  the  conquering  British ;  and  in  1759  it  was  burned  during  the 
bombardment  from  Wolfe's  batteries.  S.  of  Notre  Dame  is  the  spacious 
Champlain  Market,  near  an  open  square  on  whose  water-front  the  river- 
steamers  land.  The  narrow  Champlain  St.  may  be  followed  to  the  S., 
under  Cape  Diamond  and  by  the  point  where  Montgomery  fell,  to  the  great 
timber-coves  above. 

St.  Peter  St.  runs  N.  between  the  cliff?  and  the  river,  and  is  the  seat  of 
the  chief  trade  of  the  city,  containing  numerous  banks,  public  offices,  and 
wholesale  houses.  The  buildings  are  of  the  prevalent  gray  stone,  and  are 
massive  and  generally  plain.  The  parallel  lane  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff  is 
the  scene  of  the  flnul  discomfiture  of  the  American  assault  in  1775.  It  is 
named  SauU  au  Matelot,  to  commemorate  the  leap  of  a  dog  from  the  cliff 
above,  near  the  Grand  Battery.  Leadenhali  St.  leads  o£f  on  the  r.  to  the 
great  piers  of  Pointe  a  Carey  and  to  the  imposing  classic  building  of  the 
*  Castom-House,  which  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  St, 
Charles  Rivers.  St.  Paul  St.  runs  W.  from  near  the  end  of  St.  Peter  St., 
along  the  narrow  strip  between  the  St.  Charles  and  the  northern  cliffs,  and 
passes  the  roads  ascending  to  the  Hope  and  Palace  Gates. 

The  Queen's  FueU  Yard  (1.  side)  is  beyond  the  Palace  Market,  and  occupies  the  site 
of  an  immense  range  of  buildings  erected  by  M.  Begon,  one  of  the  later  Royal  In- 
tendants  of  New  France.  Here  also  lived  Bigot  in  all  the  feudal  splendor  of  the  old 
French  noblesse,  on  the  revenues  which  he  extorted  from  the  oppressed  Province. 
In  1775  the  palace  was  captured  by  Arnold's  Virginia  riflemen,  who  so  greatly  an- 
noyed the  garrison  that  the  buildings  were  set  on  fire  and  consumed  by  shells  from 
the  batteries  of  the  Upper  Town.    It  is  now  a  bay  and  cattle  market. 


■  I 
.11 


272      Route  68. 


QUEBEC. 


1 1 


St.  Paul  St.  is  prolonged  by  8t.  Joseph  St.,  the  main  thoroughfSire  of  this 
quarter,  and  the  boundary  between  the  Jaques  Cartier  and  St.  Roch  Warus. 
The  latter  is  occupied  chiefly  by  manufactories  and  shipyards  (on  the 
shores  of  the  St.  Charles);  and  the  narrow  and  plank-paved  streets  of 
Jaques  Cartier,  toward  the  northern  walls,  are  filled  with  quaint  little 
houses  and  interesting  genre  views  about  the  homes  of  the  French-Canadian 
artisans.  St.  Booh's  Church  is  a  very  spacious  building,  with  broad  in- 
terior galleries,  and  contains  several  religious  paintings.  The  Convent  of 
Notre  Dame  is  opposite  St.  Roch's,  and  has  70  nuns  (black  costume),  who 
teach  726  children. 

The  *  Marine  Hospital  is  a  large  and  imposing  modem  building,  in 
Ionic  architecture,  situated  in  a  park  of  six  acres  on  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Charles  River.  The  General  Hospital  and  the  monastery  of  Notre  Dame 
des  Anges  form  an  extensive  pile  of  buildings,  on  St.  Ours  St.,  hear  the 
St.  Charles.  They  were  founded  by  St  Vallier,  second  bishop  of  Quebec 
(in  169S),  for  invalids  and  incurables.  He  spent  100,000  crowns  in  this 
work,  er^ting  the  finest  building  in  Canada  (at  that  time).  It  is  now 
conducted  by  a  superior  and  45  nuns  of  St.  Augustine.  The  convent- 
church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Anges  has  14  paintings  by  Legare,  with  an 
Assumption  (over  the  high  altar)  dating  from  1671. 

Pointe  aux  Liivres,  or  Hare  Point,  is  beyond  the  (leneral  Hospital,  on  the  mend- 
OWB  of  the  St.  Charles.  It  is  Puppo«ed  to  be  the  place  where  the  pious  Franciscan 
monks  founded  the  first  misi^'on  in  Canada.  Jaques  Cartier's  winter-quarters  in 
1536  were  here,  and  on  leaving  this  point  he  carried  off  the  Indian  liing,  Donnacona, 
who  was  afterwards  baptized  with  great  pomp  In  the  magnificent  cathedral  of 
Rouen.  On  this  ground,  also,  the  army  of  Montcalm  tried  to  rally  after  the  disas. 
trous  battle  on  the  Plains  of  Abraham. 

The  suburb  of  the  Banlieue  lies  beyond  St.  Ours  St.,  and  is  occupied  by 
the  homes  of  the  lower  classes,  with  the  heights  toward  St.  Foy  rising  on 
the  S.    St.  Sauveur^s  Church  Is  the  only  fine  building  in  this  quarter. 

Tn  May,  1585,  Jaques  Cartier  with  his  patrician  officers  and  hardy  sailors  attended 
high  mass  and  received  the  bishop's  blessing  in  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Malo,  a'nd  then 
departed  across  the  unlcnown  western  seas.  The  largest  of  his  vessels  was  of  only  120 
tons'  burden,  yet  the  fleet  crossed  the  ocean  safely,  and  ascended  the  broad  St.  Law- 
rence. Having  passed  the  dark  Baguenay  cliffs  and  the  vine-laden  shores  of  the  Isle 
of  Orleans,  he  entered  a  broad  basin  where  "  a  mighty  promontory,  rugged  and 
bare,  thrust  its  scarped  front  into  the  raging  current.  Here,  clothed  in  thernqjepty 
of  solitude,  breathing  the  stern  poetry  of  the  wilderness,  rose  the  clids  now  rich 
with  heroic  memories,  where  the  fiery  Count  Frontenac  cast  defiance  at  his  foes, 
where  Wolfe,  Montcalm,  and  Montgomery  fell.  As  yet  all  was  a  nameless  barbar- 
ism, and  a  cluster  of  wigwams  held  the  site  of  the  rock-built  city  of  Quebec.  Its 
name  was  Stadacone,  and  it  owned  the  sway  of  the  roy&l  Donnacona." 

It  is  held  as  an  old  tradition  that  when  Cartier's  Norman  sailors  first  saw  the 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  they  shouted  "  Quelhee  !  "  ("  What  a  beak !  ")  which 
by  a  natural  elision  has  been  changed  to  Quebec.  Others  claim  that  they  named  the 
place  in  loving  memory  of  Caudebec,  on  the  Seine,  to  which  its  natural  features  bear 
a  magnified  resemblance.  But  the  more  likely  origin  of  the  name  is  from  the  Indian 
word  iteftee,  signifying  a  strait,  and  applied  to  the  comparative  narrowing  of  the  river 
above  the  Basin.  It  is,  however,  held  in  support  of  the  Norman  origin  of  the  name 
that  the  seal  of  William  de  la  Pole,  Earl  of  Suffolk  in  the  15th  century,  bears  the 
title  of  Lord  of  Quebec.  This  noble  had  large  domains  in  France,  and  was  the  vic- 
tor at  Crevant  and  Compeigne,  and  the  conqueror  of  Joan  of  Arc,  but  was  impeached 


QUEBEC. 


Eoute  68.      273 


e  of  this 
iWarus. 
(on  the 
;reet8  of 
int  little 
:!anadian 
>road  in- 
ynvent  of 
me),  who 

ilding,  in 
)f  the  St. 
)tre  Dame 
,  hear  the 
[)f  Quebec 
ns  in  this 
It  is  now 
B  convent- 
•«,  with  an 

>n  the  mead- 
IB  Franciscan 
r-quarters  in 
,  Donnacona, 
lathedral  of 
tr  the  disas- 

scupied  by 

Ly  rising  on 

larter. 

Ilors  attended 
ilo,  ind  then 
j9  of  only  120 
joad  St.  Law- 
Fes  of  the  Isle 
rugged  and 
the  majesty 
as  now  rich 
at  his  foes, 
jless  barbar- 
[Quebec.    Its 

Ifirst  saw  the 
|ak!  ")  which 
ley  named  the 
ifeatuTcs  bear 
Im  the  Indian 
Ig  of  tlie  river 
I  of  the  name 
Iry,  bears  the 
I  was  the  vie- 


and  put  to  death  (aa  narrated  by  Shakespeare,  King  Henry  YI ,  Part  11.,  Act  IT., 

Scene  1)  for  losing  the  English  provinces  in  France  after  84  arduous  campaigns. 

When  Cartier  went  to  Montreal  his  men  built  a  fort  and  pv  ^ared  winter-quarters 
near  the  St.  Charles  River.  Soon  after  his  return  an  inten^ ..  cold  set  in,  and  nearly 
every  man  in  the  fleet  was  stricken  down  with  the  scurvy ,  of  which  many  died  in 
groat  suSTering.  In  the  springtime,  Cartier  planted  the  cross  and  fleur-de-lis  on 
the  site  of  Quebec,  and  returned  to  France,  carrying  King  Donnacona  and  several 
of  his  chiefii  as  prisoners.  These  Indian.s  were  soon  afterwards  received  into  the 
Catholic  Church,  with  much  pomp  and  ceremony,  and  died  within  a  year,  in 
France.  In  1541  Cartier  returned  with  6  vessels  and  erected  forts  at  Cap  Rouge, 
but  the  Indians  were  suspicious,  and  the  colony  was  soon  abandoned.  Soon  after> 
wards  Roberval,  the  Viceroy  of  New  France,  founded  another  colony  on  the  same 
site,  but  after  a  long  and  miserable  winter  it  also  was  broken  up. 

In  the  year  1608  the  city  of  Quebec  was  founded  by  the  noble  Champlain,!  who 
erected  a  fort  here,  and  laid  the  foundations  of  Canada.  A  party  of  Franciscan 
monks  arrived  in  1615,  and  the  Jesuits  came  in  1644.  In  1628  Sir  David  Kirke 
vainly  attacked  the  place  with  a  small  English  fleet,  but  in  1629  he  was  more  suc- 
cessfhl,  and,  after  a  long  blockade,  made  himself  master  of  Quebec.  It  was  restored 
to  France  in  1632 ;  and  in  1635  Governor  Champlain  died,  and  was  buried  in  the 
Lower  Town.  Champlain's  successor  was  Charles  de  Montmagny,  a  brave  and  de- 
vout Knit^ht  of  idtelta,  on  whom  the  Iroquois  bestowed  thv  name  of  Onontio 
("  Great  Mountain '').  The  work  of  founding  new  settlements  and  of  proselyting 
the  Uurons  and  combating  the  Iroquois  was  continued  for  the  next  century  from 
the  rock  of  Quebec. 

After  the  king  had  erected  his  military  colonies  along  the  St.  Lawrence,  he  found 
that  another  element  was  necessary  in  order  to  make  them  permanent  and  progres- 
sive. Therefore,  between  1665  and  1673  he  sent  to  Quebec  1,000  girls,  most  of  whom 
were  of  the  French  peasantry  ;  though  the  Intendant,  mindful  of  the  tastes  of  his 
officers,  demanded  and  received  a  consignment  of  young  ladies  ("  demoiselles  bien 
choisies  ").  These  cargoes  included  a  wide  variety,  from  Parisian  vagrants  to  Nor- 
man ladies,  and  were  maliciously  styled  by  one  of  the  chief  nuns,  "  mixed  goods  " 
(une  marchaiulise  melie).  The  government  provided  them  with  dowries ;  bachelors^ 
were  excluded  by  law  from  trading,  fishing,  and  hunting,  and  were  distinguished  by ' 
''  marks  of  infamy  ";  and  the  French  Crown  gave  bounties  for  children  (each  inhab- 
itant who  had  10  children  being  entitled  to  a  pension  of  from  400  to  800  livres). 
About  the  year  1664  the  city  indulged  in  extraoi^inary  festivities  on  the  occasion 
of  the  arrival  of  the  bones  of  St.  Flavien  and  St.  Felicity,  which  the  Pope  had  pre- 
sented to  the  cathedral  of  Quebec.  These  honored  relics  were  borne  in  solemn  pro- 
cession through  the  streets,  amid  the  sounds  of  martial  music  and  the  roaring  of 
saluting  batteries,  and  were  escorted  by  the  Marqui^<  de  Tracy,  the  Intendant  Talon, 
and  the  valiant  Courcelles,  behind  whom  marched  the  royal  guards  and  the  famous 
Savoyard  regiment  of  Carignan-Salieres,  veterans  of  the  Turkish  campaigns.  The 
diocese  of  Quebec  was  founded  in  1674,  and  endowed  with  the  revenues  of  the  ancient 
abbeys  df  Maubec  and  Benevent.  In  the  same  ship  with  Bishop  Laval  came  Father 
Uennepin,  who  explored  the  Mississippi  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  the  Qulf 
of  Mexico,  and  the  fearless  explorer  La  Salle. 

In  1672  the  Count  de  Frontenao  was  sent  here  aa  Governor,  and  in  1690  he  bravely 
repulsed  an  attack  by  Sir  Wm.  Phipps's  fleet  (f^om  Boston),  inflicting  severe  damage 
by  a  cannonade  from  the  fort.  Besides  many  men,  the  assailants  lost  their  admiral's 
standard  and  several  ships.  In  1711  Sir  Hovenden  Walker  sailed  from  Boston 
against  Quebec,  but  he  lost  in  one  day  eight  ves.sel8  and  884  men  by  shipwreck  on 
the  terrible  reefs  of  the  Egg  Islands.  Strong  fortifications  were  built  soon  after ;  and 
in  1759  Gen.  Wolfe  came  up  the  river  with  8,000  British  soldiers.  The  Marquis  de 
Montcalm  was  then  Governor,  and  he  moved  the  French  army  into  fortified  lines  on 
Beauport  Plains,  where  he  defeated  the  British  in  a  sanguinary  action.  On  the 
night  of  Sept.  12,  Wolfe's  army  drifted  up  stream  on  the  rising  tide,  and  succeeded 
in  scaling  the  steep  cliffs  beyond  the  city.  They  were  fired  upon  by  the  French 
outposts  ;  but  before  Montcalm  could  bring  his  forces  across  the  St.  Charles  the  Brit- 

^  Champlain  was  bom  of  a  good  family  in  the  province  of  Saintonge,  in  1570.  He  became 
a  naval  officer,  and  woa  afterward  attached  to  the  person  of  King  Henri  IV.  In  1003  he  ex- 
plored the  St  Lawrence  River  up  to  the  St  Louia  Rapids,  and  afterward  (until  his  death  in 
1635)  he  explored  the  country  from  Nantucket  to  the  nead-waters  of  the  Ottawa.  He  waa  a 
brave,  merciful,  and  zealous  chief,  and  held  that  "  the  salvation  of  one  sou)  is  of  more  im- 
portance than  the  founding  of  a  new  empire."  He  established  strong  mis«ton«  among  the 
Uurons,  fought  the  Iroquois,  and  founded  Quebec. 


12* 


It 


27i     Haute  68, 


QUEBLU. 


ifh  llnflf  w«r«  Ibnned  npon  the  Plalna  of  Abraham ;  and  In  th«  short  bat  decperata 
battle  which  ensued  both  the  generals  were  mortally  wohnded.  The  EngliBh  lost 
664  men,  and  the  French  lost  1,500.  The  French  army,  which  was  largely  composed 
of  proTincisl  levies  (with  the  regiments  of  La  Qulenne,  Royal  Roussilon,  Beam,  La 
Sane,  and  Languedoe),  gave  way,  and  retreated  across  the  St.  Charles,  and  a  few 
days  later  the  city  surrendered. 

In  April,  1760,  the  Chevalier  de  Levis  (of  that  Levis  family  —  Dukes  of  Yentadonr 
—  which  claimed  to  possess  records  of  their  lineal  descent  from  the  patriarch  Levi) 
led  the  reorganized  French  army  to  St.  Foy,  near  Quebec.  Gen.  Murray,  hoping  to 
lurprise  Levis,  advanced  (with  3,000  men)  from  his  fine  position  on  the  Plains  of 
Abraham ;  but  the  French  were  vigilant,  and  Murray  was  defeated  and  hurled  back 
within  the  city  gates,  having  lost  1,000  men  and  20  cannon.  Levis  now  laid  close 
siege  to  the  city,  and  battered  the  walls  (and  especially  St.  John's  Gate)  from  three 
heavy  field-works.    Quebec  answered  with  an  almost  incessant  cannonade  from  IS2 

Sins,  until  Commodore  Swanton  came  up  the  river  with  a  fleet  from  England.  The 
ritish  supremacy  in  Canada  was  soon  afterwards  assured  by  the  Treaty  of  Paris, 
and  Voltaire  cong^tulated  Louis  XV.  on  being  rid  of"  1,500  leagues  of  frozen  coun> 
try."  The  memorable  words  of  Gov.  Shirley  before  the  Massachusetts  Legislature 
(June  28, 1746), "  Canada  est  delenda,''^  were  at  last  verified,  but  the  campaigns  had 
cost  the  British  Government  9400,000,000,  and  resulted  in  the  loss  of  the  richest  of 
England's  colonies.  For  the  attempted  taxation  of  the  Americans,  which  resulted 
In  the  War  of  Independence,  was  planned  in  order  to  cover  the  deficit  caused  in  the 
British  Treasury  by  the  Canadian  campaigns. 

\n  the  winter  of  1775-6  the  Americans  besieged  the  city,  then  commanded  by  Gen. 
Oay  Carleton  (afterwards  made  Lord  Dorchester).  The  provisions  of  the  besiegers 
began  to  fail,  their  regiments  were  being  depleted  by  sickness,  and  their  light  guns 
made  but  little  impression  on  the  massive  city  walls ;  so  an  assault  was  ordered  and 
conducted  before  dawn  on  Dec.  81, 1775.  In  the  midst  of  a  heavy  snow-storm  Arnold 
advanced  through  the  Lower  Town  from  his  quarters  near  the  St.  Charles  River,  and 
led  his  800  New-£nglanders  and  Virginians  over  two  or  three  barricades.  The  Mon- 
treal Bank  and  several  other  massive  stone  houses  were  filled  with  liritish  regulars, 
who  guarded  the  approaches  with  such  a  deadly  fire  that  Arnold's  men  were  forced 
to  take  refuge  in  the  adjoining  houses,  while  Arnold  himself  was  badly  wounded  and 
carried  to  the  rear.  Meanwhile  Montgomery  was  leading  his  New-Yorkers  and  Con- 
tinentals N.  along  Champlain  St.  by  the  river-side.  The  intention  was  for  the  two 
attacking  columns,  after  driving  the  enemy  from  the  Lower  Town,  to  unite  before 
the  Prescott  Gate  and  carry  it  by  storm.  A  strong  barricade  was  stretched  across 
Champlain  St.  from  the  cliff  to  the  river  ;  but  when  its  guards  saw  the  great  masses 
of  the  attacking  column  advancing  through  the  twilight,  they  fled.  In  all  proba- 
bility Montgomery  would  have  crossed  the  barricade,  delivered  Arnold's  men  by  at- 
tacking the  enemy  in  the  rear,  and  then,  with  1,500  men  flushed  with  victory,  would 
have  escaladed  the  Prescott  Gate  and  won  Quebec  and  Canada,  —  but  that  one  of 
the  fleeing  Canadians,  impelled  by  a  strange  caprice,  turned  quickly  back,  and  fired 
the  cannon  which  stood  loaded  on  the  barricade.  Montgomery  and  many  of  his 
dIBcers  and  men  were  stricken  down  by  the  shot,  and  the  column  broke  up  in 
panic,  and  fled.  The  British  forces  were  now  concentrated  on  Arnold's  men,  who 
were  hemmed  in  by  a  sortie  firom  the  Palace  Gate,  and  426  officers  and  men  were 
made  prisoners.  A  painted  board  has  been  hung  high  up  on  the  cliff  over  the 
place  in  Champlain  St.  where  Montgomery  fell.  Montgomery  was  an  oflicer  in  Wolfe's 
army  when  Quebec  was  taken  from  the  French  15  years  before,  and  knew  the 
ground.  His  mistake  was  in  heading  the  forlorn  hope.  Quebec  was  the  capital  of 
Canada  from  1760  to  1791,  and  alter  that  it  served  as  a  semi-capital,  until  the  found- 
ing of  Ottawa  City.  In  1845, 2,900  houses  were  burnt,  and  the  place  was  nearly 
destroyed,  but  soon  revived  with  the  aid  of  the  great  lumber-trade,  which  is  still  its 
specialty. 

In  September,  1874,  Quebec  was  filled  with  prelates,  priests,  and  enthusiastic 
people,  and  the  second  centennial  of  the  foundation  of  the  diocese  was  celebrated 
with  great  pomp.  Nine  triumphal  arches,  in  Latin,  By  mtine,  Romanesque,  Classic, 
and  Gothic  arehitecture,  were  erected  over  the  f'.  "t  ^  '  the  Upper  Town,  and  dedi- 
cated to  the  metropolitan  dioceses  of  North  America ;  an  imposing  procession  passed 
under  them  and  into  the  Cathedral,  which  was  endowed  on  that  day  with  the  nanie 
and  privileges  of  a  basilica;  and  at  evening  the  city  was  illuminated,  at  a  cost  of 
980,000.  In  the  pageant  was  borne  the  ancient  flag  of  Ticonderoga  (Le  JDrapeau  de 
CqnUon)^  whiph  floated  over  Montcalm's  victorious  army  when  he  defeated  Aber- 


QUEBEC. 


Route  68,      275 


iMperato 
Slish  lost 
iomposed 
(earn,  La 
,nd  a  few 

rentadonr 
Tch  Levi) 
hoping  to 
Plains  of 
irled  back 
laid  close 
rem  three 
>  from  182 
and.  The 
y  of  Paris, 
ozen  coun- 
Legislature 
paigns  had 
s  richest  of 
Bh  resulted 
used  in  the 

dedbyGcn. 
le  besiegers 
r  light  guns 
jrdered  and 
term  Arnold 
js  River,  and 
.    The  Mon- 
sh  regulars, 
vrere  forced 
ivounded  and 
ers  and  Con- 
fer the  two 
unite  before 
tched  across 
great  maseea 
n  all  proba- 
8  men  by  at- 
ictory,  would 
that  one  of 
pk,  and  fired 
[many  of  his 
>roke  up  in 
'B  men,  who 
id  men  were 
[liff  over  the 
:er  in  Wolfe's 
id  knew  the 
le  capital  of 
il  the  found- 
,e  was  nearly 
Ich  is  stiU  its 

enthusiastic 
ks  celebrated 
tque.  Classic, 
(n,and  dtdi- 
lession  passed 
Ith  the  name 
lat  a  cost  of 
!  Drapeau  dt 
tfeated  Aber- 


CTomble  on  Like  ChampUdn  (July  8, 1758),  and  Ii  now  on*  of  the  moit  esteemed 
trophies  of  Quebec.  

The  annals  of  the  Church  contain  no  grander  chapter  than  that  which  records 
the  career  of  the  Canadian  Jesuits.  Unarmed  and  alone,  they  passed  forth  from 
Quebec  and  Montreal, and  traversed  all  the  wide  region  between  Labrador  and  the 
remote  West,  bravely  meeting  death  in  its  most  liugeriug  and  horrible  forms  at 
the  hands  of  the  vindictive  savages  whom  they  came  to  bless.  Their  achievements 
and  their  fate  filled  the  world  with  amazement.  Even  Puritan  New  England, 
proudly  and  sternly  jealous  of  her  religious  liberty,  received  their  envoy  with 
honors;  Boston,  Plymouth,  and  Salem  alike  became  his  gracious  hosts;  and  the 
Apostle  Eliot  entertained  him  at  his  Roxbury  parsonage,  and  urged  him  to  remain. 

'*To  the  Jesuits  the  atmosphere  of  Quebec  was  wellnigh  celestial.  'In  the  cli- 
mate of  New  France,'  they  write,  '  one  learns  perfectly  to  seek  only  one  God,  to 
have  no  desire  but  Qod,  no  purpose  but  for  God.'  And  again :  *  To  live  in  New 
France  is  in  truth  to  live  in  the  bosom  of  God.'  '  If,'  adds  Le  Jeune, '  any  one  of 
those  who  die  in  this  country  goes  to  perdition,  I  think  he  will  be  doubly  guilty.'  " 

"  Meanwhile  from  Old  France  to  New  came  succors  and  reinforcements  to  the 
missions  of  the  forest.  More  Jesuits  crossed  the  sea  to  urge  on  the  work  of  conver- 
sion. These  were  no  stem  exiles,  seeking  on  barbarous  shores  an  asylum  for  a  per- 
secuted faith.  Rank,  wealth,  power,  and  royalty  itself  smiled  on  their  enterprise, 
and  bade  them  God-speed.  Yet,  withal,  a  fervor  more  intense,  a  self-abnegation 
more  complete,  a  self-devotion  more  constant  and  enduring,  will  scarcely  find  its 

record  on  the  pages  of  human  history It  was  her  nobler  and  purer  part  that 

gave  life  to  the  early  missions  of  New  France.  That  gloomy  wilderness,  those 
hordes  of  savages,  had  nothing  to  tempt  the  ambitious,  the  proud,  the  grasping,  or 
the  indolent.  Obscure  toil,  solitude,  privation,  hardship,  and  death  were  to  lie  the 
missionary's  portion 

"  The  Jesuits  had  borne  all  that  the  human  fhune  seems  capable  of  bearing. 
They  had  escaped  as  by  miracle  from  torture  and  death.  Did  their  zeal  flag  or  their 
courage  fail  ?  A  fervor  intense  and  unquenchable  urged  them  on  to  more  distant 
and  more  deadly  ventures.  The  beings,  so  near  to  mortal  sympathies,  so  human, 
yet  so  divine,  in  whom  their  faith  impersonated  and  dramatized  the  great  principles 
of  Christian  faith,  —  virgins,  saints,  and  angels,  —  hovered  over  them,  and  held  be- 
fore their  raptured  sight  crowns  of  glory  and  garlands  of  immortal  bliss.  They 
burned  to  do,  to  suffer,  and  to  die  ;  and  now,  from  out  a  living  martyrdom,  they 
turned  their  heroic  gaze  towards  an  horizon  dark  with  perils  yet  more  appalling,  and 
saw  in  hope  the  day  when  they  should  bear  the  cross  into  the  blood-stained  dens  of 
the  Iroquois. 

In  1647,  when  the  powerful  and  bloodthirsty  Iroquois  were  sweeping  over  Can- 
ada in  all  directions,  the  Superior  of  the  Jesuita  wrote:  "  Do  not  imagine  that  the 
rage  of  the  Iroquois,  and  the  loss  of  many  Christians  and  many  catechumens,  can 
bring  to  naught  the  mystery  of  the  cross  of  Jesus  Christ  and  the  efficacy  of  his 
blood.  We  shall  die ;  we  shall  be  captured,  burned,  butchered :  be  it  so.  Those 
who  die  in  their  beds  do  not  always  die  the  best  death.  I  see  none  of  our  company 
cast  down.  On  the  contrary,  they  ask  leave  to  go  up  to  the  Hurons,  and  some  of 
tiiem  protest  that  the  fires  of  the  Iroquois  are  one  of  their  motives  for  the  journey." 
"  The  iron  Brebeuf^  the  gentle  Gamier,  the  all-enduring  Jogues,  the  enthuRiastio 
Chaumonot,  Lalemant,  Le  Mercier,  Chatelaia,  Daniel,  Pijart,  Rogueneau,  Du  Peron, 
Poiicet,  Le  Moyne,  —  one  and  all  bore  themselves  with  a  tranquil  boldness,  which 

amazed  the  Indians  and  enforced  their  respect When  we  look  for  the  result 

of  these  missions,  we  soon  become  aware  that  the  influence  of  the  French  and  the 
Je.mits  extended  far  beyond  the  circle  of  converts.  It  eventually  modified  and 
softened  the  manners  of  many  unconverted  tribes.  In  the  wars  of  the  next  century 
we  do  not  often  find  those  examples  of  diabolic  atrocity  with  which  the  earlier  an- 
nals are  crowded.  The  savage  burned  his  enemies  alive,  it  is  true,  but  he  seldom 
ate  them ;  neither  did  he  torment  them  with  the  same  deliberation  and  persistency. 
He  was  a  savage  still,  but  not  so  often  a  devil."    (Parkman.) 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  study  more  closely  this  sublime  episode  in  the  New- 
World  history  may  consult  the  brilliant  and  picturesque  historical  narratives  of  Mr. 
Francis  Parkman  :  ".The  Jesuits  of  North  America,"  "The  Pioneers  of  France  in 
tbe  New  \forld,"  and  "  La  Salle  and  the  Discovery  of  the  Great  West."  LeMoine's 
"  Quebec,  Past  and  Present,"  and  '*  Picturesque  Quebec,"  should  also  be  read. 


276     RtmU  69. 


!  r:i 


6i    ) 


BEAUPORT. 


69.  The  Environs  of  Quebec. 


This  district  in  famed  for  its  beautv,  and  is  filled  with  objects  of  interest  to  the 
tourist.  The  suburban  villages  can  be  Tisited  by  pedestrian  tours ;  but  in  that 
case  it  is  best  to  cut  off  communication  with  th»  city,  and  to  sweep  around  on  the 
great  curre  which  includes  the  chief  points  of  attraction.  The  village  inns  furnish 
pooj^  accommodations.  Such  a  walking  tour  should  be  taken  only  after  a  season  of 
dry  weather,  else  the  roads  will  be  found  very  muddy.  But  all  the  world  goes  about 
in  carriages  here,  and  a  caliche  and  driver  can  bu  hired  at  very  low  rates  (fcc  page 
26C).  The  drivers'  statements  of  distances  can  seldom  be  reiied  on,  for  they  gen- 
erally err  on  the  side  ot  expansion. 

"I  don't  know  whether  I  cared  more  for  Quebec  or  the  beautiful  little  villages  in 
the  country  all  about  it.  The  whole  landscape  looks  just  like  a  dream  of  '  Evan- 
geline.' ....  But  if  we  are  coming  to  the  grand  and  beautiful,  why,  there  is  no 
direction  in  which  you  can  look  about  Quebec  without  seeing  it ;  and  it  is  always 
mixed  up  with  something  so  familiar  and  homelike  tliat  my  heart  warms  to  it." 
(HoWfLLs's  A  C/iance  Acquaintance.) 

**  The  Falls  of  Hontmorenoi  are  7  M.  from  the  Dorchester  Bridge, 
which  is  about  1  M.  from  the  Upper-Town  Market  Square.  The  route 
usually  taken  leads  down  Palace  St.  and  by  the  Queen's  Fuel- Yard  (see 
page  271)  and  St.  Roch's  Church.  As  the  bridge  is  being  crossed,  the 
Marine  Hospital  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r.  are  the  shipyards  of  St. 
Boch's  Ward  and  the  suburb  of  St.  Charles.  The  road  is  broad  and  firm, 
and  leads  across  a  fertile  plain,  with  fine  retrospective  views.  The  Beau- 
pot't  Lunatic  Asylum  is  soon  reached,  near  which  is  the  villa  of  Glenalla. 
The  asylum  formerly  consisted  of  two  large  buildings,  one  for  each  sex ; 
but  the  female  department  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  January,  1875,  and 
several  of  its  inmates  were  burnt  with  it.  Beauport  is  8|^  -  6  M.  from 
Quebec,  and  is  a  long-drawn-out  village  ol  1,300  inhabitants,  with  a  tall 
and  stately  church  whose  twin  spires  are  seen  from  a  great  distance. 
There  are  several  flour  and  barley  mills  in  the  parish,  and  a  considerable 
lumber  business  is  done.  The  seigniorj'  was  founded  in  1634  by  the  Sieur 
Giffard,  and  along  its  plains  was  some  of  the  heaviest  fighting  of  the  war 
of  the  Conquest  of  Canada. 

It  is  "  in  that  part  of  Canada  which  was  the  first  to  be  settled,  and  where  the  face 
of  the  country  and  the  people  have  undergone  the  least  change  from  the  beginning, 
where  the  influence  of  the  States  and  of  Europe  is  least  felt,  and  the  inhabitants  see 
little  or  nothing  of  the  world  over  the  walls  of  Quebec."  The  road  from  Quebec  to 
St.  Joachim  is  lined  by  a  continuous  succession  of  the  quaint  and  solid  little  Cana- 
dian houses  of  whitewashed  stone,  placed  at  an  angle  with  the  street  in  order  to 
face  the  south.  The  farms  are  consequently  remarkably  narrow  (sometimes  but  a 
few  yards  wide  and  ^  M.  long),  and  the  country  is  bristling  with  fences.  In  1664 
the  French  king  forbade  that  the  colonists  should  make  any  more  clearings,  "  except 
one  next  to  another  "  ;  but  in  1745  he  was  obliged  to  order  that  their  farms  should 
be  not  less  than  1^  arpents  wide.  These  narrow  domains  arose  from  the  social  char- 
acter of  the  people,  who  were  thus  brought  close  together ;  from  their  need  of  con- 
centration as  a  defence  against  the  Indians ;  and  from  the  subdivision  of  estates  by 
inheritance.  The  Latin  Catholicism  of  the  villagers  is  shown  by  roadside  crosses 
rising  here  and  there  along  the  way. 

So  late  as  1827  Montmorenci  County  (which  is  nearly  as  large  as  Massachusetts) 
had  but  6  shops,  80  artisans,  2  schools,  5  churches  Tall  Catholic),  and  6  vessels  (with 
an  aggregate  of  59  tons).  There  has  been  but  little  change  since.  In  1861,  out  of 
11,186  inhabitant.«  in  the  county,  10,708  were  of  French  origin,  of  whom  but  a  few 
icore  understand  the  English  language. 


MONTMQBENCI  FALLS.        RouU69.      277 


Rt  to  the 

in  that 
d  on  the 
s  furnish 
teasou  of 
)ca  about 
(fcc  page 
hey  gcn- 


^lllngcR  in 
of  « tvan- 
lere  is  no 
;  ia  always 
us  to  it." 

f  Bridge, 
?he  route 
Yard  (see 
)ssed,  the 
irds  of  St. 
and  firm, 
rhe  Beau- 
'  Glenalla. 
leach  sex; 
1875,  and 

M.  from 
with  a  tall 

distance, 
^nsiderable 

the  Sieur 
of  the  war 


icre  the  face 
i  beginning, 
abitants  see 
11  Quebec  to 
little  Cana- 
in  order  to 
times  but  a 
;8.    In  1664 
gs,  ••  except 
irms  should 

social  char- 
iced  of  con- 
[f  estates  by 

[side  crosses 

Issachusetts) 
Vessels  (with 
Il861,outof 
Tmbutafew 


M.  Rameau  {"La  JVoiim  aux  Cotonies^^)  haa  prored,  after  much  labor  and  re- 
search, that  the  colonists  who  settled  the  Cote  de  Beaupro  and  Beauport  were  from 
the  ancient  French  province  of  La  Perche ;  adding  that  Montreal  was  colonised  from 
the  province  of  Apjou,  the  Isle  of  Orleans  from  Poitou,  and  Quebec,  Trois  Rivieres, 
and  the  Richelieu  valley  from  Normandy. 

Beyond  the  church  of  Beauport  the  road  continues  past  the  narrow  do- 
mains on  either  hand,  and  runs  along  the  side  of  the  Haldimand  estate.  The 
Jilontmorenci  River  is  crossed,  and  the  traveller  stops  at  the  Montmorenci 
Restaurant^  where  lunch  may  be  obtained.  At  this  point  admission  is 
given  to  the  grounds  about  the  Falls  (fee,  25c.);  and  the  tourist  sliould 
visit  not  only  the  pavilion  near  the  brink  (which  commands  a  charming 
view  of  Quebec),  but  also  the  small  platform  lower  down  (and  reached  by 
a  long  stairway),  whence  the  best  front-view  is  obtained.  The  descent  to 
the  basin  below  is  diflScult,  and  will  hardly  repay  the  labor  of  the  return. 
A  short  distance  below  the  Falls  is  the  confluence  of  the  Montmorenci 
with  the  St.  Law^rence  snd  immense  saw-mills  are  located  there,  employ- 
ing 7  -  800  men  and  cutting  up  2,500  logs  a  day.  Near  the  Falls  is  Haldi- 
mand House,  formerly  odcupied  by  the  Duke  of  Kent,  Queen  Victoria's 
father;  and  on  the  cliffs  by  the  river  are  seen  the  towers  of  a  suspension- 
bridge  which  fell  soon  after  its  erection,  hurling  three  persons  into  the 
fatal  abyss  below.  At  the  foot  of  these  Falls  an  immense  ice-cone  (some- 
times 200  ft.  high)  is  formed  every  winter,  and  here  the  favorite  sport  of 
tobogganning  is  carried  on.  The  *  Natural  Steps  are  1^  M.  above  the 
Falls,  where  the  Montmorenci  is  contracted  into  a  narrow  limit  and  rushes 
down  with  great  velocity,  having  cut  its  bed  down  through  successive 
strata  and  leaving  step-like  terraces  on  either  side.  Fine  specimens  of 
trilobites  have  been  found  in  this  vicinity. 

The  road  running  on  beyond  the  Montmorenci  Restaurant  leads  to  Ange 
Gardien  and  St.  Anne  (see  Route  70).  The  views  ou  the  way  back  to 
Quebec  are  very  beautiful.  , 

The  old  French  habitans  call  the  Montmorenci  Fall,  La  Vache  ("  The  Cow"),  on 
account  of  the  resemblance  of  its  foaming  waters  to  milk.  Others  attribute  this 
name  to  the  noise  like  the  lowing  of  a  cow  which  is  made  by  the  Fall  during  the 
prevalence  of  certain  winds.  Immediately  about  the  basin  and  along  the  Mont- 
morenci River,  many  severe  actions  took  place  during  Wolfe's  siege  of  Quebec. 
This  river  was  for  a  time  the  location  of  the  picket-lines  of  the  British  and  French 
armies. 

"  It  is  a  very  simple  and  noble  fall,  and  leaves  nothing  to  be  desired It  is  a 

splendid  introduction  to  the  scenery  of  Quebec.  Instead  of  an  artificial  fountain  in 
its  square,  Quebec  has  this  magnificent  natural  waterfall  to  adorn  one  side  of  its 
harbor."    (Thobeao.) 

"  The  effect  on  the  beholder  is  most  delightful.  The  river,  at  some  distance, 
seems  suspended  in  the  air,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy  foam,  and,  contrasted,  as  it  is, 
with  the  black  frowning  abyss  into  which  it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  the  highest  in- 
terest. It  has  been  compared  to  a  white  ribbon,  suspended  iu  the  air  ;  this  com- 
parison does  justice  to  the  delicacy,  but  not  to  the  grandeur  of  the  cataract."   (Snr 

UMAN.) 

"  A  safe  platform  leads  along  the  rocks  to  a  pavilion  on  a  point  at  the  side  of  the 
fell,  and  ou  a  level  with  it.  Here  the  gulf,  nearly  800  ft.  deep,  with  its  walls  of 
chocolate-covered  earth,  and  its  patches  of  emerald  herbage,  wet  with  eternal  spray, 
opens  to  the  St.  Lawrence.    Montmorenci  is  one  of  the  loveliest  water&Us.    In  its 


278     R<mU69, 


INDIAN  LOBETTB. 


I 


general  character  it  beam  some  resemblance  to  the  Piaae-Tache,  in  Switaeriand, 
which,  however,  is  much  smaller.    The  water  is  snow-white,  tinted,  in  the  heavlMt 

Eortions  of  the  fall,  with  a  soft  yellow,  like  that  of  raw  silk.  In  fact,  broken  as  it  is 
y  the  irregular  edge  of  the  rock,  it  reminds  one  of  masses  of  silken,  flossy  skeins, 
continually  overlapping  one  another  as  they  fall.  At  the  bottom,  dashed  upon  a 
pile  of  rocks,  it  shoots  far  out  in  star-like  radii  of  spray,  which  share  the  regular 
throb  or  pulsation  of  the  falling  masses.  The  edges  of  the  fall  flutter  out  into 
iace-Iike  points  and  fringes,  which  dissolve  into  gauze  as  they  descend."  (Batard 
Tatlor.) 

"  The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  present  the  most  majestic  spectacle  in  all  this  vicin- 
ity, and  even  in  the  Province.  The  river  in  its  course  through  a  country  which  is 
covered  with  an  almost  unbroken  forest,  has  an  inconsiderable  flow  of  water  except 
when  swelled  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  or  the  autumnal  rains,  until  it  reaches  the 
precipice,  where  it  is  8  - 10  tathoms  wide.  Its  bed.  being  inclined  before  arriving  at 
this  point,  gives  a  great  velocity  to  the  current,  which,  pushed  on  to  the  verge  of  a 
perpendicular  rock,  forms  a  large  sheet  of  water  of  a  whiteness  and  a  fleecy  appear- 
ance which  resembles  snow,  in  foiling  in  a  chasm  among  the  rocks  [251]  ft.  ImIow. 
At  tho  bottom  there  rises  an  immense  foam  in  undulating  masses,  which,  when 
the  sun  lights  up  their  brilliant  prismatic  colors,  produces  an  inconceivably  bcAuti- 

ftll  effect."     (BOUCHETTE.) 

*'  For  those  who  go  from  Montmorenci  to  Quebec,  the  time  to  be  on  the  road  is 
about  sunset.  The  city,  climbing  up  from  the  great  river  to  the  heights,  on  which 
stands  thecastle,  looks  especially  beautiful  in  the  warm  light  that  then  falls  full  upon 
It,  and  theuevel  rays,  striking  on  the  quaint  old  metal-sheathed  roofs  and  on  all  the 
westward-facing  windows,  light  up  the  town  with  a  diamond-like  sparkling  of  won- 
derfiil  brilliancy."    (White's  Sketches  from  America.) 

*  Indian  Lorette  (small  inn)  is  9  M.  from  Quebec,  by  the  Little  Biver 
Boad.  It  is  an  ancient  village  of  the  Hurons  ("Catholics  and  allies  of 
France*'),  and  the  present  inhabitants  are  a  quiet  and  religious  people  in 
whom  the  Indian  blood  predominates,  though  it  is  never  unmixed.  The 
men  hunt  and  fish,  the  women  make  bead-work  and  moccasons,  and  the 
boys  earn  pennies  by  dexterous  archery.  There  are  60  Huron  families 
here,  and  their  quaint  little  church  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  population 
of  the  parish  is  3,600,  and  the  district  is  devoted  to  farming.  The 
*  Lorette  Falls  are  near  the  mill,  and  are  very  pretty. 

The  best  description  of  Lorette  is  given  in  Howells's  A  Chance  Acquaintance 
(Chap.  XIII.),  from  which  the  following  note  is  extracted  :  "  The  road  to  Lorette  is 
through  St.  John's  Gate,  down  into  the  outlying  meadows  and  rye-fields,  where, 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  swift  St.  Charles,  it  finally  rises  at  Lorette  above  the  level 
of  the  citadel.  It  is  a  lonelier  road  than  that  to  Montmorenci,  and  the  rcattering 
cottages  upon  it  have  not  the  well-to-do  prettiness,  the  operatic  repair,  of  stone-built 
Beauport.    But  they  are  charming,  nevertheless,  and  the  people  seem  to  be  remoter 

from  modern  influences By  and  by  they  came  to  Jeune-Lorette,  an  almost 

ideally  pretty  hamlet,  bordering  the  road  on  either  hand  with  galleried  and  balconied 
little  houses,  from  which  the  people  bowed  to  them  as  they  passed,  and  piously  en- 
closing in  its  midst  the  village  church  and  churchyard.  They  soon  after  reat^hed 
Lorette  itself,  which  they  might  easily  have  known  for  an  Indian  town  by  its  un- 
kempt air,  and  the  irregular  attitudes  in  which  the  shabby  cabins  lounged  along 

the  lanes  that  wandered  through  it The  cascade,  with  two  or  three  succeHsive 

leaps  above  the  road,  plunges  headlong  down  a  steep,  crescent-shaped  slope,  and 
hides  its  foamy  whiteness  in  the  dark-foliaged  ravine  below.  It  is  a  wonder  of 
gracef\il  motion,  of  iridescent  lights  and  delicious  shadows ;  a  shape  of  loveliness  that 
leems  instinct  with  a  conscious  life." 

Charles  Marshall  says,  in  his  "  Canadian  Dominion  "  (London,  1871) :  "  For  pic- 
turesque beauty  the  environs  of  Quebec  vie  with  those  of  any  city  in  the  world. 
....  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the  Lorette  cascades  would  ^ve  fiune  and  for- 
tune to  any  spot  ia  Bngland  or  France ;  yet  here,  dwarfed  by  grander  mUnMt  they 
nmain  oompazatlyely  unknown." 


CHABLESBOUBG. 


jRouU€9,      279 


Betland. 
heavieflt 
1  an  it  ii 
f  Bkeins, 
upon  a 
I  regular 
out  into 
(Baxaxd 

Ws  vicin- 
which  i» 
er  except 
aches  the 
rriving  at 
rerge  of  a 
y  appear- 
ft.  below, 
ich,  -when 
►ly  beauU- 

he  road  is 
,  on  which 
is  full  upon 
I  on  all  the 
ng  of  won- 

ittle  River 
1  allies  of 
people  in 
xed.    The 
s,  and  the 
n  families 
lopulation 
mg.     The 

\equaintanct 
lo  Lorette  ifl 
elds,  where. 
t)ve  the  level 
B  Ecattering 
•  stone-built 
g  be  remoter 
I,  an  almost 
ad  balconied 
piously  en- 
ter reached 
I  by  its  un- 
^nged  along 
"  BucceKslve 
I  slope,  and 
i,  wonder  of 
Wellness  that 

.  «•  For  pic- 

"  the  world. 

ne  and  for- 

B.they 


When  the  French  oame  to  Canada  the  Hurona  were  a  powerfU  nation  on  the 
shores  of  Lakes  Huron  and  Simcoe,  with  82  Tillages  and  20  -  80,000  inhabitantik 
They  received  the  Jesuit  missionaries  gladly,  and  were  speedily  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity.   Many  of  them  wore  their  hair  in  bristling  ridges,  whence  certain  aston- 
ished Frenchmen,  on  first  seeing  them,  exclaimed "  QitelUs  hurts. ' "  ("  What  biwrs* 
he»ds ! ")  and  the  name  of  Huron  supplanted  their  proper  title  of  Ouenrlat  or  Wyan- 
dot,   The  Iroquois,  ur  Five  Nations  (of  New  York),  were  their  mortal  foes,  and  after 
many  years  of  most  barbarous  war&re,  succeeded  in  storming  the  Christian  Huron 
towns  of  St  Joseph,  St.  Ignace,  and  St.  Louis.    The  nation  was  annihilated :  a  few 
of  its  people  fled  to  the  far  West,  and  are  now  known  as  the  Wyandots ;  multitudes 
were  made  slaves  among  the  Iroquois  villages ;  10,000  were  killed  in  battle  or  in  the 
subjugated  towns  ;  and  the  mournful  remnant  fled  to  Quebec.    Hundreds  of  them 
were  swept  away  from  the  Isle  of  Orleans  by  a  daring  Iroquois  raid  ;  the  survivors 
encamped  under  the  guns  of  the  fort  for  10  years,  then  moved  to  St.  Foy ;  and,  about 
the  year  1678,  this  feeble  fragment  of  the  great  Huron  nation  settled  at  Ancienne 
Lorette.    It  was  under  the  care  of  the  Jesuit  Ghaiunonot,  who,  while  a  mere  boy, 
had  stolen  a  small  sum  of  money  and  fled  from  France  into  Lombardy.  In  filth  and 
poverty  he  begged  his  way  to  Ancona,  and  thence  to  Loretto,  where,  at  the  Holy 
House,  he  had  an  angelic  vision.    He  went  to  Rome,  became  a  Jesuit,  and  experi* 
enced  another  miracle  from  Loretto ;  after  which  he  passed  to  the  Huron  mission 
in  Canada,  where  he  was  delivered  from  martyrdom  by  the  aid  of  St.  Michael.    He 
erected  at  Ancienne  Lorette  a  chapel  in  exact  fac-simile  of  the  Holy  House  at  Lo- 
retto; and  here  he  claimed  that  many  miracles  were  performed.    In  1697  the 
Hurons  moved  to  New  Lorette,  "a  wild  spot,  covered  with  th^  primitive  forest, 
and  seamed  by  a  deep  and  tortuous  ravine,  where  the  St.  Cliarles  foams,  white  as  a 
snow-drift,  over  the  black  ledges,  and  where  the  sunshipj  struggles  through  matted 
boughs  of  the  pine  and  the  fir,  to  ba«k  for  brief  mo'aents  on  the  mossy  rocks  or 
flash  on  the  hurrying  waters.    On  a  plateau  beside  th?  torrent,  another  chapel  was 
built  to  Our  Lady,  and  another  Huron  town  sprang  up;  and  here  to  this  day,  the 
tourist  finds  the  remnant  of  a  lost  people,  harmless  weavers  of  baskets  and  sewers 
of  moccasons,  the  Huron  blood  fast  bleaching  out  of  them,  as,  with  every  generation* 
they  mingle  and  &de  away  in  the  French  population  around."    (Parkman.  ) 

Visitors  to  Lorette  are  recommended  to  return  to  Quebec  by  another 
road  from  that  on  which  they  went  out.  Ancienne  Lorette  may  be  reached 
from  this  point,  and  so  may  the  lakes  of  Beauport  and  St.  Charles.  1| 
days'  journey  to  the  N.  is  Lac  Rond,  famous  for  its  fine  hunting  and  fishing. 

Charlesbourg  (Huot's  boarding-house)  is  4  M.  from  Quebec,  on  a  far- 
viewing  ridge,  and  is  clustered  about  a  venerable  convent  and  old  church 
(with  copies  of  the  Last  Communion  of  St.  Jerome  ana  the  Sistine  Ma- 
donna over  its  altars).  It  is  the  chef-lieu  of  the  seigniory  of  Notre  Dame 
des  Anges,  and  its  products  are  lumber  and  oats.  To  this  point  (thea 
known  as  Bourg  Royal)  retired  the  inhabitants  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  in 
1769,  when  ordered  by  Montcalm  to  fall  back  before  the  British.  They 
were  2,500  in  number,  and  were  led  by  their  cur^s.  Pleasant  roads  lead 
from  Charlesbourg  to  Lorette,  Lake  St.  Charles,  Lake  Beauport,  and  Chfir 
teau  Bigot. 

Lake  St.  Charles  is  11  M.  from  Quebec,  and  6  M.  from  Lorette.  It  is 
4  M.  long,  and  its  waters  are  very  clear  and  deep.  The  red  trout  of  this 
lake  are  of  delicate  flavor.    There  is  a  remarkable  echo  from  the  shores. 

"  On  arriving  at  the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  the  spectator  is  delighted  by  the  beauty 

and  picturesque  wildness  of  its  banks Trees  grow  immediately  on  the  borders 

of  the  water,  which  is  indented  by  several  points  advancing  into  it,  and  forming  lit- 
tle bays.  The  lofty  hills  which  suddenly  rise  towards  the  N.,  In  shapes  singultr 
and  diversified,  are  overlooked  by  mountains  which  exalt,  beyond  them,  their  more 
distant  summits."    (Hihiot.) 


280     Jtoute69. 


CHATEAU  BIGOT. 


Ch&teau  Bigot  is  about  7  M.  fcom  Quebec,  by  way  of  Ghaiiesbourg, 
where  the  traveller  turns  to  the  r.  around  the  church,  and  rides  for  2  M. 
along  a  ridge  which  affords  cliarroing  views  of  the  city  on  the  r.  '*  It  is  a 
lovely  road  out  to  ChlLteau  Bigot.  First  you  drive  through  the  ancient 
suburbs  of  the  Lower  Town,  and  then  you  mount  the  smooth,  hard  high- 
way, between  pretty  country-houses,  towards  the  village  of  Charlesbourg, 
while  Quebec  shows,  to  your  casual  backward  glance,  like  a  wondrous 
painted  scene,  with  the  spires  and  lofty  roofs  of  the  Upper  Town,  and  the 
long,  irregular  wall  wandering  on  the  verge  of  the  cliff;  then  the  thronging 
gables  and  chimneys  of  St.  Roch,  and  again  many  spires  and  convent 
walls."  The  ruins  of  the  Chateau  are  only  reached  after  driving  for  some 
distance  through  a  nan'ow  wheel-track,  half  overgrown  with  foliage.  There 
remain  the  gables  and  division-wall,  in  thick  masonry,  with  a  deep  cellar, 
outside  of  which  are  heaps  of  debris,  over  which  grow  alders  and  lilacs. 
The  ruins  are  in  a  cleared  space  over  a  little  brook  where  trout  are 
found;  and  over  it  is  the  low  and  forest-covered  ridge  of  Za  Montague  des 
Ormes.     I 

This  land  was  in  the  Fiefde  la  Triniti,  which  was  granted  about  the  year  1640  to 
M.  Denis,  of  La  Rochelle.  The  ch^tteau  was  built  for  his  feudal  mansion  by  the 
Royal  Intendant  Talon,  Baron  des  Islets,  and  was  afterwards  occupied  by  the  last 
Royal  Intendant,  M.  Bigot,  b  dissolute  and  licentious  French  satrap,  who  stole 
$2,000,000  from  the  treatiury.  The  legend  tells  that  Bigot  used  this  building  ibr  a 
nunting-lodge  and  place  of  revds,  and  that  once,  while  pursuing  a  bear  among  the 
hills,  he  got  lost,  and  was  guided  back  to  the  chateau  by  a  lovely  Algonquin  maiden 
whom  he  had  met  in  the  forest.  She  remained  in  this  building  for  a  long  time,  in 
a  luxurious  boudoir,  and  was  visited  frequently  by  the  Intendant ;  but  one  night 
she  was  assassinated  by  some  unknown  person,  —  either  M.  Bigot's  wife,  or  her  own 
mother,  avenging  the  dishonor  to  her  tribe  (see  "  Chateau  Bigot,"  by  J.  M.  LeMoine, 
sold  at  the  Quebec  bookstores  for  10c. :  also  Ilowells's  A  Chance  Acquaintance, 
Chap.  XII.). 

Sillery  (or  St.  Colomh)  is  3  M.  from  Quebec,  by  the  Grand  AU^e  and 
the  Cap-Rouge  Road  (see  page  270).  After  passing  Wolfe's  Monument, 
the  road  leads  across  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  on  which  were  fought  the 
sanguinary  battles  of  1759  and  1760.  Sillery  is  a  parish  of  3,000  inhab- 
itants, on  whose  river  front  are  17  coves,  where  most  of  the  lumber  of 
Quebec  is  guarded.  The  Convent  of  Jesus-Maria  is  a  new  building  of  great 
size  and  imposing  architecture;  opposite  which  is  the  handsome  Gothic 
school-house  which  was  given  to  this  parish  by  Bishop  Mountain.  In  the 
vicinityof  Sillery  are  several  fine  villas,  amid  ornamental  grounds:  March- 
montj  once  the  home  of  Sir  John  Harvey  and  Bishop  Stewart;  Spencer 
Wbod^  "the  most  beautiful  domain  of  Canada,"  with  a  park  of  80  acres, 
formerly  the  home  of  the  Earl  of  Elgin  and  other  governors,  now  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Province  of  Quebec  ($10,000 
is  voted  annually  for  its  maintenance  by  the  Legislature);  Woodfield, 
founded  by  the  Bishop  of  Samos;  Spencer  Grange,  where  lives  J.  M. 
LeMoine,  the  author  and  antiquarian;  Barc^eld,  Bishop  Mountain's 
former  home;    Catara^ouy,  where  the  British  princes,  Albert  £dw&rd 


CAP  ROUGE. 


Jtoute  69,     281 


and  Alfred,  sojourned;  Benmore,  Col.  Rhodesia  estate;  and  several 
others.  The  beautiful  cemetery  of  Mount  Hermon,  which  was  laid  out 
by  Major  Douglas,  the  planner  of  Greenwood  Cemetery,  is  in  this  vicin- 
ity, and  is  adorned  oy  the  graceful  chapel  of  St.  Michael.  The  people 
of  Sillery  have  recently  (1870)  erected  a  monument,  sustaining  a  mar- 
ble cross,  near  the  place  where  Father  Mass6  was  buried,  in  1646,  in  the 
.  .cient  Church  of  St.  Michael  (which  has  long  since  disappeared).  The 
old  Jesuit  Residence  still  remains,  and  is  a  massive  building  of  stone. 

The  OheTalier  Noel  Brulart  de  Sillery,  Knight  of  Malta,  and  formerly  a  high  offi- 
cer at  the  court  of  Queen  Mario  de  Medicis,  haviug  renounced  the  world,  devoted  his 
vast  rcTenues  to  religiou(«  purposes.  Among  h)3  endowments  was  the  foundation  of 
a  Christian  Algonquin  village  just  above  Queb<,>c,  which  the  Jesuits  named  SUlery, 
in  his  honor.  Here  the  Abenaquis  of  Maine  teamed  the  elements  of  Catholicism, 
which  was  afterwards  unfolded  to  them  in  their  villages  on  the  Kennebec,  by  Father 
Druilletes.  This  worthy  old  clergyman  folloved  them  in  their  grand  hunts  about 
Moosehead  Lake  and  the  northern  forests,  "  with  toil  too  great  to  buy  the  kingdoms 
of  this  world,  but  very  small  as  a  price  for  the  Kingdom  of  Heaven.''  From  the 
mission-house  at  Sillery  departed  Jogues,  Br^beuf,  Lalemant,  and  many  other  heroic 
missionaries  and  martyrs  of  the  primitive  Canadian  Church.  *^  It  was  the  scene  of 
miracles  and  martyrdoms,  and  marvels  of  many  kinds,  and  the  centre  of  the  mis- 
sionary efforts  among  the  Xnd'  is-  Indeed,  few  events  of  the  picturesque  early  his- 
tory of  Quebec  left  it  untouv:>>'  i  .-id  it  is  worthy  to  be  seen,  no  less  for  the  wild 
beauty  of  the  spot  than  for  it  ' :  v  cal  memories.  About  a  league  tvom  the  city, 
where  the  irregular  wall  of  rt  ".  .  o>  which  Quebec  is  built  recedes  from  the  river, 
and  a  grassy  space  s '.retches  between  the  tide  and  the  foot  of  the  woody  steep,  the 
old  mission  and  the  Indian  village  once  stood  ;  and  to  this  day  there  yet  stands  the 
stalwart  frame  of  the  first  Jesuit  Residence,  modernized,  of  course,  and  turned  to 
secular  uses,  but  firm  as  of  old,  and  good  for  a  century  to  come.  All  around  is  a 
world  of  lumber,  and  rafts  of  vast  extent  cover  the  face  of  the  waters  in  the  ample 
cove,  —  one  of  niany  that  indent  the  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A  careless  village 
straggles  along  the  roadside  and  the  river's  margin  ;  huge  lumber-ships  are  loading 
for  Europe  in  the  stream ;  a  town  shines  out  of  the  woods  on  the  opposite  shore ; 
nothing  but  a  friendly  climate  is  needed  to  make  this  one  of  the  most  charming 
scenes  the  heart  could  imagine." 

Cap  Ronge  is  9  M.  from  Quebec,  and  may  be  reached  by  the  road  which 
passes  through  Sillery.  It  is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  with  a  timber- 
trade  and  a  large  pottery ;  and  is  connected  with  Quebec  by  semi-daily 
stages.  The  cape  forms  the  W.  end  of  the  great  plateau  of  Quebec,  which, 
according  to  the  geologists,  was  formerly  an  island,  around  which  the  St. 
Lawrence  flowed  down  the  St.  Charles  valley.  Beyond  Cap  Rouge  are  sev- 
eral very  interesting  villages:  St.  Augustin,  with  its  venerable  church; 
Deschambault ;  and  other  old  French  parishes.  The  mansion  of  RedcUiffe 
IS  on  the  cape,  and  is  near  the  site  where  Jaques  Cartier  and  Roberval 
passed  the  winters  of  1541  and  1542.  On  thti  same  point  batteries  were 
erected  bv  Montcalm  and  Murrav. 

■r  * 

In  returning  from  Cap  Rouge  to  the  city,  it  may  be  well  to  turn  to  the 
1.  at  St.  Albans  and  gain  the  St.  Foy  road.  The  village  of  St.  Foy  is  6 
M.  from  Quebec,  and  contains  many  pleasant  villas  and  mansions.  To  the 
N.  is  the  broad  and  smiling  valley  of  the  St.  Charles,  in  which  may  be 
seen  Andenne  Lorette  (two  inns),  a  lumbering  village  of  8,000  inhabitants, 
on  the  Gosford  Railway,  i^  M.  from  St.  Foy.    Beyond  the  Church  of  St. 


282     Houte  69. 


POINT  LEVI. 


I 


I 


ii; 


^'1 


'h 


% 


Foy  is  the  *  monumental  column,  sunnonnted  by  a  statue  of  BeHona  (pre- 
sented by  Prince  Napoleon),  which  marks  the  site  of  the  fiercest  part  of 
the  Second  Battle  of  the  Plains,  in  which  De  Levis  defeated  Murray  (1760). 
The  monument  was  medicated  with  great  pomp  in  1854,  and  stands  over 
the  grave  of  many  hundreds  who  fell  in  the  fight.  Passing  now  the 
handsome  Finlay  Aiiylum  and  several  villas,  the  suburb  of  St.  John  is 
entered. 

Point  Levi  (or  Levis)  is  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  opposite 
Quebec,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  ferry-boats  running  every  15  min- 
utes. It  has  about  10,000  inhabitants,  with  a  large  and  increasing  trade, 
being  the  terminus  of  the  Quebec  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
of  the  Intercolonial  and  Levis  &  Kennebec  Railways.  On  the  lofty 
plateau  beyond  the  town  are  the  great  forts  which  have  been  erected  to 
defend  Quebec  from  a  second  bombardment  from  this  shore.  They  are 
three  in  number,  1  M.  apart,  solidly  built  of  masonry  and  earth,  with  large 
casern  ces  and  covered  ways ;  and  are  to  be  armed  with  Moncrieff  guns  of 
the  heavifst  calibre.  It  is  said  that  these  forts  cost  $15,000,000, —a 
palpable  exaggeration,  —  but  they  have  been  a  very  expensive  piece  of 
work,  and  are  said  to  be  more  nearly  like  Cherbourg,  the  best  of  modem 
European  fortifications,  than  any  others  in  America.  The  batteries  with 
which  Gen.  Wolfe  destroyed  Quebec,  in  1759,  were  located  on  this  line  of 
heights. 

St.  Joseph  is  2^  M.  from  Point  Levi,  and  transacts  a  large  business  in 
wood  and  timber.  South  Quebec  is  above  Point  Levi,  and  is  closely  con- 
nected with  it.  The  Liverpool  steamers  stop  here,  and  there  are  great 
shipments  of  lumber  from  the  harbor.  The  town  has  3,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  growing  rapidly. 

St,  Romudld  (or  New  Liverpool)  is  5  M.  from  Quebec,  and  adjoins  S. 
Quebec.  It  has  several  factories  and  mills  and  a  large  lumber-trade,  and 
is  connected  with  Quebec  by  semi-daily  steamers.  The  *  Church  of  St. 
Bomaald  is  "the  finest  on  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence,"  and  is  celebrated 
for  its  paintings  (executed  in  1868-9  by  Lamprech  of  Munich). 

In  the  choir  are  the  Nativity,  Crucifixion,  and  Resurrection  of  Christ;  in  the 
Chapel  of  St.  Joseph,  the  Marriage  of  St.  Joseph,  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  Nazareth, 
Jesus  :>iid  the  Doctors,  the  Death  of  St.  Joseph  ;  in  the  Chapel  of  the  Virgin,  the 
Annunciation,  the  Visitation,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  and  the  Presentation  in 
the  Temple.  Above  are  eight  scenes  from  the  life  of  St.  Romuald,  from  his  Conver- 
sion to  bis  Apotheosis.  There  are  16  medallions  on  a  gold  ground,  representing  Sts. 
Peter  and  Paul,  the  Four  Evangelists,  and  five  doctors  of  the  Greek  Church  and 
five  of  the  Latin  Church.  The  altars  wero  der^igned  by  Schneider  of  Munich,  and 
the  statues  were  carved  in  wood  by  Rudmiller  of  Munich. 

The  ♦  Chaudidre  Falls  are  4i  M.  beyond  St.  Romuald,  and  over  9  M. 
fW)m  Quebec.  They  can  only  be  reached  by  walking  a  considerable  dis- 
tance through  the  borde.  ing  fields.  "  The  deep  green  foliage  of  the  woods 
overhanging,  the  roar  of  the  cataract,  and  the  solitude  of  the  place,  espc- 
ofiUly  as  you  emerge  suddenly  from  the  for  jst  fastnesses  on  tha  scene,  pro- 


ENVIRONS  OP  CHARLOTTETOWN.    RouU  70.      283 

duce  a  strong  and  vivid  impression,  not  soon  to  be  forgotten."  Some 
visitors  even  prefer  ttiis  fall  to  that  of  Montmorenci.  Tlie  Chaudi^re  de- 
scends from  Lake  Megantic,  near  tlie  frontier  of  Maine,  traversing  the 
Canadian  gold-fields.  Arnold's  hungry  and  heroic  army  followed  the 
course  of  this  river  from  its  source  to  its  mouth  in  their  arduous  winter- 
march,  in  1776.  The  Chaudi^re  Falls  are  8  M.  from  its  confluence  with 
the  St.  Lawrence,  and  at  a  point  where  the  stream  is  compressed  into  a 
breadth  of  400  ft.  The  depth  of  the  plunge  is  about  185  ft.,  and  the 
waters  below  are  continually  in  a  state  of  turbulent  tossing.  At  the  verge 
of  the  fall  the  stream  is  divided  by  large  rocks,  forming  three  channels,  of 
which  that  on  the  W.  is  the  largest.  The  view  from  the  E.  shore  is  the 
best.  "  The  wild  diversity  of  rocks,  the  foliage  of  the  overhanging  woods, 
the  rapid  motion,  ^\i<i  effulgent  brightness  and  deeply  solemn  sound  of  the 
cataracts,  all  combine  to  present  a  rich  assemblage  of  objects  highly 
attractive,  especially  when  the  visitor,  emerging  from  the  wood,  is  in* 
stantaneously  surprised  by  the  delightful  scene." 


70.  Qnebec  to  La  Bonne  Ste.  Anne.— The  Cote  de  Beanpr6. 

The  steamer  Montmorenci  runs  from  Quebec  to  St  Anne  twice  a  week.  A  bet- 
ter route  is  that  by  land,  through  the  medlseval  hamlets  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupr^. 
Three  days  should  be  devoted  to  the  trip,  —  one  to  go  and  one  to  return,  and  the 
other  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Anne  and  St.  Fer6ol.  Gentlemen  who  understand  French 
will  find  this  district  very  interesting  for  the  scene  of  a  pedestrian  tour.  The  inns 
at  St.  Anne  and  along  the  road  are  of  a  very  humble  character,  resembling  the  way- 
side auberges  of  Brittany  or  Normandy;  but  the  people  are  courteous  and  well- 
disposed. 

Distances. — Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  7  M. ;  Ange  Gardien,  10; 
Chateau  Uicher,  15  ;  St.  Anne,  22  (St.  Joachim,  27  ;  St.  Fereol,  80). 

The  Seigniory  of  the  Cote  de  Beaupre  contains  several  parishes  of  the  N.  shore, 
and  is  tht  most  mountainous  part  of  the  Provinca  It  was  granted  in  1636,  and  is 
at  present  an  appanage  of  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  No  rural  district  N.  of  Mexico 
is  more  quaint  and  medieeval  than  the  Beaupr^  Road,  with  its  narrow  and  ancient 
farms,  its  low  and  niassive  stune  houses,  roadside  crosses  and  chapels,  and  unpro- 
gressive  French  poimlation.  But  few  districts  are  more  beautiful  than  this,  with 
the  broad  St.  Lawrence  on  the  S.,  and  the  garden-like  Isle  of  Orleans ;  the  towers 
of  Quebec  on  the  W.,  and  the  sombre  ridges  of  Cape  Tourmente  and  the  mountains 
of  St.  Anue  and  St.  Fer^l  in  advance.  "  In  the  inhabitant  of  the  Cdte  de  Beaupri 
you  find  the  Norman  peasant  of  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.,  with  his  annals,  his  songs, 
and  his  superstitions."  (Anst  Ferland.  ) 

"Though  all  the  while  we  had  grand  views  of  the  accent  country  far  up  and 
down  the  river,  and,  for  the  mor^  part,  whrjn  we  turned  about,  of  Quebec,  in  the 
horizon  behind  us,  —  an*^  we  never  beheld  it  without  new  surprise  and  admiration, 
—  >et,  throughouc  our  <valk,  the  Great  River  of  Canada  on  our  right  hand  was  the 
main  feature  in  the  landscape,  and  this  expands  so  rapidly  below  the  Isle  of  Orleans, 
and  creates  such  a  breadth  of  level  surface  above  its  waters  in  that  direction,  that, 
looking  down  the  river  as  we  approached  the  extremity  of  that  island,  the  St.  Law- 
rence seemed  to  be  opening  into  the  ocean,  though  we  were  still  about  825  M.  from 
what  can  be  called  its  mouth."  (Tuoread.) 

Quebec  to  the  Montmorenci  Falls,  see  page  276. 

Beyond  the  Falls  the  road  passes  on  over  far-viewing  and  breezy  hills, 
and  between  the  snug  estates  of  the  rural  farmers  with  their  great  bams 
and  exposed  cellars  {caves).    The  village  of  Ange  Oardien  is  guarded  at 


284      MauU  70. 


CHATEAU  BICHEB. 


each  end  by  roadside  oratories,  and  lies  in  a  sheltered  glen  near  the  river. 
It  is  clustered  about  a  venerable  old  church,  in  which  are  paintings  of  the 
Annunciation  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi.  On  its  front  is  a  large  sun- 
dial. This  dreamy  old  parish  has  1,500  inhabitants,  and  dates  from  1678, 
when  it  was  founded  by  Bishop  Laval.  In  1769  it  was  overrun  and  occu- 
pied by  the  famous  British  corps  of  the  Louisbourg  Grenadiers. 

After  ascending  out  of  the  glen  of  Ange  Gardien,  the  road  crosses  ele- 
vated bluffs,  and  on  the  r.  are  rich  and  extensive  inteiTales,  cut  into  nar- 
row strips  by  walls.  They  extend  to  the  margin  of  the  river,  beyond 
which  are  the  white  villages  and  tin-clad  spires  of  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Ch&teaa  Bioher  is  a  compact  and  busy  village  of  2,000  inhabitants, 
over  which,  on  a  bold  knoll,  is  the  spacious  parish-church.  The  views 
from  the  platform  of  this  edifice  are  very  pretty,  including  a  large  area  of 
the  parish,  the  village  of  St.  Pierre  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  distant 
promontory  of  Cape  Diamond.  During  the  hunting  season  the  Ch&teau- 
Rioher  marshes  are  much  frequented  by  Quebec  sportsmen,  who  shoot 
great  numbers  of  snipe,  ducks,  and  partridges.  The  upland  streams  afford 
good  trout-fishing. 

On  a  rocky  promontory  near  Chateau  Richer  vras  the  site  of  the  ancient  Francis- 
can  monastery.  This  massive  stone  bjiilding  was  erected  about  the  year  1695,  and 
was  occupied  by  a  community  of  peaceful  monks.  When  the  British  army  was 
fighting  the  French  near  the  Falls  of  Montmoreuci,  a  detachment  was  sent  here  to 
get  provisions ;  but  the  French  Tillagers,  under  the  influence  of  their  spiritual 
guides,  refused  to  give  aid,  and  fortified  themselves  in  the  monastery.  The  reduc- 
tion of  this  impromptu  fortress  (rave  Gen.  Wolfe  considerable  trouble,  and  it  was 
only  accomplished  hy  sending  against  it  the  valiant  Louisbourg  Grenadiers  and  a 
section  of  artillery.  The  monks  surrendered  after  their  walls  were  well  battered  by 
cannon-shot,  and  were  dispossessed  by  the  troops.  Before  the  bombardment  the 
puish  priest  met  the  English  officers,  and  told  them  that  they  fought  for  their  king, 
and  he  should  be  as  fearless  in  defending  his  people.  The  villagers  made  a  fierce 
sortie  from  the  convent  during  the  siege,  but  were  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  80  killed. 
The  site  of  the  monastery  is  now  occupied  by  the  school  of  the  Sisters  of  Le  Bon 
Pasteur,  and  part  of  its  walls  still  remain. 

The  little  roadside  auberge  called  the  Hotel  Campagne  is  about  1  M.  be- 
yond Ch&teau  Richer.  The  *SauU  a  la  Puce  is  about  2  M.  beyond  the 
village,  and  is  visited  by  leaving  the  road  where  it  crosses  the  Riviere  kla 
Puce,  and  ascending  to  the  1.  by  the  path.  The  stream  leaps  over  a  long 
cliff,  falling  into  the  shadows  of  a  bowery  glen,  and  has  been  likened  to 
the  Cauterskill  Falls. 

"This  fall  of  La  Puce,  the  least  remarkable  of  the  four  which  we  visited  in  this 
vicinity,  we  had  never  heard  of  until  we  came  to  Canada,  and  yet,  so  far  as  1  know, 
there  is  nothing  of  the  kind  in  New  England  to  be  compared  with  it.  Most  travel- 
lers in  Canada  would  not  hear  of  it,  though  they  might  go  so  near  as  to  hear  it" 
(Thoreau.)  There  arc  other  pretty  cascades  farther  up  the  stream,  but  they  are 
difficult  of  access. 

"  The  lower  fall  is  112  ft  in  height,  and  its  banks,  formed  by  elevated  acclivities, 
wooded  to  their  summits,  spread  around  a  solemn  gloom,  which  the  whiteness,  the 
movements,  and  the  noise  of  the  descending  waters  combine  to  make  interesting 

and  attractive The  environs  of  this  river  display ,  in  miniature,  a  succession  of 

xconaatio  tiews.    The  river,  from  about  one  fourth  of  the  height  of  the  mountain, 


LA  BONNE  ST^  ANNE. 


Route  70.      285 


dlselowi  itself  to  the  contemplation  of  the  spectator,  and  delights  his  eye  with  Taried 
masses  of  shining  foam,  which,  suddenly  issuing  from  a  deep  laTine  hollowed  out  by 
the  waters,  glide  down  the  almost  perpendicular  rock,  and  Ibrm  a  splendid  curtain, 
which  loses  Ttnelf  amid  the  foliage  of  surrounding  woods.  Such  is  the  scene  which 
the  foil  of  La  Puce  exhibits."    (Heriot.) 

La  Bonne  St.  Anne  (otherwise  known  as  St.  Anne  du  Nord  and  St. 
Anne  de  Beaupr^)  is  7  M.  beVond  Ch&teau  Richer,  and  is  built  on  a  level 
site  just  above  the  intervales.  It  has  about  1,200  inhabitants,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  the  thousands  of  pilgrims  who  frequent  its  shrine,  and  by  sup- 
plying brick  to  the  Quebec  market.  Immense  numbers  of  wild  fowl 
(especially  pigeons)  are  killed  here  every  year.  There  are  numerous  small 
inns  in  the  narrow  street,  all  of  which  are  crowded  during  the  season  of 
pilgrimage.  On  the  E.  of  the  village  is  the  new  Church  of  St.  Anne,  a 
massive  and  beautiful  structure  of  gray  stone,  in  classic  architecture; 
60,000  pilgrims  visited  the  shrine  in  1882.  The  old  building  of  the 
*  Church  of  St.  Anne  is  on  the  bank  just  above,  and  is  probably  the  most 
highly  venerated  shrine  in  Anglo-Saxon  America.  The  relics  of  St.  Anne 
are  guarded  in  a  crystal  globe,  and  are  exhibited  at  morning  mass,  when 
their  contemplation  is  said  to  have  effected  many  miraculous  cures.  Over 
the  richly  adorned  high  altar  is  a  *  picture  of  St  Anne,  by  the  famous 
French  artist,  LeBrun  (presented  by  Viceroy  Tracy);  and  the  side  altars 
have  paintings  (given  by  Bishop  Laval)  by  the  Franciscan  monk  Lefran- 
gois  (who  died  in  1685).  There  are  numerous  rude  ex-voto  paintings,  rep- 
resenting marvellous  deliverances  of  ships  in  peril,  through  the  aid  of  St. 
Anne ;  and  along  the  cornices  and  in  the  sacristy  are  great  sheaves  of 
crutches,  left  here  by  cripples  and  invalids  who  claimed  to  have  been 
healed  by  the  intercession  of  the  saint.  Within  the  church  is  the  tomb 
of  Philippe  Rdn6  de  Portneuf,  priest  of  St.  Joachim,  who  was  slain,  with 
several  of  his  people,  while  defending  his  parish  against  the  British  troops 
(1759). 

"  Above  all,  do  not  fail  to  make  your  pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  of  St.  Anne 

Here,  when  Aillebout  was  governor,  he  began  with  bis  own  hands  the  pious  work,  and 
a  habitant  of  Beaupr^,  Louis  Quiuiont,  sorely  afflicted  with  rheumatism,  came  grin- 
ning with  pain  to  lay  three  stones  in  the  foundation,  in  honor  probably  of  St.  Annvi, 
St.  .Joachim,  and  their  daughter,  the  Virgin.  Instantly  lie  was  cured.  It  was  buit 
the  beginning  of  a  long  course  of  miracles  continued  more  than  two  centuries,  and 
continuing  still.  Their  fame  spread  far  and  wide.  The  devotion  to  St.  Anne  be- 
came a  distinguishing  feature  of  Canadian  Catholicity,  till  at  the  present  d^y  at 

least  thirteen  parishes  bear  her  name Sometimes  the  whole  shore  was  cov» 

ered  with  the  wigwams  of  Indian  converts  who  had  paddled  their  birch  canoes  from 
the  farthest  wilds  of  Canada.  The  more  fervent  among  them  would  crawl  on  their 
knees  from  the  shore  to  the  altar.  And,  in  our  own  day,  every  summer  a  far  greater 
concourse  of  pilgrims,  not  in  paint  and  feathers,  but  in  cloth  and  millinery,  and  not 
hi  canoes,  but  in  steamboats,  bring  their  ofierings  and  their  vows  to  the  '  Bonne  St. 
Anne.'"    (Parkman.) 

According  to  the  traditions  of  the  Roman  Church,  St.  Anne  was  the  mother  of 
the  Blessed  Virgin,  and  after  her  body  had  reposed  for  some  years  in.  the  cathedral 
at  Jerusalem,  it  was  sent  by  St.  James  to  St.  Lazare,  first  bishop  of  Marseilles.  He, 
in  turn,  sent  it  to  St.  Auspice,  bishop  of  Apt,  who  placed  it  in  a  subterranean 
chapel  to  guard  it  from  profanation  in  the  approaching  heathen  inrcads.  Barbaurian 
hordes  afterwards  swept  over  Apt  and  obliterated  the  church.    700  yean  later, 


286      Itoute  70.     THE  FALLS  OF  ST.  ANNE. 


ObailemilpM  Tisitod  th«  town,  and  while  attending  lerrlee  In  the  cathednl,  Mtentl 
manrellous  incidents  took  place,  and  the  forgotten  remains  of  St.  Anne  were  recoT* 
ered  ftt)m  the  grotto,  whence  a  perpetual  light  was  seen  and  a  d«)liciou8  fragrance 
emanated.  Ever  since  that  day  the  relics  of  the  jaint  have  been  highly  venerated 
in  France.  The  colonists  who  founded  Canada  brought  with  them  this  special  de- 
votion, and  t^rerted  numerous  churches  in  her  honor,  the  chief  of  which  was  St. 
Anne  de  Beaupr^,  which  was  founded  in  1668  by  Gov.  d'Aiilebout  on  the  estate  pre- 
sented by  Etienne  Lcssart.  In  1668  the  cathedral-chapter  of.Carcasson  Kent  to  this 
new  shrine  a  relic  of  St.  Anno  (a  bone  of  the  hand),  together  with  a  lamp  and  a 
reliquary  of  silver,  and  some  fine  paintings.  The  legend  holds  that  a  little  child 
was  thrice  favored  with  heavenly  visions,  on  the  site  of  the  church  ;  and  that,  on 
her  third  appearance,  the  Virgin  commanded  the  little  one  to  tell  the  people  that 
they  should  build  a  church  on  that  spot.  The  completion  of  the  building  was  (sig- 
nalized by  a  remartiablc  miracle.  The  vessels  ascending  the  St.  Lawrence  during 
the  French  domination,  always  fired  o£F  a  saluting  broadside  when  passing  this 
point,  in  recognition  of  their  delivery  from  the  perils  of  the  sea.  Bishop  Laval 
made  St.  Anne's  Day  a  feast  of  obligation  ;  and  rich  ex-voto  gifts  were  placed  in  the 
church  by  the  Intendant  Talon,  the  Marquis  de  Tracy ,  and  M.  d'lberville,  •'  the  Cid  of 
New  France."  For  over  two  centuries  the  pilgrimages  ha.e  been  almost  incessant, 
and  hundreds  of  miraculous  cures  have  been  attributed  to  La  Eonne  Si.  Anne.  Be- 
tween June  and  October,  1874,  over  20,000  pilgrims  visited  the  church,  some  of  whom 
came  from  France  and  some  from  the  United  States.  An  extract  from  a  Lower- 
Canada  newspaper  of  October,  1874,  describes  one  of  the  latest  of  these  curious 
phenomena,  the  curing  of  a  woman  who  had  been  bedridden  for  4  years :  '^  She 
was  placed  in  the  Church  of  St.  Anne,  on  a  portable  bed,  at  6  oVlock  on  Wednesday 
morning.  After  low  mass  she  was  made  to  venerate  the  relics  of  St.  Anne.  A 
grand  mass  was  chanted  a  few  minutes  afterwards.  Toward  the  middle  of  the  divine 
office  the  patient  moved  a  little.  After  the  elevation  she  sat  up.  At  the  termina- 
tion of  the  mass  she  got  up  and  walked  and  made  the  circuit  of  the  church." 

The  Cote  de  Beaupr6  and  the  site  of  St.  Anne  were  granted  by  the  Compagnie  des 
Cents  Associes,  in  1686,  to  the  Sieur  Chefiisiult  de  la  Regnardiere,  who,  however, 
made  but  little  progress  in  settling  this  broad  domain,  and  finally  sold  it  to  Bishop 
Laval.  In  1661,  after  the  fall  of  Montreal,  this  district  was  ravaged  by  the  merciless 
Iroquois,  and  in  1682  St.  Anne  was  garrisoned  by  three  companies  of  French  regu- 
lars. On  the  23d  of  August,  1769,  St.  Anne  was  attacked  by  300  Ilighlanders  and 
Light  Infantry  and  a  company  of  Bangers,  under  command  of  Capt.  Montgomery. 
The  place  was  defended  by  200  villagers  and  Indians,  who  kept  up  so  hot  a  fire  from 
the  shelter  of  the  houses  that  the  assailants  were  forced  to  halt  and  wait  until  a 
flanking  movement  had  been  made  by  the  Rangers.  Many  of  the  Canadians  were 
sMn  during  their  retreat,  and  all  who  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  British  were  put  to 
death.  The  victors  then  burnt  the  village,  saving  only  the  ancient  church,  in 
which  they  made  their  quarters.  A  tradition  of  the  country  says  that  they  set  fire 
to  the  church  three  times,  but  it  was  delivered  by  St.  Anne.  The  following  day 
they  advanced  on  Ch&teau  Richer  and  Ange  Gardien,  burning  every  house  and  barn, 
and  cutting  down  the  fruit  trees  and  young  grain.  They  were  incessantly  annoyed 
by  the  rifles  of  the  countrymen,  and  gave  no  quarter  to  their  prisoners. 

The  *  Falls  of  St.  Anne  are  visited  by  passing  out  from  St.  Anne  on 
the  road  to  St.  Joachim,  as  far  as  the  i.in,  "  like  an  auherge  of  Brittany," 
at  the  crossing  of  the  St.  Anne  Ri\er.  Thence  the  way  leads  up  the  river- 
bank  through  dark  glens  for  8-4  M.,  and  the  visitor  is  conducted  by  a 
gv'de.  In  descending  from  the  plateau  to  the  plain  below,  the  river  forms 
a  cascades  in  a  distance  of  about  a  league,  some  of  which  are  of  rare 
ut  aty,  and  have  been  preferred  even  to  the  Trenton  Falls,  in  New  York. 
The  lower  fall  is  130  ft.  high. 

*'  A  magnificent  spectacle  burst  upon  our  sight.  A  rapid  stream,  breaking  its  way 
through  the  dark  woods,  and  from  pool  to  pool  among  masses  of  jagged  rock,  sud- 
denly cleaves  for  itself  a  narrow  chasm,  over  which  you  may  spring  if  you  have  an 
iron  nerve,  and  then  &ll8,  broken  into  a  thousand  fiintastic  forms  of  spray  along  the 


ST.  JOACHIM.' 


E(mU70.      287 


recoY- 
gnnce 
lerated 
iial  de- 

ms  St. 
te  pre- 
to  thlfl 
I  and  a 
e  chM 
tiat,  on 
)le  that 
was  fig- 
I  during 
ing  this 
p  Laval 
1  in  the 
leCidof 
ceseant, 
ne.    Be- 
of  whom 
t  Lower* 
curious 
s:  "She 
ednesday 
inne.    A 
he  divine 
teriuina- 


tagnie  des 
however, 
;o  Bishop 
merciless 
nch  regu- 
iders  and 
itgomery. 
fire  from 
[it  until  a 
jians  were 
>re  put  to 
lurch,  in 
[ey  set  Are 
iwing  day 
,andharn, 
annoyed 

^nne  on 
kttany," 
the  river- 
ted  by  a 
Ver  forms 
of  rare 
Iw  York. 


Ing  its  way 
rock, 8ud- 
n  have  an 
[along  the 


■tMp  Ihee  of  the  roek.  Into  a  d«ep  gorge  of  bonrid  darknosi.  I  do  not  know  th«  to1> 
nme  oi  water ;  I  forgot  to  guess  the  height, — it  may  be  two  hundred,  feet.  Figures 
are  absurd  in  the  estimate  of  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  a  scone  )ike  tiiis.  I  only 
know  that  the  whole  impression  of  the  scene  was  one  of  the  moct  intense  I  have  ever 
experienced.  The  disposition  of  the  mass  of  broken  waters  is  the  most  gnracefal  con« 
ceivable.  The  irresistible  might  of  the  rush  of  thto  fall,  the  stupendous  upright 
masses  of  black  rock  that  form  the  chasm ;  the  heavy  fringe  of  dark  woods  all 
around;  the  utter  solitariness  and  gloom  of  the  Ecene,  —  all  aid  to  impress' the 
imagination.    An  artist  might  prefer  this  spot  to  Niagara."    (Marshall.) 

"  Here  the  river,  1  -200  ft.  wide,  comes  flowing  rapidly  over  a  rocky  bed  out  of 
that  interesting  wilderness  which  stretches  toward  Hudson's  Bay  and  IHivis's  Straits. 
Ha  Ha  Bay,  on  the  Saguenay,  was  about  100  M.  N.  of  where  we  stood.  Looking  on 
the  map,  I  find  that  the  first  country  on  the  N.  which  bears  a  name  is  that  part  of 
Rupert's  Land  called  East  Main.  This  river,  called  after  the  Holy  Anne,  flowing 
from  such  a  direction,  here  tumbles  over  a  precipice,  at  present  by  three  channels, 
how  far  down  I  do  not  know,  but  far  enough  for  all  our  purposes,  and  to  as  good  a 

distance  as  if  twice  as  far The  falling  water  seemed  to  jar  the  very  rocks,  and 

the  noise  to  be  ever  increasing.  The  vista  was  through  t  narrow  and  deep  cleft  in 
the  mountain,  all  white  suds  at  the  bottom."  From  the  bed  of  the  stream  below 
"  rose  a  perpendicular  wall,  I  will  not  venture  to  say  how  &r,  but  only  tha^;  it  was  - 

the  highest  perpendicular  wall  of  bare  rock  that  I  ever  saw This  precipice  is 

not  sloped,  nor  is  the  material  soft  and  crumbling  slate  as  at  Montmorenci,  but  it 
rises  perfectly  perpendicular,  like  the  side  of  a  mountain  fortress,  and  is  cracked  into 
vast  cubical  masses  or  gray  and  black  rock  shining  with  moisture,  as  if  it  were  tlie 

ruin  of  an  ancient  wall  built  by  Titans Take  it  altogether,  it  was  a  most  wild 

and  rugged  and  stupendous  chasm,  so  deep  and  narrow  where  a  river  had  worn  it- 
self a  passage  through  a  mountain  of  rock,  and  all  around  was  the  comparatively 
untrodden  wilderness."    (Thoreau.) 

The  base  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  is  reached  by  a  road  running  up  the  val- 
ley for  3-5  M.  The  chief  peak  is  2,687  ft.  high,  but  the  v'ew  thence  is 
intercepted  by  trees.  The  Valley  of  St.  Fereol  is  8  M.  from  Si.  Anne,  and 
is  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery.  It  contains  1,100  inhabitants,  and  in 
the  vicinity  are  several  lofty  and  picturesque  cascades.  St.  Tite  dcs  Cap$ 
is  a  village  of  800  inhabitants,  6  M.  from  the  river,  between  Cape  Tour- 
mente  and  the  St.  Fereol  Mts.  The  trouting  in  these  glens  is  very  good, 
and  rare  sport  is  found  at  Ijoke  St.  Joachim,  several  miles  beyond. 

St.  Joachim  is  5  M.  beyond  St.  Anne,  and  is  a  village  of  1,000  inhabi- 
tants, situated  near  the  river,  and  opposite  St.  Francois  d* Orleans.  2  M. 
beyond  this  point  is  the  Chllteau  Bellevue  and  the  farm  of  the  Quebec 
Seminary.  The  summit  of  Cape  Tonrmente  is  about  8  M.  from  the 
chateau,  and  is  sometimes  ascended  for  the  sake  of  its  superb  *  view.  The 
Seminarians  have  kept  a  cross  upon  this  peak  for  the  last  half-century; 
and  in  1869,  44  Catholic  gentlemen,  led  by  the  Archbishop  of  Quebec, 
erected  a  new  one,  25  ft.  high,  and  covered  with  tin. 

The  Ch&teau  Bettevue  is  a  long  and  massive  building  of  limestone,  situated  near 
the  foot  of  Cape  Tourmente,  and  surrounded  by  noble  old  forests,  in  which  are 
shrines  of  St.  Joseph  and  the  Virgin.  The  ch&teau  is  furnished  with  reading  and 
billiard  rooms,  etc. ,  and  's  occupi^  every  summer  by  about  40  priests  and  students 
from  the  Seminary  of  Quebec.  The  neat  Chapel  of  St.  Louis  de  Qonzaga  (the  pro- 
tector of  youth)  is  S.  of  the  ch3lteau. 

Near  this  point  Jaques  Cartier  anchored  in  1535,  and  was  visited  by  the  Indians, 
who  brought  him  presents  of  melons  and  maize.    In  l&tS  Champlain  came  hither 
from  Que^  and  founded  a  settlement,  whose  traces  arj  still  seen.    This  post  was . 
destroyed  by  Sir  David  Kirke's  men  in  1628,  and  the  sett  ers  were  driven  away. 

St.  Joachim  was  occupied  in  August,  1759,  by  150  of  vhe  78th  Highlanders,  who 


i 


288      RouU  71.       THE  ISLE  OF  ORLEANS. 


had  Jnst  marched  down  tht  Iil«  of  Orteani,  through  St.  Pierrs  and  St.  Ftomflle. 
Tbejr  ^rere  engaged  in  the  streets  by  armed  villagers,  and  had  a  sharp  akinnish 
before  the  Cftnadians  were  driven  Into  the  forest,  after  which  the  Scottish  soldiera 
fortified  themselves  in  the  priest's  house,  near  the  church. 

The  site  of  the  seminary  was  occupied  before  1670  by  Bishop  Laval,  who  founded 
here  a  rural  seminary  in  which  the  youth  of  the  peasantry  were  instructed.  They 
were  well  grounded  in  the  doctrine  and  discipline  of  the  Church,  and  were  in- 
structed in  the  mechanic  nrts  and  in  various  branches  of  farming.  This  was  the 
first  "  agricultural  college ' '  in  America.  The  broad  seigniory  of  the  Cdte  de  Beaupr^, 
which  lies  between  St.  Joachim  and  Ceauport,  was  then  an  appanage  of  Bishop 
Laval,  and  was  more  populous  than  Quebec  itself.  "  Above  the  vast  meadows  of 
the  parish  of  St.  Joacbiin,  that  here  border  the  St.  Lawrence,  there  rises  like  an 
island  a  low  flat  hill,  hedged  round  with  forests,  like  the  tonsured  head  of  a  monk. 
It  was  here  that  Laval  planted  his  school.  Across  the  meadows,  a  mile  or  more  dis- 
tant, towers  the  mountain  promontory  of  Cape  Toumiente.  You  may  climb  its 
woody  steeps,  and  from  the  top,  waiHt-deep  in  blueberry -bushes,  survey,  from 
Kamouraska  to  Quebec,  the  grand  Canadian  world  outstretched  below ;  or  mount 
the  neighboring  heights  of  St.  Anne,  where,  athwart  the  gaunt  arms  of  ancient 
pines,  the  river  lies  shimmering  in  summer  haze,  the  cottages  of  the  habitants  are 
strung  like  beads  of  a  rosary  along  the  meadows  of  Beaupr^,  the  shores  of  Orleans 
bask  in  warm  light,  and  far  on  the  horizon  the  rock  of  Quebec  rests  like  a  faint  gray 
cloud ;  or  traverse  the  forest  till  the  roar  of  the  torrent  guides  you  to  the  rocky  sol- 
itude where  it  holds  its  savage  revels Game  on  the  river ;  trout  in  lakes, 

brooks,  and  pools ;  wild  fruits  and  flowers  on  the  meadows  and  mountains ;  a  thou- 
sand resoui^es  of  honest  and  healthful  recreation  here  wait  the  student  emancipated 
firom  books,  but  not  parted  for  a  moment  from  the  pious  influence  that  hangs  about 
the  old  walls  embosomed  in  the  woods  of  St.  Joachim.  Around  on  plains  and  hills 
stand  the  dwellings  of  a  peaceful  peasantry,  ns  diflerent  from  the  restless  population 
of  the  neighboring  States  as  the  denizens  of  some  Norman  or  Breton  viliage."  (Park- 
man.) 

7L  The  Isle  of  Orleans. 

Steam  ferry-boats  leave  Quebec  three  times  daily  for  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  The 
trip  gives  beautiful  views  of  the  city  and  its  marine  environs,  and  of  the  Mont- 
morenci  Falls  and  the  St.  Anne  Mts. 

The  island  is  traversed  by  two  roads.  The  N.  shore  road  passes  from  West  Point 
to  St.  Pierre,  in  5  M. ;  St.  Famille,  14  M. ;  and  St  Francois,  20  M.  The  S.  shore 
road  runs  firom  West  Point  to  Patrick's  Hole,  in  6  M. ;  St.  Laurent,  7^  ;  St.  John, 
13^ ;  St.  Francois,  21.  A  transverse  road  crosses  the  island  from  St  Laurent  to  St. 
Pierre. 

The  Isle  of  Orleans  is  about  Sj  M.  from  Quebec,  and  contains  70  square 
miles  (47,923  acres)  of  land,  being  20  M.  long  and  5^  M.  wide.  The  beau- 
tiful situation  of  the  island,  in  the  broad  St.  Lawrence,  its  picturesque 
heights  and  umbrageous  groves,  its  quaint  little  hamlets  and  peaceful  and 
priir.itive  people,  render  Orleans  one  of  the  most  interesting  districts  of 
the  Lower  Province,  and  justify  its  title  of  "the  Garden  of  Canada." 

The  island  was  called  Mini  go  by  the  Indians,  a  large  tribe  of  whom  lived  here 
and  mrried  on  the  fisheries,  providing  also  a  place  of  retreat  for  the  mainland  tribes 
in  case  of  invasion.  In  1585  Cartier  explored  these  shores  and  the  hills  and  forests 
beyond,  being  warmly  welcomed  by  the  resident  Indians  and  feasted  with  fish, 
honey,  and  melons.  He  speaks  of  the  noble  forests,  and  adds :  ^'  We  found  there 
great  grape-vines,  such  as  we  had  not  seen  before  in  all  the  world  ;  and  for  that  we 
named  it  the  Isle  of  Bacchus."  A  year  later  it  received  the  name  of  the  Isle  of 
Orleans,  in  honor  of  De  Yalois,  Duke  of  Orleans,  the  son  of  Francis  I.  of  France- 
The  popular  name  was  Vhle  des  Sorciers  (Wizards'  Island),  either  on  account  of 
the  marvellous  skill  of  the  natives  in  foretelling  future  storms  and  nautical  events, 
or  else  because  the  superstitious  colouists  on  the  mainland  were  alarmed  at  the 
nightly  movements  of  lights  along  the  insular  shores,  and  attributed  to  d*'monfi  and 
wiiurds  the  dancing  fires  which  were  carried  by  the  Indians  in  visiting  their  fish- 
nsts  during  the  night-tides. 


ST.  PIERRE  D'ORLEANS.       R(mU71.      289 

The  Island  ma  granted  in  1620  to  the  Slear  de  Caen  by  the  Dake  de  Montmorenel, 
Viceroy  of  New  France.  In  1675  this  district  was  formed  into  the  Earldom  of  St. 
Laurent,  and  was  conferred  on  M.  Berthelot,  who  assumed  the  title  of  the  Count  of 
St.  Lawrence.  In  1651  the  N.  part  was  occupied  by  600  Christian  Hurons,  who  had 
taken  refUge  under  the  walls  of  Quebec  from  the  exterminating  Iroquois.  In  1656 
the  Iroquois  demanded  that  they  should  come  and  dwell  in  their  country,  and  upon 
their  refusal  fell  upon  the  Hurons  with  a  force  of  3IJ0  warriors,  devastated  tlie  island, 
and  killed  72  of  the  unfortunate  Christians.  Two  tribes  were  compelled  soon  after 
to  surrender  and  be  led  as  captives  into  the  Iroquois  country,  while  the  Tril)e  of  the 
Cord  left  the  island  and  settled  at  Lorette.  The  Isle  was  overrun  by  Iroquois  in 
1061,  and  in  an  action  with  them  at  Riviere  Maheu,  De  Lauzon,  Seneschal  of  Nevr 
France,  and  ali  his  guards  were  killed,  preferring  to  die  figliting  than  to  surrender 
and  be  tortured.  The  great  cross  of  Argentenay  was  carried  away  and  raised  in  tri- 
umph at  the  Iroquois  village  on  Lake  Onondaga  (New  York). 

For  nearly  a  century  the  Isle  enjoyed  peace  and  prosperity,  until  it  had  2,000  in* 
habitants  with  5,000  cattle  and  rich  and  productive  farms.  Then  came  the  advance 
of  Wolfe's  fleet ;  the  inhabitants  all  fled  to  Charlesliourg ;  the  unavailing  French 
troops  and  artillery  left  these  shores ;  Wolfe's  troops  landed  at  St.  Laurent,  and 
erected  camps,  forts,  and  hospitals  on  the  S.  £.  point ;  and  soon  afterward  the  Brit- 
ish forces  systematically  ravaged  the  deserted  country,  burning  nearly  every  house 
on  the  Isle,  and  destroying  the  orchards. 

The  Isle  is  now  divided  into  two  seigniories,  or  lordships,  whose  revenues  and 
titles  are  vested  in  ancient  French  families  of  Quebec.  The  soil  is  rich  and  di- 
versified, and  its  pretty  vistas  justify  Charlevox's  sketch  (of  1720):  "  We  took  a 
stroll  on  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  whose  cultivated  fields  extend  around  like  a  broad  am- 
phitheatre, and  gracefully  end  the  view  on  every  side.  I  have  found  this  country 
beautiful,  the  soil  good,  and  the  inhabitants  very  much  at  their  ease."  The  agri- 
cultural interest  is  now  declining,  owing  to  the  antique  and  unprogressive  ideas  of 
the  farmers,  who  confine  themselves  to  small  areas  and  neglect  alternation  of  crops. 
The  farms  are  celebrated  for  their  excellent  potatoes,  plums,  apples,  and  for  a  rare 
and  delicious  variety  of  small  cheeses.  The  people  arc  temperate,  generous,  and 
hospitable,  and,  by  reason  of  their  insular  position,  still  preserve  the  primitive 
Norman  customs  of  the  early  settlers  under  Champlain  and  Frontena?.  The  Isle 
and  the  adjacent  shore  of  Beauprihave  been  called  the  nursery  of  Canada,  so  many 
have  l)een  the  emigrants  from  these  swarming  hives  who  have  settled  in  other  parts 
of  the  Provinces. 


St.  Pierre  is  the  village  nearest  to  Quebec  (9  M.),  and  is  reached  by 
ferry-steamers,  which  also  run  to  Beaulieu.  It  has  about  700  inhabitants, 
and  is  beautifully  situated  nearly  opposite  the  Montmorenci  Falls  and 
Ange  Gardien.-  The  first  chapel  was  erected  here  in  1651  by  Pfere  Lale- 
mant,  and  was  used  by  the  Hurons  and  French  in  common.  In  1769  the 
present  church  of  St.  Pierre  was  erected.  On  this  shore,  in  1825,  were 
built  the  colossal  timber-ships,  the  Columbus,  3,700  tons,  and  the  Baron 
Rtnfrew,  3,000  tons,  the  largest  vessels  that  the  world  had  seen  up  to  that 
time. 

The  convent  of  St.  Famille  was  founded  in  1685,  by  the  Sisters  of  the 
Congregation,  and  since  that  time  the  good  nuns  have  educated  the  girls 
of  the  village,  having  generally  about  70  in  the  institution.  The  nunnery 
is  seen  near  the  church,  and  was  built  in  1699,  having  received  additions 
from  time  to  time  as  the  village  increased.  Its  cellar  is  divided  into  nar^ 
row  and  contracted  cells,  whose  design  has  been  long  forgotten.  The 
woodwork  of  the  convent  was  burned  by  Wolfe's  foragers  in  1759,  but  was 
restored  in  1761,  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada.  The  first  church  of  St. 
Famille  was  buUt  in  1671,  and  the  present  church  dates  from  1745.  The 
18  s 


290     MauUri.     ST.  LAURENT  D'ORLEANS. 


Tillage  is  nearly  opposite  Ch&teau  Bicher,  and  commands  fine  views  of  the 
Laorentian  Mts. 

The  Parish  of  St.  FranqoU  includes  the  domain  of  the  ancient  fief  of 
Argentenay,  and  was  formed  in  1678.  In  1683  the  first  church  was  buvit, 
and  the  present  church  dates  from  1736,  and  was  plundered  by  Wolfe's 
troops  in  1769.  The  view  from  the  church  is  very  beautiful,  and  includes 
the  St  Lawrence  to  the  horizon,  the  white  villages  of  the  S.  coast,  and  the 
Isles  of  Madame,  Grosse,  and  Beaux.  On  the  N.  shore,  at  the  end  of  the 
island,  are  the  broad  meadows  of  Argentenay,  where  wild-fowl  and  other 
game  are  sought  by  the  sportsmen  of  Quebec.  This  district  looks  across 
the  N.  Channel  upon  the  dark  and  imposing  ridges  of  the  St.  Anne  Mts.  and 
the  peaks  of  St.  Fer^ol;  and  the  view  from  the  church  is  yet  more  exten- 
sive and  beautiful. 

The  church  of  St.  John  was  built  in  1735,  near  the  site  of  a  chapel 
dating  from  1675,  and  contemporary  with  the  hamlet.  This  parish  is 
famous  for  the  number  of  skilful  river-pilots  which  it  has  furnished.  It 
has  about  1,300  inhabitants,  and  is  the  most  important  parish  on  the  island. 
It  is  nearly  opposite  the  S.  shore  village  of  St.  Michel  (see  page  254). 

St.  Laurent  is  7  M.  from  St.  Jean,  upon  the  well-settled  royal  road. 
The  parish  is  entered  after  crossing  the  Bivi^re  Maheu,  where  the  Seneschal 
of  New  France  fell  in  battle.  The  Church  of  St.  Laurent  is  a  stately 
edifice  of  cut  stone  with  a  shining  tin  roof,  and  is  113  ft.  in  length.  It  re- 
placed churches  of  1675  and  1697,  and  was  consecrated  in  1861.  The 
Boute  des  Pretres  runs  N.  from  St.  Laurent  to  St.  Pierre,  and  was  so  named 
60  years  ago,  when  this  church  had  a  piece  of  St.  Paul's  arm-bone,  which 
was  taken  away  to  St.  Pierre,  and  thence  was  stolen  at  night  bj'  the  St. 
Laurent  people.  After  long  controversy,  the  Bishop  of  Quebec  ordered 
that  each  church  should  restore  to  the  other  its  own  relics,  which  was 
done  along  this  road  by  large  processions,  the  relics  being  exchanged  at 
the  great  black  cross  midway  on  the  road,  li  M.  W.  of  St.  Laurent  is 
the  celebrated  haven  called  Trou  St.  Patrice  (since  1689),  or  Patrick's 
Hohj  where  vessels  seek  shelter  in  a  storm,  or  outward-bound  ships  await 
orders  to  sail.  The  river  is  14  M.  wide  here,  and  there  are  10  - 12  fathoms 
of  water  in  the  cove.  2  M.  W.  of  this  point  is  the  Caveme  de  Bontemps, 
a  grotto  about  20  ft.  deep  cut  in  the  solid  rock  near  the  level  of  the  river. 


QUEBEC  TO  THE  SAGUENAY.    JtouU  79,      291 


of  the 

Hef  of 

bmlt, 
Volfe's 
icludes 
ind  the 

of  the 
i  other 
\  across 
Its.  and 
)  exten- 

,  chapel 
larish  is 
hed.  It 
e  island. 

'al  road. 
,eneschal 
a  stately 
Itre- 
1.     The 
,0  named 
e,  which 
the  St. 
ordered 
[hich  was 
langed  at 
,urent  is 
*atricl:'» 
ps  await 
fathoms 

,e  river. 


7Sl    Qaebeo  to  Cacouna  and  the  Sagnenay  River.  ~  The 
North  Shore  of  the  St  lAwrence. 

The  St.  Lawrence  Steam  Navijiration  Company  has  seTpral  flrst-clans  steamen  ply« 
ing  on  the  lower  reaches  of  the  river.  The  time-table  below  is  that  of  1874  ;  but  if 
any  changes  have  been  made,  they  may  be  seen  in  the  Quebec  newspapers,  or  at  the 
ticket-ofRve,  opposite  the  St.  Louis  Hotel. 

At  7  A.M.,  on  Tuesday  and  Friday,  the  Saguenay  leaves  Quebec  for  St.  Paurs 
Bay,  Les  l*iboulement8,  Murray  Bay,  Riviere  du  Loup  (Cacouna),  Tndourac,  Ha  Ha 
Bay,  and  ChicoutimI ;  reaching  Quebec  again  on  Thursday  nnd  Monday  mornings. 

On  Wednesday,  Thursday,  and  Saturday  the  Union  or  the  SK.  Lawrence  leaves 
Quebec  at  7  a.  m.,  for  Murray  Bny,  Riviere  du  Loup,  Tadousac,  and  Ha  Ua  Bay ; 
reaching  Quebec  the  second  morning  after. 

On  Saturday  the  St.  Lawrence  leaves  Quebec,  at  noon,  for  Murray  Bay,  F^viiie 
du  Loup,  and  Rimouski ;  reaching  Quebec  again  on  Tuesday  morning. 

DiBtnnces.  —  Quebec  to  St.  Laurent,  12  M. ;  St.  John  (Orleans),  17;  Isle  Ma- 
dame, 23;  Cape  Tourmente,  28 ;  St.  Francois  Xavier.  45;  St.  Paul's  Bay,  66;  Ijes 
Eboulements,  66 ;  Murray  Bay,  82 ;  Riviere  Du  Loup,  112  (Cacouna,  118) :  Tadoumc, 
184(Chicouthnl,235). 

The  S.  shore  is  described  in  Soute  67  (pages  246-255),  and  the  Isle  of 
Orleans  in  Route  71.  As  the  steamer  moves  down  across  the  Basin  of 
Quebec,  beautiful  *  views  are  afforded  on  all  sides,  including  a  fascinating 
retrospect  of  the  lofty  fortress. 

"  Behind  us  lay  the  city,  with  its  tinned  roofi  glittering  in  the  morning  sunshine, 
and  its  citadel-rock  ^'><%'ering  over  the  river ;  on  the  southern  shore,  Point  Levi, 
picturesquely  climbing  the  steep  bank,  embowered  in  dark  trees  ;  then  the  wooded 
bluffs  with  their  long  levels  of  furm-laud  behind  them,  and  the  scattered  cottages  of 
the  habitants,  while  northward  the  shore  ro«c  with  a  gradual,  undulating  sweep, 
glittering,  far  inland,  with  houses,  and  gardens,  and  crowding  villages,  until  it 

reached  the  dark  stormy  line  of  the  Laurentiau  Mts.  in  the  N.  E The  sky,  the 

air,  the  colors  of  the  landscape,  were  from  Norway ;  Quebec  and  the  surrounding 
villages  suggested  Normandy,  —  except  the  tin  roofs  and  spires,  which  were  Russian, 
rather;  while  here  and  there,  though  rarely,  were  the  marks  of  English  occupancy. 
The  age,  the  order,  the  apparent  stability  and  immobility  of  society,  as  illustrated 
by  external  things,  belonged  decidedly  to  Europe.  This  part  of  America  is  but  70 
or  80  years  older  than  New  England,  yet  there  seems  to  be  a  difference  of  500  years." 
(Batard  Tatlor.) 

After  running  for  17  M.  between  the  populous  shores  and  bright  villages 
of  Orleans  and  Bellechasse  (see  page  254),  the  steamer  turns  to  the  N.  E., 
when  off  St.  John,  and  goes  toward  Cape  Tourmente,  passing  between  Isle 
Madame  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans.  Then  St.  Francois  is  passed,  on  the  1., 
and  the  meadows  of  Argentenay  are  seen,  over  which  is  &c.  Joachim.  As 
the  N.  Channel  is  opened,  a  distant  view  of  St.  Anne  de  Beaupr^  may  be 
obtained,  under  the  frowning  St.  Anne  Mts.  Cape  Tourmente  (see  page 
287)  is  now  passed,  beyond  which  are  the  great  Laurentian  peaks  of  Cape 
Rouge  and  Cope  Gribaune,  over  ^,000  ft.  high,  and  impinging  so  closely  on 
the  river  that  neither  road  nor  houses  can  be  built.  These  mountains  are 
of  granite,  and  are  partially  wooded.  8  M.  N.  E.  of  Cape  Tourmente  is  a 
lighthouse,  175  ft.  above  the  water,  on  the  rugged  slope  of  Cape  Rouge. 
A  few  miles  to  the  E.  is  the  SatUt  au  Cochon^  under  the  crest  of  a  mountain 
2,370  ft.  high. 


292     Jtoute  79. 


ST.  PAUL'S  BAY. 


Boucher  asserted,  in  1668,  that  the  shore  between  Cape  Tourmente  and  Tadousao 
Tras  uninhabitaUe,  *'  being  too  lofty,  and  all  rocky  and  escarped."  Bat  the  French 
Canadians,  hardy  and  tireless,  and  loving  the  St.  Lawrence  more  than  the  Normans 
love  the  Seine,  have  founded  numerous  hamlets  on  the  rocks  of  this  iron  shore.  The 
coast  between  St.  Joachim  and  St.  Francois  Xavier  is  a.s  yet  unoccupied. 

"  We  ran  along  the  bases  of  headlands,  1,COO  to  1,500  ft.  in  height,  wild  and  dark 
with  lowering  clouds,  gray  with  rain,  or  touched  with  a  golden  transparency  by  the 
sunshine,  —  alternating  belts  of  atmospheric  effect,  which  greatly  increased  their 
beauty.  Indeed,  all  of  us  who  saw  the  Lower  St.  Jjawrence  for  the  first  time  were 
surprised  by  the  imposing  character  of  its  scenery."    (Bayard  Tatlor.) 

Bej'ond  Abattis  and  the  high  cliffs  of  Cape  Maillard  the  steamer  pa.sses 
the  populous  village  of  St.  Frangois  Xavier,  extending  up  the  valley  of  the 
Bouchard  River.  On  the  S.  a  long  line  of  picturesque  islets  is  passed 
(see  page  254).  Bej'^ond  Cape  Labaie  the  steamer  lies  to  off  St.  Paul's 
Bay,  whose  unique  and  beautiful  scenery  is  seen  from  the  deck. 

St.  Paul'tt  Bay  (two  small  inns)  is  a  parish  of  4,000  inhabitants,  situ- 
ated amid  the  grandest  scenery  of  the  N.  shore.  The  people  are  all  French, 
and  the  village  is  clustered  about  the  church  and  convent  nenr  the  Gouffre 
River.  In  the  vicinity  are  found  iron,  plumbago,  limestone,  garnet-rock, 
and  curious  saline  and  sulphurous  springs.  It  is  claimed  that  "no  parish 
offers  so  much  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  the  poet,  or  the  naturalist."  The 
wild  and  turbulent  streams  that  sweep  down  the  valley  have  carried  away 
all  the  bridges  which  have  been  erected  by  the  people.  Passengers  who 
wish  to  land  at  this  point  are  transferred  from  the  steamer  to  a  large  sail- 
boat. 

The  vistas  up  the  valleys  of  the  Gouffre  and  the  Moulin  Rivera  show  distant 
ranges  of  picturesque  blue  mountains,  with  groups  of  conical  Alpine  peaks.  In  1791 
It  is  claimed  that  the  shores  of  the  bay  were  shaken  by  earthquakes  for  many  days, 
after  which  one  of  the  peaks  to  the  N.  belcheJ  forth  great  volumes  of  smoke  and 
passed  into  the  volcanic  state,  emitting  columns  of  flame  through  several  days.  The 
peaks  are  bare  and  white,  with  sharp  precipices  near  the  summit.  The  valley  of 
the  Qoufire  has  been  likened  to  the  Vale  of  Clwyd,  in  Wales,  and  is  traversed  by  a 
feir  road  along  the  r.  bank  of  the  rapid  river.  10  - 12  M.  from  the  bay  are  the  ex- 
tensive deposits  of  magnetic  iron-ore  which  were  explored  by  order  of  Intendant 
Talon,  a  century  and  a  half  ago.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  valley,  9  M.  from  St. 
Paura  Bay,  is  St.  Urbain,  a  French  Catholic  village  of  about  1,000  inhabitants.  By 
this  route  the  tri-weekly  Royal  mail-stages  cross  to  Chicoutimi,  on  the  upper  Sague- 
nay  (see  page  300).  St.  Placide  (Glairvaux)  is  also  back  of  St.  Paul's  Bay,  and  has 
400  inhabitants. 

"  In  all  the  miles  of  country  I  had  passed  over,  I  had  seen  nothing  to  equal  the 
exquisite  beauty  of  the  Vale  of  Bale  St.  Paul.  From  the  hill  on  which  we  stood, 
the  wl  ole  valley,  of  many  miles  in  extent,  was  visible.  It  was  perfectly  level,  and 
covered  from  end  to  end  with  little  hamlets,  and  several  churches,  with  here,  and 
there  a  few  small  patches  of  forest.  ....  Like  the  Happy  Valley  of  Rasselas,  it  was 
surrounded  by  the  most  wild  and  rugged  mountains,  which  rose  in  endless  succes- 
sion one  behind  the  other,  stretching  away  in  the  distance,  till  they  resembled  a 
foint  blue  wave  in  the  horizon."  (Ballantyne.) 

"  Nothing  can  be  more  picturesque  than  the  landscape  which  may  be  viewed  ftom 
the  crest  of  Cap  au  Corbeau.  Have  you  courage  to  clamber  up  the  long  slopes  of 
Cap  au  Corbeau ;  to  see  the  white-sailed  schooners  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay  ;  to 
comprehend  the  thousand  divers  objects  at  your  feet ;  the  sinuous  course  of  the 
Mar^  and  of  the  serpentine  Gouf^ ;  on  the  S.  the  old  mansions  and  rich  pas- 
tures ;  to  see  the  church  and  convent  and  the  village,  the  Gap  k  la  Rey,  the  bottom 
of  the  bay ;  and,  farther  away,  the  shores  of  St.  Antoine  Perou,  St.  Jerome,  St. 
John,  St.  Joseph,  and  St.  Flavien  ?  "  (Trudelle.) 

The  Bay  was  settled  early  in  the  17th  century,  and  has  always  been  noted  for  its 


ISLE  AUX  COUDRES.  RouU  7f.      293 


-?^--, 


Mrthqnakes  nnd  Toleanie  disturhancefl.  In  October,  1870,  it  felt  rach  a  serero 
shock  that  nearly  eyery  house  in  the  valley  was  damaged.  In  1759  the  village  was 
destroyed  by  Oorham'b  New-England  Rangers,  after  the  inhabitants  had  defended 
It  for  two  hours. 

"  Above  the  Oulph  I  have  just  mentioned  is  the  Bay  of  St.  Paid,  where  the  Hab- 
itations begin  on  tbe  North  Side  ;  and  there  are  some  Woods  of  Pine-Trees,  which 
are  much  valued ;  Here  are  also  some  red  Pines  of  great  Beauty.  Messrs.  of  the 
Seminary  of  Quebfc  are  Lords  of  this  Bay.  Six  Leagues  higher,  there  is  a  very 
high  Promontory,  which  terminates  a  Chain  of  Mountains,  which  extend  above  400 
Leagues  to  the  West ;  It  is  called  Cape  Tourmenle,  probably  because  he  that  gave  it 
this  Name,  suffered  here  by  a  Oust  uf  Wind.'*  (Charlgvoix.) 

The  W.  promontory  of  St.  Paul's  Bay  is  C&pe  Labaie ;  that  on  the  E  ,  opposite 
the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  is  Cape  Corbeau.  "  This  cape  has  something  of  the  migestio 
and  of  the  mournful.  At  a  little  distance  it  might  be  taken  for  one  of  the  immense 
tombs  erected  in  the  middle  of  the  Egyptian  deserts  by  the  vanity  of  some  puny 
mortal.  A  cloud  of  birds,  children  of  stormj  wheel  continually  about  its  flr- 
erowned  brow,  and  seem,  by  their  sinister  croaking,  to  intone  the  funeral  of  some 
dying  man." 

Between  St.  Paul's  Bay  and  the  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  the  whirlpool 
called  Le  Gouffre^  where  ili»  water  suddenly  attains  a  depth  of  30  fath- 
oms, and  at  ebb-tide  the  outer  currents  are  repulsed  from  Coudres  to  Cor- 
beau in  wide  swirling  eddies.  It  is  said  that  before  the  Gouffre  began  to 
fill  with  sand  schooners  which  were  caught  in  these  eddies  described  a 
series  of  spiral  curves,  the  last  of  which  landed  them  on  the  rocks.  It 
was  the  most  dreaded  point  on  this  shore,  and  many  lives  were  lost  here; 
but  its  navigation  is  now  safe  and  easy. 

The  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  hi  M.  long  and  2^  M.  wide,  and  is  a  charm- 
ing remnant  of  primitive  Norman  life.  It  has  about  800  {'.habitants,  ea- 
gaged  in  farming,  and  more  purely  mediaeval  French  than  any  other 
people  in  Canada.  The  houses  are  mostly  along  the  lines  of  the  N.  W. 
and  S.  E.  shores;  and  the  Church  of  St.  Louis  is  on  the  S.  W.  point. 
The  island  is  still  owned  by  the  Seminary  of  Quebec,  to  which  it  was 
granted  in  1687.  Large  numbers  of  porpoises  are  caught  between  this 
point  and  the  Rivl6re  Quelle,  on  the  S.  shore.  Bayard  Taylor  says: 
"  The  Isle  aux  Coudres  is  a  beautiful  pastoral  mosaic  in  the  pale  emerald 
setting  of  the  river." 

Off  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  and  between  that  point  and  Rivi&re  Ouelle,  great  num- 
bers of  white  whales  are  caught,  in  fish-pounds  made  for  the  purpose.  These  fish 
(often  taken  for  porpoises)  live  in  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  from  April  to  October, 
when  they  migrate  to  tbe  Gulf  and  the  Arctic  Ocean.  They  are  firom  14  to  22  ft. 
in  length,  and  yield  100-120  gallons  of  fine  oil,  which  is  much  used  for  lighthouse 
purposes,  because  it  does  not  freeze  in  winter.  A  valuable  leather  is  made  flrom 
their  skins. 

When  Cartier  was  advancing  up  the  St.  Lawrence  in  1635,  under  the  direction  of 
the  Quebec  Indians  whom  he  had  abducted  from  Qasp  ',  he  landed  on  this  island, 
and,  marvelling  at  the  numerous  haisel-trees  upon  the  hills,  named  it  Visit  aux 
Coudres  (Hazel-tree  Island).  This  point  he  made  the  division  between  the  country 
of  Suguenay  and  that  of  Canada.  "  In  1663  an  Karthqualie  rooted  up  a  Mountain, 
and  threw  it  upon  the  Isle  of  Coudres^  which  was  made  one  half  larger  than  before, 
and  in  the  Place  of  the  Mountain  there  appeared  a  Gulf,  which  it  is  not  safe  to 
approach."  • 

The  island  was  deserted  by  its  inhabitants  in  the  summer  of  1759,  when  great 
British  fleets  were  anchored  ofT  the  shores,  but  several  boats'  crews  were  driven 
from  the  strand  by  rangers.   Three  British  officers  landed  on  the  idle,  carrying  a  flag 


204     Route  7t 


MURRAY  BAY. 


wUoh  they  were  a^ut  to  raise  on  the  chief  eminence  before  the  fleet ;  but  they 
were  cut  off  by  a  small  party  of  Canadians,  and  were  led  prisoners  to  Quebec.  Ad- 
miral Durell  first  reached  the  island,  with  10  frigates,  and  captured  8  french  yes- 
sels  bearing  1,800  barrels  of  powder. 

The  steamer  runs  S.  E.  for  several  miles  in  the  narrow  channel  between 
the  Isle  aux  Condres  and  the  mountains  of  the  N.  Shore.  At  11  M.  from 
St.  Paul's  Bay  it  rounds  in  at  the  pier  (920  ft.  long)  of  the  parish  of  Las 
^iboalements,  h  farming  district  of  2,400  inhabitants.  '*  High  on  the 
crest  of  the  Laurentides,  old  as  the  world,  the  tourist  sees  on  the  N.,  on 
landing  at  thellboulements  pier,  the  handsome  parish-church."  The  situa- 
tion of  this  village  is  one  of  the  most  quaint  and  charming  on  the  river, 
and  overlooks  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  leagues.  The  white  houses  are 
grouped  snugly  about  the  tall  Notre  Dame  Church,  above  which  the  dark 
peak  of  Mt.  Eboulements  rises  to  the  height  of  2,547  ft. 

Tn  the  vicinity  of  Les  £boulements  are  visible  the  tracks  of  the  great  land-slides 
of  16fi3,  in  that  season  when  so  many  marvellous  phenomena  were  seen  in  Canada. 
The  St.  Lawrence  ran  "white  as  milk,"  as  far  down  as  Tadousac ;  ranges  of  hills  were 
thrown  down  into  the  river,  or  were  swallowed  up  in  the  plains  ;  earthquakes  shat- 
tered the  houses  and  shook  the  trees  until  the  Indians  said  that  the  forests  were 
drunk  ;  vast  fissures  opened  in  the  ground ;  and  the  courses  of  streams  were  changed. 
Meteors,  fiery-winged  serpents,  and  ghastly  spectres  were  seen  in  the  air ;  roarings 
and  mysterious  voices  sounded  on  every  side ;  and  the  confessionals  of  all  the 
churches  were  crowded  with  penitents,  awaiting  the  end  of  the  world. 

The  steamer  now  rounds  the  huge  mass  of  Mt.  Eboulements,  passing  the 
rugged  spurs  called  Goose  Cape  and  Cape  Corneilie.  On  the  E.  slope  is 
seen  the  large  village  of  St.  Iren§e,  where  900  French  people  preserve  their 
ancient  customs  and  language.  A  few  miles  farther  E.  the  steamer  rounds 
in  at  Murray  Bay. 

Murray  Bay  is  the  favorite  summer  resort  of  the  N.  Shore,  and  has 
fine  facilities  for  boating  and  bathing,  with  a  long  firm  beach.  It  is  also 
one  of  the  best  fishing-centres  in  the  Province,  and  sportsmen  meet  with 
success  in  the  waters  of  the  beautiful  Murray  River,  or  the  Gravel  and 
Petit  Lakes.  The  steamer  stops  at  the  long  wharf  at  Point  a  Pique^  near 
which  are  iSs  hotels,  frequented  in  summer  by  many  Quebec  families,  who 
enjoy  tli  j  beautiful  scenery  of  the  adjacent  country.  There  are  also  sum- 
mer co'.tages  about  the  base  of  Cap  a  VAirjl.  The  tourists  occupy  Point 
a  Pique  with  their  hotels,  and  make  excursions  to  the  lakes  and  the  falls. 
The  French  town  is  at  the  bridge  over  the  Murray  River,  and  is  cl.;stered 
about  the  great  church  and  the  court-house  of  Charlevoix  County.  It 
has  3,000  inhabitants. 

"  Of  all  the  picturesque  parishes  on  the  shore  of  our  grand  river,  to  which  innu- 
merable swarms  of  tourists  go  every  summer  to  take  tiie  waters,  none  will  interest 
the  lover  of  sublime  landscapes  more  than  Malbaie.  One  must  go  there  to  enjoy  the 
rugged,  the  grandeur  of  nature,  the  broad  horizons.  He  will  not  lind  here  the  beau- 
tiful wheat-fields  of  Kamouraska,  the  pretty  and  verdurous  shores  of  Cacounu  or 
Rimouski,  where  the  languorous  citizen  goes  to  strengthen  hi:*  energies  during  the 
dog-days ;  here  is  savnge  and  uuconquered  nature,  and  view-points  yet  more  luajes- 
tic  than  those  of  the  coasts  and  walls  of  Bic.  Precipice  on  precipice ;  impenetrable 
gorges  iu  the  projections  of  the  rocks  ;  peaks  which  lose  themselves  in  the  clouds, 
and  among  which  the  bears  wander  through  July,  iu  search  of  berries;  where  the 


RIVlfiRE  DU  LOUP. 


Route  7t      295 


caribou  browses  in  September;  where  the  solitary  crow  and  the  rojral  eaele  make 
their  nests  in  May ;  in  shorty  alpine  landscapes,  the  pathless  highlands  of  Scotland, 
a  Byronic  nature,  tossed  about,  heaped  up  in  the  North,  far  fVom  the  ways  of  cir- 
ilized  men,  near  a  volcano  that  ftrom  time  to  time  awakens  and  shakes  the  country  in 
a  manner  to  frighten,  but  not  to  endanger,  the  romantic  inhabitants.  According  to 
some,  in  order  to  enjoy  all  the  fulness  of  tnese  anstere  beauties,  one  must  be  at  the 
privileged  epoch  of  life.  If  then  you  wish  to  taste,  in  their  full  features,  the  dreamy 
solitudes  of  the  shores,  the  grottos,  the  great  forests  of  Point  di  i*ique  or  Cap  a 
I'Aigle,  or  to  capture  by  hundreds  the  frisking  trout  of  the  remote  Gravel  Lake,  you 
must  have  a  good  eye,  a  well-nerved  arm,  and  a  supple  leg."    (LbMoinb.  ) 

This  district  was  formerly  known  as  the  King's  Farm,  and  had  30  houses  at  the 
conquest  of  Canada.  It  was  then  granted  to  the  Scottish  officers,  Mt^or  Nairn  and 
Malcom  Eraser,  who  soon  promoted  its  settl  nent.  It  was  explored  in  June,  1608» 
by  Champlain,  who  named  it  Malle  Bale,  on  account  of  "  the  tide  which  runs  there 
marvellously,  and,  even  though  the  weather  is  calm,  the  bay  is  greatly  moved."  It 
is  still  generally  known  as  Malbaie,  though  the  English  use  the  came  Murray  Bay, 
given  in  honor  of  the  general  who  granted  it  to  the  Scots.  The  Scotch  fSimilies 
brought  out  by  Fraser  and  Nairn  are  now  French  in  language  and  customs.  A 
depot  for  American  prisoners-of-war  was  established  here  in  1776,  near  tlie  Nairn 
manor-house,  and  the  ba,rracks  were  built  by  the  captives  themselves. 

The  great  French  settlement  of  St.  Agnes^  with  1,600  inhabitants,  is  9  M.  W.  of 
Murray  Bay,  up  the  valley,  and  on  the  verge  of  the  wide  wilderness  of  the  Crown 
Lands.  A  rugged  road  foilows  the  N.  sho'B  from  Murray  Bay  to  the  S^^enay 
River,  a  distance  of  about  40  M.,  passing  the  romantic  St.  Fidele  (9  M.  out ;  l,OtiO 
inhabitants),  the  lumbering  village  of  Port  au  Persil,  the  hamlets  of  Black  River, 
Port  aux  Quilles,  St.  Sim<ion,  and  Calliere,  back  of  which  are  mountains  where 
many  moose  and  caribou  are  found.  Still  farther  £.  is  Bue  des  Rochers,  on  an 
island-studded  bay. 

The  steamer  now  stretches  out  across  the  river  in  a  diagonal  course  of 
80  M.,  the  direction  being  about  N.  E.  The  river  is  about  20  M.  wide, 
and  the  steamer  soon  comes  in  sight  of  the  Kamouraska  Islands  (see  page 
252),  on  the  1.,  and  then  passes  between  Hare  Island  (1.)  and  the  Pil- 
grims. The  vessel  soon  reaches  the  long  pier  at  Point  a  Beanlieu,  3  M. 
from  Riviere  du  Loup. 

Bivi6re  da  Loup  {*La  JRochelle  House;  and  several  large  summer 
boarding-houses)  is  a  prosperous  village  of  4,500  inhabitants,  occupying 
a  fine  position  on  a  hillside  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  There  are  some 
pretty  villas  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  great  church  in  the  centre  of  the 
town  is  a  prominent  landmark  for  miles.  About  3  M.  up  the  river  are  the 
famous  *  Biviere-du-Loup  Falls^  near  the  new  and  massive  bridge  of  the 
Intercolonial  Railway.  The  stream  here  plunges  over  a  cliff  about  80  ft. 
high,  and  then  rests  quietly  in  a  broad  pool  below.  The  views  of  the 
river  and  its  islands  and  shipping,  from  the  streets  of  the  village,  are 
broad  and  beautiful;  and  many  summer  visitors  pass  their  vacations 
here,  finding  comfortable  accommodations  in  the  boarding-houses.  The 
Teniiscouata  road  runs  S.  E.  from  this  point  into  New  Brunswick,  cross- 
ing numerous  trout-streams  and  leading  through  a  desolate  region  of 
hills.  Its  first  point  of  interest  is  the  long  Temiscouata  Lake  (see  page 
68). 

Riviere  du  Loup  will  soon  be  one  of  the  chief  railway-centres  of  Canada.  It  has 
been  the  fi.  terminus  of  the  Orand  Trunk  line  for  years.    The  Intercolonial  is  now 


I 


296      Moute  7i. 


CACOUNA. 


well  and  surely  completed  fh>m  this  point  to  St.  John  and  Halifkx,  and  the  New« 
Brunswick  Railway  is  being  pushed  hitherward  up  the  St.  John  Valley  (see  page 
49). 

This  domain  waa  granted  by  the  Compegnie  des  Indos  Occidentales  to  the  Sieur 
de  la  Chesnoye  in  1673.  It  is  said  that  its  name  in  derived  from  the  fiict  that  in 
former  years  gieat  droves  of  pe8l8(/ot(p5-7narin.t)  frequented  the  shoals  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  mitking  a  remarkable  uproar  at  night. 

A  persiHtent  attempt  has  been  made  to  call  this  town  FraservH'f.,  in  honor  of  the 
Frasers,  who  are  its  i>eigniers.  The  numerous  Frasers  of  this  Province  met  at 
Quebec  in  1868  to  re-form  their  ancieut  Scottish  c1pi  organization,  and  to  name 
Provincial,  county,  and  parish  chieftains.  The  heau-chief  is  entitled  The  Fmser, 
and  is  the  Hon.  John  Fraser  de  Berry,  "  6Sth  descp  id'  Mt  of  Jules  de  Berry,  a  rich 
and  powerful  lord,  who  gave  a  sumptuous  feast  to  :hc  '  mperor  Charlemagne  and 
his  numerous  suite,  at  his  castle  in  Normandy,  ii  he  oth  century  "  The  solemn 
Scots  maintain  that  De  Berry  then  regaled  Charlemagne  with  strawberries  {/raises. 
In  the  French  language),  and  that  the  Emperor  was  so  greatly  pleased  tha^.  he 
ordered  that  he  should  thenceforth  be  known  as  Fraiser  de  Berry,  and  from  him  the 
Clan  Fraser  traces  its  name  aad  descent. 

Caooana  is  6  M.  from  Riviere  du  Loup,  and  is  the  chief  summer  resort 
of  Canada.  The  ♦  St.  Lawrence  Hall  is  the  most  fashionable  hotel,  and 
accommodates  600  guests,  at  $2,50-3  a  day.  The  Mansion  Hotiae  charges 
$1.50  a  day,  and  accommodates  150  guests.  There  are  several  summer 
boarding-houses  whose  rules  are  still  lower.  The  traveller  who  visits 
Gacouna  irom  Kivi^re  du  Loup  must  be  on  his  guard  against  the  extortions 
of  the  carriage-drivers,  who  frequently  demand  exorbitant  fares. 

Twenty  years  ago  Cacouna  was  nothing;  it  is  now  filled  with  great  ho- 
tels and  boarding-houses,  and  adorned  with  many  summer  cottages.  It  is 
visited  by  thousands  of  Canadians,  and  also  by  many  Americans  "fuyant 
le  ciel  corrosif  de  New- York."  Here  may  be  seen  the  Anglo-Canadian 
girls,  who  are  said  to  combine  the  physical  beauty  and  strength  of  the 
English  ladies  with  the  vivacity  and  brilliancy  of  the  Americans.  The 
amusements  of  the  village  are  like  those  of  similar  places  farther  S.,  — 
sea-bathing  and  fishing,  driving,  and  balls  which  extend  into  the  small 
hours.  The  beach  is  good,  and  the  river-views  from  the  heights  are  of 
famed  beauty.  There  is  a  pretty  lake  back  among  the  hills,  where  many 
trout  are  found 

The  great  specialties  of  Cacouna  are  its  pure  cool  air  and  brilliant  north- 
ern scenery.  It  is  sometimes  found  too  cold,  even  in  August,  during 
rainy  weather,  for  the  American  visitors,  who  then  hurry  away  in  crowds. 
The  peninsula  of  Cacouna  is  a  remarkable  mass  of  rock,  nearly  400  ft. 
high,  which  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  low  i.sthmus.  Its  name 
was  given  by  the  Indians,  in  allusion  to  its  form,  and  signifies  "the  tur- 
tle." The  village  is  French,  and  has  700  inhabitants,  and  Anglican,  Meth- 
odist, and  Kom;":!  Catholic  churches.  4^  M.  distant  is  the  populous  parish 
of  St,  Arsene,  and  8  M.  S.  is  St.  Modeste. 

From  Riviere  du  Loup  the  steamer  runs  across  to  the  Saguenay  River, 
passing  within  3-4  M.  of  Cacouna,  and  running  between  the  Braudy  Pots 
(1.)  and  Rec^  Island  (see  page  252). 

The  Sagoonay  Biver,  see  Route  73. 


THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER.       R(mU7S.      297 


73.  The  Sagaenay  Biver. 


steamers  leave  Quebec  for  Ghicoutimi,  the  forthest  port  on  the  Saguenay,  on 
Taeeday  and  Friday,  at  7  A-  M.  (see  page  291) ;  and  for  Ua  Ha  Bay  on  Wednesday, 
Thui«day,  and  Saturday.  They  reach  Tadousac  by  nightfall,  and  start  on  the  re- 
turn from  Ghicoutimi  the  next  morning. 

Distances'  —  Quebec  to  Tadousac,  134  M. ;  Tadousac  to  Riviere  St.  Marguerite, 
15 ;  St.  Louis  Islets,  19 ;  Riviere  auz  Canards,  23 ;  Little  Saguenay  River,  27 ;  St. 
John's  Bay,  32 ;  Eternity  Bay,  41 ;  Trinity  Bay,  48 ;  Cape  Rouge  56 ;  Cape  East, 
63;  Cape  West,  65;  St.  Alphonse,  72 ;  St.  Fulgence,  95;  Chicoutimi,  100.  This 
itinerary  is  based  on  that  of  the  steamship  company  and  is  not  correct,  but  will  be 
ui*eful  in  marking  approximations  to  the  relative  distances  between  the  points  on 
the  river.  There  is  no  other  table  of  distances  accessible.  Imray's  Sailing  Diret' 
tions  (precise  authority )  says  that  it  is  65  M.  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Chicoutimi. 

The  **  Saguenay  River  is  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Lower  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  the  outlet  of  the  great  Lake  St.  John,  into  which  11  rivers 
fall.  For  the  last  50  M.  of  its  course  the  stream  is  from  1  to  2^  M.  wide, 
and  is  bordered  on  both  sides  by  lofty  precipices  of  syenite  and  gneiss, 
which  impinge  directly  on  the  shores,  and  are  dotted  with  stunted  trees. 
Along  their  slopes  are  the  deep  lines  of  glacial  striations,  telling  of  the 
passage  of  formidable  icebergs  down  this  chasm.  The  bed  of  the  river  is 
100  fathoms  lower  than  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  difference  which  is 
sharply  marked  at  tlie  point  of  confluence.  The  shores  were  stripped  of 
their  forests  by  a  great  fire,  in  1810,  but  there  are  large  numbers  of  hemlock 
and  birch  trees  in  the  neighboring  glens.  The  river  is  frozen  from  the  St. 
Louis  Isles  to  Ghicoutimi  during  half  the  year,  and  snow  remains  on  the 
hills  until  June.  The  awful  majesty  of  its  unbroken  mountain-shore3,.the 
profound  depth  of  its  waters,  the  absence  of  life  through  many  leagues  of 
distance,  have  made  the  Saguenay  unique  among  rivers,  and  it  is  yearly 
visited  by  thousands  of  tourists  as  one  of  the  chief  curiosities  of  the  West- 
ern World. 

"  The  Saguenay  is  not,  properly,  a  river.  It  is  a  tremendous  cha-sm,  like  that  of 
the  Jordan  Valley  and  the  Dead  Sea,  cleft  for  60  M  through  the  heart  of  a  mountain 

wilderness No  magical  illusions  of  atmosphere  enwrap  the  scenery  of  this 

northern  river.  Everything  is  hard,  naked,  stern,  silent.  Durk-gray  cliffs  of  granitic 
gneiss  rise  from  the  pitch-black  water ;  flrs  of  gloomy  green  are  rooted  in  their  crev- 
ices and  fringe  their  summits ;  loftier  ranges  of  a  dull  indigo  hue  show  themselves 
in  the  background,  and  over  all  bends  a  pale,  cold,  northern  sky.  The  keen  air, 
which  bring''  out  every  object  with  a  crystalline  distinctness,  even  contracts  the  di- 
mensions of  the  scenery,  diminishes  the  height  of  Mie  clifBi,  and  apparently  belittles 
the  majesty  of  the  river,  so  that  the  first  feeling  \a  one  of  disappointment.  Still,  it 
exercises  a  fascination  which  you  cannot  resist.  You  look,  and  look,  fettered  by  the 
fresh,  novel,  savage  stamp  which  nature  exhibits,  and  at  last,  as  in  St.  Peter^s  or  aU 
Niagara,  learn  from  the  character  of  the  separate  features  to  appreciate  tlie  grandeur, 
of  the  whole Steadily  upwards  we  went,  the  windings  of  tlie  river  and  its  vary- 
ing breadth  —  ftvm  ^  M  to  nearly  2  M.  —  giving  us  a  shifting  succession  of  tiiu 
grandest  pictures.  Shores  that  seemed  roughly  piled  together  out  of  the  fras;ment3 
of  chaos  overhung  us,  — great  masses  of  rock,  gleaming  duskily  through  th«ir  scanty 
drapery  of  evergreens,  here  lifting  long  irregular  walls  against  the  sky,  there  split 
into  huge,  fantastic  forms  by  deep  lateral  gorges,  up  which  we  saw  the  dark-blue 
crests  of  loftier  mountains  in  the  rear.  The  water  beneath  us  was  black  as  night, 
with  a  pitchy  glaze  on  its  surface ;  and  the  only  life  in  all  the  savage  solitude  was, 

now  and  then,  the  back  of  a  white  porpoise,  in  some  of  the  deeper  coves The 

river  is  a  reproduction  —  truly  on  a  contracted  scale  —  of  the  fiords  of  the  Norwegian 

13* 


298      JRouteTS.       THE  SAGUENAY  RIVER. 

coast The  dark  inoantalns,  the  tremendous  precipices,  the  flr  forests,  eren  the 

settlements  at  Ha  Ha  Bay  and  L'Anse  k  I'Ean  (except  that  the  houses  are  white  in- 
stead of  red)  are  as  completely  Norwegian  as  they  can  be.  The  Scandinavian  skip- 
pers who  come  to  Canada  all  notice  this  resemblance,  and  many  of  them,  I  learn, 
settle  here."    (Batard  Taylor.) 

•'  From  Ha  Ha  right  down  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  you  see  nothing  but  the  cold, 
black,  gloomy  Saguenay,  rolling  between  two  straight  lines  of  rocky  hills  that  rise 
steeply  from  the  waters  edge.  These  hiUs,  though  8t,oep,  are  generally  roughly 
rounded  in  ohape,  and  not  abrupt  or  faced  with  precipices.  This  makes  the  Ecenery 
differ  firom  that  with  which  it  has  been  often  compared,  the  boldest  of  the  fiords  of 
Norway.  Over  the  rugged  hills  of  the  Saguenay  there  is  generally  enough  of  earth 
here  and  there  lodged  to  let  the  gray  rock  be  dct'td  over  with  a  dark-gTeen  sprink- 
ling of  pine-trees.  Perhaps  there  is'  hardly  a  spot  on  the  Saguenay,  which,  taken  by 
itself,  would  not  impress  any  lover  of  wild  nature  by  its  grandeur,  and  evcu  sublimify ; 
but  after  sailing  for  70  miles  downvt^ards,  parsing  rocky  hill  nfter  rocky  bill,  rising  one 
beyond  the  other  in  monotonously  straight  lines  alongside  of  vou;  ....  s«fter  vainly 
longing  for  some  break  in  these  twin  imprisoning  walls,  which  might  allow  the  eye 
the  relief  of  wandering  over  an  expanse  of  country,  —  you  will  begin  to  compare  the 

Saguenay  in  no  kindly  spirit  to  the  Rhine It  is  a  cold,  savage,  inhuman  riTer, 

fit  to  take  rank  with  Styx  and  Acheron  ;  and,  into  the  bargain,  it  is  dull.  For  the 
whole  70  miles,  you  will  no'.  b«  likely  to  see  any  li^:TJg  thing  on  it  or  near  it,  outpidf- 
of  your  own  steamer,  not  a  house,  inir  a  field,  nor  a  sign  of  any  sort  that  living 
things  have  ever  been  th'>;re."    (Whitp  i 

*'  Sunlight  and  clear  sky  are  out  of  p'ace  over  its  black  waters.  Anything  which 
recalls  the  life  and  smile  of  nature  is  n;i  iu  ui J  on  with  the  huge  naked  cliffs,  raw, 
cold,  and  ^silent  as  the  tombs.  An  Italion  i^prhig  could  effect  no  change  in  the 
deadly,  rugged  aspect ;  nor  does  winter  add  or  e  iota  to  its  mournful  desolation.  It 
is  with  a  sense  of  relief  that  the  tcntrist  ennv^es  from  its  sullen  gloom,  and  looks 
back  upon  it  aa,a  kind  of  vault,  —  Nntwre's  farcophagus,  where  life  or  sound  seems 
never  to  have  entered.  Compared  to  it  the  Dead  Sea  is  blooming,  and  the  wildest 
ravines  look  cosey  and  smiling.  It  is  wild  without  the  least  variety,  and  grand 
apparently  in  spite  of  itself ;  while  so  utter  is  the  solitude,  so  dreary  and  monoto- 
nous the  fro>vn  of  its  great  black  walls  of  rock,  that  the  tourist  is  sure  to  get  impa- 
tient with  its  sullen  dead  reverse,  till  he  feels  almost  an  antipathy  to  its  very  name. 
The  Saguenay  t-cems  to  want  painting,  blowing  up,  or  draining,  —  anything,  in 
short,  to  alter  its  morose,  quiet,  eternal  awe.  Talk  of  Lethe  or  the  Styx, —  they 
must  have  been  purling  brooks  compared  with  this  savage  river ;  and  a  picnic  on  the 
banks  of  either  would  be  preferable  to  one  on  the  banks  of  the  Siaguenay."  {London 
Times.) 


On  Sept.  1, 1536,  Tadousac  was  visited  by  the  won  cr-loving  Cartier,  with  three 
vessels.  He  saw  the  Indians  fishing  off  shore,  and  reported  that,  "  in  ascending  the 
Saguenay,  you  rcr.ch  a  country  where  there  f  re  men  dressed  like  us,  who  live  in 
cities,  and  have  much  gold,  rubies,  and  coppev."  The  river  was  visited  by  Roberval 
in  1543,  and  part  of  the  expedition  was  los» .  Thenceforward  the  country  of  the 
Saguenay  was  explored  by  the  fur-traders  and  the  fearless  Jesuits.  In  1603  Tadou- 
sac  was  visited  by  Champlain,  around  whose  vessel  tlie  natives  crowded  in  their  canoes 
in  order  to  sell  or  barter  away  their  peltries.  Seven  years  later  a  solemn  and  beau- 
tiful scene  occurred  at  Point  la  Boule  (the  immense  promontory  which  is  seen  6 
M.  up-stream),  when  Champlain  and  Lescarbot  attended  the  great  council  of  the 
Montaignais.  They  were  received  with  dignified  courtesy  by  the  Sagamore  Anada- 
bijou,  and  conducted  to  the  meeting  of  the  warriors,  where  several  grave  and 
eloquent  speeches  were  made  while  the  pipe  of  peace  was  passed  around.  The 
Montaignais  at  that  time  numbered  9  tribes,  '2  of  which  dwelt  along  the  river,  and 
the  other  7  occupied  the  vast  area  towards  Hudson's  Bay  and  the  land  of  the  Esqui- 
maux. Their  last  Sagamore,  Simeon,  died  in  1849,  and  had  no  successor,  and  the 
poor  remnant  of  the  nation  now  obtains  a  precarious  living  by  beggary,  or  has  with- 
drawn into  the  fastnesses  of  the  North.  The  present  name  of  the  river  is  a  modifi- 
cation of  the  original  Indian  word  Saggishsikuss,  which  means  "a  river  whose 
banks  are  precipitous." 

In  1671  the  heroic  and  self-nbnegating  Jesuit,  Pere  de  Crepieul,  founded  the  mis- 
sion at  Tadousac,  where  he  remained  for  26  years,  parsing  the  winters  in  the 
ivxetched  huts  of  the  savages.    Before  this  time  (in  1661)  the  Fathers  Druillettes  and 


TADOUSAC. 


JtouU  73.      299 


[he  mis- 

in  the 

ktesand 


Dablon  had  ascended  the  river  to  Lalce  St.  John  and  there  had  baptized  many  In- 
diaofl,  and  founded  the  mission  of  St.  Francois  XaTier.  The  Montaignaia  are  still 
in  the  Catholic  faith,  and  each  fumily  has  its  prayer-book  and  breVuiry,  in  which 
they  are  able  to  read.  In  1671  Father  Albanel  asceuded  the  Si^uenay  from  TadoU' 
sac,  by  order  of  Intendant  Bigot,  and  passed  N.  to  Hudson's  Bay  by  way  of  the 
great  lalcus  of  St.  John  and  Mistaseini.  The  coun'ory  about  the  Upper  Saguenay  was 
then  weH  known  to  the  zealous  churchmen,  hue  after  the  decline  of  the  missions  it 
was  for^-otten.  About  50  years  ago  the  Canadian  government  had  it  re-explored  by 
efHcient  otHcers,  and  this  remote  region  is  now  being  occupied  by  French-Canadian 
h&mlett^,  Vhe  chief  business  on  the  river  is  the  exportation  of  lumber,  whicli  i» 
Bbii?ped  frciQi  Chicoutimi  in  immense  quantities. 

Tadousao  is  a  small  village,  prettily  situated  oimi  semicircular  terrace 
surrounded  with  mountains  and  fronting  on  a  small  harbor,  deep  and 
secure.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  here  about  24  M.  wide,  and  the  mountains 
of  the  S.  shore  are  visible,  while  on  clear  days  the  view  includes  the  white 
villaffea  of  Cacouna  and  Riviere  du  Loup.  The  *  Tadouaac  Hotel  ($2.60  a 
ff  vy)  is  a  spacious  establisliment  on  the  bluff  over  the  beach.  It  was 
founded  in  1865  by  a  joint-stock  company,  and  has  been  successful.  The 
sea-bathing  is  very  good,  although  the  water  is  cold,  and  sea-trout  are 
caught  off  the  shore.  The  old  buildings  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
are  near  the  hotel,  and  on  the  lawn  before  them  is  a  battery  of  antiquated 
4-pounders.  E.  of  the  hotel  is  the  old  *  chapel  of  the  Jesuit  mission, 
which  was  erected  in  1746  on  the  site  of  a  still  more  ancient  church.  The 
summer  cottages  are  near  the  shore,  and  are  cheerful  little  buildings.  The 
Earl  of  Dufferin,  late  Governor-General  of  Canada,  erected  a  handsome 
house  here.  The  scenery  of  the  landward  environs  is  described  in  tLo 
Indian  word  Tadausac,  which  means  knobs  or  mamelons. 

*<  Tadousac  is  placed,  like  a  nest,  in  the  midst  of  the  granite  rocks  that  surround 
the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  The  chapels  and  the  buildings  of  the  post  occupy  the 
edge  of  a  pretty  plateau,  on  the  sutnmit  of  an  escarped  height  So  perched,  these 
edifices  dominate  the  narrow  strip  of  fine  sand  which  sweeps  around  at  their  feet. 
On  the  r.  the  view  plunges  into  the  profound  waters  of  the  sombre  Saguenay  ;  in 
front,  it  is  lost  in  the  immense  St.  Lawrence.  All  around  are  mountains  covered 
with  flr-treet>  and  birches.  Through  the  opening  which  the  mighty  river  has  cut 
through  the  rock,  the  reefs,  the  islands,  and  south  shores  are  seen.  It  is  a  delicious 
place  "  (Tache.) 

4  M.  E.  of  Tadouaac  is  the  harbor  of  Moulin  d  Baude,  where  are  large  beds  of 
white  marble;  Charlevoix  anchored  here  in  the  Chameau  (in  1700),  and  was  so  en- 
thusiastic over  the  discovery  that  he  reported  .'hat  "  nil  this  country  is  full  of  mar- 
ble." Pointe  Rouge,  the  S.  E.  promontory  before  Tadousac,  is  composed  of  an  in- 
tensely hard  red  granite  The  shore  extends  to  the  N.  E.  to  the  famous  shooting- 
grounds  of  Mille  yaches,tl\e  trout-stream  of  the  Laval  River,  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
post  of  Betsiamitis  (see  page  233). 

In  the  year  1599  a  trading-post  was  established  at  Tadousac  by  Pontgniv^  and 
Ghauvin,  to  whom  this  country  had  been  granted.  They  built  storehouses  and  huts, 
and  left  16  men  to  gather  in  the  furs  from  the  Indians,  but  several  of  these  died 
and  the  rest  fled  into  the  forest.  Two  subsequent  attempts  within  a  few  years  ended 
as  disastrously.  In  1628  the  place  was  captured  by  Admiral  Kirke,  and  in  1632  his 
brother  died  here.  In  1658  the  lordship  of  this  district, was  given  to  the  Sieur  De- 
maux,  with  the  dominion  over  the  country  between  Eboulements  and  Cape  Cor- 
morant. Three  years  later  the  plai;'e  was  captured  by  the  Iroquois,  and  the  f^rrison 
was  massacred.  In  1690  three  French  frigates,  tkearing  the  royal  treasure  to  Quebec, 
were  chased  in  here  by  Sir  William  Phipps's  New-England  fletft.  They  formed  bat- 
teries on  the  Tadousac  shores,  but  the  Americans  were  unable  to  get  their  vessel! 


300      JtouU  7S. 


CHICOUTIMI. 


op  through  the  swift  carrentfi,  and  the  French  fleet  was  MTed.  The  tradine-poit 
and  misDum  were  kept  up  with  advantage.  Charlevoix  visited  the  place  in  1720,  and 
says:  "  The  greatest  Part  of  our  Qeographera  have  here  placed  a  Town,  but  where 
there  never  was  but  one  French  houre,  and  some  huts  of  Savnges  who  came  there  in 
the  Time  of  the  Trade  and  who  carried  away  their  Huts  or  Booths,  when  they  went 
away ;  and  this  was  the  whole  matter.  It  is  true  that  this  Port  has  been  a  long 
Time  the  Resort  of  all  the  Savage  Nations  of  the  North  and  East,  and  that  the 
French  reported  thither  as  soon  as  the  Navigation  was  free  both  from  France  and 
Canada ;  the  Missionaries  also  made  Use  of  the  Opportunity,  and  came  to  trade  here 
for  Heaven.  And  when  the  Trade  was  over,  the  Merchants  returned  to  their  Homes, 
the  Savages  took  the  Way  to  their  Villages  or  Forests,  and  the  Gospel  Labourers  fol- 
lowed the  last,  to  compleat  their  Instructions." 

The  steamer  leaves  Tadousac  during  the  evening,  and  ascends  the  river 
by  night,  when,  if  the  sky  is  unclouded,  there  are  beautiful  effects  of  star- 
light or  moonlight  on  the  frowning  shores.  The  return  trip  down  the  river 
is  made  the  next  day,  and  the  full  power  of  the  scenery  is  then  felt.  This 
description  of  the  river  begins,  therefore,  at  the  head  of  navif,ation,  and 
follows  the  river  downward,  detaching  the  detour  into  Ha  Ha  Bay,  for  the 
sake  of  continuity. 

Chicontimi  (good  hotel)  is  the  capital  of  Chicoutimi  County,  and  has 
1,935  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Saguenay, 
and  is  the  great  shipping-point  of  the  lumber  districts.  Over  40  ships 
load  here  every  year,  most  of  them  being  squarely  built  Scandijiavian 
vessels.  The  trade  amounts  to  $  500,000  a  year,  and  is  under  the  control 
of  Senator  Price  of  Quebec,  who  has  fine  villas  at  Chicoutimi  and  Tadousac, 
and  is  known  as  *  the  King  of  the  Saguenay."  The  powerful  house  of 
Price  Brothers  &  Co.  owns  most  of  the  Saguenay  country,  and  has  estab- 
lishments on  the  Lower  St.  Law^rence  and  in  England.  Their  property  in 
mills,  buildings,  and  vessels  is  of  immense  value.  Over  the  steamboat- 
pier  is  the  new  college,  built  of  stone,  about  an  open  quadrangle.  Near 
b}'  are  the  cathedral  and  the  convent  of  the  Good  Shepherd.  Beyond  the 
town  the  court-house  is  seen,  on  the  dark  slope  of  a  high  hill;  and  the 
white  ribbon  of  the  *  Chicoutimi  Falls  is  visible  to  the  1.  The  Chicoutimi 
River  here  falls  40  -  50  ft.,  just  before  entering  the  Saguenay.  This  stream 
affords  fine  sport  for  the  fisherman,  and  contains  great  numbers  of  fish  re- 
sembling the  land-locked  salmon,  or  grilse. 

Chicoutimi  signifies  "  deep  water,"  and  was  so  called  by  the  Northern  Indians  who 
here  first  encountered  the  profound  depths  of  the  Saguenay.  There  is  fine  fishing  about 
the  falls  and  the  adjacent  rapids  (permission  must  be  obtained,  and  is  often  granted  in 
courtesy  to  strangers).  The  ancient  .Tesuit  chapel  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's 
post  were  situated  near  the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  and  within  the  chapel 
(which  remained  until  recently)  was  the  tomb  of  Father  Cccquart,  the  last  of  the 
Jesuit  missionaries.  A  strong  mission  was  founded  here  in  1727,  by  Father  Labrosse, 
and  many  Indians  were  converted. 

St.  Anne  du  Saguenay  is  a  village  of  200  inhabitants,  on  the  high  bank 
of  the  river  opposite  Chicoutimi.  Lake  St.  John  is  about  60  M.  W.  of 
Chicoutimi,  and  is  reached  by  a  good  road,  which  passes  through  Jon- 
qui^re,  Kenogami,  and  Hebertville  (1,200  inha'oitants).  The  Rapida  of 
Terres  Bompues^  on  the  Saguenay  River,  are  o  M.  above  Chicoutimi. 


LAKE  ST.  JOHN. 


Haute  73,     301 


"  These  rapids  extend  8  M.;  then  there  are  8  M.  of  smooth  water;  then  a 
second  rapid  of  terrific  strength;  then  10  M.  of  still  water;  then  2  M.  of 
rapids;  then  |  M.  of  still  water.  FiDally,  there  succeed  the  mighty  rush 
and  uproar  of  the  Grand  D^charge,  mingling  with  the  foam  and  tumult 
of  the  Petit  D^charge.  These  empty  tlie  waters  of  the  Grand  St.  John 
Lake,  and  sweeping  around  a  rugged  island  with  terrific  and  unnatural 
force,  unite,  and  rage,  contend,  and  finally  melt  and  settle  down  into  the 
quiet  mood  of  the  still  water  below."  In  this  part  of  the  river  is  found 
the  winninish,  or  Northern  charr,  a  game-fish  whose  pink  meat  is  con- 
sidered a  greater  delicacy  than  brook-trout  or  salmon. 

L>ake  St*  John  waa  discovered  in  1647  by  Father  Duquen,  the  missionary 
at  Tadousac,  'who  was  the  first  European  to  ascend  the  Saguenay  to  its  source. 
It  was  then  called  by  the  Indians  Picouagami,  or  Flat  Lake.  Several  Jesuit  mis- 
sionaries soon  passed  by  this  route  to  the  great  Nekouba,  where  all  the  northern 
tribes  were  wont  to  meet  in  annual  fairs  ;  and  in  1672  Father  Albanel  advanced  from 
Tadousac,  by  Lake  St.  John  and  Lake  Mistassini,  to  the  Mer  du  Nord,  or  Hud- 
son's' fidy.  A  Catholic  mission  was  founded  on  the  lake,  at  Metabetchuan,  and 
posts  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  also  established  here.  The  lake  is  of 
great  area,  and  receives  the  waters  of  8  large  rivers,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  Mis^ 
tassini,  flowing  down  250  M.  from  Lake  Mistassini,  which  is  76  X  90  M.  in  area. 
The  water  is  shallow,  and  is  agitated  into  furious  white  waves  by  the  N.  W.  winds. 
To  the  N.  and  W.  is  a  vast  region  of  low  volcanic  mountains  and  dreary  lands 
of  low  spruce  forests.  The  soil  along  the  lake-shores  is  said  to  be  a  fertile  allu- 
vium, capable  of  nourishing  a  dense  population  ;  but  the  winters  are  long  and  ter- 
rible. 20  years  ago  there  were  no  settlements  here  except  the  Hudson's  BJay  posts ; 
now  there  are  ntunerous  villages,  the  chief  of  which  are  Roberval,  Biviire  i.  I'Ouxs, 
and  St.  Jerome. 

Mr.  Price,  M.  P.,  states  that  a  missionary  has  recently  discovered,  high  upon  the 
Saguenay  (or  on  the  Mistassini),  an  indent  French  fort,  with  intrenchments  and 
stockades.  On  the  inside  were  two  cannon,  and  several  broken  tombstones  dating 
from  the  early  part  of  the  16th  century.  It  is  surmised  that  these  remote  memorials 
mark  the  last  resting-place  of  the  Sieur  Roberv.'^l,  Qovernor-General  of  Canada,  who 
(it  is  supposed)  sailed  up  the  Saguenay  in  1543,  and  was  never  heard  from  after- 
wards. The  Robervals  were  favorites  of  King  Francis  I.,  who  called  one  of  them 
"  the  Petty  King  of  Yiemen,"  and  the  other, ''  the  Gendarme  of  HannibaL"  They 
were  both  lost  on  their  last  expedition  to  America. 

In  descending  the  Saguenay  iiom  Chicoutimi  to  Ha  Ha  Bay,  the  scenery 
is  of  remarkable  boldness,  but  is  less  startling  than  the  lower  reaches  of 
the  river.  Soon  after  leaving  the  village  the  steamer  passes  the  pretty 
villa  and  the  Anglican  church  pertaining  to  Senator  Price.  Below  this 
point  is  a  line  of  hills  of  marly  clay;  and  Cape  St.  Francois  soon  rears  its 
dark  crest  on  the  1.  bank.  The  river  widens  rapidly,  and  the  hamlet  of 
St.  Fulgence  is  seen  on  the  1.,  near  Pointe  Roches.  Beyond  the  ponderous 
walls  of  High  Point  is  another  broad  reach,  with  small  islets  under  the  1. 
bank.  The  steamer  now  runs  between  the  frowning  promontories  of  Cape 
East  and  Cape  West,  and  passes  the  entrance  to  Ha  Ha  Bay. 

*  Ha  Ha  Bay  runs  7  M.  S.  W.  from  the  Saguenay,  and  is  ascended  be- 
tween lofty  and  serrated  ridges,  bristling  with  sturdy  and  stunted  trees. 
So  broad  and  stately  is  this  inlet  that  it  is  said  that  the  early  French 
explorers  ascended  it  in  the  belief  that  it  was  the  main  river,  and  the 
name  originated  from  their  exclamations  on  reaching  the  end,  either  of 


302      McmU  7S. 


HA  HA  BAT. 


amusement  at  their  mistake  or  of  pleasure  at  the  beautiful  appearance  of 
the  meadows.  After  running  for  several  miles  between  the  terraced  cliffs 
of  Cape  West  (on  the  r.)  and  the  opposite  ridges,  the  steamer  enters  a 
wide  haven  whose  shores  consist  of  open  intervale-land,  backed  by  tall 
blue  heights.  The  entrance  is  4  M.  lor.,',  1  M.  wide,  and  100  fathoms 
deep,  and  the  haven  can  be  reached  by  ships  of  the  line  without  difficulty. 
It  is  expected  that  this  bay  will  be  the  great  port  of  "the  hyperborean 
Latin  nation"  which  is  fast  settling  the  Upper  Saguenay  and  Lake  St. 
John  country.  Large  quantities  of  lumber  are  loaded  here  upon  British 
and  Scandinavian  ships,  and  a  flourishing  trade  is  carried  on  in  the 
autumn  by  sending  farm-produce  and  blueberries  to  Quebec,  —  the  latter 
being  packed  in  coffin-shaped  boxes  and  sold  fur  iiO  -  40  cents  a  bushel. 

The  steamer  touches  at  St.  Alphome  (Bagotville),  a  small  French  village, 
with  a  church  and  a  comfortable  hotel.  Calashes  run  from  the  pier  to 
St.  Altxis  (Grande  Bale),  3  M.  off,  around  tlie  bay,  crossing  the  Riviere  a 
MarSf  famous  for  its  salmon-fisheries  (rights  may  easily  be  bought  or 
leased).  3  M.  from  the  ba}',  near  the  falls  of  Mars  River,  are  the  three 
Gravel  L^kes,  famous  for  immense  and  delicious  red  trout.  The  mail-road 
is  prolonged  from  St.  Alexis,  through  the  uninhabited  wii(lern"ss  of  the 
Crown  Lands,  to  St.  Urbain  and  St.  Paul's  Bay  (see  page  292). 

«  The  long  line  of  sullen  hills  had  fallen  away,  and  the  morning  sun  shone  warm 
on  what  in  a  friendlier  climate  would  have  been  a  Tery  lovely  landscape.  The  bay 
was  an  irregular  ovul,  with  shores  that  rof^e  in  bold  but  not  lofty  heights  on  one 
side,  while  on  the  other  lay  a  narrow  plain  with  two  villages  clinging  about  the  road 
that  followed  the  crescent  beach,  and  lifting  each  the  slender  tin-clad  spire  of  its 
church  to  sparkle  in  the  sun.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  was  a  mountainous  top,  and 
along  its  waters  were  masses  of  rocks,  gayly  painted  with  lichens  and  stained  with 
metallic  tiuts  of  orange  and  scarlet."  i  Howells.) 

21  M.  from  Ha  Ha  Bay  is  Lac  d  la  Belle  Truite, 
and  beyond  is  the  Great  Ila  Ha  Lake,  among  the  mountains,  with  bold  capes  en- 
circling forests,  and  a  pretty  island.  6  M.  from  Belle  Truite  is  the  Little  Ha  Ua 
hake,  on  whose  shore  is  a  stupendous  cliff  nearly  2,000  ft.  high-  The  blue  peaks  of 
the  St.  Margaret  Mts.  are  about  30  M.  from  Fa  Ha  Bay,  and  sweep  from  Lake  St. 
John  to  Hudson's  Bay.  Carriages  may  be  taken  from  St.  Alphonse  to  Chicoutimi 
(12  M.),  and  for  longer  excursions  toward  Lake  St.  John. 

After  passing  the  dark  chasm  of  Ha  Ha  Bay,  Cape  East  is  seen  on  the  1., 
.  throwing  its  serrated  ledges  far  out  into  the  stream,  and  cutting  oflf  the 
retrospective  view.  Rugged  palisades  of  syenite  line  the  shores  on  both 
sides.  "  The  procession  of  the  pine-clad,  rounded  heights  on  either  shore 
began  shortly  after  Ha  Ha  Bay  had  disappeared  behind  a  curve,  and  It 
hardly  ceased,  save  at  one  point,  before  the  boat  re-entered  the  St.  Law- 
rence. The  shores  of  the  river  are  almost  uninhabited.  The  hills  rise 
from  the  water's  edge ;  and  if  ever  a  narrow  vale  divides  them,  it  is  but 
to  open  drearier  solitudes  to  the  eye."  Just  before  reaching  Cape  Rouge 
(1.  bank)  the  rav  ne  of  Descente  des  Femmes  opens  to  the  N.,  deriving  its 
singular  name  from  a  tradition  that  a  party  of  Indians  were  starving,  in 
the  back-country,  and  sent  their  squaws  for  help,  who  descended  to  the 
river  through  this  wild  gorge  and  secured  assistance. 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


RouU7S,      303 


On  the  r.  bank  is  *  Le  Tableau,  a  cliff  900  ft.  high,  whose  riverward 
face  contains  a  broad  sheet  of  dark  limestone,  600  X  800  ft.  in  area,  so 
smooth  and  straight  as  to  suggest  a  vast  canvas  prepared  for  a  picture. 
Still  farther  down  (r.  bank)  is 

"  *  Statue  Point,  where,  at  about  1,000  feet  above  the  water,  a  huge, 
rough  Gothic  arch  gives  entrance  to  a  cave,  in  which,  as  yet,  the  foot  of 
man  has  never  trodden.  Before  the  entrance  to  this  black  aperture,  a 
gigantic  rock,  like  the  statue  of  some  dead  Titan,  once  stood.  A  few 
years  ago,  during  the  winter,  it  gave  way,  and  the  monstrous  statue  came 
crashing  down  through  the  ice  of  the  Saguenay,  and  left  bare  to  view  the 
entrance  to  the  cavern  it  had  guarded  perhaps  for  ages.*' 

The  steamer  soon  passes  Cape  Trinity  on  the  r.  bank,  and  runs  in 
close  to  **  Eternity  Bay,  which  is  a  narrow  cove  between  the  majestic 
cliffs  of  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity.  The  water  is  150  fathoms  deep, 
and  the  cliffs  descend  abruptly  into  its  profoundest  parts.  *  Cape  Trinity 
consists  of  three  vast  superimposed  precipices,  each  of  which  is  5-600 
ft.  high,  on  whose  faces  are  seen  two  remarkable  profiles.  The  echo  in 
the  bay  is  wonderful,  and  is  usually  tested  by  discharging  a  gun  or  blow- 
ing a  whistle.  (In  recent  maps  and  descriptions  the  name  of  Eternity  has 
been  given  to  the  N.  cape,  and  Trinity  to  the  other.  This  is  not  correct, 
for  the  N.  cape  was  named  La  TiiniU  by  the  Jesuits  on  account  of  its 
union  of  three  vast  sections  into  one  mountain.  It  is  known  by  that  name 
among  the  old  pilots  and  river-people.  The  Editor  has  substituted  the 
correct  names  in  the  ensuing  quotations.) 

"  The  masterpiece  of  the  Saguenay  is  the  majesty  of  its  two  grandest  bulwarks, 
—  Cape  Trinity  and  Cape  Eternity,  —  enormous  masses  of  rock,  1,500  feet  high, 
rising  sheer  out  of  the  black  water,  and  jutting  forward  into  it  so  as  to  shelter  a  lit- 
tle bay  of  the  river  between  their  gloomy  portals.  In  the  sublimity  of  their  height 
and  steepness,  and  in  the  beautiful  effect  against  the  rock  of  the  pine-trees  which 
here  and  there  gain  a  dizzy  foothold,  nestling  trustfully  into  every  hollow  on  the 
face  of  the  tremendous  precipice,  these  capes  can  iiardly  l)e  surpassed  by  any  river- 
scene  in  the  world."    (>Vhite.) 

"  Suddenly  the  boat  rounded  the  comer  of  the  three  steps,  each  500  ft-  high,  in 
which  Cape  Trinity  climbs  from  the  river,  and  crept  in  under  the  naked  side  of  the 
awful  cliff.  It  is  sheer  rock,  springing  from  the  black  water,  and  stretching  upward 
with  a  weary,  effort-like  aspect,  in  long  impulses  of  stone  marked  by  deep  seams 
from  space  to  space,  till,  1,500  ft.  in  air,  its  vast  brow  beetles  forward,  and  frowns 

with  a  scattering  fringe  of  pines The  rock  fully  justifies  its  attributive  height 

to  the  eye,  which  follows  the  upward  rush  of  the  mighty  acclivity,  steep  after  st^p, 
till  it  wins  the  cloud-capt  summit,  when  the  measureless  mass  seems  to  swing  and 
sway  overhead,  and  the  nerves  tremble  with  the  same  terror  that  besets  him  who 
looks  downward  from  the  verge  of  a  lofty  precipice.  It  is  wholly  grim  and  stern  j 
no  touch  of  beauty  relieves  the  austere  majesty  of  that  presence.  At  the  foot  of 
Cape  Trinity  the  water  is  of  unknown  depth,  and  it  spreads,  a  black  expanse,  in  the 
rounding  hollow  of  shores  of  unimaginable  wildness  and  desolation,  and  issues 
again  in  its  river's  course  around  the  base  of  Cape  Eternity.  This  is  yet  loftier 
than  the  sister  cliff,  but  it  slopes  gently  backward  from  the  stream,  and  from  foot  to 
crest  it  is  heavily  clothed  with  a  forest  of  pines.  The  woods  that  hitherto  have 
shagged  the  hills  with  a  stunted  and  meagre  growth,  showing  long  stretches  scarred 
by  fire,  now  assume  a  stately  size,  and  assemble  themselves  compactly  upon  the  side 
of  the  mountain,  setting  their  serried  stems  one  rank  above  another,  till  the  summit 
is  crowned  with  the  mass  of  their  dark  green  plumes,  dense  and  soft  and  beautiM; 


304     JtauU  73. 


ETERNITY  BAY. 


lo  that  the  ipirlt,  perturbed  by  the  spectacle  of  the  other  cliff,  Is  calmed  and  as- 
suaged by  the  ferene  grandeur  of  this."    (Howells's  A  Chance  Acquaintance.) 

"  These  awful  clitfs,  plonted  in  water  nearly  a  thousund  feet  deep,  and  Boaiinginto 
the  very  sky,  form  the  gateway  to  a  rugged  valley,  stretching  inland,  and  covered 
with  the  dnrlc  primeval  forest  of  the  North.    I  doubt  whether  a  suhlimer  picture 

of  the  wilderness  is  to  be  found  on  this  continent The  wall  of  dun-rolored 

syenitic  granite,  ribbed  with  vertical  strealis  of  black,  hung  for  a  moment  directly 
over  our  heads,  as  high  as  three  Trinity  spires  atop  of  one  another.  Westward,  the 
wall  ran  inland,  prqjeoting  bastion  after  bastion  of  inaccessible  rock,  over  the  dark 
forests  in  the  bed  of  the  valley."    (Batard  Taylor.) 

*'  The  wild  scenery  of  tlie  river  culminates  at  a  little  inlet  on  the  right  bank  be- 
tween Capes  Trinity  and  Eternity.  Than  thei^e  two  dreadful  headlands  nothing  can 
be  imagined  more  grand  and  impressive.  For  one  brief  moment  the  rugged  charac- 
ter of  the  river  is  partly  softened,  and,  looking  back  into  the  deep  valley  between  the 
capes,  tlie  land  has  an  aspect  of  life  and  mild  luxuriance  which,  though  not  rich, 
at  least  seems  so  in  comparison  with  the  grievous  awful  barrenness.  Cape  Eternity 
on  |hi8  side  towards  the  landward  opening  is  pretty  thickly  clothed  with  fir  and  birch 
mingled  together  in  a  color  contrast  which  is  beautiful  enough,  especially  where  the 
rocks  show  out  among  them,  with  their  little  cascades  and  waterfalls  like  strips  of 
silver  shining  in  the  sun.  But  Cape  Trinity  well  becomes  its  name,  and  is  the  reverse 
of  all  this.  It  seems  to  frown  in  gloomy  indignation  on  its  brother  for  the  weakness  it 
betrays  in  allowing  anything  like  life  or  verdure  to  shield  its  wild,  uncouth  deformity 
of  strength.  Cape  Trinity  certainly  shows  no  sign  of  relaxing  in  this  respect  from 
its  deep  savage  grandeur.  It  is  one  tremendous  cliff  of  limestone,  more  than  1,500 
feet  high,  and  inclining  forward  more  than  200  feet,  brow-beating  all  beneath  it, and 
seeming  m  if  at  any  moment  it  would  fall  and  overwhelm  the  deep  black  stream 
which  flows  so  cold  and  motionless  down  below.  High  up,  on  its  rough  gray  brows. 
a  few  stunted  pines  show  like  bristles  their  scathed  white  arms,  giving  an  awful 
weird  aspect  to  the  mass,  blanched  here  and  there  by  the  tempests  of  ages,  stained 
and  discolored  by  little  waterfalls  in  blotchy  and  decaying  spots.  Unlike  Niagara, 
and  all  other  of  God's  great  works  in  nature,  one  does  not  wish  for  silence  or  soli- 
tude here.  Companionship  becomes  doubly  necessary  in  an  awful  solitude  like  this." 
(London  Times.') 

When  the  Flying  Fish  ascended  the  river  with  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  suite, 
one  of  her  heavy  68-pounders  was  fired  off  near  Cape  Trinity.  "  For  the  space  of  half 
a  minute  or  so  after  the  discharge  there  was  a  dead  silence,  and  then,  as  if  the  report 
and  concu.ssion  were  hurled  back  upon  the  decks,  the  echoes  came  down  crash  upon 
crash.  It  seemed  as  if  the  rocks  and  crags  had  all  sprung  into  life  under  the  tre- 
mendous din,  and  as  if  each  was  firing  68-pounders  full  upon  us,  in  sharp,  crushing 
volleys,  till  at  last  they  grew  hoarser  and  hoarser  in  their  anger,  and  retreated,  bellow- 
ing slowly,  carrying  the  tale  of  invaded  solitude  from  hill  to  hill,  till  all  the  distant 
mountains  seemed  to  roar  and  groan  at  the  intrusion." 

St.  John's  Bay  (r.  bank)  is  6  M.  below  Eternity  Bay,  and  is  shallow 
enough  to  afford  an  anchorage  for  shipping.  It  is  2  M  wide  and  3  M.  long, 
and  receives  the  St.  John  River.  At  its  end  is  a  small  hamlet,  situated  in 
a  narrow  valley  which  appears  beautiful  in  contrast  with  the  surrounding 
cliffs.  Far  inland  are  seen  the  blue  peaks  of  distant  mountains.  In  the 
little  cove  opposite  is  the  white  thread  of  a  lofty  cascade. 

The  Little  Saguenay  River  (r.  bank)  is  4  M.  below,  and  flows  down  out 
of  a  bristling  wilderness  where  are  famous  Indian  huntirg-grounds  and 
pools  filled  with  trout.  A  short  distance  below  are  the  islets  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Riviere  aux  Canards.  The  steamer  then  sweeps  by  the  St.  Louis 
Isle,  a  granite  rock,  ^  M.  long,  covered  with  firs,  spruces,  and  birch-trees. 
There  is  1,200  ft.  depth  of  water  around  this  islet,  in  which  are  multitudes 
of  salmon-trout.  On  the  r.  bank  are  the  massive  promontories  of  Cape 
Victoria  and  Cape  George.  The  *  retrospect  from  this  point  affords  one 
of  the  grandest  views  on  the  river.    2  M.  below  (1.  bank)  is  seen  the  inter- 


.^ 


QUEBEC  TO  MONTREAL.       Haute  74.      305 

▼bIm  of  the  St.  Marguerite  River,  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Sagaenay,  de-' 
sceuding  from  a  lake  far  N.  of  Chicout[mi,  and  famous  for  its  salmon-fisher- 
ies (leased).  It  is  a  swift  stream,  flecked  with  rapids,  but  is  navigable  for  20 
M.  by  canoes;  and  flows  from  a  valuable  region  of  hard-wood  trees.  There 
are  huts  along  the  strand  at  its  mouth,  and  vessels  are  usually  seen  at  an- 
chor here;  while  far  inland  are  bare  and  rugged  ridges.  The  tall  promon- 
tory beyond  this  river  is  seamed  with  remarkable  trap-dikes,  of  a  color 
approaching  black;  opposite  which  is  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Athanase. 

Beyond  Point  Crepe  (r.  bank)  is  the  deep  cove  of  St.  Etienne  Bay,  afford- 
ing an  ancliorage,  and  bordered  with  narrow  strips  of  alluvial  land.  The 
steamer  now  sweeps  rapidly  down,  between  immense  cliffs,  and  with  but 
narrow  reaches  of  the  river  visible  ahead  and  astern.  Beyond  the  Pa^e 
Pierre  Ides  (r.  bank)  it  approaches  a  castellated  crag  on  the  r.,  opposite 
which  is  the  frowning  promontory  called  *  Fointe  la  Boule,  a  vast  granite 
mountain  which  narrows  the  channel  to  very  close  confines.  From  Pointe 
la  Boule  to  Tadousac,  the  riverilows  between  escarped  cliffs  of  feldspathic 
granite,  with  an  appearance  resembling  stratification  dipping  to  the  S.  E. 
Their  lofly  rounded  summits  are  nearly  barren,  or  at  most  support  a  thin 
fringe  of  low  trees ;  and  the  sheer  descent  of  the  sides  is  prolonged  to  a 
great  depth  beneath  the  water. 

The  vessel  calls  at  L'Anse  a  DEau,  the  little  cove  near  Tadousac  (see 
page  299);  and  soon  afterwards  steams  out  into  the  broad  St.  Lawrence, 
in  the  darkness  of  evening.  The  next  morning,  the  traveller  awakes  at  or 
near  Quebec. 


74.   Quebec  to  Montreal— The  St.  Lawrence  River. 

The  river-route  is  by  the  steamboats  of  the  Richelieu  Companj,  leaving  Quebeo 
at  evening.  It  is  69  M.  from  Quebec  to  Batiscan,  90  M.  to  Three  Rivera,  135  M. 
to  Sorel,  and  180  M.  to  Montreal. 

The  shortest  route  by  rail  between  the  two  cities  is  the  Quebec,  Montreal,  Ottawa 
and  Occidental  Railway,  along  the  North  Shore. 

Stations. — Quebec  to  Lake  St.  John  Junction.  4  M. ;  Lorette,  8;  Passe  Para> 
dis,  14 ;  Ste.  Jeanne  de  Neuville,  26 ;  St.  Bazile,  30 ;  Portneuf,  35 ;  Deschambault, 
89 ;  Lachevroti^re,  42 :  Grondines,  45 ;  St.  Anne  de  la  Perade,  53 ;  Batiscan,  58 ; 
Cham  plain,  65 ;  Piles  Branch  Junction,  75 ;  Three  Rivers  R:,  78  ;  Pointe  du  I^ac, 
86;  Yamachiche,  93;  Louise  Ville,  98 ;  Maskinong^,  102;  St.  Barth^lemi,  108 ; 
St.  Cuthbert,  111 ;  Berthier,  116  ;  Lanoraic  Junction,  124  ;  \a  Yaltriu  Road,  129  ; 
L'Assomption,  133;  L'Epiphanie,  137;  St.  Henri  de  Mascouche,  145 ;  Terrebonne, 
149 ;  St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  155 ;  Montreal,  170. 

The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  runs  two  trains  daily  between  Quebec  and  Montreal. 
SKat/oTM— Quebec  (Point  Levi) ;  Hadlow,  2  M. ;  Chaudi^re  Curve.  8  ;  Craig's  Road, 
15;  Black  River,  20;  Methot*s  Mills,  28 ;  Lyster,  37;  Becancour,  41 ;  Somerset,  49 ; 
Stanfold,  55 ;  Arthabaska,  64 ;  Warwick,  71 ;  Danville,  84 ;  Richmond,  96 ;  New 
Durham,  103  ;  Acton,  118  ;  Upton,  124 ;  Britannia  Mills,  130 ;  St.  Hyacinthe,  137  ; 
Soixante,  144 ;  St.  Hilaire,  150 ;  St.  Bruno,  157 ;  St.  Hubert,  162 ;  St.  Lambert, 
167 ;  Montreal,  172. 

"  It  could  really  be  called  a  village,  beginning  at  Montreal  and  ending  at  Quebeo, 
which  is  a  distance  of  more  than  180  M. ;  for  the  form-houses  are  never  more  than  five 
arpents  apart,  and  sometimes  but  three  asunder,  a  few  places  excepted.'*  (Kaim,  the 
Swedish  traveller,  In  1749.)  In  1684  La  Hontan  said  that  the  houses  along  these  shore* 
vere  never  more  tlian  a  gunshot  apart.    The  inhabitants  are  simple-minded  and 

T 


306    £<yuu  74, 


ST.  AUGUSTIN. 


vrimiliTV  In  ihdr  ways,  tenacioiuly  tetaining  the  Catholic  fUth  and  the  French 
luigaage  and  customs.  Emeiy  de  Caen,  Cbamplain's  contemporaiy ,  told  the  Hugue- 
not sailors  that  "  Monseigneur,  the  Duke  de  Yentadour  (Viceroy),  did  not  vitih  that 
tbey  should  sing  psalms  in  the  Oi'eat  River/'  When  the  first  steamboat  ascended 
this  riTer,  an  old  Canadian  voyageur  exclaimed,  in  astonishment  and  doubt,  "  Mais 
croyez-Tous  que  le  bon  Dieu  permettra  tout  cela ! " 

As  the  steamboat  swings  out  into  the  stream  a  fine  series  of  views  are 
afforded,  including  Quebec  and  the  Basin,  tlie  bold  bluffs  of  Point  Levi, 
and  the  dark  wal!s  of  the  Citadel,  almost  overhead.  As  the  river  is  as- 
cended, the  villas  of  Sillery  and  Cap  Kouge  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  on  the 
1.  are  the  wharves  and  villages  of  South  Quebec  and  New  Liverpool,  be- 
yond which  are  the  mouths  of  the  Etchemin  and  Chaudi^re  Rivers.  St. 
Augustin  is  on  the  N.  shore,  15  M.  above  Quebec,  and  has  a  Calvaire,  to 
which  many  pilgrimages  are  made,  and  a  statue  of  the  Guardian  Angel, 
erected  on  a  base  of  cut  stone  in  front  of  the  church,  and  commemorating 
the  Vatican  Council  of  1870. 

Near  the  village  is  a  ruined  church  dating  ttom  1720.  at  whose  construction  the 
Devil  is  said  to  have  assisted,  in  the  form  of  a  powerful  black  stallion  who  hauled  in 
the  blocks  of  stone,  until  his  driver  unbridled  him  at  a  watering-place,  when  he 
vanished  if  a  cloud  of  sulphur-smoke.  In  front  of  St.  Augustine  tbe  French  frigate 
Atalante  surrendered  to  the  British  fleet  in  1760,  after  a  heroic  but  hopeless  battle ; 
and  in  the  same  waters  the  steamer  Montreal  was  burned  in  1867,  and  200  passen- 
gers lost  their  lives. 

Pointe  attx  Trembles  is  3  M.  above  St.  Augustin  (N.  shore,  and  is  a  ship- 
building village  of  700  inhabitants.  Here  many  of  the  ladies  of  Quebec 
took  refuge  during  Wolfe's  siege  (1759),  and  were  captured  by  his  Gren- 
adiers. Here  also  the  American  armies  of  Arnold  and  Jblontgomery  united 
their  forces  (Dec.  1,  1775)  before  the  disastrous  assault  on  Quebec.  Pass- 
ing the  hamlet  of  St.  Antoine  de  Tilly,  on  the  S.  shore,  the  village  of  Ze« 
EcureniU  is  seen  on  the  N.,  7  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles.  This  is 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Jacques  Cartier  Biver,  famous  for  its  remarkable 
scenery  and  for  its  fine  trout-fishing  (on  the  upper  waters).  On  the  heights 
near  the  mouth  of  the  river  was  Fort  Jacques  Cartier^  to  which  10,000 
French  troops  retreated  after  the  defeat  of  Montcalm.  Nearly  a  year  later 
(June,  1760)  the  fort  was  held  by  the  Marquis  d'Albergotti,  and  was  bom- 
barded and  taken  by  Eraser's  Highlanders. 

6  M.  above  Les  Ecureuils  is  St.  Croix  (S.  shore),  a  village  of  750  in- 
habitants, with  a  black  nunnery  and  the  public  buildings  of  Lotbini^re 
County.  8  M.  beyond  (N.  shore)  is  Portneuf^  a  prosperous  little  iown 
with  paper-mills  and  a  large  country  trade.  This  seigniory  was  granted 
to  M.  Le  Neuf  by  the  Cent  Associds  in  1647,  and  w^as  completely  deso- 
lated by  the  famishing  French  cavalry  in  1759.  Beyond  this  point  the 
scenery  becomes  less  picturesque,  and  the  bold  ridges  of  the  Laurentian 
Mts.  sink  down  into  level  lowlands.  Deschambmdt  (N.  shore)  has  500  in- 
habitants, with  a  trade  in  lumber  and  flour.  Lotbiniere  (S.  shore)  is  a 
town  of  2,500  inhabitants,  with  a  Convent  of  the  Bon  Pasteur  and  two 
ttoye-foundries.    Qrondinet  (N.  shore)  is  8  M.  beyond  Deschambault,  and 


THREE  BIVEBS. 


Jtoute  74,      307 


to 


50  !n- 
nifere 
iown 
anted 
deso- 
nt  the 
entian 
00  in- 
)  is  a 
d  two 
t,  and 


i 


has  400  inhabitants;  and  iSt.  Jean  DetchaiUom  (S.  shore)  is  noted  fbr  its 
brickyards.  8t.  Anne  de  laPerade  (N.  shore)  has  a  great  church,  and  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Anne  River,  which  is  here  crossed  by  a 
bridge  1,500  ft.  long.  Beyond  St.  Pierre  lee  Becquets  (S.  shore)  is  the 
busy  little  port  of  Batiscan  (N.  ihore),  with  its  two  lighthouses;  Gentilly 
(S.  shore)  has  600  inhabitants  and  the  Convent  of  the  Assumption;  and 
Champlain  (N.  shore)  has  400  inhabitants. 

Three  Rivers  {British  American  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  9,000  inhabitants, 
midway  between  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  at  the  head  of  tide-water  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  River.  It  was  founded  in  1618,  under  the  name  of  Trois 
Rivieres,  and  played  an  important  part  in  the  early  history  of  Canada. 
The  chief  buildings  are  the  stately  Catholic  Cathedral,  the  Court-House,, 
the  Ursuline  Convent,  St.  Joseph's  College,  and  the  Episcopal  and  Wes« 
leyan  churches.  The  city  has  a  bank,  2  Masonic  lodges,  and  4  semi- 
weekly  and  weekly  newspapers  (2  of  which  are  French).  Besides  the 
daily  boats  of  the  Richelieu  Line,  there  are  5  steamboats  plying  from  this 
port  to  the  adjacent  river-villages.  It  is  connected  with  Quebec  and 
Montreal  by  the  Three-Rivers  Branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  and 
by  the  North-Shore  Railway,  and  has  built  a  new  line  up  the  St.  Mau> 
rice  Valley  to  Grand  Piles.  There  are  large  iron-works  and  machine- 
shops  here,  and  stoves  and  car-wheels  are  made  in  great  numbers  from 
bog-iron  ore.  The  chief  industry  is  the  shipment  of  lumber,  which  comes 
down  the  St.  Maurice  River.  The  Canadian  government  has  expended 
$200,000  in  improving  the  navigation  on  the  St.  Maurice,  and  over 
$1,000,000  has  been  invested  in  mills  and  booms  above. 

The  St.  Maurice  Biver  waters  a  district  of  immense  (and  unknown)  extent, 
abounding  in  lakes  and  forests.  Portions  of  this  great  northern  wilderness  liave 
been  visited  by  the  lumbermen,  who  conduct  ^fts  to  Three  Rivers,  where  the  lumber 
is  sawed.  About  22  M.  above  the  city  are  the  noble  Falls  of  the  Shawanegan, 
where  the  great  river  plunges  over  a  perpendicular  descent  of  ^50  ft.  between  the 
lofty  rocks  called  La  Grand''  Mere  and  Le  Bonhomme.  A  few  miles  above  are  the 
Fa}l8  of  the  Grand'  Mire.  These  falls  are  visited  by  engaging  canoes  and  guides  at 
Tliree  Rivers,  while  hunting-parties  conducted  by  Canadian  voyas;eurs  or  Algonquin 
Indians  sometimes  pass  thence  into  ^.he  remote  northnrn  forests  in  pursuit  of  the 
larger  varieties  of  game.  The  head-waters  of  the  St.  j^Iaurice  are  interlocked  with 
those  of  the  Saguenay. 

Across  the  St.  Maurice  is  the  thriving  village  of  Cap  de  la  Magdelame ;  and  on 
the  S.  shore  are  Becancour,  the  capital  of  Nicolet  County,  and  St.  Angel  de  Laval 
(Doucett's  Landing),  the  terminus  of  a  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

The  steamer  soon  enters  Lake  St.  Peter,  a  shallow  widening  c  f  the  river 
22  M.  long  and  8  M.  broad.  It  has  a  deep  and  narrow  channel  (partly  ar- 
titiclal),  which  is  marked  out  by  buoys  and  poles,  and  is  used  by  large 
vessels.  Immense  lumber-rafts  are  often  seen  here,  drifting  downward 
l<L.e  floating  islands,  and  bearing  streamers,  sails,  and  the  rude  huts  of  the 
lumbermen.  In  stormy  weather  on  the  lake  these  rafts  sometimes  come 
to  pieces.  The  inlets  along  the  low  shores  afford  good  duck-shooting;  and 
enormous  quantities  of  eels  and  pike  are  taken  from  the  waters.    Near  the 


308     Route  74. 


SOBEL. 


E.  end  of  the  lake,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nicolet  River,  is  the  popnlona 
town  of  Nieolet,  famous  for  its  flour  and  lumber  trade  and  for  its  noble 
college,  with  its  250  students  and  a  library  of  10,000  volumes.  The  build- 
ings are  surrounded  by  attractive  parks  and  gardens.  On  the  N-  shore  is 
Bivi^re  du  Loup  en  haut,  near  which  are  the  celebrated  St.  Leon  Springs 
(reached  by  daily  stage  from  Three  Rivers,  in  24  M. ;  fare,  $  1.50 ;  Gil- 
man's  Hotel,  and  others).  St.  Francois  du  Lac  is  a  pretty  village  on  the 
S.  W.  shore,  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  St.  Francis  River. 

On  leaving  Lake  St.  Peter,  the  steamer  threads  her  way  through  an 
archipelago  of  low  islands,  and  soon  reaches  Sorel  (four  hotels),  a  city  of 
7,500  inhabitants,  with  3  weekly  papers  (2  French),  a  Catholic  college, 
several  shipyards  and  foundries,  and  a  large  country  trade.  It  is  at  the 
mouth  of  the  great  River  Richelieu,  the  outlet  of  Lake  George  and  Lake 
Champlain,  whose  head-waters  are  interlocked  with  those  of  the  Hudson. 
Navigation  is  kept  up  between  this  point  and  the  Lake-Champlain  ports  by 
the  Chambly  Canal.  The  town  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  its  broad  streets 
are  adornedjwith  trees.  In  the  centre  is  the  Royal  Square,  whose  fine  old 
elms  are  much  admired.  Sorel  is  the  terminus  of  the  northern  division  of 
the  Southeastern  Kailwaj'. 

Fort  Richelieu  was  built  on  this  oite  in  1641,  and  was  re-constructed  and  enlarged 
by  Capt.  Sorel,  of  the  Garignan  Regiment,  under  orders  from  Gov.  de  Tracy  (1665). 
In  November,  1775,  it  was  occupied  by  Col  Easton,  with  a  strong  force  of  Continen- 
tal troops  and  a  flotilla,  and  this  detachment  captured  11  sail  of  vessels,  containing 
Gen.  Prescott  and  the  British  garrison  of  Montreal.  Sorel  was  for  many  years  the 
summer  residence  of  the  Canadiflin  governors,  and  on  being  visited  by  Prince  Wil- 
liam Henry  of  England  (afterward  King  William  lY.)  an  abortive  attempt  was  made 
to  change  its  name  to  William  Henry. 

Berthier  en  kaut  is  6  M.  above  Sorel,  on  the  N.  shore  (semi-daily  steam- 
ers), and  is  an  important  manufacturing  town  of  1,700  inhabitants,  situated 
amid  rich  farming  lands.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  M.  Faribault,  long  time 
a  N.  W.  Commissioner,  and  founder  of  Faribault,  Minnesota.  Back  of 
Berthier  are  the  populous  towns  of  St.  Cuthbert,  St.  Norbet,  St.  Felix  de 
Valois,  and  St.  Elizabeth.  Lanoraie  is  9  M.  above  Berthier  (N.  Shore), 
and  is  the  terminus  of  the  St.  Lawrence  &  Industry  Railway,  which 
runs  N.  W.  12  M.  to  St.  Thomas  and  Joliette,  and  thence  into  Montcalm 
County.  15  M.  above  Sorel  (S.  shore)  is  Contrecoeur,  noted  for  its  maple- 
sugar;  and  Lavaltrie  is  15  M.  above  Berthier  (N.  shore),  and  has  2 
lighthouses.  6  M.  above  is  St.  Sulpice  (N.  shore),  beyond  which  is  L'As- 
somption  (Hotel  Richard),  a  prosperous  village  of  2,600  inhabitants. 
Above  the  N.  shore  village  of  Repentigny  the  N.  branch  of  the  Ottawa 
River  (Rividre  des  Prairies)  flows  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  having  diverged 
from  the  Ottawa  at  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains. 

Varennes  io  0  pretty  village  on  the  S.  shore,  opposite  Isle  St.  Therese, 
and  connected  f>y  a  ferry  with  Bou«-  de  I'lsle,  a;id  with  Montreal  (16  M.  dis- 
tant) by  a  dall^  steamer.    It  has  825  inhabitants,  and  manufactures  many 


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MONTREAL. 


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MONTREAL. 


JtmUe  75,      309 


carriages.  The  chnrch  is  a  large  and  stately  building,  with  two  conspien- 
ous  towers.  1  M.  from  the  village  are  the  celebrated  Varenne$  Spring$^ 
which  are  saline  in  character  and  possessed  of  valuable  medicinal  proper- 
ties. One  of  them  emits  great  quantities  of  carbonated  hydrogen  gns,  and 
the  other  yields  2-8  gallons  a  minute,  and  is  much  visited  by  invalids. 
Arrangements  are  being  made  to  establish  a  first-cliiss  summer  resort  at 
this  point.  Above  Varennes  is  Boucherville,  the  birthplace  of  Chief  Justice 
Sir  Louis  Hippolyte  Lafontaine.  The  low  and  marshy  islands  off  this  shore 
are  famous  for  duck-shooting,  and  for  the  ice-dams  which  form  here  at 
the  close  of  the  winter.  Pointt  aux  Trembles  is  to  the  N.,  on  the  Island  of 
Montreal,  and  is  an  ancient  village  dating  from  1674. 

"  We  were  gliding  past  LonKueuil  and  Boucherville  on  the  (left),  and  Pointe  aux 
jyemblex, '  so  called  from  having  been  originally  covered  with  aspens,^  on  the  (right). 
I  repeat  these  names  not  merely  for  want  of  more  substantial  facts  to  record,  but 
because  they  sounded  singularly  poetic  in  my  ears.  There  certainly  was  no  lie  in 
them.  They  suggested  that  .some  simple  and  perchance  heroic  human  life  might 
have  transpired  there. ' '    (Thoreau.  ) 

Clustering  villages  are  now  seen  on  either  shore,  and  the  river  is  strewn 
with  low  islands.  At  9  M.  above  Pointe  aux  Trembles  the  steamer  reaches 
her  pier  at  Moutreali  with  the  magnificent  Victoria  Bridge  spanning  the 
river  in  front. 

75.   Montreal. 

Hotels.  —  *  The  Windsor,  on  Dominion  Square,  in  an  elevated  and  quiet  part  of 
the  city,  not  far  from  tiie  Muunt-Koyui  Vurk,  is  uudoubtediy  one  of  the  most  mag> 
nificeut  hotels  in  America.  Its  arubitecture  is  very  iuipo.siug,  and  witliiu  it  has  a 
(iplendid  frescoed  rocunda,  marble  staircases,  an  imraeuse  dining-hall,  and  hun- 
dreds of  airy  aud  comfortable  chambers,  with  hot  and  cold  water,  and  all  conven- 
ieuces. 

St.  Lawrence  Hull,  139  St.  James  St.,  is  a  comfortable  hotel  in  the  centre  of  the 
city,  near  the  post-office  and  banks.  The  Albion,  141  MvUill  St.,  is  frequented  by 
country  merchants  aud  commercial  men.  The  American  is  on  St.  Josepb  St.,- and 
has  many  dealers  in  hordes  and  cattle  among  its  patrons.  The  chief  French  hotels 
are  tlie  Richelieu,  a  well-kept  house  on  St.  Vincent  St. ;  and  the  Canada,  on  St. 
Gabriel  St.     Uotel-omnibuses  inuet  all  trains  and  bouts. 

Kesttaurants.  —  Alexander's,  391  Notre  Dame  St. ;  Freeman's,  231  St.  James 
St. ;  Compaiu'e',  116  St.  Fran9()i8  Xavier  St. ;  The  Bodega,  3tj6  Notre  Dame  St.  ;  Vic- 
tor's, 145  St.  James  St. ;  Walker's,  872  Notre  Dame  St. 

Clubs.  —Metropolitan,  on  Beaver  Hall ;  and  St.  James,  on  Dorchester  St. 

Amusements. —  Theatre  Royal,  19  Cott«5  St.,  open  usually  during  the  sum- 
mer. Operatic  and  theatrical  entertainments,  in  winter,  at  the  Academy  of  Music, 
Victoria  St .  Lectures  are  given  at  the  Association  Hall,  corner  of  Craig  St.  and 
Victoria  Square.  Lectures  and  other  entertainments  are  also  given  at  thti  hall  of 
the  Mwihanics'  Institute,  204  St.  James  St.  Tlie  Victoria  Skating  Rink,  Drummond 
and  Dorchester  Sts.,  is  famous  for  its  winter  carnivals.  LiJicrosse,  the  Canadian 
national  game,  is  played  at  the  grounds  on  Sherbroo!ce  St.  We«t  and  St.  Catherine  St. 
West.  Football,  oiicket,  golf,  bicycling,  fox-hunting,  racket,  lawn  tennis,  horse- 
THcing,  tobogganing,  snow-shoeing,  curling,  all  have  their  devotees  and  their  head- 
quarters     The  Thistle  Rink  in  near  the  Crystal  Palace. 

Readinar-Rooms.— Young  Men's  Christian  As-sociation,  Victoria  Square; 
Merchants'  Exchange.  11  St.  Sacrament  St.  ;  Mechanics'  Institute,  204  St.  Jamea 
St. ;  Institut  Caaa*Uen,  111  Notre  Dome  St. ;  Union  CathoUqae  (20,000  vols.),  St. 
Mary's  Church. 


310     Jtoute  75. 


MONTREAL. 


Post-Offlce,  on  St.  James  St.,  near  St.  Fran9ois  Xavier  St.  Telegraph,  central 
office  of  the  Montreal  Telegraph  Company,  corner  of  St.  Sacrament  and  St.  FraD9oia 
Xavier  St^.  J/onf^f/.  —  American  and  British  gold  and  paper  money  passes  at  par, 
but  silver  is  nt  a  diHcount. 

Carriages.  —  (One-horse.)  For  1  - 2  persons,  for  20  minutes,  25  cents;  for  ^ 
hr.,  40c.  ;  by  the  hour,  75  c,  and  60  c.  for  each  additional  hour.  For  3-4  per- 
sons, for  20  minutes,  or  less,  60  c. ;  for  h  hr..  60  c  ;  by  the  hour,  $  1,  and  75c.  for 
each  additional  hour.  (Two-horse  carriages.)  For  1-2  persons,  for  ^  hr.,  or  less, 
65  c. ;  by  the  hour,  .f  1.  For  3-4  persons,  for  ,\  hr. ,  or  less,  75c. ;  by  the  hour,  S  \:^a. 
Fractions  of  hours  charged  i)ro  rata.  The  tariff  by  the  hour  applies  to  all  rural 
excursions,  for  which  carriagesare  engaged  in  the  city.  The  legal  tariff  is  augmented 
60  per  cent  between  midnigat  and  4  a.  m.    Trunks  and  bo.xe!«,  10  c.  each. 

Horse-cars  run  across  the  city  on  Craig,  Dleury,  and  Sti  Catherine  Sts.  ;  also 
on  St.  Mary,  Notre  Dame,  and  St.  Joseph  Sts.  ;  and  out  St.  Lawrence  Main  St.  to  St. 
Jean  Baptiste. 

Kail  ways*  —To  Boston  by  way  of  St  Albans,  Concord,  and  Lowell,  in  334  M.  ; 
or  by  way  of  Fitchburg,  in  344  M. ;  or  by  the  new  route,  the  Southeastern  Railway. 
To  New  York,  by  Rutland  and  Albany,  335  M.  ( by  Lake  Champlain ,  405  M. ) ;  to  Que- 
bec, 172  M.  (in  7  hrs  ) ;  to  Plattsburg,  63  M. ;  to  Rouse's  Point,  50  M. ;  to  Toronto, 
833  M.  (14-15  hrs.) ;  to  Detroit  (861  M.)  and  Chicago  (1,145  M.) ;  to  Ottawa,  164  M. 

Stages  run  out  from  Montreal  in  all  directions,  daily.  To  St.  C^saire,  Marieville, 
and  Chambly  ;  St.  Eustache,  St.  Augu.stin,  St.  Scholastique,  St.  Columban,  and  St. 
Canut;  New  Glasgow,  Kilkenny,  St.  Jerome,  Stanbridge,St.  Lin,  St.  Hippolyte,  St. 
Agathe  des  Monts,  St.  Ad^le,  St.  Janvier,  St.  Th^rese  de  Blainville,  St.  Sophie ; 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  Mascouche,  Terrebonne,  and  St.  Sauveur ;  Pointe  aux  Trembles, 
Bault  au  Recollet,  and  St.  Martin. 

Steains1ti|»s.  —  The  first-class  ocean  steamships  of  the  .\llan  Line  and  the  Do- 
minion Line  leave  Montre.il  2-3  times  weekly  during  the  ?eason  of  navigation,  for 
Liverpool  and  Glasgow.  The  Beaver,  Donaldson,  Temperk'v,  Ross,  Thomson,  and 
Great  Western  Lines  also  run  weekly  and  fortnightly  steamships  between  Montreal 
and  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  London,  Bristol,  and  Newc;istl«-on-Tyne ;  the  White  Cross 
Line,  to  Antwerp  ;  the  Canadian  and  Bnizilian,  to  the  We.st  Indies  and  Brazil ;  and 
the  Montreal  and  Acadian,  to  St.  John's,  Newfoundland.  The  Richelieu  Line  runs 
daily  steamers  to  the  lower  river-ports  and  Quebec.  The  morningandcvi.ning  trains 
to  Lachine  connect  with  the  steamboats  for  Ottawa,  by  way  of  the  Ottawa  Kiver.  The 
vessels  of  the  Canadian  Navigation  Compmy  .ascend  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Like  On- 
tario, from  Montreal  to  the  upper  river-ports,  Toronto  and  Hamilton.  The  St. 
Helene  and  Oftaioa  make  semi-weekly  trips  to  the  Bay  of  Quint6.  The  Quebec 
S.  S.  Co.  despatches  a  weekly  steamer  from  Montreal  to  Perec,  Charlottefown,  and 
Pictou.  The  Chamhly  runs  .semi-weekly  from  Montreal  to  Verch^res,  Contrecoeur, 
Sorel,  St.  Ours.  St.  Denis,  St.  Antoine,  St.  Charles,  St.  Marc,  St.  Hilaire,  Beloeil,  St- 
Matthias,  and  Chambly  (flO  M.).  The  Three  Rwers  runs  semi-weekly  to  Verch^res, 
Sorel,  Maskinong^,  Riviere  du  Loup  en  Iiaut,  Yamachiche,  Port  St.  Francis, 
Champlain,  and  Three  Rivers.  The  yier//tier  runs  .semi-weekly  to  Repentigny,  St. 
Sulpice,  Lavaltrie,  Lanoraie,  and  Berthier.  The  Terrebonne  runs  daily  to  Bou- 
cherville,  Varennes,  Bout  de  I'Isle,  Lachenaie,  L'Assomption,  and  Terrebonne 
(24  M.).  Ferry  steamers  cross  the  river  at  frequent  interval  to  La  Prairie,  St.  Lam- 
bert, and  Longueuil. 

Montreal,  the  metropolis  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  "the  Queen 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  on  the  continent. 
It  is  situated  on  an  island  (at  the  confluence  of  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Law- 
rence Rivers)  containing  197  square  miles,  and  which,  from  its  fertility, 
has  been  called  the  Garden  of  Canada.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  1^  M.  wide 
opposite  the  city,  and  the  rivei'-front  is  lined  for  over  1  M.  with  lofty  and 
massive  walls,  quays,  and  terraces  of  gray  limestone,  unequalled  else- 
where in  the  world,  except  at  Liverpool,  Paris,  and  St.  Petersburg.  The 
commercial  buildings  of  the  city  are  generally  of  stone,  in  plain  and  substan- 


; 


MONTREAL. 


Route  75,     311 


tial  architecture,  and  the  namber  of  fine  public  buildings  is  verj  large. 
Three  fourths  of  the  population  are  Catholics,  most  of  whom  are  French,  and 
the  bright  suburban  villages  are  almost  entirely  inhabited  by  Frenchmen. 
Although  Montreal  is  986  M.  from  the  sea,  it  is  the  port  which  receives  the 
greater  part  of  the  importations  to  Canada;  and  its  manufacturing  interests 
are  extensive  and  important.  The  admirable  systems  of  railway  and 
steamboat  communication  which  centre  here,  have  made  it  the  commercial 
emporium  of  the  North;  and  new  lines  of  traffic  and  internal  railways 
are  being  built  from  year  to  year,  binding  all  the  St.  Lawrence  counties  to 
this  city.  Montreal  forms  the  Metropolitical  See  of  the  Anglican  Church 
in  Canada,  and  is  the  capital  of  a  Roman-Catholic  diocese.  The  water- 
supply,  street-lamps,  paving,  and  fire  department  are  similar  to  tbose  of 
American  cities  of  the  first  rank. 

The  population  of  Montreal  was  140,747,  at  the  census  of  1881,  and 
there  are  60,000  more  in  the  adjacent  villages  on  the  island.  Of  the  citi- 
zens, 80,000  are  French,  30,000  Irish,  and  105,000  Roman  Catholics. 
The  valuation  of  real  estate  is  about  $65,000,000;  its  imports  in  1880, 
$37,103,869 ;  and  its  exports,  $  30,224,004.  In  the  same  year  710  vessels 
arrived  here  from  the  sea,  and  the  customs  revenue  was  $  5,232,789.  The 
city  lias  19  banks,  74  churches,  and  more  than  30  newspapers  and  magazines 
(in  English  and  French).  There  are  numerous  charitable  and  benevolent 
organizations,  and  societies  for  the  English,  Scotch,  Irish,  French,  Ger- 
man, and  New-England  residents. 

The  Victoria  Square  is  a  public  ground  at  the  intersection  of 'McGill 
and  St.  James  Sts.,  ornamented  with  a  fountain  and  a  bronze  statue  of 
Queen  Victoria.  On  its  S.  side  is  the  elegant  Gothic  building  which  per- 
tains to  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  the  oldest  society  of  that 
name  in  America.  On  the  lower  side  of  the  Square  are  the  stately  Albert 
Buildings,  devoted  to  commerce. 

Passing  to  the  N.  E.  along  St.  James  St.,  the  visitor  sees  many  fine 
stores,  and  the  attractive  buildings  of  *Molson's  Bank  (of  Ohio  stone  and 
Scotch  granite),  the  Merchants*  Bank,  the  stately  new  *  Post-Office,  and 
other  svmmetrical  and  solidiv  constructed  edifices.  This  street  is  the 
Broadway  of  Montreal.  St.  Peter  St.  runs  to  the  S.  E.  by  the  stately 
Caverhill  Buildings  (of  cut  limestone  in  Italian  Palazzo  architecture)  to 
St.  Paul  St-f  the  seat  of  an  extensive  wholesale  trade. 

0'  Ite  the  beautiful  Corinthian  colonnade  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal 
(beyo..^  St.  Francois  Xavier  St,  the  Wall  St.  of  Montreal)  the  P/ace 
d'Armes  is  seen.  This  square  was  so  named  because  it  was  the  parade- 
ground  of  Montgomery's  American  army  in  1775.  Here  is  the  lofty  front 
of  the  *ChiirclL  of  Notre  Dame,  one  of  the  largest  churches  on  the  conti- 
nent, with  seats  for  8,000  persons  on  the  floor  and  2,000  in  the  galleries.  It 
is  2d5i  ft.  long  and  144^  ft.  wide,  and  has  a  chancel  window  of  stained  glass 


312     Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


64  X  32  ft.  in  size.  The  interior  is  brilliantly  and  theatrically  decorated. 
There  are  two  towers  on  the  front,  each  220  ft.  high,  and,  like  the  church, 
in  the  simplest  form  of  medijeval  Gothic  architecture.  One  tower  has  a 
chime  of  bells,  and  in  the  other  hangs  "  Gros  Bourdon,"  the  largest  bell 
in  America,  weighing  nearly  16  tons.  The  tower  is  generally  open  (fee  of 
25  c.  to  the  door-keeper),  and  affbrda  from  its  summit  a  noble  *  view  of 
the  city  and  its  environs  (especially  of  the  city  and  river,  the  Victoria 
Bridge,  and  the  islands).  The  suburbs  of  Laprairie,  Longueuil,  and  St. 
Lambert,  the  .Lachine  Rapids,  and  the  blue  mountains  of  Vermont,  are 
seen  from  this  point.  Alongside  the  church  is  the  ancient  Seminary  of 
St.  Sulpice^  on  the  site  of  the  Seminary  of  1657,  as  the  church  is  near  the 
site  of  the  Notre  Dame  of  1671.  The  present  church  was  built  in  1824-9, 
and  was  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  of  Telmesse  tn  partibus.  The  semi- 
nary consists  of  low  and  massive  buildings,  surrounded  with  gardens  and 
court-yards  of  spotless  neatness.  It  has  24  priests  connected  with  its 
various  works. 

"  I  soon  found  my  way  to  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame.    I  saw  that  it  was  of  great 

size  and  signiQed  something Coming  from  the  hurrahing  mob  and  t  k-  rattling 

carriages,  we  pushed  back  the  listed  door  of  this  church,  and  found  oiirFelves  in- 
stantly in  an  atmosphere  which  might  be  sacred  to  thought  and  religion,  if  one  had 

any It-  was  a  great  cave  in  the  midst  of  a  city  ;  and  what  were  the  altars  and 

the  tinsel  but  the  sparkling  stalactics,  into  which  you  entered  in  a  moment,  and 
where  the  still  atmosphere  and  the  sombre  light  disposed  to  serious  and  profitable 
thought  ?  Such  a  cave  at  hand,  which  you  can  enter  any  day,  is  worth  a  thousand 
of  our  churches  which  are  open  only  Sundays."   (Tuoreac.) 

Fronting  on  the  Place  d'Armes  are  the  elegant  Ontario  Bank  and  the 
hall  of  the  Grand  Lodge  of  the  Mfipons  of  Canada.  A  short  distance  to  the 
E.,  on  Notre  Dame  St.,  an  archwny  oi  the  r.  adniits  one  to  the  extensive 
and  secluded  Convent  of  the  Black  Nuns  (founded  in  1657).  Farther  on, 
t'.e  *  Court  House  is  seen  on  the  1.,  —  a  stately  stone  building  in  Ionic 
m  I  'lecture  (300  X  125  ft.),  back  of  which  is  the  Champ  de  Mars,  or 
raiade  Ground,  an  open  space  covering  28,800  square  yards,  and  ample 
enough  for  the  display'  of  3,000  troops.  The  great  structure  fronting  across 
Craig  St.  was  built  for  the  Dominion  Military  School,  which  is  now  estab- 
lished at  Kingston.  The  costly  and  splendid  new  City  Hall  is  on  the  E. 
side  of  the  Champ  de  Mars.  Just  beyond  the  Court  House  the  Jacques 
Cartier  Square  opens  off  Notre  Dame  St.,  and  is  encumbered  with  a  dilapi- 
dated monument  to  Nelson  (erected  in  1808),  and  two  Russian  guns  from 
Sebastopol.  Near  the  head  of  this  square,  in  the  ancient  French  Govern- 
ment building,  is  the  medical  school  of  Laval  University.  The  building 
dates  from  1704,  and  was  the  headquarters  of  the  American  generals  in 
1775-76,  and  of  the  British  governors  until  Montreal  was  decapitalized. 

By  the  next  side-street  (St.  Claude)  to  the  r.,  the  * Bonsecours  Mar- 
ket may  be  visited.  This  market  is  unrivalled  in  America,  and  is  built 
of  stone,  in  quasi-Doric  architecture,  at  a  cost  of  $300,000.  It  is  three 
stories  high,  has  a  lofty  dome,  and  presents  an  imposing  front  to  the  river. 


II 


MONTREAL. 


RouU76,     313 


1 


The  cunous  French  costumes  and  language  of  the  country  people  who 
congregate  here  on  market-days,  as  well  as  some  peculiarities  of  the  wares 
offered  for  sale,  render  a  visit  very  interesting.  Alongside  of  the  market 
is  the  Bonsecuurs  Church  (accommodating  2,000  persons),  which  was  built 
in  1658.  A  short  distance  beyond  is  the  Quebec  railway  station,  on  the 
site  of  the  extensive  Quebec-Gate  Barracks ;  and  the  Victoria  Pier  makes 
out  into  the  stream  towards  St.  Ilehn's  hie,  formerly  a  fortified  depot  of 
ammunition  and  war  materiel,  which  was  named  by  Champlain  in  honor  of 
his  wile.  Tlie  Isle  is  now  a  lovely  marine  park,  Avith  forts  and  barracks 
still  standing,  and  is  reached  by  a  ferry-steamer  from  Bm  occurs  Market. 
To  the  N.,  ou  Craig  St.,  is  the  attractive  Viger  Gard'  ith  a  small  con- 
servatory and  several  fountains,  fronting  on  whit  ' '!(y  Church 
(Episcopal),  built  of  Montreal  stone,  in  early  English  itrchitecture, 
and  accommodating  4,000  persons.  N.  of  Trinity,  and  mo  oa  fei.  Denis  St., 
is  St.  James  Church  (Catholic),  in  the  pointed  Gothic  style,  with  rich  stained 
glass.  Some  distance  E.  of  Dalhousie  Square,  on  St.  Mary  St.,  are  Mol- 
son's  College  (abandoned)  and  St.  Thomas  Church  (Episcopal),  with  the 
great  buildings  of  Molson's  brewery  and  the  Papineau  Market  and  Square 
(on  which  are  the  works  of  the  Canadian  Rubber  Co.  )•  The  suburb  of 
Hochelaga  (see  page  318)  is  about  1  M.  beyond  the  Papineau  Square. 

MoGill  St.  is  an  important  thoroughfare  leading  S.  from  Victoria 
Square  to  the  river.  Considerable  wholesale  trade  is  done  here  and  in 
the  intersecting  St.  Paul  St.  The  Dominion  and  Albert  Buildings  are 
rich  and  massive,  and  just  beyond  is  St.  Ann's  Market,  on  the  site  of 
the  old  Parliament  House.  In  1849  the  Earl  of  Elgin  signed  the  obnoxious 
Rebellion  Bill,  upon  which  he  was  attacked  by  a  mob,  who  also  drove  the 
Assembly  from  the  Parliament  House,  and  burnt  the  building.  On  ac- 
count of  these  riots,  Montreal  was  decapitalized  the  same  year.  Com- 
missioners' St.  leads  E.  by  St.  Ann's  Market  and  the  elegant  Cmtom- 
Huuse  to  the  broad  promenades  on  the  river-walls.  Ottawa  St.  leads  W. 
to  the  heavy  masonry  of  the  Lachine-Canal  Basins  and  the  vicinity  of  the 
Victoria  Bridge. 

Radegonde  St.  and  Beaver-Hall  Hill  run  N.  from  Victoria  Square,  passing 
Zion  Church,  where  the  Gavazzi  riots  took  place  in  1853.  The  armed 
congregation  repulsed  the  Catholic  assailants  twice,  and  then  the  troops 
restored  order,  40  men  having  been  killed  or  badly  wounded.  Just  above  is 
the  Baptist  Church,  overlooked  by  the  tall  Church  of  the  Messiah  (Unitari- 
an), with  St.  Andrew's  Presbyterian  Church  on  the  r.  A  few  steps  to  the 
r.,  Lagaucheti6re  St.  leads  to  St.  Patrick's  Churchy  a  stately  Gothic  build- 
ing 240  X  90  ft.,  accommodating  5,000  persons,  and  adorned  with  a  spire 
225  ft.  high.  The  nave  is  very  lofty,  and  the  narrow  lancet-windows  are 
filled  with  stained  glass.  Near  by,  on  Bleury  St.,  are  the  massive  stone 
buildings  of  St.  Mary's  College  (Jesuit;  9  professors)  and  the  ^Churoli 
of  the  Gesil.  The  nave  of  the  church  (76  ft.  high)  is  bounded  by  rioh 
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814     RwU76. 


MONTREAL. 


composite  columns;  and  the  transepts  are  144  ft.  long,  and  are  adoned 
with  fine  frescos  in  chiaroscuro.  <    >. 

Orer  the  High  Altar  la  the  Cmcifixioii,  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Spotlem  Lamb, 
above  which  is  the  Nativity.  Against  the  columna  at  the  crowing  of  the  nave  and 
tran»ept8.are  ntatues  of  St  Mark  with  a  lion,  St.  Matthew  with  an  ox,  St.  Luke  with 
a  child,  and  St.  John  with  an  eagle-  On  the  ceiling  of  the  nave  are  frescos  of  St. 
Thomas  Repentant,  the  Bleeding  Lamb,  and  the  Virgin  and  Child  amid  Angelio 
Choirs.  Medallions  along  the  nave  contain  portraits  of  eight  saints  of  the  Order  of 
Jesus.  Over  the  Altar  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  1.  transept,  is  a  fresco  of  the  Trinity, 
near  which  is  a  painting  of  St.  Aloysius  Oonzaga  receiving  his  first  communion  from 
Bt.  Charles  Borromeo,  Cardinal  Archbishop  of  Milan.  To  the  r.  is  a  fresco  of  St. 
Ignatius  Loyola  in  the  Grotto  of  Manresa,  and  on  the  1.  is  Christ's  Appearance  to 
nun  near  Rome,  while  above  is  Christ  blessing  Little  Children.  Over  St.  Joseph's 
Altar,  in  the  r.  transept,  is  a  painting  of  the  Eternal  Father ;  on  the  r.  of  which  is 
another  picture,  St.  Stanislaus  Kostka  receiving  Communion  fh>m  Angels.  On  the 
L  is  a  fresco  of  the  Martyrdom  nf  the  Jesuits  at  Nagasaki  (Japan) ;  on  the  r.  is  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  Bobola,  in  Poland ;  and  above  is  the  Busing  of  Laxarus. 
On  the  ceiling  is  the  Holy  Family  at  Work. 

Turning  now  to  the  W.  on  St.  Catherine  St.,  one  soou  reaches  *C]iriit 
Charoh  Cathedral,  the  best  representative  of  English  Gothic  architecture 
in  America.  It  is  built  of  Montreal  and  Caen  stone,  and  is  212  ft.  long, 
and  100  ft.  yide  at  the  transepts.  A  stately  stone  spire  springs  from  the 
intersection  of  the  nave  and  transepts,  and  attains  a  height  of  224  ft.  The 
choir  is  46  ft.  long,  is  paved  with  encaustic  tiles,  and  contains  a  fine 
atained-glass  window.  On  either  side  are  elaborately  carved  stalls  for 
the  clergy;  and  the  pointed  roof  of  the  nave  (67  ft.  high)  is  sustained  by 
columns  of  Caen  stone  whose  capitals  are  carved  to  represent  Canadian 
plants.  In  front  of  the  cathedral  is  a  monument  to  Bishop  Fulford,  and 
on  the  N.  is  a  quaint  octagonal  chapter>house,  where  the  diocesan  library 
is  kept.  The  residence  of  the  Lord  Bishop  (and  Metropolitan  of  Canada) 
is  near  this  building.  One  square  K.  of  the  cathedral  (corner  of  Cathcart 
and  University  Sts.)  is  the  large  and  interesling  Natural-History  Museum^ 
which  is  open  to  the  public  (fee,  25  c).  The  Ferrier  Collection  of  Egyptian 
Antiquities  and  the  cases  of  Canadian  birds  are  of  much  interest.  Farther 
out,  back  of  the  Hotel  Dieu,  is  the  Crystal  Palace. 

McGill  University  (500  students)  is  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Royal,  in  beau- 
tiful grounds.  It  was  endowed  in  1813  and  opened  in  1821,  and  has  fac- 
ulties of  Arts  (9  professors).  Medicine  (10  professors),  and  Law  (8  profes- 
sors). The  Medical  School  is  N.  of  the  main  building,  and  the  Museum 
is  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  University  is  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  J.  W. 
Dawson  (see  pape  138),  and  is  the  most  flourishing  institution  of  the  kmd 
in  Canada.  Affiliated  with  it  are  the  contiguous  Presbyterian  and  Wes- 
leyan  theological  colleges,  and  the  Congregational  and  Anglican  Diocesan 
colleges.  The  reservoir  for  the  water-supply  of  Montreal  is  back  of  the 
University,  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  has  a  capacity  of  36,500,000  gallons. 
The  water  is  taken  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  1^  M.  above  the  Lachine 
Eapids.  A  pleasant  view  of  the  city  may  be  obtained  from  this  terrace, 
and  on  the  W.  is  Bavetucrag,  the  mansion  of  the  late  Sir  Hugh  Allan. 


4\ 


MONTREAL. 


ItoiUe  76.      315 


■-I 


The  *  Oreat  Seminary  of  St.  Sniplce  and  the  Montreal  CoUege  are  | 
M.  S.  W.  of  the  Uniyersity,  and  front  on  the  same  street  (Sherbrooke). 
They  occupy  a  portion  of  the  brofivl  ecclesiastical  domain  which  is  known 
as  the  Priests'  Farm.  The  incongruoas  towers  in  front  of  the  main  build- 
ing pertained  to  the  ancient  college  of  the  17th  century,  and  were  at  that 
time  loopholed  and  held  as  a  part  of  the  defences  of  the  town  against  the 
Iroquois  Indians.  The  Seminary  is  for  the  education  of  Roman  Catholio 
priests,  and  has  4  professors  and  112  students.  The  Montreal  College  is 
for  the  education  of  Canadian  youth,  and  has  10  ecclesiastics  for  profes- 
sors and  260  students.  It  was  founded  in  1773  by  the  Sulpicians,  wlio  still 
remain  in  charge.  The  Seminary  chapel  is  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  the  gar- 
dens about  the  buildings  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in  Canada.  Sherbrooke 
St.  and  the  environs  of  Mount  Royal  contain  many  elegant  residences. 

Dorchester  St.  runs  S.  W.  from  Beaver-Hall  Square,  soon  crossing  Uni- 
yersity St.,  on  whose  r.  comers  are  the  High  School  and  the  St.  James 
Club.  This  street  leads,  on  the  1.,  to  the  Normal  and  Model  Schools;  and 
on  the  r.  to  the  Natural-History  Museum  and  the  Cathedral.  Dorchester 
St.  passes  on  by  St.  PauPs  Church  (1.  side)  and  the  Knox  Church  (r.side) 
to  Dominion  Square,  which  occupies  the  site  of  a  cemetery.  In  this 
vicinity  are  several  fine  churches, —the  Wesleyan  Methodist,  a  graceful 
building  in  the  English  Gothic  style;  the  American  Presbyterian,  an  ex- 
act copy  of  the  Park  Church  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. ;  and  St.  George's  Church 
(Episcopal),  an  elegant  edifice  in  decorated  Gothic  architecture,  with  deep 
transepts,  costly  stained  windows,  a  timber  roof,  and  fine  school-buildings 
attached. 

The  new  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  h  being  erected  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Dorchester  and  Cemetery  Sts.  It  is  800  ft.  long  and  225  ft.  wide  at  the  tran- 
septs ;  and  is  to  be  surmounted  by  a  stone  dome  250  ft.  high,  supported  on  4  piers 
(each  of  which  are  33  ft.  thick)  and  82  Corinthian  columns.  4  minor  domes  are  to 
surround  this  noble  piece  of  architecture.  The  portico  is  to  ro.*<emble  that  of  the 
Boman  St.  Peter's,  surmounted  also  by  colossal  statues  of  the  A|..v>8tles;  and  gives 
entrance  to  the  vestibule,  which  is  200  ft  long  and  30  ft.  wide.  The  interior  colon- 
nades support  lines  of  round  arches ;  and  there  are  20  minor  chapels.  The  exterior 
walls  are  very  massive,  but  extremely  plain  and  rough.  This  building  is  to  supplj 
the  place  of  the  Cathedral  on  St.  Denis  St.,  which  was  burned  in  1852.  The  design 
was  conceived  by  Bishop  Bourget,  who  secured  the  land,  and  after  inspecting  numer- 
ous plans  in  different  styles,  determined  to  erect  a  cathedral  like  St.  Peter's  (though 
■mailer).  The  architects  went  to  Rome  and  studied  the  Vatican  Bariiica  careftilly, 
and  the  work  was  soon  begun.  At  present  strenuous  exertions  are  being  made  by 
the  clergy,  monks,  and  nuns  to  procure  the  needful  funds  to  finish  the  building. 


The  Bishop's  Palace  is  on  the  E.  of  Dominion  Square;  and  Cemetery  St. 
runs  thence  to  St.  Joseph's  Church  and  the  Bonaventure  station  of  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Beyond  this  point  is  the  populous  St.  Ann*i 
Wardj  toward  the  great  basins  of  the  Lachine  Canal. 

The  *  Oray  Nunnery  is  nearly  k  M.  S.  W.  of  Dominion  Square,  near 
Dorchester  St.,  and  occupies  an  immense  pile  of  stone  buildings.  This 
convent  {VHdpUal  GMral  de$  8mtr$  Griset)  was  founded  in  1747i  and 


316     Route  75. 


MONTREAL. 


i  i 


contains  202  nans,  116  on  mission,  42  novices  and  postulants,  and  over  600 
patients.  It  takes  care  of  aged  and  inArm  men  and  women,  orphans  and 
foundlings,  and  lias  large  revenues  from  landed  estates.  Over  600  found- 
lings are  received  every  year,  of  whom  more  than  seven  eighths  die,  and 
the  remainder  are  kept  in  the  convent  until  they  reach  the  age  of  12  years. 
Opposite  the  nunnery  is  Mont  8te.  Marie^  a  large  huilding  which  was 
erected  for  a  Baptist  college,  but  has  become  a  ladies*  boarding-school 
(160  students)  under  the  Congregational  Nuns  of  the  Black  Nunnery,  who 
have,  in  the  city,  67  schools  and  12,000  pupils.  This  order  was  founded 
by  Marguerite  Bourgoys  in  1669. 

The  Nazareth  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  N.  of  the  Gesti,  on  St.  Cath- 
erine St.,  and  has  also  an  infant  school  with  over  400  pupils.  The  chapel 
is  built  in  a  light  and  delicate  form  of  Romanesque  architecture,  and  is 
richly  decorated  and  frescoed.  On  the  same  square  are  the  handsome 
stone  buildings  of  the  Catholic  Commercial  Academy.  To  the  E.  (on 
Dorchester  St.)  is  the  General  Hospital^  with  160  beds;  the  Hospice  of  St. 
Vincent  de  Paul  (30  brethren)  and  the  Aaile  de  la  Providence  (122  nuns) 
are  near  Labelle  St. ;  and  numerous  other  convents  and  asylums  are  found 
throughout  this.singular  city,  which  is  both  British  and  French,  commer- 
cial and  monastic,  progressive  and  mediaeval,  —  combining  American  en- 
terprise with  English  solidity  and  French  ecclesiasticism. 

The  *  ndtel  Dieu  de  Ville  Marie  is  about  1  M.  N.  W.  of  Great  St.  James 
St.,  and  is  one  of  the  largest  buildings  in  Canada.  The  chapel  is  a  spa- 
cious hall  over  which  is  a  dome  160  ft.  high,  frescoed  with  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  Holy  Family.  This  institution  was  founded  in  1869,  and  is  con- 
ducted by  about  80  cloistered  nuns  of  the  Order  of  St.  Joseph.  There  are 
generally  about  600  persons  in  the  building,  consisting  of  the  nuns  and 
tlieir  charges,  old  and  infirm  men  and  women,  orphans,  and  about  200  sick 
people.  To  the  N.  is  the  populous  French  suburb  of  8t.  Jean  Baptiste 
(6,000  inhabitants),  which  is  connected  with  the  cit  >-  horse-cars  on  St. 
Lawrence  Main  St. 

*HoTmt  Royal  Fark,  a  Jong  wooded  ridge  750  it.  high,  covers  430 
acres,  and  was  bought  by  the  cit.v  in  1874,  and  laid  out  by  F.  L.  Olmstead. 
Stages  run  through  it  every  half-hoiir,  starting  from  the  Montreal  Post- 
Office,  and  passing  the  Windsor  (ticket  up  and  back,  23  c. ;  restaurant  on 
summit).  A  superb  view  is  afforded,  including  the  city  and  scores  of  vil- 
lages, the  distant  Adirondacks  and  Green  Mts.,  Rougemont  and  Beloeil, 
and  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  and  their  lakes. 

Point  St.  Charlei  is  beyond  tlie  Lachine-Canal  Bt>jms,  and  is  traversed 
by  the  tracks  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Near  the  Victoria  Bridge  is 
a  great  bowlder,  surrounded  by  a  railing,  commemorating  the  place  where 
were  buried  6,500  Irish  immigrants,  who  died  here  of  ship-fever  in  the 
summer  of  1847.  The  *  Viotoria  Bridge  is  the  longest  and  most  costly 
bridge  in  Canada.    It  consists  of  23  spans  of  242  ft.  each  (the  central  one 


;- 


MONTREAL. 


Rouurs.     317 


ersed 
Ige  is 
where 
n  the 
costly 
,1  one 


■i 


880  ft.)i  resting  on  24  piers  of  blue  limestone  masonry,  cemented  and  iron- 
riveted,  with  sharp  wedge  faces  to  the  down-current.  The  tubes  contain- 
ing the  track  are  19  X  16  ft.  and  the  bridge  is  approached  by  abutments 
2,600  ft.  long  and  90  ft.  wide,  which,  with  the  6,594  ft.  of  iron  tubing, 
makes  a  total  length  of  9,194  ft.  from  grade  to  grade  and  over  1|  M.  from 
shore  to  shore.  The  bridge  was  commenced  in  1854,  and  finished  in  1869; . 
it  contains  250,000  tons  of  stone  and  8,000  tons  of  iron,  and  cost  $  6,800,000.  , 
There  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city  from  the  central  tube. 

In  the  early  autumn  of  1635  Jaques  Cartier  heard,  from  the  ladians  of  Quebec, 
of  a  greater  town  &r  up  the  river.  The  fearless  Breton  chief  took  2  boats  and  50 
men,  and  ascended  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Iroquois  town  of  Hochelaga,  occupying 
the  present  site  of  the  metropolis  of  Canada.    "  Before  them,  wrapped  in  forests 

tainted  by  the  early  frosts,  rose  the  ridgy  back  of  the  Mountain  of  Montreal,  and 
elow,  encompassed  with  its  cornfields,  lay  the  Indian  town,"  surrounded  with  triple . 
palisades  arranged  for  defence.  The  French  were  admitted  within  the  walls  and 
rested  on  the  great  public  square,  where  the  women  surrounded  them  in  curiosity, 
and  the  sick  and  maimed  were  brought  to  them  to  be  healed,  "  as  if  a  god  had  come 
down  among  them."  The  warriors  sat  in  gi-ave  silence  while  he  read  aloud  the 
Passion  of  our  Saviour  (though  they  understood  not  a  word) ;  then  presents  were 
given  to  all  the  people,  and  the  French  trumpeters  sounded  a  warlike  melody.  The 
Indians  then  guided  their  guests  to  the  summit  of  the  aii^ent  mountain,  whence 
scores  of  leagues  of  unbroken  forest  were  overlooked.  Cartier  gave  to  this  &ir  emi- 
nence the  name  of  Mont  Royal,  whence  is  derived  the  present  name  of  the  city. 

In  1603  thid  point  was  visited  by  the  noble  Champlain,  but  Hochelaga  had  disap- 
peared, and  only  a  few  wandering  Algouquins  could  be  seen  in  the  country.    The' 
Iroquois  of  the  great  town  had  been  driven  to  the  S.  by  the  powerftil  Algonquint  - 
(such  is  the  Mohawk  tradition). 

At  a  later  day  a  tax-gatherer  of  Anjou  and  a  priest  of  Paris  heard  celes^tial  voices, 
bidding  them  to  found  a  hospital  (Hdtel  Dieu)  and  a  college  of  priests  at  Mont 
Royal,  and  the  voices  were  'followed  by  apparitions  of  the  Virgin  and  the  Saviour- 
Filled  with  sacred  zeal,  and  brought  t<^ther  by  a  singular  accident,  tne.se  men  won 
several  nobles  of  France  to  aid  their  cause,  then  bought  the  Isle  of  Mont  Royal, 
and  formed  the  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Montreal.  With  the  Lord  of  Maisonneuve 
and  45  associates,  in  a  solemn  service  held  in  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  de  Paris, 
they  consecrated  the  island  to  the  Holy  Family  under  the  name  of  "  Yille  Marie  de 
Montreal "  (Feb.,  1641).  May  18, 1642,  Maisonneuve  and  bis  people  landed  at  Mon- 
treal and  raised  an  altar,  before  which,  when  high  mass  was  concluded,  the  priest 
said,  "  You  are  a  grain  of  mustard-seed  that  shall  arise  and  grow  until  its  branches 
overshadow  the  land.  You  are  few.  but  your  work  is  the  work  of  God.  His  smile 
is  on  you,  and  your  children  shall  fill  the  land."  The  Hdtel  Dieu  was  founded 
in  1617,  and  in  1657  the  Sulpicians  of  Paris  established  a  seminary  here.  In  1689, 
1,400  Iroquois  Indians  stormed  the  western  suburbs,  and  killed  200  of  the  in- 
habitants, and  a  short  time  afterwards  Col.  Schuyler  destroyed  Montreal  with  troops 
fh>m  New  York,  leaving  only  the  citadel,  which  his  utmost  efforts  could  not  reduce. 
In  1760  Lord  Amherst  and  17,000  men  captured  the  city,  which  then  had  4,000  in- 
habitants, and  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  with  11  redoubts  and  a  citadel.  In  1776 
Ethan  Allen  attacked  Montreal  with  a  handful  of  Vermonters,  and  was  defeated  and 
captured,  with  100  of  his  men.  Oen.  Prescott  sent  them  to  EJngland  as  "  banditti," 
and  Allen  was  imprisoned  in  Pendennis  Castle.  In  the  fall  of  1776  the  city  was 
taken  by  the  American  army  under  Qen.  Montgomery.  With  the  close  of  the  War 
of  1812,  a  brisk  commerce  set  in,  and  the  city  grew  rapidly,  having,  in  1821, 18,767 
inhabitants.    The  completion  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  greatly  benefited  this 

J  lace,  and  its  increase  has  for  many  years  been  steady,  substantial,  and  rapid.  In 
832  the  cholera  destroyed  1,843  persons,  out  of  a  population  of  80,000 ;  and  in  1852 
a  large  part  of  the  city  was  burned.  80  years  ago  vessels  of  over  800  tons  could  not 
reach  Montreal,  but  a  ship-channel  has  been  cleared  bv  the  exertions  of  the  mer- 
chants (headed  bv  Sir  Hugh  Allan),  and  now  the  city  u  visited  regularly  by 
steamships  of  4,000  tons,  and  by  the  largest  vessels  of  the  merchant-niarine. 


318      RouUre.       "AROUND  THE  MOUNTAIN.' 


76.  The  Environs  of  Montreal. 

Montreal  is  sitnated  on  the  S.  E.  side  of  tlie  island  of  Montreal,  which 
is  28  M.  long,  10  M.  wide,  and  70  M.  aronnd.  It  is  divided  into  10  par- 
ishes, and  is  composed  of  fertile  and  arable  soil,  supporting  a  dense  pop- 
ulation. The  favorite  drive  is  that  *  ''Around  the  Mountain,"  a  distance 
of  9  M.  The  road  passes  out  by  the  Hotel  Dieu  and  through  the  suburb 
of  St.  Jean  Baptiste  (whence  a  road  runs  E.  to  the  limestone-quarries  at 
Cote  St.  Michel).  At  Mile-End  the  carriage  turns  to  the  1.  and  soon  passes 
the  avenue  which  leads  (to  the  l.)to  the  Mount  Royal  Cemetery.  The 
road  ascends  to  higher  grades,  and  beautiful  views  open  on  the  N.  and  W., 
including  13  villages,  the  distant  shores  of  the  Isle  of  Jesus,  and  the  brigfit 
waters  of  Lake  St.  Louis  and  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains.  On  a  clear 
day  the  spires  of  the  Catholic  College  of  St.  Tkirese  are  seen,  several 
leagues  to  the  N.,  beyond  the  Riviere  auz  Chiens.  The  village  of  C6ti 
dea  Neiges  (three  inns)  has  an  antique  church,  and  is  occupied  by  1,200 
inhabitants.  It  was  first  settled  by  families  from  Cdtd  des  Neiges  in 
France,  which  derived  its  name  from  a  legend  that  a  miraculous  cruci- 
form fall  of  snow  took  place  there  in  August,  marking  the  place  on  which 
a  pious  citizen  afterwards  built  the  Church  of  Notre  Dame  des  Neiges. 
From  this  village  the  inter-mountain  road  leads  £.  to  Montreal.  On  the 
lower  slope  of  Mount  Royal  a  platform  has  been  built  on  the  wall  of  the 
Seminary  grounds,  from  which  a  beautiful  ♦view  is  obtained.  (The  usual 
charges  for  the  ride  around  the  mountain  are  $  1.50  for  2  -  8  persons,  in  a 
cab,  or  $  2  for  4  persons ;  for  a  two-horse  carriage,  $  4,  for  1  -  4  persons.) 

A  road  turns  to  the  r.  from  Cote  des  Neiges  and  passes  around  the  bold 
highlands  S.  of  Mount  Royal,  through  fair  rural  scenery.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  of  C6t^  St.  Luc  it  reaches  Cote  St.  Antoine^  the  seat  of  the  fine 
building  and  grounds  formerly  known  as  Monklands,  when  the  home  of 
Governor-General  Lord  Elgin.  It  is  now  called  Villa  Maria,  and  is  occu- 
pied by  the  black  nuns  as  a  boarding-school.  There  are  26  sisters  and 
172  pupils,  most  of  whom  are  from  the  United  States.  Opposite  Villa 
Maria  is  the  Church  of  St.  Luc.  The  short  road  from  this  point  to  the 
city  is  made  mteresting  by  beautiful  views  and  fair  villas,  and  for  i  M. 
after  passing  the  toll-gate  it  skirts  the  Seminary  grounds. 

The  Sanlt  an  Becollet  is  7  M.  W.  of  Montreal,  on  the  Riviere  des 
Prairies,  and  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of  its  picturesque  rapids. 
Picnic  parties  occupy  the  forest-covered  PHeets'  Mand,  whence  the  de- 
scent of  rafts  may  be  observed.  The  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is 
beautifully  situated  amid  pleasant  grounds  near  the  river.  Opposite  Sault 
au  Recollet  is  the  Isle  Jeens,  which  is  nearly  26  M.  long,  and  contains 
the  villages  of  St.  Martm,  St.  Rose  de  Lima,  and  St.  Vincent  de  Paul  (near 
which  is  the  Provincial  Reformatory  Prison). 

Ho^^helaga  is  at  the  N.  £.  end  of  the  Montreal  horge-car  line,  and  is 


LACHINE  RAPIDS. 


JUnUe7e,      319 


re  des 
apids. 
hede- 
eart  is 
Sault 
ntains 
l(near 

and  is 


fhe  point  where  the  Northern-Colonization  and  North-Shore  Railways  are 
to  terminate.  It  has  a  good  harbor  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  below  the  Rapid 
of  St.  Mary.  There  are  several  fine  villas  here,  and  the  *  Convent  of  tht 
Bacred  Name  ofJeaua  and  Mary  is  the  most  extensive  monastic  institu- 
tion in  Canada.  Hochelaga  is  3  M.  from  the  Victoria  Bridge ;  and  8-4 
M.  farther  E-  is  Longue  Point,  near  which  the  late  Sir  George  E.  Cartier 
resided.  The  river-road  gives  views  of  Longueuil,  Boucherville,  and 
Varennes,  on  the  S.  shore. 

Laohine  (three  hotels)  is  9  M.  S.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  is  a  favorite 
summer-resort  of  the  citizens.  The  river-road  is  very  picturesque;  and 
the  upper  road  runs  through  the  manufacturing  town  called  Tannery 
Westf  which  has  over  4,000  inhabitants.  Visitors  usually  go  out  on  one 
road  and  return  by  the  other.  ■  Lachine  is  at  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Louis, 
and  is  noted  for  its  annual  regattas.  It  was  so  named  by  Champlain  in 
1613,  because  he  believed  that  beyond  the  rapids  the  river  led  to  China 
{La  Chine).  In  1689  the  Iroquois  Indians  destroyed  the  French  town  here, 
with  all  its  inhabitants,  200  of  whom  were  burnt  at  the  stake.  Opposite 
Lachine  is  the  populous  village  of  Caughnawaga,  inhabited  by  about  600 
of  the  orderly  and  indolent  descendants  of  the  Iroquois  Indians,  who  are 
governed  by  a  council  of  seven  chiefs. 

The  *  Laohine  Rapids  may  be  visited  by  taking  the  7  A.  m.  train  (at 
the  Bonaventure  station)  to  Lachine,  where  a  steamer  is  in  waiting,  by 
which  the  tourist  returns  through  the  rapids  to  Montreal.  After  taking  a 
pilot  from  Caughnawaga,  the  steamer  passes  out. 

"  Suddenly  s  scene  of  wild  grandeur  bursts  upon  the  eye.  Waves  are  lashed  into 
spray  and  into  breakers  of  a  thousand  forms  by  the  submerg^  rocks  which  they 
are  dashed  against  in  the  headlong  impetuosity  of  the  river.  Whirlpools,  a  storm- 
lashed  sea,  the  chasm  below  Niagara,  all  mingle  their  sublimity  in  a  single  rapid. 
Now  passing  with  lightning  speed  within  a  few  yards  of  rocks,  Tvhich,  did  your  ves- 
sel but  touch  them,  would  reduce  her  to  an  utter  wreck  before  the  crash  could 
sound  upon  the  ear ;  did  she  even  diverge  in  the  least  from  her  course,  —  if  her 
head  were  not  kept  straight  with  the  course  of  the  rapid,  —she  would  be  instantly 
submerged  and  rolled  over  and  over.  Before  us  is  au  absolute  precipice  of  waters ; 
on  every  side  of  it  breakers,  like  dense  avalanches,  are  thrown  high  into  the  idr. 
Ere  we  can  take  a  glance  at  the  scene,  the  boat  descends  the  wall  of  waves  and  foam 
like  a  bird,  and  in  a  second  afterwards  you  are  floating  on  the  calm,  unruffled  bosom 
of  '  below  the  rapids.' " 

The  steamer  then  passes  under  the  central  arch  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  (see  page 
816),  and  opens  animposiog  panoramic  *view  of  the  city.  (Tickets  for  the  round- 
trip  cost  50  c. ;  and  the  tourist  gets  back  to  Montreal  about  9.30  a.  u) 

The  Beloeil  MountaiiL  may  be  visited  in  a  day  by  taking  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  to  St.  Hilaire,  whence  the  mountain  is  easily  ascended, ' 
passing  a  pretty  little  lake.  On  this  peak  (1,400  ft.  above  the  St.  Law- 
rence) the  Bishop  of  Nancy  erected  an  oratory  surmounted  by  a  huge  tin- 
covered  cross  whtch,\Ba9»^isiblefor^ox.€tf* J8i>  1^1^ , The  cross  was  blown  down, 
several  years  ago.  •  ■tlie^*.yicw  ^(^m»B^loe31.  JnMjudes'a  jea^i^S  of  60  M.  over 
the  fertile  and  thickly  at;ttled''p1aln&'  o^  tlie  ^t.,  LtnA^t^cie  Ti^lley,  with  the 
blue. mountainf^o^  Vermont  feir  ajvay  y\  tlje  §4  K.  JJneBoftd^ervitte  Moun- 
tain i»  reached 'frpD;t.!$t^]^i|unoj  a  statkmv ox^;  the 0.rand  T'nink  Railway, 


320     HouU  76. 


OTTAWA. 


>%fi 


and  commands  fine  yiews.  There  are  10  lakes  on  this  ridge,  one  of  which, 
the  Manor  L<xke,  is  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  towers  of  Notre  Dame, 
in  MontreaL 

8t.  Anne  (du  Bout  de  title)  is  21  M.  S.  W.  of  Montreal,  and  may  be 
reached  in  an  hour  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Bailway.  It  is  a  village  of  1,000 
inhabitants,  with  two  inns,  and  has  an  ancient  church  which  is  much 
revered  by  the  Canadian  boatmen  and  voyageun.  Man}'  of  the  people  of 
Montreal  visit  this  place  during  the  summer.  The  village  is  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  railway,  between  Lake  St.  Louis  (of  the  St.  Lawrence)  and 
the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains  (of  the  Ottawa  Biver).  The  Ottawa  is 
here  crossed  by  a  fine  railway-bridge,  resting  on  16  stone  piers;  and  the 
famous  Rapids  of  St.  Anne  are  flanked  by  a  canal.  Here  Tom  Moore 
wrote  his  Canadian  Boat-Song,  beginning:  — 

"  Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 
Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time. 
Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim 
We'll  sing  at  St.  Anne's  our  parting  hymn. 
Bow/brothers,  row ;  the  stream  run3  fkst, 
The  Rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight 's  put. 

{      **  Uttawa's  tide !  this  trembling  moon 

Shall  see  us  float  o'er  thy  surges  soon. 

Saint  of  this  green  isle !  hear  our  prayers ; 

O,  grant  us  cnol  heavens  and  &vonng  airs ! 
Blow,  breezes,  blow ;  the  stream  runs  fiist. 
The  Rapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight 's  past." 

Steamers  run  daily  up  the  Ottawa  River  to  Ottawa  (Rttssell  Hotel),  the  capital 
Of  Canada.  The  Canadian  **Parll&meiit  House  is  situated  on  a  lofty  bluff 
over  the  Ottawa  River,  and  is  the  finest  specimen  of  Italian  Gothic  architecture  in 
America  or  the  world.  The  great  *  Victoria  Tower  in  the  centre  of  the  fiiqade  is  im- 
posing in  its  proportions ;  and  the  polygonal  structure  of  the  Dominion  Library  is  in 
the  rear  of  the  buildings.  The  halls  of  the  Senate  and  Chamber  of  Commons  are 
worthy  of  a  visit,  and  are  adorned  with  stained-glass  windows  and  marble  columns. 
In  the  Senate  is  a  utatue  of  Queen  Victoria,  and  near  the  vice-regal  throne  are  busts 
of  the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Wales.  The  departmental  buildings  which  flank  the 
I^liament  House  are  stately  structures,  in  hamionious  architecture,  and  of  the 
same  kinds  of  stone.  The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  and  the  nunneries  of  the  lower 
town  are  interesting ;  also  the  new  churches  of  the  middle  town  (which,  like  the 
rest  of  the  city,  is  still  undergoing  a  formative  process).  The  **Cltaiidi%Te 
Fallg  are  just  above  the  city,  where  the  broad  Ottawa  River  plunges  down  over 
long  and  ragged  ledges.  In  this  vicinity  are  immense  lumberyards,  with  the  con- 
nected industries  which  support  the  French  Canadians,  who  form  the  majority  of 
the  citisens  here.  S.  of  the  rity  are  the  pretty  Rideau  Falis.  Steamers  depart  fre- 
quently for  Montreal,  and  for  the  remote  forests  of  the  N. 


The  river  and  city  of  Ottawa  are  fully  described  in  the  companion  to 
this  hand-book,  Osgood's  Middle  States  ("with  the  Northern  Frontier 
from  Niagara  Falls  to  Montreal ;  also,  Baltimore,  Washington,  and  North- 
em  Virginia").  It  also  includes  descriptions  of  the  Upper  St.  Lawrence 
and  Lake  Oi)t;ijip,  Lat^  C^amplain  Aiid^I^ke^Geofge^a^dthe  routes  from 
New  York  to  Mo^ti5Bi|l.  'f   -  ^  ;  -  *    ^,   ',    :]     ]  l-    )  1  '' '  • 

Osgood's  Nicw  En^tMid^*mi6\fii  &ls'o'de!$crt(}tio'h's  bf  'Northern  Vermont 
and  New  Hampshire.  And «the«  routes  between^' BostuD..''a»d  Montreal  or 
Vtuaoec.       •         »  *     * ',         .    .  r   ,  >    ,  ^  c  •  •• .  •  j    i 


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DC  witT  «e   fWO 


LONGITUDE     CAtT    17    FR 


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WITH     NEWFOUNDLA.ND    a    LABRADOR. 

PVrBLISHED  TOACCO^fPAmr 

The  Maritime  Provinces :  a  Handbook  for  Trmellers" 
JAMES  R.OSGOOD  &  C»  BOSTON  M4SS. 


44. 


Prepared  by(iWXCtt('Qliffli&CVl7L»WUliiimS!N(wYoi-k. 


LONCITUDC     EAST    17    FROM    W/ISHINCTON 


21 


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* 


INDEX. 


AlMttls,  P.  Q.  292. 
Advocate  Harbor  103,  80. 
Agulqaac  BlTer  64. 
Arnilie  aien  167, 169. 
Albert  Bridge,  0.  B.  164. 
Albert  Minefl,  N.  B.  72. 
Alberton,  P.  E.  1. 179. 
Albion  Mines,  N.  S.  186. 
Aldouin  River,  60. 
Alemek  Bay,  N.  B.  63. 
Alexander  Point  63. 
Alexis  River  226 
Allagash  River,  Me.  68. 
Allandale,  N.  B.  62. 
Alriglit  Id.  184. 
Aleton  Point,  N.  B.  66. 
Amherst,  N.  S.  78,  74. 
Amherst  Id.  183. 
Ancienne  Lorette  281, 279. 
Andover,  N.  B.  64.  ■ 
Ange  Oardien,  P.  Q.  283. 
Annandale,  P.  E.  I.  182. 
Annapolis  Basin,  N.  S.  84. 
Annapolis  Royal  85. 
Annapolis  Valley  88. 
Anticosti  234. 
Antigonish,  N.  S.  138. 
Apohaqui,  N.  B.  71,  48. 
Apple  River,  N.  S.  80. 
Apsey  Gove,  N.  F.  210. 
Aquafort,  N.  F.  198. 
ArdoiseMt.,N.S.  93. 
Argentenay,  P.  Q.  290. 
Argyle.N.S.  116,126. 
Aricbat,  G.  B.  145. 
Arisaig,  N.  S.  189. 
Aroostook  Valley,  Me.  66. 
Arthurette,  N.  B.  54. 
Aspotogon  Mt.,  N.  S.  127. 
Aspy  Bay,  C.  B.  160. 
Athol,  N.  B.  80. 
Atlantic  Gove,  0.  B.  160. 
Aulac,  N.  B.  74. 
Avalon,  N.  F.  198, 209. 
Avonport,  N.  S.91. 
Aylesford,  N.  S.  89. 
Aylesford  Lt^es  90. 

BaocaUeu  Id.,  N.F.  201,206. 
14» 


Bacearo  Point,  N.  8. 123. 
Baddeck,  C.  B.  162. 
Baddeck  River.  167. 
Bagotville,  P.  Q.  802. 
Bale  des  Rochers,  P.  Q.  296. 
Bale  St.  Paul,  P.  Q.  292. 
Bale  Verte,  N  S.  74. 
Ballard  Bank,  The  199. 
Ballyhaly  Bofc.  N.  F.  196. 
Bangor,  Me.  W. 
Barachois,  N.  B.  69. 
Baieneed,  N.  F.  207. 
Barnaby  Id.,  P.  Q.  260. 
Barra,  Strait  of  164. 
Barr'dId8.,N.  F.210. 
Barrow,  N.  F.  214. 
Barrow  Harbor  203. 
Barton,  N.  S.  112. 
Basin  of  Minos  101, 106. 
Basque  Harbor  183. 
Basque  Island  251. 
Bass  River  81. 
Bathurst,  N.  B.  66,  61. 
Batiscan,  P.  Q.  307. 
Batteau  Harbor  226. 
Battery  Point,  N.  B.  68. 
Battle  Id..Lab.  224, 200, 206. 
Bay,  Argyle,  N.  S.  116. 

Belleisle,  N.  B.  42. 

Bonavista,  N.  F.  208. 

Bonne,  Lab.  219. 

Bradore,  Lab.  230. 

Bulls,  N.  F.  194, 197. 

Canada,  N.  F.  221. 

Cardigan,  P.  E.  1. 176. 

Conception ,  N .  F .  195, 206. 

De  Grave,  N.  F.  207. 

DuVin,N.B.  61. 

East,  G.  B.  147. 

Esquimaux,  Lab  230. 

Eternity,  P.  Q.  803. 

Fortune,  N.  F.  214. 

Oaria.  N.  F.  216. 

Ha  Ha,  P.  Q.  301. 

Hall's,  N.  F.  211. 

Hermitage,  N.  F.  215. 

Hillsborough  174, 175. 

Ingomachoix  219. 

Kemiel)ecaais  40l 


Bay,  Little,  N.  V.  215. 

Mahone,  N.  8. 118, 127. 

Miramichi,  N.  B.  6L 

Oak,  N.  B.  84. 

ofGbaleur64,240. 

of  Despair  216. 

of  Fair  and  Ptj8e208. 

ofFundy81,88. 

of  Islands  218. 

of  Notre  Dame,  N.  F.  210. 

ofSt.  John  219. 

Placentia,  N.  F.  212. 

Richmond,  P.  E.  1. 178. 

Roberts,  N.  F.  207. 

St.  Anne's,  G.  B.  168- 

St.  George's,  N.  F.  217. 

St.  John's,  P.  Q  304. 

St.  Margaret's  126, 118. 

St.  Mary's  112,  213. 

Sandwich,  Lab.  226. 

Trinity,  N.  P.  208, 201. 

Verd,  N.  F.  201, 208. 

White,  N.  F  221. 
Beach,  The  206. 
Bear  Gove  93 
Bear  Point  143. 
Bear  River  85. 
Beaubair's  Id.,  N.  B.  68. 
Beaulieu,  P.  Q  289. 
Beaumont,  P.  Q.  254. 
Beauport,  P.  Q.  276. 
Beaver  Bank,  N.  S.  98 
Beaver  Harbor,  G.  B.  162. 
Beaver  Harbor,  N.  B.  81. 
Beaver  Harbor.  N.  S.  182. 
Beaver  River  114. 
Becancour,  P.  Q.  897. 
Bedeque  Bay,  P.  £.  1. 174. 
Bedford  Basin,  N.  S  100. 
Bellechasse  Id.  264. 
Belledune,  N.  B.  66. 
Belle  Isle  220,  206. 
Belleisle  Bay,  N.  B.  42. 
BeU  Isle,  N.  F.  221. 
Belleorem,  N.  F.  214. 
Belliveau  Gove,  N.  S.  112. 
Belliveau  VUlage  73. 
Beloeil  Mt.,  P.  Q.  819. 
Benacadie  Point  166. 


322 


INDEX. 


Bcnmora  280. 

Barabnli  Birer  288. 
Bcrthlcr  en  toj  254. 
Berthtor  en  haut  808. 
Berwick.  N.  8. 90. 
Bk)  Id.,  P.  Q.  261. 
Big  Loran,  0.  B.  154. 
Big  Tancook  Id.  128. 
Biquette,  P.  Q.  251. 
Bireh  Pdnt  64. 
Birobtown.N.S.  121. 
Bird  Island  Gove  202. 
Bird  Isles  184. 
Bird  Rock  161. 
Black  Bay  228. 
Black  Brook  61. 
Blackhead  196. 
Blackhead  Cove  210. 
Black  Point,  N.  8. 122. 
Black  River,  N.  F.  212. 
Black  River,  P.  Q.  295. 
Blaoeherotte,  0.  B.  147. 
Blano  Sablon,  Lab.  229. 
Blandford,  If.  B.  27. 
BUnd  Lake,  N.  8. 126. 
Bliss  Id  ,  N.  B.  81. 
BUssvllle,  N.  B.  49. 
Blockhouse  Mines  158. 
BlomidoD,  Cape  102, 108. 
Bloody  Bay,  N.  F.  208. 
Bloody  Bridge  70- 
Bloody  Brook,  N.  S.  89. 
Blow«nie-Down  Head  207. 
Blue  Mt8.,N.S.  90,115. 
Blue  Pinion,  N.  F.  214. 
Blue  Rooks,  N.  S.  118. 
Boar's  Back,  N.  S.  82. 
Boar's  Head,  N.  B.  40. 
Boiestown,  N.  B.  47, 62. 
Boisdale  162. 
Bonami  Point  67. 
Bonaparte  Lake  86- 
Bonaventure  Id.  248. 
Bonavista  Bay,  N.  F.  208. 
Bonhomme,  Le  807. 
Bonne  Bay  219. 
Bonne  Bsperance  Bay  280. 
Bonny,  Lab.  280- 
Bon  Portage  Id.  124. 
Bonshaw,  P.  E.  1. 174. 
BotbweU,  P.  E  1. 182. 
Bouehervitle,  P.  Q.  809. 
Boularderie.  G.  B.  161. 
Bout  de  riPle  808. 
Bradford's  Cove  29. 
Bradore  Bay,  Lab.  280. 
Brae,  P.  E.  1. 179. 
Braha,  N.  F  221. 
Branch,  N.  F.  212. 
Brandies,  The  201 
Brandv  Poto  262, 296. 
Bras  d'Olr,  The  161. 
Breton,  Gape  149, 164. 
Bridgeport,  0.  B.  163. 


Bridgetown,  N.&  88. 
Bridgeton,  P.  B.  1. 182. 
Bridgewaterl28.119. 
Brigg's  Corner  49. 
Brighton,  N.  S.  112. 
Brigus,  N.  F.  207. 
Bristol,  N.  B.  61. 
BroadCove,N.  B.  29. 
Broad  Cove,  M.  F.  203. 
Broad  Cove,  N.  S.  120. 
Broad  Cove  Intervale  169. 
Brookfield,  N.  S.  82, 180. 
Brooklyn,  N.  S.  93. 
Brookvale,  N.  B.  ^. 
Broyle  Harbor  197. 
Brucker's  Hill  26. 
Brule  Harbor  81. 
Brunet  Id.  211 
Bryant's  Cove  207. 
Buctouche,  N.  B.  69. 
Bull  Arm,  N.  F.  209. 
Bull  Moose  Hill  41. 
Burgeo,  N.  F.  215. 
Burgoyne's  Ferry  5l> 
Burin,  N.F.  214,  212. 
Burlington,  N.  8  9a 
Burnt  Church  62, 68. 
Burnt  Head  207. 
Burnt  Ridge  202. 
Burton,  N.  B.  43. 
Burying  Place  211. 
Butter  Pots,  The  199. 

Cacouna,  P.  Q.  296, 252. 
Calais,  Me.  85. 
Caledonia  Comer  180. 
CalUire,  P.  Q.  295. 
Calvaire,  Miq.  185- 
Calvaire,  P.  Q  806. 
Cambridge,  N.  B.  42. 
Cambriol,  N.  F.  214. 
Campbell  River  55. 
Campbellton,  N.  B.  68. 
Camille,  Mt.  249. 
Campobello  Id.  25. 
Canaan  River  72. 
Canada  Bay  221. 
Canada  Creek  90. 
Canning,  N.  B.  48. 
Canning,  N.  S.  91. 
Canso  142. 
Canterbury  87, 62. 
Gap  k  I'Aigle  294. 

au'Corbeau  292. 

de  la  Magdelidne  807. 

de  Meule  184. 

Rouge  281. 

St.  Ignace  268. 
Cape  Alright  184. 

Anguille.N.  F.  217. 

Ballard,  N.  F.  218. 

Bauld,  N.  F.  220. 

Bear  176. 181. 

Blomidon,  91, 102, 108. 


Cape  Bluff,  Lab.  8BL 
Breton,  149, 164. 
Broyle,  N.  F.  197. 
Canso,  N.  S.  184, 142. 
Ghapeau  Rouge  214, 189. 
Chatte,  P.  Q.  249. 
Chigneeto,  N.  8. 104. 
Cove,  N.  S.  114. 
Cove,  P.  Q.  241. 
Colombier,  P.  Q.  288. 
CorneiUe,  294. 
Dauphin  158, 161. 
Desolation  226. 
Despair,  P.  Q.  241. 
Diable,  P.  Q.  262. 
d'Or,  N.  8. 108. 
East,  P.  Q.  801. 
Egmont,  P.  E.L  174,179. 
English,  N.  F.  218. 
Enrage,  N.  B.  72. 
Eternity.  P.  Q.  808. 
Fogo,  N.  F.  204, 210. 
Fourchu,  N.  8. 125. 
Freels,  N.  F.  208. 218. 
Oaspa,  P.  Q.  246. 
George,  P.  Q.  804. 
Goose  294. 
Grand  Bank  214. 
Gribaune  291. 
Jourimain  69,  78. 
Kildarel80. 
Labaie292. 
Lahave,  N.  S.  120. 
La  Ilune  216. 
Largent  202. 
Mabou,  C.  B.  168. 
Magdelnine  248. 
Maillard  292. 
Marangouin  78. 
Morien,  C.  B.  168. 
Negro,  N.  S.  122. 
Noniian,  N.  F.  220. 
North,  C.  B.  160. 
Perry,  C.  B.  168. 
Pine,  N.  F.  213. 
Porcupine,  N.  S.  144. 
Race,  N.  F  199, 189. 
Ray,  N.  F.  217,  216. 
Rhumore,  C.  B.  147. 
Ridge,  N.  F.  208. 
Roroway,  N.  S.  12L 
Rosier  247,  246. 
Rouge  291. 
Sable,  N.  S.  128. 
St.  Anne  249. 
St.  Francis  201, 225, 801. 
St.  George  218 
St.  Lawrence  160, 170. 
St.  Michael  226. 
St.  Nicholas  288. 
Sambroll8,98. 
Smoky,  G.  B.  169. 
Spear,  N.  F.  189,  ISH. 
Speneer  104, 88. 


INDEX. 


323 


180. 


4,179. 

I. 

08. 


i,80L 
ilTO. 

'19& 


0mm  Spli*.  N.  8. 104. 

Toonumte  287. 268. 

Toumwntine  69,  78, 174. 

Tntvene  174. 

Trinity,  P.  Q.  808. 

Tryon,  P.  E.  I  178. 

Tictoria.  P.  Q.  804. 

We8t8U8. 

WhitUe,  Lab.  280. 

Wolfe  179. 
Caplin  Cove  198. 
Caraquette  60,  62. 
Carbonear.N.F.  208. 
Cardigan,  N.  B.  60. 
Cardigan,  P.  £.  1. 181. 
Caribacon  146. 
Caribou  Id.  176, 224. 
Caribou  Plains  80. 
Caribou  Point  288. 
Carleton,N.  3.24. 
Carleton,  P.  Q.  288. 
Carrousel  Id.  283. 
Cascapediac  Bay  240. 
Casconipec  180. 
Castle  Id.,  Lab.  227. 
Catalina,  N.  F.  201. 
Catalogue,  C.  B.  164. 
Cataracouy  280. 
Cat  Cove  221. 
Caughnawaga  819. 
Cavendish,  F.  £.  1. 178. 
Cavenie  de  Bontempi  290. 
Cawee  Ids.  288. 
Centrul  Falmouth  91. 
Centre  Hill  209.  • 
Chaleur,  Bay  of;  64, 240. 
Chamcook  Mt.  SB. 
Champlain,  P.  Q.  807. 
Chance  Harbor  81. 
Change  Ids.  206,210. 
Channel,  N.  F.  216 
Chapel  Id.,  C.  B.  147. 
Charlesbourg,  P.  Q.  279. 
Charlottetown,P.  E.  1.176. 
Chateau  Bay,  Lab.  227. 
Chateau  BelleTue  287. 
Chateau  Bigot  280. 
Ch  Jiteau  Richer  284. 
Chatham,  N.  B.  61,  66. 
Cbaudi^re  Falls  2Si. 
Chebucto  Head  98. 
Chedabucto  Bay  148. 
Chester,  N.  8. 127, 90. 
Cheticamp,  C.  B.  170. 
Cheticamp,  N.  S.  114. 
Ghenetcook,  N.  8. 181. 
ChicouUmi,  P.  Q.  800. 
Chignecto,  Cape,  104. 
Chig^ecto  Peninsula  79. 
Chimney  Tickle  227. 
Cbiputneticook  Lakes,  N.  B, 

88,46. 
ChlTirl«98,102,106. 
Obonw  Brook  ml. 


Clboaz  Ida.  161. 
Clairrauz,  P.  Q.  292. 
Clare,  N.  8. 118. 
Clarendon,  N.  B.  88. 
Clementsport,  N.  8.  86. 
Clementsrale  86. 
Clifton,  N.  B.  66,  71. 
Clode  Sound  £03. 
Cloridorme  248. 
Clouds,  The,  221. 
Clyde  River.  N.  8. 124. 
Coacocho  River  281. 
CobequidMts.,N.  8.  80. 
Cocagne,  N.  B.  69. 
Colebrooke,  N.  B.  66. 
Cole's  Id.  N.  B.  47. 
Colioet,  N.  F.  213. 
Columbe  216 
Conception  Bay  196, 206. 
Gonche,  N.  F.  221. 
Contrecoeur,  P.  Q.  808. 
Corbin,  N.  F.  214. 
ComwallisTalley,  N.  8.  90, 

108, 107. 
Corny  Beach  248. 
CdttfdeBeaupre,28S. 

des  Neiges  818. 

St.  Antoine  818. 

St.  Luc  818. 

St.  Michel  818. 
Cottel's  Id.  208. 
Coudres,  Isle  aux  298. 
Country  Harbor  188. 
Covehead.P.  E  1.181. 
Cow  Bay  101, 150, 168. 
Cox'S  Point  49. 
Crabb's  Brook  217. 
Crane  Id,  P.  Q.  253. 
Crapaud,  P.  E.  1. 174. 
Creignish  168. 
Croque,  N.  F.  221. 
Cross  Id.,  N.  8. 118. 
Cumberland  Bay  49. 
Cumberland  Harbor  230. 
Cupids,  N.  F.  207. 

Dalhousie,  N.  B.  67. 
Dalibaire,  P.  Q.  249. 
Dark  Cove,  80. 
Dartmouth,  N.  8. 101. 
Dauphiney's  Cove  126. 
Davis  Strait  226. 
Dead  Ids.  216.  226.      . 
Deadman's  Isle  184. 
Debec  Junction  87. 
Debert  80, 106. 
Deep  Cove  127. 
Deerfield,  N  8  116. 
Deer  Harbor  209. 
Deer  Isle,  N.  B.  26. 
Deer  Lake  87. 
Deer  Pond  219. 
DemoiseUe  HUl  188. 
D«i7a  Bivw,  0.  B.  166. 


D»8abl»174. 
Deecente  das  ?eminM  80S. 
Desehambanlt  806. 
D'Escousse,  C.  B.  146. 
Despair,  Bay  of,  215. 
Despair,  Cape,  241. 
Devil  Id.  9a 
Devil's  Back,  N.  B.  41. 
Devil's  Qoose-Pasture  90. 
Devil's  Head  84. 
Diable  Bay  228. 
Digby,  N.  8.  84. 
Digby  Neck  116. 
Dipper  Harbor  81. 
Distress  Cove  212. 
Dodding  Head  214. 
Dollannan  Bank  202. 
DOr, Cape, N.  S.  103. 
Dorchester,  N.  B.  78. 
Doucet's  Id.  N  B.  34. 
Douglas  Harbor  49. 
Douglastown,  N.  B.  62. 
Donglastown,  P.  Q.  244. 
Douglas  Valley  88. 
Dumfries,  N  B.  62. 
Dundas,  N.  B.  69. 
Dundas,  P.  E.  1. 182. 
Dunk  River  174. 

Earitown,  N.  8. 188. 
East  Bay  147, 165.  214. 
Eastern  Passage  98. 
East  Point  182. 
Eastport,  Me-  26. 
^t  River  126, 226. 
Eboulements,  Les,  294. 
Echo  Lake  181. 
Economy  Point  106, 80. 
Ecureuils,  Les,  306. 
Eddy  Point  143. 
Edmundston,  N.  B.  67. 
Edoobekuk,  C.  B.  147. 
Eel  Brook  30. 
Egg  Ids.,  Lab.  283. 
Ekum  Sekum,  N.  8. 182. 
Ellershouse,  N.  8.  93. 
Elliot  River  174. 
Elmsdale,  N.  8  82. 
Elysian  Fields,  N.  8.  79; 
Enfield,  N.  8.  82. 
English  Harbor  201. 
En^ish  Harbor  West  214. 
English  Point  288. 
Englishtown,  C.  B  168. 
Enniskillen.  N.  B.  88. 
Entry  Id.  184. 
Escasoni,  C.  B.  148. 
Escuminac  Point  61. 
Esquimaux  Bay  230, 244. 
Eternity  Bay  8U3. 
Exploits  Id.  206, 210. 
Exploits,  River  of  210. 
Factoiy  Dale,  N  8. 80. 
fairTUk,N.B.87. 


324 


INDEX. 


Fairy  Lake.  N.  8.180. 
Falkland,  N.  8.  90, 08. 
Falls,  Cbaudiire  282, 820. 

Chiooutimi,  P.  Q.  800. 

Grand  66, 66. 

Grand,  N.  F.  210. 

Grande-M^re  307. 

Lorette,  P.  Q.  278. 

Maganfuadavic  32. 

Manitousln  232. 

Montmorenci  277. 

Nictau,  N.  S  89. 

North  River  105. 

Pabineau,  N.  B.  66. 

Pokiok,  N.  B.  62. 

Pollett  72. 

Rideau,  Ont.  320. 

Riviere  du  Loup  295. 

Riviere  du  Sud  263. 

St.  Anne,  P.  Q.  286. 

Sault  ill  la  Puce  284. 

Sbawanegan  307- 

8i8fliboo,  N.  S.  112. 
Falmouth,^.  S.  91 
Farmington,  N.  S.  89. 
Father  Point,  P.  Q.  250. 
Ferguson'fi  Cove  101. 
Fermeuse,  N.  F.  198. 
Fern  Ledges  24. 
Ferry  land,  N.  F.  198. 
Fish  Head  30. 
Five  Ids  ,  N.  S.  105,  80. 
Flagg's  Cove  29. 
Fleurant  Point  67. 
FlintId.,C.  B.  160, 153. 
Florenceville,  N.  B.  53. 
Flower  Gove  219. 
Fogo,  N.  F.  204. 
Folly  Pass,  N.  S.  80. 
Forks,  The  48. 64. 
Fort  Beaubassin  74,  78. 
Fort  Beausejour  74,  78. 
Fort  Cumberland  74,  78. 
Forteau,  Lab.  228. 
Fort  Fairfield,  Me.  54. 
Fort  Ingalls,  N.  B.  68. 
Fort  Jaques  Cartier  306. 
Fort  Kent,  Me.  68. 
Fort  Lawrence  74,  78. 
Fort  Meductic,  N.  B.  62, 48. 
Fort  NuDcopie,  Lab.  226. 
Fort  Nor  west.  Lab.  226. 
Fortune,  N.  F.  214. 
Foster's  tiove  54. 
Fourchette,  N.  F.  221. 
Fourchu,  0.  B.  147. 
Fox  Harbor,  N.  S.  103,  81. 
FoxHr'vor,  Ub.  224. 
Fox  River  248. 
Framboise,  0.  B.  147. 
Frazer's  Head  104. 
Fr«derioton,  N.  B.  44. 
Frederictoa  Juno.  88. 
Vnuoli  Crow,  N.  8.  89. 


French  Fort  Creek  180. 
French  Lake  48. 
Frenchman's  Core  214. 
French  River  138. 
French  Shore,  The  216. 
French  Village  161. 
Frenchville,  Me.  67. 
Freshwater  Bay  208. 
Friar's  Face  26. 
Frozen  Ocean  180. 
Funk  Id.,  N.  F.  204. 

Gabarus  Bay  164, 149. 
Gagetown,  N.  B.  42,  48. 
Oairloch,  N.  S.  136. 
Oalantry  Head  185. 
Ganibo  Ponds  203. 
Gander  Bay  210. 
Gannet  Rock,  N.  B  29. 
Gannet  Rock  184. 
Garia  Bay  215. 
Garnish,  N.  F.  214. 
Ga8pe,P.  Q.  244. 
Oaspereaux  Lake  90. 
Gay's  River,  N.  S  82. 
Gentilly,  P.  Q.  807. 
George  Id.  179. 
George's  Id.,  N.  8.98. 
Georgetown.P.  E.  1. 181,175 
Gibson,  N.  B.  49. 
Gilbert's  Coto  112. 
Glace  Bay  158, 160. 
Glengarry.  N.  S.  186. 
Goat  Id.,  N.  8.  86. 
Godbout,  Lab.  238. 
GoldeuTiUe,  N.  8. 138. 
Gold  River  128. 
Gondola  Point  71. 
Gooseberry  Isles,  208. 
Goose  Id.  268. 
Gouflre,  Le  298. 
Gowrie  Mines  158. 
Grand  Anse,  0.  B.  146. 
Grand  Anse,  N.  B.  66. 
Grand  Banks,  The  199. 
Grand  Bay  40. 
Grand  Digue  145. 
Grande  Bale  802. 
Grande-M6re  Falls  807. 
Grand  Falls,  Lab.  226. 
Grand  Falls,  N.  B.  55. 
Grand  Grgye,  P.  Q.  244. 
Grand  Harbor  29. 
Grand  Lake  86, 48. 
Grand  Lake  Stream  86. 
Grand  Manan  28. 
Grand  Narrows  164. 
Grand  Pond  218,  211. 
Grand  Pr6  107,  91, 101. 
Grand  River,  C.  B.  147. 
Grand  River,  N.  B.  66. 
Grand  River  241. 
Grand-River  Lake  147. 
Grand  Bustioo  178. 


Orandy'i  Brook,  216. 
Grant  Isle,  Me.  67. 
Granville,- N.  8.  86. 
Great  Bartibng  61. 
Great  Boule  238. 
Great  Bras  d'Or  161, 164. 
Great  Codroy  217. 
Great  Ha  Ha  Lake  802. 
Great  Harbor  Deep  2S1, 
Great  Meccatina  230. 
Great  Miquelon  186. 
Great  Pabos  241. 
Great  Pond  248. 
Great  Pubnico  Lake  124. 
Grtiat  St.  Jiawrence  214. 
Great  Shemogue  59. 
Great  Village  81. 
Green  Bay  211. 
Greenfield  130. 
Green  Harbor  209. 
Gieen  Ids  124, 214, 252. 
Greenly  Id.  229. 
Green  River  57. 
Greenspond,  N.  F.  208. 
Greenville  80. 
Greenwich  Hill  41. 
Grenville  Harbor  178.  . 
Griffin's  Cove  248. 
Griguet,  N.  F.  221. 
Grimross,  N.  B.  42. 
Grindstone  Id.  188. 
Grondines,  P.  Q.  806. 
Grosse  Isle  254. 
Grosses  Coques  118. 
Gull  Rock  121. 
Gut  of  Canso  142. 
Guysborottgh  188. 

Habitants  Bay  148. 
Ha  Ha  Bay,  P.  Q.  80L 
Halifiix,  N.  S  98. 

Admiralty  House  97. 

Cathedral  98. 

Citadel  96. 

Dalhousie  Coll.  96.  . 

Gov't  House  98. 

Harbor  98. 

Hortio:  Gardens  98. 

Museum  93 

ParUament  Building  96. 

Provincial  Building  95. 

Queen's  Dockyard  97. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.  96. 
Halifax,  P.  E.  1. 179. 
Hall's  Bay  211, 218. 
Hammond's  Plains  100. 
Hampton,  N.  B.  71. 
Hampton,  N.  8.  89. 
Ilantsport.  N.  8.  91, 101. 
Harbor  Briton  214. 
Harbor  Buffet  212. 
Harbor  Grace,  N.  F.  207. 
Harborville,  N.  8.  90. 
Hare  Bay,  N.  F.  221. 


] 

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1 

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INIXEX. 


325 


. 


100. 
,101. 


Wun7C.,V.(i.2B2. 

Hare's  Ears  198. 
Hara's-Head  Hills  218. 
Harmony,  P.  £.  1. 182. 
Uarrey,  N.  B.  88. 
Harvey  Comer  72. 
Haulover  lAtbmus  146. 
HaTelock,  N.  S.  89. 
Head  of  Amherst  78. 
Heart  Ridge,  N.  F.  210. 
Heart's  Content  208. 
Heart's  Delight  209. 
Heart's  Desire  209. 
Heart's  Ease.N.  F.  209. 
HebertTille.  P.  Q.  800. 
Hebron,  Lab.  22ti. 
Heights  of  Land  226. 
Hell  IliU  197. 
Hermitage  Bay  216. 
Herring  CoTe,  N.  8.  93. 
High  Beacon  227. 
Highland  Park  28. 
Highland  Village  81. 
High  Point  801. 
Hillsborough,  N.  B.  72. 
Hillsborough  Bay  174. 
Hillsborough  River  180. 
Hillsburn  m. 
Hochelaga,  P.  Q.  818. 
Hodge- Water  River  213. 
Holland  Bay,  180. 
Holy  rood,  N.  F.  199. 
Holy  rood  Pond  213. 
Hooping  Harbor  221. 
Hope,  P.  Q.  241. 
Hope  All,  N.  F.  209. 
Hopedale,  Lab.  226. 
Hopewell  136. 
Hopewell  Cape  72- 
Horton  Landing  91. 
Hculton,  Me.  87,61. 
Howe's  Lake  28. 
Hudson's  Strait  226. 
Humber  River  219. 
Hunter  River  177, 178. 

Indian  Bay  167.  203. 
Indian  Beach  80. 
Indian  Gardens  180. 
Indian  Id.,  Lab.  226. 
Indian  Ids.  210. 
Indian  Lorette  278. 
Indian  Tickle  226. 
Indiantown,  N.  B.  47. 
Indian  Village  61. 
Ingonish,C.B.  169. 
Intervale  183 
lonclay  Hill  197. 
Irish  Cove,  C.  B.  147. 
Ironbound  Cove,  N.  B  49. 
Ironbound  Id.,  N.  S.  110. 
Island,  Alright  184. 

Amherst  188. 

AmticoBti  284. 


Island,  Baeealieii,  N.  F.  201. 
Bamaby,  P.  Q.  260. 
Beaubair's  68. 
Bellechasse  264. 
Bic,  P.  Q.  260. 
Blackbill  227. 
Bonaventure  243. 
Bon  Portage  124. 
Boughton  176. 
Boularderie  l61. 
Brandy  Pots  262. 
Brier  117. 
Brunei  214. 
Bryon  184. 
Campobello  26. 
Ca].e  Breton  111. 
Cape  Sable  123. 
Caribou  176, 224. 
Carrousel  238. 
Castle,  Lab.  227. 
Caton's  41. 
Cawee233. 
Chapel  147. 
Cheticamp  170. 
Cheyne  29. 
Christmas  164. 
Cobbler's  203. 
Coffin  184. 
Cole's  47. 
Cottel'8  203. 
Crane,  P.  Q. 263. 
Cross,  N.  S.  118. 
Dead,  N.  F.  226. 
Deer  203. 
Devil,  N.  S.  93. 
Egg,  Lab.  233. 
Entry  184. 

Esquimaux,  Lab.  281. 
Exploits,  N.  F.  206,  210. 
Fair,  N.  F.  208. 
Fishflake  227. 
Fly  226. 

Fogo,  N.  F.  204, 210. 
Foster's,  N.  B.  41. 
Fox,  N.  B.  61. 
Funk,  N.  F.  203. 
George  179. 
George's,  N.  S.  98. 
Goat,  N.  S.  86. 
Goose,  P.  Q.  263. 
Governor's  176. 
Grand  Dune  61. 
Grand  Manan  28. 
Grassy,  N.  B.  41. 
Great  Caribou  224. 
Green  124, 201,  220,  262. 
Grimross,N.  U  43. 
Grindstone  72, 188. 
Grosse  184. 
Hare,  P.  Q.  262. 
Henry  169. 
Heron  67. 
Horse  221. 
Huntington  226. 


Island,  Indian  226. 
Ireland,  N.  F.  21& 
Ironbound  119. 
Jaques  Oartier  220. 
Kamoufaska  262. 
Large  231. 

Lennox,  P.  E.  1. 179. 
Little  Miquelon  186. 
Little  Bay  211. 
Locke's,  N.  S.  121. 
Long  42, 101 ,107, 117. 212. 
Lower  Musquash  42. 
McNab's,N.  8. 101,93. 
Madame,  P.  Q.  264. 
Manger's  43. 
Melville  101. 
Merasheen  212. 
Middle  48. 
Miquelon  186. 
Miscou  64. 
Bloose  26. 
Nantucket  29. 
Negro  122. 
Newfoundland  187. 
New  World  206. 
of  Ponds  226. 
Panmure,  P.  E.  1. 176. 
Park,  P  E.  L179. 
Partridge,  N.  B.  16. 
Partridge,  N.  8. 102,  lOa 
Penguin  203. 
Pictou,  N.  8. 176. 
Pilgrims  262. 
Pincher's  203. 
Pinnacle  106. 
Pockf  uedie  63. 
Pool's  203. 
Portage  61. 
Priests'  818. 
Prince  Edward  172. 
Quarry  281. 
Quirpon  220. 
Ram  121. 

Random,  N.  F.  209. 
Reaux,  P.  Q.  264. 
Red  212,  218,  262. 
Sable  134. 
Saddle  228. 
Sagcna  214. 
St.  liarbe  221. 
St.  Paul's  160. 
St.  Pierre  186. 
Sandous  46. 
Seal,  N.  S.  124. 
Sea-Wolf  169. 
Sheldrake  61. 
Shippigan  68. 
Smith's  169. 
Spencer's  103, 104, 106. 
Spotted,  N.  F.  226. 
Square,  Lab.  226. 
Stonn  Pillar  268. 
Sugar  60jj61. 
Venison  226. 


326 


INDEX. 


bland,  Yin,  If .  B  6L 

White  Head  29. 

White  Hone  81. 

Wolf  184. 

Wood  Pillar  258. 
loland.^  Battle  224. 

Burnt  215. 

Camp  227- 

Ciboux  161. 

Dead  215. 

Five  105. 

Lit  le  St.  Modeste  228. 

Magdalen  183. 

Mingan  281. 

Mutton  124. 

Penguin  203. 

Ragged  212. 

Kamea  215. 

Ram'fl,  N.  F.  212. 

Red  147. 

Seal  225. 

Seven,  Lab.  232. 

Tancookj.N.  S.  128. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  125. 
Isle  aux  Ohiens  185. 

aux  Coudres  2^. 

Bell,  N.  F.  221. 

Belle  206, 220. 

Deadman'a  184. 

Deer,  N.  B.  25. 

Oroais  221. 

Haute  104. 

JesuJi  318. 

Madame  145. 

of  Orleans  288. 

St  Louis  804. 

St.  Therew  308. 

Verte,  P  Q.  252. 
Isles,  Bird  184. 

Burgeo  215 

de  la  Demoiselle  230. 

Gooseberry  203. 

Passe  Pierre  305. 

Peterel  227. 

Twillingate  205. 

Wadham,  N.  F.  203. 

West,  N.  B.  26, 81. 

Jackson^s  Arm  221. 
Jacksonville,  N.  S  90. 
Jaques  Cartierd06. 
Jebogue  Point  125. 
Jeddore,  N.  S.  132. 
Jemseg,  N.  B.  42,  48. 
Jerseyman  Td.  145. 
Jesus,  Isle  318. 
Jeune-Lorette  278. 
Joe  Batt's  Arm  210. 
Jogging  Shore  80. 
Jolicoeur,  N.  B.  78. 
Joliette,  P.  Q. 
Jonquiere  300. 
Judique,  G.  B.  168. 
Jullanshaab,  Or.  226. 


Kamonnuiks,  P.  Q.  I 
Keels,  N.F.  208. 
Kegashka  Bay  28L 
Kempt  Head  162. 
Kempt,  N  8. 116. 
Kempt  Lake,  N.  S.  90. 
Kennebecasis  Bay  40,  22. 
Kenogami,  P.  Q.  800. 
Kensington  178. 
Kentville,  N.  S.  90. 
Keswick  Valley  60. 
Keyhole,  N.  B.  49. 
Kingsclear,  N.  B.  51. 
King's  Cove  203. 
Kingston,  N.  B.  42. 
Kingston,  N.  S.  89. 
Kouchibouguac  Bay  61. 

La  Bonne  St.  Anne  286. 
Labrador  223. 
Lac  k  la  Belle  Tmite  802. 
Lachine,  P.  Q.  320. 
La  Fleur  de  Lis  221. 
Lahave  River  128. 
Lake  AInslie  167, 169. 

Bathurst  211. 

Bear  38. 

Beauport  279. 

Belfry  154. 

Ben  Lomond  28. 

Blind  123. 

Catalogue,  C.  B.  154. 

Cedar,  N.  S.  115. 

Chamberlain,  Me.  68. 

Chesuncook  58. 

Cleveland  57. 

Cranberry  38. 

Croaker's  211. 

Echo,  N.  S.  131. 

Fairy,  N.  S.  130. 

French,  N.  B.  48. 

Oabarus,  C.  B  154. 

Gaspereaux  90. 

George  61,  90, 116. 

George  IV.  211 

Grand  48,  86,  82. 

Gravel  296. 

Great  Ha  Ha  802. 

Jones  23. 

Kempt  90. 

Lewey's,  Me.  86. 

Lily,  N.  B.  22. 

Little  Ha  Ha  302. 

Long,  P.  Q.  68. 

Long,  N.  S.  82. 

Magaguadavic  88. 

Malaga,N.S.  129. 

Manor,  P.  Q.  319. 

Maquapit,  N.  B.  48. 

Metapedia  69. 

Mira,  C  B.  154. 

Mistassini  301. 

Moosehead  68. 

Mount  Theobald  71. 


Lake  NepMsidt  tt. 

Nietor,  N.  B.  86. 

Oromocto  88. 

Peehtaweekagomle  68. 

Pemgockwahen  68. 

Pockwock  100. 

Pohenagamook  68.    . 

Ponhook,  N.  S.  126. 

Porter's  181. 

Port  Medway  180. 

Preble,  Me.  67. 

Prince  WilUam  62. 

Queen's,  N.  B.  87. 

Quiddy  Viddy  196. 

Robin  Hool  87. 

Rocky,  N.  S.  82. 

Rns<>ignol  130. 

St.  Charles  279. 

St.  Joachim  287. 

St.  John,  P.  Q.  801. 

St.  Peter,  P.  Q.  807. 

Sedgwick  67. 

Segum  Sqpt  180. 

Sheogomoc  62. 

Sheplody,  N.  B.  72. 

Sherbrooke  90. 

Sherwood,  N.  B.  87. 

Ship  Harbor  132. 

S.  Oromocto  38. 

Spruce,  N.  B.  24. 

Stream  49. 

Taylor's  23. 

Temiscouata  68,  295. 

Terra  Nova  203. 

Tracy's,  N  B.  71. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  115. 

Two-Mile  90. 

Utopia,  N.  B.  32. 

Vaughan,  N.  S.  116. 

Washademoak  47,  42. 

Welastookwaagamis  68. 

Wentworth  113. 

Windsor,  N.  F.  196. 

Winthrop,  Me.  68. 
Lakes,  Aylesford  90. 

Bras  d*Or  161. 

Chiputneticook  88. 

Dartmouth  101. 

Eagle,  Me.  68. 

Schoodic,  Me.  85. 

Tusket,  N.  S.  116. 
La  Manche  197, 212. 
Lance-au-Loup  228. 
Lance  Cove  206. 
Land's  End,  41. 
Langley  Id  186. 
Lanoraie,  P.  Q.  308. 
L'Anse  k  I'Eau  305. 
La  Poile,  N.  F.  216. 
L'Archevlque  147. 
L'Ardoise,  0.  B.  146. 
Large  Id.  231. 
i:iaScie221,211. 
L'ABsomption,  P.  Q.  808. 


'■ 


INDEX. 


327 


■■ 


I. 


• 


\2. 
68. 


808. 


LBTalBlT0r299. 
Lavaltrie,  P.  Q.  808. 
LaTieiUe246. 
Lawlor's  Lake  70. 
Lawrencetown  89, 181. 
Luaretto,  Tracadie  62. 
Ledge,  The  86. 
Leitchfleld,  N.  S.  86. 
Lennox  Id.  179. 
Lennox  Paamge  146. 
Lee  Eboulemente  294. 
Les  Ecureulls  806. 
Lea  Eecoumains  288. 
L'Etang  du  Nord  184. 
L'Etang  du  Sarorard  186. 
L'Etang  Harbor  81. 
Letito  Passage  82. 
Levis,  P.  Q.  282. 
Lewey's  Id.  85. 
Lewis  CoTe  47. 
Lily  Lake  22. 
Lingan  162, 160. 
Lion's  Back  28. 
Uscomb  Harbor  182. 
L'Islet,  P.  Q.  263. 
L'Islet  au  Massacre  260. 
Little  Arichat  146. 
Little  Bay  Id.  206,211. 
Little  Bras  d'Or  161. 
Little  Falls  67. 
Little  Olace  Bay  163. 
Little  Ha  Ha  Lake  302. 
Little  Loran  154. 
Little  Miquelon  186. 
Little  Narrows  167. 
Little  Pabos  241. 
Little  Placentia  212. 
Little  Rirer  22. 
Little  Rocher  72. 
Little  SflHguenay  804. 
Little  St.  Lawrence  214. 
Little  Seldom-come-by  210. 
Little  Shemogue  69. 
Little  Tancook  128. 
Liverpool,  N.  S.  120, 130. 
Lobster  Harbor  221. 
Loch  Alva  87. 
Loch  an  Fad  147. 
Loch  Lomond,  G.  B.  147. 
Loch  Lomond,  N.  B.  22. 
Lochside,  C.  B.  147. 
Loch  Uist  147. 
Locke'Sld.,N.  8  121. 
Logic  Bay  195.  200. 
Londonderry  106. 
Long  Id.  40, 42. 101, 117. 
Long  Pilgrim  262. 
Long  Point  281. 
Long  Range  217. 
Long  Reacn  41. 
Long's  Eddy  80. 
Longue  Point  819. 
Lorette,  Indian  278. 
Lotbiniire»  P.  Q.  806. 


Lonlsboiuv,  C.  B.  164, 140. 
Loup  Bay  228. 
Low  Point  168. 
Lower  Canterbury  62. 
Lower  Caraqnette  66. 
Lower  French  Yill  6l. 
Lower  Horton  107. 
Lower  Midd'eton  89. 
Lower  Prince  William  61. 
Lower  Queensbury  61. 
Lower  Woodstock  62. 
Lubec,  Me.  26. 
Ludlow,  N.  B.  47. 
Lunenburg  118, 128. 

Mabon,  C.  B.  169. 
Mabou  Valley  168. 
McAdam  June.  S3. 
Maccan,  N.  8.  80, 79. 
Mace's  Bay  81. 
McNab's  Id.  101, 98. 
Madawaska  67. 
Magaguadavic  River  82. 
Magdalen  Ids.  188. 
Magdelaine,  Cape  248. 
Magnacha  Point  67,  239. 
Magundy,  N.  B.  61. 
Mahogany  Road  24. 
Mahone  Bay  127, 118. 
Main-4-Dieu  160. 
Maitland  82, 106, 129. 
Malaga  LAke  130. 
Malngawdatchkt  166. 
Malbaie,  P.  Q.  294. 
Mai  Bay  244. 
Malcolm  Point  61. 
Malignant  Gove  189. 
Malpeque  Harbor  178. 
Manchester,  N.  S.  183. 
Manicouagan  238,  260. 
Manitousin  Falls  232. 
Maquapit  Lake  48. 
Marchmont  280. 
Margaree  River  167. 
Margaree  Forks  170. 
Margaretsville  89. 
Maria,  P.  Q.  240. 
Marie  Joseph  182. 
Marion  Bridge  164. 
Marshalltown  112. 
Mars  Head  117. 
Mars  Hill  64. 
Marsh  Road  22. 
Marshy  Hope  188. 
Mascarene  82. 
Masstown  81. 
Matane,  P.  Q.  249. 
Mattswamkeag  89, 68. 
MaugerviUe.  N.  B.  48. 
Mealy  Mts.  226. 
Meccatina,  Lab.  280. 
Medisco,  N.  B.  66. 
Meductio  Rapids  62. 
M^Janoette  Portage  40. 


MelftmlOi«ekl48. 

Melroee,  N.  8-  82. 
Melvem  Square  89. 
Melville  Id.  101. 
Melville  Lake  226. 
Memramcook  78. . 
Merasheen  Id.  212. 
Merigomish  188. 
Metapedia  69. 
Meteghan,  N.  8. 118. 
M«ti8.  P.  Q.  249. 
Middle  Musquodoboit  82. 
Middle  River  163, 167. 
Middle  Simonds,  68. 
Middle  Stewiacke  81. 
Middlet(Hi,  N.  S.  89. 
Milford,  N.  8. 129. 
Milford  Haven  188. 
Milkish  Channel  41. 
Mill  Gove,  N.  B.  49. 
Mille  Yaches  299. 
MUltown,  N.  B.  86. 
Mill  Tillage  128. 
Minas  Basin  101, 108. 
Mingan  Ids.,  Lab.  281. 
Ming's  Bight  221. 
Minister's  Face  22. 
Minudie,  N.  S.  79. 
Miquelon  186, 214. 
Mira  Bay  160. 
Mira  Lake,  C.  3. 164. 
Miramichi,  N.  B.  61. 
Miscouche  179. 
Miscou  Id.  64. 
Mispeck,  N.  B.  28. 
Missiguash  Marsh  79,  74. 
Mission  Point  68. 
Misibnoque  Id.  280. 
Mistassini,  Lake  801. 
Moisic  River  282. 
Molasses  Harbor  184. 
Momoseket  River  66. 
Moncton,  N.  B  72. 
Money  Cove  80. 
Montogue  Bridge  181. 
Montague  Mines  101, 181. 
Mont  Joli  231. 
Mont  Louis  249. 
Montmorenci  Falls  277. 
Montreal,  P.  Q.  809. 

Bonsecours  Market  812. 

Champ  de  Mars,  812. 

Christ  Ch.  Cathed.  814. 

Court  House  812. 

Dominion  Sq.  816. 

Qeolog.  Museum  812. 

Gcsii  Church  818. 

Gray  Nunnery  816. 

Qreat  Seminary  816. 

Hotel  Dieu  816. 

Institut  Canadien  812. 

McOill  Univ.  814. 

Montreal  Coll.  816. 

Mt  Royal  816. 


328 


INDEX. 


MontrMd,  NuareCh    Aiyl. 
816 

New  Cathednl  816. 

Notre  Dame  811. 

Place  d'Armeii  811. 

Po0t-Offlce  811. 

Beoiinary  812. 

8t.  Helea'B  Isle  818. 

Victoria  Bridge  816. 

Victoria  Square  811. 
Moose  Harbor  120. 
Moosepath  Park  22. 
Morden,  N.  S.  80. 
Monell,  P.  B.  1. 182. 
Morris  Id.  116. 
Morristown  90, 139. 
Mosquito  Cove  208. 
Moes  Glen  22- 
Moulin  &  Baude  299. 
Mount  Aspotogon  127. 

Blair  82. 

Calvaire  186. 

Camille  250. 

Cbapeau  &86. 

Dalbousie  67* 

Benson  91. 

£boulement8  294, 268. 

GrauTille  146. 

Hawley  89. 

Hermon  Cemet  280. 

Joli  242. 

Nat  225. 

Pisgah  71. 

Royal  816, 818. 

St.  Anne  m 

Stewart,  P.  B.  1. 181. 

TeneriCfe,  N.  B.  65. 

XTniacke,  N.  S.  98. 
Mountidn.  Ardoise,  98. 

Bald,  88,  65. 

Beloeil  819. 

Boar's  Back  182. 

Boucbenrille  819. 

Chamcook  83. 

North  84. 

Salt  168. 

South  84. 

Sugar-Loaf  159. 

Tracadiegash  67,  289. 
Mountains,  Antigonish  189. 

Baddeck  163. 

Blue  84,  90, 115, 180. 

Cobequid  80. 

Ingonish  161. 

Mealy  225. 

Notre  Dame  249. 

St.  Anne  287. 

St  Margaret  302. 

Scaumenac  68. 

Sporting  146. 
Mull  River  168. 
Murray  Bay  18)4. 
Murray  Harbor  181. 
Huihaboon  Harbor  182. 


Musquash.  N.  B.  81. 
MusquodoDoit  181. 
Mutton  Ids.  124. 

Nain,  Ub.  226. 
Napan  Valley  61. 
Narrows,  The  47, 64. 
Narrows,  Grand  164. 
Nashwaak  47. 
Nashwaaksis  45. 
Natashquan  Point  281. 
Natural  Steps,  The  277. 
Necum  Tench  132. 
Negro  Id.,  N.  S.  122. 
Negrotown  Point  15. 
Ne'Aon,  N.  B.  ea 
Nepisiguit  Lake  55. 
Nepisiguit  River  65. 
Nerepis  Hills,  N.  B.  41. 
Nentpis  River  88. 
Netsbuctoke  225. 
Neutral  Id.,  N.  B.  84. 
New  Albany,  N.  S.  89. 
New  Bandon  66. 
New  Bay  211. 
New  Bonaventure  210. 
New  Brunswick  13. 
Newburgh,  N.  B.  50. 
New  Canaan  48. 
New  Carlisle  240. 
Newcastle  49,  62. 
New  Dublin  119. 
New  Edinburgh  112. 
Newfoundland  187. 
New  Glasgow,  N.  S.  136. 
New  Glasgow,  P.  E.  1. 178. 
New  liverpool  282. 
New  London  178. 
Newman  Sound  208. 
New  Perlican  209. 
Newport,  N.  8.  92, 101. 
Newport,  P.  Q.  241. 
New  Richmond  240. 
New  Ross,  N.  S.  90. 
New  Tusket  113. 
Niapisca  Id.  231. 
Nicolet.  P.  Q  308. 
Nictau  Falls  89. 
Nictor  Lake  55. 
Niger  Sound  227. 
Nimrod,  N.  F.  211. 
Nipper's  Harbor  206,  211. 
Noel,  N.  S.  105. 
North  Bay  214. 
Northern  Head  80. 
Northfieid  129. 
North  Harbor  212. 
North  Joggins  73. 
North  Lake  182. 
North  Mt.  84. 
North  Point  180. 
North  River  Falls  106. 
North  Rustico  178. 
North  Bjiatf  151. 


Northumberluid  Strait  QO. 

174, 288. 
Northwest  Arm  100. 
North  Wiltshire  177. 
Norton,  N.  B.  71, 42. 
Norwest,  Lab.  226- 
Notre  Dame  Bay  210, 206» 
Notre  Dame  du  Lao  68. 
Nova  Scotia  75. 
Nubble  Id.  81. 

Oak  Bay   .>f.  B.  84. 
OakPoiut41,61. 
Ochre  Pit  Cove  208. 
Offer  Wadham  204. 
Okkak,  Lab.  226. 
Old  Barns  81. 
Old  Bonaventure  210. 
Old  Ferolle  219. 
Old  Fort  Point  158. 
Oldham  Mines  82. 
Old  Maid  29. 
Old  Periican  209, 201. 
Oldtown,  Me.  39. 
Olonianosheebo  281*' 
Onslow  80. 
Oromocto,  N.  B.  48. 
Oromocto  Lake  88. 
Orono,  Me.  39. 
Otnabog,  N.  B.  42. 
Ottawa,  Ont.  320. 
Outarde  River  250. 
Oxford,  N.  S.  80. 
Ovens,  the  119. 

Pabineau  Falls  66. 
Pabos,  P.  Q.  241. 
Painsec  June.  72, 69. 
PapsofMatane249. 
Paradise,  N.  F.  226. 
Paradise,  N.  S.  89. 
ParrsboroVN.  S.  102. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.  B.  16. 
Partridge  Id.,  N.  S.  102. 
Paspebiac,  P.  Q  240. 
Patrick's  Hole  200. 
Patten,  Me.  58. 
Penguin  Ids.  203. 
Penobscot  River  39. 
Penobsqui»,  N.  B.  71. 
Pentecost  River  238. 
Pepiswick  Lake  181. 
Petce,  P.  Q.  242. 
Perroquets,  The  282. 
Perry,  Me.  28. 
Perth,  N.  B.  54. 
Petitcodiac  72, 48. 
Petit  de  Grat  145. 
Petite  Bergeronne  288. 
Petite  Passage  117. 
Petit  Metis  249. 
Petty  Harbor  197. 
Piccadilly  Mt  7L 
Piokwaakeet  42. 


1 


P 
P 
P 
P 


P 
P. 
P( 
P( 


P< 
l'< 


tflO, 


Dft. 


< 


Pfetem  187, 166. 
Pietou  Id.  176. 
Pilgrims,  Tlie  262. 
Pincher's  Id.  208L 
Pinoacle  Id.,  N.  S.  106. 
Pirate's  Core  143. 
Pisarinco  Cove  81. 
Placentia  Bay  212. 
Plains  of  Abraham  280. 
Plaster  Cove  143, 168. 
Pleasant  Bay  183. 
Pleasant  Point  27. 
Pleureuse  Point  249. 
Plumweseep  71. 
Pockmoucbe,  N.  B.  62. 
Pocksliaw,  N.  B.  66. 
Point  k  Beaulieu  295 
Point  Aconi,  C.  B.  161. 

Amour,  Lab.  228. 

i.  Pique  294. 

an  Bourdo  69.' 

de  Monts  £33, 249. 

du  ChSne  69, 60. 

la  Boule  806. 

Lepreau  31. 

Levi,  P  Q.  282. 

Moquereau  241. 

Miscou,  N.  B.  64. 

Orignaux  252. 

Pleasant  40, 68, 100. 

Prim  176, 181. 

Rich,  N.  F.  219. 

St.  Charles  316. 

St.  Peter  244. 

Wolfe,  N.  B.  71. 
Pointe  k  la  Qarde  68. 

&  la  Croix  68. 

aux  Trembles  306, 809. 

Mille  Vaches  233. 

Roches  301. 

Rouge  299. 
Pokiok  Falls  62. 
Pollett  River  72. 
Pomquet  Forks  139. 
Pond,  Deer,  N.  F.  219. 

Grand,  N.  F  218. 

Red  Indian  211. 

Quemo-Gospen  213. 
Ponhook  Lake  130, 126. 
Port  Acadie,  N.  S.  113. 
Portage  Road,  N.  B.  61. 
Port  au  Basque,  N.  F.  216. 

auChoix219. 

au  Persil,  P.  Q.  296. 

au  Pique  81. 

au  Port,  N.  F.  218. 

aux  Quilles,  296. 

Dania  241. 

Elgin,  N.  B.  73. 
Porter's  Lake,  N.  S.  181. 
Port  GreTille,  N.  S.  108. 

Hastings,  0.  B.  148. 

Hawkesbuiy  148. 

Herbert,  N.  S.  12L 


INDEX. 


Port  Hill,  P.  B.  1. 179. 

Hood,  G.  B.  169. 

Joli,  N.  8. 121. 

Latour,  N.  S.  122. 

Medway,  N.  S.  120. 

Mouton  120. 

MulgrttTe  143, 140. 
Port  Meuf,  Lab.  238. 
Portneuf,  P.  Q.  306. 
Porto  Nuevo  Id.  149. 
Portugal  Cove  196,  206. 
Port  St.  Augustine  280. 
Port  WUliams  89, 91. 
Powder-Hom  Hills  212. 
Pownal,  P.  E.  1. 177. 
Presque  Isle,  Me.  54. 
Preston  N.  S.  181. 
Preston's  Beach  61. 
Prim  Point  83. 
Prince  Edward  Id.  172. 
Princetown,  P.  E.  1. 178. 
Prince  William  52. 
Prince  William  St.  89. 
Pubnico,  N.  S.  126. 
Pugwash81,80. 

Quaco,  N.  B.  71. 
Quebec,  P.  Q.  256. 

Anglican  Cathedral  260. 

Basilica  261. 

Cathedral  261. 

Citadel  266. 

Custom  House  271. 

Durham  Terrace  259. 

Esplanade  268 

Gen.  Hospital  272. 

Gov.'s  Garden  269. 

Grand  Battery  269. 

Hdtel  Dieu  266 

Jesuits'  College  261. 

Laval  University  268. 

Lower  Town  271. 

Marine  IIosp  272. 

Market  Sq.  260. 

Martello  Towers  270. 

Montcalm  Ward  270. 

Morrin  College  265- 

N.  D.  des  Victoires  271. 

Parliament  Building  263. 

Post-Offlce  264. 

St.  John  Ward  269. 

St.  Roch  272. 

Seminary  262. 

Ursuline  Gonv.  264. 
Quemo  Gospen  213. 
Quiddy  Viddy  196. 
Quirpon,  N.  F.  220. 
Quispamsis,  N  B.  70. 
Quoddy  Head  26. 
Ragged  Harbor  201. 
Ra^ed  Ids.  212. 
Ramea  Ids.  N.  F.  215. 
Ram  Id.  121. 
Ram's  Ids.  N.  F.  212. 


329 

i, 

Random  Sound  909. 
Rankin's  Mills,  N.  B.  87. 
Rapide  de  Femme  66. 
Rapids,  Lachine  818. 

Meductic  52. 

St,  Anne  820. 

St.  Mary's  819. 

Terres  Rompues  800. 
Red  Bay  228. 
RedClifi8,Lab.220,228. 
Red  Head,  N.  F.  200. 
Red  Hills,  N.  P.  199. 
Red-Indian  Pond  210, 211. 
Red  Ids.  147. 
Red  Point  182. 
Red  Rapids.  N.  B.  64. 
Remsheg,  N.  S.  81. 
Renewfe,  N.  F.  198. 
Renlrew,N.  S.  82. 
Repentigny,  P.  Q.  808- 
Re8tigouche  River  69,  66. 
Richibucto,  N.  B.  60. 
Richmond  Bay  178. 
Rigolette,  Lab.  226. 
Kimouski,  P.  Q.  250. 
River,  Avon,  N  S.  91. 

Charlo,  N.  B.  66. 

Deuys,  G.  B.  166. 

Gold,  N.  S.  128 

Qouffre,  P.  Q.  292. 

Hillsborough  180. 

Humber,  N   F.  219. 

John,N  S.81. 

LaHave,  N.  S.  128. 

Louison,  N.  B.  66. 

Magagnadavic  Si. 

Mauitou,  Lab.  282. 

Minunichi  61. 

Mistassini  301. 

MoiRic.  Lab.  232. 

Nvpisiguit66.56. 

of  Castom  219. 

Exploits  210. 

Ottawa  320. 

Petitcodiac  72. 

Philip,  N.  S.  80. 

Restigouche  69, 56. 

Saguenay  297,  '^S8. 

St.  Anne,  P.  Q.  288. 

St.  Croix,  N.  B  83. 

St.  John,  Lab  282. 

St.  Lawrence  246, 806 

St.  Marguerite  805. 

St.  Mary's,  N.  S.  ISa 

St  Maurice  807. 
Riversdale,  N.  S  186. 
River,  Tobique  64. 
Riviere  ^I'Ours  301. 

k  Mars  302. 

du  Loup  295, 252. 

Maheu  290. 

Quelle,  P.  Q.  252. 
Robbinston,  Me.  38. 
Bobenral,  P.  Q.  801. 


330 


INDEX. 


Boblnwm'i  Point  48. 
Roohette,  N.  B.  88. 
Bock,  Perc«  242. 
BockUnd,  N.  B.  78. 
Bockport  78. 
Booky  Bay,  N.  F.  210. 
Rocky  Lake,  N.  S.  82. 
BoUoBay.P.E.  1.182. 
Bosades,  The  251. 
Bom  Bay  119. 
Bose  Blanche  216 
BoMignol  Lake  130. 
Rossway,  N.  S.  116. 
Bothesay  22,  70. 
Bough  Waters  €6. 
Bound  Harbor  211. 
Boute  des  Pretren  290. 
Royalty  June.  177. 
Bostico,  P.  £.  I.  \78. 

Sabbattee  Lake  127. 
Babimm  Lake  124. 
Sable  Id.  134. 
SackviUe,  If .  B.  78. 
Sacred  Ida.  220. 
Saddle  Id.  227. 
Bagona  Id.  214. 
Saguenay  River  297. 
St.  Agnes,  P.  Q.  295. 
St.  Albans,  P.  Q.  281. 
St.  Alexis  69,  302. 
St.  Alphonse,  P.  Q.  802. 
St.  Andrews,  N.B.  33,28. 
St.  Andrews,  P.  E.  I.  181. 
St.  Andrew's  Channel  165. 
St.  Angel  de  Laval  307. 
St.  Anne  (bout  de  I' L)  320 
St.  Anne  de  Beaupr^  285. 
St.  Anne  de  la  Perade  307. 
St.  Anne  de  la  Pocatiire  253 
St.  Anne  des  Monjs  249. 
St.  Anne  du  Nord  285. 
St.  Anne  du  Saguenay  800. 
St.  Anne  Mts.  287. 
St.  Anne's  Bay  158. 
St.  Anthony  221. 
St.  Antoine  de  Tilly  806. 
St.  Antoine  Perou  292. 
St.  Ars^ne  296. 
St.  Augustin  806. 
St.  Barbe  219. 
St.  Basil  57. 
St.  Bruno  319. 
St.  Cici\e  du  Die  251. 
St.  Charles  Harbor  227. 
St.  Colomb  280. 
St.  Croix,  P.  Q.  306. 
St.  Croix  Cove  89. 
St.  CroizBiver88. 
St.  Cuthbert  808. 
St.  David's  178. 
St.  Denis,  P.  Q.  252. 
St.  Donat,  P.  Q  260. 
St.  Eleanors,  P.  B.  1. 179. 


St.  Eltebeth,  P.  Q.  806. 
St.  Esprit,  C.  B.  148. 
St.  Etienne  Bay  806. 
St.  Fabien,  P.  Q.  261. 
St.  Famine,  P.  Q.  289. 
St.  FeUcitoS  P.  Q.  249. 
St.  Felix  de  Yalois  808. 
St.  Fereol,  P.  Q.  287. 
St.  Fiddle,  P.  Q.  296. 
St.  Flavie  70, 250. 
St  Foy,  P.  Q.  281. 
St.  Francis  68. 
St.  Francis  Harbor  225. 
St.  Fran^ob  290. 

Fran9ois  du  Lac  808. 
FrauQois  Xavier  292. 
Fulgence  801. 
Genevieve  219. 
George,  N.  B.  82. 
George's  Bay  217. 
George's  Channel  166. 
St.  Germain  de  Rim.  260. 
St.  Iren«e  294. 
St.  Ignace,  Cap  268. 
St.  Jaques  '^14. 
St.  Jean  Baptlste  318. 
St.  Jean  Df»chaiUons  807. 
St.  Jean  d'Orleans  290. 
St.  Jean-Port-Joll  258. 
St.  Jerome,  P.  Q.  801. 
St.  Joachim  287. 
St.  John,  N.  B.  16. 

Cathedral  18. 

Custom-House  17. 

Gen.  Pub.  Uosp.  18. 

Harbor  15. 

King  Square  16. 

Post-Office  17. 

St.  Paul's  19. 

Trinity  17. 

Valley,  The  19. 

Wiggins  Asyl.  17. 

Y.  M.  C.  A.  16. 
St.  John,  Lake  801. 
St.  John's,  N.  F.  189. 

Anglican  Cathedral  191. 

Colonial  Building  192. 

Gov't  House  192. 

Harbor  189. 

Narrows  191. 

Roman-Catholic     Cathe- 
dral  192. 

Signal  Hill  193. 
St.  John's  Bay  804. 
St.  Jones  Harbor  209. 
St.  Joseph,  N.  B.  73. 
St.  Joseph  P.  Q.  282. 
St.  Laurent  290. 
St.  Lawrence  Bay  160. 
St.  Lawrence  River  246, 806 
St.  Leonard,  N.  B.  66. 
St.  Leon  Springs  808. 
St.  Lewis  Sound  226. 
St.  Louis  Isle  304. 


fit.  Lnee,  P.  Q.  S60. 
St.  Lunaire  221. 
St.  Margaret  Bivar  288. 
St.  Margaret's  Bay  219. 
St.  Maigaret's  Bay  126.  lU 
St.  Marguerite  River  806. 
St.  Martin,  P.  Q.  818. 
St.  Martin's,  N.  B.  71. 
St.  Mary's,  N.  B.  45. 
St.  Mary's,  N.  F.  218. 
St.  Mary's  Bay,  N  F.  218. 
St.  Mary's  Bay,  N.  S.  112. 
St.Mary'sBay.P.  B.I.  181. 
St.  Maurice  Biver  807. 
St.  Mattbieu  251. 
St.  Michael's  Bay  226. 
St.  Michel  264. 
St.  Modeste  296. 
St  Norbert806. 
St.  Octave,  P.  Q.  240. 
St.  Onisime,  P.  Q.  268. 
St.  Pacome,  P.  Q.  268. 
St.  Paschal  252. 
St.  Patrick's  Channel  167. 
St.  Paul's  Bay  292. 
St  Peter's,  C.  B.  146. 
St.  Peter's,  N.  B.  65. 
St.  Peter's,  P.  E.  1. 182. 
St.  Peter's  Bay  227. 
St.  Peter's  Inlet  166. 
St  Peter's  Id.  174. 
St.  Peter,  Lake  807. 
St.  Pierre  185, 214. 
St.  Pierre  d'Orleans  289. 
St.  Pierre  les  Becquets  807. 
St.  Placide,  P.  Q.  292. 
St.  Roch-des-Aulnaies  258. 
St.  Romuald,  P.  Q.  282. 
St.  Rose  de  Lima  818. 
St.  Shot's,  N.  F.  218. 
St.  Simeon,  295. 
St.  Simon  251. 
St.  Stephen,  N.  B.  85. 
St.  Sulpice,  P.  Q.  808. 
St.  Ther^se  318. 
St.  Thomas,  P.  Q.  268. 
St.  Tite  des  Caps  287* 
St.  Urbain  292. 
St.  YaUer,  P.  Q  254. 
St.  Vincent  de  Paul,  818. 
Sali8bury,N.  B.  72. 
SaJjnon  Cove  201. 
Salmonier,  N.  F.  218. 
Salmon  Biver  49,  71, 114. 
SaltMt.C.  B  167. 
Salutation  Point  174. 
Sambro  Id.  117. 
Sandwich  Bay  226. 
Sandwich  Head  227. 
Sandybeach  244. 
Sandy  Cove  116, 112. 
Sandy  Point  217. 
Sault  i  la  Puce  284. 
Sault  an  Coohon  291. 


INDEX. 


331 


18 
12. 
181. 


.67. 


307. 

258. 
L 


.8. 


.4. 


Baolt  au  Bceollet  818. 
8aultdeMoaton288. 
Scatari.  C  B.  160. 
Scboodic  Lakes  85. 
Scotchtown,  N  B.  48. 
Scotch  Village  88. 
Sculpin  Point  214. 
Seal  Cove,  N.  B  29. 
Seal  Cove,  N  F.  221. 
Sealld.  N.S.124. 
Seal  Ids.  225. 
Sea-Trout  Point  175. 
Sea-Wolf  Id.  169. 
S<>eley'8  Mills  71. 
Segum-Sega  Lakes  180. 
Seldom-come-by  210. 
Seven  Ids.  Lab.  282. 
Shag  Id.  280. 
Shawanegan  Falls  807. 
Shecatica  Bay  230. 
Shediac  59,  60,174. 
Sheet  Harbor  132. 
Shelbume,  N.  S.  121. 
Shepody  Bay  73. 
Shepody  Mt.  72. 
Bherbrooke  133, 182. 
Sberbrooke  Lake  90. 
Shinimicas,  N.  S  78. 
Ship  Harbor  132. 
Shippigan  Id.  63. 
Shoe  Cove  211, 221. 
Shubenacadie  82. 
Sillery,  P.  Q.  280. 
SUver  Falls,  N.  B.  22. 
Sir     Charles     Hamilton's 

Sound,   N  F.  203. 
Sissiboo  Palls  112. 
Skye  Glen  168. 
Smith's  Sound  209. 
Smoky,  Cape  159. 
Sorel,  P.  Q.  308. 
Souris,  P.  £.  I.  182. 
South  Bay,  N.  B.  40. 
South  Mt.  84. 
South  Oromocto  Lake  38. 
Southport,  F.  E  1. 177. 
South  Quebec  282. 
S.  W  Head  29. 
S.  W.  Miramichi  62. 
Spaniard's  Bay  207. 
Spear  Harbor  225. 
Spectacle  Id.  120. 
Spencer's  Id  103,104,106. 
Spencer  Wood  280. 
Bpiller  Rocks  202. 
Split,  Cape  104. 
Split  Rock,  31. 
Spotted  Id.  225. 
S(>out,  The  197. 
Spragg's  Point  42. 
Sprague's  Cove  29. 
Springfield,  N.  B.  42. 
Springfield,  N  S.  S9. 
Springhill,  N.  B.  51. 


Spring  mu,  N.  B.  80. 
Spruce  Id.  81 
Spruce  Lake  24. 
Spry  Bay  182. 
Stanley,  N.  B  60. 
Statue  Point  808. 
Steep  Creek  148. 
Stellarton,  N.  S.  186. 
Stewiacke  82. 
Stone  Pillar  268. 
Stormont,  N.  S.  188. 
Strait  of  Barra  164. 
Strait  of  Belle  Isle  220, 227 
Strait  of  Canso  142. 
Strait  of  Northumberland 

60, 174.  239 
Strait  Shore,  N.  F.  196. 
Sugar  Id  60,61. 
Sugar-Loaf,  N.  B.  68. 
Sugar-Loaf,  N.  F.  200, 217 
Summerside,  PEL  178. 
Suaacadie,  C.  B.  164. 
Sussex  Vale,  N.  B.  71. 
Swallow-Tail  Head  29. 
Sydney,  C.  B.  160. 
Sydney  Mines  152. 

Tableau,  Le  808. 
Table  Head  227. 
Table  Roulante  248. 
Tabusintac  61, 62. 
Tadou^ac,  P.  Q  299. 
Tangier,  N.  S  132 
Tannery  West  319. 
Tantramar  Marsh  79,  74. 
Tatamagouche,  N.  S.  81. 
Tea  Hill,  P.  E.  1. 177. 
Tedish,  N.  B.  59 
Temiscouata  Lake  58, 295. 
Temple  Bay,  Lab  227. 
Tennant's  Cove  42. 
Thoroughfare,  The  48. 
Three  Rivers  307. 
Three  Tides,  P.  B.  1. 174. 
Three  Towers,  N.  F.  211. 
Thrumcap  Shoal  98. 
Tickle  Cove  203 
Tidnish,  N.  S.  78. 
Tignish,  P.  E.  I  180. 
Tilt  Cove  206, 211. 
Tilton  Harbor  210. 
Toad  Cove  197. 
Tobique,  N.  B.  54. 
Tolt  Peak  217. 
Tomkedgwick  River  69. 
Topsail,  N.  K.  206- 
Torbay,  N.  F.  195,  200. 
Tor  Bay,  N.  S.  134. 
Tormentine,  Cape  174. 
Torrent  Point  227. 
Tracadie,  N  B.  62. 
Tracadie,  N.  S.  139. 
Tracadie,  P.  E.  1. 181. 
Tracadieg68h  67, 289. 


TneT*s  Lake  71. 
Tracy's  Mills,  88. 
TravexM,  Cape  174. 
Tremont,  N.  8.  89. 
Trepassey,  N.  F.  2181 
Trinity,  N.  F.  201. 
Trinity  Bay  208, 201. 
Trinity,  Cape  808. 
Trinity  Cove  160. 
Trois  Pistoles  261. 
Trois  Rivieres  807. 
Trou  St.  Patrice  290. 
Trouty,  N.  F.  210. 
Truro,  N.  S.  81. 
Tijon,  P.  £  1. 174. 
Tusket  Ids.  126. 115. 
Tusket  Lakes  116. 
Tweednogie,  C.  B.  148. 
Tweedside,  N.  B.  88. 
Twillingate,  N.  F.  206. 

Ungava  Bay  228. 
Upper  Caraquette  66. 
Upper  Gagetown  48. 
Upper  Muequodoboit  82. 
Upper  Queensbury  Bi, 
Upsalquitch  River  Gd. 
Utopia,  Lake  82. 

VanBuren,Me.  66. 
Vanceboro,  Me.  88. 
Varennes,  P.  Q.  808. 
Veasie,  Me.  89. 
Venison  Id.  225. 
Vernon  River  181. 
Victoria  53. 
Victoria  Line  168. 
Victoria  Mines  162. 
Virginia  Water  195. 

Wallace  Valley  80. 
Walrus  Id.  281. 
Walton  106, 93. 
Wapitaguu  Har.  280. 
Wapskehegan  River  54. 
Ward's  Harbor  211. 
Washademoak  Lake  47. 
Wash-shecootai  231 
Watagheistic  Sound  280 
Watchabaktchkt  164. 
Watt  June.  87. 
Waverley  Mines  82. 
Waweig,  N.  B.  86. 
Welchpool,N  B.  26. 
Wellington  179. 
Welsford,  N.  B.  88. 
Wentworth,  N  S.  80. 
West  Bay,  C.  B.  165. 
Westchester,  N.  S.  80. 
Westfield,  N.  B.  41. 
West  Isles  31. 
West  Point  179. 
West  Port,  N.  S.  117. 
West  River  225. 


3S2 


INDEX. 


W«jnofith,  N<  8. 112. 
Whale  C<r '(>  29. 
White  Bay  221. 
White  IlATon  184. 
White  Hone  81. 
White's  Cove  49. 
Whycoeomash,  G.  B.  167. 
Wickham,  42,  47. 
WIclclow,  N.  B.  68. 
Wiggins  Cove  49. 


WllUam  Henry  806. 
Wiloiot  Springs  89. 
Wilson's  Beach  26. 
Wilton  Qrove  210. 
WindM>r,  N.  8.  91, 101. 
WindKor  June.  82, 98. 
Windsor  Lake  196. 
Wine  Harbor  138. 
Wiseman's  Core  221. 


WItleM  Bay  Jl.  F.  197. 
Wolf  River  281. 
WolfWlle  107. 91. 
Wolves,  The  26, 81. 
Wood  Pillar  268. 
Woodstock  60, 87. 

Yarmouth,  N.  8. 114. 126. 
York  Riyer  174. 


Index  to  Historioal  and  Biognraphioal  Allniioni. 


Acadian  Exiles  108, 113, 131 
Annapolld  Ro.val,  N  8.  86. 
Anticoflti,  P.  Q.  284. 
Aukpaque,  N.  B.  46. 
AvaloD,  N.  F.  198. 
Bathurst,  N.  B.  65. 
Bay  BuUa.V.  P.  197. 
BayorOhaleur65. 
Beaubassin  and  Beauseionr 

78. 
BIc  Island,  P.  Q.  260. 
Bras  d  Or,  G.  B.  165. 
BrJbenf,  P^re  266. 
Brest,  Lab.  230. 
Campobello  Id.,  N.  B.  26. 
Canada,  Lower  285. 
Canada,  the  name  of  245. 
Canso,  N.  S.  144. 
Cape  Breton  149 
Cape  Breton  (old  ProTlnce) 

141. 
Cape  Broyle,  N.  F.  197. 
Cape  Ghatte,  P.  Q.  249. 
Cape  Despair,  P.  Q.  241. 
Gape  d'Or,  N.  S.  104. 
Cape  Sable,  N.  S.  123 
Gape  Sambro,  N.  S.  118. 
Garaquette,  N.  B.  66 
Carbo&ear,  N.  F.  208. 
Cartier's  Voyages  193,  204, 

245,272,293. 
Cangbnawaga,  P.  Q.  819. 
Cha'inplain,  Samuel  de  273. 
Gharlottetown,  P.  E.  1. 176. 
Chateau,  Lab.  227. 
Chateau  Bigot,  P.  Q.  280 
Ohlteau  Richer,  P.  Q  284. 
Chaumonot,  P^re  270. 
Chenetcook,  N.  S.  131. 
Chicoutimi,  P.  Q.  300. 
Clare  Settlements,  N.  S.  113. 
Conception  Bay,  N.  F.  206. 
Constitution  and  Quenriere 

200. 
Cdte  de  Be^uprS  276. 
D'Aolnay  and  La  Tour  19, 

87,  m. 


D'Avaugour,  Baron  246. 

Dawson,  Dr.  J.  W.  138. 

Dead  Islands,  N.  F.  216. 

Eastport,  Me-  27. 

Esquimaux,  the  228. 

Ferryland,  N.  F.  198. 

Fort  La  H  Jve,  N.  S.  119. 

Forts  Lawrence  and  Cum- 
berland 78. 

Fort  Mcductic,  N.  B.  62. 

Frcdcricton,  N.  B.  46. 

Frontcnac,  Count  de  262, 
273. 

aasp^,  P.  Q  244. 

Gilbert,  Sir  Humphrey  135, 
193. 

Olooscap  19,  41,  102,  106, 
120,  137,  144. 

Goat  Island,  N.  S.  86. 

Grand  Banks  199. 

Grand  Lake,  N.  B;  48. 

Grand  Manan  28. 

Grand  Pr6,  N.  S.  108. 

Guysborough,  N.  S.  134. 

Haliburton,  Judge  92. 

Halifax,  N.  S.  99. 

Huron  Indians  279,  289. 

Indian  Lorette  279. 

Ingonish,  C.  B.  159. 

isle  aux  Coudres  293. 

Isle  of  Orleans  288. 

Jemseg,  N.  B.  42. 

Jesuits,  the  261,  266,  275, 
281  ' 

King's  Golloge  92. 

Labrador  222,  223- 

Lachine,  P.  Q.  319. 

Lake  St.  John,  P.  Q.  801. 

Lake  Utopia,  N.  B.  32. 

Liverpool,  N.  S.  120. 

Lord's.Day  Gale  170,  153, 
186. 

Louisbourg,  G.  B.  164, 149. 

Lunenburg,  N.  S.  118. 

Madawaska,  N.  B.  67. 

Magdalen  Islands  18i4. 

Mahone  Bay,  N.  8. 128. 


Maugerville.  N.  B.  48. 
Micmae  Indians  68f  147,168, 

244. 
MinganIdB.,Lab.  281. 
Miramicbi  District  68. 
MiscouId.,N.B.  64. 
Montreal,  P.  Q.  817. 
Moravian  Missions  226. 
Murray  Bay,  P.  Q.  296. 
New  Brunswick  14. 
Newfoundland  187, 201, 202, 

204.222. 
Norsemen ,  the  128, 204, 246. 
Nova  Scotia  76. 
Oromocto,  N  B.  43. 
Passamoquoddy  Bay  27. 
Penobscot  Indians  39. 
Perc;,  P.  Q.  243. 
Pictou,  N.  S.  137. 
Placentia,  N.  F.  212. 
Pleasant  Point,  Me.  27. 
Port  I^atour,  N.  8. 122. 
Port  Mouton,  N  8. 121. 
Prince  Edward  Island  172. 
Quebec  272. 

Red  Indians  210, 218.      . 
Restigouche  69. 
Richibucto  Indians  60. 
Rividre  du  Loup  296. 
Riviere  Ouelte  262. 
Roberviils,  the  301. 
Robin  &  Co.  240. 
Sable  Island  136. 
Saguenay  River  298- 
St.  Anne  de  Beaupr^  286. 
St.  Anne's  Bay,  C.  B  168. 
St.  Augustin,  P.  Q.  806. 
St.  Croix  Island  34. 
St.  Joachim,  P.  Q.  287. 
St.  John,  N.  B.  19. 
St.  John  River  40. 
St.  John's,  N.  F.  193. 
St.  Mary's  Bay  112. 
St.  Paul's  Bay  292. 
St.  Paul's  Island  160. 
St.  Peter's,  G.  B.  146. 
St.  Pierre,  Miq.  186. 


INDEX. 


26. 


Bcottiab  Mi^mtloii  104. 
Sillery,  P.  Q  z81. 
Sorel,  P.  Q.  308. 
Strait  of  Belle  Iste  220. 
Sydney,  C  B  161. 
Sydney  C!oal-Minee  158. 


TadoniM,  P.  Q.  m^, 
Tilbunf,  Wreck  of  the  148. 
Trepaseey,  N.  F  213 
Trois  Pifltoles,  P.  Q.  261. 
Truro,  N.  8.  81. 
Unulines  of  Quebec  266. 


Index  to  Qnotationi. 


WaDMT'e  Expedition 

241. 
WalUs.AdmlnllOO. 
Williams,  Gen.  100. 
Windsor,  N  S.  92. 
Yarmotttb,  N.  8. 114. 


333 


168, 


202, 
246. 

r. 


L72. 


J5. 

158. 

J. 


Alezaoder,  Sir  J.  E.  88, 68. 

Baillie,  T.  48. 

Ballantyne,  R.  M.  292. 

Beecher,  Henry  Ward  268. 

Boucher  2d2. 

Bouchette,  R.  247,  278. 

BougiiDTille  288. 

Bonnycastle,  Sir  R.  67, 1%,  218. 

Brown,  Richard  141,  154,  165,  167,  169, 

166,233. 
Buies,  Arthur  240, 243,  244,  248, 260. 
Cartier,  Jacques  204,  246, 288,  298. 
Champlain  124, 273,  295. 
Charlevoix  30. 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, 

288,247,289,293,299,800. 
Coaens,  F.  3.  92,  96,  100,  111,  181,  140, 

142, 147, 166. 
Gr^mazie.  0. 247. 
DawBon,  J.  W.  102, 142. 
De  Costa,  B.  F.  28,  29, 80. 
De  Millc.  Prof  105. 
Dilke,  Sir  Charles  258, 269. 
Dufforin,  Lord  237. 
Ferland,  Ahh6  282,  248, 28a 
Fiset,  L  J.  C  247. 
Gesner,  Dr.  A.  B.  32,  36,  48,  66. 
Oilpin,  Dr.  134. 
Gordon,  Hon.  Arthur  61,  62,  63,  66, 66, 

62,  67. 
Grey  247. 

Haliburton,  Judge  90, 91, 109,  111,  113. 
HaUock,  Charles  67,  78. 103, 126, 127, 128, 

129, 130. 169, 170, 225, 227, 240,  801. 
nomilton,  88. 
Hardy,  Capt.  129, 190, 131. 
Hawkins's  Quebec  266,  259, 261, 272. 
Hcriot,  George  279,  284. 
Hind,  Prof.  282,233. 
Howells,  W.  D.  260,  268,  276,  278,  280, 

281  SC  908 
Imray's'&Ml/WjDirect/ona  73, 158,169,248. 
Johnston,  ProC  J.  F.  W.  23,  31,  45,  57, 

71, 117. 
Jukes,  Prof.  J.  B.  189, 196, 196, 216, 218. 
E<Um  805. 
Kirke,  Henry  246. 
La  Hontan,  Baron  87, 212, 806. 
Lalenumt,  Pire  248. 


Lanman,  Charles  68. 
Le  Moine,  J.  M.  258, 264, 280,  SM. 
Lescarbot,  M.  84,  85, 86, 201. 
London  Times  257,  298,  804. 
Longfellow,  U.  W.  109, 110,  UL  lia 
Lowell,  R.  T.  S.  187. 
McCrea,  Lt.-Col.  198. 196, 197. 
Mamiier,  X.  257. 
Marshall,  C.  278,  286. 
Martin,  M.  154. 

M'Gregor,  John  19, 42, 117, 128, 166. 
Bloore,  Tom  184.  320. 
Moorson,  Capt.  116, 118, 122. 
Murdoch,  B.  75, 109, 122, 166. 166. 
Noble,  Rev.  L.  L.  30,  91,  108,  141,  160, 
189, 198, 196, 204,  219, 221, 228,  2M, 

Novus  Orbis  125. 

Parkman,  Francis  287, 245, 262, 266, 276, 

279,285,288. 
Perley,  M.  H.  182. 
Rameau.  M.  288, 277. 
Roosevelt,  R.  B.  66. 
Routhier,  A.  B.  252. 
Sagas  of  Iceland  123,  204. 
Sand,  Maurice  186,  256. 
Scott,  Q.  C.  8,  86,  200. 
Shirley,  Gov.  274. 
Silliman,  Prof  288. 267, 267, 277. 
Stedman,  R.  H.  170. 
Strauss,  281 

Sutherland,  Rev.  George  178, 180. 
Tach^  251.  299. 
Taylor's   Canadian  Handbook  242,  248. 

251, 282,  819. 
Taylor,  Bayard  277,  291,  292,  288,  297, 

804. 
Thoreau,  H.  D.  237,  288,  246,  267,  287, 

276, 277, 288, 284, 287, 809, 312. 
Trudelle  292. 
Voltaire  274. 

n^arburton,  Eliot  190, 195,  234.  266. 
Wampr,  Charlen  Dndlev,  20,  26,  26,  84, 

86,  91, 92, 95, 107, 188, 140, 158, 162, 

165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. 
Whitbume,  Capt.  187. 
White,  John,  278,  296, 808. 
Whittier,  John  G.  21, 66, 209, 224, 280^ 


334 


INDEX. 


Index  to  Sailwayi  and  Stttmboat  Ubm. 


laiopaaB  and  North  American  87* 

Orand  Trunk  806. 

Intercolonial  70,  78. 

New  Brunswick  49. 

New  Bnuuwiok  and  Canada  88. 


Baidn  of  Minas  101. 
Bras  d'Or,  161. 
Conception  Bay  (N.  F.)  206. 
Eastport  25. 
Grand  Lake  48.  . 
Halifox  to  Sydney  148. 
Labrador  224. 
Magdalen  Islands  188. 
Molsic  River  (Labrador)  229. 
Newfoundland  188, 148. 
Northern  Coastal  (N.  F.)  200. 
North  Shore  (N.B.)  60. 


Piotou  Branch  186. 

Prince  Edward  Island  177, 180, 182. 

Quebec  and  Ooeford  266.  • 

Hhediac  Branch  69. 

Windsor  and  Annapolis  88. 


Passamaquoddy  Bay  26,  80. 
Prince  Edward  Island  li4, 176. 
Quebec  and  Gulf  Ports  288, 60. 
Quebec  to  Cacouna  291. 
Richelieu  (St.  LAwrence)  806. 
Sagucnay  River  291,  297. 
St.  John  River  89,  51,  68. 
St.  Pierre  (Miq.)  185. 
Union  (St.  Lawrence^  306« 
Washademoak  Lake  47. 
Western  Outports  213. 
Yarmouth  and  Ualiiax  117. 


Aiith9ritiei  Consnlted  in  the  Preparation  of  this  Volnme. 

The  Editor  acknowledges  his  obligations  to  the  officers  of  the  Boston  Atbenasum, 
the  Parliament  Library  at  Halifax,  the  Colonial  Library  at  Charlottctown,  the  Me- 
ohanics'  Institute  at  St.  John,  and  the  libraries  of  Parliament,  of  the  Laval  Uni- 
Tersity,  of  the  Institut  Canadieu,  and  of  tlie  Literary  and  Historical  Society,  of 
Quebec. 

New  Brunswick,  with  Notes  for  Emigrants ;  by  Abraham  Gesner,  M.  D.    (1847.) 

Geology  of  New  Brunswick,  etc. ;  by  Dr.  Gesner. 

New  Brunswick  and  its  Scenery ;  by  Jno.  R.  Hamilton.    (St.  John,  1874.) 

Account  of  New  Brunswick ;  by  Thomas  Baillie.    (London.  1882. ) 

Handbook  for  Emigrants  to  New  Brunswick ;  by  M.  H.  Perley.    (St.  John,  1864.) 

Mount  Desert ;  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.    (New  York.) 

History  of  New  Brunswick ;  by  Cooney. 

Nouveau  Brunswick ;  by  E.  Begnault.    (Paris.) 

History  of  Maine ;  by  James  Sullivan,  LL.  D.    (1796.) 
History  of  Maine ;  by  W.  D.  Williamson.    (2  vJs. ;  1889.) 
Transactions  of  the  Maine  Historical  Society. 

Letters  from  Nova  Scotia ;  by  Captain  Moorson.    (London,  1880.) 

Travelfl  in  Nova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick ;  by  J.  S.  Bucldngham,  M.  P. 

Forest  Life  in  Acadie;  by  Capt.  Campbell  Hardy.    (London.) 

The  Fidhing  Tourist ;  by  Charles  Hallock.    (New  York,  1878.) 

Acadia ;  or  A  Month  among  the  Bluenoses :  by  Frederick  S.  Coneni.   (New  Toik. 

1869.) 
The  Neutral  French ;  a  Story  of  Nova  Scotia. 
The  Lily  and  the  Cross ;  by  Prof.  Do  Mille. 
The  Boys  of  Grand  Pre  School ;  by  Prof.  De  Mille. 
The  Clock-Miiker ;  by  Judge  T.  C.  Haliburton. 
The  Old  Judge ;  by  Judge  T.  C.  Haliburton. 

The  Pre-Columbian  Discovery  of  America ;  by  B.  F.  De  Costa.    (New  York.) 
Acadian  Geology  ;  by  J.  W.  Dawoon,  LL.  D.,  F.  B.  S.    (Halifox.  1866.) 
On  the  Mineralogy  and  Geology  of  Nova  Scotia ;  by  Dr.  A.  Gesner. 
An  Historical  and  Statistical  Account  of  Nova  Scotia ;  by  T.  C.  Haliburton,  D.  0.  L., 

M.  P.    (2  vols. ;  Halifax,  18*29) 
History  of  Nova  Scotia,  or  Acadie;  by  Beamish  Murdoch,  Q.  0.   (8 Toli. ;  HaliikZf 

1866.) 
A  General  Description  of  Nova  Scotia.    (Halifkx,  1828.) 
Account  of  the  Present  State  of  Nova  Scotia.    (Edinburgh,  1786.) 


INDEX. 


335 


A  mitorjr  of  the  Iiland  of  Cap«  Brwton ;  by  Riehard  Brown,  f .  0. 8.,  f .  R.  Q.  8. 

(London,  1869.) 
Importance  and  Advantacrea  of  Oap«  Breton ;  by  Wm.  Bollan.    (London,  1746.) 
Lattera  on  Cap«  Brt'on  ;  by  Thomaa  Pichon.    (London,  1700.) 
Baddeek,  and  that  Sort  of  Thing ;  by  Oharles  Dudley  Warter.    (Boaton,  1871) 

Prince  Edward  laland  ;  by  Rer.  Ocnrge  Sutherland.    (Charlottetown,  1861.) 
Prontsa  and  Prospeota  of  Prince  Edward  Island ;  by  G.  B.  Bagatar.  (CharlottatowBi 

i86l . ) 
Tmyela  In  Prince  Edward  laland ;  by  Walter  Johnstone.    (Edinburgh,  1824.) 

A  Concise  Hiatory  of  Newfoundland ;  by  F.  R.  Page.    (London,  1860.) 

History  of  the  OoTernment  of  Newfoundland ;  by  Chief  Justice  John  Eeere.    (Laai> 

don,  1798) 
Catechism  of  the  History  of  Newfoundland ;  by  W.  0.  St.  John.   (Boston,  1866.) 
Pedley*8  Hiatory  of  Newfoundland. 
Anspaeh's  Hiatory  of  Newfoundland. 

Newfoundland  in  1842  ;  by  Sir  R  H.  Bonnycastle.    (2  Tols. ;  London,  1842.) 
Toyage  of  H.  M.  8.  Rosamond;  by  Lieut.  Chappell,  R.  N.    (London,  1818.) 
Lost  amid  the  Forh;  by  Lieut.-Col.  McCrea,  Royal  Artillery.    (London,  1869.) 
The  New  Priest  of  Conception  Bay  ;  by  R.  T.  S.  Lowell.    (Boston,  1888. ) 
Excursions  in  and  about  Newfoundland  by  Prof.  J.  B.  Jukes.    (2  Tols. :  London. 

1842.) 
Oeoloe^al  Surrey  of  Newfoundland  for  1873 ;  by  Alex.  Murray,  P.  0.  S.  (St.  John'a, 

1874.) 
After  Iceberga  with  a  Painter ;  by  Rev.  L.  L.  Noble.    (New  York,  1860.) 

A  Toyage  to  Labrador ;  by  L'Abb^  Ferland.    (Quebec.) 

Notes  on  the  Coaat  of  Labrador ;  by  Robertson.    (Quebec.) 

Explorations  in  the  Interior  of  the  Labrador  Peninsula ;  by  Prof.  H.  T.  Hind,  V.  B. 

O.  S.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1863.) 
Sixteen  Years'  Residence  on  the  Coast  of  Labrador;  by  George  Cartwright.  (StoIb.  ; 

Newark,  1792.) 
A  Summer  Cruise  to  Labrador :  by  Charlea  Hallock.    In  Harper's  Magaaina,  YoL 

XXU. 

History  and  General  Description  of  New  France ;  by  Father  P.  F.  X.  (HiarleToix.  (6 

Tols. ;  in  Shea's  translation  ;  New  York,  1872.) 
Histoire  de  la  NouTelle  France ;  by  Marc  Leacarbot.    (1609 ;  Paris,  1866 ;  8  Tola.) 
CouTs  d'Histoire  du  Canada ;  by  L'Abbd  Feiiand. 
Histoire  de  la  Colonic  Francaise  en  Canada ;  by  M.  Faillon.  (8  Tola. }  Yille-Marie  [HoQ« 

treall,  1865-6). 
History  of  Canada ;  by  F.  X.  Gameau.    (Bell's  translation  ;  Montreal,  1866.) 
History  of  Canada ;  by  John  MacMuUen.    (BrockTille,  1868.) 
NoTus  Orbis ;  by  Johannes  de  Laet.    (Leyden,  1688.) 
Les  Relations  des  Jesuits. 

Lower  Canada;  by* Joseph  Bouchette.    (London,  1816.) 

British  Dominions  in  North  America ;  by  Joseph  Bouchette.  (2toI8.  ;  London,  1882.) 
British  America ;  by  John  M'Gregor.    (2  Tols. ;  London,  1882.) 
La  France  aux  Colonies  ;  by  M  Rameau.    (Paris,  1869.) 
Le  Canada  au  Point  de  Yue  Economique ;  by  Louis  Strauss.    (Paris,  1867.) 
Hochelaga,  or  England  in  the  New  World ;  by  Eliot  Warburton.  (2  vols. ;  NewTwrk, 

LS46.) 
The  Conquest  of  Canada;  by  Eliot  Warburton.    (2  toIs.  ;  London,  1849.) 
The  First  English  Conquest  of  Canada  ;  by  Henry  Kirke.    (London,  1871.) 
The  Pioneers  of  France  in  the  New  World ;  by  Francis  Parkman.    (Boaton,  1866.) 
The  .Tesuits  of  North  America ;  by  Francis  Parkman. 
The  Old  Regime  in  Canada ;  by  Francis  Parkman.   (Boaton,  1874.) 
Histoire  du  0»  lada ;  b}  Gabriel  Sagard.    (4  vols  :  Pails,  1866  ) 
Sketches  of  Celebrated    anadians  ;  by  Henry  J.  Morgan.    (Montreal,  1866.) 
Hawkins's  New  Pinfur*  of  Quebec.    (Quebec,  1884) 
Reminiscences  of  Quebec.    (Quebec,  1868.) 

D^couTerte  du  Tombeau  de  Cbamplain ;  by  LaTerdi^  andCasgraln.  (Qnabao,  1800.) 
Mapla  LeaTes ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Mdne.    (Quebec.) 


336 


INDEX. 


L»ttnfl  iiir  TAmeriqu* ;  by  X.  Maimier.    (Paris.) 

Account  of  a  Journey  between  Hartford  and  Quebec ;  by  Prof.  B.  WlHBMin.    (1820.) 

Taylor's  Canadian  Handbook.    (Montreal.) 

English  America;  by  S.  P.  Day.    (2  vols  ;  London,  1864.) 

Three  Years  in  Canada ;  by  John  MacTaggart.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1829.) 

Western  Wanderings ;  by  W.  H.  O.  Kingitton.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1866.) 

Sketches  of  Lower  Canada :  by  Joseph  Sanson.    (New  York,  1817.) 

The  Canadian  Dominion  ;  oy  Charles  Blarshall.    (London,  1871.) 

Five  Years'  Residence  in  the  Canadas ;  by  J<.  A.  Talbot.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1824.) 

Sketches  from  America ;  by  John  Wliite.    (London,  1870.) 

Travels  through  the  Canadas ;  by  George  Heriot.    (Loadon,  1807.) 

British  Possessions ;  by  M.  Smith.    (Baltimore,  1814.) 

Adventures  in  the  Wilds  of  America :  by  Charles  Lanxnan.    (2  vols. :  Philadelphia, 

1856.) 
Pine-Forests ;  by  Lieut  -Col.  Sleigh.     (London,  1858.) 
The  travels  of  Ifoll,  Lyell,  Trollope,  Dickens,  Johnston,  etc. 
Bref  Recitet  Succincte  Narration  de  la  Navigation  faite  en  MDXXXY.  et  MDXXXYL 

par  le  Capitaine  Jacques  Cartier.     (Paris,  1863  ) 
The  Principal  Navigations,  Voyages,  etc.,  of  the  English  Nation ;  by  Richard  Hak- 

luyt.    (1589-1600.) 
Les  Yovages  i,  la  Nouvelle  France,  etc. ;  by  Samuel  de  Champlain.    (1682 ;  Paris, 

1830.) 
Relation  d<i  Voyage  au  Port  Royal ;  by  M.  Di6reville.    (Amsterdam.  1710.) 
Nouveauz  Voyages,  etc. ;  by  the  Baron  La  Hontan.    (1708 ;  London,  1785  ) 
Relatiofi  Originale  du  Voyage  de  Jacques  Cartier.    (Paris,  1867.) 
Memoires,  Relations,  et  Voyages  de  D^ouverte  au  Canada.    (Quebec,  1888.) 
Voyage  to  Grenada ;  by  Father  Charlevoix.     (London,  1768  ) 
Six  Mille  Lieues  i  Toute  Vapeur ;  by  Maurice  Sand.    (Paris.) 
Greater  Britain  ;  by  Sir  Charles  Dilke. 
The  Hudi^on's  Bay  Company  ;  by  R.  M.  Ballantyne. 
Imray's  Sailing  Directions.    (London  ) 

Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Const  of  Oaspe  ;  by  L'Abbi  Ferland.    (Qnebec.) 
The  Lower  St.  Lawrence  ;  by  Dr.  W.  J.  Anderson.     (Quebec,  1872.) 
Le  Chercheur  de  Tr^sors ;  by  Ph.  Aubert  de  Gasp«  flis.    (Quebec,  1868.) 
Chroniques  Humeurs  et  Caprices  ;  by  Arthur  Buies.    (Quebec,  1873  ) 
Les  Anciens  Canadiens ;  by  Philippe  Aubert  de  Gapp6.    (Quebec,  1864.) 
L'Album  du  Touriste ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Moine.     (Quebec,  1872.)  ^, 
The  Blockade  of  Quebec:  by  Dr.  W.  J.  Anderson.    (Quebe<!^872.) 
Journal  of  the  Siege  of  Quebec  ;  by  Gen.  James  Murray     (Quebec,  1871.) 
The  Expedition  against  Quebec :  by  "  A  Volunteer."    (Quebec,  1872.) 
Chateau  Bigot ;  by  J.  M.  Le  Mome.     (Quebec,  1874.) 
A  Chance  Acquaintance ;  by  W.  D.  Howells.    (Boston,  1873.) 
A  Yankee  in  Canada ;  by  Henry  D.  Thoreau.    (Boston,  18(ffi.) 
La  Litt<irature  Canadienne.    (2  vols. ;  Quebec,  1868-4.) 
Soirees  Canadiennes.    (2  vols  ;  Quebec,  1861.) 
Travels  in  New  Brunswick;  by  Hon.  Arthur  Gordon.    (In  Vacation  TcntriMts  for 

1862 -8v  London.) 
Field  and  Forest  Rambles :  by  A.  Leith  /dams.     (London,  1873.) 
L'Acadie,  or  Seven  Year^'  Explorations  in  British  North  America ;  by  Sir  JamM 

E.Alexander.    (2  vols. ;  London,  1849.) 
Game-Fi.sh  of  the  North  and  the  British  Provinces ;  by  R.  B.  Roosevelt    (New 

York,  1865 ) 
Fishing  in  American  Waters  ;  by  Genio  C.  Scott.    (New  York.) 
The  American  Angler's  Guide;  by  Norris.    (New  York.) 
Fish  and  Fishing ;  by  H.  W.  Herbert  ("  Frank  Forrester  ").    (New  York,  I860.) 
The  Fishing  Tourist ;  by  Charles  Hallock.    (New  York,  1873) 
Les  Muses  de  la  Nouvelle  France  ;  by  Marc  Lescarbot.    (Paris,  1609.) 
Evangeline,  a  Tale  of  Acadie ;  by  Henry  W.  Longfellow.    (Boston,  1847.) 
The  Poetical  Works  of  John  G.  Whittier.     (Boston.) 
The  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Saguenay  ;  by  Ctiarles  Sangster    (Kingston. ) 
Essais  Po^tiques  ;  by  Leon  Pamphile  Le  May.    (Quebec,  1866.) 
Mes  Loisirs  ;  by  Louis  Honorc  Frechette.    (Quebec.) 
The  Poetical  Works  of  0.  Cr6mazie,  J.  Lenoir,  and  L.  J.  0.  Fiaet.    (Quebao.) 


tf    J' 


ji  Camp  Street,  New  Orleans,  La.; 

Ilia 


^'j'-  '^ 


THE  STEAMERS  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCl 


FROM   QUEBEC,  OVER 


STEAM  m 

THE   ROUT 


LEVE  &  ALDEN,  TOURIST  AGENTS,  207  Broadway  &  5  Union  Square  (Brentano's),  New  York 
321  Euclid  Avenue,  Cleveland,  Ohio;  114  Washington  Street,  Chicago, p.;  131  Yine  Street,  Cincir 
136  St.  James  Street,  Montreal,  Can.;  28  St.  Louis  Street,  Quebec,  Caiada. 


■^Hfm^ 


m*^'-" 


EAM  NAVIGATION  CO.,  m™  four  trips  weekly 

liE   ROUTE   TRACED  ON   THIS   MAP. 


iisrFoisiiMi.A.i'ioiT    -A.n=»Xj"2r    to 


Irentano's),  New  York;  296  Washington  Street,  Boston;  N.  E.  comer  Broad  &  Chestnut  Streets,  Philadelphia; 
31  Yine  Street,  Cincinnati,  Ohio;  114  North  Fourth  Street,  St  Louis,  Mo.;  19  Camp  Street,  New  Orleans,  La.; 


ST. 
TRAi 


■  '-Si 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX  TO  ADVERTISEMENTS.  - 

I 

f  ■ 

PAOR 

BOSTON  AKB  MAINE  RAILROAD fiftcing  tltlepage 

BOSTON,   HALIFAX,  AND   PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND  STEAM- 
SHIP LINE         . 9 

COOK  &  SON,  THOMAS ''.       ^       .       .       .       .      2 

EASTERN  RAILROAD front  cover  Uninf 

EASTERN  SEA-COAST  ROUTE        •       •       • 3^ 

INTERNATIONAL  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY 3 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  &  CO back  eoT«r  lining 

LEYE  &  ALDEN       ............    10 

MYRTLE  HOUSE    . « 

OSGOOD'S  AMERICAN  GTHDE-BOOES    .       .       .       .       .       .       .     4 

OSGOOD'S  COMPLETE  POCKET-GUIDE  TO  EUROPE  ...         8 

4*RINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY       ...      6 

QUEBEC  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY  ........        4 

ST.  JOHN  AND  MAINE  RAILWAY .       .       .       .       ....       .     « 

9T.  LOUIS  HOTEL       .... 7 

TRAVEL,  NEW  BOOKS  OF  .       .      .      .      .      .         bade  coTor  lining 


THoa  COOK  &  son. 

Tourist  and  Excursion  Agents 


!    I 


CE8TABLI8HED    1841), 


niliof  nfflVtOa  '  I  *«^  BROADWAY,   NEW  YORK, 

UliiOl    UliiVDD       •       •       I  I.UDOATE   CIBCUS,  I.0ND01f. 

KEW   ENGLAND   OFFICE: 

197  Washington  Street ,    Boston. 


^im 


TOURIST  AND  EXCURSION  TICKETS 


BY  ALL  CHIEF  LmES 


TO  ALL  PLACES  OF  TOURIST  RESOUT 


NEW  ENGLAND 
MARITIME    PROVINCES, 

Issued  espeeially  for  Pleasure  Travel,  allowing  breaks  in 
tbe  journey,  and  in  many   cases  at 


HEBUCEB    BATES. 


Full  partioulars  on  ai>plication.      Address  as  above. 


nts 


roKK* 


ICET8 


tOUT 


ES, 


Lrealcs  io, 


I 


above. 


CO. 


OCEAN  DAY  ROUTE  TO  PORTLAND.    " 

OM-eataUlahed  Line  oTSteHDen  betweoi 

Boston,  Portland,  Eastport,  and  St.  John,  N.  B.,    ^ 

With  Conneetloiu  to 


OALAIS,M£.,OAHPOB£LLO,N.R,HALIFAX,N.S^ 

CHARLOTTETOWN,  p.  E.  I., 

And  aU  Parts  <tf  the 
MARITIME   PBOYDfCES  OF  THE  DOMINION  OF  CANADA. 

The  Favorite  and  Superior  Sea-going  Steamen  of  ibis  Linflb 
STATE  OP  MAINE  (NEW).  1,500  ix>N& 
FALMOUTH,  moo  tons.. 

CITY  OF  PORTLAND,  moo  tons, 

I^aye  th«  end  of  Ooinmerulal  Wh*rf.  Bostok,  at  8J0  a.  m.  and  BaUroad  Whui; 
PoBTLAHDiat 6.00 p. M. for EASTPOBT and  ST.  JOHN,  with u«aal eonneetioni, erMf- 
MoNDAT,  WBDxasDAT,  and  Wkidat,  tot  the  season,  with  mora  ftcqne&t  tvlpain  Jnlf, 
Aaenst,  and  September.   CSee  July  Folder  for  partlcnlars..! 

The  Homing  and  Noon  Trains  of  the  Eastern  and  Boston  A  Haine  BaUroad*  eonnaet 
with  Steamers  at  PortlaDd. 

BETUBNIK0,  A  BTBAMBU  WILZ  JLEAVB 

Sti  John  at  8.00  A.  M.  and  Eastport  at  LOG  P.  VL 

BAMB.  DATS. 

For  fliriher  information  apidj  at  the  Company's  and  Agents'  OlBeea,  oroSGlnlaai 
board  thb  Steamers,  where 

THROUGH    TICKBTS    AND    STATEBOOM8 

Can  be  secnred. 

COMPANY'S   OFFICE. 
40  EXCHANGE  STREtT,   PORTLAND,  MAINE. 

T.  C.  BBBSET,  Prealdent  and  Maaager.       H.  J.  IJBBT,  Tre—wn. 
CAPT.  J.  B.  COTIiE,  EngiiMer-in-Clil«ft 

LOCAL   OFFICES. 

BOSTON,  End  of  Commercial  Wharf ;  W.  H.  KILBT,  Agent. 
ST.  JOHN,  N.  B ,  Rced*8  Point  Wharf ;  H.  W.  CHISHOLM,  Afsnt 
EASTPORT,  MB.,  International  Wharf;  GEO.  HATES,  Agent. 
PORTLAND,  MB ,  Railroad  Wharf ;  H.  P.  0.  HBB8ET,  Afwt. 

V.  L.  LIAVITT,  Tmv«lllfiB  Agsnt. 


'-1 


.<>^ 


' 


ii^ 


QUEBEC  STEAMSHIP  COMPANY. 

Bormada,  Wot  India  and  St.  lAwrence  Steamship  lines* 
9TBAMBRS  LBAVB  NEW  YORK  PROM  PIBR  47,  NORTH  RIVER, 


Bmj  llteniAte  Thursday  at  3  F.  M.  In  April,  Kay  and  June  Every  Thnndaji 

m  8T.  Um  ANmDA.  DOIINICA,  lARTINHlUE,  ST.  IDCIA,  Bil  KBADOS 

AND  TRINIDAD  EVERY  SEVENTEEN  DAYS. 

Ooonections  by  Steamer  with  the  other  West  India  lalands,  Demeraia  and 

Venexuela. 
t    Daring  the  Season  of  Navigation  Steamers  leave  Montreal  and  Qnebeo 

FOR   FATHER  POINT,  METIS,  GASPE,  PERCE, 

8UMMEB8IBE  and  CHABLOTTETOWN,  P.  E.  I.,  and  PICTOV,  H.  8. 

Connecting  with  Steamers  and  Railroads  for  all  parts  of 

The  BRITISH  PROVINCES  and  UNITED  STATES. 

'  At  Picton  with  Bailway  for  HALIFAX,  thence  by  Cromwell  Line  of 

Steamers  for  New  York  or  Newfoundland. 

TICKETS  FOB  SAI.E  at  all  the  Principal  Ticket  Offices  in  the  United 
States  alid  Canada ;  at  Leve  &  Aldem's  Offices,  207  Broadway,  N.  T. ;  Cor. 
Broad  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  Philadelphia;  16  State  St.,  Boston;  Chicago  and 
MontrML 
A>  JB,  Oui«rhridge  A  Co,,  Agenta,  W,  Moore,  Manager* 

51    Broadway,  New  York. 


AMERICAN  GUIDE-BOOKS. 

•aUia  CTCiTtlilag  which  the  trmTellcr  wnU  «•  ka*w,  !■  pnckcly  tk«  thifr  ht 
waato  to  have  It."— Bwtoa  Joarnal. 

The  best  companions  for  all  travellers  who  wish  to  get  the  largest  possMe  atnotmt  of 
informatioH  a$ut  pleasure  out  of  a  summer  journey. 

Arranged  on  the  celebrated  Baedeker  Plan,  indorsed  by  all  European  travellers. 
The  Histonr,  Poetry,  and  Le^nds  of  each  locality,  tersely  and  clearly  given. 
Scores  of  Maps,  City  Plans,  and  Panoramas. 

Giving  Prices  and  Liocations  of  all  Hotels  and  Boarding-Houses,  Summer-BeForts, 
and  Routes. 


NEW  en^:lax«i>. 


MARITIME  PBOYIKCES. 


MIDDLE  STATES.  WHIT^  MOUNTAINS. 

400  to  600  pages  each.    Bound  in  flexible  tH  cloth.    Scores  of  maps.    $1.50  each. 

"  We  have  not  only  read  these  books  with  delight  and  studied  them  with  profit  in 
the  seclusion  of  the  library,  but  we  have  travelled  with  them  and  by  them  on  the  sea 
and  land.  At  every  point  they  meet  you  with  jost  the  facts  you  wish  to  know ;  they 
rspeat  to  you  the  old  legend  associated  with  this  locality ;  they  tell  .1  on  the  story  of  the 
bakj^  fbught  there ;  thev  hum  to  you  the  song,  or  murmur  the  lines  in  which  some  poet 
has  enshiined  events  b>  which  a  spot  has  become  memorable.  A  condensed  literature 
ef  great  variety  and  richness  is  stored  up  within  their  pages.  They  are  simply  indisnen* 
sable  to  tourists  in  the  regions  named,  and  those  who  have  sallied  forth  wittiout  them 
have  omitted  the  really  most  important  part  of  thdr  equipment."— Ltferary  World. 

JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  &  CO..  BOSTON. 


Y. 

/BR. 

iday. 


St.  John  and  Main'^  Railway. 


L«  and 

«e 

RCE, 

H.8. 

TES. 

land. 

)  United 
Y. ;  Oor. 
;ago  and 

anagetm 


imotmt  of 

elleTS. 
en. 

r-Beforts, 
lES. 

L.50  eaeb. 

^h  profit  in 
]on  the  eea 
;  tbey 
ptoryofthe 
i  some  poet 
lUtentare 
rindispen- 
jout  uiem 


THE    ONliT 

ALIi   RAIZi  XiIZfB 

A 

Between  the 

MARITIME      PROVINCES 

And  the    ^ 

UNITED     STATES, 

Venning,  with  its  Connections,  the  Most  Direct  Route  between  the 

EASTERN  AND  SOUTHERN  STATES 

And 

ST.  JOHN,  HALIFAX,  AND  PRINCE  EDWARD  ISLAND. 

Connecting  at  St.  John  with  the  Intercolonial  Railway  and  Bay 
of  Fundy  Steamers.  Also  with  Steamers  of  the  Biver  St.  John  for 
Fredeiicton. 

fivo  Trains  Dally  between  8t.  John  and  Boston. 

Commencing  June  18th,  1883,  a  Fast  Express  Train, 

During  the  Summer  Season, 

will  leave  St  John  at  7  a.  m.  and  arrive  in  Boston  the  same  day 
at  10  p.  M.,  in  time  to  connect  with  the  train  for  New  York,  and  a 
similar  train  will  leave  Boston  at  12.80  p.  h.,  arriving  at  St.  John  at 
6.30  A.  M.  the  following  day. 

Parlor  Cars  with  Horton  Beclining  Chairs  will  be  run  through  on 
these  trains. 
Pullman  Sleeping  Cars  on  night  trains. 


jr.  MUMRAT  KAT, 

Manager. 


B.  1>.  MeLEOJD, 

Supt. 


if' 


ffim 


Steamers  to  Prince  Edward  Island, 

ST.  LAWRENCE,      PRINCESS  OF  WALES, 

OAPT.  IVANS,  m-  OArr.  OAMBMON, 

Make  DaUy  Trip»  between 

SUMMERSIDE,  F.  E.  I., 

And 

POINT   DU   CHENE,    NEW   BRUNSWICK, 

Oonneetlng  at  both  places  with  OoTenunent  RaUwayi; 

At  the  former  for   Charlotteto-wn  and 

THE  LATTER  FOR  ST,  JOHN 

And  all  plaicee  In  Canada  and  the  United  States. 

Pasaeniten  leare  St  John  at  8  a.  u.  and  arriTe  at  Charlottel^own  at  8  P.  M.  Leave 
Oharlottetown  at  6.30  A.  M.  and  arrlTe  at  St.  John  at  7.80  ?.  u. 

Also 
Leave  Charloltetown  for  Plctou  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  ThnTsday,  and  Saturday, 
eonneeting  there  with  Railway  to  Halifiix  or  Cape  Breton ;  returcing  ftom  Pictou  on 
antral  of  Morning  Train  from  Halifox  on  Monday,  Wednesday,  Friday,  and  Saturday. 

For  ftariher  information  apply  to 

F.  W.  HALES, 

Seeretarjf  P.  E.  I,  SUam  Navigation  Co» 
Obablottbtowh. 

SIXTH  THOUSAND  NOW  READY. 

TH£  COBBESPOMDEMCE  OF  THOMAS  OARI.TLE  AND  BAIf  H 

WALDO  EMERSON:   1834  TO  187S. 

With  fine  portraits'of  Garlyle  and  Emerson,  etched  for  this  work.  Edited  by  Chaklm 
BuoT  NosTON.  2  vols.  12mo,  silt  top,  rough  edges,  $4.00;  half  calf,  98.00;  half 
morocco,  gilt  top,  uncut  edges,  $800. 

The  International  Review:  "It  may  woll  be  doubted  whether  the  Anglo-Saxon 
world  will  have  submitted  to  it  for  many  a  year  to  come  such  a  literary  treasure  as  is 
here  presented.'' 

The  Pall  Mall  Oaxette :  **  It  is  pleasant  to  hare  this  chapter  added  to  the  record  of 
tenons  literanr  fHendships." 

The  Dial:  "  We  shall  have  no  passages  firom  the  lives  of  Carlyle  and  Emerson  more 
prsolous." 

St.  Jameses  Budget:  '*A  more  interesting  and  suggestive  collection  of  letters  has  not 
been  |riven  to  the  world  since  the  appearance  of  the  correspondence  of  Goethe  and 
Sehiller." 

UppineotVs  Magazine:  "  Their  interest  is  incontestible  and  unbroken." 

The  Athenenm  (London) :  "  These  two  volumes  shed  a  beautiful  light  upon  a  fi^nd- 
ahip  as  warm  as  it  was  singular.  .  .  .  They  abound  in  passages  of  rare  beauty." 

The  Atlantic  Monthly :  **  The  memory  of  a  flue  friendship  has  been  added  to  the  spir- 
itual inheritance  of  the  world." 

GcoRai  WauAM  Ccbtis,  in  Harper's  Mageuine :  "  None  can  read  the  record  without 
receiving  a  blessing  from  its  refinement  and  invigoration." 

Ttie  Independent :  "  The  correspondence  Is  so  beautifhl  in  itself  and  so  rich  in  all  ways 
as  to  relieve  us  even  fh>m  the  temptation  to  say  that  there  is  no  other  like  it  in  the 
world." 

The  Westminster  Review :  "  A  beautifhl  supplement  and  key  to  the  lives  and  writ- 
inn  of  tb'-t  authors  ;  a  book  not  to  be  skimmed,  but  read  again  and  again." 

The  Bruish  Quarterli/  Review :  "A  very  attractive  book.  We  trust  it  will  be  widely 
tmd,  as  it  deserves  to  be.**  ^ 

JAME8  R.  OSGOOD  A  CO.,   BOSTON. 


1 


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bES, 


ICK. 
and 

I.    LMte 


Batnrday, 
Pictoaon 
Baiurdaj. 


nation  Co* 

RALPH 

Br  Chaklbs 
8.00;  half 

glo^azon 
isureasis 

record  of 

rMn  more 

n  has  not. 
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In  all  ways 
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Ibe  widely 


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I 


A  CBfiAP  AND  DSLIGHTFUL 

SX7MMEB  TRIP. 


Boston,  Halifax,  and  Prince  Edward  Island 

Steamship  Line. 

Boston  to  Charlottetown,  P.  E.  I., 

8TOPPINO  AT 

Halifax,  Port  Hawkesbury,  C.  B.,  &  Pictou,  N.  S. 

The  fkToiite  Margoins  Steftmshlp* 

CARROLL  (1,400 tons)  and  WORCESTER  (1,400  ton*) 

Oapt.  QKORQK  H.  BROWN,     Oapt.  J.  W.  BLANKINSHIP, 

Iieave 

Nickersoii  s  Wharf,  Congress  St.,  Boston, 

For  the  above  Porto, 

EV£BY  SATUEDAY,  AT  12  OmOOK. 

These  steamers  connect  with  the  NOVA  SCOTIA  railways  and  coa8t>Unfla  at 
HaUfaz  and  Picton,  giving  opportnuitles  tcvisit  the  chief  attractions  of  the  Maritime 
IProvincee.  At  Port  Hawkesbury  they  connect  with  stages  for  all  parts  of  the  Island  of 
CAPE  BRETON,  and  for  the  renowned  and  beautiful  BRAS  D'OR  LAKES. 
From  Charlottetown  the  tourist  can  visit  any  part  of  Prlnoe  Edward  Ialand»  by 
the  trains  of  the  new  Oovemment  Railway. 

The  Steamships  of  this  Line  have 

UNSURPASSED   ACCOMMODATIONS 

FOR    PASSENGERS. 

For  tickets  and  farther  information,  i4>piy  to 
WM.  H.  RING,  or      A.  DeW.  SAMPSON, 


Vlckerson*e  Wharf,  Congress  St. 


HOI  Washinirton  St. 


LEVE  &  ALDEN 


■  ^B^  i 


-A.l^ER.IO-A.N    TOURS 


<  ^mm  » 


Tonrift  tickets  for  individual  travellen  issoed  to  all 

SUMMER  AND  WINTER  RESORTS 

In  America,  embracing  the 

MAKITIME  PROVINCES, 

SAGUENAY  RIVER, 
QUEBEC, 
«  MONTREAL, 

WHITE  MOUNTAINS, 

RANQELEY  LAKES, 
MOUITT  DESERT, 

THOUSAND  ISLANDS, 
NIAO-ARA  FALLS,  &c.,  &o., 

By  any  known  route  and  at 

Reductions  from  Ordinary  Rates- 
Messrs.  Lbyb  &  Aldek  are  the  General  Agents  for  many  first-class 
lines,  and  in  addition  issue  their  own  tickets  over  a  large  number  of 
railway  and  steamship  routes,  embracing  the  leading  resorts  and 
picturesque  channels  of  travel  which  tourists  wish  to  visit. 

The  American  Tourist  Gazette,  a  hanusome  illustrated  quarto 
monthly,  may  be  had  upon  receipt  of  postage,  by  application  in  per- 
son, or  by  mail,  at  any  of  the  Lbte  ^  Alden  offices. 

Messrs.  Lbyb  &  Alden  are  also  the  General  Passenger  Agents 
'  of  the 

ALLAN  LINE  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

CHIEF  OFFICES: 

iWB  Office:  5  UNION  SQUARE,  S  ' 

16  9TATE  STREET,  BOSTON, 


I. 


B. 


rs 


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DS, 


Les. 

t-class 
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BOOJCS  OF  TRAVBiu. 


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A   WONDERFUL   LITERARY  8UCO£9S.         ' 

THROUGH    ONE    ADMINISTRATION. 

By  Mrs.  F.  H.  Burnbtt.     i  vol.,  lamo.    $i.jl». 
A  peculiAriy  powerful  and  interestiQiK  story  of  modern  life  aiid  ;^Ktical  in- 
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iret 


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*'Pcnneated  by  a  delightful  combination  of  the  romantte  and  realistic 
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A   MODERN    INSTANCE. 

By  W.  D.  HoWBLLS.    51A pages.,  $1.50. 

"  Worthy  of  a  place  beside  some  of  the  nnest  of  George  Eliot's  creations." 
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A    REVEREND    IDOL. 

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JAMES  R*  OSOOOD  &  CO.,  Boston. 


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sou  TBUTOOOXX. 

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MEMORIAL  HISTORY  OF  BOSTON, 
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Correspondence  of  Carlyle  and 
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Conway's  Emerson  at  Home  and 
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Poole's  Index  to  Periodical  Liter- 
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